WIDER DABAH CIRCLE DABAH JEWEL TONE E-COMMERCE SERVICE DUO JEWELRY DESIGNER HAIM DABAH FIRM SHOPRUNNER ADDS BAO BAO WAN UNVEILS LAUNCHES HDS RETAIL PARTNERS, FROM A COLOR COSMETICS CAPITAL WITH HIS BERGDORF GOODMAN COLLECTION WITH MAC. SON TO INVEST IN TO TORY BURCH. PAGE 2 PAGE 2 TECH START-UPS. PAGE 3

BRANDS RUSH IN Oil-Rich Kazakhstan’s Growing Luxury World

By JOELLE DIDERICH

ALMATY, Kazakhstan — High above the smog of Almaty stands the 37-story Esentai Tower, providing unparalleled views of the snowcapped Tien Shan mountain range that borders Kazakhstan’s most pop- ulous city. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Central Asia’s tallest building, which sits in an WWD area often rocked by earthquakes, refl ects both the ambitions of real estate developer Capital Partners and the country’s thriving market for luxury goods. The tower was designed by Skidmore, Owings & Merrill, the American architects behind the Burj Khalifa in Dubai. The mixed-use Esentai Park complex has brought an unprecedented level of opulence to the former Soviet city, from the Esentai Mall and its gleaming Louis Vuitton, Prada and Dior stores to the year-old Ritz-Carlton, Almaty hotel, not to mention the luxury condominiums that sold for $15,000 a square meter, rivaling real estate prices in the most coveted neigh- borhoods of Paris. The mall, which celebrated its second anniversary late last month with a glittering party, is about to un- dergo a further upgrade as the battle for the local lux- ury customer heats up against a backdrop of economic uncertainty in neighboring Russia. Powder Coated Capital Partners, which has invested $1 billion in A good classic needn’t be typecast. The trenchcoat is the tower and mall so far, plans to spend an extra $30 million to increase its offer of luxury brands and up- everywhere for spring, but not always in “Casablanca” khaki. grade key elements of the mall, which is anchored by Rebecca Taylor gives the ultimate no-nonsense outerwear a Saks Fifth Avenue store. Spaces that previously housed more accessible la- piece a feminine turn in powder blue, highlighting the power bels, such as Mango and Promod, have been boarded up of pretty. Her linen and cotton trench tops a cotton as the mall prepares to welcome a cache of fresh luxury T-shirt and polyester skirt with a fl irtatious pleated hem. brands. The project also includes a new ground-fl oor jewelry and watch area with its own VIP entrance. “We realized the mall is not big enough to accom- modate two different concepts: luxury and mass SEE PAGE 4 Martin Greenfield: Men’s Wear Maestro By LORNA KOSKI

MASTER MEN’S wear maker Martin Greenfield knows better than just about anybody that clothes cre- ate the man, so that’s why it’s not surprising his new autobiography, “Measure of a Man: A Memoir, From Auschwitz Survivor to Presidents’ Tailor,” begins with a view of highly polished men’s footwear. “I could see my picture in the boots,” he recalled. The boots were more elegant than any Greenfi eld had ever seen, and they belonged to Josef Mengele, the Nazi doctor infamous for his grotesque, criminal med- ical experiments. Mengele, who was also handsome and impeccably dressed, was about to do a selection on Greenfi eld’s family at Auschwitz. Unlike most of the other high-ranking Nazis, who avoided the duty, Mengele enjoyed doing selections, eagerly seizing the opportunity to choose the subjects he was most interested in and who included identical twins, dwarfs and those with eyes of different colors. Greenfi eld, then called Maximilian Grünfeld, his fa- ther, Joseph, and sister Simcha were sent to the right — which meant life, at least for a time — while his mother, Tzyvia, sister Rivka and baby brother, Sruel Baer, were sent to the left, which meant immediate death. Of course, they had no idea of this at the time. Greenfi eld, now 86, was also in the slave labor camp Buna and in the concentration camps Gleiwitz and Buchenwald. He managed to survive the war, the only member of his immediate family to do so. He last saw his father on his second day at Auschwitz, when Joseph, PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE MODEL: GIA/ONE MANAGEMENT; HAIR BY MARCEL DAGENAIS USING ORIBE HAIR CARE/ LVA ARTISTS; MAKEUP BY SOPHIE HAIG FOR DIOR BEAUTY/BA-REPS.COM; FASHION ASSISTANT: MILTON DIXON MILTON ASSISTANT: FASHION SOPHIE HAIG FOR DIOR BEAUTY/BA-REPS.COM; MAKEUP BY ARTISTS; DAGENAIS USING ORIBE HAIR CARE/ LVA MARCEL HAIR BY MODEL: GIA/ONE MANAGEMENT; SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2014 WWD.COM ShopRunner Beefs Up Partnerships THE BRIEFING BOX

By RACHEL STRUGATZ IN TODAY’S WWD

NEW YORK — The service wars in the e-commerce space are heating up. With the holiday shopping season closing in, members-only e-commerce service ShopRunner is substantially bulking up its retail partnerships. The four-year-old company has added 15 new brands — Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus Last Call, Narciso Rodriguez, Rebecca Taylor, Eddie Bauer, Tory Burch and The Limited among them — to the existing 150 partners it works with. Call it an Amazon Prime for the rest of the Web. Brands can take advantage of ShopRunner’s benefits — like free two-day shipping, two-click checkout and ShopRunner has added 15 new brands for the holiday season. free return shipping — and in turn, offer this to their customers. The hope is that a better customer-ser- ShopRunner not only surpassed aggressive cus- vice experience will lure shoppers in and keep them tomer acquisition goals, but these consumers came coming back. Starting this month, ShopRunner’s two back multiple times — and purchased repeatedly. million members will have access to these services At a time when everyone is fighting for the wal- when shopping on Shoprunner.com, the correspond- let share of an increasingly knowledgeable con- KEENAN/GETTY IMAGES FOR IRENE NEUWIRTH STEFANIE ing mobile app or any of its partner sites. Retailers sumer online, ShopRunner is perhaps in a better Irene Neuwirth at her boutique opening. pay ShopRunner a revenue share for the orders that position than most. For more, see page 7 and WWD.com.

ShopRunner members make. That percentage varies For one thing, the four-year-old venture has PHOTO BY depending on the category and partner. deep pockets: Alibaba pumped $200 million into Upon its launch in October 2010, there were ShopRunner last year, and other investors include already 15 partner sites, including Calvin Klein American Express and Kynetic. In addition to bank- Central Asia’s tallest building, the Esentai Tower, reflects both Underwear, Ecko, Bare Necessities, Toys ‘R’ Us. ing on an elevated level of service to win consumers the ambitions of real estate developer Capital Partners and the GNC and Sports Authority. over, it’s also leveraged a deal with Alibaba-owned country’s thriving market for luxury goods. PAGE 1 Scott Thompson, ShopRunner chief executive offi- Alipay ePass to facilitate Chinese consumers buying cer, said the service is proving to be a powerful custom- from its partner e-commerce sites in the U.S. Men’s wear maker Martin Greenfield knows better than just er-acquisition channel for brands that participate. He Payment systems have been front and center in about anybody that clothes create the man. PAGE 1 explained that before signing a contract, ShopRunner recent weeks — from the release of ApplePay to matches its member files with those of the potential PayPal being spun off from eBay into a stand-alone For Haim Dabah, a pioneer in apparel manufacturing and partner to see if there is any overlap in active custom- entity — and ShopRunner’s relationship with ePass brand building, technology is his next frontier. PAGE 3 ers. Typically, there is less than 5 percent overlap, gives it access to Alibaba’s payment arm that has which means that there is ample opportunity — or a 95 hundreds of millions of users. percent chance — that the customer ShopRunner will Thompson confirmed that the company will use H&M today opens a flagship at 77 Boulevard Saint- introduce to one’s site is an entirely new one. ePass’ core payment and logistics services, but also Germain near Boulevard Saint-Michel, which it hopes will “That becomes interesting because then you will continue to increase ShopRunner’s own market- become a top revenue driver in France. PAGE 3 know if we’re good at marketing to our members,” ing efforts — it maintains a team in Shanghai — on Thompson told WWD on Wednesday. “That baseline and off Alibaba’s platforms to grow larger customer Jewelry designer Irene Neuwirth has built a mini empire is very important for measuring the return on your bases in China. on her colorful baubles, which have earned a cult following investment here. It’s hard to measure ROI on market- “When someone comes [to an American Web over the last decade. PAGE 6 ing spend — and almost impossible on advertising.” site] from China — none of their personal informa- He explains the firm created this baseline be- tion conforms to the U.S. checkout experience,” To celebrate its 130th anniversary, Hanro of Switzerland cause it establishes a more scientific way to mea- Thompson said, adding that ShopRunner takes the will unveil a commemorative exhibition and capsule sure results. “It’s a telling step for us because the information about an individual, translates it, and collection in its Meatpacking District store. PAGE 6 proof is in the data,” Thompson said. allows the payment to happen where it wouldn’t be Ask Neiman Marcus, which is now adding possible otherwise, down to translating currency Le Bon Marché has unveiled its new men’s floor, spread its Web properties for Last Call and Bergdorf and the exact, final cost. across the historic building’s basement, following three Goodman to ShopRunner’s list of leading retailers. Optimistic for the year to come, Thompson predict- years of remodeling. PAGE 10 John Koryl, president of Neiman Marcus stores and ed that ShopRunner’s amount of partners will double, online, confirmed that in a little more than a year, with another 15 being launched for the holidays. Eddie Bauer will unveil today a 1,500-square-foot unit in the Flatiron District at 100 Fifth Avenue at 15th Street, seven years after it closed its last Manhattan store. PAGE 10

Bao Bao Wan Collaborates With MAC Style.com is under the Vogue umbrella again as the year, shot Wan for the campaign. To mark the col- fashion Web site’s editor in chief and publisher are By SAMANTHA CONTI lection, a short film, directed by the photographer reporting in to Vogue’s higher-ups. PAGE 11 and cinematographer Wing Shya, features Wan as LONDON — Fine jewelry designer and fashion the romantic lead. U.S. authorities said Wednesday they seized an estimated front-row fixture Bao Bao Wan is doing a one-off Wan claimed she found the part to be particular- $1.8 million in counterfeit Hermès Birkin handbags at the collaboration with MAC Cosmetics. ly difficult. “It’s a love story, and I had to act — and Port of Savannah, Ga., last month. PAGE 11 The Beijing native, who is a I discovered that I cannot hug a Dior ambassador in China, plans to strange man,” she said, adding that unveil a limited-edition, jewelry- a professional orchestra provided ON WWD.COM inspired color cosmetics collection the music for the film. that will land on counters in 33 Wan also designed the packaging IRENE NEUWIRTH: Jewelry designer Irene Neuwirth has countries and territories in March. and said her job as a jeweler helped. opened her first boutique. For more, see WWD.com. The collection will be available for “When you design jewelry, you have four weeks. to match material with color and de- “It’s all about gemstones and cide how you want your ‘picture’ to the colors that I love,” Wan told look. That picture became the pack- FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA WWD. She called the color palette aging,” she recounted. @ WWD.com/social “easy” and said it will work on a Wan, who studied photography variety of skin tones. at Sarah Lawrence College in New TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS “I’m very conservative with York, designs high-end jewelry and [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. makeup color, and I’m very much also has a collection of more acces- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. about gold shades. I used my logic sibly priced items called And the VOLUME 208, NO. 95. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, and my senses: I didn’t want any Little Ones. The tiny charms, which Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. crazy colors in the collection, and I measure one square centimeter, are PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Fl, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, wanted it to be practical and to suit made from diamonds and colored and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, every skin tone,” Wan said. Bao Bao Wan for MAC. stones and shaped like cameras, bi- Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write The MAC Bao Bao Wan cycles, teapots, eye glasses and guns. to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For Hand Delivery Service address Collection includes five shades of gold eye shadow, Wan, a free spirit whose ponytail is currently changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us including green gold and oxidized rose gold, which tie-dyed blue, pink and white, said she felt right that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. take their cues from the precious metal that Wan at home at MAC. “I had total creative freedom. I If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within uses in her jewelry. had an immediate connection with [MAC senior four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, There are four lipsticks and three nail polishes vice president and group creative director] James 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media, 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, — all inspired by gemstones — and a beauty pow- Gager,” said Wan, adding that he too did not inter- please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to der. “ Yo u can make your own jewelry on your face,” fere in her creative process. “ Yo u could create the other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, she said. Wan and MAC declined to reveal the spe- most impractical yellow, and MAC would make it.” UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS AND TRANSPARENCIES), cifics of the color palette and packaging. The collection will launch to Asian press in OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY The photographer Chen Man, an old friend of Hong Kong on Dec. 4, and Wan said a gala dinner is WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Wan’s who did her own collaboration with MAC last planned in Beijing for the end of January. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2014 3 The escalators at WWD.COM the new store. visitors, who may then return to their local H&M, whether in England, Japan or other cities in France,” Lourenço added. The store features a new design con- cept in a palette of stone, beige and white. Lighting fixtures include an LED screen above the main entrance; a ceiling cov- ered with exposed light bulbs in the trend section of the women’s department and a large light box over the escalator banks, which are flanked by a glass wall featur- ing a design by illustrator Lovisa Burfitt. Groups of mannequins are dotted throughout the store and a greater propor- The women’s department of the H&M tion of the merchandise is hung facing for- store on Boulevard Saint-Germain. ward. The unit will test new service con- cepts such as greeters, and its 86 staffers will be more clearly identifiable. “We want customers to be able to choose the level of service they want,” the executive said. The store will also be one of the first in France to offer its department heads and visual merchandisers training programs that result in official qualifications. H&M has more than 200 stores in France, including 191 H&M units, 14 COS stores, one & Other Stories unit (with a second to open in Paris on Nov. 14), and one each for its Monki and Cheap Monday banners. Lourenço said the fast-fash- FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE ion giant plans to open addition- al H&M stores in larger cities DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE WWD.com/ next year, including a new flag- retail-news. ship in Nice in a space formerly The men’s department. occupied by a Virgin Megastore. PHOTOS BY It also plans to enter medium- sized cities including Dax, Millau, Vichy, Lens and La Rochelle. H&M Unveils Its New Paris Flagship As it continues to expand its range of concepts, such as its beefed-up H&M Saint-Michel, which it hopes will become Thomas Lourenço, managing direc- Sport collection, the retailer is target- By JOELLE DIDERICH one of its top revenue drivers in France. tor of H&M France, said the store aims ing spaces that average 16,000 to 21,500 At around 27,000 square feet, the to attract local residents, students and square feet, versus 11,000 to 16,000 PARIS — Hennes & Mauritz has a new unit is the retailer’s second-largest tourists. “It’s an important store for us in square feet previously, Lourenço said. beacon on the Left Bank, a burgeoning in Paris. It also has one of the largest terms of image, because it really repre- H&M is also looking for additional loca- district for fashion retailers. product offerings of any H&M store in sents the best of H&M,” he said. tions in the French capital. The Swedish high-street retailer today France, with collections for women, “We have invested even more resources “I’m thinking for instance of the opens a new flagship at 77 Boulevard men, juniors and children spread over and energy in this store because, in addi- Bastille and République areas. We think

Saint-Germain, a stone’s throw from the three floors, and an expanded shoe se- tion to selling clothes, it needs to project a there is still quite a lot of potential in tourist and student enclave of Boulevard lection for women and men. positive image of the brand and to inspire Paris,” he said.

jeans is doing well after being down for

Haim Dabah Getting Technical a couple of years, or that silver bib neck- laces are trending,” said Rohan Deuskar, rience and are visionary and passionate founder and ceo of Stylitics. He said By DAVID MOIN about what they do. Two of our lead in- 200,000 people, 90 percent of whom are vestments, Linc and Stylitics, are data women in the U.S., have downloaded the FOR HAIM DABAH, a pioneer in apparel driven, and we like that space.” app, and that a total of 1,200 brands and manufacturing and brand building, tech- “The key to investing is always the peo- retailers are receiving the data. nology is his next frontier. ple,” added Haim’’ Dabah. “You’ve got to The two-and-a-half-year-old Cosmic Dabah and his son Mac have formed like the people. I love helping young peo- Cart enables shoppers to buy directly HDS Capital to invest in tech startups. ple make their ideas come to life. They from different sites and apps with one So far, they’ve invested in six, including need guidance, access and [industry] rela- universal checkout, and helps digital Linc Global, Stylitics and Cosmic Cart. tionships to make their ideas come to life. publishers, including apps and blogs, HDS also targets venture funds and “ac- “Ideally, I like to invest with people monetize their media. “We look at HDS celerator” companies that work to grow on their second go-round. Even if the as a strategic investor with deeply rooted other companies. HDS has stakes in the first venture was not successful, it’s fashion experience,” said Alex Adelman, Elevator Fund, an accelerator in Tel Aviv, still OK because of having had that Cosmic Cart’s cofounder and ceo. and in two big venture funds, Greycroft experience. Obviously, the investment The Dabahs said they take “a portfolio Partners and Metamorphic Ventures. should be in something I understand approach,” anticipating that not all the “It’s a very unusual model,” said and something that is compelling. I investments will be home runs. “There Dabah, who left his job at Global Brands write checks between $100,000 and $5 ERICKSEN could be some very good ideas and very

Group a month ago for his career switch. million. We are giving them money and KYLE good people behind them, and they may The entrepreneurial Dabah is known guidance,” he said. Haim and Mac Dabah not resonate,” said Haim Dabah. “Sorting for his private-brand projects and for through the huge volume of ideas and developing Gitano along with his broth- PHOTO BY figuring out which will likely resonate ers Ezra and Isaac, which peaked into a “Linc anticipates your questions. For means doing some hard homework. Even major denim label for the mass market Data, along with example, you can click on a delivery wid- if it’s a great idea, it’s a question of wheth- in the Eighties. Dabah later founded get, and it will tell you where your prod- er the execution is right. That’s two things Regatta USA which has developed la- satisfying consumers, uct is,” in the delivery process. Linc also that could go against you. That said, tech- bels for retailers including the Simply assists consumers with product assembly, nology is the way consumers are living Vera by Vera Wang and Daisy Fuentes is where the money is. warranties and other post-purchase con- their lives today.” lines for Kohl’s and Ellen Tracy and cerns. “There’s a large void in terms of Dabah didn’t seem particularly wistful Karl Lagerfeld for Macy’s. In 2007, — MAC DABAH how businesses are taking care of their about shifting from fashion and manufac- Regatta was sold to LF USA, which ear- customers,” said Cheng. “They are still turing to tech, though HDS keeps him at lier this year spun its Global Brands pretty much using what they have been “the intersection of fashion retail and business, including Regatta, into a sepa- One of the beneficiaries is Linc, a post- using for decades — a phone number, an mobile,” he said. rate public company. purchase customer service currently in a e-mail or a big form.” “It’s been not quite four weeks since I At HDS Capital, Mac Dabah scouts pilot phase. “Because we are so technol- Stylitics, another HDS investment, is left my day job and I don’t miss it at all,” tech investments, does the initial screen- ogy-focused, we want mentorship from a personal style management platform he said. “For the traditional wholesale ing and due diligence, and brings the people who have a deep understanding of that operates like a digital closet, help- business model, the expiration date has concept to his father, who meets with brands and how brands want to connect ing people track their purchases, know past. Twenty years ago you could have a the team to see if he can add value to with their customer base. Haim sits on what’s in their closets, what they wore wholesale company with 20 labels that the business. Deals also flow through the that side of the table,” said Fang Cheng, and when, and suggest items that haven’t could be successful. It’s not as exciting venture funds and recommendations by the founder and chief executive officer been worn in awhile. It also provides a anymore. I need to do something more the founders of current investments. of Linc. Cheng, who sold her touchscreen stream of data to retailers, for trend spot- exciting. I want to be involved in some- “Data, along with satisfying consum- startup TouchCo to Amazon in 2010, said ting and sharing fashion information thing I am passionate about....I love Uber. ers, is where the money is,” Mac Dabah Linc provides quicker interactions be- with consumers. “For brands and retail- It took an old traditional business model, said, describing the HDS investment tween consumers and brands and is ers, Stylitics provides a real-time view the car service, and automated it in a way strategy. “We like game-changing tech- geared to help companies ’’build loyalty and of the marketplace to alert them early that is much more effective today. I wish I nology with those who have some expe- reduce their costs of conducting service. to what’s trending, like what style of invested in it.” 4 WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2014 Kazakhstan’s Thriving Luxury

{Continued from page one} in 2012 through its subsidiary Viled market,” explained Vladimir Sarybekov, Fashion, which is the licensee for the general director of Capital Partners. Saks Fifth Avenue store and also oper- Plugging extra cash into a retail project ates boutiques in the mall for Gucci, at such an early stage is unusual, but the Dolce & Gabbana, Ralph Lauren, Giorgio developer is taking a long-term view and Armani and Loro Piana. counting on the advantages of being the Kopytin said the group initially prime mover. thought the devaluation of the tenge “What you get, you’re going to get would cause it to miss its 2014 target for alone. Yo u don’t have to compete, but of fashion retail sales, but its results are course the risk of failure is quite high. now ahead of expectations. That’s where you really have to be very “Of course, it has had an impact on professional, to identify the strategy, the us, but not as much as we expected sev- project parameters and the timing. It’s eral months ago,” he said, noting that, to quite a challenging business, but we are limit sticker shock, Viled passed on price in it for the long run, and so far we have increases to consumers over a period of been quite successful,” said Sarybekov. several months. “Maybe another two, three years is “Here in Almaty, we believe that this what we need to make this project 100 year will bring around 5 percent to 7 percent complete from the concept per- percent growth for fashion retail. Maybe spective, from the cash-flow perspective, next year, it will be between 5 percent profitability and the operation,” he added. and 10 percent, which is not bad com- Kazakhstan would appear to be fertile pared to what is happening in some terrain for luxury players. The world’s other neighboring countries. Of course, ninth-largest country by area, it possess- it’s not easy because the competition is es huge reserves of fossil fuels and abun- growing, even inside of our group. We dant supplies of other minerals and met- have a lot of brands, which creates a nice als, such as uranium, copper and zinc. brand matrix, but at the same time, it Though it has a population of just 17.3 creates better competition, better selec- million, the number of high-net-worth tion of the products,” Kopytin said. individuals is rapidly growing. Defined He added that, in line with expecta- as people with wealth of $1 million or tions, watch and jewelry sales would be more, this group totaled 8,100 in 2013, flat, despite a rise of 10 percent in 2013; up 77 percent versus 2007, according to but growth is set to resume over the next WealthInsight, which provides data on three to five years. Customers are gravitat- the world’s richest individuals. ing to brands with a strong heritage, such The number of ultra-HNWI individu- as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels for jew- Views of the Esentai Mall and tower. als, or those with wealth of $30 million elry and Breguet for watches, he noted. or more, also jumped 77 percent, to 179, in 2013 during this period, it said. The there,” he said, noting it was not uncom- country’s five richest citizens are all bil- mon for men to buy 10 made-to-measure lionaires (see table), including Dinara Kiton suits at once. Kulibaeva, the daughter of President “While this market was new and rel- Nursultan Nazarbayev. atively untested, some brands did not Ye t 2014 has brought with it a num- open freestanding stores when the mall ber of challenges that likely will dampen first opened. Now, because of the success sales of high-end goods such as watches of the mall and Saks, the interest is very and handbags. The price of Brent crude high, and we are expecting many luxury oil has fallen by a quarter since July, im- brands to join the project throughout the pacting the economies of all oil-produc- upgrade phase,” Burke said. ing nations, while the Russian ruble has According to Zhanybek Alkeyev, gen- weakened, triggering a 19 percent deval- eral director of Capital Partners Retail uation of the closely linked Kazakhstan Almaty, local consumers dedicate a currency, the tenge, in February. These greater portion of their budget to luxury events led to the sight of street demon- goods. “Compared with European peo- strations by disgruntled citizens — a rar- ple, Kazaks don’t have this huge habit ity in Kazakhstan, which has been ruled of saving money. They really like good with an iron fist by Nazarbayev since brands and want to spend money for lux- 1991, when the country gained its inde- ury and pleasures,” he observed. pendence from Russia. “Even people with relatively average “Kazakhstan has experienced slower incomes tend also to purchase luxury growth and higher inflation in 2014,” the brands, even if they have to save up for World Bank said in a recent report. Gross High-end stores are housed in the center. it or wait for discounts. They want to be domestic product growth slowed to 3.9 in line with world fashion trends,” said percent in the first half of 2014 from 6 Alkeyev, who manages the Esentai Mall. percent in 2013 as a whole “due to inter- On the fashion front, the Kazakhstan taste,” Kudina said. “I didn’t expect Kudina cautioned that the arrival of a nal capacity constraints in the oil indus- customer has a few surprises up her this, frankly speaking, when I moved second wave of luxury brands would fur- tr y, less favorable terms of trade and an sleeve, according to Elena Kudina, gener- from Moscow. Moscow customers and ther crowd the playing field at the mall, economic slowdown in Russia,” it added. al merchandise manager at Viled Fashion. Kazakhstan customers are really differ- especially since a majority of her custom- Industry sources predict that, after “The specialty of the market is that ent. Local [Kazakhstan] fashionistas are ers are local. posting increases of around 20 percent ready-to-wear is much more important in much more sophisticated and are much “The population [of Almaty] is only 1.5 in the past two years, luxury sales will terms of volume in comparison with acces- more well informed.” million. Consequently, there is a limited register single-digit growth in 2014, with sories,” she said, noting that, in the U.S. She said the best-performing brands buying power, and the brands will just some segments, such as luxury jewelry and Europe, aspirational customers often at Saks are Céline and Azzedine Alaïa, share this limited market capacity. It’s and watches, set to remain flat. will splash out on a designer handbag. but even lesser-known brands are getting not unlimited, definitely. There is a de- “We believe that this segment of the “In the case of Russia and other snapped up. A recent order of MSGM mand, but we need to work hard in order market — jewelry and watches — has al- [Commonwealth of Independent States] shoes has sold out, and now customers to reach the targets,” she said. most achieved maturity” in Kazakhstan, countries, we almost don’t have a middle are clamoring for Mark Cross handbags. Sarybekov was sanguine, saying, “The explained Andrey Kopytin, deputy di- class. We target a superlimited number “I think they follow Anna Dello Russo’s trend we have seen is, the more luxury rector general of the Viled Group, the of customers who can afford both ready- and other opinion-makers’ Instagram or premium brands we have pooled to- country’s largest retailer of luxury jew- to-wear and handbags, and, obviously, feeds,” Kudina said. gether, the more sales they have. So, they elry and watches with brands including they don’t need as many bags as ready-to- Her customers are evenly split be- work in synergy, and there is no cannibal- Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels wear,” she said. tween men and women — the latter ization between the brands. We see from and Harry Winston. Shortly after it opened, the Louis mainly wives, daughters and other rela- the traffic that people are traveling a lot “This means that, from a demand Vuitton store, the largest in the mall at tives of politicians and businessmen who from other cities in Kazakhstan just to point of view, we do not have a lot of 7,965 square feet, was number-one in work in the natural resources sector. come shopping.” room to grow, but it will be smooth the world in terms of rtw penetration, Robert Burke, chairman and chief ex- Indeed, developing the tourism indus- growth over the next several years. The she said. The boutique, which has a cir- ecutive officer of Robert Burke Associates, try is seen as crucial to the future growth key word I use here is ‘growth’ because I cular VIP salon inspired by a traditional which worked closely with Capital of the luxury segment. Capital Partners don’t think that a lot of people right now yurt, is one of fewer than 50 worldwide Partners and Viled Group on bringing operates the Shymbulak ski resort, which in Kazakhstan or in our part of the world to carry the brand’s latest arty collabora- brands to Esentai Mall, said Kazakhstan is near Almaty and attracts high-profile use the word ‘growth’ at all — because of tion: monogram handbags dreamed up by clients were particularly interested in ex- visitors such as Britain’s Prince Harry. the recent political problems between the likes of Cindy Sherman, Frank Gehry, clusive and limited-edition pieces. The company is mulling the creation of Russia and Ukraine and the sanctions,” Karl Lagerfeld and Rei Kawakubo. “It’s really the top luxury customers a big ski resort for international clients. he noted. “Here, from the beginning, we’ve on steroids. I mean, it’s really amazing Almaty is competing with Beijing to Viled launched into fashion retail had customers with supersophisticated how much the luxury customers spend host the 2022 Winter Olympics and stands WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2014 5 WWD.COM M arket Continues to Gain Steam

in winter and top 105 degrees in summer. Zhanel Bertayeva, cofounder of On Gogol Street, the city’s unofficial Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Almaty, luxury thoroughfare, brands such as said it was the first to invite foreign fash- The Top Five Wealthiest Rolex, Brioni and Canali have stores ion editors and photographers. For the on the ground floor of Soviet-style block latest edition, the Kazakhstan Fashion People in Kazakhstan buildings. Institute organized a series of popular Liliya Rakh, founder of Sauvage lectures at Esentai Mall on topics such Bulat Utemuratov Group, is widely credited with estab- as blogging and street-style photography. Estimated wealth: $2.39 billion lishing the local luxury market through “Our mission is to introduce Entrepreneur / Diversified her multibrand stores, buying up huge Kazakhstan designers to the world,” stocks of Alexander McQueen rtw before said Bertayeva, who runs the event Kazakhstan had registered on anyone’s with Zhamilya Abilova, publisher of Alijan Ibragimov radar. Recently, she teamed up with new Boulevard magazine, and fashion pho- Estimated wealth: $2.15 billion partners to open the Mediterranean- tographer Ya n Ray, founder of EAT Entrepreneur / Diversified style Villa dei Fiori complex opposite Models, under the supervision of Daria the Esentai Mall, which houses stores for Shapovalova, creative director of Tom Ford, Saint Laurent, Chloé, Etro and Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days. Alexander Machkevich Bottega Veneta, among others. This season, featured brands included Estimated wealth: $2.08 billion Luxury brands also work with a hand- Mechanical Piano, Leonid Zherebtsov, Entrepreneur / Basic materials ful of other licensees, such as G&G Aigul Kassymova and Khan Kuchum. The Glamour, which operates the Fendi and shows ran concurrently with Kazakhstan Sergio Rossi stores in the Esentai Mall, Fashion Week, which took place Oct. 16 to Vladimir Kim and Feru Group, which handles Lanvin, 18 in Almaty and Oct. 23 to 24 in the coun- Estimated wealth: $1.99 billion Stella McCartney and Marni. try’s capital, Astana, though Bertayeva Entrepreneur / Basic Materials In the past, wealthy Kazaks did their brushed off any suggestion of conflict. luxury shopping abroad, favoring des- “We don’t see a problem in this be- Dinara Kulibaeva tinations like Dubai and Moscow when cause we chose an international cal- they were not in Paris, London and endar and our shows start at 2 p.m. Estimated wealth: $1.3 billion Milan. Back home, prices were set by Kazakhstan Fashion Week starts at 7 Inheritance and Entrepreneur / local retailers — with wildly varying out- p.m.,” she said. But she agreed the local Energy and utilities, financial comes — and old-season merchandise market was too small to sustain two com- services and investments was sold at full price alongside the new. peting showcases. “I think, after five Things have changed with the retail years, maybe there will be only one fash- SOURCE: WEALTHINSIGHT boom in the country, though. Viled Group ion week left,” she mused. now compares its prices against those The fashion media is also expanding, overseas, while most rich residents pre- thanks in part to the opening of the local and Kuchumov plans to take part in in- fer to spend their money at home. branch of Buro 24/7, the fashion and life- ternational design competitions to raise “We try to always have fair pricing style Web site founded by Russian social- his profile. ite Miroslava Duma. Its launch party last For the first edition of Vogue’s Fashion November featured a fashion show by Night Out, held in Almaty on Oct. 25, A look from Mary Katrantzou and a performance by he did a trunk show for the label. Aika Aika Alemi. A$AP Rocky. Jaxybai, cofounder of Aika Alemi, another Meruyert Ibragim, founder of Buro rising fashion brand, screened a short film 24/7 Kazakhstan, credits the site’s arrival she directed, which special guest Diane with prompting some key changes in the Pernet promptly promised to feature on way local fashion operates. “We made it her blog, A Shaded View on Fashion. more disciplined,” she said. Jaxybai, who jettisoned a career in For now, Kazakhstan lacks home- international finance to devote her- grown “It” girls, but she is working on self to filmmaking and fashion design, that, too. “This year, we tried to work symbolizes the blend of tradition and with different people, and now we have modernity that characterizes the gen- a base of people who are really stylish, eration of Kazak designers. Born in who are good people that we can feature Shymkent on the Silk Road, she uses in photo shoots,” said Ibragim. traditional techniques with a twist, like One of these is Nadira Arapova, a.k.a. felt applied on silk to create lightweight @nani_bakyt, who has more than 33,000 but warm dresses. followers on Instagram and who appeared “That’s how I started to create, be- in a shoot featuring Nicolas Ghesquière’s cause I was just in love with the nomadic debut collection for Louis Vuitton. She also culture — not just in love because it’s a happens to be Ibragim’s sister. cool thing to do but because, during the This kind of overlap is com- Soviet Union, basically it was a story of mon in Kazakhstan, where suppressed identity. We didn’t know our fashion players usually have history. We didn’t know where we come fingers in several pies. A from,” she explained. case in point: Ibragim is “So, for me, it was a rediscovery when also the financial backer I came back to Kazakhstan — a rediscov- for Khan Kuchum, whose ery of my language, the roots, the decora- Spring men’s and women’s designer, 17-year-old tive arts,” she continued. “My clothing is looks from Khan Kuchum. Danilo Kuchumov, started very nomadic but also very modern. I’m out as a contributor to the a global traveler, and I think [my cloth- social pages of Harper’s ing] has a global, international feel to it, to get a big visibility boost if it is selected policies. Of course, Bazaar Kazakhstan, as well.” in July. we can’t match making his own outfits Sauvage’s Rakh was the first to pick “We see people from neighboring Milan or Paris be- for events. up her line, now in its third season and countries [and] people from China and cause of the trans- “I wanted to make also carried by multibrand store Viola in India shopping in our mall, which was port and custom duties, something different, London. Jaxybai hopes to add more in- not really happening even two, three but we are not going to and the only option I ternational stockists soon. years ago. We’ve built up this whole be too pricy, in order to saw was to start making Indeed, there is a feeling in Almaty shopping experience to a different level draw purchases here,” clothes myself. So, I vis- that anything is possible. where people can really find service said Kopytin, noting as other ited my grandmother [and] “It’s an interesting market because it’s comparable to international big cities,” key factors outstanding cus- found a lot of Soviet books new and it’s fresh and it’s empty. Yo u can Sarybekov noted. tomer service and a broad about cutting and sewing, put something here, and it grows because “We expect that [by] doing this reno- assortment of in-season mer- about construction. The we’re really hungry. We have this hunger vation of the mall [and] including more chandise. first thing that I did were for luxury, [and] we have a hunger for brands of an international level — [this] As the domestic offer has these shirts that looked like fashion. Historically, we were trapped in will drive a lot of traffic even within grown, a vibrant local fashion a skirt in front,” he said. the U.S.S.R. for more than 70 years. We Kazakhstan because there are still many scene has sprouted, with the “A lot of Soviet women were not allowed to go abroad. We were people that are shopping outside the Esentai Mall at its epicenter. were sewing things for them- in shortage of everything, from bread to country,” he said. The country now has selves because there wasn’t jeans,” said Buro 24/7’s Ibragim. Prior to the opening of the Esentai two official fashion weeks: anything here,” he added. “Now, people are earning money. We Mall, luxury retailing was mainly in the Kazakhstan Fashion Week, found- Known for its graphic sports- can get visas for every country, so we can hands of concept stores such as Four ed in 2003, and Mercedes-Benz wear, Khan Kuchum is being go abroad. We can study anywhere we Rooms, Bureau 1985 and Armonia, which Fashion Week Almaty, which held touted as a brand to watch, want. So, now, we can have it all. That’s are scattered across town — a disadvan- its second edition from Oct. 17 to JOELLE DIDERICH why the appearance of all these brands tage in a city where temperatures can 19 and drew some 6,500 guests to Diane Pernet poses with an eagle here works,” she added. “I’m just won- at the Shymbulak ski resort.

drop to 22 degrees Fahrenheit below zero the Ritz-Carlton ballroom. PHOTO BY dering when Chanel will open.” 6 WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2014 Raffaella Sadun, Tommy Hilfiger and Fred Gehring at Harvard Business School. Samsonite Readies Hartmann Relaunch the brand in “Live and Let By SHARON EDELSON Die,” with James Bond carrying a Hartmann Skymate suitcase. HARTMANN, the 135-year-old Franklin Delano Roosevelt American luggage brand, is used Hartmann luggage, and, getting a push from Samsonite, more recently, it’s been fea- its Hong Kong-based parent. tured in films such as “Oceans “For the last 10 to 15 years, 12” and TV series such as “Mad the brand has been in the Men.” “Don Draper is always BARRITT/ CRAIG GETTY IMAGES FOR TOMMY HILFIGER hands of different private eq- seen with Hartmann luggage,” Hilfiger, Gehring Share Retail Lesson uity firms and underinvested,” said Tainwala, referring to the PHOTO BY said Ramesh Tainwala, chief character played by Jon Hamm. executive officer of Samsonite. “Fun and style is as impor- Chou, who became Hilfiger’s European private equity firm, “We’re now ready to relaunch tant as anything,” Tainwala By KATHERINE BOWERS majority owner with Lawrence Apax, to buy the business in the brand globally, as a true said, noting that Halston and Stroll in 1989, convinced the de- 2006. U.S. private equity play- American heritage brand.” Gloria Vanderbilt designed col- BOSTON — A day for reflection? signer to give up his name and ers saw the brand as passé and Samsonite acquired Hartmann lections for the company in the It seemed so for Tommy majority ownership in his com- weren’t interested, Gehring said. in 2012, for $35 million. Seventies. “We foresee this as a Hilfiger on Monday. The design- pany by asking if he wanted to Hilfiger said this was one of his Tainwala was sitting in luxury fashion category. Brands er spent his morning at Oscar be “a small part of an elephant most personally difficult times. “I Hartmann’s first U.S. store, such as Prada and Gucci get de la Renta’s funeral and his or a large part of a pea?” The will forever be indebted to Fred — at 520 Madison Avenue in excited by this category, and afternoon at Harvard Business answer to Hilfiger was clear. he saved my life because I felt the Manhattan, which last week many brands do stylish prod- School, where he spoke to stu- Yet, growth — and the pressure ship was really sinking.” celebrated its inauguration ucts, but when they look at the dents about his own life and to meet Wall Street expectations With the Apax deal secured, with a party at Lever House. functionality of the bag, many career. The Hilfiger brand is — came at a cost. After tremen- Gehring reeled the American busi- According to Tainwala, don’t understand. It’s easier to the subject of a new HBS case dous growth in the late Nineties, ness in — cutting jobs, curtailing Hartmann combines crafts- make good-looking bags than study, “Transforming Tommy by the early Aughts the brand was costs, and closing wholesale ac- manship with the techno- [functional] bags.” Hilfiger,” published earlier this oversaturated, quality spotty and counts, according to Sadun’s case logical edge and engineering Tainwala isn’t rushing to year. Hilfiger sat down with case the U.S. team disillusioned and study. Once the U.S. business was knowledge of Samsonite. “The produce handbags. “We don’t study author and HBS assistant “numb,” Gehring recalled. pared back, Macy’s accounted front end of the brand has in- see ourselves as specialists in professor Raffaella Sadun and The only bright spot was for 70 percent of U.S. total whole- dependent marketing and de- fashion handbags,” he said. with Fred Gehring, chairman of Europe, where Gehring had grown sale revenues, according to the sign, and the back end — sup- “Tote bags and [women’s] brief- Tommy Hilfiger, to discuss the European operations in a con- Harvard case study. A 2007 exclu- ply chain and logistics — will cases we’ll get into, but not brand’s past and lessons learned. trolled way. He’d mistrusted the sivity deal was structured so that ride on the Samsonite ma- necessarily handbags. We don’t If the talk had a theme, it was extreme “hype” in the U.S. and the two companies would share chine. We’re going to leverage see how we can add value.” that careers — especially big sought to position Hilfiger globally profits and invest jointly in adver- the Samsonite machine.” With the 7R collection, ones — suffer reversals. as an American heritage property, tising and capital expenditures Hartmann is to open stores Samsonite has “tried to bring Hilfiger recounted the high rather than “trend du jour.” (such as window displays), an in the U.S. “in all the major the best of the knowledge we of opening his first store in “We said ‘no’ nine times for atypical arrangement in an indus- gateway cities, such as Boston, have to bear,” Tainwala said. For Elmira, N.Y., and the low of every one ‘yes’” Gehring re- try where department stores have Chicago, San Francisco, Los example, 7R has Curv, an ultra- going bankrupt by age 23. called. He created a European typically been guaranteed margin Angeles and Miami. There will strong and light material that’s “That [experience] was my design team, headquartered in and so don’t hesitate to mark goods be a strong pull from Asia and proprietary to Samsonite. “ Yo u masters [degree],” he said. “I Amsterdam, and established an in- down, according to “Transforming Russia,” with units in Japan, can throw it from a mountain,” learned how to focus on the dependent design direction even- Tommy Hilfiger.” Ye t it worked be- Korea, Beijing, Hong Kong and Tainwala said. The carbon-fiber business side of the business. I tually followed everywhere but the cause both parties were incentiv- Moscow. “Department stores handles are made from the same learned how to make money — U.S. Meanwhile, the U.S. market ized to sell at full price. play a big role in Japan and material used on skis. a lot of designers have never became flooded with low quality, “When we went exclusive only Korea,” Tainwala said. “We’ll Samsonite is also working on learned how to do this, but I overlogoed “me too,” product. with Macy’s we were able to get have shops-in-shop there.” wearable technology that would never wanted to go back and be When he heard rumors that elevated positions,” said Hilfiger. “One thing about our heri- embed microchips into bags bankrupt or be poor again.” Hilfiger might be licensed “exclu- Sadun asked Hilfiger if he had tage is being modern,” said so they can be tracked. “We’ve He wanted, in fact, to be big sively out to a mass retailer, the to do one thing differently, what Tainwala. “That’s what we’re designed bags for Lufthansa, — and it meant compromises, name starts with W, ” Gehring re- would it be? He replied, “I’d go returning to.” but the airlines are not on a whether small ones, like work- called, “we knew we had an emer- with [Gehring’s] philosophy — nine Hartmann has been car- common platform. Wearable ing with fabrics he wasn’t crazy gency situation on our hands.” times ‘no’ for every ‘yes’” he said. ried by heads of state, royalty technology is still not there, but about, or large ones, like giving Afraid that “the American In 2010, Apax sold the brand and Hollywood royalty. Ian there’s quite a few things that up control of his name. Textile death spiral would pull us to current owner, PVH Corp, for Fleming in 1954 immortalized can come. We’re ready,” he said. magnate and investor Silas down,” Gehring found a $3 billion. ‘Seduction’ Focus of Hanro Exhibition Goldie Tapped for CKI ter in the upcoming George Clooney- MELISA GOLDIE has been named chief market- By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Hanro will introduce a produced film “Our Brand Is Crisis” ing officer of Calvin Klein Inc., a wholly owned capsule collection to mark and Patricia Field requested Hanro subsidiary of PVH Corp. TO CELEBRATE its 130th anniversa- its 130th anniversary. styles for “Stealing Chanel,” a feature She reports to Steve Shiffman, chief executive r y, Hanro of Switzerland will unveil a film due out next year. “We are very officer of CKI. commemorative exhibition and cap- proud that so many people from art Under the new structure, CKI will unify the sule collection in its Meatpacking and society wear Hanro. We got con- creative studio and the communications teams. District store. nected with Elettra through her shop- Goldie will oversee all marketing-led initiatives Elettra Wiedemann, Melissa ping at the store in the Meatpacking including consumer engagement, public relations, George, Thandie Newton, Zachary District,” Snodgrass said. advertising and social media. Quinto, Taryn Manning, Kelly With seven freestanding stores, Most recently, Goldie was executive vice presi- Rutherford and Katie Lee are expect- as well as distribution in such retail- dent and chief creative officer, overseeing the ed at tonight’s opening of “130 Years of ers as Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Calvin Klein Advertising and Marketing teams. Dressing the World’s Most Seductive Avenue, Harrods and Le Bon Marché, She joined the company in 2001 as vice president Women,” which will feature contem- Hanro plans to open an Amsterdam of print and broadcast production and was pro- porary artists’ takes on Hanro’s more boutique, its first one in the moted to senior vice president of creative services noteworthy moments, such as Marilyn Netherlands, in February. The com- in 2006 and again to her most recent role in 2012. Monroe in “The Seven Year Itch” and pany has seen double-digit percent- “Melisa defined strategic marketing programs Nicole Kidman in “Eyes Wide Shut.” age gains in the last four years, thanks and led the execution of the Calvin Klein brand’s On view through Jan. 15, the show in part to the strength of the U.S. mar- most iconic and inspirational campaigns and prod- highlights work by Izak Zenou, Esther ket, which accounts for one-third of uct initiatives over the last decade,” said Shiffman. Bayer, Petra Dufkova, Marc-Antoine Hanro’s total volume, Hohmann said. Goldie’s direct reports will include Jennifer Coulon and Miles McMillan. A main reason why Hanro opened Crawford, who was promoted last month to ex- In an interview Wednesday, Jan a Meatpacking District store was due ecutive vice president of global communications. Snodgrass, president of Hanro USA, to the Whitney Museum of American Crawford, who joined the company in 2004, will and Stephan Hohmann, managing Art’s plans to move into the neighbor- now oversee the public relations, celebrity servic- director of Hanro International, said der a body dress that is a replica of hood. Hanro plans to feature more ex- es, special events and corporate communications the limited-edition line is as much an archival piece created in 1924. hibitions in its New York store in the teams. For two years, she has served as senior about renewing the brand as it is To underscore the label’s current coming months. With 25-foot ceilings, vice president of corporate communications. about honoring its heritage. Hanro relevance, Snodgrass and Hohmann the store’s interior could potentially Crawford assumed the role previously held by of Switzerland, which is actually noted that Jane Fonda wore the become its own art canvas, according Malcolm Carfrae, who resigned as executive vice based in Austria about 50 yards from brand for her role in “This Is Where to Snodgrass and Hohmann, who said president and chief communications officer in July the Swiss border, called on its seam- I Leave You.” Samples have also been they are in talks with a few artists to join Ralph Lauren as global head of communica- stresses in Switzerland to embroi- pulled for Sandra Bullock’s charac- about such a prospect. tions, public relations and media. —LISA LOCKWOOD WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2014 7 WWD.COM

I’m offering $700 charms here and trying to make the range a little greater.” Neuwirth Unveils Melrose ‘Experience’ Neuwirth has also branched out from her design signatures such as opals, chrys- oprase, moonstone and quartz to include By MARCY MEDINA pearls, aquamarine, tanzanite, tourma- line, emerald and sapphire. What was once WEST HOLLYWOOD, Calif. — Jewelry more delicate is now bolder and weightier. designer Irene Neuwirth has mastered “It was so fun to be able to create for the the three Cs — casual luxury, conscious store because I haven’t been able to work commerce and California dreaming. with a blank canvas. I always think, ‘What The 2014 CFDA Swarovski Award can [my retailers] sell?’ and for me, it’s not winner (and CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund always my dream order, so I’m going wild finalist) has built a mini empire on her and doing everything I’ve always wanted colorful baubles, which have earned a to do from scratch. I don’t need to have all cult following over the last decade among the basics here. The other stores can work women who love not just her aesthetic, on selling that and we can have something but also her lifestyle. that’s my dream store.” Neuwirth, who started her business Other touches inside include com- after sending a package of beaded neck- missions from local artists such as Clare laces with a magic-marker-written note to Crespo dioramas, Claire Oswalt water- Barneys New York, is nothing if not person- colors, Aaron Morse hand mirrors and al. She spends 90 percent of the year on the Inside the Irene Neuwirth boutique at 8458 Melrose Place. a painting by her mother Geraldine road servicing a select group of less than Neuwirth. Not surprisingly, Neuwirth 30 retailers worldwide, who have grown has gotten a lot of knocks on the door her business to the point where she can af- asking who lives here — or better yet, ford the ultimate retail experience — her is it a restaurant? “A couple came by first boutique at 8458 Melrose Place, which the other day insisting that they had a opened Saturday. The 1,850-square-foot reservation. When I told them it was shop, next to Isabel Marant on the coveted probably at Fig & Olive next door, block that’s also home to The Row, Chloé they were like, ‘OK, but can we still and Oscar de la Renta, is the first fine-jew- KEENAN/GETTY IMAGES FOR IRENE NEUWIRTH STEFANIE come here?’” elry vendor on the street, and with items Neuwirth pulled out all the ranging from $700 to north of $200,000, the stops to fete the opening on potential for per-square-foot sales is greater Saturday. Two-hundred-plus than for some bigger brands. ALL OTHERS BY guests flowed through the nor- Neuwirth designed nearly 300 new one- mally spacious boutique (the off pieces for the store, but don’t expect to finer points of the Commune see them lit up in shadowboxes with dark- Design decor may have been AMY GRAVES; suited security guards and white-gloved lost on some, since guests like salespeople hovering nearby. In fact, the Abigail Spencer Elizabeth Banks, Busy Philipps, store looks more like an upscale Paris and Claiborne Jessica Capshaw, Busy Philipps, Constance Abigail Spencer, Constance apartment, complete with a gourmet kitch- Swanson Frank Zimmer, Irene Neuwirth and Elizabeth Banks. Zimmer, Judy Greer and Gillian

STORE PHOTO BY Judy Greer en built into the rear of the retail space Jacobs were packed like sar- (with a window above the sink that looks like Neuwirth’s home (which she decorated grance and a diamond collection at Barneys dines, lined up wedding-reception-style out onto Marant’s courtyard). The jewelry herself). Like her idol Tony Duquette — a New York. “We’re not looking to have a to greet the designer and circulate. is displayed in Regency-style vitrines up painting and a pair of sconces of his also monstrous business overnight. I think that “I’m going to get my Teddy t-shirt,” ex- front, and sprinkled through the “dining decorate her store — Neuwirth enjoys mix- was an adjustment for my [wholesale part- claimed Cameron Silver, of what was ap- room” and “living room” spaces via custom ing the not-necessarily-precious with the ners] at the beginning because they want to parently a VIP gift for some, bearing the dioramas and cases built into bookshelves. whimsical, bold and unexpected. close the sale and I’m like, ‘If you sleep on likeness of Neuwirth’s Labradoodle and Anyone who knows Neuwirth or has “I just want the whole experience of it and dream about it, then you should have unofficial mascot. After about an hour, han- glimpsed her Instagram-happy life — snaps buying precious jewelry to be un-pre- it.’ I’m way more laid-back, and we have dlers urged guests to vacate the store and of her Labradoodle Teddy, picture-perfect cious,” she said. “I want people to feel women who collect hundreds of pieces of set upon a green-lit, topiary-strewn pathway house on the Venice, Calif. canals and in- like they can touch things and hang out ours and some who only buy our jewelry.” down Melrose Place to a verdant and roomy ternational travels with her film-director and not feel like they need to leave the While most of her customers are com- outdoor event space a few hundred yards boyfriend Phil Lord have caused many a store in two minutes if they’re not buying fortable adding a six-figure bauble to away at Fig & Olive restaurant. T New York designer and editor to dream something. I walk into Cartier and I’m their collection each season, Neuwirth “I wanted people to feel like they about packing it in and heading west — intimidated. And maybe that’s part of it, is also attuned to the aspirational nature were being led on a jungle path,” said will understand her smooth transition into but I wanted to be the antithesis of that.” of her brand. “Maybe you’ll get excited Neuwirth. “This is the way to do it,” com- retail. Design firm Commune created a Her laissez-faire attitude confused re- to have this piece in five years when you mented designer William Anzevino. “Get custom space — from the pink onyx dining- tailers at the beginning, but has since paid don’t have the money to get it now. That’s everyone to look at the store first, then room table to the shearling chairs to the off. The company experienced 60 percent fine, too. I know all those people could come to a place where you can just hang oversize hippo and donkey — meant to feel growth last year with the launch of a fra- eventually become customers. That’s why out and enjoy the company.”

OBITUARY Old Navy to Open Shenzhen Unit THE $16 BILLION Gap Inc. is Gap Inc. also said there’s Robin Howe Grossman, Was Jones New York Exec pushing its Asian expansion. been growth in e-commerce Old Navy is opening its first in China, and that it’s testing NEW YORK — Robin Howe Grossman, former prices, and she created a vision for that brand,” store in Shenzhen on Saturday, interactive displays that give vice president and chief designer of Jones New he said. At Jones, she provided “a wonderful bal- and its first one in Beijing in customers wider access to Gap York, died of triple-negative breast cancer on ance of modernity [and] wearability and a sensi- December. The openings will products in and out of store. The Wednesday morning at her Sag Harbor, N.Y., bility about career clothes and looking elegant,” give Old Navy, which entered company has been experiment- home. She was 52. he added. China in March, seven stores in ing with virtual wall technology The British-born designer received a certifi- Grossman met her husband when he was the country. to expand its product offering to cate from the London College of Fashion and president of Jones New York. They left the city Gap’s first store in customers in existing stores as a degree from the Parsons School of Design, several years ago and moved to Sag Harbor, Guangzhou opens Saturday, well as with pop-ups that can be where she received the Gold Thimble award. where Grossman got involved in the community and in Taiwan, Gap will open used to introduce the brand to She began her fashion career at Adri and be- and enjoyed such hobbies as yoga, painting and in Hsinchu in late November, new consumers. came the designer of Basco for Barneys New designing jewelry. bringing the Gap brand to five Said Kirwan: “It’s early days York. She was then appointed vice president “Robin was a uniquely talented fashion de- stores in that market since its yet, but with the addition of vir- and chief designer of Jones New York, where signer. She was also a true creative artist who launch there in March. tual experiences both in our she worked for 16 years; during that time, the counted painting and jewelry design as pas- “We continue to be excited Gap stores and in other nontra- business grew to $1 billion in sales from $50 sions. But what truly made her special was her by the response of Chinese cus- ditional locations, we hope to million. Grossman later became design di- absolute love for her husband, Andy; her two tomers to our brands,” said Jeff offer more points of access to rector for Calvin Klein better sportswear at sons, Sam and Will; her daughter, Jane, and her Kirwan, president of greater our Chinese customer so she can G AV, which was established by her husband, entire family and friends. She had a warrior China for Gap Inc. “Both Gap shop our brands wherever, when- Andrew Grossman, and Alexander Vreeland spirit until the very end, [when she was] sur- and Old Navy have been warmly ever and however she wants.” and financed by Jay Schottenstein. In 2007, rounded by those she loved very much,” said embraced, giving us confidence Gap brand is now in 25 cities Grossman launched the Robin Howe sports- Mindy Grossman, chief executive officer of HSN to continue our expansion in in Mainland China, Hong Kong wear collection for High Fashion International Inc. and her sister-in-law. this vibrant region.” and Taiwan with three dedicated Ltd., selling in stores such as Bloomingdale’s “She had incredible style. She was really The company also said it will e-commerce sites, gap.cn, gap. and Nordstrom. a fun woman, and her taste level was superb,” surpass 100 Gap-branded stores hk, and gap.tw and a storefront “She had impeccable taste,” said Vreeland. added industry consultant Stuart Kreisler, who across Mainland China, Hong on Tmall. About a week ago, He explained that, when GAV first received the admired the way she decorated her homes in Kong and Taiwan on Saturday Carolyne Rapp exited Gap as di- Calvin Klein license, Calvin Klein had never Sag Harbor and Bridgehampton, N.Y. with the Guangzhou opening. rector of global fashion and cre- done better sportswear. “She had a really clear Services will be held on Friday at 1 p.m. at Gap Inc. operates Gap and Gap ative concepts. The position is sensibility of what Calvin Klein could be in Gutterman’s, 8000 Jericho Turnpike, Woodbury, outlets in China. The stores and not expected to be filled. Maria ready-to-wear. She came out with a whole look N.Y. Donations can be made to the Triple the dedicated e-commerce site Chen continues as vice president of what Calvin could be in those categories and Negative Breast Cancer Foundation. — L.L. launched in China in 2010. of global design. — DAVID MOIN 8 WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2014 Men’s Week The Maestro of Ma Custom tailor Martin Greenfield has dressed presidents and luminaries by the dozens since

{Continued from page one} floor, and in 1977, 30 years after every procedure better than the time.” He added, “Not like most the Nehru jacket, but it was the most to his dismay, said to him that he first caught sight of the Statue person who taught me.” suits, which look best on the rack, beautiful Nehru jacket.” they must separate, explaining, of Liberty, he bought the build- He worked his way up from ours are able to mold to the shape The U.S. presidents he has “On your own, you will survive. ing and the equipment, renaming tailor to supervisor to head qual- of your body and fit better the lon- dressed include Eisenhower, Yo u are young and strong, and I the business Martin Greenfield ity man. These days, his company ger you wear them.” Lyndon B. Johnson, Gerald know you will survive. If you sur- Clothiers. Beginning with his first is the only men’s tailoring firm left His father wanted him to be a doc- Ford, and Barack vive by yourself, you must honor weeks of work, he had made him- in New York which is a union shop tor, Greenfield said, but as a recent Obama. Greenfield was making us by living, by not feeling sorry self indispensable. “I was deter- employing more than 100 people. immigrant with no money to sustain Eisenhower’s suits when he was for us. That is what you must do.” mined to learn every single task at His sons, Jay and Tod, have long him during the years of schooling President during the Suez Crisis of His son writes in his memoir GGG,” he writes in the book, which worked with him and now own the ahead, he didn’t see how this could 1956. He felt so strongly about the that this message, which he didn’t want to hear at the time, has helped to sustain him throughout his life. Martin Greenfield He said that he took part in Steven at his firm. Spielberg’s Shoah Project, which has recorded the memories of many I wanted to , so he would have tapes of himself talking about be the best, to his experiences in the camps to give to his sons and grandchildren. “stand out. When Buchenwald was lib- erated by the U.S. Army, “every country came looking for their sur- vivors,” recalled Greenfield, who was from the small town of Pavlovo in the Carpathian Mountains of ” . “I wanted to fight the Germans, so I enlisted in the Czech army. But soon the war was over, and I was discharged. They let me keep the uniform, which made me very popular with girls.” Jay Greenfield with Mario Avitable at work. He went looking for family members and eventually ran into a man who knew that his father Joseph, like Martin, also had been in Buchenwald but had been shot only a short time before liberation. Martin never found any traces of the rest of his immediate family. One day in 1947, a letter arrived for Greenfield that said he had rela- tives of whom he had never heard: an Aunt Elka and Uncle Irving and their families were living in the U.S., and another uncle, Antonio Berger, was living in Mexico. These were all his mother’s relatives, and they had left Czechoslovakia be- fore he was born. They offered to send him a boat ticket and sponsor him in America. He arrived in New York in September 1947. Kalvin Bruno Harding STEVE EICHNER Mermelstein, a friend he had first and Obadiah Mazo met in the displaced-persons camp in the workroom.

Gabersee, found Greenfield a job PHOTOS BY working with him at the top-notch men’s tailoring firm GGG, named was written with Wynton Hall and business. What makes a Greenfield be accomplished. “So, I became a suit course Eisenhower should take in for the three Goldman brothers — published by Regnery. “I wanted suit special is the handwork, such doctor,” he said. But he didn’t make this matter that he began writing William P. , Mannie and Morris — in to be the best, to stand out. Hand- as interior French seams. The just suits. “We used to make vicuna notes to advise him about what to Bushwick, . basting, darting, piping, facing firm’s highly skilled employees coats for [President Dwight D. “Ike”] do, slipping the notes into the pock- Greenfield, who by then had and lining, blind stitching, press- can be seen plying their trade in Eisenhower and for gangsters. It was ets of his suits — a gesture that, for- decided to change his name to ing, armhole work, joker tags, fell the firm’s Brooklyn workrooms. a big thing.” One low point was men’s tunately, Ike found rather amusing. the “more American” Martin stitching, preparing besoms, finish- Greenfield said the hand stitching fashion in the Seventies, when, as he When Hillary Clinton asked Greenfield, began by sweeping the ing — I would learn how to execute makes the suits “wear better over recalled, “My boss made me make for help dressing President Bill

Greenfield with President Clinton during a fitting at the White House. At right, other

notables the tailor has dressed over the years. FALK EVAN PHOTO BY STEVE SANDS/GC IMAGES PHOTO BY

Steve Buscemi in Marcus Wainwright, Glenna Neece, “Boardwalk Gucci Westman and David Neville Empire.” at the Met Ball, 2014. Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2014 9 de-to-Measure escaping the Nazis as a child, and he relates his life story in a new memoir.

Clinton, Donna Karan recommend- suits, which are specially modified nice. We used to be such Knicks fans us, every penny goes into the suits ed Greenfield. Today, the master because he’s always doing stunts when we met him. I come up to about we make,” his father responded. tailor admits he was startled by Bill on set and needs to be able to his navel. He’s 7 feet tall. ” “It didn’t enable us to make for- Clinton’s wardrobe when he was move. Michael Douglas, Leonardo Former Mayor tunes of money,” his son said. “But first invited to the White House to fit DiCaprio, Tobey Maguire, Ben told WWD in we did the right thing.” him. “This had to be one of the most Stiller and Bobby Cannavale have 2013 that he gets all his suits at “Great friendships are like great pathetic Presidential wardrobes in also been customers. Martin Greenfield. “They’re cheaper tailoring: The stronger the stitch, the American history,” he writes. “I had Greenfield’s roster of athletes than Paul Stuart, where I used to get longer it lasts,” Greenfield writes. my work cut out for me.” includes , LeBron my clothing,” Bloomberg said at the For Greenfield, his relationship Greenfield writes that President James, Michael Strahan and time. A made-to-order with former Secretary of State Obama is “built like a fitting man- has become one of Martin Greenfield has his say. nequin, a 40 long with an these. Powell has been a client enviable 33½-inch waist,” since he left the Army in 1993, and When a character based on and adds that he looks Martin and his wife, Arlene, have singer and comedian Eddie Cantor, good in any color but pre- joined him and his wife, Alma, played by Stephen DeRosa, ap- fers gray and navy for suits. at their house for barbecues. peared on the series, Greenfield Greenfield was introduced Powell contacts them frequently, was able to show the kinds of de- to Obama through Ikram as Greenfield said, “with time signs, cuts and cloth he used for Goldman, the owner of the he doesn’t have.” When Powell suits worn by the real Cantor, Chicago boutique Ikram, visited the Brooklyn factory for whom Greenfield, early in his where first lady Michelle the first time, the suit maker re- career, dressed and who used to Obama often shopped. called, he was moved because perform for the GGG staff when he Initially, President Obama in- it reminded him of a workroom came to the factory. tended to send one of his suits where his mother, who came In “Measure of a Man,” a to the firm to copy, rather than from Jamaica, used to sew when “Boardwalk Empire” crew member letting himself be fitted. Jay he was a child. Powell also asks Greenfield whether he had Greenfield, however, dissuad- picked up Yiddish in his youth ever made any suits for “wise guys ed him from doing this, and he while working in a children’s or mobsters” while he was at GGG. and his father went to the White furniture store in the Bronx. His response: “Are you kidding? Of House to fit the President. Making film and televi- course. Mob guys always made the Obama ended up wearing one of sion costumes is an area, best customers — they paid in cash.” the resulting new suits on a visit Jay Greenfield said, that And Greenfield told him about to Buckingham Palace. has just “exploded” for dressing Meyer Lansky, saying, “He Martin Greenfield likes to them. “This season, almost wore a 40 short. He was so cautious be called a maker, rather than every network came to us.” about security that I never met a tailor. He and his firm have He explained, “The fac- him face to face. I just made up the made private-label clothing for tory is 100 years old. We just suits the way he liked them, and we the likes of Neiman Marcus and did a movie called ‘Black shipped them to the Fontainebleau manufactured men’s wear for Mass,’ about Whitey Bulger Hotel in Miami Beach, Florida.” Donna Karan, Alexander Julian with Johnny Depp, which The firm also has clothed char- and . He also is set in the Seventies and acters on “The Good Wife” and has moved with the times and Eighties. We know patterns, “Law & Order: SVU” and currently currently works with Rag & cuts. We can look through our dresses the men on the Cinemax Bone, which features his firm’s archives, which go back to series “The Knick,” starring name on the tag. President Eisenhower.” Clive Owen and set in New York’s Greenfield was scheduled Greenfield dressed Steve Knickerbocker Hospital in 1900. to do a fitting on George W. Buscemi for his role as “Brian Dennehy was sent here Bush in Washington, D.C., on Nucky Thompson on the HBO to be measured for suits for a Sept. 11, 2001. This, of course, series “Boardwalk Empire,” new TV series ‘Public Morals,’ ” didn’t take place. However, along with the rest of the male Greenfield said. “And he said, he also had appointments characters on the series, for ‘Well, I’ll go, but good luck to you. to fit other men with Brooks ▲ all five seasons of the show. No one can fit me.’ He couldn’t be- Brothers suits at a trunk show in Clockwise from left: Greenfield writes, “ ‘ Yo u know lieve it when he tried the suit on.” the city the next day. None of the Greenfield’s Czech army I.D.; Martin and Arlene Greenfield’s the only time I ever heard Because of , clients cancelled. These men, it wedding portrait, 1956.; the Grünfeld family in the mid-Thirties. From left: Rivka, anyone call me “handsome” Greenfield was never bar mitzvahed, seemed, considered being mea- Tzyvia, Max (Martin), Joseph and Simcha. was when I wore your suits,’ so he decided to have a bar mitzvah sured for a suit a form of keeping [Buscemi] joked, referencing his at age 80. He writes that he said at calm and carrying on. Shaquille O’Neal. “Patrick Ewing Martin Greenfield suit starts in price trademark quirky look. ‘Seriously, the time, “ ‘Did I survive because Frank Sinatra, Jerry Lewis and owns maybe 250 suits of mine that I from about $2,000. 90 percent of this role is the I’m a hero? No, I survived maybe Dean Martin were Greenfield’s made for Donna Karan,” Greenfield An exchange between the clothes. Any time I’m practicing because God wanted me to survive. clients at GGG. Donald Trump, said. “First of all, he’s a very nice Greenfields is telling. “What peo- and feeling unsure about a line or Or maybe I was lucky — I don’t Robert Dole and Donald Rumsfeld man. I know his father in Boston, took ple don’t realize when they see scene, I look in the mirror and re- know. But I’m here. The biggest cel- wear Greenfield suits, too. The tai- care of him [i.e., made him a suit]. beautiful pages in a magazine is alize you’ve already made Nucky. ebration of my life is today, because lor dresses Jimmy Fallon for “The And [Ewing] took care of his money. [that] part of the price of the suit is I just have to mouth the words. the odds were so against me. And I Tonight Show” in Rag & Bone He is very different, and he’s very a lot of marketing,” Jay said. “With The suits do the rest.’ ” made it here, at 80.” FALK EVAN STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY PHOTO BY

Dwight D. Eisenhower’s Michael presidential Joseph Genuardi and Greenfield Bloomberg portrait, wearing Carmelo and La La Anthony Greenfield fit James with President in 2013. a GGG suit. at the Met Ball, 2014. Spader for “The Blacklist.” Obama. 10 WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2014 Men’s Week

The new pop-up mines the company’s history. Le Bon Marché Revamps Men’s Offer

by PAULINA SZMYDKE Haider Ackermann and Cuisse de Currently occupied by up-and- Grenouille, among others — are coming French brand Officine PARIS — Three years after the new this season. Generale and its marriage of start of its remodeling, Le Bon According to Wagner, custom- modern tailoring and custom- Marché has finally unveiled its ers currently spend 168 euros, or made fabrics, the pop-up space is new men’s floor, spread across the about $211 at current exchange, slated to host a revolving cast of historic building’s basement, next a purchase. under-the-radar labels, includ- to the wine cellar. “But it’s not just about product ing Bleu de Paname in February, “The neighborhood itself has — it’s about service,” said Maud Band of Outsiders in April and been under construction, and it Tarena, the retailer’s men’s wear Ron Herman in May. is essential for us to stay on top director, pointing to the barber- Ron Herman is also likely of this evolution,” said Patrice shop as an example. “It has gotten to add juice to the new denim Wagner, chairman and chief ex- so hard to get a seat, we decided to corner, which includes a made- ecutive officer of Le Bon Marché, double the size,” she said. The en- to-measure service by 3x1 that referring to the ongoing renova- larged space is to open in January. boasts the New York-based pre- tions of the Lutetia hotel, which Separately, a semibespoke ser- mium denim maker’s large selec- sits next door, as well as the new vice — or “demi-mesure,” as the tion of weaves. development of high-end real es- French call it — has been added, In the shoe department, which Eddie Bauer Reenters tate in the retailer’s backyard that with Ermenegildo Zegna, Scabal and carries Want Les Essentiels de is expected to attract a fleet of af- Dior bearing the torch. Balthazar, Le la Vie’s new sneaker line among fluent shoppers to the store. New York City Market JOHN AQUINO In a walk-through of the new floor on Wednesday, Wagner said The new men’s floor at Le Bon Marché.

PHOTO BY that, unlike many department stores, 75 percent of Le Bon by JEAN E. PALMIERI Inc. The San Francisco-based Marché’s assortments are hand- private equity firm Golden Gate picked by its buyers, instead of EDDIE BAUER is back in New Capital won a bankruptcy-court being provided by the brands York City. auction for Bauer with a $286 mil- themselves. “The products need The Seattle-based retailer, lion cash bid in 2009. to be in line with our identity,” which closed its last store in Two years ago, the company in- which is Parisian, chic and essen- Manhattan seven years ago, will stalled Mike Egeck as chief execu- tially Left Bank, he specified. unveil today a 1,500-square-foot tive officer. Egeck has a strong repu- Among the new floor’s most out- unit in the Flatiron District at 100 tation in the active outdoor space, standing features is a selection of Fifth Avenue at 15th Street. The having done stints at VF Corp.’s exclusive designs done in collabo- store is being referred to as a pop- North American outdoor business ration with a broad range of de- up, although the location will be and The North Face, and signers. They currently home to a larger store next year. has worked to return the FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE account for 40 percent “This is our permanent space,” company to its roots as of the total offer. explained Kristen Elliott, director an authentic American WWD.com/ Throughout the of brand marketing. “But this is a outdoor brand. “The menswear-news. floor, mannequins sport Bon Marché’s in-house men’s wear other exclusives, shoppers will be one-of-a-kind design. It will stay brand got in trouble unique silhouettes. label, will soon follow with a system- able to customize their footwear as open until Valentine’s Day, and when it became something consum- There is a printed sweat- atically expanded offering. part of a new service due to launch then we’ll shut it down for a com- ers didn’t want,” Egeck said. “It had shirt by Raf Simons; a check- “Men’s, in general, has seen sig- in time for the holiday season. plete overhaul.” A newly designed swung hard toward chasing Chico’s, ered gray suit jacket with match- nificant growth since it moved into Building on the idea that men store of 4,000 square feet will re- Ann Taylor and Talbots and became ing Bermuda shorts from Thom the basement — up between 5 per- tend to gravitate to an all-in-one open in May. a missy sportswear brand.” Browne, who is slated to show off cent to 10 percent year-on-year,” destination and hoping to attract The store’s design and merchan- But with its rich heritage, his quirky universe in a special disclosed Tarena, citing Balthazar, a wider demographic, Le Bon dise mix are centered around the Bauer had an opportunity, he be- collaboration with the department designer clothing and shoes as key Marché has upped its game in company’s outdoor heritage and lieved. “I grew up in Seattle with store in February; and newcomer drivers. “Other segments, such as the lifestyle department with its includes graphics that detail its his- the brand,” he said. “And I was brand OAMC’s ubermodern take on contemporary and sportswear, have so-called fantasy gallery, which tory, including its founding by adven- ticked off that it had gotten so off- the parka, which melds the French been tougher to sell, but that is pre- features everything a man might turer Eddie Bauer in 1920 and his mark. So, we doubled down as an brand’s expertise in technical fab- cisely why we have set out to rejuve- need to get him through the day, creation of the first down jacket in authentic outdoors brand.” rics with cutting-edge design. nate our offer in these categories.” from a pair of Marshall head- 1936. In fact, that jacket, the Skyliner, Without disclosing numbers, In addition, some two dozen Her strategy relies on three phones and an iPad case designed is showcased in a glass case at the Egeck said the brand had a “nice men’s labels — Sacai, Want Les principal pillars: denim, sneakers by Ora Ïto to an exclusive collec- rear of the store, next to the climbing year in 2013. We tripled our Essentiels de la Vie, Beams, and pop-ups. tion of bracelets by Miansai. outfit worn by Jim Whittaker in 1963, EBITDA [earnings before interest, when he became the first American taxes, depreciation and amortiza- to ascend Mount Everest. tion]. This year, we comped positive Man of Elliott said the store’s mix has in October, and [we’re] keeping our been curated to outfit New York fingers crossed for November. If THE WEEK MATTHEW MCCONAUGHEY: A- shoppers for their “adventures,” you look at our catalogue, our Web whether that’s walking in Central site and our storefronts in the past Park or hiking a snowy mountaintop. two years, we’re now competitive He never fully recovered the volume in his face The structured shoulder drops The mix includes pieces from the with The North Face, Columbia after losing the weight for his award-winning sharply on his frame, making him First Ascent collection, which is en- and REI. That’s the competitive set role in “Dallas Buyers Club.” A little filler look sophisticated and powerful. dorsed by the group of 34 mountain we’re focused on.” mixed with cover-up would help soften that. guides who worked with the design Egeck said that despite the fact But he’s still a handsome fellow. team to make sure the merchandise Golden Gate nearly completed a He loves the three-piece suit, is outdoors-worthy. “Nothing goes deal to sell the company to Jos. A. Is he wearing lipstick, or was and we’re OK with that. He to market without their consent,” Bank earlier this year, he and his he just kissing his wife? always opts for traditional Elliott said. In addition, it carries team are keeping their eye on the styling and pulls it off. It the Sport Shop collection, which is ball. “When you’re owned by pri- doesn’t look too stuffy. targeted to fishermen and hunters, vate equity, you’re always for sale. Once a sexy kitten, always a sexy kitten. and Travex, the travel-themed of- We’re not focused on that,” he said. The perfectly open shirt and no tie give a fering; there’s also a smattering of “We’re focused on maximizing the peek at his “Magic Mike” days and recall The light, shiny sportswear, such as Fair Isle sweat- brand potential and incrementally the infamous photos of him jogging gray fabric has the ers and plaid shirts. The retailer’s increasing our profitability.” shirtless on the beach. potential to wash him new branded footwear collection, That plan includes adding stores out, but his perpetual introduced in August, is also high- in more high-traffic locations. The double wedding ring tan helps to solve the lighted; in January, the Motion col- In addition to New York City, not only looks masculine tricky situation. lection of activewear will be added. Bauer will open a unit on Post Street and refined but also Although this is Bauer’s only in San Francisco sometime around shows he’s a family man. New York City store, there are Thanksgiving. Egeck said, “Even The narrow fit of the trousers eight units within a 50-mile radius, with 300 stores in North America, is not too tight and slenderizes Elliott said. In total, the retailer op- we’re very underrepresented in him. The heavy crease keeps the erates nearly 400 stores in the U.S., major metropolitan markets. We The leading man in wrinkles at a minimum, but the Canada, Germany and Japan. The have no stores in L.A., we had none the highly anticipated below-the-belt area is always an company is looking at Southeast in Manhattan, and we have a limited issue with this type of fabric. Asia and South America as future number in San Francisco. That’s a science-fiction movie expansion areas, Elliott said. great advantage for us. Most retail- ‘Interstellar’ knows how The Eddie Bauer corporation ers with 300 to 500 stores are looking The clean cut of the cuff and has had its struggles over the past at B- and C-level malls and markets. to dress for his body the sleek lace-up shoe offer decade as it lost sight of its core But as a product of our reorganiza- the perfect finishing touch to HALL/GC IMAGES RAYMOND customer, a misstep that threw it tion, we have A+, A, B+ and B mar- type and star status. this successful ensemble. into bankruptcy in 2003 and 2009 kets that weren’t filled in. We have a

under its former owner Spiegel target list that is very healthy.” PHOTO BY WWD, Thursday,WWD NovemberTHURSDAY, 6, NOVEMBER2014 1 6, 2014 11 WWD.COM

engaged fashion brand last month in Internet marketer Stylophane’s monthly FASHION SCOOPS MEMO PAD compilation of Facebook “post likes.” The French luxury brand registered YOU CAN GO HOME AGAIN: Style.com is under 1.23 million “post likes” last month, BIG HAUL: U.S. authorities said and increased U.S. public- and private- the Vogue umbrella — again. WWD has slightly ahead of the Brazilian retailer’s Wednesday they seized an estimated sector financing in Africa. learned of a new reporting structure at the 1.193 million and Brazilian footwear $1.8 million in counterfeit Hermès The fashion industry has long fashion Web site that has both its editor in brand Via Marte’s 1.185 million. Birkin handbags at the Port of considered sub-Saharan Africa a chief and publisher reporting to Vogue’s Other fashion and sports brands Savannah, Ga., last month, marking the potential apparel-sourcing platform, higher-ups. Style.com publisher Matt Rice finishing in the top 20 included Alpinestars largest counterfeit seizure at the port particularly with Congressional passage reports to Vogue publisher Susan Plagemann, (1.1 million), Chanel (980,000), Adidas this year. Officials from U.S. Customs of the African Growth & Opportunity while editor in chief Dirk Standen reports (723,000), Michael Kors (713,000), Dolce & and Border Protection snagged 198 Act in 2000, which attracted the first to Vogue editor in chief and Condé Nast Gabbana (569,000), Christian Louboutin of the fake Hermès handbags in early flow of apparel and textile investment artistic director Anna Wintour. (543,000) and Roberto Cavalli (486,000). October after inspecting a shipment into the continent. Apparel and textile Editors reporting to Wintour isn’t “Post likes” are the sum of “likes” from China that was logged in the imports from a total of 49 eligible AGOA exactly new; the majority of Condé Nast bestowed on a brand’s posts. As manifest as polyurethane handbags. countries hit 260.9 million square-meter editors do so. But Rice’s reporting to Stylophane partner Alex Mendoza pointed China is the number-one source of equivalents, valued at $983.8 million, for Plagemann, not president Bob Sauerberg, out, simply posting frequently is hardly counterfeit and pirated goods seized by the year ending April. — K.E. indicates a shift in strategy for the Web the path to high engagement. He noted U.S. officials, accounting for 68 percent, site. The new reporting structure was that Louis Vuitton’s pacesetting total or $1.18 billion, of goods seized in fiscal BUTTONED DOWN: Losing one is a confirmed by Condé Nast, but it declined came from just 21 posts during the year 2013. Of that total, officials seized pain. You might press one in a to elaborate on the strategy for the two month, while Lojas Renner’s came from $547.7 million in bogus handbags panic. Undoing one telegraphs brands going forward. 180 and Via Marte’s from 55. and wallets from China. relaxation — or seduction. But perhaps one need look no further “You don’t want to post too much The other two large seizures And now the button is getting than Bon Appétit and Epicurious. Condé because, after a while, people stop in Savannah this year included its own Paris exhibition. The Nast has a similar structure, with Bon paying attention and might even un- 377 cartons of bogus sunglasses showcase next year at Les Arts Appétit editor in chief Adam Rapoport follow you,” Mendoza said. “There are valued at $1.6 million and $1 Décoratifs — titled “Déboutonnez and publisher Pamela Drucker Mann limits to how many times you want to million in counterfeit soccer la Mode” or “Unbuttoning Fashion,” overseeing the recipe-centric Web site. hear even from a brand you love — apparel. — KRISTI ELLIS — will exalt a collection of 3,000 Sources told WWD that the merger of between 20 and 40 seems about right.” rare, antique buttons the museum those two sites was, in part, to help beef Via Marte topped the September VAN CLEEF & ARPELS’ FAIRY TALE: Van acquired in 2012. The exceptional up Bon Appétit’s Web traffic. It also tabulations, followed by Louis Cleef & Arpels’ holiday windows cache, amassed by collector Loïc Allio, eliminated redundancies in Condé’s Vuitton, Michael Kors and Lojas are what fairy tales are made of — spans buttons crafted over more than portfolio, as Epicurious produced similar Renner. — ARNOLD J. KARR literally. Today, the jewelry house two centuries by various artisans content as its marquee food print title. will unveil its holiday windows at and jewelers as well as artists Although it is not yet evident HOLLYWOODLIFE’S the brand’s Fifth Avenue flagship such as Jean Arp and Alberto whether Vogue will take charge of NEW ME: store, with its Peau d’Âne high Giacometti, commissioned by Style.com in that way, it is an ironic HollywoodLife. jewelry collection at the center of Elsa Schiaparelli. homecoming for Style.com. com has tapped the display. The holiday windows The chronological Fourteen years ago, the site was Dina Sartore-Bodo will mark the U.S. debut of the A Hellstern & exhibition, curated by established as the online home of Vogue as managing collection, which originally Sons boot from fashion historian Véronique and W magazines. But Wintour lobbied for editor. Sartore- launched in France this summer. the Twenties. Belloir, traces buttons from the years for her own site for Vogue, and so, in Bodo spent the The name, Peau d’Âne, is the 13th century through to the 2010, Style.com was pushed out of Condé past five years at title of the fairy tale, written by Charles present day via displays of clothing, Nast to Fairchild Fashion Media. It was PerezHilton.com, Perrault, from which the collection finds accessories, drawings and photographs, shuffled back to Condé this summer, when most recently in addition to the fancy fasteners Fairchild was sold to Penske Media Corp. as the site’s themselves. It is to run from Feb. 12 to For Vogue, the summer also marked executive editor. July 19, 2015. — MILES SOCHA an important point in its digital history She will be based when the magazine relaunched its Web Dina Satore-Bodo in the company’s THROWING SHADE: Basketball star site. How Wintour will work with Standen New York Russell Westbrook’s eyewear brand, has yet to be seen, but the Vogue editor office and work with HollywoodLife.com Westbrook Frames, is collaborating appears to have wasted little time. She president and editor in chief Bonnie Fuller. with JackThreads for an exclusive was spotted meeting with Standen at Style. “Dina is an exciting addition to our collection for the e-commerce site. com’s office in Midtown on Wednesday Hollywoodlife.com team,” Fuller said. Starting Nov. 11, the Thrillist Media morning. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD “She comes to us with a sharp eye for the Group-owned site will launch a celebrity, pop-culture and style news that pre-sale of the limited-edition line, LOVE OF THE LIKE: In a non-electoral race matters most to our readers, as well as Westbrook Frames Silver Series that was almost too close to call, Louis an understanding of digital traffic growth ILLUSTRATION BY THYRA HEDER THYRA BY ILLUSTRATION A rendering of Van Cleef & Arpels’ holiday windows. for JackThreads, that will come in Vuitton beat Lojas Renner as the most and scale.” — A.S. four styles and three colorways. The its inspiration. “It’s a love story, and you styles were named after Westbrook’s have all the elements of a true fairy tale favorite locations: California, where — a princess, a castle, et cetera,” chief he grew up; Oklahoma, where he plays executive of the Americas Alain Bernard basketball; New York, JackThreads’ said of the tale. “We love to tell a story headquarters, and Florida, a state through our high jewelry collection, where the NBA player vacations. All and this was a way to retell the frames will be under $100. reoccurring themes of Van Cleef & “These sunglasses give me another Arpels, which is nature, couture and, of way to express myself and my sense For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. course, romance.” of fashion,” Westbrook told WWD. To re-create these themes for the “I consider my eyewear to be an Fifth Avenue windows, Bernard called extension of my outfit. Like how a upon artist Douglas Little, who has worked pocket square is to a suit, that is what with the brand in the past. “We wanted I consider my eyewear to be. Spaces the windows to feel as though you are “I believe personal style is about For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. reading a book, and as you walk down being different and expressing COMMERCIAL 57th Street and turn onto Fifth Avenue, yourself through your clothes and REAL ESTATE ABS / BLUE PEARL you’re turning the pages,” he said. Little accessories. People should have PATTERNS, SAMPLES, BY ALLEN SCHWARTZ began working on the display in July. a ‘why not?’ attitude about their PRODUCTIONS SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE - Full service shop to the trade. NEW YORK Spaces Must have relationships with at least “This year, I worked with people that personal style and just be themselves.” Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 50 East Coast boutiques and have the are [in] stop animation and the film In anticipation of the launch, ability to do business immediately industry because I wanted to bring that JackThreads will have a “shot clock” COMMERCIAL upon starting. Must be able to establish new relationships with East level of detail,” he said. “They are very on its site counting down the moment Coast boutiques, online and REAL 33rd-57th St ESTATE West-All Sizes FashionFlow Apparel ERP Systems ABS / BLUE PEARL microscopic, hyperrealistic worlds that the sunglasses go on sale. (ERP, MRP, PLM, AR, EDI, Mobile) internationalBY ALLEN stores.Social SCHWARTZ media skills Menswear Showrooms Cloud-Based All In One Solutions SENIORreq’d. ACCOUNT Comp. package EXECUTIVE open. - we’ve created.” — LAUREN MCCARTHY “Teaming up with Westbrook Frames D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Custom Setup & Integration Available Send resumeNEW via YORK email to Allen for this exclusive collection was a no- www.fashion-flow.com 212-244-4020 Must have relationshipsSchwartz: with at least [email protected]. East Coast boutiques and have the ADVISING THE PRESIDENT: Shelley Broader, brainer for us,” said Michelle Cordeiro ability to do business immediately upon starting. Must be able to president and chief executive of Wal- Grant, vice president of Merchandising at establish new relationships with East Mart EMEA, who oversees operations JackThreads. “We love showing our guys 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Coast boutiques, online and PRODUCTIONS international stores.Social media skills and business development for the how to take risks and make a statement, Menswear Showrooms req’d. Comp. package open. D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Full service shop to the trade. retailer in Europe, the Middle East while also maintaining a classic look — Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Send resume via email to Allen Schwartz: and sub-Saharan Africa, was one of and there’s no one who does that better [email protected]. 15 executives named Wednesday to than Russell with his new line.” the new President’s Advisory Council Along with the launch, Westbrook on Doing Business in Africa. The new will be featured on the cover of the council, headed by the U.S. Commerce site’s holiday look book as well as Secretary Penny Pritzker, will provide with an interview on the site. Early information and recommendations to next year, the basketball star will also the president on U.S.-Africa trade and celebrate a special event with Thrillist investment priorities, including job Media Group during the NBA All Star creation, new commercial partnerships weekend in New York City. — DAVID YI LIVE TOMORROW at 8PM EST

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