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TUNE YOUR RIG FOR OUTRIGHT SPEED

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors 2

I‘ve done a LOT of sailing in the Farr 30. It’s an exciting, yet simple boat to sail... quick in light air and certainly a handful in a breeze. The Farr 30 is a boat that was ahead of it’s time, and we’ve always been excited about this well-organized class of owner-driven boats.

At North Sails, we’re proud to have been involved with the Farr 30 from the inception. We have worked hard to develop sails that will deliver the speed you need to win and the durability you need to keep winning, season after season. We’ve also prepared this Farr 30 Tuning Guide to help you get your boat and crew competitive fast. Use it... it works!

Ken Read President North Sails Group

Contents Updates Pg. 3 Deck Layout Pg. 4 Setting Up the Rig North Sails is constantly refining tuning techniques Pg. 7 Tuning Chart and rig settings as we and our Pg. 8 Mainsail customers gain experience Pg. 9 Jib in individual classes. This information is shared among Pg. 10 Asymmetric Spinnaker North staff worldwide. While Pg. 11 Symmetric Spinnaker this Tuning Guide provides a giant step toward achieving Pg. 12 Light Air Sailing competitive speed in your Pg. 13 Medium-Heavy Air Sailing class, be sure to contact your Pg. 14 Tacking North representative about the latest Farr 30 tuning Pg. 15 Gybing the Asymmetric Spinnaker developments. Pg. 16 Gybing the Symmetric Spinnaker Pg. 17 Tips and Techniques Pg. 18 Original VPP

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors 3

Deck Layout Deck plan drawing supplied courtesy of Bruce Farr & Associates, Inc. and Farr International.

Bobstay Foreguy

Headsail Inhauler

Spinnaker Tweaker

Headsail Sheet

Spinnaker Guy

Spinnaker Sheet

Backstay

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors 4

A

B

C

Setting Up the Rig The challenge and fun of One Design A = 3,305mm (10’ 10-1 ⁄8”) racing begins with having your boat Distance from the headstay PIN/fore face optimized for top performance. To get of the mast without spinnaker pole track. the best out of your new Farr 30, first be sure the rig is in the center of the boat. B = 3,440mm (11’ 3-7⁄ 16”) Then you can set mast rake, forestay and Measurement from the forward bolt of backstay length, and set the tension on the stemhead fitting to the forward side the cap shrouds and diagonals. of the mast above the mast plate.

Center the Rig C = 1,070mm, may vary 15mm (3’ 6-1 ⁄8” Forward bolt • Use a tape measure on the centerline may vary 19⁄ 32”) at stem head halyard from the hounds to the Distance from mast foot to fore bulkhead. chainplate pin centers. • Place a mark on the front center of Mast Partners: With the mast at the mast at the bottom spreader. maximum J, make sure the mast partners • From this point measure to the are secure. Avoid point-loading the mast chainplate pin centers. by spreading the load evenly around the spar. This provides two points to look through when gauging mast tune NOTE: All measurements are taken to the centerline of clevis pins, bolts, etc.

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors 5

Setting Up the Rig

Forestay There are two methods to measure the forestay length. Backstay Method 1 flicker • Pin-to-Pin: 12.20m (40’ 1/4”) • Send a crewmember up the mast with a (15m) 50’ tape measure. • Hold the end of the tape measure at the junction of the mast and T-ball fitting, measure down to the pin- center on the stemhead fitting. Method 2 • Take the Jib Halyard and raise to the BAS (top of the black band) at the gooseneck. • Swing an arc between the mast and the headstay. See A on drawing to the right. • Where the halyard intersects at the headstay, place a mark on the headfoil and measure to the center of the forestay pin at the stemhead fitting. B = 1.82m (5’11-5/8”)

NOTE: Use a Jib Halyard for accurate measurement. A Cap Shrouds B Once the mast is centered, adjust the forestay and the cap shrouds.

Using the RT10 Loos Gauge set the Caps (V) by adjusting both side equal amounts to #36. 1.82m (5'11-5/8") Headstay "Arc" Diagonals to forestay pin D2 Using the PT2 Loos Gauge set the D2s to #6. D1s Using the PT2 Loos Gauge set the D1s to Hand Tight.

Check that the Cap shrouds are still #36, and ease as necessary to stay at #36 on the RT10 Loos Gauge. This is your “base” tune.

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Mark #5 Mark #1 40.5cm-(16”) 22cm-(8”) Fig. 1

Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4

Setting Up the Rig Fig. 5 Backstay Adjustments jib leech through the spreader window The backstay purchase is the most in the main. To place accurate spreader important adjustment you have on a Farr marks, use white paint or tape to mark 30. In light air (5 knots), a general rule the lower spreader. Measuring from the of thumb is to have the bottom floating inside edge of the cap shroud, place your block 50mm (2”) below the top lifeline marks at the following intervals: (fig. 1). As the wind increases, more tension is applied to the backstay. 22cm (8”) 8cm (10”) 30.4cm (12”) Two things happen; a) the headstay 35.5cm (14”) 40.5cm (16”) 45.7cm (18”) straightens, b) the mast bends which depowers the rig. Inhaulers For accurate inhauler measurement, For maximum backstay adjust the the outside edge of the fairlead will be bottom floating block to 230mm (8”) or 467mm (18-3/8”) (measured from the two-blocked below the bottom lifeline aft face of the mast partners). From the (fig. 2). Keep the stern lifelines tight for inboard edge of the jib sheet, through the measuring this distance. inhauler block Fig. 1: Backstay no tension • Measure in 9cm (3-5/8”) Spreader Marks • Mark the line every 3cm (1-1/8”) until Fig. 2: Backstay strop attaches You can adjust headsail trim easily there are 7 marks. to upper floating block length: 2,070m (6’9-1/2”) by using spreader marks. Either the mainsheet trimmer or helmsperson Fig. 3, 4: Spreader Marks sitting on the weather rail can see the Fig. 5: Inhaler Marks

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Tuning Chart:

Adjustments (All full turns from BASE settings)

TWS Sail Selection Headstay V1 D1 D2

0-6 kts Li-3 -6 turns -2 turn -3 turn Base

7-8 kts Li-3 -4 turns -1 turn -1 turn Base

9-10 kts Li-3 / Mi-4 BASE BASE BASE BASE (Arc-1820mm) (36-RT10 Gauge) (Hand Tight) (6-PT-2 Gauge)

11-12 kts Mi-4 +4 turns +1 turn +1 turn Base (41-RT10 Gauge) (6-PT-2 Gauge) (6-PT-2 Gauge)

13-14 kts Mi-4 +8 turns +2 turn +1 turns Base

15-18 kts Mi-4 / Hi-2 +14 turns +3 turns +2 turns Base

19+ kts Hi-2 +20 turns +3 turns +2 turns Base

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors 8

Mainsail

Set-Up Medium Air: To maintain speed, play the Attach the mainsail onto the boom and traveler constantly. Ease the fine tune of place the tack slug in the mast. Attach the the mainsheet 150mm (6”) in the gusts. cunningham and secure the outhaul. The The boom should now be just below center clew is held securely to the boom with the line most of the time. Use moderate boom velcro webbing strap supplied with your vang, remembering to ease the vang at 3DL mainsail. the top mark. The outhaul should be firm so there is no sag to leeward of the boom. Trim Cunningham should be on 100mm (4”). Light Air: If your mainsheet trimmer is strong, you can remove the fine tune part Heavy Air: Keep the mainsheet close at of the mainsheet and trim off the coarse hand ready to ease. The boom will be eased part only. When sailing upwind in flat down to the cockpit wall (coaming), but water, the top telltale should be flicking (in be sure to play the mainsheet in the lulls and out behind the leech, vs. trailing. If the to maintain pointing. When the mainsail telltale is trailing, then the sheet is probably is sheeted to the max, there is slight eased too much.). Don’t be afraid to carry boom vang load. The outhaul should be the boom above the centerline with the tight, with a crease along the boom. The mainsail traveler car 228mm (9”) from the cunningham should be set to maximum. side of the cockpit. In choppy water, the top Be ready to ease the boom vang and telltale should be flowing all the time, with cunningham when rounding the top mark. the traveler dropped down 150mm (6”). The outhaul should be eased so there is 100mm (4”) of sag to leeward of the boom. The cunningham should be off.

Mainsail Trim

Light Medium Heavy

Boom/Traveler Above Center Just Below Center Ease to Coaming

Vang None Some Max

Outhaul 100mm sag Firm Max

Cunningham None 100mm Max

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Jib

Set-Up Medium Air: Some inhauler is required. 3DL/3Di headsails are supplied with a tack If the boat feels stalled, or the headsail is clip (snap hook) which is placed on the backwinding the mainsail, ease the inhauler bar directly behind the stemhead fitting. and/or sheet until the leech is at the (This allows enough adjustment in the second outside spreader mark. Take up the inhaulers.) Run the sheet through the forestay 25mm (1”) to tighten the headstay. inhaulers, through the aft lead block under The halyard should be firm with some the shockcord guide, then to the winch. wrinkles coming out of the headstay. It’s Use the port halyard and set in the port good to leave the jib halyard on the winch groove. You’ll be on starboard tack if you until it’s time to lead the spinnaker halyard need to set-up a headsail change. to the same winch at the top mark. You’ve already marked the inhaulers, (p. 6) refer to the table below for fast settings in Heavy Air: No inhauler required. If the boat various wind conditions and sea states. is stalled or the headsail is backwinding the mainsail, ease the inhauler and/or sheet Inhauler Trim until the leech is at the spreader tip. Take Light Air: Inhauler is required. If the boat up the forestay 50mm (2”) to tighten the feels stalled, ease the inhauler and/or headstay. The halyard should be tight with sheet so the leech is at the spreader tip. no wrinkles coming out of the headstay. Also, ease the forestay 25mm (1”) to loosen Again, it’s good to leave the jib halyard the headstay. Leave the jib halyard on a on the winch until its time to lead the winch for easy adjusting with increasing or spinnaker halyard and/or sheet to the same decreasing wind pressure. winch at the top mark.

Inbauler Setup

True Wind Inhauler Spreader Mark (Flat Water) Spreader Mark (Rough Water) Speed Mark Inboard #4, Outboard #1* Inboard #4, Outboard #1

0-5 #1 #3-4 #3

5-10 #2-3 #3-2 #3

10-15 #3-4 #2 #2

15-20 #5-OFF #2-1 #1

20-25 OFF Outside spreader tip Outside spreader tip

25-30 OFF Outside spreader tip Outside spreader tip

*For distance races: Install a padeye outboard, just aft of the chainplates. Attach a snatch block onto the padeye with the sheet leading to the cabin top winches.

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors 10

Asymmetric Spinnaker

The Farr 30 is a very fast, responsive boat. • Set the spinnaker pole up so it is We’ve found that small adjustments in 460mm (18”) above the deck and boat handling can enhance speed and sitting beside the headstay. overall performance. • Mark the point (black marker pen works well) where the guy is loaded Included is an additional section covering onto the cockpit winch. standard boat handling techniques such Fig. 6 as tacking, gybing and coordinating the The diagram above shows sheet and crew for optimum weight distribution in guy leads for the asymmetric spinnaker. varied sailing conditions. When gybing, be careful not to push the spinnaker pole through the mainsail Our techniques may differ slightly from or between the D1s and V1s where the the methods that you and your crew mainsail will gybe onto the exposed use. Your feedback is welcome, and we end. More information on boat handling encourage you to practice both ways, and and gybing are explained on page 12 of let us know what works best for you. this guide. Fig. 7

Setup Before You Dock: • Attach the guy to the headstay. • Run guy through the jaw of the spinnaker pole and attach the pole to the mast. Fig. 6, 7: Proper tack set-up

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors 11

Symmetric Spinnaker Sheets and Guys: • Run the spinnaker sheets through the • Install a piece of shockcord from the inhaulers (outside the lifelines), back to hounds to a small stainless ring that the corner spinnaker blocks (outside to the spinnaker halyard passes through. inside with the sheet), along the deck When the spinnaker halyard is cast- through the deflector blocks and up to off, the ring pulls the halyard to the the cabin top winches. mast preventing the halyard from • Run the guys aft through the guy getting stuck behind the top battens blocks outside the lifelines. This in the main. provides a better angle to the • Prevent spinnaker sheets and guys pole. The guys then lead under the from dragging in the water by placing spinnaker sheets, and under the a cleat on the edge of the cockpit by headsail sheet on the port side, behind the primary winch. the primary winch on the starboard • In moderate conditions (16 knots), the side to the cleats on the edge of the spinnaker luff should fly ‘straight’ or cockpit coaming below the winches. perpendicular to the pole. Use the guy The tails go down below through the fore and aft to position the spinnaker open window or into the tail bag. for max. speed. • You have a choice of three downwind • Always drop the spinnaker on the sails to choose from in the Farr 30 side of the boat where you intend to rules. A sail range chart on page 21 rehoist. Set the spinnaker out of the shows the overlap of all the sails in the front hatch unless there is a large inventory for various wind speeds and seaway running, preventing the hatch angles. A set of polars on page 23 are from opening without risk of flooding. also provided, courtesy of Bruce Farr and Associates, Inc.

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors 12

Light Air Sailing

Crew Weight When used effectively, crew weight is a powerful tool on any boat. In level racing and one design classes, the optimum distribution of crew weight can have a large impact on overall sailing performance. Besides keeping the boat on its feet, and reducing heeling angle, weight distribution can change the sailing characteristics of the boat. For the Farr 30, the optimum heel angle is 15-20°.

Sails When sailing upwind in light air • Have headsails flaked into the turtle, rolled up and tied. • Position sails around the base of the mast. • Place downwind sails forward on the bunks.

Sailing Tips: 1. Optimal windspeed for practicing asymmetric spinnaker gybing for the first time is 7-10 TWS. 2. When reaching with either asymmetric or spinnaker, be sure to ease the leeward inhaulers. 3. When adjusting sail trim, count the number of ratchet clicks, this helps to repeat fast settings.

Upwind: 0-7 Knots Position the crew forward and to leeward to induce heel or down below if seas are choppy. In puffy conditions, nominate one or two of your most agile crewmembers to be ‘moveable ballast.’ Adjust their body weight across the boat to maintain heel.

Reaching: 0-7 Knots Place some of the crew down below to leeward and/or the middle of the floor. The remaining crew are forward on the rail or around the leeward shroud. In light air, you shouldn’t sail directly downwind.

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Medium-Heavy Air Sailing Upwind In moderate airall the crew will be on the Sails rail. The first crewmember will be situated When sailing upwind in moderate air against the windward stanchion which is • Have the headsails flaked into their located 60cm (24”) back from the shroud. turtles, rolled up and tied. • Position sails forward around the In heavy air the crew should be hiking as floorboards. hard as possible, with one person sitting • Place downwind sails on the middle behind the helmsman. bunks. Reaching When sailing upwind in heavy air Consolidate the crew in the middle of the • Have the sails flaked, rolled in their boat, hiking as hard as possible. turtles and tied. • Position the sails aft behind the main In heavy air, the crew should be sitting hatch on each side of the steps. well aft and hiking hard.

Tips Sailing downwind, balance the crew • When the mainsail flogs upwind, the evenly across the boat. In heavy air, the center of balance is transferred to crew should be across the back of the the headsail. Adjust your helming boat, especially in steep seas. If sailing technique to account for this. Make deep angles, place the entire crew on the Fig. 8 sure that you have firm vang on. leeward rail. • When overpowered upwind, try easing the mainsheet 150mm (6”) on the fine tune adjustment. • If you feel that you are going slow, drop the traveler down, ease the backstay and mainsheet.

When you adjust the jib halyard, three things change: 1. head depth. 2. draft position. 3. vertical curvature.

When crewmembers shift their weight in response to puffs, do four things: 1. adjust outhaul. 2. adjust mainsheet. 3. adjust backstay. Fig. 9 4. adjust jibsheet.

When the boat is up to speed and sailing Fig. 8: Upwind, 13-22 knots comfortably, have the mainsheet trimmer Fig. 9: Running, 7-12 knots turn around and hike with legs positioned over the side.

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors 14

Tacking PREPARATION LIGHT AIR

1. Look ahead to be sure you will be sailing Bow: If sitting to leeward, roll tacks by in clear air after you tack. crossing to new weather side. If sitting 2. Load the weather headsail (new) sheet on the weather side, stays on the rail, onto the cockpit winch. Place three turns and leans over the rail to roll tack. on the winch and take-up the slack. 3. Be sure the weather sheet (new) is clear Trimmer: Casts off the headsail sheet, of the spinnaker sheets and leads over tails in the new side (alone). As the boat the pole, around the outside of the mast speed climbs, grinds sheet to final trim. and halyards. 4. Be sure the leeward headsail sheet is Mainsheet: May have to release clear to run. the topmast backstay to clear the 5. Try and tack in a smooth spot of water. mainsail leech. 6. If you have to dip a boat after you tack, make sure the mainsheet is ready to ease. Helm: Pushes the helm to leeward smoothly, centering the helm 3/4 TACKING SEQUENCE through the tack. Also, may have to flick the topmast backstay to clear the Step 1 mainsail leech. Helm: Gives the command to tack. MODERATE-TO-HEAVY AIR Trimmer: Comes off the rail, crosses cockpit to leeward side and uncleats the Bow: Cross the boat quickly and hike headsail sheet. your heart out! Mainsheet: Eases mainsheet fine tune Trimmer: After final trim, move up to 75mm (3”). the weather rail and hike.

Step 2 Mainsheet: Keeps the mainsheet in Helm: Pushes the helm to leeward hand, uncleated. Ease after the tack smoothly, centering the helm 3/4 to keep the boat on its feet. through the tack. Helm: Pushes the helm to leeward Trimmer: As the headsail is luffing, cast smoothly, centering the helm 3/4 off the old headsail sheet by casting the through the tack. Try not to bear off turns off the winch, cross the cockpit too much creating more heel, causing and grind in the headsail sheet. the boat to slide to leeward.

Tailer: Tails in new sheet from the weather side. Mainsheet: Uncleats old traveler line, picks up the new traveler line on the other side of the cockpit. Bow: Crosses the boat by going under the boom vang.

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors 15

Gybing the Asymmetric Spinnaker PREPARATION LIGHT AIR TIPS 1. Look behind your boat to be sure you Bow: Watches the sail to be sure sheets 1. Best times to gybe the asymmetric are: will have clear air after you gybe. run smoothly. the beginning of a puff, up the back of the wave and when the boat is going slow. 2. Load the weather asymmetric sheet Pit: Pulls in the bobstay as the boat turns, 2. When dropping the asymmetric always onto the cabin top winch. Place two until the luff of the asymmetric is tight. turns on the winch and take-up the pull the sail by the luff or the tack area. slack. Old Trimmer: Blows off asymmetric sheet 3. Be sure the weather sheet (new) is while still loaded, allowing the clew to fly around the inside of the asymmetric away from the boat (like a flag). Sets up and sitting on top of the spinnaker the guy on the marks around the cockpit pole, leading around the outside of winch once the pole is connected to the the forestay, between the sail and mast and trims the tack to the pole end. the headstay. New Trimmer: Tails the new asymmetric 4. The starboard guy is attached to sheet as fast as possible. the tack ring of the asymmetric. The bobstay and port guy are attached Helm: The helmsman controls the gybe. to the eye in the starboard guy snap Gybes are easiest when the apparent wind shackle on the outside of the forestay, speed is the highest. clear of the pulpit. This gets cleated. 5. Give the foreguy 600mm (2’) of slack LIGHT-TO-MODERATE so the bowperson can take the Step 4 spinnaker pole off the mast. Bow: Once clew is past the headstay on BASIC GYBING SEQUENCE the new leeward side, connects the new guy to the spinnaker pole, pushes the pole Step 1 out on the weather side of the headstay, New Trimmer is on the guy. Releases the connects to mast. guy quickly so the weight is taken up on Pit: Eases the bobstay out following the the bobstay. tack of the asymmetric to the pole end. Step 2 Then readjusts the bobstay once the pole is back from the headstay. Bow: 1. Releases the spinnaker pole from the mast. Old Trimmer: Eases out the asymmetric 2. Moves pole aft until the outboard end sheet until the clew is near the headstay, jaws are over the deck. holds the sheet until the slack is taken up 3. Trips guy out of jaws. by the new sheet, then releases and helps old sheet to run free. Sets up the guy on Step 3 the marks around the cockpit winch once the pole is connected to the mast and Pit: Tails in slack of the new sheet as the trims the tack to the pole end. asymmetric comes across the bow, hands off sheet to new trimmer. You can’t run New Trimmer: Trims the sail, easing the old sheet fast enough once the bow the sail to follow out to the pole, paying has passed 180°. attention to increasing speed by working with the helm for optimum sheeting angle. NOTE: Be careful not to push the spinnaker pole through the mainsail Step 5 or between the D1s and V1s where the Helm: Sails a slightly high course until the mainsail will gybe onto the exposed end. boat speed is optimum, then adjusts helm to sail to correct wind angle.

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors 16

Gybing the Symmetric Spinnaker

PREPARATION LIGHT-TO-MODERATE AIR 1. Look behind your boat to be sure you Sheet Trimmer: Quickly eases the old will have clear air after you gybe. sheet to the headstay while trimming the 2. Load the weather spinnaker sheet onto new sheet, then sets the inhaulers 1/2 way the cabin top winch. Place two turns on down, and eases sheet to the headstay the winch and take-up the slack. slowly while trimming in the new sheet. 3. Be sure the weather sheet (new) is Guy Trimmer: When the trip is called, on top of the spinnaker pole, leading quickly releases the guy from the winch, around the outside of the forestay. making sure the sheet trimmer has taken 4. Make sure the spinnaker inhaulers are up the new sheet. Changes to the new set for the existing wind pressure. side of the cockpit to tail new guy with 2 5. The lazy guy should be off and ready to turns around the winch once the spinnaker go forward (Bow). pole has been connected to the mast. 6. Give the foreguy 600mm (2’) of slack so Helm: The helmsman controls the gybe. the bowperson can take the spinnaker The helmsman turns the boat when the pole off the mast. clew is near the headstay. The turn should be smooth maintaining medium speed BASIC GYBING SEQUENCE coming out of the optimum VMG angle. Full rotation of the spinnaker is key to a Step 1 light air gybe. Pit: Releases the foreguy as the spinnaker Step 4 pole is trimmed aft as the boat turns down. Bow: Moves aft to the new leeward side Guy Trimmer: Trims the pole aft. and collects the new lazy guy ready for Step 2 another gybe. Sheet Trimmer: Takes up on the new Pit: Sets the inhaulers 1/2 way down, and spinnaker sheet before the spinnaker pole eases sheet to the headstay slowly while trip is called. Eases the old spinnaker sheet trimming the new sheet. out to the headstay, while tailing in on the Sheet Trimmer: Trims the sail, paying new spinnaker sheet, as the boat is turned. attention to increasing speed by working Step 3 with the helmsman for optimum sheeting angle. Bow 1. Has the new (lazy) guy in hand ready to Step 5 place into pole. Helm: Sails a slightly high course until the 2. Trips guy out of jaws. boat speed is optimum, then adjusts helm 3. Releases pole from mast and connects to sail to correct wind angle. lazy spinnaker guy, pushes pole out and forward underneath spinnaker sheet TIPS and attaches to the mast again. The best times to gybe the spinnaker are: Pit: Eases foreguy 150mm (6”). 1. The beginning of a puff Releases spinnaker tweaker all the way 2. Down the front of a wave 3. When the boat is going fast

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors 17

Tips and Techniques

PREPARATION • Keep a disposable camera onboard. • When you hit a velocity header, let You can build up a library of fast sail the boat glide to weather until the shapes to study later. new target speed is suited to the new wind speed. • Warmer waters encourage bottom growth, make sure the bottom is • If you are forced to sit below in light cleaned just before every race. air, make sure you have a good newspaper and cookies! • Keep a toolkit onboard. Include an adjustable wrench, vise grips, • Back down 6 minutes before the start screwdriver(s), serrated edged knife, of the race. and rigging tape so you can change the tension on the diagonals • Use Kevlar or Spectra for jib inhaulers. between races. • In moderate air, try cross-sheeting • Between races, always check that the the jib. mast partners are still in place. • Keeping the crew on the rail is a • Use a piece of shockcord to hold down number one priority. the tack slug on the gooseneck fitting. • Keep the spinnaker within easy reach, • Add a retainer bracket across the attach a sail tie to the spinnaker bag top of the traveler cleat to hold the and duct tape to the main hatch. traveler line. • Below 8 knots of wind, don’t be • Install a piece of shockcord from the afraid to carry the main boom above hounds to a small stainless ring that the centerline. the spinnaker halyard passes through. When the spinnaker halyard is cast- • Prevent spinnaker sheets and guys off, the ring pulls the halyard to the from dragging in the water by placing mast preventing the halyard from a cleat on the cockpit edge by the getting stuck behind the top battens primary winch. in the main. • Cover the outboard end of the top • If the jib hits the spreaders in heavy batten with stickyback. This helps the air, use the forward luff groove. backstay clear the mainsail in light air.

• Install a spreader window in the main • Sight up the back of the mast when for easy viewing of the jib leech. sailing upwind to be sure the mast is straight side-to-side.

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors 18

Original VPP

Upwind Downwind

TWS Boatspeed AWA TWA TWS Boatspeed AWA TWA

4 3.79 23.3 45.3 4 3.81 73.7 139.8

5 4.50 23.2 44.5 5 4.56 77.8 141.6

6 5.22 23.0 43.2 6 5.32 81.9 143.3

7 5.60 22.9 41.7 7 5.79 89.9 146.0

8 5.96 22.7 40.5 8 6.26 97.9 148.7

9 6.15 22.7 39.5 9 6.55 106.4 151.0

10 6.22 22.7 38.4 10 6.84 114.9 153.2

11 6.30 22.9 37.5 11 7.11 120.0 154.3

12 6.34 23.0 37.1 12 7.38 125.1 155.3

13 6.39 23.4 36.7 13 7.53 132.9 158.2

14 6.41 23.6 36.5 14 7.68 140.7 161.1

15 6.45 24.0 36.5 15 8.61 127.5 154.0

16 6.48 24.4 36.4 16 9.55 113.8 146.8

17 6.49 25.0 36.4 17 10.14 114.4 147.1

18 6.50 25.4 36.5 18 10.73 115.0 147.5

19 6.52 25.7 36.6 19 11.32 115.5 147.8

20 6.55 26.0 36.6 20 11.92 116.1 148.1

25 6.60 28.3 38.0 25 15.23 121.3 152.1

30 6.61 31.1 40.2 30 17.41 131.4 156.7

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors 19

Worldwide Service All North Lofts offer: At North Sails, we view each sail purchase • Annual checkover as the beginning of a long and rewarding • Winter storage relationship. We base this expectation on a • Retrofitting strong service commitment that includes • Educational preventive maintenance, sound advice, • Sail washing education and expert repairs. • Sail tune-up • Seminar resources North Sails is a network of more than 100 lofts in 34 countries around the world. Each offers knowledgeable, friendly, personal sales and service. Our size and worldwide reach also means North has the world’s most expansive sailmaking database. It would be hard to find a sailboat for which we cannot make a fast, durable and long lasting sail.

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors 20

The North Promise

North Sails proudly stands by every product it makes. Our years of innovation, research and testing make us confidentin  the high quality of our products.

This is why with every Cruising, Racing or One Design sail we offer free sail care and repair, honored anywhere in the world through our network of service locations.

Terms & conditions apply

For more information visit the North Sails Offshore One Design website at:

offshoreonedesign.com

For any question you may have on tuning your Farr 30 for speed, contact our expert:

Chris Larson [email protected] +1.443.994.4000

Martin Standberg [email protected] +040.61.90.201

For other useful information visit the Farr 30 class website www.farr30.org

Farr 30 Tuning Guide Solutions for today’s sailors