Super Tuscans WINE

TOM BLACK Super Tuscans WINE It’s been said that, “The price of the wine is forgotten long after the flavor remains.” Well, recently the world has turned more and more to Italian wines to receive value for the price. Everyone has a budget, some more than ever. When someone asked me what I thought of Super Tuscan wines, I answered, “Which ones?” Super Tuscan wines are many and varied. They can be white or red (mostly red) and they come from all over Tuscany. Tuscany is a wine region in central Italy about the size of New Hampshire. Beside Super Tuscan wines, it’s also home to Italy’s most famous wine, Chianti. It’s also home to the elegant and popular Brunello di Montalcino. So what is a Super Tuscan wine? It is an unofficial category of wines. In Tuscany Chianti and Brunello di Montal- cino are officially regulated wines. Super Tuscans are not. However, for about 30 years now these wines have existed unofficially. Here are some of the things that generally reflect a Super Tuscan red or white: First, the grape blend is unconventional, like Sangiovese and Merlot. Second, they are usually made in small quanti- ties. Third, they usually have an international or modern style. Fourth, they have no official DOC status. Usually they are classified as “vini da tavola”. Why did they get started? About 30 years ago Chianti had to be made with Sangiovese and about 10% white wine. Makers wanting a more fullbodied wine for an international market began adding Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s often thought that Tignanello was the first of these Super wines but Sassicaia was the 1st made in 1968. It was probably the first of the world class Super Tuscans. I’ve had a 68 Sassicaia and it would pass of Bordeaux, about 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for the balance. By law now, Sassicaia must be 80% Cabernet Sauvignon. Although unofficial blends of Super wines can be found all over Tuscany and even Italy, a large pocket exsists in Bolgheri and directly below Bolgheri in Maremma. Both of these zones are along the coast and feature such famous Super Tuscans as Masseto, Ornellaia, Saffredis, Guado al Tasso, and Tua Rita. More, about Super Tuscans. There are no rules! They don’t have to be blends they can be 100% Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah or other. They can actually have a DOC designation now (like Sassicaia) and they can cost from $15 to $500. Many times these Super Tuscans have been voted the #1, #2, or #3 wine made anywhere in the world by Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator magazines. Wine Enthusiast reports over “300” wines that fit the Super Tuscan profile (if there is a profile). Only the Shadow knows for sure. Recently because of the proliferation of this label, “Super Tuscan”, the image has become foggy. Tuscany wouldn’t be what it is today without the label Super Tuscan but it has become diluted in the last few years. More and more Tuscan producers whine (that’s a pun) when this label is used to describe their wine. If you buy what is considered a traditional Super Tuscan wine, expect a lot of ripe fruit on the attack. As it ages, leather and chocolate will emerge and there should be a nice long finish of ripe tannins. If this is the wine you’re buying drink it with steak or lamb, especially grilled meat. I hope you’ll discover some Super Tuscans if you haven’t. For it’s as Ben Franklin said, “The discovery of a wine is a greater pleasure than the discovery of a new constellation. The universe is too full of stars.”.

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