MARCH 2014 PAIRINGS

AND Covone Massimo owners and Bottega Fabrizio BROTHERS IN

20

STORES AND IN 6 ICON

WINES

DIVERSITY VENETO DELICIOUS

CHIANTI ITALIAN 30 MARCH

IN STORES MARCH 6 AND 20 30 newly arrived .

DIRECTOR – SPECIALTY PRODUCTS BUSINESS UNIT – SAQ Michel-André St-Jean MANAGER FOR SPECIALITY PRODUCTS, MARKETING – SAQ Sophie Drouin PUBLISHER – SAQ Johanne Morrisseau CONTRIBUTORS – SAQ Marie-Lyne Alarie, Éric Bertoldi, Daniel Bonasso, Liette Chaput, François Couture, Luc Dallaire, François Fortier, Pierre Lauzon, Martin de Lottinville, Marie-Ève Meunier, Julie Perreault, Justin Rouette, Veronica Ruiz, Alain Smith, André Viola CONTENTS Médias Transcontinental S.E.N.C. PUBLISHER – VICE PRESIDENT, CONSUMER SOLUTIONS Lise Paul-Hus MARCH 2014 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Catherine Elie ART DIRECTOR COVONE BROTHERS’ PIZZERIAS Renée Grégoire LIFESTYLE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 6 ON THE MENU Josée Larivée Great plus . EDITORIAL STAFF Catherine Bergeron, Myriam Huzel, Pascale Navarro CONTRIBUTORS 12 VERSATILE VENETO Kler-Yann Bouteiller, Rémy Charest Italy’s most productive COPY EDITORS wine region. Joan Irving, Donna Jensen TRANSLATOR Felicity Munn 20 VENERABLE ART Iconic wines. Graphic artists Blanca Arellano, Christiane Gauthier, Davor Nikolic QUEBEC DIGITAL PRE-PRESS SERVICES Sylvain Renaud (Director) 28 DOMAINE DU RIDGE Linda Desjardins (Production Coordinator) Ex-politico Denis Jules Alexandre Obry Paradis’s . LOUISE SAVOIE. PHOTO: (Director of Deployment and Support Tablet Computers) 514-845-2211 ON THE COVER ADVERTISING SALES 29 NEW ARRIVALS Brothers Fabrizio and Massimo Covone Sabrina Boucher – SAQ bring Italian tradition alive at their Bottega 514-254-6000, ext. 5115 Details on our specially pizzerias in Montreal and Laval. SAQ CUSTOMER SERVICE selected new releases. Montreal area: 514-254-2020 Elsewhere in Quebec: 1-866-873-2020 PRINTING TC Imprimeries Transcontinental, a division of Imprimeries Transcontinental S.E.N.C. All correspondence should be addressed to: 1100 René-Lévesque Blvd. West, 24th Floor, Montreal, Quebec, H3B 4X9, CANADA. Telephone: 514-392-9000 [email protected] CELLIER NEW ARRIVALS, published eight times a year, is produced and published by TC media (www.tc.tc), in association with the following SAQ departments: Marketing; UPCOMING EVENTS Purchasing and Merchandising; Les Cours Connaisseurs; Communications; Quality Management; Sales; and Legal Services. SAQ headquarters is located at • SALON COCKTAILS, BIÈRES IMPORTÉES ET VINS D’ÉTÉ – LAVAL 905 De Lorimier Avenue, Montreal, Quebec, H2K 3V9. CELLIER is a registered trademark of the Société des alcools du Québec. Any reproduction of articles, illustrations or MARCH 1 AND 2 photographs is strictly prohibited. Prices for products in the magazine are subject to • WEST ISLAND WINE AND SPIRITS SHOW – POINTE-CLAIRE change without notice. Legal Deposit: Bibliothèque nationale du Québec, National MARCH 19 Library of Canada. ISSN 1911-2238. Publications Mail Agreement 40064963. Return undeliverable addresses to CELLIER, 905 De Lorimier, Montreal, Que. H2K 3V9.

Limited quantities. No layaways are permitted until the Monday following the release of products. Prices are subject to change without notice.

March 2014 3 FABULOUS FINDS OF ALL KINDS MORE ACCESSIBLE THAN YOU THINK

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Aff ordable prices, New arrivals starting at $14.00 every two weeks

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CYAN MAGENTA YELLOW BLACK SPREAD CELLIER 18” X 10,875” InDesign CS4 CS5 D107422B_100203993_Spread_Cellier_B PG Montage à 100 % du format final CLIENT : SAQ SAQ PAGE 1 Épreuve à 86 % du montage PUBLICATION : Cellier AN 08/10/13 ÉPREUVE 1 Impression finale à 100 % Photos vérifiées PARUTION : Décembre 2013 R.-C. NO DOSSIER : 100203993 Rédaction Directeur Direction Service à Client Production Correction Commentaires de création artistique la clientèle d’épreuves CD/DVD FORMAT : Double Page Spread ATTENTION AdDIRECT COULEURS : 4 COLOURS Le « trapping » est à faire par l’imprimeur selon ses propres specs. Date : FABULOUS FINDS OF ALL KINDS MORE ACCESSIBLE THAN YOU THINK

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Aff ordable prices, New arrivals starting at $14.00 every two weeks

Wines identifi ed Products in by taste tags limited quantities

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ANGLAIS

CYAN MAGENTA YELLOW BLACK SPREAD CELLIER 18” X 10,875” InDesign CS4 CS5 D107422B_100203993_Spread_Cellier_B PG Montage à 100 % du format final CLIENT : SAQ SAQ PAGE 1 Épreuve à 86 % du montage PUBLICATION : Cellier AN 08/10/13 ÉPREUVE 1 Impression finale à 100 % Photos vérifiées PARUTION : Décembre 2013 R.-C. NO DOSSIER : 100203993 Rédaction Directeur Direction Service à Client Production Correction Commentaires de création artistique la clientèle d’épreuves CD/DVD FORMAT : Double Page Spread ATTENTION AdDIRECT COULEURS : 4 COLOURS Le « trapping » est à faire par l’imprimeur selon ses propres specs. Date :

Restaurateurs Fabrizio (left) and Massimo at Bottega.

Brothers Fabrizio and Massimo Covone ITALY ON THE MENU Fabrizio is a pizzaiole and , while Massimo is a born communicator We have organic wines, and avid wine lover. Together, the “natural wines, wines made from indigenous grapes, and sibling restaurateurs embody both so-called ‘popular’ wines. innovation and a profound attachment Our wine list is very diverse. to their Italian roots. – Massimo Covone”

hen Montreal’s Il Mulino was at a peak Massimo, “I’m going to go for an indigenous grape – of popularity in the 1980s, restaurateur Nerello Mascalese, for example. Respect for terroir Aniello Covone’s young sons Fabrizio and is a philosophy that applies to wine as well as food.” W Massimo would often play in the kitchen of But Bottega patrons who are less familiar with Italian the legendary Italian eatery. Now 32 and 31, wines needn’t worry. For Bordeaux fans, for example, respectively, the brothers are themselves the joint owners of Massimo might suggest a blend of and Cabernet three Montreal-area establishments: the Bottega pizzerias Sauvignon, but in a Supertuscan version. For customers in Montreal and Laval, and the classic Italian restaurant who swear only by , he might recommend a Hostaria on Rue Saint-Zotique. When Fabrizio opened . Mind you, the brothers have also been known Bottega Pizzeria in Little Italy after spending two years to add French rosés to their wine list in summer. “They learning the craft of pizza making in Naples, Massimo was were from Corsica though,”notes Massimo under Fabrizio’s still studying political science – but already knew so much amused gaze. “So, historically, these wines were at one about wine that it was he who created Bottega’s wine list. time Italian!” Seven years later, Fabrizio obtained a sommelier diploma While the Covones always have a mild argument about from the Institut de Tourisme et d’Hôtellerie du Québec. what to open for their own enjoyment, they fully agree But Massimo, assisted by Luigi Cecere, continues to oversee on the importance of broad representation. “A good wine the wine at their restaurants. “Now that he’s a certified list has to be diverse,” Massimo declares. “In every price sommelier, Fabrizio puts in his two cents worth too,” Massimo range [their wine list runs from $34 to $811], customers says with feigned despair, eliciting a smile from his brother. have a choice of regions and grapes, and can find wines The wine list is 100-percent Italian and features many from small properties and big producers alike. It’s a small producers. “If I want a red from ,” explains tricky balance and I’m very proud of it.”

March 2014 7 IN STORES MARCH 6 AND 20

Pizzaiole Fabrizio says there are three rules to making authentic pizza: the right oven for the crust, the right cooking for the tomato sauce, and a little restraint in the number of toppings. “Plus a suitable !” adds Massimo.

If I want a red from Sicily,” “explains Massimo, “I’m going to go for an indigenous grape. Respect for terroir is a philosophy that applies to wine as well as food. ”– Massimo Covone

Fabrizio and Massimo Covone, who grew up near the brothers hold a with the wait staff once Saint-Martin Boulevard in Laval, run an authentic Italian a week, before the restaurant opens. “Sometimes we hire pizzeria – but that authenticity is of necessity nuanced. or invite producers to lead our tastings. “It’s a pizzeria that’s tailored to Quebec tastes, though We explore new blends and discuss them as a group.” we try to follow certain precepts,” explains Fabrizio. Before uncorking a bottle for a customer, the number “The oven was imported from Italy and can cook pizzas one rule for the brothers and their team is to listen to in 90 seconds. We never cook tomato sauce before the patron. “Everyone evolves differently,” Massimo brushing it onto the dough; it gets cooked along with observes. “When I started buying organic wines, for the other ingredients. Lastly, we try to keep the toppings example, I didn’t like them. There’s a whole process to three ingredients, four max. The flavours really come you have to go through before getting to a point where through that way. Provided, of course, the ingredients you can appreciate them. I used to invariably go for are top quality and super fresh.” Sangioveses and Cabernet Sauvignons. Now I’m The brothers are of the opinion that regional pairings interested in vins de soif and indigenous grapes, and are the best way to go. With local ingredients, local I like turning other people on to them as well. wines, that’s often the ideal. But when you’re talking “I enjoy dealing with our more adventurous customers. wines from Italy, where there are hundreds of indigenous And I am never afraid to open a bottle for them to taste grapes, the food pairings are almost limitless. So as because, if the customer doesn’t like it, I’m certain an exercise in what seems to have become a ritual, someone else will – and who knows? It might be me!”

8 March 2014 ITALY ON THE MENU (CONTINUED)

MARCH 6

EASY GOURMET from Bottega

RECIPE AT SAQ.COM

JR 16.5

SICILIAN PIZZA ITALY 2016 MASSERIA SETTEPORTE, Tomato The San Marzano tomato Mozzarella The cheese’s ETNA ROSSO 2010, ETNA ROSSO lays the foundation of this wine-pizza fattiness and saltiness enrich $25.75 12134145, 750 ML, pairing. Its natural acidity and slight the pizza. The Etna Rosso 13.5% ABV sweetness call for a wine with similar counterbalances that with its NUMBER OF CASES: 150 (6 BOTTLES) The small domaine of barely characteristics, and the Nerello great freshness. 15 hectares is located high Mascalese grape, indigenous to Etna

in the foothills of Mount Etna, Rosso, displays those very qualities. Spicy oil If you want to drizzle one of the world’s most CKAY. spicy oil on your pizza, go for active volcanoes. MA ASSISTANT.

Eggplant A terrific regional it! The one used at Bottega GRAPE: NERELLO MASCALESE BLAKE COLE, : pairing! Widely thought of as a is a secret recipe created by AROMAS

STYLIST vegetable but actually a fruit, as the chef. It’s rare for lovers of WILLIAM botanically speaking eggplant spicy foods and fine wines to COOKED STRAWBERRY,

FOOD HERBS, PEPPER, GRAPHITE . comes from a flower, it’s a popular be able to indulge in both at ACIDITY – MODERATE TOGRAPHER; SIMON ingredient in Sicilian cooking. the same time, but the Etna

PHO Matching your wine with foods Rosso possesses the requisite LEVEL – DRY ANTU, CAROLINE : from the same region makes for freshness and structure to stand BODY – MEDIUM a win-win equation. Plus, cooked up to spiciness. Easy on the oil, STYLIST DOROB eggplant has a toasted aroma that though, as once your mouth is PALATE – GENEROUS D nicely complements the faint wood on fire you won’t be able to taste WOOD – SUBTLE

RECIPE: ACCESSORIES ANA impression in this wine. anything...

March 2014 9 IN STORES MARCH 6 AND 20 ITALY ON THE MENU (CONTINUED)

MARCH 6

Italian Grapes

UNMATCHED DIVERSITY ITALY 2028 ELENA FUCCI, TITOLO 2010, f you drink Italian wines, then Italy’s dominance in this realm was a DEL VULTURE you’re familiar with , bit of an eye-opener for the Wine Grapes $36.25 12134014, 750 ML, 14% ABV Nero d’Avola and , team. “Jancis asked me at the start to plan NUMBER OF CASES: 124 (6 BOTTLES)

I and probably also with lesser- on writing a paragraph in the introduction (GLASS); Dubbed the Barolo of the south, GES known grapes like , that would explain why the Iberian Aglianico del Vulture gets its (PIZZAS). IMA Aglianico and . But that doesn’t peninsula has the most grape varieties,” name from the ancient lava flow GES mean you don’t have a great deal recalls Vouillamoz, a Swiss grape on which the appellation sits. IMA more to explore: Italy boasts some geneticist who supplied the scientific data GRAPE: AGLIANICO 380 indigenous grape varieties, more for the massive project. “However, that was JUNG/GETTY RODRIGUEZ/GETTY than any other country in the world. before we’d completed all the research. AROMAS FELIPE

This incredibly rich diversity comes into “And it’s actually not so surprising,” he RIPE FRUIT, EUCALYPTUS, RICHARD

LEATHER, INCENSE, ABLE); ARE); sharp relief with just a few comparisons: notes, “when you consider that Italy was BALSAMIC NOTES (T GES Italy has almost twice as many native one of the first countries to recognize the ACIDITY – MODERATE SQU grapes as France (204), and more than importance of its indigenous grapes, back IMA MARK'S SUGAR LEVEL – DRY .

twice as many as Spain and Portugal in the 1970s and 1980s.” As a result, more (ST combined (84 and 77 respectively). So and more Fiano, Freisa, and other

BODY – MEDIUM THCART/GETTY reports Wine Grapes, the encyclopedic wines made from native Italian grapes are CA PALATE – STRUCTURED guide by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding now being sold around the world, for the SIMEONE/SIME HELEN and José Vouillamoz that’s considered the greater pleasure of curious wine lovers WOOD – EVIDENT

Bible of grape varieties. open to new experiences. PHOTOS: GIOVANNI

10 March 2014 WINE TRIVIA, ITALIAN STYLE The whole wine business is taken very seriously in Italy. Well, usually, anyway...

WHIPLASH AT

Producers vie for attention at Vinitaly by staffing their kiosks with gorgeous male and female models. “Vinitaly is the only wine fair in the world where you can get whiplash just walking past the stands,” wine columnist Tim Atkin wrote in The Guardian a few years ago. “The general rule seems to be that the worse the product,” he added, “the greater the concentration of male and female models SHADY SAYING offering to pour you a glass.” Venetians will say “andemo bèver un’ombra” when inviting someone for a drink – “let’s go drink a shade.” The quirky expression dates to the when wine merchants at the foot of the clock tower in St. Mark’s Square would sell their wares to the thirsty throngs. As the shadow cast by the tower shifted, the vendors would move their stalls along with it to keep the wine cool and their customers in the shade. THE MICHELANGELO OF PIZZA

Pizzaiole Gabriele Bonci creates some GRAPE GOOF 1,500 different combinations of toppings every year at his acclaimed Rome eatery, After the Second World War, quite Pizzarium, located a stone’s throw from a lot of was planted in the Vatican. Imagine the wine-pairing Veneto. Several years later, it emerged possibilities! Some of Bonci’s concoctions that these vines were in fact . seem a little over the top, like the goat- Not unusually for Italy, the response cheese and raspberry pizza – but food was to carry on regardless, because critics say it’s delicious. And no less an changing the regulations would have authority than Vogue magazine dubbed been far too complicated... Bonci “the Michelangelo of pizza.”

March 2014 11 In the Vanguard

A tasting at the Giorgio Cecchetto winery in VERSATILE VENETO Veneto’s Treviso province.

;

; PETE GODING/4CORNERS/SIME (GONDOLAS)

PHOTOS: LUCA DA ROS/SIME (TASTING) LUCA DA PHOTOS: CARASSALE/SIME (MASK). MATTEO You can’t think of Venice without picturing gondolas, such an integral part of the cityscape. Charming Italy’s most productive wine region serves up fabulously canals, romantic Italians, fine cuisine and exceptional wines also help make diverse foods – all the better to go with its impressive the Veneto region unique.

Proseccos, Soaves and Valpolicellas. ;

ituated in northeast Italy, Veneto vegetables from the saline soils and offering stretches westward to scenic Lake a wealth of fresh fish and seafood. Garda from Venice on the Adriatic As if to echo all that geographical and S Sea and northward to the Alps from culinary diversity, Veneto wines run the the vast, fertile plain of the Po. At gamut: festive sparklers, light whites, the heart of this region is Verona, famous as fruity and age-worthy reds, and dessert ; PETE GODING/4CORNERS/SIME (GONDOLAS) the setting for Romeo and Juliet, but also as a wines. There’s something for every course wine- and food-industry hub. Vinitaly, the top of every meal. “Traditionally in Veneto, annual exhibition devoted to Italian wines, is people see wine as something that highlights but one of the international salons held there. food and vice versa,” notes sommelier When it comes to local foods to go with Katie Parla, who’s lived in the region for the region’s wines, prosperous Veneto is several years. That’s why simple, easy- like an enormous pantry, growing rice and drinking wines are in favour, particularly

PHOTOS: LUCA DA ROS/SIME (TASTING) LUCA DA PHOTOS: CARASSALE/SIME (MASK). MATTEO corn, making cheeses, drawing exceptional on Verona dinner tables.

March 2014 13 IN STORES MARCH 6 AND 20 VERSATILE VENETO (CONTINUED)

SOAVE WITH SEAFOOD In hilly , Veneto’s most productive appellation, adds, but the overall quality has greatly improved. the wines are blends with a minimum 70-percent High-profile American wine writer Matt Kramer goes , a late-ripening grape variety that presents further. “Forget everything you thought you knew about notes of lemon and almond, occasionally with a spicy Soave,” he declares. “Today’s best Soaves will astonish touch. Most often the other grape in the blend is you with their Chablis-like minerality and – here’s a big di Soave, but , surprise – their ability to age for a decade or more.” and Trebbiano Toscano are also used. With time, the wines take on lovely floral or apricot notes. Soave became Veneto’s most prolific appellation Shrimp, white fish with fennel or seafoodfritto misto by creating big industrial wine brands that sold well are mouth-watering with a refreshing Soave. Or do as the internationally due to one factor: price. “As a youth, I was Venetians do: Pair your Soave with a small-shrimp familiar with Soave purely because it was the cheapest or sarde in saor – fried sardine fillets marinated for wine,” laughs Jeremy Parzen, whose Do Bianchi blog is 24 hours in vinegar flavoured with small onions. Another a leading resource for information on Italian wine. Mass- typical Veneto dish that complements Soave, risi e bisi, produced wines are still very much in evidence, Parzen or risotto and peas, makes terrific comfort food.

The Treviso region’s verdant valleys abound with . It’s also a favourite area for hikers and other sports-minded visitors.

ANA DOROBANTU, ANA DOROBANTU, : D

PHOTOS: ARCANGELO PIAI/SIME (). RECIPE ARCANGELO PIAI/SIME (VINEYARD). PHOTOS: BLAKE MACKAY. FOOD STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON. STYLIST: ACCESSORIES ASSISTANT. WILLIAM COLE, PHOTOGRAPHER;

14 March 2014 MARCH 20

WA 90

ITALY 2018 MARION 2009, EASY GOURMET SUPERIORE Roast guinea fowl $39.00 10710268, 750 ML, 14% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 224 RECIPE AT SAQ.COM Some of the grapes used for this wine are dried to concentrate the flavours, VALPOLICELLA WITH PIZZA AND MORE With guinea fowl, the resulting in a richer, more Inland, tastes run to meatier, more rustic fare featuring tendency is to uncork a generous Valpolicella. chicken, rabbit or, in a traditional stew called pastissada, white. But since GRAPES: CORVINA GENTILE, horsemeat. Such dishes naturally call for red wine, is one of the ingredients CORVINA GROSSA, RONDINELLA, TEROLDEGO which has a lengthy history in the region: Roman poet in our Easy Gourmet recipe, Virgil sang the praises of Raetian wine, made in Veneto, I recommend accompanying AROMAS while 13th-century decrees by Frederick I, Holy Roman this particular guinea- COOKED FRUIT, WILD FRUIT, Emperor, coined the term Valpolicella, a -Latin fowl dish with a flavourful GRENADINE SYRUP, medium-bodied red that SWEET SPICES word meaning “valley of many cellars.” has soft tannins, such ACIDITY – DISCREET Though a handful of artisan producers like Prà and Quintarelli still hold aloft the torch of tradition, the as the delightful Marion SUGAR LEVEL – DRY Valpolicella appellation now tends toward a modern Valpolicella. BODY – MEDIUM wine style in which the classic acidity is toned –Élyse Lambert, sommelier down in favour of ripeness, softness and oakiness. PALATE – GENEROUS Valpolicella’s reds are blends that typically contain WOOD – PRONOUNCED mainly Corvina. They range from easy-drinking and lively in the generic Valpolicella appellation to

March 2014 15 VERSATILE VENETO (CONTINUED)

Dating from the 11th century, the Carnival of Venice is world famous for the beautiful, extravagant costumes worn by participants.

sumptuous and deep in Amarone della Valpolicella, whose wines, made from partially dried grapes in the appassimento method, are capable of decades of aging. Veneto reds, in short, are suitable for everything from quick meals to special occasions. Lighter Valpolicellas (such as Bardolino and other regional wines made from more rustic grapes like ) go particularly well with pizza or in tomato sauce. More serious Valpolicellas, particularly Amarones, are wonderful with game, but they’re also delicious with simple pan-sautéed wild mushrooms on a bed of polenta, the cornmeal dish so popular in northern Italy. Or recreate a much-loved Verona treat by uncorking an Amarone with a well-aged Asiago, a gem of a local cheese: potent flavours upon which to meditate before the dessert course. DIVINE DESSERT WINES In using the appassimento method, Veneto winemakers were traditionally seeking to make dessert wines, called Reciotos in Italian. In fact, Amarone is sometimes described as “a Recioto that failed to stop fermenting.” During If you want to cook like the Venetians fermentation, yeast working in an environment of very do, check out Cinzia Armanini’s Venezia concentrated sugar is not always able to convert all that in Cucina: The Flavours of Venice. sugar into alcohol. This results in a sweet wine that’s utterly Not only does it contain 80 recipes, appropriate with dessert. from antipasti to seafood to desserts, There are white (Recioto di Soave) and red (Recioto the book also takes the reader on a della Valpolicella) Reciotos. The whites are particularly gorgeously illustrated journey through suited to almond or walnut desserts, while the reds go Venice’s culinary history and culture. well with chocolate or . Sweet without being rich (Sime Books, Editor) and supported by good acidity, they tempt you to keep on slowly sipping while dreaming of leisurely times in Venice.

16 March 2014 IN STORES MARCH 6 AND 20

MARCH 20

Peperonata is wonderful with pasta or with grilled meats cooked rare to bring out the best in the accompanying wine.

EASY GOURMET Peperonata ITALY 2020 RECIPE AT SAQ.COM VIGNALTA, MARRANO 2007, VENETO $28.90 12131391, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV Italy’s ratatouille NUMBER OF CASES: 150 (6 BOTTLES)

The basic peperonata, featuring and that in this instance echo Veneto property Vignalta is red peppers, onions and tomatoes, the flavours in the peperonata. splendidly situated at elevation – OMAN).

(W is from Sicily. In some regions It also has a small vegetal accent hence its name, a contraction of eggplant is added, making for that, far from being a defect, vigna and alta, or “high vines.” CKAY. a softer texture. Venetians adds complexity and teases GRAPES: , ASSISTANT.

MA like sweet-and-sour fare and out the fresh basil and thyme MERLOT CARASSALE/SIME COLE, BLAKE : often incorporate vinegar into in the peperonata. Incidentally, AROMAS TTEO DARK FRUIT, UNDERBRUSH, MA STYLIST WILLIAM peperonata. Our recipe calls for because Marrano is a tannic ;

green peppers, a little garlic and wine, it’s a great bet with grilled LEATHER, ROASTED NOTES,

FOOD MOLASSES, BUTTER . (GLASS) a splash of red-wine vinegar. meat, be it beef, venison or ACIDITY – MODERATE TOGRAPHER; SIMON duck. Just make sure that the PHO In the glass meat is cooked on the rare side, SUGAR LEVEL – DRY ANTU, CAROLINE CCANELLO/SIME : Marrano, containing Cabernet which will soften the tannins and BODY – FULL RA

DOROB Sauvignon and Merlot, makes optimize the match. STYLIST PALATE – GENEROUS

SANDRA a good pairing because it has D

: the bell-pepper aromas that are – Élyse Lambert, sommelier WOOD – PRONOUNCED

PHOTOS: RECIPE ACCESSORIES typicalANA to Bordeaux-style blends,

March 2014 17 VERSATILE VENETO (CONTINUED)

MARCH 20

ITALY PIONA, CAMPO MASSIMO 2008, VENETO $19.40 12132035, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV VENETIAN GRAPES NUMBER OF CASES: 150 In addition to dominating Italy in wine In Valpolicella, small quantities are Perfect for the first warm days of spring, and a Cellier volume, Veneto is distinguished by its great permitted of charmingly named grapes favourite. Has a scrumptious diversity. No fewer than 27 indigenous such as , Oseleta, Forsellina, quality that will beguile grapes, one of the highest totals in Italy, Rossignola and Dindarella. fans. are under vine in the region. On top of that, In whites, Garganega is a biggie. It’s GRAPE: CORVINA international grapes such as Merlot and blended with a range of other grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon have been widely especially in Soaves, and is also used in AROMAS used in Veneto for several decades. Gambellara, a neighbouring appellation PRÀ). URO FERMARIELLO (G. RED FRUIT, FRUIT DROPS, ; MA Native grapes include intriguing varieties like to Soave, and in Bianco di Custoza wines. FLORAL NOTES Manzoni Bianco, a full and flavourful white, and The white grape Pinot Grigio is used ACIDITY – MODERATE Raboso, a brawny red that takes time to soften. in wines as opposed to blends, But the key roles are played by a small number and its export success was one of the SUGAR LEVEL – DRY of grapes used primarily in blends. spearheads in Veneto’s growth. BODY – LIGHT Corvina is the mainstay in Valpolicella, Last but not least, the region’s Proseccos, Amarone and Bardolino wines. It’s usually sparkling wines made from the PALATE – DELICATE the majority grape and usually blended grape, have also been a great international WOOD – UNOAKED with Rondinella and, for acidity, Molinara. hit for Veneto. ARCANGELO PIAI/SIME (GRAPES) PHOTOS:

18 March 2014 BEHIND THE WINE GRAZIANO PRÀ | VENETO

AT A GLANCE MARCH 20 In 30 years as a winemaker, Graziano Prà has acquired near legendary status in Veneto for boosting the overall quality of the region’s wines.

Along with producers such as Pieropan, Inama and Anselmi, he has contributed significantly to restoring the reputation of Soave whites.

Prà cuvées are exemplary and have frequently been awarded the Italian magazine Gambero Rosso’s highest rating, Tre Bicchieri.

Graziano Prà is • His philosophy After he and his brother Sergio took over ITALY widely credited their father’s property in 1983, Graziano Prà concluded that to PRÀ, MONTE GRANDE 2012, SOAVE CLASSICO with being one of improve wine quality he was going to have to rethink everything $30.00 12132140, 750 ML, a handful of world- from scratch. “I realized that at school we had 13.5% ABV class producers been taught to put right in the cellar what had been done wrong NUMBER OF CASES: 125 who have returned in the vineyard.” Prà is a player in the Soave Soave Classico to revival. Low-yield old vines its former glory. • His backstory Prà worked hard at every level. Inspired grown at elevation make this by the Slow Food movement, he went organic in the vineyard, an exceptional cuvée. improved viticultural methods and fermented his whites in GRAPES: GARGANEGA, stainless steel vats, all with a view to encouraging clear, precise TREBBIANO DI SOAVE expression in the wines. AROMAS URO FERMARIELLO (G. PRÀ). URO FERMARIELLO (G. PEAR, BAKED APPLE, ; MA • His rise He gradually expanded the family holdings to SWEET SPICES 23 hectares from five, adding parcels from the region’s best ACIDITY – MODERATE vineyards. His influence also grew, and his techniques now serve as a model for young producers. SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – MEDIUM • His wines The Prà winery concentrates on Soave whites and the virtues of that zone’s primary grape, Garganega. In PALATE – GENEROUS the mid-2000s, it also began producing high-quality reds that WOOD – SUBTLE

PHOTOS: ARCANGELO PIAI/SIME (GRAPES) PHOTOS: were soon garnering top scores from international critics. VENERABLE CHIANTI PHOTOS: SEBASTIANO SCATTOLIN/SIME (CAR); MAURIZIO RELLINI/SIME (GLASS). (CAR); MAURIZIO SCATTOLIN/SIME SEBASTIANO PHOTOS: Sourced from Sangiovese grown in the picturesque Tuscan hills, Chianti is indisputably one of Italy’s most iconic wines.

iven Italy’s rich and varied array of wines, it’s remarkable that Chianti remains practically synonymous with G Italian wine. Drawn from an enormous appellation that’s also the country’s most prolific, turning out more than 100 million litres annually, Chianti is world famous. IDENTITY CRISIS Geographic location and history alone could The influence of the Supertuscans, some of which account for this region’s international prestige. Both are composed entirely of Merlot, Cabernet and other its simpler wines and its age-worthy Riserva cuvées Bordeaux grapes, has sparked a debate over the are sourced from vineyards situated around some identity of Tuscan wines in general. Should only of the world’s loveliest cities, including , Italian grape varieties be used, or is it okay to

(GLASS). and Pisa. But Chianti wines are also admired on their own merits, particularly after the quality add international grapes to the mix? In Chianti, gains of recent decades. producers are permitted to use Cabernet and Merlot RELLINI/SIME Underpinning the Chianti signature is the Sangiovese as complementary grapes to Sangiovese, which gives URIZIO grape, comprising a minimum 80-percent of the wine. the wines a rounder fruitiness and softens the often- MA The very name Sangiovese is evocative: It translates bracing acidity and somewhat astringent tannins. (CAR); as “blood of Jupiter” (Giove in Italian), which suggests Then again, acidity and tannins are the hallmarks a strong character – apt indeed for Sangiovese. of traditional , and a number of producers TTOLIN/SIME Spirited on the palate, Chianti has lively flavours of red

SCA cherry that are sometimes accentuated with tobacco. continue to proudly tread that path. This can be a bit With aging, it acquires floral or slightly animal notes. confusing for consumers, but reading the back label ASTIANO Simpler versions of Chianti are pizza wines par SEB will clarify which wine style you’re dealing with. excellence, but this is also a wine that can display

PHOTOS: complexity and elegance, especially after cellaring.

March 2014 21 VENERABLE CHIANTI (CONTINUED)

PICI WITH TOMATO- LAMB SAUCE

Recipe by Pasquale Vari

INGREDIENTS Sauce 1 454-g (1-lb) lamb shoulder, bone and excess fat removed 45 mL (3 tbsp) extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped CKAY. MA 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped BLAKE : 1 sprig rosemary STYLIST 3 sage leaves FOOD . 250 mL (1 cup) red wine (Chianti) SIMON 750 mL (3 cups) tomato purée RECIPE AT SAQ.COM (passata) CAROLINE : 250 mL (1 cup) water DIRECTIONS 4 SERVINGS (main) OR 8 SERVINGS (starter) STYLIST 1 pinch crushed red pepper Preparation: 15 minutes Cooking: 1 hour 20 minutes Salt and freshly ground ACCESSORIES black pepper, to taste STEP 1 and season with the salt and pepper. Leave to Cut the lamb into cubes of about simmer, covered, for at least one hour, stirring ASSISTANT.

Pasta 1 1/2 cm (1/2 inch). occasionally. Add a little more water if the

360 g (13 oz) pici* sauce thickens too much during cooking. COLE, STEP 2 WILLIAM 30 mL (2 tbsp) flat-leaf parsley, chopped In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil and STEP 3 lightly brown the lamb cubes on all sides. Add Cook the pasta in boiling salted water. Drain 30 mL (2 tbsp) extra-virgin olive oil

the onion, garlic, rosemary and sage leaves. and toss in a bowl with half the sauce. Mix TOGRAPHER; in the chopped parsley and the olive oil. 60 g (1/4 cup) grated Cook on very low for 10 minutes. Incorporate PHO the wine and let reduce by half for about eight

Toscano** ANTU, minutes, scraping the brown bits from the STEP 4

*Pici is available at fine food stores. bottom of the pan. Add the tomato purée. Then Divide the pasta among plates, top DOROB can be used as a substitute. pour the water into the purée jar and add to with the rest of the sauce and sprinkle D

** Pecorino Toscano, an ewe’s milk cheese, is the preparation. Stir in the crushed red pepper with the grated cheese.

available in specialty cheese shops across Quebec. RECIPE: ANA

22 March 2014 IN STORES MARCH 6 AND 20

MARCH 6 CLASSIC REGIONAL COMBO Food and wine are regional throughout Italy, and Tuscany is the only place where I have ever eaten pici (sometimes spelled pinci or picci), a thick tube-shaped pasta like a fat spaghetti. Of course, the pasta isn’t what makes the pairing. Pici is here served with a tomato-lamb sauce. To pull off a match with tomatoey dishes, you want a wine that’s not too tannic and has good acidity – precisely the qualities of Fontodi’s Chianti Classico, crafted from Sangiovese, a grape so widely cultivated in Tuscany that it virtually defines the region. In addition to tomato, the sauce contains lamb, rosemary and sage, making it rich and complex. Such flavourful fare calls for a flavourful wine, and the organically grown Fontodi fits the bill: It has evident but not excessive tannins, and its notes of underbrush and are a foil for the meat and herbs in the sauce, creating good balance. Buon appetito! – Élyse Lambert, sommelier

WA 92 WS 91 Hambar Restaurant, in Old Montreal. ITALY 2023 FONTODI 2009, CHIANTI CLASSICO $27.75 00879841, 750 ML, 14% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 131 Finesse and character mingle in this cuvée, aged for 12 months in French . The 70-hectare WHAT A HAM! property is certified organic. GRAPE: SANGIOVESE he hanging hams in its octogenarian who introduced him to this huge window telegraph to traditional savoury pork roast and who was AROMAS passersby that Montreal’s willing to share his recipe and savoir faire. TOBACCO, BLACK CHERRY, T Hambar Restaurant Bar is one The Hambar wine list, meanwhile, boasts ANISE NOTES, LICORICE ACIDITY – MODERATE establishment where the whole private imports and a section that will deli concept is practically a religion. We’re satisfy the most discerning palate. But then, SUGAR LEVEL – DRY spotlighting Italy in this issue, so the fantastic Poitras was once the sommelier at Au Pied BODY – MEDIUM melt-in-your-mouth on Hambar’s de Cochon. Speaking of wine, should you be deli platter is worth singling out. “It’s made in the mood for charcuteries, this Fontodi PALATE – GENEROUS here,” owner Philippe Poitras says proudly. possesses the requisite freshness to take on WOOD – EVIDENT He fell in love with porchetta on a trip to the fat and saltiness in prosciutto, sausages Italy and brought to Montreal the Abruzzi and other deli meats.

March 2014 23 IN STORES MARCH 6 AND 20 VENERABLE CHIANTI (CONTINUED)

WINERY OLIVE OILS On Italian dinner tables, the olive oil is at least as important as the wine. And in country, olive trees grow alongside grapevines. Almost all produce and sell their own oils, which just like the wines have protected designations of origin. Olive oils made in the Chianti Classico DOCG, for example, are entitled to be labelled with that appellation. Tuscan olive oils, produced from specific olive varieties such as Frantoio, are among Italy’s tastiest. They are intense and piquant, many carrying the peppery note that’s the region’s trademark. PHOTOS: COLIN DUTTON/SIME (OLIVE OIL); MICK ROCK/CEPHAS (VINEYARD). COLIN DUTTON/SIME PHOTOS:

24 March 2014 MARCH 6

The Chianti appellation just east of Florence boasts spectacular scenery. The steep hills are part of the Apennines, a mountain range that runs the length of Italy, skirting Tuscany en route. IWC 95 WS 89

ITALY 2023 FATTORIA SELVAPIANA, BUCERCHIALE RISERVA 2009, CHIANTI RUFINA THE SEVEN SATELLITES $32.50 12132123, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV hianti Classico, the most to rivaling Chianti Classico: The zone’s NUMBER OF CASES: 125 prestigious delimited distinctive wines were garnering praise The property in the classic appellation has been owned zone in Chianti, has seven as far back as the 18th century. The famed C so-called satellite appellations. family is a major player in by Francesco Giuntini since 1957. This, its flagship Collectively they account Rufina, owning fully 20 percent of the wine, is sourced from old vines. for a little more than 6,000 of Chianti’s vineyard area. GRAPE: SANGIOVESE total 24,000 hectares of vines. Most Rufino vineyards are on clay- Like Chianti Classico and the limestone soils, very beneficial to vines. AROMAS generic Chianti appellation, each of The appellation is protected to the north DARK FRUIT, HERBS, the seven peripheral appellations has by a small mountain chain that keeps DRIED FLOWERS, ANISE, PEANUT, LEATHER its own identity. They are: Chianti Colli the climate warmer and drier than ACIDITY – MODERATE Senesi, Chianti Colli Pisane, Chianti the regional norm. Meanwhile, sea Colli Fiorentini, Chianti Colli Aretini breezes from the Mediterranean exert SUGAR LEVEL – DRY (respectively the hills around Siena, a moderating influence, enabling slower BODY – FULL Pisa, Florence and ), Chianti ripening that promotes better aroma Montalbano, Chianti Montespertoli development. Yields are limited and PALATE – GENEROUS and Chianti Rufina. there are many old vines. All these WOOD – EVIDENT Chianti Rufina has long been seen elements reinforce the character of as the appellation that comes closest the wines – and their aging potential.

March 2014 25 WINE REGION TUSCANY | CHIANTI CLASSICO

• Chianti heartland Chianti Classico, Chianti’s “classic” zone, was given its geographical delimitation by the Medici Grand Duke Cosimo III in an edict of 1716 (and expanded in 1932). The historic sector, located in the heart of the region, produces wines that have red-fruit notes, good acidity and firm tannins, and are considered the best Chiantis. • Big-name producers Accounting for just under one-third of the Chianti vineyard area, the Chianti Classico zone turns out from 33- to 40-million bottles a year, including wines by top Italian producers like Antinori, Frescobaldi and Banfi. • Comeback kid In the 1960s and ’70s, Chianti produced huge volumes of light reds that contained up to 30-percent white grapes. All that changed in 1984, when new rules dramatically cut yields and altered the permitted grapes, including disallowing the addition of white grapes. The upshot was greatly improved quality. Paula Papini Cook grew • Appealing and age-worthy Today’s Chianti up in Saint-Bruno-de- Classico wines are made from 80- to 100-percent Montarville and studied Sangiovese, with local ( and ) or winemaking in France international (Cabernet Sauvignon, or Merlot) and Italy. She’s been varieties as the other grapes in the blend. The wines managing her parents’ can be fruity and easy-drinking, but the Riserva cuvées Chianti Classico winery, are very age-worthy. Le Miccine, since 2010.

GR

ITALY 2019 LE MICCINE, RISERVA 2010, MARCH 6 Florence Chianti CHIANTI CLASSICO Rùfina $24.80 11580135, 750 ML, Pisa 13.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 149 RELLINI/SIME. Crafted by Quebecer Paula Papini Cook, this cuvée earned the top URIZIO tre bicchieri score in the prestigious MA

Gambero Rosso guide. COOK); . P

Chianti .

GRAPE: SANGIOVESE (P

Chianti Classico O AROMAS FRESH HERBS, BLACK Siena CHERRY, UNDERBRUSH Tuscany ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – MEDIUM BORZONI/TERRAPROJECT/CONTRAST PALATE – GENEROUS MICHELE WOOD – EVIDENT PHOTOS: IN STORES MARCH 6 AND 20 VENERABLE CHIANTI (CONTINUED)

MARCH 6 WHERE SANGIOVESE RULES Chianti aside, Tuscany as a wine-producing region revolves around one common factor: the dominant role played by the Sangiovese grape. It rules in Brunello di (Tuscany's most revered appellation), Morellino di Scansano and Carmignano. It's significant A festive dinner in Siena’s in the and appellations, where Supertuscans Piazza Santo Spirito on and international varieties enjoy greater favour. One of our New the eve of Italy’s most Arrivals, the Vino Nobile di , is a Sangiovese famous horserace, the produced in the town of Montepulciano – and is not to be confused Palio di Siena, which with Montepulciano d’ wines, crafted in the Abruzzi region attracts spectators from from the Montepulciano grape. around the world.

JR 16.5 WS 92

ITALY 2025 CANNETO, RISERVA 2007, VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO $34.75 12108756, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 125 The Canneto estate was bought by a dozen Vino Nobile enthusiasts who wanted to further their passion. This wine is a Cellier favourite. GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, MERLOT, CABERNET

AROMAS BLACK CHERRY, CHOCOLATE, FLOWERS, HERBS ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – MEDIUM PALATE – GENEROUS WOOD – EVIDENT

March 2014 27 The winemaking team uses oak barrels for two to six months before switching to stainless steel. “We’re aiming for freshness and smoothness, with a touch of wood,” says winery owner Paradis.

The proprietor is proud of Clos du Maréchal, made mainly from Maréchal Foch. “It’s a hybrid grape that’s more difficult to work with than other, hardier hybrids because it has to be well protected in winter,” Paradis says. But the extra effort is worth it. Quebec Terroir FROM POLITICS TO PARADISE CANADA DOMAINE DU RIDGE, The love affair continues between former federal CLOS DU MARÉCHAL 2012 RED WINE, QUEBEC cabinet minister Denis Paradis and the winery $16.90 10220373, 750 ML, he created nearly two decades ago. 12% ABV Ex-politician and lawyer Denis Paradis hasn’t looked back since he planted y neighbour offered me plants at $1.50 per and I thought that was the first vines at his impressive such a great price I bought 2,000 of them,” Denis Paradis recalls Saint-Armand property in 1996. “ with a laugh. After planting those Seyval Blanc vines 18 years ago, PAIRINGS: GRILLED CHICKEN, M he added many other grape varieties and now his vineyard in the VEGETARIAN PIZZA Brome-Missisquoi region has about 55,000 vines, making it one GRAPES: MARÉCHAL FOCH, of Quebec’s largest. “It took me 15 years to get a return on my investment, but LUCY KUHLMAN, DE CHAUNAC I’d do it all over again tomorrow,” declares the one-time politician. Some 3,000 people visit his Domaine du Ridge in Saint-Armand every summer, and Paradis AROMAS RED FRUIT, FLOWERS, personally greets all of them. “I’ve learned that when it comes to producing wine, HERBS, VEGETAL NOTES you cannot play it by ear,” he observes. Two French winemakers, the well-known ACIDITY – LIVELY Jean Berthelot and the young Julia Torchut, a native of Bordeaux, craft the wines. There’s also a vineyard manager and “a couple of kids in their 20s,” as Paradis SUGAR LEVEL – DRY .

affectionately refers to them, who handle sales and marketing. “With this kind BODY – LIGHT LAFOND of team, my ultimate goal is to produce the best red wine in Quebec.” PALATE – GENEROUS DOMINIQUE For information on Quebec alcohol producers, go to alcoolsduterroir.com WOOD – UNOAKED

(in French only). PHOTO:

28 March 2014 Limited quantities. may vary from store to store. MARCH 6

JR 16 GR WS 89

P. 26 ITALY ITALY 2018 ITALY ITALY 2017 ITALY 2019 PANIZZI 2012, CARUSSIN, LIA VÍ 2012, PLANETA, PLUMBAGO 2011, CASTELLO D’ALBOLA, RISERVA LE MICCINE, RISERVA 2010, DI BARBERA D’ASTI SICILIA 2008, CHIANTI CLASSICO CHIANTI CLASSICO $20.90 12102821, 750 ML, $21.85 12131121, 750 ML, $22.20 11724776, 750 ML, $23.95 10254717, 750 ML, $24.80 11580135, 750 ML, 13% ABV 13% ABV 13.5% ABV 13% ABV 13.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 200 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 125 NUMBER OF CASES: 250 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 140 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 149 Giovanni Panizzi founded his Family winery produces Label depicts plumbago, Horizontal tanks to facilitate Crafted by Quebecer Paula eponymous winery in 1989. traditional-style wines. a flowering plant that grows extraction were installed during Papini Cook, this cuvée earned It specializes in Vernaccia, Lia Ví has no contact with around Planeta’s vineyards modernization of the winery, the top tre bicchieri score an iconic Tuscan grape. wood so retains fruit purity. in western Sicily. owned by Zonin for more than in the prestigious Gambero PAIRING: COD WITH PAIRING: MARINATED PAIRING: HERB-AND- 30 years. Rosso guide. LEMON BUTTER FLANK STEAK PROSCIUTTO-CRUSTED PORK PAIRINGS: LASAGNA, ITALIAN- PAIRING: CHICKEN CHASSEUR TENDERLOIN STYLE VEAL WITH TOMATOES GRAPE: VERNACCIA GRAPE: BARBERA GRAPE: SANGIOVESE GRAPE: NERO D’AVOLA GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, CANAIOLO

AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS VEGETAL, RESIN, ALMOND, CHERRY, STRAWBERRY, BLACKBERRY, PEONY, RIPE FRUIT, CHERRY, FRESH HERBS, BLACK WHITE FRUIT SWEET SPICES, VIOLETS MINT, PRUNE LEATHER, TOBACCO CHERRY, UNDERBRUSH ACIDITY – LIVELY ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – DISCREET ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – LIGHT BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM PALATE – DELICATE PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT

March 2014 29 MARCH 6

JR 16.5 WA 92 JR 16.5+ WS 91

P. 9 P. 23 ITALY 2016 ITALY 2023 ITALY 2020 ITALY 2019 ITALY 2021 MASSERIA SETTEPORTE, FONTODI 2009, FRATELLI ALESSANDRIA, CARPINETO, RISERVA 2009, ISOLE E OLENA 2011, ETNA ROSSO 2010, ETNA ROSSO CHIANTI CLASSICO PRINSIÒT 2011, LANGHE CHIANTI CLASSICO CHIANTI CLASSICO $25.75 12134145, 750 ML, $27.75 00879841, 750 ML, $28.45 12131104, 750 ML, $28.50 10300023, 750 ML, $29.95 00515296, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV 14% ABV 14.5% ABV 13.5% ABV 14% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 150 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 131 NUMBER OF CASES: 100 NUMBER OF CASES: 149 NUMBER OF CASES: 125 The small domaine of barely Finesse and character mingle in A wine to delight Piedmont fans. A first-rate Chianti at a Owner Paolo de Marchi, 15 hectares is located high this cuvée, aged for 12 months Prinsiòt means “little princes,” reasonable price. Quebecers are passionate proponent of in the foothills of Mount Etna, in French oak. The 70-hectare an historical nickname for the very fond of Carpineto wines. Sangiovese, is recognized one of the world’s most property is certified organic. Alessandria family. PAIRING: ROAST CHICKEN worldwide as one of the top active volcanoes. PAIRING: BEEF STEW WITH PAIRING: VEAL WITH CHANTERELLES experts in the variety. PAIRING: PASTA WITH STAR ANISE WITH TOMATO SAUCE GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, CANAIOLO PAIRING: DUCK BREAST WITH GRILLED CHICKEN GRAPE: SANGIOVESE GRAPE: NEBBIOLO MUSHROOMS GRAPE: NERELLO MASCALESE GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, CANAIOLO

AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS COOKED STRAWBERRY, TOBACCO, BLACK CHERRY, RED FLOWERS, SPICES, DARK FRUIT, CEDAR, RED FRUIT, COCOA, HERBS, PEPPER, GRAPHITE ANISE NOTES, LICORICE CHERRY, CEDAR TOBACCO, SPICES WOOD, HERBS ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT

30 March 2014 ICON LEGEND

WHITE WINE RED WINE Favourite SOURCES CITED: WINE PROFILE CHART drink now through hold until GR: Gambero Rosso JR: Jancis Robinson (out of 20) drink now the year indicated the year indicated ( , , , Presence and intensity red glasses for superior wines) WA : Wine Advocate, Robert Parker of acidity, body, wood The potential longevity of a wine when stored in the proper conditions. Note that this is simply IWC : International , (out of 100) and other elements at a guideline, with the exceptions – and they are numerous! – proving the rule. Stephen Tanzer (out of 100) WS : Wine Spectator (out of 100) the time of tasting. MARCH 6

IWC 95 IWC 90 JR 16.5 WA 91 WS 89 WS 92 WS 90

P. 25 P. 27 P. 10 ITALY 2023 ITALY 2023 ITALY 2025 ITALY 2020 ITALY 2028 FATTORIA SELVAPIANA, BRUNO GIACOSA, NEBBIOLO CANNETO, RISERVA 2007, BRANCAIA, RISERVA 2010, ELENA FUCCI, TITOLO 2010, BUCERCHIALE RISERVA 2009, D’ALBA 2011, NEBBIOLO D’ALBA VINO NOBILE DI CHIANTI CLASSICO AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE CHIANTI RUFINA $33.50 12102848, 750 ML, MONTEPULCIANO $35.00 10431091, 750 ML, $36.25 12134014, 750 ML, $32.50 12132123, 750 ML, 14% ABV $34.75 12108756, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV 14% ABV 14.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 125 14.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 121 NUMBER OF CASES: 124 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 125 The name of this noble grape, NUMBER OF CASES: 125 After buying the then- Dubbed the Barolo of the south, The property in the classic used in the great Barolos The Canneto estate was abandoned Brancaia in 1981, Aglianico del Vulture gets its appellation has been owned and Barbarescos, references bought by a dozen Vino Nobile the Widmers rejuvenated the name from the ancient lava flow by Francesco Giuntini Antinori the morning mists in the enthusiasts who wanted to estate and now produce tasty on which the appellation sits. since 1957. This, its flagship Piedmont hills. further their passion. This wine modern wines. PAIRING: GRILLED GAME wine, is sourced from old vines. is a Cellier favourite. PAIRING: MUSHROOM PAIRING: ROSEMARY LEG OF LAMB GRAPE: AGLIANICO OSSO BUCCO PAIRING: STEWED LAMB PAIRING: LIGHTLY SPICED GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, MERLOT PORK TAJINE GRAPE: SANGIOVESE GRAPE: NEBBIOLO GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, MERLOT, CABERNET

AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS DARK FRUIT, HERBS, UNDERBRUSH, RED FRUIT, BLACK CHERRY, AROMAS RIPE FRUIT, EUCALYPTUS, DRIED FLOWERS, ANISE, EAU-DE-VIE, WOOD, CHOCOLATE, FLOWERS, CHERRY, WOOD, EAU-DE-VIE, LEATHER, INCENSE, PEANUT, LEATHER TOBACCO HERBS WHITE PEPPER BALSAMIC NOTES ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – FULL BODY – FULL BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT

March 2014 31 Products are available in limited quantities. No layaways are permitted until the Monday following the release of the products. Prices are subject to change without notice. MARCH 20

WA 90 JR 16 WS 90

P. 19 ITALY FRANCE ITALY FRANCE 2018 FRANCE 2016 GINI, LA FROSCÀ 2011, VINCENT PINARD, FLORÈS PRÀ, MONTE GRANDE 2012, BACHELDER, FRANÇOIS COLLARD, CHÂTEAU SOAVE CLASSICO 2011, SOAVE CLASSICO LES BAS LIARDS 2011, LA TOUR DE BÉRAUD 2011, $26.85 12132107, 750 ML, $29.45 12097962, 750 ML, $30.00 12132140, 750 ML, SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES 13% ABV 13% ABV 13.5% ABV $34.50 12089567, 750 ML, $16.30 12102629, 750 ML, NUMBER OF CASES: 125 NUMBER OF CASES: 100 NUMBER OF CASES: 125 12.5% ABV 13.5% ABV Family winery in the historic Seventeen-hectare domaine is Prà is a player in the Soave NUMBER OF CASES: 164 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 200 Soave Classico zone. La Froscà on calcareous soils that yield revival. Low-yield old vines Globe-trotting Montreal native Small family winery is one of is sourced entirely from a hill a of striking grown at elevation make this Thomas Bachelder makes the few to work with Marselan, of that name. purity and great complexity. an exceptional cuvée. wines in several regions around a cross between Cabernet PAIRING: GRILLED HONEY-THYME PAIRING: SCALLOP CEVICHE WITH PAIRING: TROUT IN the world, but Burgundy is his Sauvignon and Noir. PORK CHOPS FRESH CORIANDER BEURRE BLANC spiritual home. PAIRING: THYME PORK GRAPE: GARGANEGA GRAPE: SAUVIGNON BLANC GRAPES: GARGANEGA, PAIRING: BRESSE CHICKEN GRAPES: CARIGNAN, MARSELAN, TREBBIANO DI SOAVE WITH CREAM AND MORELS SYRAH, GRENACHE GRAPE: CHARDONNAY

AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS PEAR, HONEY, TEA, PEACH, PEAR, MINERALITY, PEAR, BAKED APPLE, MELON, PEAR, OAK, BLACKBERRY, RASPBERRY, MINERALITY FRESH HERBS SWEET SPICES HAZELNUT THYME, INCENSE, PEONY ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – LIVELY ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – FULL BODY – MEDIUM PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – RICH PALATE – GENEROUS WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – UNOAKED

32 March 2014 ANDRÉ DANIEL LUC VIOLA BONASSO DALLAIRE

These wine advisors were on the tasting committee and helped select the Cellier favourites.

wine advisor wine advisor wine advisor MARCH 20 Saint-Bruno SAQ Sélection Centropolis SAQ Sélection SAQ Restauration

IWC WA 88-90 (94-96) WS 90

P. 18 ITALY ITALY ITALY FRANCE 2018 FRANCE 2021 SANTA MARGHERITA, REFOSCO PIONA, CAMPO MASSIMO PRÀ, MORANDINA 2012, PIERRE LURTON, CHÂTEAU MICHEL CHAPOUTIER, LISON PRAMAGGIORE 2011, 2008, VENETO VALPOLICELLA MARJOSSE 2010, BORDEAUX BILA-HAUT OCCULTUM VENETO $19.40 12132035, 750 ML, $21.65 12131964, 750 ML, $23.00 10849534, 750 ML, LAPIDEM 2011, CÔTES DU $19.05 12208538, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV 13.5% ABV 14.5% ABV ROUSSILLON-VILLAGES 14% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 150 NUMBER OF CASES: 150 NUMBER OF CASES: 125 $25.50 11940698, 750 ML, NUMBER OF CASES: 200 14.5% ABV Perfect for the first warm Graziano Prà, known for his An audacious and affordable red NUMBER OF CASES: 500 Indigenous to northern Italy, days of spring, and a Cellier role in the renaissance of the from Bordeaux’s well-known the Refosco grape has a fruity favourite. Has a scrumptious Soave DOC, brings equal care Pierre Lurton. A great find. An outstanding ambassador for Rhône wines, Chapoutier also and thirst-quenching quality quality that will beguile to crafting his biodynamically PAIRING: FILET MIGNON WITH that produces a delicious, Beaujolais fans. grown reds. PEPPER SAUCE produces this delicious wine in the Roussillon region to the south. easy-to-enjoy wine. PAIRING: PIZZA MARGHERITA PAIRING: MAIN-DISH SALAD GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET PAIRINGS: VEGETARIAN FETA WITH BEEF STRIPS SAUVIGNON, , PAIRING: HERB-CRUSTED GRAPE: CORVINA CABERNET FRANC RACK OF LAMB PIZZA, ANTIPASTI GRAPES: CORVINA, CORVINONE, GRAPE: REFOSCO RONDINELLA, OSELETA GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH, CARIGNAN

AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS RED PEPPER, RED FRUIT, AROMAS MOCHA, DARK FRUIT, VIOLETS, FRESH FRUIT, RED FRUIT, FRUIT DROPS, FLOWERS, TOMATO, WOOD, ANIMAL NOTES, BALSAMIC NOTES, RIPE WILD FRUIT FLORAL NOTES YELLOW CHERRY DARK FRUIT, UNDERBRUSH BLACK OLIVE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – MEDIUM BODY – LIGHT BODY – LIGHT BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – DELICATE PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT

March 2014 33 MARCH 20

JR 16 WA 90 WA 93

P. 17 P. 15 ITALY 2019 ITALY 2020 FRANCE 2019 ITALY 2018 FRANCE 2020 TRABUCCHI D’ILLASI, TERRE VIGNALTA, MARRANO LA FERME DU MONT, MARION 2009, CHÂTEAU FOMBRAUGE 2006, DI SAN COLOMBANO 2007, 2007, VENETO VENDANGE 2010, VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE $28.90 12131391, 750 ML, CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE $39.00 10710268, 750 ML, $49.50 12097989, 750 ML, $26.95 12131981, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV $37.75 12097858, 750 ML, 14% ABV 14% ABV 13.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 150 (6 BOTTLES) 14.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 224 NUMBER OF CASES: 125 NUMBER OF CASES: 124 Veneto property Vignalta NUMBER OF CASES: 100 (6 BOTTLES) Some of the grapes used Proprietor Bernard Magrez Made in the appassimento is splendidly situated at In tune with his , for this wine are dried to also owns Château Pape method, resulting in lots elevation – hence its name, Stéphane Vedeau sources concentrate the flavours, Clément. Fombrauge combines of volume and structure. a contraction of vigna and his beloved Grenache from resulting in a richer, more Bordeaux-style elegance with A long way from traditional alta, or “high vines.” old vines growing in highly generous Valpolicella. modern oakiness. Valpolicella. PAIRING: MARBLED MEAT WITH mineral soils. PAIRING: DUCK CONFIT PAIRING: GRILLED BEEF WITH PAIRING: VEAL CHOPS WITH PORT SAUCE AND PAN-SAUTÉED PAIRING: PRIME RIB OF BEEF GRAND VENEUR SAUCE WILD MUSHROOMS GRAPES: CORVINA GENTILE, TOMATOES AND OLIVES AU JUS CORVINA GROSSA, RONDINELLA, GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET GRAPES: CORVINA, CORVINONE, GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, GRAPES: GRENACHE, TEROLDEGO FRANC, CABERNET SAUVIGNON RONDINELLA MERLOT MOURVÈDRE, SYRAH AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS COOKED FRUIT, ANIMAL DARK FRUIT, UNDERBRUSH, AROMAS COOKED FRUIT, WILD FRUIT, AROMAS NOTES, SWEET SPICES, LEATHER, ROASTED NOTES, KIRSCH CHERRY, PASTRY, GRENADINE SYRUP, WOOD NOTES, TOMATO, TAPENADE MOLASSES, BUTTER SWEET SPICES, FLOWERS SWEET SPICES BELL PEPPER, MINERALITY ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – DISCREET ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – MEDIUM BODY – FULL BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – FULL PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – PRONOUNCED WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – PRONOUNCED WOOD – EVIDENT

34 March 2014 RENDEZ-VOUS DU CINÉMA QUÉBÉCOIS – February 20 to March 1, 2014 MONTRÉAL EN LUMIÈRE – February 20 to March 2, 2014

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D107590A_Ann_Mag_Cellier_AN.indd 1 2013-12-20 16:25

CYAN MAGENTA YELLOW BLACK 9" x 10,875" InDesign CS4 CS3 CLIENT : SAQ D107590A_Ann_Mag_Cellier_AN ML Montage à 100 % du format final PUBLICATION : MAGAZINE CELLIER SAQ (100202313) PAGE 1 Épreuve à 100 % du montage PARUTION : MARS 2014 19/12/13 ÉPREUVE 1 Impression finale à 100 % Photos vérifiées R.-C. NO DOSSIER : 100202313 Rédaction Directeur Direction Service à Client Réalisateur Correction Commentaires FORMAT : 9” x 10,875” de création artistique la clientèle d’épreuves ATTENTION CD/DVD COULEURS : 4 COULEURS Le « trapping » est à faire par FTP l’imprimeur selon ses propres specs. Date : 20.12.2013