Shikoku Pilgrimage

SShhiikkookkuu PPiillggrriimmaaggee A Guide For Non-Japanese Copyright by Naoyuki Matsushita 2017 Translated and edited by David Turkington Cooperation: Tourism Tokushima All Rights Reserved Introduction Newly born babies are just a body, but as they live their lives and the years pile up, everything, from the necessary to the unnecessary, begins to adhere to them. Then when death comes, we are wrapped up in family, all of the possessions we leave behind, flowers, memories, … What about stopping here and throwing yourself with impartiality into all things; into pure nature, into the universe, into the simplicity of surrendering yourself to natural and spontaneous activity - just like plants and animals. The world of simplicity lies there. I wonder why. Even I don't understand. When walking in places like mountain trails in the evening, and even more so when it is raining, something rises in my throat, tears spontaneously fall from my eyes, and I'm overcome by sentimental feelings. In order to live a better life we should undertake the pilgrimage, and it is OK to do so alone. Pilgrimage is extraordinarily profound, but we have elusive general ideas about it. Yet even with the endless wondering to ourselves, loitering among the uncertainties that come and go, over and over again, there is a “you” that sets out on pilgrimage again. Thus, this sacred journey, where people seek a mental and emotional high ground, has no end. Being a human being means being a pilgrim. The purpose of this book is to alleviate the anxiety that non-Japanese pilgrims (who know little compared to Japanese pilgrims) might have about the weather, the history, and the many other aspects of the pilgrimage. I have comprehensively collected information and put together concise summaries of each area. The intended reader is a walking pilgrim, but because I have also included information for other types of pilgrims, such as those who undertake it by car, please refer to those sections that are appropriate and essential for you. Chapter 22, Legends & Folklore Found Along The Pilgrimage, was compiled with the purpose of allowing non-Japanese who walk the pilgrimage to understand the meaning and historical background of the things they see and hear while on the walk so that they can have a deeper understanding of the pilgrimage and its significance. Regarding the religious theme of the pilgrimage, this book was edited while paying constant attention to maximum non-sectarianism, but given the differences in individual understanding and interpretation, in areas where you think there is too much or too little content, please be understanding. Naoyuki Matsushita http://henro88map.com Translated and edited from Japanese by David Turkington http://www.shikokuhenrotrail.com/ from left David Turkington / David C. Moreton / Tom Ward / Naoyuki Matsushita Table of Contents 1. What Is The Pilgrimage? ........................................................................................................ 1 2. The Shikoku Region ................................................................................................................ 3 3. The Pilgrimage Season ........................................................................................................... 4 4. The Number of Days Required and Elevation/Distance Data ................................................ 7 5. Approaches To Walking The Pilgrimage .............................................................................. 10 6. How To Get Around The Island ............................................................................................ 13 7. Cost and ATMs ..................................................................................................................... 18 8. Walking: Advice for planning your pilgrimage ..................................................................... 22 9. Lodging ................................................................................................................................. 29 10. General Information .......................................................................................................... 36 11. Clothing and Equipment .................................................................................................... 40 12. Worshipping At The Temples ............................................................................................. 50 13. Admonitions For Pilgrims ................................................................................................... 59 14. Osettai ................................................................................................................................ 61 15. Kōbō Daishi (Kūkai) ............................................................................................................ 62 16. History of The Pilgrimage ................................................................................................... 64 17. Glossary and Miscellaneous Information .......................................................................... 68 18. An Introduction To Buddhist Statues ................................................................................. 79 19. Access ................................................................................................................................. 83 20. Useful Basic Japanese ........................................................................................................ 88 21. Public Information In Foreign Languages .......................................................................... 92 22. Legends and Folklore Found Along The Pilgrimage ........................................................... 95 1. What Is The Pilgrimage? The Shikoku Pilgrimage (also referred to as the OHenro) is a magnificent pilgrimage to eighty-eight sacred temples dotted around the island of Shikoku, where it is said that Kōbō Daishi (Kūkai) [774—835] performed ascetic religious practices. A journey of 1,142 km, this is, I think, an activity allowing pilgrims to approach a state of enlightenment while surrounded by such treasures as the sacred temples, natural roadside scenery, climate, people, culture, and stone Buddhas. Furthermore, in modern times, besides religious ascetic practices, the pilgrimage is undertaken for many other reasons, such as recovery from an illness, memorializing the death of a close relative, and praying for the well-being of your household. Other purposes are wishing for healing and enrichment of your heart & mind, health, refreshing your spirit, mountaineering and hiking, and tourism. Indeed, in modern times people have begun to see this as a healing and therapeutic journey. Because the nature of the pilgrimage is a “sacred journey of ascetic training,” people along the route will warmly, yet solemnly, come out to greet you. Having said that, and without thinking too narrowly, from the beginning this has been a journey that offers the possibility of rediscovering who you are as faith is born and you have the opportunity to reexamine yourself. What’s more, the door is wide open and regardless of your nationality, gender, age, social status, clothing, etc., you will be welcomed by all. While walking, numerous ideas will cross your mind, such as whether certain of your past actions were right or not, or repeatedly thinking back on things you have seen and heard along the route, and then coming up with answers about it all for yourself. The Shikoku Pilgrimage is an extraordinary space that grants you opportunities such as these. So why Shikoku? Rather than reaching a destination, what is important for the pilgrim’s journey is the journey itself. It is possible, through your own actions, to achieve a sense of spiritual fulfillment and accomplishment. In addition, along the pilgrim’s journey various difficult situations will be encountered: steep mountain trails, long monotonous paved roads, rain, and getting lost. One-by-one, these become unforgettable memories and may have some effect later in your life. Of course you can find these personal experiences on other trails as well. But on Shikoku, along the route spiritual temples serve as rites of passage. The Shikoku pilgrimage 1 combines, on the one hand, nature’s abundance and bright, clear climate, with, on the other hand, a place to calmly face the sad fact of the ephemerality of life. At each of the temples you receive a temple stamp in your stamp book as proof of your visit, but besides collecting the stamps, the meaning, the significance of the journey is to accumulate countless meaningful experiences, so this is not simply a “stamp rally.” The pilgrimage is where you can refresh not just your body, but your heart, mind, and spirit. The 1,142 km route is divided into four stages (dōjō; ascetic training areas) and these form a skillful production. Going clockwise: Tokushima Prefecture The Dōjō of Resolving To Awaken. Making this resolution and (Awa) beginning to take action. Kōchi Prefecture The Dōjō of Ascetic Practice. Training to raise your spiritual (Tosa) nature. Ehime Prefecture The Dōjō of Enlightenment. Cutting through worldly passions (Iyo) (klesha) and going towards Amida’s Pure Land. Kagawa Prefecture The Dōjō of Nirvana. That transcendent state of liberation (Sanuki) where worldly desires have been defeated. The names in parentheses above are the old regional names used during the feudal period; up to 1868. In Shikoku’s case, though, because the modern prefectures still coincide with the old borders, unlike other areas

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