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Chris Rowthorn, Andrew Bender, Laura Crawford, Trent Holden ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Japan Sapporo & Hokkaidō p540 Northern Honshū p474 The Japan Alps & Central Honshū Tokyo p199 p66 #_ Hiroshima & Kyoto Mt Fuji & Western Honshū ^# p276 Around Tokyo p411 p146 Shikoku Kansai p606 p336 Kyūshū p647 Okinawa & the Southwest Islands p721 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Chris Rowthorn, Andrew Bender, Laura Crawford, Trent Holden, Craig McLachlan, Rebecca Milner, Kate Morgan, Benedict Walker, Wendy Yanagihara PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Japan . .6 TOKYO . 66 Yokohama . 184 Japan Map . .8 Kamakura . 190 East of Tokyo . 195 Japan’s Top 25 . .10 MT FUJI & AROUND TOKYO . 146 Narita . 195 Need to Know . 24 Ogasawara Mt Fuji Area . 147 Archipelago . 196 First Time Japan . 26 Mt Fuji . 147 Chichi-jima . 197 What’s New . 28 Fuji Five Lakes . 153 Haha-jima . 198 If You Like… . 29 North of Tokyo . 157 Nikkō . 157 Month by Month . 32 THE JAPAN ALPS & Gunma Prefecture . 164 Itineraries . 36 CENTRAL Mito . 167 HONSHŪ . 199 Skiing in Japan . 48 West of Tokyo . 168 Nagoya . 201 Takao-san . 168 Travel with Children . 53 Around Nagoya . .211 Oku-Tama Region . 168 Eat & Drink Like a Local . 55 Tokoname . 212 Hakone . 169 Inuyama . 212 Japan on a Budget . 60 Izu Peninsula . 174 Gifu . 215 Regions at a Glance . 62 South of Tokyo . 184 TAKESHI.K / GETTY IMAGES © JASONARNEY / GETTY IMAGES © MT FUJI P147 WIBOWO RUSLI / GETTY IMAGES © PONTO-CHŌ, KYOTO P284 NACHI TAISHA P402 Contents Gujō-Hachiman . 217 KYOTO . 276 HIROSHIMA & Hida District . 218 WESTERN Takayama . 218 KANSAI . 336 HONSHŪ . .411 Hida-Furukawa . .226 Hiroshima & Around . 414 Osaka . 338 Shirakawa-gō & Hiroshima . 414 Kōbe . 364 Gokayama . 227 Miyajima . .422 Himeji . 370 Northern Iwakuni . .426 Japan Alps . 230 Shiga Prefecture . 373 Tomo-no-ura . 427 Kamikōchi . .230 Ōtsu . 373 Onomichi . .428 Shirahone Onsen . 233 Ishiyama-dera . 375 Islands on the Hirayu Onsen . 233 Miho Museum . 375 Shimanami Kaidō . .430 Fukuchi Onsen . .234 Hikone . 375 Okayama & Around . 431 Shin-Hotaka Onsen . .234 Nagahama . 376 Okayama . 431 Nagano Nara . 377 Bizen . .436 Prefecture . 235 Around Nara . 387 Kibiji . .436 Nagano . 235 Temples Kurashiki . .438 Togakushi . 241 Southwest of Nara . 387 Shōdo-shima . .440 Karuizawa . 241 Around Yamato-Yagi . .390 Naoshima . .443 Obuse . 243 Asuka . 391 Kasaoka Islands . .446 Yudanaka . .244 Around Sakurai . 391 Yamaguchi & Around . 447 Shiga Kōgen . .244 Yoshino . .392 Yamaguchi . 447 Nozawa Onsen . 245 Kii Peninsula . 393 Akiyoshi-dai . .450 Hakuba . 247 Kōya-san . .394 Tsuwano . 451 Bessho Onsen . .249 Tanabe . .400 Shimonoseki . .454 Matsumoto . .249 Shirahama . .400 Hagi . .458 Kiso Valley Kushimoto, Nakasendō . .254 Shiono-misaki & Matsue & Around . 462 Azumino . 257 Kii-Ōshima . 401 Matsue . .463 Toyama Nachi & Kii-Katsuura . .402 Oki Islands . .466 Prefecture . 258 Shingū . .402 Izumo . 467 Toyama . .258 Hongū . .402 Iwami Ginzan . .468 Ishikawa Yunomine, Yunotsu . .469 Prefecture . 260 Watarase & Tottori & Around . 470 Kanazawa . .260 Kawa-yu Onsen . .403 Tottori . 470 Noto Peninsula . .269 Ise . .404 Daisen . 472 Kaga Onsen . 273 Northern Kansai . 407 San-in Coast Hakusan National Park . 473 National Park . 274 Moroyose . .407 Fukui Prefecture . 274 Takeno . .407 NORTHERN Fukui . 274 Kinosaki . .408 Tango Peninsula . .409 HONSHŪ Eihei-ji . 274 (TŌHOKU) . 474. Tōjinbō . 275 Amanohashidate . 410 Maizuru . 410 Fukushima Tsuruga . 275 Prefecture . 477 ON THE ROAD FRANK CARTER / GETTY IMAGES © FRANK DEIM / GETTY IMAGES © DAIGO-JI, KYOTO P304 IMPERIAL PALACE, TOKYO P69 Aizu-Wakamatsu . 477 Niigata Prefecture . 528 Abashiri . .590 Bandai Plateau . .480 Niigata . .529 Shari . 593 Miyagi Prefecture . 482 Sado-ga-shima . .530 Shiretoko National Park . .593 Sendai . .483 Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen . .536 Akan National Park . 597 Matsushima . .489 Naeba . 537 Kushiro Wetlands Ishinomaki . 491 Myōkō Kōgen . .538 National Park . .602 Naruko Onsen . .492 Kushiro . .602 Iwate Prefecture . 493 SAPPORO & Tokachi . 603 Hiraizumi . .494 HOKKAIDŌ . 540 Obihiro . .604 Ikeda . .604 Tōno . .496 Sapporo . 546 Erimo-misaki . .604 Morioka . .500 Southern Hokkaidō . 557 Poroshiri-dake . .605 Aomori Prefecture . 502 Hakodate . 557 Aomori . .502 Ōnuma Quasi-National Hakkōda-san . .505 Park . 561 SHIKOKU . 606 Towada-ko . .506 Central Hokkaidō . 562 Tokushima Prefecture . 607. Shimokita Peninsula . .508 Otaru . .562 Tokushima . .607 Hirosaki . .509 Niseko . .564 Iya Valley . 616 Akita Prefecture . 512 Shikotsu-Tōya Tsurugi-san . 621 National Park . .568 Tazawa-ko . 512 Southern Tokushima Tomakomai . 573 Nyūtō Onsen . 515 Prefecture . 621 Kakunodate . 516 Northern Hokkaidō . 573 Hiwasa . 621 Asahikawa . 573 Akita . 518 South to Muroto-misaki . 622 Furano . 575 Yamagata Prefecture . 520 Kōchi Prefecture . 623 Daisetsuzan Tsuruoka . .520 Tokushima to Kōchi . .623 National Park . 578 Dewa Sanzan . 522 Kōchi . .624 Wakkanai . .583 Yamagata . 524 Kōchi to Ashizuri-misaki .628 Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu Nakamura . .628 Yamadera . .526 National Park . .585 Ashizuri Cape . .628 Zaō Onsen . 527 Eastern Hokkaidō . 590 Contents UNDERSTAND Ehime Prefecture . 629 Kirishima-Yaku Japan Today . 762 National Park . .700 Uwajima . .629 History . 764 Matsuyama . .634 Satsuma Peninsula . 701 The People of Japan . .781 Ishizuchi-san . .640 Miyazaki Prefecture . 704 Kagawa Prefecture . .640 Miyazaki . .704 Japanese Cuisine . 786 Matsuyama to Takamatsu . .640 Aoshima & Kaeda . .708 Arts & Architecture . 800 Udo-jingū . .709 Takamatsu . .643 Traditional Japanese Around Takamatsu . .646 Obi . .709 Accommodation . .812 Nichinan-kaigan & Cape Toi . 710 Onsen . .815 KYŪSHŪ . 647 Saitobaru . 710 Living Art Fukuoka Prefecture . 650 Takachiho . 710 of the Geisha . 818. Fukuoka . .650 Ōita Prefecture . 712 Environment . 820 Dazaifu . .660 Beppu . 712 Saga Prefecture . 662 Yufuin . 718 Karatsu . .662 Usuki . 719 SURVIVAL Imari . .664 Kunisaki Peninsula . 720 GUIDE Arita . .664 Nagasaki Prefecture . 665 OKINAWA & THE Directory A–Z . 826 Nagasaki . .665 SOUTHWEST Transport . 840 Hirado . 677 ISLANDS . .721 Language . 852 Shimabara Peninsula . 679 Kagoshima Prefecture . .724 Unzen . 679 Ōsumi Islands . 724 Index . 862 Shimabara . .680 Amami Islands . 731 Map Legend . 878 Kumamoto Prefecture . 682 Okinawa Prefecture . 736 Kumamoto . .682 Okinawa-hontō . 737 Aso-san Area . 687 Islands Near Kurokawa Onsen . 691 Okinawa-hontō . 744 Kagoshima Prefecture . .691 Miyako Islands . 747 Kagoshima . .692 Yaeyama Islands . 750 SPECIAL FEATURES JEFFREY FRIEDL © Komokuten JEFFREY FRIEDL © Standing to the left of the Daibutsu is Komokuten Tōdai-ji (Lord of Limitless Vision), who serves as a guardian of the Buddha. He stands upon a demon The Daibutsu (Great Buddha) at Nara’s (jaki), which symbolises ignorance, and wields a Off the Beaten Track . 46 Restaurant Types & brush and scroll, which symbolises wisdom. Tōdai-ji is one of the most arresting sights in Japan. The awe-inspiring physical presence of the vast image is striking. It’s one of the largest bronze Buddha images in the world and it’s contained in an Buddhas Around Dainichi equally huge building, the Daibutsu-den Sixteen smaller Buddhas are arranged in a halo Sample Menus . .787 around the Daibutsu’s head, each of which sym- Hall, which is among the largest wooden Kokuzo Bosatsu bolises one of the Daibutsu’s diff erent manifesta- buildings on earth. Seated to the left of the Daibutsu is tions. They are graduated in size to appear the Tōdai-ji was built by order of Emperor Kokuzo Bosatsu, the bodhisattva same size when viewed from the ground. of memory and wisdom, to whom Shōmu during the Nara period (710–784) students pray for help in their Skiing in Japan Map . 50 and the complex was nally completed studies and the faithful pray in 798, after the capital had been moved for help on the path to enlightenment. from Nara to Kyoto. Most historians agree that the temple was built to consolidate the country and serve as its spiritual focus. Legend has it that over two million Sake . 796 labourers worked on the temple, but this is probably apocryphal. What’s certain is that its construction brought the country to the brink of bankruptcy. 3D Tokyo National The original Daibutsu was cast in bronze in eight castings over a period Tamonten of three years. The Daibutsu, or certain To the right of the parts of it, has been recast several times Daibutsu stands over the centuries. The original Daibutsu Tamonten (Lord Who Hears All), another of was covered in gold leaf and one can only the Buddha’s guard- Museum Illustration . 94 Onsen Etiquette . .817 imagine its impact on Japanese visitors ians. He holds a during the eighth century AD. pagoda, which is said to represent a divine The temple belongs to the Kegon school storehouse of wisdom. of Buddhism, one of the six schools of Buddhism popular in Japan during the Nara period. Kegon Buddhism, which comes from the Chinese Huayan Buddhist sect, is based on the Flower Garland Sutra. This sutra expresses the idea of worlds within worlds, all manifested by the Cosmic Buddha JEFFREY FRIEDL © 3D Tōdai-ji Honshū Blossom & (Vairocana or Dainichi Nyorai). The Great Buddha and the gures that surround him in the Daibutsu-den Hall are the perfect The Daibutsu (Great Buddha) Known in Sanskrit as 'Vairocana' and in Japanese as the physical symbol of this cosmological map. 'Daibutsu', this is the Cosmic Buddha that gives rise to all other Buddhas, according to Kegon doctrine. The Buddha’s hands send the messages 'fear not' and 'welcome'. FACT FILE Illustration . 382 Foliage Seasons . .821 Hole in Pillar
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