SAILING COURSE MATERIALS

OVERVIEW

INTRODUCTION The NCSC has an unusual ownership arrangement -- almost unique in the USA. You sail a boat jointly owned by all members of the club. The club thus has an interest in how you sail. We don't want you to crack up our boats. The club is also concerned about your safety. We have a good reputation as competent, safe sailors. We don't want you to spoil that record. Before we started this training course we had many incidents. Some examples: Ran aground in New Jersey. Stuck in the mud. Another grounding; broke the tiller. Two boats collided under the bridge. One demasted. Boats often stalled in foul current, and had to be towed in. Since we started the course the number of incidents has been significantly reduced.

SAILING COURSE ARRANGEMENT This is only an elementary course in sailing. There is much to learn. We give you enough so that you can sail safely near New Castle. Sailing instruction is also provided during the sailing season on Saturdays and Sundays without appointment and in the week by appointment. This instruction is done by skippers who have agreed to be available at these times to instruct any unkeyed member who desires instruction.

CHECK-OUT PROCEDURE When you "check-out" we give you a key to the sail house, and you are then free to sail at any time. No reservation is needed. But you must know how to sail before you get that key. We start with a written examination, open book, that you take at home. When you have submitted an acceptable paper, you may check-out on the river with a member of the Sailing Committee. The open-book exam should be easy -- if you have attended classes, studied the lessons, covered the reading assignments and sailed enough.

NOMENCLATURE We have a new vocabulary that you have to learn. You must at least talk like a sailor: Parts of the boat -- see model sloop, Maneuvers, and Commands needed -- so the skipper can explain what he intends to do, and the crew will know what is expected of them. Chapters 2-5 give some vocabulary. See also the glossary at the end of the book.

STOWAGE Everything must be in its place if the boat is to be orderly and safe. You cannot meet an emergency if your boat is cluttered with gear, lines, pop bottles, life jackets, etc... When you finish with something, e.g., the whisker pole, put it away in its place. Keep everything in its place, always the same place so that you can find it in a hurry. Note where you find things, and remember to return gear to those same places. The handbook includes a stowage chart (Page 5.1).

Copyright New Castle Sailing Club 2010 TIDE AND CURRENT TABLES

New Castle is an excellent place to sail, except for one element -- a strong current. You must learn to cope with it. It can be done. Tide is the vertical rise and fall of the water level caused by changes in gravitational attraction between the earth, moon and sun. The term is frequently misused. The tidal current is the horizontal flow of water from one point to another, resulting from different tidal heights (or depths). Both tide and current are important to us. The depth of water, or movement of tide, varies about five feet at New Castle. The current ranges from zero to about 3 mph. A small boat sometimes cannot sail at 3 mph. When that happens, you must avoid having the current carry you away from the mooring. It is imperative that in light airs you first try to sail against the current to see whether you can make headway against it. If you cannot, go back to the mooring immediately. Paddle or sail back close to shore, where the current is weakest. There is an exception: Sometimes you can sail with the current in anticipation of an early turn in the current, which will then return you to the mooring. Otherwise, unless you are quite confident that you have enough wind to sail against the current, you should invariably sail upstream on the ebb tide, and downstream on the flood. That is, against the current in each instance. Then if the wind drops, the current will bring you home.

HOW TO USE TIDE TABLES You will find a tide table on the notice board in the sail house, and in a cutty on each boat. A copy is sent out each spring to be inserted in Section 1 of your handbook. Tide tables give the times of high and low tides at New Castle.

USE OF CURRENT TABLES The current tables give the current in knots abreast of New Castle. Positive values indicate flood (current flowing north) and negative values indicate ebb (current flowing south). Note that the times of high and low tide do not coincide with slack current. Slack current is usually about an hour behind the tide change. Note also that, for about half an hour before slack current to about half an hour after, there will be practically no current.

Copyright New Castle Sailing Club 2010

CHARTS

A chart is a map for navigators and other mariners. It is very different from your usual land map or road map. Note the following:

1. The ship channel is indicated by dashed lines, between which there is deep water for deep- draft vessels.

2. The small figures are soundings (depths) in feet at mean low water -- about as shallow as it ever gets at that point. High tide will add about 5 ft. to these soundings.

3. Buoys are indicated by a dot and a diamond. A larger purple dot with a diamond indicates a lighted buoy.

4. The three R's: Red, Right, Returning.

5. Ships returning to port are favored on charts and by navigation aids.

6. Ranges enable pilots to know when they are in the channel. Most ranges are for incoming ships: Deepwater New Castle Bulkhead Bar Reedy Island Baker Liston --Liston point is where the river legally becomes the bay.

7. Landmarks on shore are indicated, e.g., belfry, tank.

8. Distinguishing characteristics of lights are shown: R"2D" This marks a red buoy, identified Qk.Fl. Red as 2D, meaning the second buoy on Bell that range (Deepwater). It has a light and a bell. The light flashes quickly. The bell sounds when waves from a passing vessel rock the buoy.

9. Fathom lines, similar to contour lines. A fathom is 6 feet. The one-fathom line has "6" at intervals, the two-fathom line has "12", and so on. Inside the one-fathom line near the time of low tide, be wary of running aground. The chart should be useful to you in telling you where you are on the river, how deep the water is ahead, where the channel is, and where the ocean- going vessels (the big ships) will pass. Each of our boats has a section of the chart rolled up in a tube along with the tide tables.

TACKING, REACHING, RUNNING AND JIBING

Now, finally, we come to the technique of sailing. How do we make the boat go? The way the boat goes to windward, i.e. sails up-wind, is the ultimate test of the skipper and the boat. We will discuss the technique of sailing, and how the skipper and crew maneuver the boat, rudder, and sails in the several points of sailing -- tacking, reaching, running, coming about and jibing.

Tacking Tacking is sailing up-wind, zigzagging on alternate tacks.

Port tack -- wind comes over the port side. Starboard tack -- wind comes over the starboard side.

Tacking involves a common technique. All sloops from the tiny sailing dinghy to the magnificent craft that race for the America's Cup follow the same procedure.

Sail as close to the wind as you can -- that is where you want to go. The sails will flutter when you sail too close. Since this flutter begins at the luff -the forward edge of the sail this is called luffing the sail or pinching. The Jib luffs first.

When too far off the wind you lose ground, and do not advance rapidly to windward. Seek the point between too far off the wind, and luffing too close to the wind. Then you will gain most forward motion, without being retarded by sailing too close to the wind, or luffing.

Usually the wind shifts direction frequently. Watch the tell-tales, the strips of yarn tied to the shrouds, that fly in the wind and show its direction. The mast-head fly also helps. A good sailor will take advantage of every shift.

Luffing Any time you turn the boat into the wind you are luffing. This term causes confusion since it is also used to describe the situation where the front portion of a sail is fluttering as a result of sailing too tight on the wind for the current trim of the sail.

Coming about The change from one tack to the other is called coming about -- port tack to starboard, or vice versa.

Since your boat will lose speed as it comes into the wind, be sure you have momentum ("way"), but in a high wind, wait for a lull.

Then command “Ready about.” Probably short for “Are you read to come about?” or the directive “Make ready to come about.”

Every member of the crew should reply; “Ready about,” 1. to tell the skipper that he heard and understood the command, and 2. to tell him he is ready to come about and do his part with the jib. If he is not ready to tend the Jib, he should say so then; otherwise, he uncleats the Jib sheet and holds it in his hand.

Skipper then says, “Hard-a-lee,” and without waiting for a response from the crew pushes the tiller hard to the lee side of the boat. Give the tiller a hard push, fast in the beginning of the stroke. This will make the rudder actually push against the water and help to get the boat to come around. How do you get around the tiller? One way is to stand up and pass the tiller behind you. Another way is to turn your back forward and go around, but this is not as good because you have to take your eyes off the sail.

Crew should let the jib flutter over. Do not pull the jib over quickly for it will hinder the boat's turning through the eye of the wind. When boat is past this point as it turns, pull in sheet on other tack. Cleat it down quickly before the full force of the wind hits it. Nice timing needed! Skipper meanwhile is watching for mainsail to fill on other tack. When that happens, if it does, he or she adjusts course to sail as close to wind as possible and still maintain drive of the boat.

In Irons You may miss and get stuck in irons. Boat will not catch wind on either side. Soon you will be making stern way (going backward). Remember you must reverse the tiller.

Big difference out in the river is that often you cannot tell whether you are moving forward or aft. Look for bubbles going by. If none there, and usually there aren’t, try to make some with a splash of your hand. This is often a real hassle. Backing jib helps. Don't Pinch

Natural inclination is to sail too close to the wind. Boat will not sail well, you will lose speed and drive. You lose more than you gain by pinching.

Sail By the Wind This is difficult concept for most new sailors. Don't try to sail for a point on shore or for a buoy, or to round the ice fenders. Instead, sail where the wind will let you sail. If you can't make the mark, or round the buoy, you just have to take another tack. You might as well be philosophical about it. Sailing can be either frustrating or relaxing. It is pretty much in your state of mind.

Wind will “head you.” It shifts over so that you are sailing directly into the wind. You luff. When you luff, bear off. Wind can shift in the other direction. When it does, “head up,” closer to the wind. Tell-tales will help you decide where the wind is, plus the way you heel over. Get all you can out of the wind. Try always to work up to windward.

Lay the Mark In racing you will hear the expression, “lay the mark.” It means if we tack now, can we lay the mark? i.e., get around the mark (buoy marking a turn in the race). 45° off wind on one tack, plus 45° off on other tack add up to 90°, so when you are abeam of the mark, you should be able to “fetch the mark.” This gives you an idea of when to tack, or come about. You must take the current into your calculations also.

Two ways to parry a hard gust of wind. The gust, if strong enough, may heel the boat over, and perhaps even capsize it, if not parried. 1. Head up closer to the wind. This lessens force of wind on sails. 2. Let out the mainsheet. This spills wind from the sail. “Ease the sheet.” Don't ease the sheet unless you have to, because it usually slows you down. In a hard puff you may have to do so. Be sure crew is ready to ease the jib sheet on command. A stationary boat is more easily knocked down.

Reaching Sailing with the wind from abeam to off the quarter. Your objective or destination is not directly to windward.

1. Close reach: wind coming from between 45 and 90 degrees 2. Beam reach: wind coming from abeam (90 degrees) 3. Broad reach: wind coming off the quarter (more than 90 degrees, but not directly behind)

Now you can sail toward a particular spot on shore, or for a buoy. An easy way to sail. Fast. Not much heel. Don't get careless. The wind can shift. Tend the sail and adjust when needed.

Running Wind coming from directly behind; seemingly an easy way to sail. But beware of accidental jibe. Stopper knot in the mainsheet needed now. Watch tell-tales closely. Almost constantly. If wind gets into dangerous position - same side as mainsail, you may have to jibe.

Pitch pole. When the boat flips end for end with the stern of the boat coming over the bow. This is quite rare but can be quite dangerous and can result in severe damage to boat and crew. Generally it is caused by running at high speed down wind with spinnaker set and having the crew weight too far forward. This results in the bow burying in the water and flipping the boat. To guard against this, move crew aft. Skipper should be aft already. If she insists on burying her nose, come around more into the wind, i.e. closer to the wind. If wind is too strong to jibe, come about.

Planing - skimming across the surface of the water with the hull lifting out of the water so that only a fraction of the hull is submerged.

Jibing You may be running, or simply decide to change your course. Command “prepare to jibe,” haul in some on the mainsheet, command “Jibe ho,” push the tiller away from the side the boom is on (this brings the stern of the boat through the wind). When the stern passes through the wind, the wind will push the boom across the boat (usually very fast). As soon as this happens steer back in the direction from which you came a little bit to compensate for the boat’s tendency to head up into the wind (this is referred to as an “S” gybe). Do not over steer or you could swamp the boat.

Some new skippers get confused and come about when they meant to jibe, and vice versa.

When wind catches sail on other side, let out sheet fast. Make sure sheet does not tangle, and don't get it tangled around your feet. It's easy to capsize in a jibe if not done properly. Crew must be nimble and get over from one side to other at just right moment. Pass tiller behind you or straddle it. If wind hits too hard, come on around into wind a bit.

At first don't try to execute a jibe and keep your boat pointing at a particular point on shore, forget about the shore for a moment, sail by the wind. After mainsail has come over, jibe is completed, and boat is sailing safely, THEN see where you are and set your course. In a race it is different. There you must keep track of where you are.

Why Jibe?

Various situations where it is a good maneuver:

1. Wind may shift when you are running. Forced to jibe.

2. You may start to run on one tack and find you must change your course.

3. Rounding buoys in triangular race, you usually have to jibe at least once.

4. When changing your course, you may have choice of coming about or jibing. A jibe is faster. It may be dangerous in a high wind. If so, come about instead.

5. With man overboard, a jibe is fastest way to turn around and pick up a sailor in the water.

Copyright New Castle Sailing Club 2010

DUTIES OF CREW ON ANY POINT OF SAILING l. Look out ahead and warn skipper of anything in the way. He or she may not be able to see around the sails.

2. Tell skipper of approaching boat, e.g. ship coming in the channel, power cruiser coming up from behind. Learn to indicate location of objects by parts of your boat: “Two points off starboard bow.” “Power cruiser off the port quarter.” (Behind the skipper)

3. Hike out, which keeps the boat balanced and gives more drive. Imperative in a race. An acrobatic sport, learn to get back in when the wind eases. Hike far out in a gust. Keep boat on even keel if possible. If crew does not do this without being told, skipper should tell them. Telling them once should be enough.

4. In light air crew may have to move to center of boat, even sit on lee side. Do this without being told. Crew should be sensitive to trim of boat. Fore and aft trim is important also, but harder to reckon with. Skipper should sit on aft end of seat. Not on transom or on deck, nor on lee side unless air is very light. Crew sits next to skipper. This will help to get proper fore and aft trim.

5. When sailing with a Fisherman's reef (jib sheeted in tight, main most of the way out), crew should hold Jib sheet in hand ready to ease jib in a puff, because boat will not head up into wind otherwise.

6. Crew should spring into action without being told when boat goes aground (center board pops up). Haul up board quickly.

7. Keep time in a race.

8. Tidy up the boat. Bail. Hand skipper anything he wants.

9. Consult the chart. Help with piloting. (Distinguish between piloting and navigation.) Watch for changes in weather. Check on leeway or drift and inform the skipper.

10. Respect the skipper's word. They are in command of the ship. What they say goes. Don't argue. Do it, and argue later. - Exception would be a novice sailor at the helm. Instructor should sit beside them, and be ready to take over the helm or the mainsheet or both quickly, if they do something wrong.

“Bristol Fashion”

1. Leave boat shipshape. Wipe out the sand. Often more honored in the breach than in the observance. Remember, the log tells who had the boat last.

2. Bail out the water in the bilge.

3. Instructor should tell you how to rig the boat and "put it to bed."

4. As you pull away in the dinghy, look back to see if everything is in order. Check mooring lines.

We had a boat chafe through a mooring line, break loose, and land down at the refinery with a hole bashed in its side. All because it was moored improperly.

5. If any repair is needed, do it. If you can't complete repair, note on blackboard in sail house what is missing. Get materials, report damage to boat captain.

6. If short a batten or a crank, tie one on to sail bag in sail house.

7. Sign the log when you come ashore, giving time of return. WEATHER - HOW TO ESTIMATE WIND VELOCITY

I. INTRODUCTION A discussion of wind observations to be made before sailing.

This is not weather forecasting. Instead we simply cover the indications of wind and weather that will help us decide whether or not to sail.

Although many days are suitable for sailing, we unfortunately have to emphasize storms and other dangers. But there are many more good days than bad.

II. WHEN AND WHERE TO OBSERVE THE WIND? Start at home when you decide whether to sail. Continue observing during your drive to the moorings. Also while your sailing.

Call for weather reports close to the time that you leave to go sailing. Hourly forecasts (including wind) can be found at Accuweather.com

III. WHAT IS TOO LITTLE OR TOO MUCH WIND? Some people feel we need 10 mph to sail against the current, with not more than 15-17 mph safe for beginners in small boats such as Thistles and Flying Scots. Skillful sailors can handle higher winds. Boats over 20 feet thrive on winds of 20-25 mph.

Nothing is certain about the wind; direction and speed can change.

IV. FREQUENT WIND PATTERNS A. After midnight to early morning - little or no wind. B. Dawn - often a flat calm. C. Dawn to 10am - picks up slowly (by 10am there's enough to sail) D. Mid-afternoon - strongest wind of the day. E. 3pm DST - wind begins to slacken. F. Nightfall - steadily drops to nearly zero again.

*** But don't always count on this. Pattern often does not hold.

V. WHAT TO WATCH TO ESTIMATE WIND SPEED A. Trees - good but very difficult to read. B. Clouds - not very helpful. C. Flags - really excellent indicators. D. Smoke from smokestacks - also excellent. E. Surface of water - Best indicator of all.

*** None of these are reliable unless completely unobstructed.

VI. HOW TO USE THESE INDICATORS A. Trees - They can tell something, but it takes a lot of practice to learn how to read them, so we don't recommend them. But here is what to look for: 1. Slight stirring of leaves on windward side - 5 mph. 2. Small leafy branches (2 '-3' ) moving - 10 mph. 3. Large (6'-12') branches moving - 15 mph. 4. Whole Tree moving - more than 15 mph - too much for sailing.

B. Clouds - Unfortunately the altitude changes the apparent speed. 1. Streaked and rapidly moving clouds indicate high winds. 2. Slow moving clouds indicate only light air. 3. High clouds seem immobile.

C. Flags - These are really good. Learn where they are and use only those on upright poles. Look at them closely. 1. Hanging limp around the staff - too little wind. 2. Standing straight out, ends flickering rapidly - too much wind. Don't try to sail. 3. Standing 45 degrees from staff, flapping lazily from side to side - wind just about right for beginners. 4. Intermediate positions - you must learn to estimate these by experience.

D. Smokestacks - Another excellent indicator. They are usually tall and unobstructed. Learn where they are. 1. Smoke rising straight up - little or no wind. 2. Smoke drifting slowly, almost straight up - very light air. 3. Smoke moving off at about 45 degrees - about right. 4. Smoke blowing flat or below top of stack - too much wind. Don't try to sail.

*** NOTE *** There are some minor problems with smoke. It can be erratic because of heat. Steam has a related problem. It is quickly dissipated. Smoke blown directly towards or away from you can fool you. Don't forget that wind blows in puffs and lulls.

E. Surface of water - This is the best of all indicators. 1. It is very important to distinguish between off-shore and on-shore winds. Otherwise no accurate appraisal is possible. a). Off-shore wind - blows from the land to the water. As you face the water it will strike you on the back. It is descriptive. The water close by, at your feet, is down wind, in the lee of the shore. At 1/4 to 1/2 mile out, where the water is no longer shielded by the shore, the wind will be much stronger and the water much rougher. White caps will be hidden from view. b). On-shore wind - is the reverse, it blows from the water to the land. As you face the water it will strike you in the face. It will be more evident. White caps will break towards you. At our moorings it would be from the southeast, but any wind within 30 degrees of straight ahead would be considered an on-shore wind. The upper end of the jetty is almost due south of our moorings. 2. Water surface glassy - no wind. Don't try to sail. 3. Small patches or cat's paws (strips of wind showing here and there with glassy surfaces between) Be patient, wait a little while. 4. Most of the river covered with cat's paws - 10 mph. Probably enough wind or there soon will be. 5. Spray of white caps appear - 12 mph. 6. White caps more general - 15 mph. Better reef or don't sail until more skilled. 7. White caps all over - 18 mph or more. Don't sail unless you are skilled, then only with a reef. 8 . Spray blowing from top of white caps - Far too much wind for a small boat. Can usually be seen in the troughs .

**** The Beaufort scale; devised by Sir Francis Beaufort, a British admiral in 1774-1857; describes these phenomena in more detail.

VII. FOR NOVICES A. Probably have more trouble and accidents from misjudging the wind than from any other cause. It is very important to judge it correctly. 1. Do not hesitate to ask a seasoned sailor for his estimate of the wind. 2. Do not be ashamed to reef. 3. In a race, skippers will often have all the sails flying in a strong wind, but it is dangerous, and should be avoided; at least until you have become more skilled. Racers do this for two reasons: a). They want to get all the speed they can out of the boat. b). Help is always close by. If you are the only boat on the river, it is a different story. Furthermore, racers often capsize. Everyone who capsizes is required to submit a written report to the Sailing committee.

B. The Board has ruled that no member shall take a boat out alone (i.e. single-handling), until he or she has sailed for a full season at New Castle.

VIII. WEATHER CAN CHANGE WHILE YOU SAIL A. Wind can change very quickly. A slow change is more likely, so slow that you do not notice the change. Increased speed is likely to be more rapid, however. 1. Watch for signs of increased speed. Note action on your own sails. Watch surface of water for waves and white caps. Note angle of heel of other boats, and whether crew is hiking out. (i.e. leaning over high side of boat to counter balance force of wind). Look to windward for white caps. 2. When in doubt, stay close to moorings. 3. When you have too much wind, you can sometimes seek shelter in the lee of the Delaware shore - when wind is west of northwest. That shelter or wind shadow extends for about a quarter of a mile into the river. 4. Storms almost never strike without some warning, about an hour's warning if you know enough to watch for the signs. A line squall is an exception, but is quite rare. 5. Watch for signs of the wind dropping. In light air, stay on the Delaware side of the river. You may otherwise be swept past the moorings while trying to cross the river. Current is strongest at mid-river, least near the shore. 6. Hot weather usually brings light air. August is a month when you are more likely to find insufficient wind. 7. Don't be fooled by the big sailing craft. They can take far more wind than you can in a Thistle. 8. The Flying Scot is more stable than the Thistle. It has hard chines, a wider beam and a heavier centerboard. Although it is slightly slower and usually does not place highly in races, it is a safer boat for heavier air.

**NOTE*** If you observe all the above precautions, you can be fairly sure that you will not get into serious trouble. Copyright New Castle Sailing Club 2010 LOCAL HAZARDS

I. Shallow Water Far From Shore

Anywhere close to shore the water is almost always shallow. But south of our mooring, almost the whole shoreline of Hamburg Cove is shallow for a distance of 1,000 yards or more out into the river. From our mooring, all the way to Pea Patch Island, on the Delaware side, the water is shallow far out into the river. 1,000 yards is over half a mile. At low tide, you should stay that far out. High tide makes a difference of 5 feet, so you can go in much closer to shore then. Our boats draw about 4 feet with the board down. There is one sand bar near upper end of Pea Patch Island. Watch out for it. It is quite surprising to run aground far out into the river.

II. Submerged Pilings

There are some just above and just below our mooring, near the shore. More off Riverview Beach on the Jersey side where there is also a partially submerged barge. Consult the chart and stay clear.

III. The Channel

The channel is marked by green and red buoys. Buoys seem very widely spaced when you approach channel from the side. Learn the location of buoys near our mooring, 4D and 5D. When near channel, watch far up and down river for approaching ships. Tops of the masts of ships are often visible across the big bend below New Castle. Up river you can see ships up to the Marine Terminal. When the ships are sailing with the current, they can sneak up on you with surprising speed. If you spot them as soon as they come into sight, you will have plenty of time to get out of their way. Give the ships plenty of room. The wake of a big ship traveling at some speed creates a wave 4 to 6 feet high - enough to swamp a Thistle close to the ship. That wake will flatten out after it has traveled 1,000 feet. Take the wave on the quarter, or head into it at about a 45 angle. Ships also are dangerous at the ship’s stern since a sailboat can be sucked into the ship’s stern in that situation.

Remember, the ship cannot stop quickly, nor can it turn aside to avoid you. It is up to you to keep out of its way.

IV. Pea Patch Island

. The river is wider on the Delaware side of the island. Hence, it is safer to go down the Delaware side. You can go down to the lower end of the island and come back up the same side. There are shoals so check your chart. There are also power towers to avoid. You could meet a tanker going to the refinery, but that is rare, and when they do, they travel very slowly. If you are going to round Pea Patch we recommend you do it with someone who has experience with this. Be aware that there is a long sandbar projecting from the south tip creating a shoal and there are shoals around the island. White round buoys have been placed around the island for the attachment of oil booms. Stay to the outside of these and your draft should be fine. When rounding it is safer to hug the New Jersey side of the channel because it affords better depth and maneuvering room. Visibility is restricted on the Jersey side because of the bend in the river and not all vessels are tall enough to be seen above Killcohook Wildlife Refuge. Remember to watch out for the next hazard it may be between you and your destination.

V. Submerged Dikes (Jetties)

Built in 1930-1932 by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, the Bulkhead Shoals Submerged Dike was designed to divert the river current so that it would scour out the channel, reducing the amount of dredging required. The Submerged Dike is just below the surface of the water at high tide, which allows accumulated debris to float off to the Delaware side. This makes it invisible at high tide, save for the widely-spaced markers. It is made of stone and metal and will cause severe damage if you sail over it. There are nine marks along the dike, five of them are lighted all have white diamond signs. Some of the marks are low and hard to see at a distance. The dike also curves which can create the illusion that you have a straight shot around it but would actually cross it twice if you survived the first crossing. It appears to be a clear expanse of water, but actually at high tide the dike is only 1 or 2 feet below the surface. Small boats, usually power, with no chart come down the Delaware side and then attempt to cross over. Twelve lives have been lost on the Bulkhead Shoals Submerged Dike. Study the chart and know where you are. There is another one located on the New Jersey side of the river at Travis Cove and runs from the Pennsville out into the river turning south and ending north of the Riverview Inn and the old ferry pilings. The Travis Cove dike is marked with two small unlighted white buoys that are hard to see and very far apart. It has wrecks anchoring the south end. The cove is very shallow at low tide.

VI. The Bridge

The big bridge piers deflect the wind. The current is strong under the bridge because the piers narrow the riverbed. It is easy to go under the bridge when you have a following wind, but one way or another you usually have to tack. Sometimes the wind will come around one side of the big abutment, then as you proceed it comes around the other side. The effect is for you to have a following wind and then suddenly have to tack, or vice versa. A violent jibe may result. Get experienced skipper to show you how.

There is plenty of sailing water between the bridge and Pea Patch Island, a distance of about nine miles. The width is about .8 of a mile from the Delaware shore to the Delaware side of the channel, and about 1-3/4 miles from shore to shore at New Castle.

VII. Buoys, Crab Pots and Moorings

These hazards are floating objects that are anchored to the riverbed by a line or chain. The buoys are often large and made of steel they will damage the boat if you hit them. The crab pots have two small buoys that float on the surface. In strong currents they can be mostly submerged. If you sail over one it can catch on your centerboard and/or the rudder. Crab pots are the property of commercial fisherman. They get upset if you damage their pots. Please avoid them. There are other moorings on the Delaware besides the club’s. We have found two on the New Jersey side one around the inner power line tower and one north of the Killcohook Wildlife Refuge. They are very large steel drums and will be partly submerged in strong current. Hitting one may damage or potentially capsize the boat and cause injury. The best ways to avoid hitting these hazards are to keep a sharp lookout and to sail down current of the buoy. Remember the current will push you. If you are up current you may get pushed into the buoy but if you sail down current you will be pushed away from the buoy.

NOTE: The Ice Fenders are located near the pier at Battery Park. They were built to protect wooden ships in harbor from ice flows. They are not a hazard but it can be tricky maneuvering among them. There is plenty of water depth and room to sail between them. Just watch the swirling current and at low tide the fenders may block your wind.

EMERGENCIES

I. In Irons A. More likely to occur when wind is light. B. Very difficult to determine whether you are moving ahead or astern. Watch bubbles, if any. C. Steer boat onto a tack. You might have to sail backwards. D. Back the Jib. E. When sails fill and you begin to move ahead, shift tiller hard over to other side.

II. Accidental Jibe A. When running, the wind may get on the same side as mainsail. This is called sailing on the lee. This means that the wind is getting behind the mainsail onto its leeward side. In this position the wind can violently push the mainsail across to the other side. The crew may get hit with the boom and the sudden shift in weight can upset the boat. Always know where the wind is. Closely watch the sails and the tell tales! It is a good idea to have someone holding the boom when running. They will be able to tell you if there is back pressure on the main. B. If you do accidentally jibe. 1. Do your best to balance the boat. Be ready to shift your weight quickly. 2. Warn the crew to get low and centered - they may not have noticed it coming. 3. Sometimes you can pull in the main sheet, then let it out gradually to soften the blow. 4. Turning the bow a little into the wind (on the new tack), which can help if done properly. C. Ask your instructor to demonstrate a jibe.

III. Running Aground A. Do two things as fast as you can: 1. Come about, or bear off. 2. Pull up the centerboard. B. Your crew should be instructed to do this without being told but don’t hesitate to remind them. C. Listen for the centerboard rubbing on sand or thumping D. Emphasize need for quick action. E. Aground in soft mud is often deceiving. You may not know you are aground. In light air, it doesn't make much difference. In high winds, you could capsize. Be alert to the movement of your boat in relation to the shore. - are you making headway over the bottom. If not, you may be aground.

IV. Sailing In Light Wind A. Be aware of current when wind is light.

1. Stay where current will bring you back to the mooring. 2. Place crew on leeward side to help fill the sails. 3. Stay on Delaware side of river. Can be swept down while trying to cross. River is 1- 3/4 miles wide at New Castle. 4. Be ready to paddle if need be. 5. Stay away from the channel. B. If caught where current is carrying you away from mooring: 1. Try to sail back, or 2. Try to paddle back near shore 3. Anchor, and wait for wind to come up, do not anchor in or near channel. C. Learn how to take a sight on shore to determine whether you are holding your own, or drifting with the current.

V. Sailing In Strong wind A. Spilling Wind 1. Letting the mainsail luff 2. Fisherman's reef (jib sheeted tight, mainsail out)- Warn crew: be ready to slack the jib.

B. Two ways to shorten sail 1. Sail without a jib. a. Easiest and fastest way to shorten sail. b. Lower the jib and secure it with the painter or other line so it doesn’t blow out. c. May have to raise centerboard slightly if boat fails to come about easily. d. Note that if caught in irons you cannot back the jib. You will have to make sternway until the main fills. Then you can make headway. 2. Sailing with jib alone (ie without the mainsail) a. More difficult, but it can be done. b. Very pronounced tendency to bear off. c. Cannot point (tack) very well. e. Have to gybe to change direction. f. Mainsail must be tied down or it may blow out g. The boom and main will be in your way.

Don't hesitate to shorten sail. It is much easier to sail this way in strong wind. Experienced sailors will respect your judgment.

VI. Capsize A. Don't take sails down. Can usually right Thistles without doing this. B. Fire Department will come out if someone calls them, except in a race. C. Rough sea may make righting difficult. D. Don jackets if not on. Note: It is wise to don jackets whenever winds get high. E. If caught under sail swim out quickly. F. Retrieve gear if it is safe to do so. G. Uncleat sheets, free tangles. H. Point bow into wind. I. Stand on centerboard - one or two people. J. Bail from outside first. K. Put lightest sailor in stern to bail.

VII. Swamping A. The boat has taken on significant water but is still upright. B. Life jackets imperative. C. Start bailing . D. If the boat has self bailers open them and start making way. This will help drain water.

VIII. Seven Useful knots: For more knots and how to tie them check the internet or a book on knots. 1. Overhand Knot, Stopper Knot, or Figure 8 knot 2. Square or Reef Knot. Avoid the granny. 3. Clove Hitch. -Used to hang coiled sheets. Four-in-hand necktie knot may be a Clove Hitch. Will slip. 4. Bowline. -The king of knots. Two ways to tie it. Will not slip nor jam. 5. Two half hitches. -A very useful knot. 6. Fisherman's Bend. -Similar to two half hitches. Also called Anchor Hitch.

LEAVING AND RETURNING TO THE MOORING

Quote - Charley Petze - A world run by sailors - orderly, careful, thoughtful

Leaving and returning to the mooring is not difficult if you do it right. It is all in knowing how.

I. Wind and Current Vary Greatly

A. In strength B. In direction C. In combination of the two

1. If they are in same or approximately same direction, they reinforce each other. 2. If the wind is across the direction of the current, it will deflect your course. 3. If the wind and the current are opposed, problem arise that we will discuss.

II. Leaving the mooring

A. Note the strength and direction of the wind and the current before you start to rig. B. Decide on your course. Plan how you will sail away from the mooring. Determine which tack you will sail on. Will you go up or down the river? Will any other buoys or boats be in your way? Tell your crew what you plan to do. Make sure they understand. You need teamwork now!

III. Three Things to Avoid Because They Mean Trouble:

A. Snagging the centerboard on the mooring line. B. Being blown ashore on the rocks. C. Sailing around the buoy, jibing violently.

IV. Leaving the Mooring, First Method

This is method most club members use, but they are highly skilled. If all goes well, it is the easiest and simplest way to sail away.

A. Lower the centerboard about half way. B. Decide on your course and inform your crew. C. Put the dinghy on the buoy so that it will not be in your way when you leave. If you go on the starboard tack, the dinghy should be on your starboard. D. Your first tack must carry you away from the dinghy and the mooring line. E. Crew should go forward, unsnap the painter of the sloop, bring it into the boat. F. Skipper waits until his boat is streaming back from the buoy, then tells the crew to cast off the mooring line. G. Boat will drift back as wind and current sweep it away from the buoy. H. Boat will be making stern way (moving backwards). Tiller and rudder act exactly opposite to way they do when boat is moving forward. Very confusing. Simplest way to understand what to do is: 1. Make sure you are actually moving backwards. 2. Point the rudder, not the tiller but the rudder, in the direction you want the stem of the boat (now the leading end) to go. You want to get the boat off the wind (it has been heading directly into the wind) and on the tack you have decided upon. 3. Crew should back the jib. 4. When you are far enough off the wind and your mainsail is full and drawing, reverse your tiller and rudder to take you off the wind when you are moving ahead. 5. Tell the crew to let go of the jib, and trim it properly for your tack. 6. Look out ahead and sail away. 7. Make sure the centerboard is down! 8. Tidy up so the boat is ready for the next maneuver.

V. Leaving the mooring - Second method

Use when wind and current are opposed. This is difficult and could cause a violent jibe if not done properly.

A. Put the centerboard down. B. Hoist the jib, but not the mainsail. Note that your boat will lay to the current. That means that your stern is pointed into the wind. If you hoist the mainsail now, it will catch the wind and `you will start to sail around the mooring before you can cast off. C. Trim the jib on the tack you want to go off on. D. Crew should tend the jib and hold the mooring line ready to cast off. E. Skipper should steer the sloop away from the buoy and dinghy. You will be running down wind on the jib alone. F. When clear of the buoy and the dinghy, sail out into the river, and bring your boat into the wind. G. With your jib still up, hoist your mainsail. You will be making stern way. Skipper should keep boat headed into the wind. Crew should pull up the mainsail. Skipper should watch to see that sail does not foul the shrouds or spreaders. H. Take your boat off the wind, and sail away.

VI. Returning to the Mooring

Your goal should be to bring the sloop to a dead stop at the buoy. Unlike a car, a boat has no brakes that can be applied easily with your foot. As you approach the mooring:

A. Plan your approach. Learn to allow for the wind and the current to deflect your course. B. Tell your crew what you are going to do. Make sure they understand. C. Note the boats that are in the way. Decide whether you will go ahead or astern of them, whether to pass to starboard or to port. These plans can be changed in midstream (literally) but tell your crew when you change your mind. D. Note the direction and the strength of the current. Try to pass other moored boats on the side on which the wind or the current or both will be sweeping you away from the obstruction. E. Approach your buoy about 5O feet to one side of it, and downwind from it. F. If you are coming in fast, slack the mainsheet and tell your crew to let go the jib. G. If you are coming in slow, tell the crew to leave it cleated. Keep the main set to get what little speed you can out of it. With the main drawing, you get more speed. With the main luffing, it acts as a brake to slow you down. H. When you are about even with the buoy, turn your sloop in a big arc, and into the wind. Turning should also slow your progress. I. If you come in too fast, the crew should not attempt to hold onto the buoy. Tell them to let it go. You should go on by, and come back to try again. J. If you come in too slow, you may fall short of the buoy. If so, the crew may be able to grab the dinghy. If not, sail away and come back to try again. K. If the wind is onshore, i.e. blowing toward the Delaware shore, you must be careful that you can recover, get your boat back onto the wind, and be able to sail away. The rocks above and below the mooring represent a potential hazard you should avoid. If you ever are swept over to the rocks, the only thing left to do is jump out of the boat and push the boat off the rocks. L. If wind and current are opposed, get the sails down as fast as possible. Try to keep the sails out of the water as they come down. M. Pull up the centerboard immediately.

If wind and current are in about the same direction, you can leave the board down while you "put the boat to bed". But be sure to pull up the board before you leave it. The board down tends to steady the boat while you are in it.

Leaving and making the mooring take much practice to sharpen judgment of the wind and current.

Conditions change, so that a course of action that served you well one time, may not serve at all the next time. It is a new problem every time you try it.

Don' t feel bad if you miss the mooring on your return. Probably no damage will be done to anything except your self-esteem. All of us miss a mooring now and then even after years of practice. Copyright New Castle Sailing Club 2010 STOP THE BOAT...I WANT TO GET OFF (BE SMART……DO IT THE LAZY WAY) by the late, former member, Greg Meyer

Some of you will remember that I was pretty sick a few summers ago and thus spent a lot of time sitting on the dinghy house soaking up the sun, getting a little exercise, and watching other people sail. I noticed that lots of NCSC skippers did a poor job of picking up a mooring. It's natural and to be expected because it is more fun to make a boat go than to make it stop. But we can make a boat stop next to a mooring if we are smart and do it the lazy way by... letting the wind and the current do the work.

A common technique is to grab the mooring on the fly. This technique can rearrange the mooring. A few years ago one of our older members went swimming when he held onto the mooring while the boat kept sailing.

Another technique used is to sail the bow between the mooring and the dinghy, risking getting the painter caught on the centerboard (or even the rudder). It sure stops the sailboat but...

Then there's the "spear the dinghy" technique, and we have all sailed around the mooring when we didn't want to with all the confusion of an uncontrolled jibe.

Some of my ideas about stopping the boat and picking up moorings may be different from those you have read or been taught; however, why not try them as well as others you have heard about and find the ways that work best for you. But by all means... stop the boat!

It Ain't Easy Boats stop when we don't want them too...when they are caught "in irons," or when headed into the wind with sails luffing; but making a boat stop at a specific point is much harder. We have to make use of the forereach of the boat (its "shoot", "coast", or "carry") when sailing into the wind; the turning radius, the effect of any current, the influences of sail trim on boat speed, the wind, and a few other things... all of which are learned only with practice.

So practice...first in open water, then with a floating mark, and finally with a fixed mark like the club buoy or an actual mooring. Learn how far our boats coast when headed into the wind under various wind and wave actions. (Three or more boat lengths under usual conditions but less in high winds, waves, and against the current.) Leam how sharply the boat turns... 90° in about two boat lengths at 3 to 5 knots but in a bigger arc at slower speeds. Learn how current affects the forereach... 1.5 knots opposed will halve it most of the time. Learn to slow the boat down by slacking sheets and letting the sails luff...the effect does not become apparent until the boat has sailed many boat lengths. Leam how wind, current, and waves stop a boat...and more. Some of my Preferences

So you know something about stopping a boat; you will also have to consider where, when, and how several things are to be done to make it stop where you want it to. My preferences include the following:

1. Pick up the dinghy, not the mooring. It's a bigger target and you can stop anywhere alongside or a few feet from either end. Besides, I like to hang the sailboat off the stem of the dinghy to avoid banging the boats together. Editors note: the club consensus is that doing so puts too much strain on the dinghies. Better to hang the dinghy off the stern of the sailboat.

2. Approach the side of the dinghy that will make it easier to sail away if the boat doesn't stop or is too far away... downwind or down current or both.

3. Keep the jib up...for better control during the approach and in picking up speed for another try.

4. Luff the sails early to slow the boat. Start the shoot for the dinghy at the slowest practical speed.

5. Approach at about 10° off a close hauled course so that the final turn will be less than 55° on the true wind (less than 45° on the apparent wind because the apparent wind is about 35° from the centerline of the boat when close-hauled at 5 knots). When the big approach is from a beam or downwind, take time and space to bring the boat to a course between close-hauled and a beam reach in making the final approach.

6. Aim for a point directly down the true wind and two to three boat lengths from the stem of the dinghy. About one boat length before reaching this point, luff into the true wind and steer the boat to the desired side of the dinghy. Depending on the wind, waves, and current, the boat will usually forereach to stop within reaching distance.

7. Approach downwind of the dinghy. (Plan ahead!) Sail a course on a point of sail between a close reach and a beam reach that crosses approximately 2 boat lengths directly downwind of the dinghy. Approximately one-half boat length prior to the exact downwind position, luff up into the "true" wind. Your shoot will carry you depending on wind and current to stop within reach of the dinghy. (This is an approximate procedure.) Many factors are involved. Among those are wind and current. If wind and current reinforce, approximate turn point 1-1/2 boat length downwind. If wind and current oppose, approximate turn point 2-3/4 boat length downwind. Every situation is different. Try first approach and adjust...don't worry! The adjustment is important...not the first approach.

8. Completely release both jib and main sheets while the boat forereaches. The luffing sails will help the boat stop. The boom will frequently extend off to one side of the boat. 9. Raise the centerboard and let the sails help the boat reach its final position before taking them down, but take the main sail down quickly when stopping into the wind with a following current which will turn the boat around the mooring to make it tide borne.

Don't Expect to Succeed the First Time Sure it is complicated! Planning should be done at least 100 yards away. The first trial usually shows up something which was not well planned. Good sailors frequently make three or four attempts. If you end up short, back the boat at least 45° and sail away for another try. If you don't stop, pull in the sheets and sail around again to do it a little differently. It is better than banging the dinghy or dragging the mooring. It ain't been no sin . . . something was learned. However, when you succeed the first time, you can be mighty proud!

Greg Meyer was a well-respected former member who now sails where the blue never ends.

U.S. COAST GUARD NAVIGATION RULES

Below are four basic navigation rules. However, you should consult the U.S. Coast Guard website for further details on all the rules: www.navcen.uscg.gov/mwv/navrules/rotr_online.htm Rule 12. (a) When two sailing vessels are approaching one another, so as to involve risk of collision, one of them shall keep out of the way of the other as follows: i. when each has the wind on a different side, the vessel which has the wind on the port side shall keep out of the way of the other; ii. when both have the wind on the same side, the vessel which is to windward shall keep out of the way of the vessel which is to leeward; iii. if a vessel with the wind on the port side sees a vessel to windward and cannot determine with certainty whether the other vessel has the wind on the port or on the starboard side, she shall keep out of the way of the other. (b) For the purposes of this Rule the windward side shall be deemed to be the side opposite that on which the mainsail is carried being overtaken. Rule 13. (a) Notwithstanding anything contained in the Rules, any vessel overtaking any other shall keep out of the way of the vessel being overtaken. (b) A vessel shall be deemed to be overtaking when coming up with a another vessel from a direction more than 22.5 degrees abaft her beam, that is, in such a position with reference to the vessel she is overtaking, that at night she would be able to see only the sternlight of that vessel but neither of her sidelights. (c) When a vessel is in any doubt as to whether she is overtaking another, she shall assume that this is the case and act accordingly. (d) Any subsequent alteration of the bearing between the two vessels shall not make the overtaking vessel a crossing vessel within the meaning of these Rules or relieve her of the duty of keeping clear of the overtaken vessel until she is finally past and clear. In any event, it is important that you and your crew keep a sharp watch out for other boats and obstructions in the water and communicate with each other to insure the skipper is aware of both. Rule 5. By keeping your sailboat sailing flat, you and your crew can see these more easily and your boat will be sailing more efficiently. In addition, even if you are the privileged vessel under the above rules, you must take action to avoid a collision with other boats. Rule 8.

SAILING TERMS

Here is a non-exhaustive list of sailing terms we frequently (and sometimes infrequently) use when we sail. Items in italics in the definition are defined in this listing as well.

aback – sails backed, or trimmed to windward abaft -- behind

abeam -- off the beam or at right angles to the centerline of the boat, but not on the boat aboard – on or within the boat aft -- towards the stern of the boat; to move aft is to move back (also abaft) aground – stuck on the bottom as a result of shallow waters or another obstruction aids to navigation – artificial objects to supplement natural landmarks in indicating safe and unsafe waters air – wind; it can be light air (up to 8 knots); medium air (9-15 knots); or heavy air (about 15 knots) aloft – overhead alongside -- beside amidships – in or toward the center of the boat anchor – a device shaped so as to grip the bottom, secured to a line from the boat to hold it in the desired position anchorage -- a place suitable for anchoring in relation to the wind, seas and bottom apparent wind – the wind perceived in a moving boat from the combination of the true wind and the wind of motion astern -- in the direction of, or behind, the stern of the boat athwartship – at right angles to the centerline of the boat awash – immersed in water back – 1. to trim a sail to windward. 2. a counterclockwise shift in wind direction

© Norman Yoerg 2005 backing wind – wind shifting to your left as you face it backstay – a wire support from the mast to the stern of the boat, often used to change the mast bend. It is part of the standing rigging backwind – when wind flows from a forward sail (jib) to the lee side of the aft sail (main), as when the jib is backwinding the main sail backwind – when the wind flows from a forward sail (jib) to the windward side of the aft sail (main) when the jib is backwinding the main sail backwinded – the result when there is backwind baggy sails – sails set with a lot of (full) draft bail – to remove water from a boat with a bucket or scoop bailer –1. the person who bails. 2. sluices in the bilge to remove water while underway ballast – weight placed in the bottom of the boat to give it stability bare poles – with all sails down batten -- a short piece of wood or plastic inserted in a sail to keep it taut beam -- the greatest width of the boat, usually in the middle beam reach – sailing with the wind abeam beam wind – a wind that blows across the boat from side to side bearing -- direction according to a compass bearing down --to approach from windward bearing off or away or on– to head off, away from the wind

bearing up -- to sail away to leeward beat or beating -- to sail as close to the wind as efficiently possible. Also called “close hauled” or “by the wind” becalmed – having no wind to allow movement of the boat through the water belay – to make secure bend – to secure (for example a sail to a spar bight -- loop bilge – the lowest part of a boat’s hull bitter end -- the end of chain or line blanket – 1. to take wind from a sail (verb). 2. a covering to ward of the chill (noun) block – a nautical pulley that rotates on a sheave pin or on ball bearings and hung from metal or plastic sides called cheeks board – 1. to go on a boat. 2. abbreviation for a centerboard boom – 1. the horizontal spar attached to the mast to support the foot (bottom part) of the sail. 2. The sound made when the crew fails to duck when the boom moves across the boat boom crutch -- a notched board or X-shaped frame that supports the boom and keeps it from swinging when the sail is not raised. boat hook – a short shaft with a fitting at one end shaped to allow (a) a line to be put over a piling, (b) an object dropped overboard to be recovered, or (c) pushing or fending off bolt rope –a line attached to the foot and/or luff of a sail to give it strength or to substitute for sail slides boom vang –(also downhaul) a tackle running from the boom to the deck which will flatten the curve of the sail by pulling downward on the boom bottom – 1. the boat’s hull under the water, or underbody. 2. submerged land bow -- forward end of a boat bowline – a knot used to form a temporary loop in the end of a line. It is formed by passing the bitter end of a line through a loop, around the line, and back through the loop. It has superior holding power and releases easily. bridle – 1. a rope span with ends secured for the sheet block to ride upon (noun). 2. to be upset when it doesn’t ride upon the block (verb). broach -- a turning or swinging of the boat that puts the beam of the boat against the waves, creating a danger of swamping or capsizing broad reach—sailing with the wind aft of abeam bungee cords – flexible, stretchable lines to secure gear buoy -- floating object anchored in one place and used for marking a position on the water, for mooring, or for navigation (marking a hazard or shoal) burdened vessel – the boat which must give way to the privileged vessel under applicable Navigation Rules. This term has been superseded by the term “give-way” by the lee – sailing on a run with the wind coming over the same side on which the boom is trimmed. This is not a recommended point of sail because it could cause an accidental jibe. This could lead in turn to a “boom” (second definition above) by the wind – sailing close hauled or beating calm – little or no wind can buoy -- a green buoy shaped like a can used to mark a channel and given an odd number canvas -- slang for sail. Originally sails were made solely of canvas capsize – to turn over a boat in the water careen – to place a boat on her side so that work may be carried out on her underwater parts. carry away – to break or tear loose cast off – to let a line go center of effort – the point in the sail plan that is the balance point for all the aerodynamic forces center of lateral resistance – the point in the hull underbody that is the balance point for all the hydrodynamic forces centerboard – a fin housed in a centerboard trunk that can be raised or lowered through a slot in the bottom of a boat to help overcome a boat’s lateral motion (leeway) centerboard pendant – the line used to raise and lower the centerboard. On the Thistle, there are two two adjustment pendants: (1) one running forward which exits at the forward end of the centerboard trunk and is used to raise the centerboard, and (2) the second which exits on top of the forward end of the trunk and is used to lower the centerboard centerline – an imaginary line that runs down the middle of the boat from bow to stern chafe – to damage a line by rubbing chainplates – metal plates bolted to the side of a boat to which shrouds are attached to support the rigging chine—the intersection between the topsides and boat’s bottom chocks -- a heavy metal fitting fixed to the deck of a boat through which a line for mooring, towing, or anchor rode is passed chop – short, steep waves claw off – to clear a lee shore cleat -- a fitting (often anvil shaped) for securing a line clear the decks -- remove unnecessary items from the decks clevis pin – a large pin that secures one fitting to another clew -- the back (aft) lower corner of the sail to which the sheets are attached close hauled – sailing as close to the wind as is efficient (about 45 degrees from the eye of the wind for most boats) close reach -- sailing with the sheets slightly eased and the apparent wind forward of the beam close winded –description of a craft capable of sailing very close to the wind clove hitch -- two half hitches, used to temporarily fasten a line to a spar or piling coaming – the raised protection around a cockpit cockpit – the hollow or well in the center of the boat, behind the mast, where the skipper and crew often sit. coil – to arrange a line in loops so it can be stowed coming about – the changing of course when close hauled by swinging the bow through the eye of the wind and changing from one tack to another come up – 1. swing the bow closer to the eye of the wind. 2. the command to do that maneuver cotter pin – a small pin that secures a clevis pin and keeps the turnbuckle from unwinding course – 1. compass heading. 2. the angle of (direction in which) the boat in sailing. 3. the sequence of buoys rounded in a race crabbing – 1. going sideways due to set. 2. catching crabs cringle – a metal ring worked into a sail crew – all who help sail a boat except for the skipper crutch – see boom crutch

Cunningham -- a line or hook that is pulled downward on a grommeted hole in the mainsail luff slightly above the foot to exert stress on the luff, thereby flattening the sail current – the horizontal movement of water, caused by tidal change or wind or both dead ahead -- directly ahead (in a morbid kind of way) dead astern -- directly aft deadhead -- a floating log or a stupid person deathroll – wild, rolling oscillations of the entire boat when running dead downwind in heavy air depower – to lessen heeling forces by making sails less full or allowing them to luff dinghy -- a small open boat, used (among other things) for going to moored boats and then ashore displacement – 1. the weight of a boat. 2. the body of water in which the boat sits while tied up to a float or pier

douse – to lower the sails quickly

downhaul – a line attached to the boom at the tack area of the sail in order to pull the luff of the sail downward downwind – away from the direction where the wind is blowing draft -- water depth required to float the boat drag – 1. resistance. 2. when an anchor breaks out and skips along the bottom drift – a current’s velocity dry sailing – keeping a boat out of water when not in use ease off – to slacken or relieve the tension on a line or to reduce pull on the helm ebb -- tide passing from high to low, with the current going out to sea even keel – when a boat is floating on its designed waterline, it is “floating on an even keel” eye of the wind – the direction from which the wind is blowing fairlead -- a fitting used to change the direction of a line fall off -- to pay off to leeward or away from the wind fast – when one object is secured to another object fathom -- nautical measurement equivalent to a depth of six feet fend off – to push off fetch – 1. to sail a course that will clear a buoy or shoal. 2. the distance between an object and the windward shore. Also “lay” figure eight knot – a knot in the form of a figure eight, placed in the end of a line to prevent the line from passing through a grommet or block (stopper knot) fitting – a piece of a boat’s gear flake – to fold a sail and secure it by line or bungee cords to the boom flat sails – sails with almost no draft or flat like a board float – a floating platform, usually accessible to shore, to which a boat is tied up when docked following sea – an overtaking sea that comes from astern flood or flood tide-- incoming tidal current foot – 1.the lower edge of the sail (noun) 2. to steer slightly lower than close-hauled to increase boat speed (verb) flotsam -- floating items of a ship or its cargo at sea, floating debris fore and aft – in the direction of the keel, from front (bow) to back (stern) foredeck -- the forward part of a boat's main deck forefoot – the forward part of the keel, adjoining the lower part of the stern foresail – the sail set forward of the mast forestay – a wire that runs from the top (or near the top) of the mast to the bow and is used to support the mast in position. It also can be used to hank on the jib luff. forward – toward the bow of a boat; to move forward is to move toward the bow frames – the skeleton of the boat, which holds the hull together and gives it support fouled – 1. any equipment that is jammed, entangled, dirty, twisted up, or just not working properly (adjective) (a common occurrence when sailing). 2. to violate a racing rule (verb) foul language -- what a sailor uses when the equipment is fouled free – sailing on any point of sail except close-hauled freeboard-- the minimum vertical distance from gunwale to the water full-and-by – sailing as close to the wind as possible with all the sails full. furl – to roll up or flake a sail to a boom gaff – a pole extending from a mast to support the head of the sail gear – any equipment pertaining to a sailboat gimbal – a device used for suspending the compass so it remains level give way vessel -- see burdened vessel going to weather -- to sail against the prevailing wind and seas gooseneck -- fitting that secures the forward end of the boom to the mast grommet – a small metal ring set into a sail ground tackle – the anchor and anchor rode gudgeon – the eye supports for the rudder mounted on the transom, which receive the pintles of the rudder gunwale – (pronounced gun’l) the rail at the upper edge of a boat’s sides gust – a strong puff of wind guy – 1. a line or wire used to adjust and position the spinnaker pole. 2. a male human being. halyard – a line or wire used to haul the head of a sail up the mast hank – a small snap hook used to attach the luff of a jib to the forestay. To “hank on” a sail is to hook it on the forestay using hanks hard alee—1. the movement of the helm (tiller) to the lee side of the boat when coming about. 2. the command of the skipper when making this maneuver. harden up – see “come up” haul in – to trim a sail haul around -- change from a run to a reach head (of a sail) -- upper corner of a sail head off – to alter a course to leeward, away from the wind. See also bearing off or away head to wind – the bow heading dead into the wind. See also in irons head up – see come up header – a change in wind direction which will impede progress in an intended direction, requiring the helmsman to alter course to leeward or the crew to trim the sails headsail -- a sail forward of the mast headway -- making way through the water in a forward direction heave to -- to stop forward movement by bringing the boat's bow into the wind with the jib backed (with little or no headway) heavy air – high wind velocity heel – 1. the lateral inclination of the boat or for the boat to incline or be inclined on one side (verb). 2. the support for the bottom of the mast helm – 1. the tiller controlling the rudder. 2. a boat’s tendency to head off course: with weather helm , the tendency is to head up; and with lee helm, to head off helmsman ( or helmsperson to be politically correct) -- the person who steers the boat high – 1. several degrees more than the required course. 2. pinching. 3. the exhilarating feeling caused by sailing hike or hiking out – the position a person assumes when positioned on the windward rail to help balance the heeling forces of the wind upon the sails or rigging and keep the boat on an even keel hitch – a knot used to secure a rope to another object or to another rope or to form a loop or a noose in a rope hiking strap – a strap in the cockpit that restrains a hiking sailor’s feet hoist – 1. the vertical edge of a sail (noun). 2. to haul aloft (verb) hove to - see heave to hull – the boat’s shell (without appendages) hull speed – a boat’s theoretical maximum speed, dependent on length of the hull at the waterline. A fancier definition is the maximum displacement speed. It is calculated by multiplying the square root of the boat’s waterline length by 1.34 inboard – toward the centerline of the boat or mounted inside the hull in irons – when a boat is headed into the eye of the wind, with little or no wind pressure on either side of the sails, and no headway or sternway

Jack-Tar -- a sailor from the clipper ship days, so named because they would tar their hair to prevent infection and make it easy to cut jetty – a protuberance in the water, sometimes a wharf or pier, but also any manmade structure, either on top of or under the water jetsam – debris or jettisoned items floating at sea jib -- a foresail or the forward most sail jib sheet – the line, usually paired, attached to the clew of the jib and controlling the lateral movement of the jib jibstay – a wire supporting the mast to which the luff of the jib is attached jibe – (also gybe) the maneuver of changing tacks by heading off until the mainsail swings across the stern jury rig – 1. to improvise a replacement for damaged gear (nautical). 2. to corrupt a jury (legal, or rather illegal) keel – a heavy fin filled usually with lead ballast under the hull, which prevents the boat from side slipping by resisting the lateral force of the wind to give the boat stability ketch – a two masted sailing vessel with a small after mast stepped forward of the rudderpost knockdown – when a boat is laid over on its beam ends by wind or seas, allowing water to come over the gunwale knot -- a measure of speed equal to one nautical mile (equivalent to 1.15 miles or 6076 feet ) per hour. Also, any of various tangles of line formed by methodically passing the bitter end (free end) through loops and drawing it tight land breeze – a wind blowing from the shore to the (warmer) water lanyard – a line fastened to an object, such as a pail, whistle, knife or other small tool for purposes of securing it lateral resistance – the resistance to the leeway or sideways movement of a boat caused by wind or wave forces determined by the amount of heel and the amount of keel or centerboard below the waterline launch – to move a boat from land into the water lay – see fetch lay a mark – to be able to reach a mark without tacking, close hauled laylines – imaginary lines from a mark on which a boat can lay its objective to reach that mark lazy – 1. equipment, often lines,, not in use (nautical). 2. a person who is not very energetic (everyday) lead – 1. a block for a jib sheet. 2. to pass a line through a block lee – 1. the side away from the direction of the wind. lee bow – when the current is pushing the boat to windward lee helm – see “helm” lee shore -- a shore that wind blows onto; stay well off a lee shore in a storm leech -- the trailing (back) edge of a sail leeward -- away from the wind leeway -- a boat’s lateral motion, caused by either wind or current or both leg – 1. the portion of a racecourse from one mark to the next. 2. the portion of the body below the buttocks lift – a wind shift, causing an increase in heel of a boat close-hauled, allowing the boat to sail closer to the wind (head up) or requiring the crew to ease the sheets to keep it on an even keel line – any length of rope that has a specific nautical use list -- inclination of a boat due to excess weight on one side or the other luff— 1. the forward edge of a sail or the windward edge of a spinnaker (noun). 2. the action of heading up into the wind and causing that edge of the sail to flutter (verb). luffing-- the sound of the flutttering of the luff of the sail (adverb) luff up – see harden up lull – a relatively calm period between wind gusts mainmast – the principal mast of a sailboat mainsail -- the main sail of the boat set off the mast and boom mainsheet – the sheet controlling the athwartships movement of a mainsail mark – a buoy used in a race course marlinespike -- a pointed metal tool for separating the strands of a rope in splicing mast – a pole, usually supported by standing rigging, from which sails are set masthead – the top of the mast masthead fly – a wind direction indicator at the masthead mast step – (also heel or butt) the support for the bottom of the mast. midships -- the location approximately equal distant from the bow and stern of the boat (also called amidships) mizzen – the shorter mast aft on a ketch or yawl mooring -- a buoy emplaced with a pennant and an anchor, and providing a tie off for a boat mooring pennant – a line used to secure a boat to a mooring, which is permanently attached to the buoy’s ring. northeastern – wind coming from the northeast (pronounced “nor’easter”) nun buoy -- a red buoy with a conical top, numbered evenly, and found on the starboard side on entering a channel obstruction – any object (buoy, boat, shoal, jetty, etc.) requiring a course alteration to pass it on one side off the wind – sailing downwind (away from the eye of the wind) offshore -- 1. from the land to the water. 2. out of sight of land old salt -- a very experienced or old sailor (or both) onboard -- on the boat onshore – from the water to the (warmer) land. outboard – towards the side of a boat outhaul – a line, block, or tackle that secures the clew of a boomed sail and adjusts the tension along its foot overboard – over the side or out of the boat. A cry of “Man overboard!” means that a person has left the confines of the boat and is in the water overpowered – heeling too far and difficult to steer overstand – to lay or fetch a buoy or shoal with room to spare overtaking – coming up from astern and about to pass another boat painter – a line attached to the bow of a boat for use in towing or making fast pay off – to turn the bow away from the wind pay out -- to slacken a line or let it out in a controlled manner pennant (or pendant) – the line used to make a boat fast to a mooring

PFD – a Personal Floatation Device, the U.S. Coast Guard term for a life jacket pinching—sailing so close to the wind that the sails luff or stall pintle – the pin secured to the rudder into the gudgeon as a swinging support for the rudder on the transom of the boat pitch -- plunging of a vessel fore and aft pitchpole—when a boat flips over end over end with the stern of the boat coming over the bow plane – a boat skipping up and across the bow wave rather than through the water play – 1. to trim a sheet constantly. 2. a loose fitting. 3. what pleasure sailors do and what racing sailors must learn to do point – to sail close to the wind pointing angle – the angle when beating between the the wind and the direction the boat is heading pointing high – beating very close to the wind, at a small pointing angle pointing low – beating with a larger pointing angle, farther away from the wind, for more speed points of sail – close hauled, reaching, and running pooped – 1. having a wave wash over the stern of the boat. 2. being extremely tired port – 1. the left side of the boat looking forward. 2. a harbor 3. a small round window on a boat port tack—a course with the wind coming from the port side and the boom on the starboard side of the boat pound – crashing heavily down on waves priviliged vessel – a boat which has the right of way under applicable Navigation Rules. This term has been superseded by the term “stand-on” pull -- in rowing, to row an oar, putting your back into it puff – a quick, local gust of wind quarter -- the side of a boat aft of the middle of the boat and forward of the stern quartering sea – sea coming on a boat’s quarters rake – 1. the angle of a boat’s mast from the vertical. 2. a very besotted, devilish, and wild living individual rail -- top of the bulwarks or the outer edge of the deck range lights – two or more lights at different elevations so situated to form a range (leading line) when brought into transit. The one nearest the observer is the front light and the one farthest is the rear light, with the front light at a lower elevation than the rear light reaching -- sailing a course between close hauled and running, subdivided into close, beam, and broad reach ready about – the preparatory command given before “hardalee” when tacking (passing the bow through the eye of the wind) reef -- to shorten sail, usually by partially lowering it and tying it off with reefing lines

Rhumb Line -- 1. the most direct course between two points. 2. the line formed by the crew for its daily intake of rum (grog to the old salts) rig – 1. a boat’s upper works (noun). 2. to set up the spars and standing and running rigging of a sailboat (verb) rigging – the gear used to support and adjust the sails. Standing rigging refers to shrouds and stays. Running rigging refers to halyards, topping lifts, downhauls, boom vangs, sheets, travelers, and other devices used to raise, control, and adjust the sails right of way – the legal authority to stay on the present course (but avoid a collision) righting moment – combination of forces of gravity and buoyancy and leverage arm that resists healing. roach – 1. the area aft of an imaginary straight line running between the head and the clew of a sail. 2. shorthand for a cockroach. rode - the line or chain attached to the anchor roller - a wave rudder – the fin hinged to the stern of the vessel used to steer the boat run or running – 1. sailing before the wind or directly downwind. 2. to allow a line to feed freely running rigging – see rigging sail power – force from the sails, which is increased by increasing the curvature fo the sail or bearing off and reduced by luffing or flattening the sail sails – flexible vertical airfoils, usually make of cloth, that use wind pressure to propel a boat scope -- the ratio between the amount of anchor rode let out and the depth of the water sculling – moving the tiller or an oar back and forth to propel a boat ahead sea breeze – see onshore breeze sea room – 1. a safe distance from the shore or other hazards. 2. a command or shout by one boat to advise another boat that it needs room to avoid such a hazard seaway – an area with rough or moderate waves secure – to make fast set – 1. to raise a sail. 2. the direction of the tide or current. 3. incorporated into (as in “set into a grommet”) shackle -- a metal “U” shaped link with a pin or bolt across the open end which can be opened and closed for joining chain to anchor, joining a halyard to the head of a sail, etc. shake out – to let out a reef and hoist the sail sheave – the grooved wheel or roller in a block that rotates on a sheave pin or center pin sheet -- the line used to control the forward or athwartship movement of a sail ship in seas -- take in seas shoal – dangerously shallow water shock cord – see bungee cord shroud -- a wire that runs from the masthead (or near the masthead) to the sides of a boat to support the mast in position and help prevent it from swaying. See also sidestay and stay sidestay—a wire running from or near the top of the mast to the sides of the boat to hold the mast in position and help prevent it from swaying single-handed – sailing or other activity by one person skipper – the person in charge of the boat slack – 1. loose or not fastened (adjective). 2. to loosen or ease (verb) slack water—the state of a tidal current when its speed is near zero, especially when a reversing current changes direction and its speed is zero snap hook – a spring loaded hook used as a hank snatch block – a block that opens at the side to allow a line to be inserted or removed without reefing the entire length of line southwestern -- a wind coming from the southwest (pronounced “sou’wester”) spar – a general term for masts, booms, yards, or spinnaker poles splice – to join a rope by tucking the strands together spreader – an athwartship strut between the mast and shrouds to provide lateral support spinnaker – a large, light, ballooning headsail used when running or reaching spinnaker pole – a light spar (usually aluminum) extended from the mast and snug against the clew of the spinnaker, used to hold out the foot of the spinnaker to help it fill with wind square knot – a knot used to join two lines of similar size. Also called a reef knot. It is made by tying the bitter ends of the two lines first left over right and then right over left spring line – a line used when the boat is docked to keep her from moving forward and aft squall – a brief storm that arrives suddenly speed polar – a graph that shows the speed of a boat at all angles from the wind stall – the sailboat is not moving because the air is not drivng the boat, as when the sail is at too great an angle to the wind or is too tight to the wind. standing rigging – see rigging stand-on – see “priviliged vessel” starboard -- on the right side of the boat when looking forward starboard quarter -- the quarter of the boat towards the stern (or rear) of the boat on the right side when looking forward starboard tack – sailing with the wind coming over the starboard side of the boat and the boom out over the port side of the boat stay – the part of the standing rigging supporting the mast from forward and aft staysail – a small triangular sail used forward of the mast on a reaching course step – a socket in the bottom of the boat receiving the heel of the mast stern -- the rear or back of the boat sternway – making way through the water in a direction opposite the heading stopper knot – a knot placed in the end of a line to prevent it from passing through a grommet or block stow -- to store an item onboard in a proper place studding out a sail -- extending a sail using a whisker pole surge -- rising and falling of the sea, usually due to wave action swamped – when a boat is filled with water but hasn’t settled to the bottom tack – 1. change the sail course by bringing its bow across the wind, moving the boom to the other side of the boat when beating. 2. sailing with the wind on a given side of the boat, as in starboard tack or port tack tack (of a sail) -- forward lower corner of a sail tackle – a combination of block and line to create a mechanical advantage target boatspeed – a boatspeed attained by sailing at the angle from the wind that is equal to the optimum point on a speed polar for a given true wind telltale – 1. a piece of yarn, ribbon, or plastic line tied to the sidestays or sewn into the sails to keep the skipper and crew trim or steer. 2. to tell a tall tale, usually by an old salt tender – 1. a dinghy. 2. a boat that heels rather quickly thwart – a seat or brace running laterally across a boat tide – the periodic rise and fall of the water level in oceans and tidal areas from the gravitational pull of the moon and sun tiller -- the wooden or metal steering arm attached to the rudder, and used to turn it tiller extension – a pivoting extension attached to the tiller to enable the skipper to steer while hiking out or while seated amidships the three Rs -- Red, Right, Returning thimble – an iron ring grooved on the outside for a rope grommet tidal current – horizontal flow of water caused by the rise and fall of the water due to tides three sheets to the wind – 1. when all the sails are luffing. 2.inebriated (drunk). topping lift -- a line or wire used to support the weight, or adjust the horizontal set, of a spar such as a boom or spinnaker pole topside – on deck trailing -- dragging, as in "dragging a line" transom – the athwartship running surface at the stern traveller – an athwartship running track on which a car connected to the main sheet blocks can be adjusted to change the mainsail’s angle of attack to the wind trim – 1. to adjust the sail by pulling in a sheet (verb). 2. the position of the sails relative to the wind (noun). 3. the set of a sail. 4. the bow up or down attitude of a boat when at rest true wind – the wind speed and direction at a stationary point tune – to adjust a boat’s standing rigging, sails, and hull to proper balance to assure the best sailing performance twist – the falling to leeward of the upper leech of a sail, such as the battens not being parallel in a “twisted” sail under way -- moving under power of sail or motor upwash – wind direction change near the bow caused the sails downstream upwind – toward the direction where the wind is blowing veer or veering wind– a clockwise shift in the wind direction

VMG – velocity made good or progress to windward

VPP – velocity prediction program computerized, or mathematical models of sailboat performance wake—waves made by a boat waterline – an imaginary line around the hull at the surface of the water when the boat is on an even keel weather – the state of the atmosphere at a certain time and place weather helm – see helm well found – well equipped whip – to bind the strands of a line’s end with yarn or cord whisker pole -- a light spar extending from the mast and used to hold out the clew of the jib when sailing off the wind white cap— a crest of a wave which becomes unstable in deep water, toppling over or “breaking”. If a wave becomes unstable due to shallow water, it is called a “breaker” winch -- mechanical device for hauling in a line windward – upwind wing on wing -- running before the wind with sails on opposite sides, such as the main on one side of the boat and the jib on the other working sails – the regular sails on a boat yacht – a general term for a boat used solely for the personal pleasure of the owner yawl – 1. a two-masted boat with a small after mast located abaft of the steering gear. 2. a Southern expression of the plural of the word “you”

Copyright New Castle Sailing Club 2010