MOSCOW

SEPTEMBER 2011 www.passportmagazine.ru

What Makes Russians happy? Moscow’s The Moscow Metro Best Restaurants

Pushkin Cafe Nedalny Vostok Ragout Tinatin

Osteria Montirolli Chicago KaiPrime Kinki La Maree Varvari Barashka Turandot

Cantinetta Antinori

September_covers.indd 1 23.08.2011 13:57:29 September_covers.indd 2 23.08.2011 13:51:03 Contents 4. Previews Aline Kalinina

8. Education Briefing Ross Hunter, Anna Campbell-Colquhoun

4 10. A Day Out The Bruce Estate, Ian Mitchell

12. Travel Malta, Martine Self Reykjavik Remembered, Luc Jones

18. Finance 12 Taking Care of Money, Peter Hainsworth

20. The Way It Is What Makes Russian Happy, Frank Ebbecke Teddy Boys, Richard Hume

24. Out & About The Kremlin Cossacks, Ian Mitchell 24 26. Moscow Guide The Metro, Jay Morley

30. Real Estate Interview with Kaido Kaarma, Vladimir Kozlov Real Estate News 30 34. Wine & Dining The Best of Moscow’s Restaurants Listings

42. Family Pages Puzzle Page, compiled by Ross Hunter Clarice and the Hostage Ostrich, text by Ross Hunter, il- lustrations by Catherine Hunter 34 46. View From The Cliffs Anth Ginn

47. Book Review Garkhov’s Diary by Stephan Dewar, Ian Mitchell

42 48. Distribution List

September 2011 

September_covers.indd 2 23.08.2011 13:51:03 Letter from the Publisher

Welcome back! We Americans hope that Russia gets a functioning democracy soon, and when it does, tell us what it’s like! My British editor says something similar about the UK, after seeing the way that the August rioters there have been handed out inordinately severe sentences by the courts. It is difficult for me to accept how quickly things have changed. No longer are we able to preach to the world and be taken seriously when all we can do to stay afloat is print money. I have even started to worry about good old America, my country. I admit that I find myself thinking that Russia, despite being the most goddam awful place to work, isn’t so bad after all. I mean at least there is work, and people still have money in their pockets to spend. Let’s hope that by Christmas we are all still in one piece, and the financial tsunami which is the second wave of the crisis doesn’t hit Russia too hard. The disarray in our own countries does mean that Russia can continue to destroy democracy here, and only Gorbachev cares. Does it matter to you? We present a variety of articles, from “What Makes Russians happy” by Frank Ebbecke, written for seasoned ex-pats, to an introductory article on the Moscow Metro, for new arrivals. Whatever your level John Ortega of exposure to Russian culture, I hope that PASSPORT has something for you. Owner and Publisher You can afford it! It is Cuba! It is Libre! On 21st of July the Cuba Libre bar on Kuznetsky Most officially opened. Guests at the opening party found themselves at a carnival in the spirit of free Cuba. But to get onto the island, visitors had to pass a border post where especially suspicious guests were searched by girl-frontier guards. Having made it to the bar, visitors had already forgotten their problems. There was a Latin-American atmosphere with the mixed drink Cuba Libre, bachata music and a salsa performed by the group Cubamania. This was a night to remember! M. Chistye Prudy; 17 Ulitsa Pokrovka, 624-07-18, M. Kuznetsky most; 4 Kuznetsky most, 692-02-14 www.cubalibrebar.ru Starbucks Help Children Dear friends! We have wonderful news for you! On the 20th and 27th of August at 13:00 in the Starbucks at Arbat 19/2, we are holding an informal meeting to tell people about our Nastavniki program (www.nastavniki.org); about how each of you can help change children’s lives for the better! Please come round for a cup of Starbucks coffee or a cold cocktail. Come all at 13:00 at the address Arbat 19/2 (Starbucks coffee). We are looking forward to seeing you all! Volvo Fashion Week Moscow will take place in Gostiny Dvor on October 26-31, 2011. Spring/Summer 2012 collections will be show business taking part; collections created shown on the walk ways of Gostiny Dvor by lead- in association with celebrities; and fashion ex- ing Russian designers, including Alena Akhmad- hibitions and installations arranged by part- ullina, Cyrille Gassiline, Sergey Sysoev, Victoria ners of Volvo Fashion Week Moscow. Cafes, Andreyanova, Natasha Drigant, Ilya Shiyan, An- bars and lounges will be open on the territory tonina Shapovalova, Olga Deffi, Alina Assi, Erica of Gostiny Dvor for guests of Volvo Fashion Zaionts, and many others. Each year, Volvo Fash- Week Moscow. You are welcome! ion Week On the 19th of August, 2011 Valeria Astak- Many pleasant surprises and society events hova and Sergey Savinets got married. The are in store for regular guests and enthusiasts editors of PASSPORT magazine sincerely con- of the project: the Opening Party that tradition- gratulate the newlyweds and wish them a long ally brings together all socialites of the Russian married life! As they say in accordance with capital city in the most popular night clubs and Russian tradition —Gorko!!! restaurants; bright shows with stars of Russian Owner and Publisher Designer Book and Whisky Editor John Ortega, +7 (985) 784-2834 Julia Nozdracheva Ian Mitchell [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Editor Webmaster Nightlife editor John Harrison Alexey Timokhin Miguel Francis [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Sales Manager Accounting and Legal Services Contributors Valeria Astakhova ООО Юридическая Компания Charles Borden, Alevtina Kalinina, Ross Hunter, [email protected] “Правовые Инновации”, Ian Mitchell, Martine Self, Luc Jones, Frank Ebbecke, Arts Editor 111024, г. Москва, пр-д завода “Серп и Молот”, д.5, стр.1, Richard Hume, Jay Morely, Vladimir Kozlov, Anth Ginn, Alevtina Kalinina (495)223-10-62, Catherine Hunter [email protected] Гл бухгалтер. Якубович Любовь Александровна

Editorial Address: Published by OOO Passport Magazine. All rights reserved. Passport occasionally uses material we believe has been 42 Volgogradsky Prospekt, Bldg. 23 This publication is registered by the Press Ministry No. placed in the public domain. Sometimes it is not possible Office 013, 1st floor 77-25758. 14.09.2006 to identify and contact the copyright owner. If you claim 109316 Moscow, Russia Printed by BlitzPrint. Moscow representative office: ownership of something we have published, we will be 127051, Moscow, Petrovsky Boulevard, Dom 10. pleased to make a proper acknowledgment. Tel. +7 (495) 640-0508 Fax +7 (495) 620-0888 www.passportmagazine.ru

 September 2011

Previews Paul Poiret: King of Fashion Aline Kalinina first came to Russia exactly 100 years This autumn the Kremlin Museums ago—in 1911. present a show dedicated to a represen- The exhibition comprises exhibits tative of one of the most refined epochs from four museums: the Musée Galliera in arts and fashion: Paul Poiret, King (Paris Fashion Museum), which has sup- of Fashion. This is a diverse exhibition plied dresses, illustrations from Gazette encompassing dresses, accessories, de- du Bon Ton (a Paris-based magazine), signs and perfumes created by Poiret le accessories, shoes and hats; dresses Magnifique. Poiret with his exotic orien- from the Victoria and Albert Museum tal tendencies, love and eye for colour, (London). Paul Poiret collaborated in- admiration for theatre and ability to tensively with the Victoria & Albert mu- express it all in a piece of clothing, was seum when he studied the collection of a pioneer in many spheres: he created Indian turbans for his own fashion col- designer’s perfumes, mixed fashion lections. Poiret’s perfume line is gener- with interior design and was thus the ously contributed by the International first to promote the concept of a “total Museum of Perfume in Grasse. And lifestyle” characteristic of the Art Nou- the State Hermitage Museum presents veau epoch. their collection of Paul Poiret’s evening Before the opening of the exhibition, gowns. PASSPORT Magazine’s Aline Kalinina speaks to the curator of the exhibition, Poiret often mentioned that Sergei Svetlana Amelekhina, keeper and cu- Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes influenced him rator of the fabrics department at the a lot. What other sources of influence and Kremlin Museums. inspiration can we find in his creations? Well, Léon Bakst had some influence Svetlana, how did the idea to make a on him, though in his memoirs Poiret Paul Poiret show in the Kremlin Museums usually dismisses this. Paris, being the emerge? Paul Poiret was originally a fashion designer, he made clothes, right? First of all, at the beginning of the 20th century, Paul Poiret was acclaimed not only as a successful fashion designer but equally as a talented artist. For the Rus- sian audience he was a genuine star with Alexandre Benois naming him in one of his articles as a brilliant artist. Paul Poiret himself often said that he was a long way from being a tailor, and in the world of fashion and art he positioned himself as an artist and had an absolute right to do so. Secondly, in 2008, at the Moscow Kremlin Museums there was already an exhibition entitled: “Two Centuries of British Fashion” from the Victoria and Al- bert Museum’s collection. It was a huge success so we decided to make other exhibitions and tell our audience about more couturiers. This is how the idea of Poiret show appeared. Besides, Poiret

 September 2011 Previews theatre capital of the world at that time taught her to pose for photographers could not but affect Paul Poiret. Poiret’s and certainly wear his fashion. In our ex- vision for fashion was expressed through hibition we present photographs taken his special silhouettes: “lampshade” during the couple’s visit to America in tunic or his “harem trousers”, or panta- 1913. You can see what an icon of fash- loons—his leanings towards the Orient. ion Denise was then already, how sim- Also his high-waisted Directoire Revival plistic and modern the Poiret creations silhouette was of the most avant-garde look now. Vogue commented on every innovations in the fashion of his epoch. fancy accessory Madame Poiret wore. Those designs by the way appeared in Her style was copied immediately. two beautifully made and coloured po- choir editions—in Paul Iribe’s Les Robes In the 1910s, Poiret started his own de Paul Poiret (1908) and George Lep- perfume line, can you tell us something ape’s Les Choses de Paul Poiret (1911). about that? The same year—1911—Poiret made his It was in 1911, when Poiret was almost first international tour when he visited at the peak of his career. He expanded Russia and other countries. his clothes business to include perfume, He stayed in Moscow and Saint-Pe- textile and interior design. The perfume tersburg. His fashion shows were a huge company was named after his elder success in both cities, attracting the lo- daughter, Rosine. And the interior Ate- cal nobility and patrons of arts, and in- lier was named after his second – Mar- spiring designers such as Erté (Romain tine. When Poiret was in Vienna, he had de Tirtoff - a Russian born artist) for already become acquainted with the example who later followed Poiret to principle of “total work of art” by art- Paris. Erté spent one year there studying ists from the Wiener Werkstätte, but it is painting and fashion design and when through his own approach which com- he showed his sketches to Poiret, he bined fashion, perfume and interior was immediately invited to his Maison. design that he elaborated this concept Poiret made the young man acquainted of “total lifestyle.” Directed by Poiret at with the publisher of Gazette du Bon the Martine Atelier theatre were created Ton, and Erté’s later successful career is designs for book covers, delicate per- well-known in France and in Hollywood fume flacons or wall papers, and he at- as the author of fine illustrations for the tracted well known though later artists Vogue magazine and others. and craftsmen such as Paul Iribe, Raoul In his later memoirs Poiret remem- Dufy, Georges Lepape. bered Moscow vividly, inspired by what tors wearing clothes in those films de- he saw there, he created several collec- signed by Poiret. How is the exhibition arranged? tions named Samovar and Petrushka... The exhibition is logically and spatial- In 1913, when he came to the US, his Please tell us some more about Poiret’s ly divided into two sections: in the One- wife and muse Denise was wearing one models and his principal Muse – his wife Pillar Chamber we tell the Paul Poiret of Poiret’s garments named Moscovite. Denise. story before and during WWI. The sec- Poiret named all of his creations. He cre- The principal muse and model for ond section presented in the Assump- ated fashion for the leading actresses of Poiret was his wife Denise. For Poiret this tion Belfry illustrates Poiret’s phoenix his epoch such as Sarah Bernardt or Ga- slender woman was the embodiment of revival. P brielle Réjane. In our exhibition we make the modern woman. He met her when a special section for Poiret and Cinema she was about nineteen. To his friends September 7-January 15 presenting film images we found in the he said that he saw a huge potential in Kremlin Museums Cinématèque Française in Paris with ac- this girl. He taught her fashion, but also Paul Poiret. King of Fashion

September 2011  Previews New Look—New Glass

A biennale of art in glass is a common fledged plastic material that provided glass create a new sensation of space— thing in many countries. Along with the opportunity to create something transparent but still possessing form London and Venice, the Museum of more than just decorative works. Exper- and volume. Every one of these 12 art- Modern Art in Moscow has initiated an iments opened up new spatial and figu- ists works in his or her own way, first exhibition that will hopefully grow into rative potential. These artists’ work fo- stepping aside from traditional tem- a larger-scale project. For the moment cused on exploring possibilities and plates, then using habitual technics. P the project presents the works of 12 art- limitations of glass as an artistic materi- ists from Moscow from the New Glass al. Modern glass, if using new forms, is association (Novoe Steklo in Russian), capable (equally with art and sculpture) who continue the artistic process that of expressing the artist’s individuality, Until September 16, 10:00-19:00 began in the 1960s, when utilitarian his ideas, the thoughts of his time. Mir- every day except Mondays decorative functions of glass started to rors, lenses and engravings widen artis- Moscow Museum of Modern Art, become defunct. Glass became a fully- tic possibilities. Plastic works made of 25, Petrovka Street Conservatoire re-opens

The Grand Hall of the Moscow Conser- Savoie in 1984. Since then its musical di- an oboist, first of all with the Orchestra vatoire opens after a major renovation rectors have been Patrice Fontanarosa, National de Lyon, then with the Luxem- that has been completed in a very limited Tibor Varga, Mark Foster and Graziella bourg Philharmonic. On the programme period of time. The rest of the Conserva- Contratto, under whose the orchestra has in Moscow are Mozart’s Flute Concerto toire complex will be under restoration become one of the most dynamic in No. 1 and Haydn’s Symphony No. 83. P until 2016. But this month the central France. Nicolas Chalvin took over as musi- place for classical music fans opens with a cal director in September 2009. Nicholas September 14 star-studded cast of guest performances, was previously a chamber and orchestral 19:00, 13, Bolshaya Nikitskaya street one of which will be given by the Orches- musician before deciding to devote him- Season opening at the Consevatoire tre Des Pays de Savoie conducted by self entirely to conducting. After studying Soloists: José- Daniel Castellon, Nicolas Chalvin. This Orchestra was at the Conservatoire (CNSM) in Lyon, flute (France) founded by the Assemblée des Pays de Nicolas Chalvin embarked on a career as Philippe Berrod, clarinet (France)

 September 2011 Previews Parisian School From 1900 to the middle of the cen- tury, Paris with its inspiring climate was an extremely attractive location to which artists of different nationalities gravitated from different countries. The Parisian School or the School of Paris is rather a conventional name to describe that group of French and non-French artists who lived and worked in this city. The group was initially concentrated in Montmartre, but subsequently moved to Montparnasse in the 1910s. Portrai- ture, landscapes and still lifes were the

main subjects the artists focused on, September 20-November 20 applying a diversity of techniques and Private Collections Section, Pushkin style—the dynamic colours of Fauvism, Museum of Fine Art the geometric methods of Cubism, the 14, Volkhonka street modernist qualities of Expressionism, Open: 10:00-19.00, except Monday and the transcendent worlds of Sym- bolism. Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) be- came one of the leaders of this move- ment when he moved to France in 1904. His collaboration with the Frenchman Georges Braque (1882-1963) fostered the development of Cubism. It was af- ter Braque’s exhibition in 1908 that the term Cubism was humorously coined by one journalist. Giorgio de Chirico (1888-1978), anoth- er influential member of the movement also resided in Paris and is considered a precursor to realism among the Surreal- ists. Amedeo Modigliani (1884-1920) and Constantin Brancusi (1876-1957) were other artists within the School who exchanged styles and ideas about art. The current exhibition at the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts presents works by more than fifty painters, displaying col- lections from Russian private collections along with those from the George Pom- pidou Centre. P

September 2011  Education Briefing

1 Oct University of Westminster, London at the British Council 1-2 1200-1800 Education UK Fair, at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel 4 1800 University of Exeter open evening, Complied by Ross Hunter, Headmaster, at the British Council The English International School 5 1800 Studying in London (King’s College, UCL, LSE), at the British Council PASSPORT’s sixth Education Briefing comes as the time ar- 19 Nov Private Schools & Kindergartens Fair, rives for 2012 applications. You should have done most of the at the Swiss Hotel work by now, and only have the final polishing to do. If you have just decided to apply for 2012, it can be done, but you Scholarships and financial help for need to move quickly, and get good help. The clock is now international students ticking fast. See PASSPORT’s monthly briefings from April By Rebecca Blake, International Officer, Kingston University onwards for expert advice. July and August focused on help London [email protected] with UCAS. This month’s spotlight is on scholarships and fi- The majority of international students studying in the UK nancial aid. Anna’s article is also extremely useful for UCAS fund their studies through their families or private finance. and USA applications We welcome feedback and especially Alternative sources of funding can be found though the lo- articles by experts. Contact anyone in these pages for help. cal Ministry of Education, UK government, or individual uni- [email protected] versities. One of the most well known UK government scholarship Calendar of Events – early Autumn schemes is the Chevening programme that funds postgraduate 10 Sept 1200-1700 Undergraduate Education Fair, and research scholarships in certain subject fields: www.cheve- at Radisson Slavyanskaya Hotel ning.com/about/faqs. Many UK universities offer partial scholar- 16-17 European Education Fair in Novosibirsk ships and bursaries for international students on a competitive 19-23 Social Media Week basis. The British Council holds information about many sources (Educational Hub), at Strelka and the British Council of funding in the UK including their scholarships database: www. 26 1800 University of Southampton at The British Council educationuk.org/scholarships. Other sources of funding may 29 British Education Fair in St Petersburg be found through organisations such as the United Nations or European Commission and the British Council should be able to provide information about schemes available.

What makes a good scholarship application? By Anna Campbell-Colquhoun, International Officer, Uni- versity of Westminster [email protected] If you’re applying for a scholarship you will be in competition with some of the strongest students in the world. Spend suffi- cient time on your application so present yourself at your best. Apply only for those scholarships for which you are eligible. Unless you are applying for a particular scholarship, simply and honestly tell the scholarship provider what level of financial aid you need and they will fit the scholarship to you. Make copies of the application form so that you can create a working draft: you will need several efforts to get it right. The scholarship application form introduces you to the judges. You need to make that introduction as crisp and busi- ness-like as possible. The application form must be word processed. Don’t use fancy scripts; stick with standard busi- ness fonts. Legibility and neatness are extremely important. Your application may be eliminated if it cannot be easily read. Check, check and re-check for typos. Enlist help: it is very hard to proof-read your own material. Inevitably, your mind’s eye reads what you thought you wrote, not what actually made it onto the page. A fresh reader will catch the words that you missed and find the spelling errors. Place the requested documents in the package in the order that they are requested. This consistency makes it easier for evaluators to locate information. It’s also simpler for you to check the documents against the list of requirements. Do not send documents that have not been requested. Make a copy of the full application. It is important to have a complete record of everything you send in exactly the form it

10 September 2011 Education Briefing was received. Use an envelope that will hold your application wants to know three things: why is it important to you, why it without folding it: the application will look much better with- is right for you and why you are right for it. Your application out creases. Send the application “return receipt requested” or should be built around this message. P use a courier service that allows you to track the package’s path and verify who signed for it. You need proof that the applica- tion was received by the university. The scholarship application is a paper model of you. Make English Standards sure your application is professional and compelling. This is an Bachelors’ Degrees may ask for opportunity for you to speak about yourself. It should show IELTS of 6, TOEFL or 6.5, TOEFL , and 7.0 for the most com- that you have ideas and opinions, are able to think logically, petitive, demanding courses. and can express yourself clearly, with economy and elegance. Master’s degrees for an MBA, for example, may require: Clear writing comes from clear thinking. First and most impor- Or 6.0 IELTS/ 550/79 TOEFL (or equivalent) plus a pre-session- tant, decide what you want to say. Consider carefully what you al English course. wish to impress upon the reader. Make sure that you have an- swered the question set, many write what they want to say, not Useful information what the awarding committee wants to hear. Do not write in a UCAS: The umbrella for all UK undergraduate courses. One cute, coy, or gimmicky style. Do show that you have thought application form for 5 choices. www.ucas.com deeply and broadly about what you have learned in your aca- Brian Heap: Author of (UK) University Degree Course Offers demic career, what you hope to learn next and how this will – Trotman Press ISBN: 978 1 84455 246 7 help the development of your country upon your return. British Council: Nikoloyamskaya 1, Moscow, 495 287 1839, When you have written a first draft, start the work of refin- www.educationuk.ru [email protected] ing, simplifying, and polishing. Do you say exactly what you Matriculation: the start of a course, usually a 3 or 4 year un- mean? Is any section, sentence, or word superfluous, ambigu- dergraduate degree programme ous, or awkward? Are your verbs strong and active? Are you BA, BSc, BEd, BEng: Bachelor of arts, Sciences, Education, En- sure that each accomplishment and interest you mention gineering ... qualification from a first degree (3-4 years) supports one of your main ideas? Do not apologize. Do not MA, MSc, MPhil: higher degree, only possible after a BA misrepresent yourself. Correctness and style are vital. Neat- (etc), taught or by research, usually 1-2 years ness counts. Check and check again your spelling and gram- MBA: Master of Business Administration. The standard post- mar. Ask several individuals whose judgment you respect to graduate qualification for aspiring executives read and criticise a draft of your essay. Remember, in any ap- PhD: Doctor of Philosophy top level research based qualifi- plication (for a job, grant, graduate school, etc.) the reader cation, in any subject, usually 3-5 years after a BA.

September 2011 11 A Day Out

Part 4: High Summer at the Bruce Estate

Text and photos by Ian Mitchell ment or the pot-holed dirt shoulder, “rally”, should email me (ian@ianmitch- as sometimes happens on other roads. ellonline.co.uk). It might be fun. On a beautiful Sunday morning in Au- The surface is good, and it is properly A word about those Lada drivers. I gust, I wheeled the bike out of the en- drained so that after rain you do not noted in the first article in this series that, trance to our pannelny dom in Khimki at have to navigate pond-sized pud- in general, in Moscow a lower level of at- about 7.30, when all was quiet and cool, dles which, elsewhere, I worry about tention is paid to other road users than but already bright. I was on the MKAD as they can conceal pot-holes. Fur- in Britain. I should qualify this. The fact within ten minutes, heading east. I cycled thermore, there are no traffic lights, is that most Russian drivers are courte- forty kilometres round to the Chaussee wayward pedestrians, barking dogs, ous to cyclists, but there are two types of Entusiastov exit, then headed slightly broken glass or lunatic Lada drivers road-user you need to watch out for. north of east towards Losino-Petrovsky. darting out of side-roads as if they had The first are the Lada drivers, in which I am constantly assailed by people important meetings to get to. category I also include the drivers of el- who tell me that they would never True, the traffic moves fast, but so it derly Russian cars, like Volgas, as well as cycle on the MKAD. But in fact it is does elsewhere. I like the MKAD and, just of busses, marshrutki and, surprisingly, one of the best routes in Moscow. It is for the hell of it, plan to do a full circuit ambulances, though not, equally surpris- the only road where you have a whole one Sunday in the autumn, when the ingly, police vehicles. In my experience, lane to yourself (usually), so the trucks weather is cooler. Anyone who wishes the police usually give cyclists a courte- do not crowd you towards the pave- to join me for a non-competitive cycle ously wide berth. A minority—I should

12 September 2011 A Day Out

restlessly energetic and curious as many of his illustrious ancestors—he claimed a family tree going back to Robert the Bruce, King of Scotland and hero of the battle of Bannockburn in 1314. At Glinka, Jacob researched what we would today call the occult arts. In this he was following Isaac Newton, who de- voted more of his life to alchemy than to physics. Bruce tried to derive what he called “the formula of the soul”, which was given in a booklet which I bought from a kiosk at the Estate. It is Greek to me, but I reproduce it here in the hope that PASSPORT’s resident mathemati- stress that—of these people drive as if cian, Ross Hunter (M.A. Cantab.), can un- cyclists are trespassing on the road. lock the secret. The other problem category is the Bruce was known in Moscow as “the driver of a black-windowed Lexus or Scottish magus”. It was discovered long LandCruiser who is very conscious of after his death that he had built a net- your presence on the road. They do not work of secret tunnels connecting the view the road as territory that should be various buildings on his Estate so that he forbidden to cyclists, Soviet-style, but could move equipment and secret ma- as place for free competition where the terials away from prying eyes—at least market favours weight and aggression, that is what their purpose is thought by capitalist-style. researchers to have been, but nobody But don’t let that discourage you. The knows for sure. He was a mysterious vast majority of drivers are polite and character, and I wanted to see the small make every allowance for the presence museum which both Kathleen Berton of cyclists. And the situation overall is Morrell in her book, Discovering Moscow’s getting better, not worse. In the five Countryside and several internet sites years I have been riding the roads of the said was housed in Bruce’s old labora- city, I have noticed a definite improve- tory at Glinka. ment in the level of courtesy. This being Russia, I discovered after cy- Beyond the behaviour of some driv- cling 65 kms there that the contents of ers, the other big danger for cyclists met Peter, and became a close friend. In the museum had recently been moved in Russia is the condition of the roads. 1697 he travelled with the young Tsar to to Moscow. There was nothing to see, Here, as elsewhere in Russia, my motto England where, amongst other things, though I was, of course, welcome to wan- is “expect the unexpected”. Apart from he introduced him to Sir Isaac Newton. der round the grounds of the sanatorium the obvious problems of holes and Bruce is said to have been one of the which is now there. It appears to be used bumps etc., there is the fact that you of- best-educated men in Russia. He had a sci- mainly by Lada drivers, who seemed per- ten have to take rapid avoiding action entific bent, founding the first astronomi- fectly pleasant people when out of their if you are not to crash into a pot-hole cal observatory in the country, on top of cars. Expect the unexpected. and buckle a wheel or ride through a the Sukharevsky Tower. His book collec- I spent a leisurely afternoon explor- scatter of broken glass and puncture a tion later became an important part of the ing the Estate, during the course of tyre. Sudden manoeuvres annoy some Russian Academy of Science library. which I discovered, totally by accident, Lada-drivers, so the better the road the Bruce was also a talented military the most astonishing church I believe it pleasanter the cycling, which is another engineer, and served with distinction is possible to find anywhere. It was a reason why I favour the MKAD. in many of Peter’s wars. He command- vast, baroque building in a state of ru- After turning off at Chaussee Entu- ed the artillery at the crucial battle of ination such as one might have expect- siastov, I had about 25 kms to go, first Poltava, when Sweden’s challenge to ed to see five years after the London through grim Moscow semi-suburbia, Russia’s Baltic expansion was decisively Blitz (see photo opposite). Then I heard and then through beautiful wheat fields crushed. In 1721 Peter made him one of beautiful singing coming from some- and woods before I reached the little vil- the first Counts of his newly-proclaimed where underneath the rubble. I investi- lage where Jacob (James) Bruce, one of Empire. gated and saw people filing into a dec- Peter the Great’s most important confrères, Six years later, Bruce bought the Glin- orated chamber where a service was built an estate, called Glinka, in the 1720s. ka estate where he built a modestly- being held in what was called the Ca- Some of the Bruces of Airth (in Stir- sized but elegant mansion of his own thedral of the Apostle and Evangelist lingshire) came to Russia as mercenary design (see picture opposite above). A Ioann Bogoslov (see above). Once soldiers in the time of Peter’s father, Tsar normal man would have settled down again, in Russia: expect the unexpect- Alexis. Jacob was born in the Nemetska- to enjoy the fruits of a productive and ed. That’s the joy of the place, except ya Sloboda in Moscow in 1669. There he interesting life-time. But Bruce was as on the MKAD. P

September 2011 13 Travel Mmm…

Malta - magical, marvellous,

magnificent!

Martine Self venturers from around the Med, over millennia, and all have left Take a few dollops of Sicilian passion and Roman Catholic their stamp. The British Empire ruled Malta for 150 years and has religion, mix with a soupcon of French civil code, add a large left behind a love of all things British, not least the English lan- dash of Phoenician (now Lebanese) language, a few table- guage, as well as red telephone boxes, post boxes, and a love spoons of North African architecture, a smattering of Greek of tea and bingo. The Maltese language which sounds Arabic, is maritime skills and a cup or two of British restraint and order, the national language, while Italian is also widely spoken. and you have Malta and the Maltese, a unique melting pot They say good things come in small packages, and Malta, seasoned with an unforgettable charm and a well-deserved which joined the EU in 2004, has plenty packed into its 300 reputation for bravery and heroism. sq km (one-third the size of Moscow). About 30km long and Just four hours flying time from Moscow on Air Malta, lies 15km wide, Malta (population 370,000) has two little sister is- 7000 years of history with plenty to sample over a week‘s holi- lands: Gozo (pop 30,000), and tiny Comino (pop 8). In Malta, day. Poised strategically between Sicily and North Africa at the everything is nearby: the airport is nearby; the sea is nearby; crossroads of civilisations, it has attracted the attention of ad- and so are some spectacular architectural sites.

14 September 2011 Travel

For those who appreciate archaeological history, a trip to “a city of palaces built by gentlemen for gentlemen” (referring Malta can be a rich journey back in time. Here you will find to the Knights) , he also said that Valetta equals, in its noble ar- truly ancient architecture, and in several cases, the oldest chitecture, if it does not excel, any city in Europe. I think I fell in surviving structures in the world, predating the pyramids love with Valletta as our car drove up to its gates on the night and Stonehenge by at least 1000 years (visit www.heritage- of our arrival and I was spellbound by the seductive honey- malta.org). coloured glow of the illuminated city walls. Once inside the In medieval times, Malta was home to the Crusaders, the limestone walls, lighting reveals a city of narrow streets with Knights of St John, who, being at the forefront of the battles great romantic atmosphere. between Muslims and Christians, valiantly withstood a siege Baroque churches and palaces, separated by grand squares, by the Byzantine forces of Suleiman the Magnificent in 1565, are all neatly enclosed in a massive fortified citadel reinforced and turned the tide in Christianity’s favour. Even Russia played by impenetrable bastions. Valetta, which has the distinction a small part in Maltese history when Emperor Paul I became of being Europe’s first planned city, is now a World Heritage the Grand Master of the Knights of St John between 1798 and site and set to be the European city of culture in 2018. To me, 1801 when protecting the Knights after they were expelled it felt like being in an open-air museum or a movie set—I ex- from Malta after Napoleon’s brief invasion. pected to find a knight come clattering round the corner on By virtue of its strategic position and excellent natural har- his white steed, in full armour and on some quest to repel in- bour, the island took centre stage again, when, during World vaders. Occasionally, a cacophony of church bells peals down War II, it served as an important British naval base and under- the quiet streets overlooked by charming Maltese balconies, went the heaviest bombing of the war by German and Italian and lined with timeworn polished steps remind you of those forces when some 3,000 bombing excursions attempted to who have trod these same steps over the centuries. Modern destroy the island-state. day Valetta is home to concerts, art and jazz festivals, parades, The fortified citadel of Valletta, now also the capital, was and yacht races and while we were there, Brad Pitt was filming built after the Great Siege of Malta in 1566. Described by Dis- “World war Z”, his latest movie and MTV held its annual free raeli, former British Prime Minister when he visited in 1830 as concert attended by nearly 50,000 people.

September 2011 15 Travel

If you are an art lover, do not forget to visit the Roman Cath- Mdina is a stunning mediaeval walled city of chapels, con- olic Cathedral of St John. Its ornate interior houses the huge vents, cathedrals and palazzos. There are no cars in its quiet, Caravaggio masterpiece featuring the Beheading of St John, narrow and curved streets, so designed to impede the flight and completed while the artist was in exile on Malta for a few of arrows. Visit the Mdina (audio-visual) Experience to under- years during his short and eventful life. stand its history, stay at the 5-star Xara Palace boutique hotel, Not only is Malta oozing with culture and history, it is also or take in the panoramic views from the Fontanella Tea Gar- a comfortable blend of antiquity and modernity, which will den while you enjoy lunch. satisfy a wide spread of tastes. The conurbations of Sliema In case you are planning to brush up on your English skills as and St Julian’s offer a buzzing nightlife to those who prefer a business professional, or perhaps send your child, you could to eat, drink, soak up the sun and be merry. You can also consider one of Malta‘s 50 language schools which welcome gamble, play golf or play with dolphins, go sailing or diving twenty to thirty thousand English-language students each year. and take leisurely harbour cruises. Sadly, Malta only has a If you are feeling homesick, pay a visit to the Russian Cen- few sandy beaches but there are several Lidos where you tre for Science and Culture, in Valletta www.rcscmalta.org.mt can buy a day’s membership and take advantage of swim- which holds weekly cultural events such as concerts and ex- ming facilities. hibitions, films, piano recitals. From them, I learnt that some Shoppers familiar with British chains such as Marks & Spencer, 5000 Russians live on the island British Home Stores, Monsoon, Topshop, Next and Oasis, Doro- If you still need to fill your time, you could take advantage thy Perkins, Zara can find them in Valetta and Sliema, across the of Malta’s proximity to Italy, by visiting Sicily, only 90 minutes bay. Note that many shops like to take a siesta between 13.00- away by fast catamaran together with one-day guided excur- 16.00 and the banks open mostly in the first half of the day. Ac- sions to Pozzallo, Taormina and Mt Etna www.virtueferries.co cording to the latest EU statistics, Malta clothing prices are 88% The Maltese, who have been called the friendliest people of the EU average and hotels and restaurant prices are 77% of in the EU, seem to be a happy race and this is evident in their the average, making Malta a good value destination. Budget to enthusiastic and frequent celebration of religious feast days spend around Eu70 for a meal and drinks for four. for the patron saints of each parish. These take place on week- It’s worth planning day trips to Gozo and Mdina. Easy-to- ends throughout the year, but mostly in summer, and involves get-to Gozo distinguishes itself from Malta by its more rural prayer, processions, revelry, band playing, elaborate fireworks and quieter charm. A ferry leaves the north of Malta every 25 displays and late night partying and feasting. The streets of the minutes during high season. Once there, take a hop-on/hop village are richly decorated with flags and bunting, suggesting off open top bus tour of the island and stop off at Victoria, a medieval atmosphere. Each village usually has a band club the quaint capital that seems to be in a bit of a time warp, or two which comprises local men from the village who prac- visit the megalithic Ggantija ruins and take a dip or a dive at tise their instruments all year especially for the Festa, while the Dwerja Bay. women help with decoration and food and drink.

16 September 2011 Travel

Need-to-know Visitors who would like to hone their gambling skills can It’s possible to swim from mid-May to mid-November, mak- take advantage of one of four different casino sites: Oracle ing it ideal for that pre-winter getaway from Moscow in October Casino and Portomaso, Dragonara in St Julian’s and Casino di and November when you will experience mild daytime tem- Venezia in Three Cities. peratures in the 20s. Although Malta appears arid, like all other If the children get bored, visit the dolphins at the Mediterra- Mediterranean destinations, during the months from May to Oc- neo Biopark or the village filmset for the movie Popeye www. tober, the rain starts falling in November (mostly at night), and popeyemalta.com. Teenagers and twenty-somethings will it becomes attractively green within a matter of days. January, enjoy Paceville an area to the north of St Julian’s which has February and March are the coldest months but temperatures become a fashionable mecca for nightlife, with many bars, rarely drop below 10C. In April, May and June the rain stops and clubs and restaurants. This is the place to see and be seen. the temperature cranks up reaching the 30s by the end of June. The Maltese tourism association : www.visitmalta.com at Expect the highest temperatures in the 30s in July and August. 229, Auberge d’Italie, Merchants Street Valletta (info@visit- In summer, you will see blossoming oleanders, oranges, malta.com). P and lemons wantonly hanging from trees, while palms and rubber trees, prickly pears and grapevines help to remind you that you have truly entered another climatic zone. Malta has been rated joint second best place in the world to live with New Zealand by International Living magazine, and as having the best climate in the world along with Zimbabwe. Sunshine averages about 300 days a year The island is crowded and the drivers have a bad reputa- tion, but in my experience, are no worse than in Moscow. Driv- ing is on the left side of the road. The bus transport system is reasonably priced and makes it easy to get to all parts of the island, so much so, that you can get by without hiring a car. Cross the harbour from Valletta to the Three Cities by con- tacting:www.maltawatertaxis.mt.com from March to Decem- ber. There is a regular ferry service from Valletta across the

bay to Sliema. One‘ way of finding out more about the layout of Valletta vis a vis the surrounding harbours is to take a the 90-minute, Two Harbours cruise tour (Latini Cruises). The hop-on/hop-off open-top buses take in either or both the north and south of the island each lasting three hours if you do not get off (info@ exploremalta.com.mt). There are restaurants aplenty, pizza and pasta abound, as well as good Italian-style gelato. Prices are very reason- able, try the favourite national dish of rabbit (fenek) served in a sauce with garlic, onions, wine and herbs. Many differ- ent types of seafood including octopus, dorado, swordfish, sea bass, bream, grouper and rockfish are available. We very much enjoyed the local La Vallette wine. Try the pastry snacks (pastizzi) which are ricotta cheese and pea-filled-pastries, best before 11.00 from small local baker- ies. Valletta, in particular, is very atmospheric and romantic venue for dining at night.

September 2011 17 Travel

Reykjavik remembered, 25 years on Text and photos Luc Jones Until the country went into financial meltdown in 2008, Ice- industries, despite the Cod Wars of the 1970s. Yet it was in the land rarely made the international news—and why would it? early autumn of 1986 that all eyes turned on Iceland when it It’s a lump of volcanic rock just below the Arctic circle contain- was announced to the world that Reykjavik would be hosting ing a population of a third of a million, over half of whom are a historic summit between Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gor- huddled in and around the capital Reykjavik. In fact mention bachev in October of that year. Ironically the talks collapsed Iceland to most people in the UK and they’ll assume you’re at the last minute but the event will always be remembered as referring to the ubiquitous frozen food chain, if they’ve heard the moment when the United States of America met face to of it at all. face with the Soviet Union, and Reagan’s coined phrase: “The What possessed the first settlers to leave the relative com- Evil Empire” appeared more docile after decades of cold war fort of the Norwegian coast and sail northwards into the un- hostilities and arms stockpiling. Both sides agreed to meet known is beyond me and quite what they were looking for or again and eventually put in place a timeframe to reduce their what they expected to find upon arrival are also unanswered nuclear arsenals. A few, short years later, communism in Eu- questions. Iceland was unsurprisingly uninhabited when the rope collapsed and the world moved on. new arrivals landed in 874AD and slowly began to settle the For an uninviting, remote, rocky outpost, Iceland attracts land, founding a parliament in 930 which today is the oldest more than its fair share of tourists, and certainly packs a still in existence. Over the centuries Iceland quietly got on punch in the way of natural attractions—it is after all the sec- with farming & fishing in relative isolation resulting in one of ond largest island in Europe after Great Britain. Conveniently the most homogenous populations in the world, and it was from the capital, most tourists do the “golden triangle” as it’s only after World War II that the western world began to take an easy day trip. We opted for our own wheels and were kind- an interest in the island as a strategic outpost. Iceland was al- ly given an upgraded vehicle, a massive, white SUV, which led lied-occupied during the war and became a member of NATO a member of our team to comment: “I thought we were do- in 1949, despite having no army of its own; cue the arrival of ing a road trip around Iceland, not delivering aid to Somalia!” the Americans who set up a large military base not far from First off is the Thingvellir national park where little remains of the only international airport at Keflavik. the original parliament but it’s beautiful barren setting gives The post-war years in Iceland saw an economic boom, thanks an indication of how difficult it must have been for the earli- largely to the Marshall Plan and industrialization of the fishing est people to seek out an living from the land. Next stop is

18 September 2011 Travel

Getting in: Westerners need to show just a passport, but as Iceland is part of the EU, Russians require a Schengen visa. Bizarrely, Icelandic Embassies don’t issue visas; they leave this hassle to their Norwegian friends When to go: As a Nordic country, the later in the year you go, the earlier it becomes dark and the colder it becomes in the evenings but this doesn’t stop Iceland from being a year- round destination What to speak: English is widely spoken by all, even in the remotest spots Costs: This is Scandinavia so it’s pricey but nowadays not as bad as you’d expect, with accommodation and restaurants available to suit most budgets the trusty Strokkur geyser which conveniently “erupts” every 8 minutes, blasting boiling water into the air several metres high, in front of (for me at least) the highpoint which was the Gulfoss waterfall, which is partly frozen and highlights the beauty that it Iceland’s interior. Given our mode of transport, we chose the off-road route back to base which took in Kerid, a volcanic crater lake formed some three millennia ago. The real fun however is on the runtur, a weekend evening out in Reykjavik, which is basically a glorified, mass pub-crawl for tourists and locals alike (runtur literally translates as “round tour”) with much of the action taking place along and around the pedestrianized Laugavegur street. Expect packed, noisy pubs, rounded off at the end of the night with a famous hot dog down by the harbour. Thanks to the global economic crash, Iceland isn’t anywhere near as expensive as it once was, but for booze expect to pay at least London prices so back- packers should stock up on duty free and sink a few sharpen- ers in the hostel before venturing out (this is what the local youth do). And what could be a better remedy the next day than a leisurely soak in the geothermal Blue Lagoon spa be- fore heading back into town for a reindeer steak for dinner? No trip to Iceland could be complete without a trip to Ey- jafjallajokull. Yes, that little bugger which brought European skies to a standstill in the spring of 2010, grounding almost all aircraft following a violent eruption of ash. It looked pretty tame by the time we rocked up but the debris on the ground was there to see—many said it was Iceland’s response to hav- ing been bankrupted less than two years before. Getting there: There are no direct flights from Moscow, al- though Icelandair fly to many key European (and North Amer- ican) destinations; the easiest change being in either Stock- holm, Copenhagen or London. P

September 2011 19 Finance

selected is the right one. Lifestyle Prop- erties concentrates on well-established Taking Care of residential areas in major world cities like London where capital appreciation is, even now, a reality. The company also helps people who basically want a life- style property, a pad to hang out in over the winter or a cosy place in a warm cli- mate to retire to. There is also a third type of property investment which the Money company specialises in: a so-called “al- ternative” category, where the com- Peter Hainsworth work in practice and he explained that pany helps individuals buy into land or Being an ex-pat has always been asso- for between 0.5% and 1% per annum, even food producing plantations and ciated with earning some serious money. their Hong Kong-based portfolio man- forestry. Indeed, why put up with the pressures of agement team would offer both initial All of Lifestyle Properties are turnkey a difficult job and environment if the pen- and ongoing investment recommenda- solutions, which means that the investor nies aren’t coming in? If you are one of tions. They would allocate client monies has a lot less worry and stress. The com- those fortunate enough and hard-work- into funds and then when appropriate pany has a whole range of investment ing enough to earn reasonable money switch in line with the client’s risk pro- opportunities available, for example in here, it does seem logical to make sure file as the dynamics of markets and as- the UK, from student flats for £28,000 and that you make the most of your capital, set classes change. He stresses that all delivering a 10% yield to flats overlook- and take advantage of any tax advantag- monies are invested directly into the ing the Queen’s gardens for millions. The es which living abroad ensues. funds, and switched between one fund company looks at real estate as being an With global markets being the way and another in the investor’s own name. investment product first and foremost, they are right now, the task of manag- As the investments are made on an in- and this perhaps explains why the due ing your money has become more dif- dividual basis and Business Class Group diligence that it carries out is rather more ficult. When should you enter a market, operates internationally, investment demanding than that carried out by a real when should you buy shares in this fund plans can be taken with you regardless estate company which will be looking at or that fund, when to exit, when to buy of where your career might or might not making a profit during sale or purchase property and when to sell? The list of take you. Business Class Group ensures and then getting out. This factor places a questions goes on and on. Who is going that your funds are “tax effective” mean- whole different angle on the real estate to give you the advice you need, when ing that as long as you are an expatriate investment business and the more one you need it? Perhaps it is better to wait when you start investing, you will not thinks about it, the more it makes sense to for a while, anyway, the job may not be pay a penny or a cent more tax than you work with an investment company which as secure as you hoped. But tomorrow actually legally have to, including on specialises in property rather than a real never comes, and opportunities carry on gains made whilst living abroad. estate company which tries to attracts in- walking straight by every day. I for one, Saving for special purposes such as vestment from abroad. Lifestyle Brokers simply don’t have the time to track ev- retirement and education requires spe- can arrange mortgages on favourable ery fund let alone think about acquiring cialist knowledge, and these are areas terms with international lenders who ac- others assets. As a result, I remain, well, that Mark’s company has a lot of expe- tually favour expatriates with their rela- not rich. Enter financial service compa- rience in. How many of us know all the tively stable incomes at the present time. nies like The Business Class Group. ins and out of how best to capitalise Rob Dennis, the area development man- Mark Kirkham, Operations Director for on UK pension plans by transferring it ager for Lifestyle Properties added that Business Class Group, www.business- to a “QROPS,” which has all sorts of ad- interest can be set against tax returns. UK classgroup.com operates a company vantages, for example? This is an area interest rates are much lower than for ex- that recommends investment solutions where lack of knowledge alone can cost ample in Russia, so the international inves- based on the individual’s circumstanc- money, a lot of money. tor can make a lot more on capital growth es and goals. Usually investments are Business Class Group has all bases on money that is not actually his. made for a minimum of five years. Mark covered when it comes to their clients’ All of these issues and many more, says that his companies would make al- investments, many people turn to prop- can be discussed with Business Class lowances for a typical business cycle, erty to help them create wealth for the Groups Moscow representative on an irrespective of what the external envi- future. Their specialist property arm is informal or formal basis. He’ll be glad if ronment is like. Payment holidays and Lifestyle Properties who are now also you give him a call: P flexibility is part of what makes this operating in Moscow. For the Moscow company’s approach different, and expatriate or indeed wealthy Russians, Brian Johnson, Managing Director, these can be built into the plan. Business investing in the right property brings PFS International, Class Group, and more specifically Plati- not only a feeling of security but an Office 502, 10 Presnenskaya Naber- num Financial Services, who are now income through lettings, if that is the ezhnaya Tower Block C. Tel: +7 495 967 operating in Moscow, provides an ad- purpose you designate for your invest- 7648, Mobile: +7 916 366 7534. ditional option of full investment man- ment. Of course you may be looking Email: [email protected] Advertisement agement. I asked Mark how this would purely for capital growth if the property www.fsplatinum.com

20 September 2011

The Way It Is

What Makes Russians Happy ?

Frank Ebbecke ey. Of course. Money is said to be the name of the happiness In July, Masmi Russia, a respected market research game. And if it’s not enough? Easy. Borrow some. company, conducted a poll among 35,565 rep- Even high interest rates do not seem to deter resentative respondents across this vast people applying for them, although the rate country. Their simple, straightforward key of personal borrowing is far behind that question was: “What makes Russians hap- Russians have of the West. People borrow from their py?” The simple, straightforward answer swallowed the friends here, simpler than from a bank. was: “Money”. Shocking? Surprising? dangerous disease Why save? Who knows what’s going to Amusing? Not really. This is what every- happen tomorrow, better spend whilst body thinks everywhere, the difference of consumerism as you still can. is that bearing in mind the Soviet past, speedily as plunging Why are such attitudes so prevalent? all this is very new in Russia. down a shot of vodka. Over more than half a century during Almost half of the men, to be precise the Soviet Union, accumulating big mon- 47%, are apparently most happy with their ey made little sense. It wasn’t as if there lives when there is loads of money around. was an awful lot to buy. But that has changed. Forty per cent of women totally agree with the Dramatically. In Russia today you can buy just poll. Did they ever realize that money has the bad about everything from just about everywhere. Rus- habit of disappearing quicker than it comes? There is a com- sians have swallowed the dangerous disease of consumerism mon attitude here to spend rather than save. With money one as speedily as plunging down a shot of vodka. can simply buy everything. They reckon. Look West. It’s better there. Today, 70% of Americans liv- Russians just love the newest electronic gadgets, the latest ing in the US are said to be unhappy with the performance fashion, fancy cars, exotic travels, glitz & glitter. Stylish brands of their elected officials. Growing unemployment. Growing to show off. Whatever it costs. At least this is true in Moscow, debts. No money. Materialism can prove to be a toxic poison the hub of the nation. “Shop till you drop”. All you need is mon- for happiness. Let’s not forget the somewhat frightening fi-

22 September 2011 The Way It Is nancial disaster scenario in good old Europe: pray for Greece, ers) “Engagement” (the absorption of an enjoyed yet chal- Portugal, Spain and now Italy. Who’s next? If countries like lenging activity), “Relationships” (social ties—an extremely these, including the USA, were private companies they would reliable indicator of happiness), “Meaning” (a perceived quest have been put out of business long ago. One crisis follows or belonging to something bigger), “Accomplishments” (hav- another, faster and faster. Who still has enough money nowa- ing realized tangible goals). days? Maybe Russians. Well, some of them. A quote from the wealth of Russian historical (at times hys- What else do the research results tell us about happiness? terical) sayings and beliefs: “A Russian (in particular a woman) What about concepts like “stability”, “confidence in the fu- is only happy when unhappy.” Well, then everything sounds pretty much OK. Because who has enough money in this quickly changing society, other than a famous few? If money Why not just take it easy with Lev is what makes roughly half of the Russian population really Tolstoy: “If you want to be happy, happy, then this half of the nation must be sadly unhappy, be happy”. Some have already which should make them happy, shouldn’t it? understood: after all, 10% of the men Sounds confusing? It is. Like so many things. Never even try to understand. Why not just take it easy with Lev Tolstoy: “If and 8% of the women interviewed you want to be happy, be happy.” Some have already under- claimed “I’m happy, I have everything”. stood: after all, 10% of the men and 8% of the women inter- viewed claimed “I’m happy, I have everything.” Allow me one concluding comment, as Russians just love ture” or “knowledge”? These highly desirable qualities of life music and singing. And now all together: “Don’t worry, be scored much lower in the ratings. These are perhaps the only happy”. This 1988 worldwide #1 hit by New York-born Bobby thing that money cannot buy, or at least money alone cannot McFerrin made everybody everywhere pick happiness over buy. worrying. In fact, these famous words originally were the last What about “love?” Only 25% of men and 29% women words of Indian Guru Meher Baba. Back on July 10, 1925, he think that is important. Just a quick note on this. The average took a vow of silence. He did, indeed, stick to this vow until he length that people stay married is just two years until the first died 44 years later, only communicating in writing or by hand divorce on average in Moscow. Drinking problems are attrib- signs with the rest of the world. However, it has been never uted as being the most common reason (45%), and money reported whether his very individual lifestyle made him really problems (17%). happy. P The lowest happiness-rating criterion goes to “friends”, who notch up only 6%. I beg your pardon? This is a country in which for well over half a century everybody was taught to be everybody’s friend. The second last criterion for becoming happy is “communication with loved ones” (7% of men & 10% of women). How can this be, when we live in a country where everybody tells you that family ties are the highest form of human communication! Happiness. Happiness is a quite fuzzy concept. There are roughly seven billion people fighting daily for a human, decent way to live on this planet. And they experience as many billion reasons to feel happy. Or rather unhappy. Hap- piness can mean billions of things to billions of people. Like a cup of clean water. Like a handful of food which makes millions of people happy these days in certain regions of East Africa. On the other hand a majority of people in classic capitalist strongholds like the US and Germany claim that a professional career makes them most happy. One reason for this is that career growth usually means an increasing disposable income, which can be used for self-realisation, a second is that career growth brings self-realisation in itself, in many cases. Here, in Russia, the general rule seems to be making money for the sake of money. Whatever it takes. Often with selfish greediness and social irresponsibility. Where does that lead to? Not that far on the bumpy road to becoming happy. Hap- piness, sociologists say, is simply a mental state of well-being. Whereas in Russia, happiness seems to be the physical state of a full pocket. Obviously money alone is not enough. American psycholo- gist Martin Seligman provides the acronym PERMA to sum- marize his findings. People seem to be happiest when they have Pleasure (tasty food, a beautiful sunset, the smell of flow-

September 2011 23 The Way It Is and Was

TEDDY BOY POWER!

Richard Hume with the British Teddy Boy culture after we met for the first Paintings by Alexander Chalovsky time 3 years ago in Moscow. Since then he has produced The culture of the British Teddy Boy is not one that is associated works of art depicting the Ted as a latter-day knight of old, with works of art. But in Moscow another first has been achieved. with his fighting codes of honour and colourful dress code. Ever since the 1950s, when many working class teenagers in Rather than put on these exhibitions at art galleries, he has the UK became Teddy Boys and thus helped to invent the first chosen to exhibit his Teddy Boy works at rock’n’roll concerts ever culture devoted to Youth, the cult of the Teddy Boy has in Moscow. He feels this gives his works a more authentic ap- been associated generally with loud clothes, loud music, and re- peal, instead of in the more sedate confines of an art studio. bellious behaviour. In the 1950s in particular, Teds were branded This is not only a first for Moscow, but a world first. Never be- in the media as public enemy number one, responsible (it was fore has an art exhibition been devoted solely to Teds and their claimed) for gang fights, violence and anti-social behaviour generally. In the 1970s, during the Teddy Boy Revival, they were known in addition for their rivalry and antipathy to Punks and What’s the difference between a punk the Punk movement. Aah, takes me back to my Ted days in the and the scarecrow in the Wizard of Oz ? 70s, and reminds me of jokes like: what’s the difference between The scarecrow is better dressed ……. the a punk and the scarecrow in the Wizard of Oz ? The scarecrow is great thing about a punk festival is that better dressed. The great thing about a Punk festival is that after a nuclear attack it looks exactly the same as before. after a nuclear attack it looks exactly the As a lifelong Ted myself, I can testify the above stereotype same as before. does not quite do justice to Ted culture. For one thing, Teds have always had their codes of honour, even when it came to physical aggression. culture. In addition, Alexander is very much a modern artist. He And for sheer style you cannot beat that Ted look: long is the foremost exponent of the “new romantic” style. Rather Edwardian-style colourful drape jackets, drainpipe trousers, than re-create just what he sees, his works are very much an bolo ties, brothel creeper shoes—magic! interpretation of what he sees and observes, enlarging and Which leads into what is happening right now in Moscow: emphasizing the things he considers most important. Have a The Russian artist Alexander Chalovsky became fascinated look at the paintings and you’ll see what I mean.

24 September 2011 The Way It Is and Was

And it’s refreshing to see a well known and renowned art- ist focus on an aspect of working-class culture, as opposed to the so-called “high-brow” middle and upper-class ones. Alexander is no stranger to controversy. Over the years he has ruffled some features in the artistic world—in particular with his female nudes and even stronger erotic works ! In December of last year, the world’s number one Teddy Boy band, Furious (from Liverpool, UK) came to Moscow to perform. I was the concert promoter. Alexander was there to exhibit his works and talk to the band. It was a big moment for both the members of the group and for him to meet each other and exchange information on Ted culture. So, Thank you to Alexander for giving us Teds what we’ve deserved all along—recognition that we’re not just a bunch of juvenile delinquents (or in the case of some of us, aging delinquents!). And hail the Teds—along with other 1950s trail- blazers, we were the first real youth culture in history: Dear Mods, Rockers, Punks, Glam Rockers, Skinheads, Heavy Metal freaks, Rappers, Hip Hoppers, etc., if it wasn’t for us you’d never have happened! To see more of these Teddy Boy works of art, go to www.gallery.ru and www.linearts.ru To find out more about Alexander’s works, contact the Line Arts studio at www.linearts.ru/ More details about the Teddy Boys and their history can be found at www.edwardianteddyboyassociation.com For more info about Teddy Boys in Russia, go to my web- site at www.coopjive.co.uk (head for the feedback page). P

September 2011 25 Out & About The Kremlin Cossacks Text and photos by Ian Mitchell the military tattoo “Spasskaya Bashnaya 2011”, from 1st to 4th Recently PASSPORT visited the Kremlin Equestrian School at September. The school is a commercial organisation, despite its stables and showground at Krasnogorsk, near Khimki. The its name, which appears to have been “franchised”, partly be- occasion was one of the regular, public displays of Cossack- cause the Commandant of the Kremlin Cavalry Guard is a style riding, which are very impressive indeed. The riders are shareholder in the enterprise. Interested potential customers from the stunt team of the Cavalry Escort to the Presidential should consult the website: www.kremlin-ksk.ru Others should Regiment. They will be performing in Red Square at the time of try to get to Red Square for the daytime displays. P

26 September 2011 Out & About

September 2011 27 Moscow Guide

Metro Ploschad Revolutsia

Metro Mayakovskaya Metro Trubnaya Moscow metro fun, an idiots’ guide

Jay Morley, photos by Julia Nozdracheva and off the platforms and a continuous flow of sweaty bodies Taking the Metro here in Moscow takes some getting used on and off the trains in the summer. The seasons make a dif- to if you are not from a big city or if you are not used to us- ference to your Metro experience. In the summer, the Metro ing the Metro or “Underground” as we Brits like to call it. As a abyss is cool and a welcome break from the intense city heat country mouse, I found taking the Metro here difficult to do and smoke. Some trains have air-conditioning, while most of and it took me at least a year to get the hang of it as thankfully the trains are old and you will cook in the summer however, I only use the Metro on an occasional basis. the Russian trains are bright and larger than the London Un- We all know Moscow is a mega city, like a bee hive that has derground where the London Underground trains are fine if run out of space and so the Metro gets very crowded during you are small and don’t mind having all your dignity removed rush hour. There is almost a continuous flow of bodies onto as you stand with your nose pressed against the armpit of a

28 September 2011 Moscow Guide

Metro Tsvetnoi Bulvard

Metro Tsvetnoi Boulevard Metro Dostoevsky fellow train user. In the winter, the Moscow Metro is warm and you can ask a friend to write the station you want to go to in a welcome break from the ice and snow. Many of the stations English on a piece of paper, then just say the station to the are beautiful to look at and offer a glimpse of the past and the ticket women making a the gesture of both ways with your Utopian Socialist work ideal. The Metro is like a glorified path hands (a return ticket) or just hold up your fingers to say how to “work for all” rather than a journey to the hum-drum work- many train rides you want. At the barrier, to enter the bowels ing week. The Moscow Metro is fairly cheap and very reliable. of the Metro labyrinth, swipe your ticket on the yellow dot I think it is a lot better than the London Underground. and it will deduct one ride from your ticket total and let you Before you even get to the Metro, plan your journey and inside Stalin’s magical fairground ride, minus candy floss. study the map carefully, it will help if you can at least read Head to the escalators that plummet deep down into the the Russian alphabet and read the Metro stations. As you en- abyss and to the platforms below. Stand on the right of the ter the Metro, your first challenge is to make it through the escalator steps as mad people who are either late or who heavy doors without getting a broken nose. This is because wish to get fit without paying a gym membership, push past they are heavy and swing shut almost as if the Metro does you going down or up to shave two minutes of their journey not want you to enter it but the reality is that the Metro cre- time! I always stand in the middle on the steps just to annoy ates a kind of vacuum seal due to the constant piston action people and to see if the woman in her glass box is still awake of trains pushing air through all the tunnels. Once inside, you as she peacefully dozes in front of her CCTV. There is some- must then buy a ticket. You can buy tickets by single journeys thing about the low mechanical thud of the escalators that is or by many journeys. They come in one, ten, twenty or sixty almost hypnotic. At the bottom, make your way past the old rides. At the time of writing, sixty Moscow passes/tickets will sleeping woman who sits in her glass box. Her job is to check cost you about 1,250 roubles. The women behind the ticket the escalator and make occasional important announce- desk wear blue overalls and look like office cleaners, a smile ments just to prove to people that she is not sleeping or dead. is not included in the ticket price. Before you take the Metro, I think some are actually dead but no one remembered to re-

September 2011 29 Moscow Guide

Metro Marina Roschi

Metro Stretenski Boulevard

A metro carriage move them from the glass cabin, they sit there like Lenin for be sensible. You will see boys in the Metro that look like they all eternity preserved by the putrid stale Metro air. I think the are film extras from a Nazi war movie, they wear long trench Metro administration somehow forget to put a line through coats in the winter and walk together in silent packs down that job “escalator monitor” when they made staff changes the Metro corridors. some twenty years ago. I have noticed that many Russian Metro users are polite to Read the signs and find your platform, breathe and keep older people or to pregnant women and will get up and give calm, your goal is in sight. Many stations have stations within their seat to them. This is fairly unusual in my country where stations and some Metro stations are vast marble cathedrals a pregnant women or an old person is just left to stand to a now discarded ideal. Walking up and down tunnels and there, often on crutches while some spiky haired guy listens corridors is the norm in Moscow and it will keep you very to his poof diddy rap music without giving a shit. Respect fit. Once on the train, grab a seat and count the stations to still lives on, or at least it does in some parts of Moscow on your stop. At every stop a message will tell you what the the Metro. However and in contradiction to the above, Mus- next station is. If you are worried or if you are lost, like I of- covite’s tend to push onto the train when the doors open at ten am, just look sorry for yourself, find a pretty girl and ask the station, so be ready to push your way off the train like a her where you are. Many young Russians speak some Eng- bull at a matador. lish and by my experience are often very happy to help you. When you leave the train at your destination, the esca- There are of course mad people and drunks sometimes, like lators are packed with bodies at rush hour, metal barriers in any big Metro system. My advice is common sense, if you funnel people like laboratory rats to the escalator stairs. see a crazy or a drunk, don’t make eye contact and move on Shuffle slowly forward and guard your personal space down the train or move down the platform. Some ex-pats with care and with confidence. Stick to the metal barrier to have been badly beaten at stations and the police generally avoid being crushed and don’t be too surprised if you see are not around or don’t care if you are attacked. Be safe and a person with a dog, bicycle or a pair of skis on their shoul-

30 September 2011 Moscow Guide

der. I don’t recommend taking small kids on the Metro at you leave the station so that you will know how to get back to rush hour. If you have child backpack, put your beloved in your platform to go home again. If you get drunk and wish to that and carry him or her on your back, (not recommend- get home again, good luck, your wife will not see you till the ed if they are teenagers) they will be a lot safer than in a next day or maybe never again. pushchair (stroller) again, walk by the metal barrier to the Moscow is such a populated city that driving in the week is escalator rather than in the centre of the crowd. If you take only for the mad, bad or very brave or if you are lucky enough a pushchair, go backwards up the escalator and hold on to have a company or personal driver. It would be interesting tight. People are usually considerate if you have a child to see how Moscow is in ten years’ time and to see if the Metro with you on the Metro. and road system is still functioning or to see if it has totally col- When you leave the Metro, make sure you take the correct lapsed under the population strain? I suspect it will have col- Metro exit. Moscow is vast with huge roads in every direc- lapsed by then if nothing is done to improve the transport sys- tion. If you exit at the wrong point at your destination, you tems of Moscow. The same can be said for London and Tokyo will have a long walk to get to where you want to go. Leav- but money for such things usually disappears or is never put ing a Metro station is the one thing I don’t really enjoy and aside for projects to improve unimportant things like public there are many signs that are a bit confusing to the linguisti- transport, especially in a country like Russia. cally and mentally challenged like myself. Again, target the For more information and further thoughts on this, ex-pat right person and they will help you to get out to where you life and other topics see English Dad In Moscow at: www.eng- want to go. Try to take note and remember the way out as lishdadinmoscow.com P

Regulations Governing Health Care of Foreign Citizens in Russia

Alexander Ksenofontov, Senior Lawyer, LEVINE Bridge

Regulations governing health care of Employers for their employees; foreign citizens in Russia are defined by Customers and licensees in the name Resolution #546 of the Government of the of natural persons who are their con- Russian Federation of September 1, 2005. tractors, authors or licensors; Medical care is provided to foreign Entrepreneurs or barristers represent- citizens in any medical institution that is ing themselves. federal, municipal or private care facility. To receive medical care under the com- Emergency and ambulance medical pulsory health insurance system, a foreign- care is provided to foreigners for free er must obtain a medical insurance policy and without delay. Emergency medical from a certified medical insurance provid- such persons is the obligation of their care is provided to foreigners in all state er and show it each time when he is seek- employers (customers). and municipal medical care facilities, ing medical attention. Foreigners temporarily staying in and attended to by medical care pro- The amount of medical assistance Russia without either kind of residency fessionals, first responders and police under the compulsory health insurance status are eligible for free emergency officials. These institutions and persons system is limited. For additional health care only. Payment of other medical ser- are obligated to provide medical care to care a foreigner must pay for medical vices is the responsibility of the foreign a foreign citizen when his or her life is services provided, or opt in to a volun- citizen. They can request payment for threatened due to accident, trauma, in- tary health insurance program (pur- medical services be made by the per- jury, poisoning or other reasons. chase medical insurance). son who invited them to Russia (inviting Once emergency medical care has Special rules governing payment party) or may at his own expense pur- been rendered and the foreign citizen for medical service are established chase health care or medical insurance. is released, a foreigner can be provided for foreigners, who are Highly Quali- When a foreigner citizen is applying for with on-going medical care for a fee. fied Specialists and members of their a medical plan, a doctor may request a Foreign citizens who have temporary families according to Federal Law of statement of medical history, data from and permanent residence are insured 25.07.2002 № 115-FZ “On the Legal previous clinical, radiological, laboratory via a compulsory medical insurance Status of Foreign Citizens in the Rus- and other tests. In addition, it is necessary program. Costs associated with medi- sian Federation”. Even when such for- to remember, medical records in Russia cal care are paid not by the patient, eigners have temporary or permanent are maintained in Russian only. P but by the medical insurance provider. residence in Russia, they are not con- Funds for a medical care program are sidered as being covered under the + 7 495 980 04 36 derived from mandatory health insur- compulsory health insurance system. [email protected] ance premiums that are paid by: Payment of medical care services for Advertisement www.levinebridge.com

September 2011 31 Real Estate Kaido Kaarma, General Director of the real estate company Est-a-tet, spoke to PASSPORT about prospects of investment in residential real estate in the Moscow market

Q: Before the economic downturn, investment in residential up to 50% of apartments were bought either as investments. real estate in Russia, and especially in Moscow, yielded high But these days, in the economy and business-class seg- returns and was quite popular. Then, due to the economic ments, this figure is no higher than 20%. Even when it comes crisis, investors basically fled from the market. What is the to more expensive property, it is more important for a cus- situation now? tomer to purchase an apartment. And then they will be able A: The segment of newly constructed property is still popu- to see whether they would move in or resell it with a profit. lar. But previously an investor could enter just about any proj- But what is important is that the price should be lower than ect, without giving it much consideration, and a 20% a year a market average, so that the capital [invested in a property] return on investment was pretty much guaranteed. Now, the would be working. average return on investment is about 25% for the entire con- struction period – from the beginning to completion. And the Q: Is it possible to make an investment decision without having most attractive objects for investment are individual projects any specific expertise in the field and knowledge of the market? rather than larger-scale developments. As far as larger-scale A: An investor will need professional assistance in any projects go, very often sales go down at a certain point be- case. It’s very important to understand the overall situa- cause price expectations hit the maximum. tion in the market and also have a good idea what exactly is going on in a particular neighborhood and in a particular Q: If we look back at the economic crisis, what was the imme- project. For instance, last year, we had a project, the ninth diate impact on the real estate market as far as investors are neighborhood in Reutov, where prices went up by 45% in concerned? just one year. The most important factor that had an impact A: As a result of the crisis, both demand and supply shrank. on that growth was the opening of a Metro station close by. At first sight, one balanced the other, but what also changed I have repeatedly pointed that out: if the Metro comes to any was the investor’s mentality. Today’s consumers understand of Moscow’s satellite towns, that has a serious impact on real that such high demand as we used to have, is no longer there, estate prices there. and take their time making decisions. Consequently, in large- scale projects, prices don’t go up significantly, making invest- Q: What other factors can have an impact on the price of a resi- ment uneconomical. But as for individual projects, supply is dential property, making it a potentially profitable investment? smaller, and it is possible to find a good investment opportu- A: Sometimes properties are sold at a deliberately discount- nity by carefully studying apartments for views, layouts and ed price, which could also be a good investment opportunity. so on. But a potential investor needs to very carefully choose One example is The English Quarter. It has been under devel- a project as well as a particular apartment in it. It happens that opment since 2006, and has gone through different stages, some apartments are noticeably underrated, especially in the including suspension. And although that’s a business-premi- first stages of construction. um class project, when sales started in August 2010, the price was around 150,000 roubles to 160,000 roubles, [per square Q: How has the proportion of so-called “investment apart- metre] attracting a substantial proportion of investors. But ments”—those bought by individuals as an investment rather by December, the price went up to over 200,000 roubles, and than to live in —changed in the wake of the crisis? since then, growth has slowed down. A: When speaking about “investment apartments”, we One important criterion for choosing an investment proj- should rather look at individual development projects rath- ect is the reliability of the developer. Risks of a project not er than the market as a whole. There were projects, in which being completed are still there. So, it is vital that a realtor,

32 September 2011 Real Estate through which an investor purchases a property, deals only And an investment should be made at an early stage of with reliable developers. An investor needs to know who construction. For 10 million roubles, one could consider the developer is and where the financing for the project is options within city limits, like on Michurinsky Prospekt. coming from—whether a loan is involved or the project is fi- And, talking about more expensive properties, I would nanced exclusively by proceeds from pre-selling apartments. still suggest The English Quarter, even though prices there There is an idea around that construction of a building can are unlikely to go up there as substantially as they did in be financed exclusively from pre-sales of apartments in it, the past. Once the construction is completed, the average and prices are thus lower because the developer doesn’t price of an apartment there is likely to be around $10,000 have to pay interest on loans. However, if sales don’t pick up per square meter, and at this point it’s still possible to buy quickly, a project can be suspended. So, this is something to at $7,500 per square meter. There is also the residential watch out for. building Shatyor, which could bring investors a good re- turn, as in that area, around Krasnoselskaya metro station, Q: What projects should potential investors with different nothing much is being built at this point. And the building budgets, say, 2 million roubles, 5 million roubles, 10 million is also good in terms of quality. roubles and up, look at in the market of Moscow and the region? Q: Would it make sense to take a mortgage loan on a residen- A: If we are talking about an investment between 1.5 tial property, expecting to eventually make a profit from price million roubles to 2 million roubles, the returns won’t be growth surpassing the interest rate? significant. We have sold apartments in the project Marusi- A: I’m rather negative about this. Even if you can take a no, in which apartments ready to move in sold for under mortgage loan from Sberbank at 8% a year, which is hardly 2 million roubles and we are currently selling apartments possible when it comes to newly-built properties and primar- in Zelenogradsky near Pushkino, which retail between ily applies to secondary-market options, the interest will kill 1.5 million roubles and 2.5 million roubles. But getting a all your potential profits. The mortgage might be worth look- 25% return on investment won’t be easy there because ing at if someone just wants to buy an apartment that could that kind of property, being really affordable, is primarily be later rented out. But again, profits from renting out an bought by young families to move in. The share of inves- apartment are not that great, around 5% a year. In my opin- tors in such projects is under 10%. If an investor looks at ion, the mortgage is a good solution in a situation when a building within a range of 5 million roubles, they should someone lives in an old, poor-quality apartment, like a look at Moscow Oblast towns where supply of new residen- “Khrushchevka” building, and wants to move to a better one, tial property isn’t extensive, like, for instance, Shcherbinka. but not for investment. P

September 2011 33 Real Estate News Vladimir Kozlov How to take public transport

Куда? – Where to? Какой троллейбус идёт до метро? Which trolleybus goes to the metro? Этот автобус идёт до метро? Does this bus go as far as the metro? Этот троллейбус идёт до Полянки? Does this bus go to Polyanka? Здесь автобус номер 5 останавливается? Does the number Moscow remains in OAO Gostinichnaya Kompaniya. How- 5 bus stop here? over-populated ever, the evaluation of that holding could Этот трамвай останавливается be difficult, as the fate of the company’s возле магазина “Всё для Дома?” The average size of residential prop- most valuable asset, the plot of land on Does this tram stop near the shop erty per Moscow resident is currently which the demolished hotel Rossiya “Everything for the home”? about 19 sq meters, compared with 35 used to be located, is uncertain. sq meters on average in Europe and 65 Билеты - Tickets meters in the United States, the business Moscow’s construction Где можно купить билет? daily Kommersant reported. According capacities insufficient Where can I buy a ticket? to the report, it will take 15 years to in- Сколько стоит билет? crease that figure to at least 22 sq me- The city government is prepared to How much is a ticket? ters. Technically, the existing housing take out substantial construction con- Сколько стоит проезд? capacity could be doubled if residential tracts, but the existing capacities are How much is one trip? buildings are constructed on the sites not sufficient, the business daily Vedo- Дайте, пожалуйста, один билет. of industrial zones within city limits and mosti reported. According to the report, One ticket, please. five-story “Khrushchevka” buildings, but construction capacities shrank as labour Одну поездку на метро, that would present an unsurpassable and some companies left the market пожалуйста. One trip to the metro, challenge for the city’s infrastructure. originally due to the economic down- please. Meanwhile, the residential situation in turn and later because of uncertainty Сколько стоит проездной на the country’s other major cities is bet- around many development projects in месяц? How much is a monthly pass? ter than in the capital. For instance, for the city under the new Moscow govern- У вас есть единый? (метро, St Petersburg, which has a population ment. Meanwhile, city authorities are автобус, трамвай, троллейбус) of 4.9 million people, compared with optimistic, planning to invest 429 billion Do you have an all-inclusive ticket? Moscow’s 11.5 million, the average resi- roubles into construction projects in (metro, bus, tram, trolleybus) dential property figure is 22.4 sq meters the capital in 2012, 446 billion roubles in Дайте, пожалуйста, 20 поездок на per resident, which corresponds to the 2013 and 476 billion roubles in 2014. метро. Please can I have a ticket for national average. 20 metro trips. Reconstruction planned City to privatize hotel assets in the city centre В общественном транспорте – On public transport Moscow authorities are planning to Rostovskaya Embankment and Plush- Вы выходите на следующей? partially privatize the early 1950s build- chikha Street in the centre are to under- Are you getting off at the next stop? ing which currently houses the Hilton go major reconstruction as part of the Какая следующая остановка? Leningradskaya, Natalya Sergunina, city’s attempt to improve the traffic situ- What’s the next stop? head of the city government’s property ation in Moscow, the wire service RIA Садитесь, пожалуйста. Я постою. department was quoted as saying by the Novosti reported. As part of the recon- Please have a seat, I can stand. wire service RIA Novosti, adding that the struction works, the embankment and Вы не скажете, когда будет city owns a 30% share in the building the street, located near Smolenskaya Полянка? Can you tell me please and is ready to completely pull out. The Metro station, will be widened to be when we get to Polyanka? building, located near Komsomolskaya able to accommodate more traffic, Alex- Metro station, is one of the “Seven Sis- ander Kuzmin, the city’s chief architect, ters” skyscrapers built in the late 1940s was quoted as saying by RIA. The recon- and early 1950s in Stalinist neoclassical struction and broadening of the exist- style. The evaluation process is to begin ing transport arteries is the centrepiece this autumn, after which the city’s share of a plan aimed at improving the city’s in the building will be put up for sale. traffic situation and adopted by - Mos According to Sergunina, the city govern- cow’s new government under mayor ment also plans to sell its minority share Sergei Sobyanin. P

34 September 2011

Wining & Dining

Gut Check

36 August 2011 Wining & Dining Charles W. Borden Barashka has Moscow’s best Azeri menu in a comfortable A few months ago, we questioned the results of the annual S. cosmopolitan if not romantic setting. Passport’s friend, Shiraz Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants, which placed Varvary Mamedov describes Azeri cuisine as original and diverse, using at #48, followed by Semifreddo and Chaika in the top 100. The a rich assortment of herbs, vegetables, fruits, spices, meat, and crowning of Vavary, Semifreddo and Chaika as Moscow’s best fish from the Caspian area, together with the strong cheeses provoked a heated discussion in the PASSPORT dining circle, typical of the Caucasus and the fresh and sour milk that are and a personal “gut check” of the Moscow restaurant menu. used as a base for soups and sauces. Barashka shows a passion The list below contains my Moscow Top 15. How do I define for cooking and presentation that has been sadly missing from a “best” restaurant? It serves “a meal prepared with the high- most of the Caucasus region establishments I have visited over est quality, freshest ingredients, by people who greatly care the years. There are now three Barashka locations. what they serve, and led by a culinary artist, whether that art- Café Pushkin ist was trained in a top chef school or is a local, self-trained Lodged in a faux 19th century Russian lodge, Café Pushkin artisan. The meal should be served in an enjoyable, restful or has long been the obligatory yet well deserved first dinner at least locally interesting environment, by courteous and re- stop for foreign business visitors to Moscow. The Pushkin up- sponsive wait-staff.” date of Russian classic dishes is superb, the service very good , just the place to make your first Russian business deal... The Supremes Cantinetta Antinori The three below head the class, with sumptuous cuisine Cantinetta Antinori, a partnership between the Italian An- made from the freshest ingredients by a true artisan-chef, tinori wine family and Novikov, serves a rich Tuscan menu un- very good service, and comfortable and relaxing setting. der the stewardship of Chef Bianco Mauro. Though the food La Marée is excellent, it’s Domenico Anaclerio, the front of house who La Marée owner, Tunisian Mehdi Douss, founded and runs keeps the restaurant in the stratosphere of Moscow restau- Moscow’s leading fresh seafood business, flying in fresh fish rants. “Domenico”, as regulars call him, represents an element to supply many of the city’s top restaurants. There are two all too missing from many, if not most, of the city’s dining es- La Marée in the city and one out in Zhukovka, my favorite tablishments. opened just over a year ago in majestic digs on Malaya Gru- Carre Blanc zinskaya. Each La Marée has a boutique seafood market with This is Moscow’s best French restaurant (and one of the the fresh-off-the-plane catch laid out on ice, a diner’s first stop few). Chef Eric Le Provos executes French classics, but Carre to select gifts of the sea to be prepared whole, filleted, baked Blanc also has a small comfy bistro menu and a quiet bar. in salt, steamed, “la plancha” or with Tunisian spices. Chef Abdessatar Zitouni oversees the La Marée kitchen, serving Mediterranean and Tunisian specialties. A favorite is Zitouni’s magnificent, rich, dark ochre Bouillabaisse brimming with an assortment of Mediterranean shellfish and fish. La Marée also caters to Moscow’s sushi fanatics with fresh sashimi assort- ment. If I have ever had fresher or better in Moscow I surely don’t remember. Nedalny Vostok (Not Far East) Australian Glen Ballis is the artist in residence at Nedalny Vostok, the greatest of restaurateur Arkady Novikov’s estab- lishments. The restaurant centerpiece is its large, open, rect- angular, stainless and glass kitchen, sous-chefs hard at work on all sides. Ballis serves a creative Pan-Asian-Fusion menu with an emphasis on Kamchatka crab. Ballis is a disciplinarian, with an obsession for detail that is on display to all each night in the open kitchen. More than a few Moscow restaurants have Glen to thank for kitchen staff who have served time at Nedalny Vostok. Ragout The newest and most democratic of the top three is Ragout, where Ilya Shalev is the chef-artist. A Stavropol native, Shalev returned to Russia after study at Cordon Bleu, and a stint with super chef and nouvelle cuisine pioneer Alain Senderens. The food at Ragout is exquisite and wonderfully presented, service polite without hovering, setting relaxed and cheerful, and the prices astoundingly reasonable. Ragout’s menu, a sin- gle page, reflects Shalev’s creative nouvelle cuisine influence, with a few nods to Asian and Russian. The Best of the Rest The restaurants below consistently offer exceptional food and a delightful dining experience. Barashka

September 2011 37 Wining & Dining

Chicago Prime Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 69 Steak is Moscow’s new restaurant growth market, but the +7 495 662 6458 first mover, Goodman’s, has relegated itself to a mediocre Metro Belorusskaya chain. During the past year, the Starlite Diner folks opened Nedalny Vostok (Not Far East) Chicago Prime, specializing in corn-fed American beef and Tverskoy Bulvar 15 quickly took the lead. Tel: +7 495 694 0641, +7 495 694 0154 Kai Metro Pushkinskaya This Mediterranean-Asian fine dining establishment at Swissotel is the only hotel restaurant on this list. Swissotel’s The Best of the Rest Executive Chef Jean-Michel Hardouin-Atlan conceived Kai as Barashka French-Asian fusion. Seafood dominates, but the menu is full Ulitsa Petrovka 20/1 of inviting combinations. Tel: +7 495 625 2892 Kinki Metro Chekhovskaya, Kuznetsky Most This Modern Japanese restaurant in the Krylatskaya sub- Novy Arbat 21/1 urbs features a big, wood-fired Robata grill as its centerpiece, Tel: +7 495 228 3731 ensconced by a large, heavy granite sushi bar. Kinki’s seafood Metro Smolenskaya is some of the best in town, and Kiwi chef Aaron Stott’s cre- Ulitsa 1905 goda ative kitchen skills are more than a match for Moscow’s two +7 499 252 2571 big names in creative Japanese cuisine. Kinki is well worth a Metro Krasnopresnenskaya trip to the outskirts. Café Pushkin Navarro’s Tverskoy Bulvar 26A Yuri Navarro heads one of Moscow’s best (and few) chef- +7 495 739 0033 owned restaurants with a meticulously prepared and deli- Metro Pushkinskaya cately spiced Latin American and Mediterranean menu. Cantinetta Antinori Night Flight Denejhniy pereulok 20 Despite the Night Flight nightclub “let’s do it tonight” repu- +7 499) 241 3771 tation, the separate restaurant is the place to find elk carpac- Metro Smolenskaya cio, grilled reindeer steak and genuine Swedish meatballs Carre Blanc prepared by Swedish chef Michael Willuhn. Seleznevskaya ulitsa 19/2 Osteria Montiroli +7 495 258 4403 Massimiliano Montiroli is the master at this Italian country Metro Dostoevskaya tavern, a cosy contrast to Moscow’s many sterile Italian res- Chicago Prime taurants. I loved the Tagliolini con gamberi e pomodorini, Strastnoy bulvar 8a prepared by the master in a hollowed out wheel of Parmi- +7 495 988 1717 giano-Reggiano: flamed, melted and stirred until creamy and Metro Chekhovskaya then the lightly cooked pasta gently slipped in to absorb the Kai cheese. Swissotel Krasnye Holmy Tinatin +7 495 221 5358 Caucasian menus are typically voluminous, but chef Maya Metro Paveletskaya Patsatsiya’s Georgian repertoire is more accessible with many Kinki creative updates of traditional favorites. Tinatin is also Mos- Ulitsa Ocennaya 11 cow’s first fine dining restaurant to feature a well-selected +7 495 781 1697 list of the few very good wines that are made in Russia’s wine Metro Krylatskaya country along the northern Black Sea coast. Navarro’s Shmitovsky Proyezd 23 The Outlier +7 499 259 3791 Varvari Metro Ulitsa 1905 Goda The sole reason that Vavari makes this list is its Pellegrino Night Flight coup. I haven’t been there; it hasn’t been in Passport’s budget Ulitsa Tverskaya 17 yet and certainly not mine, so I withhold judgment. Anatoli +7 495 629 4165 Komm’s concept of a modern Russian cuisine (molecularized) Metro Pushkinskaya is promising, and the premises inviting. P Osteria Montiroli Bolshoi Nikitskaya 60 The Top Three Metro Barrikadnaya La Marée (two locations) Tinatin Malaya Gruzinskaya 1/23 Ulitsa Plyoshchenko 58 +7 495 609 3925 +7 495 761 3800 Metro Barrikadnaya Metro Smolenskaya Petrovka Street 28/2 Varvari +7 495 694 0930 Strastnoy bulvar 8a Metro Chekhovskaya +7 495 229 2800 Ragout Metro Chekhovskaya

38 September 2011 We can help you!

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phone: +7 (495) 640 0508 Wine & Dining

13 Ulitsa Bolshaya Nikitskaya, 775-5188, 775-4310 AMERICAN M. Arbatskaya, Biblioteka im. Lenina LEBANESE www.coffeemania.ru CORREA'S STARBUCKS SHAFRAN New American, non-smoking environment, cool Now has 32 locations. Quiet and cosy atmosphere. Culinary master- comfort food at several Moscow locations www. starbuckscoffee.ru pieces of Arabic cuisine. Varied and substantial 7 Ulitsa Gasheka, 789-9654 VOLKONSKY PEKARNYA-KONDITERSKAYA lunches. Unusual and tasty breakfasts. The mezze M. Mayakovskaya The coffee service at this bakery takes second is completely addictive! STARLITE DINER place to its fabulous French-style baked goods. Spiridonievsky pereulok, 12/9, 737-95-00 Paul O’Brien’s 50s-style American Starlite Din- Smoke-free. www.restoran-shafran.ru ers not only have the best traditional Ameri- 2/46 Bolshoi Sadovaya can breakfasts, lunches, and dinners in town, M. Mayakovskaya they draw a daily crowd for early morning and FUSION lunchtime business meetings. Open 24 hours. 5 GQ BAR locations. EUROPEAN A warm, active hang-out for the elite just up from M. Pushkinskaya the Kempinski Baltschug Hotel. Partnership with CARRE BLANC Strastnoy Blvd. 8a, GQ magazine. Moscow’s top French restaurant. Try the bistro 989 44 61 5 Ulitsa Baltschug, 956-7775 and weekend brunch. M. Mayakovskaya M. Novokuznetskaya 9/2 Ul. Seleznevskaya, 258-4403 16 Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya, eng.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/ M. Novoslobodskaya 650-0246 SOHO ROOMS www.carreblanc.ru M. Oktyabrskaya Chef Laura Bridge mixes it up at this trendy BLACKBERRY 9a Ul. Korovy Val, restaurant-club along the embankment near Elegant but comfortable with an eclectic inter- 959-8919 Novodivichy Monastery. national menu: Asian, Russian, Italian, sushi and M. Universitet 12 Savinnskaya Nab., 988-7474 other cuisines. 6 Prospekt Vernadskovo, M. Sportivnaya 10 Academic Sakharov Prospekt 783-4037 www.sohorooms.com 926-1640, 926-1645 M. Polyanka M. Chistiye Prudy 16/5 Bolotnaya Ploshchad, CAFE DES ARTISTES 951-5838 HEALTHY Restaurant and bar offers fine European cuisine in www.starlite.ru JAGGANATH CAFÉ a relaxed atmosphere, often with recent artwork AMERICAN BAR & GRILL A simple but excellent vegetarian buffet with an on the walls of the upstairs room. This veteran Moscow venue still does good ham- eclectic mix of Asian and other dishes. 5/6 Kamergersky Pereulok, 692-4042 burgers, steaks, bacon & eggs and more. Open 11 Kuznetsky Most, 628-3580 M. Teatralnaya 24 hours. M. Kuznetsky Most www.artistico.ru 2/1/ 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya Ul, www.jagannath.ru GALEREYA 250-9525 LE PAIN QUOTIDIEN Trendy, lavish and expensive. The place to see and BEVERLY HILLS DINER Simple and healthy food and bakery at the Mos- be seen. The new kid on the diner block with a full range of cow extension of an international chain. Delivery. 27 Ulitsa Petrovka, 937-4544 American standards. Multiple locations. M. Pushkinskaya 1 Ulitsa Sretenka, 5/6 Kamergerski Pereulok, 649-7050 eng.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/ M. Chisty Prudy www.lpq.ru GRAND ALEXANDER HARD ROCK CAFÉ Named after poet Alexander Pushkin, this opulent For those longing to Americana, HRC's main asset is restaurant at the Marriott Grand Hotel is one of LATIN AMERICAN its great location on the Old Arbat overlooking the Moscow’s top French-European restaurants. busy pedestrian mall. The usual rock paraphernalia NAVARRO’S BAR & GRILL 26 Tverskaya Ulitsa, 937-0000 and a somewhat mediocre presentation of the HRC El Salvador born chef-owner Yuri Navarro excels M. Tverskaya standard menu. at everything from tapas to eclectic Peruvian- JEROBOAM 44 Stary Arbat, 205-8335 Mediterranean fusion, seafood to grilled meat. Ritz-Carlton’s Jeroboam, under the stewardship M. Smolenskaya One of Moscow’s few chef-owned restaurants. of celebrity German chef Heinz Winkler, offers “la www.hardrock.com 23 Shmitovsky Proezd, 259-3791 Cuisine Vitale” in the new building that replaced M. Mezhdunarodnaya the eyesore that was the Soviet-era Intourist Hotel. www.navarros.ru ASIAN 3 Tverskaya Ulitsa, 225-8888 OLD HAVANA M. Okhotny Ryad An amazing place, with a stunning Brazilian table- AROMA KAI RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE side show nightly from Thursday to Saturday. The Indian Restaurant Some of Moscow's best contemporary French food is good, but the highlight is the unbelievable Krizhizanovskovo Street 20/30, cuisine with an Asian touch from chef at Swissotel three-hour extravaganza with about two dozen M. Profsayousnaya Krasnye Holmy. dancers and capoiera performers. www.aromamoscow.ru 52/6 Kosmodamianskaya Nab, 221-5358 28 Ulitsa Talalikhina, 723-1656 +7(495) 543-54-26 M. Paveletskaya M. Proletarskaya TURANDOT EVERYDAY TERACE BY IMPERIA LOUNGE www.old-havana.ru Fabulous Asian food in a palatial and exquisite Due to its location in the Krasnopresnenskiy Park setting. The owners reportedly spent a mid-eight and sophisticated summer menu becomes a figure amount on the fit-out including a two mil- breath of fresh air in the hot Moscow days. ITALIAN lion dollar dim-sum kitchen. Try the Wasabi shrimp. Executive Chef Bruno Marino has developed a 26/5 Tverskoi Bulvar, 739-0011 menu with an emphasis on Mediterranean cuisine. ILFORNO M. Tverskaya, Pushkinskya Mantulinskaya Street house 5 bld 7, 790 74 00 Restaurant-Pizzeria 25 kinds of great tasty stone www.turandotpalace.ru www.everyday-terrace.ru oven baked Pizza. Great choice of fresh pasta and MR. LEE SCANDINAVIA risotto. Grilled meat and fish Fashionable and expensive Chinese from Novikov. The summer café is one of Moscow’s main after- 8/10 Build.1 Neglinnaya Ul. 7 Kuznetsky Most, 628-7678 work meeting venues. Excellent Scandinavian and (495) 621-90-80, (495) 621-35-41 M. Kuznetsky Most continental menu. www.ilforno.ru NE DALNY VOSTOK 19 Tverskaya Ulitsa, 937-5630 SEMIFREDDO MULINNAZO Passport’s 2009 number one Moscow restaurant. M. Pushkinskaya Sicilian chef Nino Graziano dishes up the best of Chef Glen Ballis turns out fabulous crab special- www.scandinavia.ru Sicily and the Mediterranean with the help of his ties, Asian, grill and salads. Come by when they SKY LOUNGE personal grill out front. Huge Italian wine list. bring in a big tuna. “Classny.” Dining on the roof of the Russian Academy of Sci- 2 Rossolimo Ulitsa, (499) 766-4646 15 Tverskoy Bulvar, 694-0641, 694-0154 ences offers guests unparalleled views of the city. M. Park Kultury M. Tverskaya 32a Leninsky Prospekt, 915-1042, 938-5775 www.semifreddo-restaurant.com http://eng.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/ M. Leninsky Prospekt MARIO www.skylounge.ru Delightful elegance and style with the best-qual- VANIL ity Italian dishes. Open noon to last guest. COFFEE AND PASTRIES Hip French and Japanese near the Cathedral of 17 Ulitsa Klimashkina, 253-6505 Christ the Savior. M. Barrikadnaya COFFEE BEAN 1 Ulitsa Ostozhenka, 202-3341 CIPOLLINO Jerry Ruditser opened the first coffee shops in M. Kropotkinskaya Coffee- and cream-colored stylish Italian cafe a Moscow, and still serves the best coffee. Smoke- eng.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/ stone’s throw from the Cathedral of Christ the Savior. free. Several locations. VOGUE CAFE 7 Soimonovsky Proyezd, 695-2936, 695-2950 56 Leningradsky Prospekt, 742-3755 Elegant, trendy partnership with Vogue magazine. M. Kropotkinskaya www.coffeebean.ru 7/9 Ul. Kuznetsky Most, 623-1701 www.cipollino.ru COFFEE MANIA M. Kuznetsky Most The Coffee Mania next to the Moscow Conserva- http://eng.novikovgroup.ru/estaurants/ tory is a popular daytime informal business venue. Open 24 hours. Several locations.

40 September 2011 Wine & Dining

GOODMAN JAPANESE RUSSIAN Moscow’s premium steak house chain. Numerous locations. KINKI CAFE PUSHKIN 23 Tverskaya Ulitsa, 775-9888 Authentic Japanese kitchen with amazing sea- A Moscow classic serving upmarket Russian M. Tverskaya, Pushkinskaya food delicacies like Tasmanian salmon, Mada- cuisine in a lavish, 19th century setting. Bustling, www.goodman.ru gascar shrimp and others. The range of Japanese ground-floor dining hall and a more sophisticated POLO CLUB drinks is extremely wide. You can taste true (and pricier) experience upstairs. Reservation Dining at its finest at the Marriott Aurora. Features Japanese sake – rice-based hot drink – which is essential. American prime beef and steaks. served in a special Japanese way. 26a Tverskoi Bulvar, 739-0033 Ulitsa Petrovka 11/20, 937-1024 11, Osennyaya Str., (495) 781-1697 M. Pushkinskaya, Tverskaya, Chekhovskaya M. Kuznetsky Most M. Krylatskoye GODUNOV TORRO GRILL www.kinkigrill.ru For real lovers of all things Russian, including The focus is on the best mid-priced meat in Mos- MEGU traditional Russian dancing, rivers of vodka and cow. Wine Bar. Several locations. The best Sushi in town is served here according to plates stacked with food in the Tsar’s chambers 6 Prospekt Vernadskogo, 775-4503 PASSPORT’s publisher John Ortega. Funky Korean from the time of Boris Godunov. M. Universitet décor and ambience. 5 Teatralnaya Ploshchad, 698-5609 www.torrogrill.ru Lotte Plaza Hotel Novinsky Bulvar 8 M. Teatralnaya M. Smolenskaya OBLOMOV +7 495 745 1000 Authentic Russian cuisine in a restored 19th BARS AND CLUBS NOBU century mansion. CUBA LIBRE BAR The Moscow branch of the legendary Nobu is 5 Monetchikovskyi Pereulok, 953-6828 The real island of freedom in suffocating space of a now open on Bolshaya Dmitrovka. Nobu moves M. Dobryninskaya dependent city. In the afternoon, at lunch-time, here directly to PASSPORT’s Moscow Top 10 list. YOLKI-PALKI it is possible to deal business, but at night you forget 20 Bolshaya Dimitrovka, 645-3191 A Russian chain that serves a great selection of about all and enjoy freedom, the real emotions, pas- M. Okhotny Ryad typical Russian specialties at modest prices. Many sionate dances and democratic prices for cocktails. www.noburestaurants.ru locations. M. Chistye Prudy; 17 Ulitsa Pokrovka, 624-07-18 ICHIBAN BOSHI 23 Bolshaya Dmitrovka, 200-0965 M. Kuznetsky most; 4 Kuznetsky most, 692-02-14 High-quality, affordable Japanese with cool ambi- M. Okhotny Ryad, Teatralnaya www.cubalibrebar.ru ence. Several locations. http://eng.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/ MARTINEZ BAR 22 Krasnaya Presnya Ulitsa, (499) 255-0909 Martinez Bar offers its guests a chamber setting M. Krasnopresnenskaya SEAFOOD and a cozy atmosphere without tobacco smoke 50 Ulitsa Bolshaya Yakimanka and the city hustle. During the day, Martinez Bar is M. Polyanka FILIMONOVA & YANKEL a comfortable location for a meeting (from 12:00 www.ichiban.ru You will find an outlet near many of the Goodman till 17:00 30% discout for the hole menu); during SEIJI steak houses. Very fresh fish and a straightforward the evenings, the Bar is an ideal place for cocktails. One of the few Moscow sushi restaurants that menu. Several locations. M. Chistye Prudy; 1 Ulitsa Sretenka, 760 81 92 actually has a Japanese chef, even a celebrity chef 23 Tverskaya Ulitsa, 223-0707 www.martinezbar.ru – Seiji Kusano, who also set up the O2 Lounge at M. Tverskaya, Pushkinskaya NIGHT FLIGHT the Ritz-Carlton. www.fishhouse.ru If you don’t know about Night Flight, ask some- 5/2 Komsomolsky Prospekt, 246-7624 LA MAREE body! Open 18:00-05:00 M. Park Kultury La Maree is Moscow’s number one seafood res- M. Tverskaya; 17 Tverskaya Ulitsa, 629-4165 taurant, built by Tunisian Mehdi Douss, owner of www.nightflight.ru CAUCASUS Moscow’s leading fresh seafood importer. PAPA’S 28/2 Ulitsa Petrovka, 694-0930 Master night spot host Doug Steele is back, at Pa- BAGRATIONI www.la-maree.ru pa’s tucked in the basement below Johnny the Fat Great Georgian food and entertainment in a styl- Boy Pizzeria. Papa’s features live music and lots of ish mansion near Novodevichy Monastery and the STEAKS sweaty young bodies and sweaty older men. Korean Embassy. M. Kitai-Gorod; 2 Myasnitskaya Ulitsa, 755-9554 EL GAUCHO 1/7 Spartakovskaya Ploshchad, 267-6881, 266-0531 ROCK’N’ROLL True Argentine menu. THE place for charcoal- M. Baumanskaya Rock’n’Roll bar offering visitors all popular dishes grilled meats and fish. BARASHKA and drinks, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. In the 4 Ul. Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya, 699-7974 Our Azerbaijanian friends swear it’s the best Azeri afternoons we are a quiet place for business M. Mayakovskaya restaurant in town. lunch, and at night we are a cheerful and rampant 6/13 Ul. Zatsepsky Val, 953-2876 20/1 Petrovka Ulitsa, 200-4714,M. Kuznetsky Most bar where it is possible to take pleasure with M. Paveletskaya 21/1 Novy Arbat, M. Arbatskaya freshening cocktails while listening to dj sets. 3 Bolshoi Kozlovsky Pereulok, 623-1098 http://eng.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/ M. Chistye Prudy; 1 Ulitsa Sretenka, 233 76 97 M. Krasniye Vorota www.rocknrollbar.ru www.elgaucho.ru BELOYE SOLNTSE PUSTYNI SECRET BAR CHICAGO PRIME Named after White Desert Sun, one of the USSR’s In July Secret bar has slightly opened the doors Steakhouse & Bar favorite films. An eclectic Central Asian menu that and has ceased to be one of the most secret Chicago Prime Steakhouse, is the best of Chicago includes Azerbaijan and Uzbek cuisine. places of Moscow. in downtown Moscow. U.S.D.A Prime steaks, a wide 29 Ul. Neglinnaya, 625-2596, 200-6836 Cosy atmosphere of house parties, tasty meal, choice of seafood, valued priced wines, unique spe- M. Kuznetsky Most, Teatralnaya good drinks and the pleasant prices remain at cialty cocktails and stylish interior will take you into http://eng.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/ former level, and here possibility to get to a bar is an atmosphere of casual elegance and exceptional received by all interesting inhabitants of capital. cuisine. Happy Hours daily from 5 pm till 8 pm 6 bld. 3 Pereulok Stoleshnokov, 921-07-50 Strastnoy Blvd. 8a, 988 17 17 M. Teatralnaya www.chicagoprime.ru www.secretbar.ru

NOTE: For restaurants with multiple locations the most popular location is given – see the website for others. All phone numbers have city code 495 unless otherwise indicated. Reservations suggested for most restaurants.

September 2011 41 Advertisement 4 Fashion n sit. epk hsoial has historically Bespoke shirts. and suits custom-made wearing be surely would majority the together, gathered men dressed best world’s the of dred hun one If car. the first own your of behind wheel slipping of thrill the with compared be could that thrill tions—a sensa dressing in ultimate the simply tailoring. individual of art finest the choose ways you. with comfortable feel colleagues and clients employer, your makes what it’s everything; isYour image wardrobe. their by judged are people world, ness The is simple fact that true. in and out of the busi absolutely is this and sion,” impres first a make to chance second a get don’t “you saying old the know als profession business Most successful. being to step first the is success a like looking manager, PR star’s rock a or er Sartorial Art 2 lpig no cso-ae ut is suit custom-made a into Slipping al perfection for strive who Those you Whether are bank a conservative September 2011September ------uuy n eeac wl eetal ar eventually will elegance and luxury heightsof thereach toaspire who men different today. no its and tailor a a been dialogue man between and his always has there rich the to stars movie from dandies, to royals the Style—from of Men of language common the been this has not changed today. and tailors, professional of services the stars and entrepreneurs have always used card for gentleman. Kings and aristocrats, orderclothes have always been visitinga made-to- that shown has Historytailor. personal your with dialogue aestablish finement elegance. and this, For willyou re heighten to serve only clothes your on initials sewn Hand style. and luxury yourexternalwitha imbueimageitand made especially for you will only enhance Clothes clothing. custom-made to tion produc mass beyond go to want they realisethatthey where point the at rive In ascending the fashion ladder, gentle You will walk with confidence know confidence with walk will You - - - - - has been one of the most respected respected most the of one been has you. will so importantly, more but Others will see the differenceright away, selection. off-the-rack any in find never could but wanted always you way the details the of all with you, for just made were wearing are you clothes the ing every right to be proud of. proud rightto be every have will you which tailoring, of piece master a acquire to chance unique a tailors. by aprofessional measured prefer,get you cut the and style fabrics, the choose - Fashions Executive at ing world. the around businesses textile and tailors prestigious most the to rics fab quality top of supplier recognized highly the Scabal, from tailors fessional pro with meet to opportunity unique a organising is Fashions Executive ber, ists anywhere in the world. ex it like exactly garmentother individual, no and one for made is produced garment every and each that knowing taken is prideuniqueness.Great and ity an opportunity to express his individual customer of each give tailors Fashions ofthe mass production world, Executive pace fast theDespite detail.minor each attentiontocreategivengarmentswith tonow hard days. find is very which fabrics, quality and hand-tailoring, superior meticulous with identified ing, cloth tailored custom men’s in names For over 25 years Executive Fashions Executive years 25 over For “Scabal Days” in Executive Fashionsis Executive in Days” “Scabal tailor bespoke of pleasures the Enjoy On the 16th, 17th and 18th of Septem ExecutiveFashions professional tailors www.executivefashions.ru Malaya Dmitrovka 8 Dmitrovka Malaya Tel: (495) 785-21 36 Executive Fashions Executive P ------

Puzzle page Compiled by Ross Hunter September Art Celebration Jeremy Clarkson, of Top Gear fame, once claimed nobody could name two Russian artists. Passport readers know better of course, thanks to Olga’s erudite and entertaining articles, and more. Here are copies of four of the most famous works and artists, probably in most people’s top ten favourites. Enjoy! As this is a puzzle page, I have mixed up the artists’ and paintings’ names and dates. Nothing too hard to match up. Hint for Jeremy, if you read this: I have included a Kandinsky, so even you should score at least one.

Zinaida Serebriakova 1878 St Basil’s Cathedral Aristarkh Lentulov 1923 Transverse Line Vassily Polenov 1909 At the Dressing Table Vassily Kandinsky 1913 Moscow Courtyard

Back-to-School Word Search W R C D H C N U L Can you find at least 29 school-related words, including subjects, parts of the day and opinions? Some of them are ob- I A O R E A E U I vious, but some are less easy or obviously school words. Hint: L O R A A L W A B every square is used. F O R M R M S S R How old is this puzzle? L I I A E L P P A Mr and Mrs Abacus have four children at school, Albert, Basil, Calamity and Zooloboogie, the youngest. Tell the parents how A F D C C O A T R old they are! 2 are even numbers, 2 are odd; their ages add up G E O G R A P H Y to 48. B is twice as old as Z; A was double C when Z was one. Two I T R T E R E A D of their ages are even numbers, 2 are prime numbers. C and Z together are 2 years older than A. All are whole numbers. G E O M E T R Y C

Mini Sudoku Answers to August puzzles Fill in 1-6 in each row, column and box. Word Search: The Seaside 2 6 5 Across - sandcastle puffin lee gull tides sing wave port jellyfish ball tide bass 3 stone seal; vertical - salt jetty wellie pedalo ebb yacht flipflops oil lion gun light- 3 house albatross; diagonal - fog pet boot spit sea lee eel path floss teal. 5 6 2 5 Mini Sudoku and full solutions at www.englishedmoscow.com 3 4 1

44 September 2011

Family Pages Clarice and the Hostage Ostrich A Brainy Ross Hunter, illustrated by Catherine Hunter Bird Tall “Now listen in, Clara, Celia and Emma! We’re going on a res- Tale cue mission. It’s a shocker, and it might get nasty. Get your camouflage plumage on. We meet in an hour.” (no.2) When Clarice calls her Gals, it’s an order. The ostriches and cousin Emma Emu were excited, curious and worried. Normally, Clarice says it’ll be as safe as houses, and there are war wounds to treat (and show off). So when she starts by promising some- thing nasty, the gals get nervous. rather plump, and the most rounded of the team. “All present? Roll call. Quack up: Clara, Celia, Emma? Good.” She had reason to worry, as we shall see. A bit unnecessary, the girls thought. Even a bird can count “But how are you going break in, and get the chickens out? to three. But with Clarice in sergeant–major mood, it’s best Farmers tend to have guns, and we are not exactly small targets.” not to chirp up. The others, even Clarice, gulped. This is quite a sight in a “Ahem... croaked Emma’s deep throat. And?” long-necked bird. “Ah! You’ve brought Cyd along. Easy to miss a four metre “We, Celia, we! Birds of a feather, stick together. Teamwork python. She could be useful, thank you Emma.” makes the impossible simple. Our feathered friends in the for- Cyd blushed a little, as they remembered her flying elastic est have agreed to help. I have got a spotter buzzard, an owl, antics catching the fat thief. if he can stay awake, some woodpeckers, pigeons and two “Now, where was I? I was out in the fields yesterday stretch- crows to help with the tricky bits. They have already stolen me ing my legs and getting some fresh air, when I smelled birds! a gate key. Let’s go! There’s not a moment to lose. If we delay, The eyes said cows and sheep, but the nostrils said feath- the chickens’ goose will be cooked.” ers. I followed my nose to a nasty grey barn surrounded by Clarice scrambles words like other people scramble eggs. But barbed wire, looking like a prison. I legged it over the wire she means well. and squeezed through a little door. It was horrible, gals: thou- “Good cluck!” sands of luckless chickens cooped up in cages. A wobble of ostriches, a snake, two hoodie crows and a buz- “We have to rescue them! If there’s one thing I can’t stand, zard set off with a brisk goose-step. Next to the nasty farm, they its picking on birds!” stood in the apple orchard, very still, with leaves over their feath- She sat down with a large hurrumph, pink around the gills, ers, and heads on the ground, looking like lollipop trees. Their eyes popping even more than usual. eyes were not buried, and watched the farmer all the time. Toe “Err, great idea,” said Celia, thinking the opposite. Celia was nail by toenail they edged forward, nearer and nearer. When the best educated and brightest bird, wise enough not to the farmer went round the back, they rushed in. Clarice had the twitter like the others. She thinks before doing, which is un- crows’ key, and opened up. Emma and Cyd chased the guard usual nowadays. She also nibbles while she thinks, so she is dogs into a shed and shut them in. Clara and Celia ripped open the barn doors, and ran through, flinging the cages open. “This way, chickens,” yelled Clarice, and a tumult of fright- ened, fluffy, wide eyed birds staggered into the sunlight. They streamed out of the farm and into the safety of the woods. Clarice led, Emma and Clara escorted. Cyd and the buzzard kept a very careful eye on each other, Cyd hissing and the buzzard mewing. Two pheasants flew in circles overhead, like vultures. Two fox cubs (Sasha and Boris, since you ask) and a ferret (I don’t know his name, perhaps you do?) kindly offered to help, but were politely invited to clear off. So far so good, except I’ve missed Celia. Suddenly, the two crows (they are twins, Hamish and Ewan) raced to the front with terrible news: “Celia has been captured! The farmer has trapped her—she was too wide to fit through the end door!” The chicken convoy carried on to the woods with Clara and

46 September 2011 Family Pages

Emma, while Clarice went back to the farm. Celia could not be seen but the farmer was standing with a gun in one hand and a loudspeaker in the other. “Ahoy there, you scrawny necked oversized turkey!” He was not very polite, by farmers’ standards. Clarice bristled. “If you are looking for your sister, she’s inside. My, she’s a big girl— lots of meat on her. Listen, bird-brain: get my chickens back,

thing was quiet. Too quiet. First he got fidgety, then scratchy, dozy, irritable and panicky. The moon hid. An owl hooted. Celia heard it and started screeching and kicking her cage. The dogs went mad and barked and howled. The farmer went inside and shouted at Celia, who pecked him, and kicked his dogs, who bit him. His shotgun went off and scrattled the roof. With a bigger bang, everything went black, including the floodlights outside. Six woodpeckers are handy if you want to chop a wooden elec- tricity pole. A riot in the dark. The owl dive-bombed the farmer’s hat. The three free big birds made a dreadful din, drumming and rattling the walls, and the crows harried the dogs. Cyd slid under the door, opened Celia’s cage, and for good measure tripped up the farmer. He fell face first in an awful lot of awful bird manure. The pigeons added to it. They left him there. Safely home, they partied. Feathers flew. “Welcome back, Celia,” said Clara, “and thank you Clarice— we did some good today. But it was a bit too exciting.” “Come now, girls. As I always say, if you don’t stick your neck out, you won’t win the race! Be proud birds. Remember: no quills, no thrills!”. P or your mate gets the chop. She will be chops and steak by sunrise unless you cough up the chicks.” Clarice was scared but furious. “Don’t count your chickens, mister!” she whispered to herself. She joined the others for a war council. “If there’s one thing I hate, it’s kidnappers! Nobody takes an ostrich hostage, especially not our Celia.” “But what can we do?” cried Clara. “Are we going to send the chickens back?” “No chance. Give me a moment. Let me have a butcher’s at the situation.” “What? Is that Cockerel rhyming slang again?” asked a puz- zled python. “Sorry, yes: butcher’s hook = look!” “That’s it! Got it! Clarice suddenly scratched and pecked out a new battle plan in the soil for the feathered few. Night fell. The farmer and his dogs kept a wary watch. Every-

September 2011 47 View From the Cliffs The Moral Aspects of Rioting and Looting in the Misty Isles

Anth Ginn The dollar is shaking and reaching for its gun, the euro trem- Last Friday I sat down to write my column for PASSPORT, bling and reaching for the parmesan while the pound is groan- telling English-speaking, tax-dodging, ex-pats and fugitives ing drunkenly, reaching for the remote control. As the Mexican from justice, hiding out in Moscow, what’s happening in the child said towards the end of Terminator, “A storm is coming.” sleepy old UK. Nothing was happening. There was nothing Cameron and Milliband are both hammering their lecterns, to report. Britain was dozing on the beach, after a lunchtime lecturing us on the evil of grabbing a pair of trainers through pint, towel over head, tabloid fluttering gently at the feet. a broken shop window, or the pitfalls of stealing a mobile Then three weeks ago, the London Police shot dead Mark phone. Telling us how this type of behaviour will not be toler- Duggan, an unarmed, 29 year old black man from the Broad- ated. Cameron said, “We need a criminal justice system that water Farm Estate in Tottenham, North London. Mark, father scores a clear and heavy line between right and wrong.” of four, was shot in the chest and arm. Broadwater was the It’s a pity he doesn’t know the difference between right and scene of riots in 1985, when black woman, 49 year old Cynthia wrong himself. Jarrett died when police burst into her flat. This was after riots in Brixton, the previous week, following the shooting of an- other black woman, Dorothy “Cherry” Groce, during a police “What do we want?” “A pair of size 9 search. Nike Dunk High Hyp Premium iD Men’s A protest march against the shooting grew into two trainers.” nights of rioting in Tottenham. Then the rioting spread to “When do we want them?” other parts of London and the UK. By the time the riots left the borough, they had changed. Mark Duggan was no lon- “Now”. ger the issue. A more important agenda involved getting new trainers and mobile phones, or for the female rioters, the latest autumn lines from TK Max. Rioting quickly be- During the week of the trainer riots, an incident, took place came looting. in Libya, which barely made the national news. It was buried People are rioting all over the world, for economic justice, by reports of broken shop windows and mobile phone theft. equal rights, freedom of expression, democracy, an end to rac- NATO jets, under the orders of our moralising Christian, ism. But in the UK it’s embarrassing, social disorder is an excuse politicians, bombed a couple of buildings in Zlitan, Libya, and to go shoplifting. To hell with the vote and free education. killed 85 civilians, including 33 children. The justification for “What do we want?” “A pair of size 9 Nike Dunk High Hyp our war on Libya was to establish a “no-fly” zone to protect Premium iD Men’s trainers.” civilians from being bombed. So what the hell’s going on in “When do we want them?” Cameron’s private little war? As with Iraq and Afghanistan, “Now”. they haven’t thought it through. The politicians were horrified, and rushed back from holiday Imagine the media coverage if Libyans had bombed and to appear on TV saying what awful, immoral, unacceptable killed 33 British Christian children. But because this atrocity people the rioters were and how they would be punished. was carried out by the RAF, under the orders of Cameron, Their crimes against humanity would not be tolerated. Several there was no film of grieving relatives, no interviews with the senior police officers displayed their lack of media savvy and bereaved parents and children, and there will be no anniver- looked complete idiots on TV, sounding like a WW2 propa- sary this time next year. We’ve run out of grief and morality, ganda film, they came out with corny platitudes like, “We have at the same time. your photographs. We know who you are. You have been very, Nobody is mourning the deaths of 33 Libyan children in the very naughty. We will hunt you down, no matter how long it UK. Our tears were shed for the loss of a few JD Sports shop takes. We will come round to your house and arrest you and windows, and the theft of a few hundred mobile phones from send you to prison for thousands of years. See how cool you Carphone Warehouse. look with your hood up when you’re in prison, getting raped in And unfortunately our politicians are clean out of morality the shower by Mr Big. Ha ha ha ha...” again. Which is a shame, because I’d like Mr Cameron to mor- Londoners, who are well aware that the police don’t even ally justify a war nobody wants, asked for or provoked, which come round to your house if you phone and say, “There’s a is costing billions we don’t have, and is draining resources burglar in the bedroom right now,” laughed back. which we badly need at home. How does he justify twisting After recent the revelations about them kissing Rupert a UN resolution to establish a no-fly zone, into a mandate for Murdoch’s arse, fiddling their expense claims, the dishonesty bombing innocent civilians? involved in going to war in Iraq, and the mysterious insanity Or maybe it’s about oil again, and Cameron is using the op- of attacking Libya, they needed to regain some moral high portunity of a riot to grab a few cans, through the broken win- ground. Although when you’re being swept towards the sea dow of the petrol station, and run home before the police ar- P in an open sewer, any kind of ground will do. rive—which could be weeks.

48 September 2011 Book Review Oli and the Forty Garkhs

Ian Mitchell sentation gadget. For slightly more you Older readers will remember “samiz- can get it published on a print-to-order dat”, a Soviet-era practice whereby writ- basis in hard-copy. On 22 June this year it ers of unpublishable books circulated was announced that an American crime them unofficially in typescript, often by writer called John Locke was the first getting anyone who read one to type it person to sell a million copies of a book out again, making a further five carbon through Kindle alone. This is nothing like copies while doing so. With Xerox ma- the old, embarrassing vanity publishing chines under lock and key, that was viral operations of yestercentury. marketing, USSR-style. So what has Stephen Dewar got to tell Now that capitalism has come to Rus- us which the Hello!-reading dolly-brains Garkhov’s Diary sia, we have more copiers and printers of the modern publishing industry have Stephen Dewar than we can make sensible use of. Not not yet woken up to? By a nudge-nudge only that, books can be disseminated process he acquired the private diaries Amazon-Kindle £6.44 through the internet. And if a stray type- of a Russian nouveau riche, called Oleg script were to survive from the Second (“Oli”) Garkhov for much of 2004. His baroque”, which lasted from the time of Age of Man, we could instantly run it book is an edited collection. This is a fla- the 1998 default to the 2008 crash, and through an Optical Character Reader, vour of their content: which, in the class to which Oli Garkhov word processor and spell-checker be- “One of my private lines rang. A strange belongs, featured bumptiousness, con- fore sending it off to a commercial pub- man said, ‘I represent your wife, Natasha. ceit, arrogance, ignorance and anti-social lisher anywhere in the world. You would We know you murdered her bodyguards extremes of wealth. Oli’s problem is that think that makes it easier to get mate- in a vicious attempt to frighten and in- he fails to understand why these quali- rial published than it was in Soviet times. timidate her. You’re in deep trouble. Now, ties, especially the last, do not endear WRONG! The story of Stephen Dewar’s make a sensible offer or else you know him to the societies he aspires to belong book is an interesting illustration of the what to expect.’ I nearly fell off my chair to, particularly upper-crust Britain. fact that capitalism has its own controls. with horror, but, as is my extraordinary Dewar deftly illustrates his hero’s lack Stephen is an old Moscow hand, who custom, I quickly recovered. ‘Don’t be of savoir faire when he goes grouse- will be known to many PASSPORT read- stupid,’ I quavered. ‘It was the police who shooting. After spending £100,000 on ers. He sent his manuscript out to a range killed Natasha’s thugs. It was nothing to a pair of Holland and Holland guns, Oli of publishers and received universally do with me!’ But the man said, ‘On the writes this in his diary: negative replies, probably because they contrary, it’s the police who saw you do “17 August: We flew into a place called did not read it. Publishers today depend it. I have seven signed eyewitness state- Edinburgh, which Boris assured me was in on literary agents to undertake that un- ments from police officers proving you Scotland. I just hoped nobody was there palatable, pre-Murdoch chore. Books? did it.’ I believed him. You can buy any- to see we had only a Boeing 737 and not Who’s interested in books? Not publish- thing in Russia, especially the police.” a 797 or 888 or whatever my useless Swiss ers: they are interested in business, and Oli Garkhov circulates in a world peo- banker is supposed to be getting for me.” preferably show-business. pled by Khodorkovsky, Berezovsky, Guz- The reader is left wondering why a My literary agent, in London, once told insky, Vekselberg, Potanin, Abramovitch man so obsessed with showing off me that anything she submits to a pub- and all the other Russians who might should arrive in Scotland five days after lishing house is assessed by a 26-year feature in Hello! He sends his son to Eton, the opening of the grouse season. Of old girl who would prefer to be look- of course, communicates with Putin on course nobody will be there to see his ing at Hello! magazine. So how does a the subject of his re-election, and has his wimpy little Boeing 737: they will all be modern author with something original girl-friend’s poodle fed to his dobermans back home in Herefordshire or Oxford- to say get published? The answer is: do after she gets bored of it and removes shire, leaving only healthy, high-flying exactly what Stephen Dewar has done the diamond-studded collar. birds for the Irish building contractors, and use Amazon, which now has a self- Dewar skillfully creates a picture of Cockney property developers and bet- publishing division called CreateSpace. a man who wants to dominate people ter-off friends of the keepers to shoot. For a fee of about $50, you can get your around him but does not know how to What on earth is the point of sending own title formatted for publication and do so, other than by spending money. your son to Eton if he can’t keep you advertised on Amazon’s web-site for sale This is an interesting evocation of the right on grouse-moor etiquette? You can through Kindle, the paper-free book pre- period that might be called “post-Soviet buy anything in Britain except class. P

September 2011 49 Distribution list

Restaurants & Bars Starbucks Belaya Ploschad Metropol Coca Cola Adriatico Starbucks Galereye Airoport Mezhdunarodnaya 2 Crown American Bar&Grill, Zemlyani Val 59 Starbucks Druzhba National Hotel DHL American Bar&Grill, 1st Tverskaya- Starbucks Dukat Novotel Moscow Centre Direct Approach Yamskaya 2/1 Starbucks Zbezdochka Pokrovky Hills Dr Loder Aroma Starbucks Zemlyani Val Radisson Slavyanskaya, + sport club Ernst & Young BeerHouse Starbucks Kamergerski Sheraton Palace Est A Tet Agency Bookafe Starbucks MDM Swissotel Krasnye HOLMY Expat Salon 1 & 2 Buddies Starbucks Metropolis 1 Zolotoye Koltso Four Squares Cafe des Artistes Starbucks Metropolis 2 Starbucks Embassies General Electric Cantinetta Antinori Metropolis Business Plaza Australia General Motors CIS Che Starbucks Moscow City Austria Halliburton International, Inc. Chicago Prime Starbucks Pokrovka Brazil HSBC China Dream Starbucks Sokolniki Delegation of the European IBM Coffee Bean, Leningradsky Starbucks Festival Commission to Russia Initiative Media prospect 58 Starbucks Chetire Vetra Embassy of Canada International SOS Coffee Bean, Pyatnitskaya 5 Starbucks Shuka Denmark Jack’s ZAO Cuba libre bar Starbucks Academiya Plekhanova Finland JAL Tverskaya Yamskaya Cutty Sark Starbucks Arbat 38 Germany JCC Jewish Community Eat and Talk Starbucks MEGA Belaya Dacha Hungary Jones Lang LaSalle Everyday terrace Starbucks MEGA Tyepli Stan Ireland Le Meredian Moscow Country Club Gandhara Starbucks MEGA Khimki Indonesia Levine Bridge Gorki Starbucks Severnoe Siyaniye Italy LG Electronics Nestle Rossiya LLC Hard Rock Cafe / Хард Рок Кафе Starbucks Tulskaya Japan P&G Hot dogs (бывший Doug& Martin’s Starbucks Sheremetyevo Kuwait Penny Lane Realty Boar House) Starbucks Gorod Stolits Malaysia Philips Russia Il Forno, Neglinnaya 1 Starbucks Ashan Troika Mexico PricewaterhouseCoopers / PWC Il Forno, Ostojenka 3/14 Starbucks Belyaevo New Zealand Pulford Il Patio, Novinski 31 Strarbucks “Europeyskiy” Peru Renaissance Capital Il Patio, Leninsky 68/10 Shopping Mall Philippines Reuters Ltd Il Patio, Prospekt Mir 33 Starbucks Krasnoselskaya Poland Royal Bank of Scotland ZAO Il Patio, Trubnaya Ul Starlight Diner, Portugal Ruslingua Il Patio, Pushkinskaya 5 Bolshaya Sadovaya 10 Slovakia Russo-British Chamber of Commerce Il Patio, 1st Tverskaya Yamskaya 2 Starlight Diner, South Africa SCANDINAVIA Restaurant John Donne Prospect Vernadskogo 6 South Korea Sport Line Club Katie’s Pub Starlight Diner, Korovi Val 9 Spain Sportland Kostya Coffee, Vavilova 3 Starlight Diner, Bolotny Ploschad The Netherlands United Airlines LIGA PUB, Skromnoe obayanie 16/5 Singapore Wimm Bill Dann Louisiana Steak House T.G.I. Friday’s, Tverskaya Sweden Schwartzcopf & Henkel Luce T.G.I. Friday’s, Novoslovobodskaya 3 Thailand Усадьба Агентство Недвижимости Mario’s T.G.I. Friday’s, Zemlyanoi Val 33 Tunisia Work Service Martinez bar T.G.I. Friday’s, Komsomoloski Propsect 28 UAE OOO Checkpoint Russia Mia Florencia T.G.I. Friday’s, Kievski Vokzal 2 USA Medical Centres Molly Gwynn’s, Krasnaya Presnaya 1-7 T.G.I. Friday’s, Bolshaya Tulskaya 13 UK American Clinic Molly Gwynn’s, Novy Arbat 24 T.G.I. Friday’s, Novy Arbat 14 Business Centres American Dental Center Molly Gwynn’s, Pyatnitskaya 24 Business Center Degtyarny Tapa de Сomida American Medical Center Nedalni Vostok Business Center Mokhovaya Tiflis European Dental Center Navarro’s Business Center Znamenskoe Uzbekistan EMC, Spiridonevsky 5 Night Flight Daev Plaza Uley / Correas EMC, Orlovsky Per. 7 Old Havana Club Ducat Place 2 Vanilla Sky Medincentre Pancho Villa Japan House Vesna Tibet Clinic Papa’s Meyerkhold House Education Yapona Mama Petit Cref Mosalarko Plaza American Inst. of Business and АИСТ( Stork) Pizza Express Moscow Business Center Economics Цветение Сакуры Pizza Maxima Mosenka JSC Anglo-American School of Moscow / Hotels Республика Суши Novinsky Passazh Англо-Американская школа Akvarel Hotel Moscow 911 Club Olympic Plaza British Higher School of Design Ararat Park Hyatt Rock’n’Roll bar Park Place British International School, Balchug Keminski Moscow SCANDINAVIA Restaurant Romanov Dvor B. Academicheskaya 24 East-West Seiji / Сейджи Samsung Centre British International School, Nakhi- Holiday Inn, Lesnaya 15 movsky Prospect 35 Secret bar Companies/Associations English International School Shafran Holiday Inn, Sushevski Val 26 7 Красок Little Angels Kindergarten Shamrock Iris Business Centre American Center Montessori School Shanti Katerina-City Hotel American Chamber of Commerce The International School of Moscow Sirena Restaurant Lotte Hotel American Express Others Silvers Irish Pub Marriott Hotels / Марриотт Аврора AEB Anglican Church Starbucks 5th Avenue Marriott Hotels / Марриотт Гранд Astravel Golds Gym Starbucks Atrium Marriott Hotels / Марриотт Тверская British Council NB Gallery Starbucks Balchug Maxima Irbis Maxima Zarya Citi Bank

50 September 2011 September_covers.indd 2 23.08.2011 13:51:03 MOSCOW

SEPTEMBER 2011 www.passportmagazine.ru

What Makes Russians happy? Moscow’s The Moscow Metro Best Restaurants

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September_covers.indd 1 23.08.2011 13:57:29