Measure of a Man: from Auschwitz Survivor to Presidents' Tailor

The Journal of The James Madison Institute

artin Greenfield is a fashion Johnny Depp, Leonardo DiCaprio, Kobe industry icon. During his Bryant, LeBron James and many other storied career as a tailor, he famous people. All of these varied clients Mhas hand crafted suits for Dwight D. had one thing in common: They wanted Eisenhower, Gerald Ford, Bill Clinton, the absolute best suit available, with no Donald Rumsfeld, Frank Sinatra, Dean detail spared. Martin, Michael Jackson, Martin Scorsese, However, there is more to

www.jamesmadison.org | 95 The Journal of The James Madison Institute The Journal of The James Madison Institute

restoring these uniforms, Greenfield realized that the basics of stitching could lead to his survival: “I scrubbed so hard the bristles ripped the collar. The face of the pacing soldier at my station flushed red. I do not remember his words, but I remember his baton. When he was finished with my flogging, he balled up the torn shirt and threw it in my face. I mended the shirt. To this day I still don’t know why, but when I got up the courage, I slipped the soldier’s shirt on and wore it under my Greenfield’s story than simply his famous striped prisoner uniform. From that day suits. In his memoir Measure of a Man: on, the soldiers treated me a little better. From Auschwitz Survivor to Presidents’ The day I wore that shirt was the day I Tailor, Greenfield returns to his childhood learned clothes possess power. Clothes in Europe where he overcame seemingly don’t just make the man; they can save the insurmountable odds by embracing the man. They did for me.” spirit of hope and the ethic of uninhibited With U.S. and Soviet forces quickly hard work. suffocating the German army in the winter Born in the quiet Czechoslovakian of 1944, the situation looked bleak for the town of Pavolo, Greenfield endured the retreating Nazis. As artillery fire began absolute worst of humanity’s propensity to light up the night sky, the remaining for evil when he and his family were taken survivors of Auschwitz were frantically to Auschwitz in 1944. This was when moved to more isolated camps. These mass Hitler and the Nazi party established their relocations were called “Death Marches” final solution to the “Jewish problem,” the in which tens of thousands of emaciated systematic killing of 6 million innocents in prisoners, including Greenfield, were an attempt to “purify” the bloodline of the forced to make the brutal journey from Third Reich. It was there at Auschwitz that camp to camp. Greenfield lost his entire family. However, not long after Greenfield’s During his time at Auschwitz, transfer to Buchenwald, U.S. soldiers Greenfield was forced to perform many arrived at the camp’s gates. He writes: “The menial tasks under horrific conditions to American tanks from the Sixth Armored support the German war effort. Though he Division reached the SS military barracks. served as a bricklayer and hospital assistant, At precisely 3:15 p.m., the white flag of there would be no job more significant surrender flew over Buchenwald. Ours was to his personal development than his the first camp the Americans liberated.” time repairing damaged Schutzstaffel Following his liberation, (SS) uniforms. Tasked with patching and Greenfield decided not to wait around for

96 | The Journal, Winter 2016 The Journal of The James Madison Institute The Journal of The James Madison Institute

the impending imposition of Communist After working at GGG for 30 rule in Eastern Europe. “I had seen the years, Greenfield purchased the original slow creep of evil once before. I wasn’t clothing factory from the Goldman family about to stick around to see my freedom in 1977, and renamed it Martin Greenfield and property die a second death. Sharing Clothiers. What he initially envisioned with one’s neighbors out of free choice as a “boutique store” rapidly evolved into was one’s right. But government seizure of something much more. In his first months one’s wages and property for the purposes as a business owner, large orders became of redistribution of wealth at the barrel of overwhelmingly common. Greenfield’s a gun was tyranny. I wanted none of it,” clientele – A-list celebrities, cultural icons, writes Greenfield. and politicians -- appreciated his attention So in 1947 to detail; however, Greenfield made his way “Hard, honest work there was more to what across the Atlantic to the Greenfield was offering. United States to live with is the backbone Customer communication newly-found relatives. of America and was critical in establishing Soon after his arrival, he is also the basis the reputable and timeless obtained a factory job for Greenfield’s brand he was determined with the suit manufacturer success. Although to achieve. GGG in Brooklyn. he came to Despite Greenfield’s Though his career started harrowing life story, he modestly, Greenfield America from has included comical quickly began to gain the Czechoslovakia, he anecdotes, observations, respect of his peers and is cut from the same and details throughout industry superiors. In fact, cloth that makes his memoir. He notes GGG owner William P. America the land of that some of his biggest Goldman took an instant opportunity.” struggles on the job have liking to Greenfield and been convincing political taught him the intricacies leaders the necessity of a of the tailoring business. handcrafted suit. In fact, he’s “worked hard Indeed, Greenfield demonstrated to make sure America’s political power GGG’s trademarked attention to detail, brokers look anything but ugly.” helping further differentiate its custom A favorite story of Greenfield’s products from cheaper, “off the shelf” suit involves former President Bill Clinton’s options. However, Greenfield went a step unwavering affection for comfortable, further, for he wanted to be the very best at everyday clothing. Upon his first fitting any task given: “I watched, I listened, asked with President Clinton, Greenfield found questions, remained teachable, and devised himself cringing in horror at the sight of the ways to beat the best. I never aimed for president’s “modest” wardrobe. “I couldn’t mere excellence. Perfection was always my believe my eyes… more jogging suits than passion. Who wants to be second best?” any man needs to own, a ratty old overcoat

www.jamesmadison.org | 97 The Journal of The James Madison Institute

so ugly I was tempted to throw it away on It’s stories like these that make the spot, and a couple of average, off-the- Measure of a Man a fascinating read; rack suits,” writes Greenfield. Needless to they offer personal insight into the lives say, he outfitted the president with the very of American icons. Hard, honest work best available. is the backbone of One of America and is also the Greenfield’s closest “...government basis for Greenfield’s clients is actor Steve seizure of one’s success. Although he Buscemi, the star of the wages and property came to America from HBO series “Boardwalk for the purposes Czechoslovakia, he is Empire.” Playing a of redistribution of cut from the same cloth character closely that makes America resembling infamous wealth at the barrel of the land of opportunity. Atlantic City political a gun was tyranny. I This is whyMeasure boss Nucky Johnson, wanted none of it...” of a Man is more than Buscemi was tasked just a survivor’s tragic with creating a character story. It’s a testament to that properly represented the cutthroat what can be achieved with only modest environment of 1920s Prohibition-era beginnings and huge aspirations. Indeed, politics. Buscemi is quoted as saying, “90 Martin Greenfield is the American Dream percent of this role is the clothes. Anytime personified. I’m practicing and feeling unsure about a line or a scene, I look in the mirror and Brent Morando is currently a student in the realize you’ve already made Nucky. I just MBA program at Florida State University have to mouth the words. The suits do the and former floridaverve.org assistant editor. rest.”

98 | The Journal, Winter 2016