Universitäts- und Landesbibliothek Tirol

The cities and cemeteries of

Dennis, George

1883

Contents of Volume I

urn:nbn:at:at-ubi:2-12107 CONTENTS OF VOLUME I.

INTRODUCTION.

PAGI Kecent researches into the inner life of the Etruscans —Nature of the docu¬ ments whence our knowledge is acquired —Monumental Chronicles—Object of this work to give facts, not theories—Geographical position and extent of Etruria —Its three grand divisions—Etruria Proper , its boundaries and geological features —The Twelve Cities of the Confederation—Ancient and modern condition of the land—Position of —Origin of the Etruscan race—Ancient traditions —Theories of Niebuhr , Muller , Lepsius, and others—The Lydian origin probable —Oriental character of the Etrus¬ cans—Analogies in their religion and customs to those of the East —Their language still a mystery —The and numerals —Govern¬ ment of Etruria —Convention of her princes—Lower orders enthralled-1— Religion of Etruria , its effects on her political and social state—Mytho¬ logical system—The Three great Deities—The Twelve Dii Consentes—The shrouded Gods—The Nine thunder -wielding Gods—Other divinities —Fates —Genii—Lares and Lasas—Gods of the lower world—Extent and nature of —Literature —Science—Commerce—Physical con¬ veniences—Seweiage—Roads—Tunnels—Luxury —The Etruscans superior to the Greeks in their treatment of woman—Arts of Etruria —Architecture —To be learned chiefly from tombs—Walls of cities—Gates—The arch in worked out by the Etruscans —Sepulchres—Peculiarities which dis¬ tinguish them from the Roman—Imitations of temples or houses—Plastic arts —Character and styles of —Works in terra -cotta—In bronze—Statues and various implements —Works in wood and stone— Sepulchral sculpture— Scarabei —Mirrors and Caskets, with incised designs —Jewellery —The pictorial art in Etruria —Painted tombs—Varieties of style—Pottery of Etruria —Earliest ware not painted , but incised, stamped, or relieved —Painted vases classified and described—Why placed in sepulchres—Tombs rifled in bygone times—Vases of native or Greek manufacture ?—Attic character of the painted vases—Etruscan imitations of Greek vases—The Etruscans maligned by the Greeks and Romans— European civilization indebted to Etruria —Pre-eminence of Tuscan intellect in all ages ...... xxv Appendix. Greek and Etruscan vases classified according to form and use . cv xii CONTEXTS.

CHAPTER I.

VEIL— The City. PAGES Historical interest of —Site determined to be near Isola Famese —First view of Veii—Isola—The mill—Fragments of Walls—Forum of Roman Veii—Piazza d’ Armi, the Arx of Veii—Capture of Veii—The cunieuhts of Camillas—La Scaletta—Columbarium in the cliffs—Ruins of a bridge —Natural bridge called Ponte Sodo—Remains of the ancient walls and gates—Use of bricks —Ponte Formello—Ancient road —Ponte d’ Isola— Antiquity of Etruscan bridges —Extent of the Etruscan city—Past great¬ ness and present desolation—Roman imtnicipium—Progress of destruc¬ tion—Interior of a eapanna —Shepherd life in the Campagna—History of Veii—Fourteen wars with —Heroism and fate of the Fabii— The ten years’ siege—Legend of the Alban Lake—Fall of Veii—Isola Farnese , probably the necropolis of Veii—Hints to travellers . . 1 Appendix . Sepulchral niches, and modes of sepulture—Veii one of the Twelve—Isola Farnese not the Arx of Veii, nor the Castle of the Fabii . 26

CHAPTER II.

VEIL —The Cemetery.

Little to be seen in the necropolis—Sepulchral tumuli —Scenery around Veii —Grotta Campana, a painted tomb—Singular parti -coloured figures— Interpretation of the paintings —Helmet with a death -thrust —Great antiquity of the tomb proved by the paintings and masonry—Sepulchral pottery and urns—Analogy between tombs and houses—No epitaph for the Etruscan hero ...... 31

CHAPTER III.

CASTEL GIUBILEO .—FIDENJ2.

The banks of the —Site of Antemnse—Anglo-Roman sports—Campagna scenes and sounds—Sites of ancient deeds—Ponte Salaro—Site and vestiges of —Historical notices—A panorama ..... 43 Appendix . The eight captures of Fidenae ...... 53

CHAPTER IY.

MONTE MUSINO and LAGO DI BBACCIANO.

Vandals in Italy —Galera —Via Clodia—Baccano and its lake —Monte Razzano—Campagnano—Monte Musino— Popular legends-rScrofano— Lake of Bracciano — Site of Sabate discovered —Aquae Apollinares— Curious deposit of coins—Forum Clodii—Shores of the lake . . . 54 Appendix . The Via Clodia, from Rome to Cosa . 61 CONTENTS. xiii

CHAPTER Y. SUTRI.—SUTRIUM. PAGE Le Sette Yene—Monterosi—Ronciglione—Site of Satrium—Ancient walls, sewers,and gates—ViUage antiquaries—History of Sutrium—Alliance with Rome—The proverb, Ire Sutrium —Rock-hewn church—Catacombs— Amphitheatre of Sutri—Roman or Etruscan?—Its peculiarities and beauty —Tombs in the Cliffs—Grotta d’ Orlando—Legends of Sutri—Cave of the Madonna—Capranica—Vicus Matrini—Road to . . . . 62 Appendix . Emplecton masonry ...... 80

CHAPTER VI. NEPI.—NEPETE.

Park-like scenery—Nepi—Remains of its ancient walls—Picturesque ravines— Few traces of the necropolis—The modem town—History of Nepete. . 82

CHAPTER VII.

CIVITA CASTELLANA.— (VETERE8). Road from Nepi—Beauties of the Campagna—Civita much visited, but little explored-—Etruscan walls and tombs—Glen of the Treia—Glen of the Saleto—Walls and tombs—Conical pit sepulchres—Ponte Terrano— Curious cemetery in the cliffs—Shafts or chimneys—Etruscan or Faliscan inscriptions on the rocks—The viaduct—Beauties of the ravines around Civita—A word to travellers ...... 87

CHAPTER VIII.

FALLERI.—FALERII (NO VI). Tombs with porticoes—Singular inscription on an Etrusco-Roman tomb— Walls and towers of Fallen—Porta di Giove—Cliffs with sepulchral niches—Porta del Bove—Magnificent piece of walling—Extent of the city—Theatre—Convent of Sta. Maria di Falleri—Is the city Etruscan or Roman?—Historical notices of Falerii—The three cities of the Falisci— Legend of the treacherous schoolmaster—The city rebuilt on a lower site — an Etruscan, Falleri a Roman site—Shepherd-guides . 97 Appendix. The three towns of the Falisci—Falerii one of the Twelve_ iEquum Faliscum—Falleri not the Etruscan Falerii ..... 112

CHAPTER IX. FESOENNIUM.

Historical notices—Site of Fescennium uncertain—Beauty of the Ager Faliscus —Peculiarities of the scenery—Corchiano—Etruscan remains—Etruscan 51V CONTENTS.

PAGE inscription carved on the rock —Ancient roads and watercourses —Tomb with a portico and inscription —Via Amerina —Gallese—Vignanello— Soriano—Discovery of an Etruscan city —Fine relic of the ancient walls— The city is probably Fescennium , or JEquum Faliscum . - . • . . 115

CHAPTER X.

FERONIA and CAP ENA.

History of —Its site—Difficult of access—Legend of St. Domenick _Soracte —View from the ascent —Convents on the summit —S. Oreste —Probably an Etruscan site, and —The shrine of Feronia —■ Geology of Soracte—Travellers ’ trials —Local remains at Capena—Cha¬ racter of the site—Scenery of this district —Rignano —Ruins at S. Abondio —Wolves of Soracte, ancient and modern —Fire -proof feet —Tombs of Sabina ...... 124

CHAPTER XI.

ORTE.—EORTA.

Voyage up the Tiber—Beauty of this river scenery—Views of Soracte —Posi¬ tion of Horta —Locanda della Campana —Scanty records —Local anti¬ quaries —The necropolis — Excavations — Curious relics of antiquity— Castellum Amerinum —The Vadimonian Lake —Pliny ’s description of it _Its actual condition —Why chosen as battle -ground —Vale of the Tiber —Bassano—Via Amerina ...... 136

CHAPTER XII.

MONTE CIMINO .—MONS ClMINUS.

Xake of Vico—View from the summit of the Pass—The great Etruscan plain— Etruria as it was, and is ...... 146 CHAPTER XIII.

VITERBO .—SURR1NA.

Local chroniclers —Annio of Viterbo , and his forgeries —Viterbo claims to be the Fanum Voltumnas—More probably occupies the site of Surrina— Vestiges of an Etruscan town —The Museum of Etruscan relics —Tire Bazzichelli Collection—Tomb of the beautiful Galiana —Lions of Viterbo . 150

CHAPTER XIV.

FERENTO .—FERENTINUM.

Numerous Etruscan remains around Viterbo —Bacucco —Historical notices of Ferentinum —Remains on the site—The Theatre —Its sccna—Peculiar gateways —Series of arches —Architectural renown of Ferentinum —Sin¬ gular sepulchres entered by wells—Vitorchiano ...... 156 CONTENTS. xv

CHAPTEE XY. . page 'The by-roads of Italy—Scanty accommodation—Bomarzo—Etruscan town in the neighbourhood—Name unknown—Excavations in the necropolis— Grotta della Colonna—Rusticated masonry—Grotta Dipinta—Ancient caricatures—Sea-horses and water-snakes—Serpents on Etruscan monu¬ ments—Curious sarcophagus—Characteristicsof the tombs of Bomarzo—• Sepulchral furniture—An alphabet potted for posterity—Return to Yiterbo by the Ciminian ...... 1G4

CHAPTEE XYI.

CASTEL D’ ASSO.—CASTELL JJM AXIA.

The cicerone—The Bulicame—The Etruscan plain—Sepulchral glens—A street of tombs—Sculptured facades, like houses—Moulded doorways—Inscrip¬ tions—Sepulchral interiors—Economy of space—Produce of this necro¬ polis—Sepulchral varieties—The site is but recently discovered—Antiquity of the tombs—Site of the Etruscan town—Not the — More probably is Castellum Axia—Tombs in the neighbourhood . . 175 Appendix. Etruscan mouldings—Inscriptions ...... 186

CHAPTEE XVII. MUSARNA.

Etruscan town discovered in 1850 by Signor Bazzichelli—Position of the town —Walls—Gates—Two Castles—The Cemetery—Excavations and their results—Name of Musarna very doubtful ...... 188

CHAPTEE XVIII. NORCHIA.—OILCLEf

This necropolis is of recent discovery—Road from Yiterbo to Vctralla—An Etrus¬ can site—Inn at Yetralla—Path to Norchia—First view of the necropolis— The temple-tombs—Who formed them?—The pediments and their sculptures —Bas-relief under the portico—Date of the tombs—Magnificent facades and mean interiors—Sepulchral varieties—Mouldings—No inscriptions—Site of the Etruscan town—Ancient name doubtful—Canina’s opinion—Pic¬ turesque beauty of the site...... 193

CHAPTER XIX. BIEDA.—ELERA.

Scanty notices—Romantic glens—Atrue city of the dead—Site of the ancient and modem towns—Ancient bridge,and rock-hewn roads—Sewers—Fragments of the ancient walls—The modern town—Count ofS.Giorgio—Feudal power, XVI CONTENTS.

courtesy, and hospitality —A second ancient bridge—Rock-sunk roads— The Count’s domain—The Cemetery of Blera—Great variety in the sepulchres—Cornices—Door-mouldings—Conical tomb with trench and rampart—Sepulchral interiors—S. Giovanni di Bieda . . . . 20Y

CHAPTER XX.

PALO.—.

Coast-road between Eome and Civita Vecehia———Palidoro —Excavations at Selva la Kocca—Pelasgic antiquity of Alsium—A city of villas—Local remains—Tumuli of Monteroni—Shafts and galleries in the mound—Palo and its hostelry—Sea-shore scenes ..... 21!> Appendix . The Via Aurelia, from Eome to Centum Cellse . . . . 22(>

CHAPTER XXI.

CERYETEI.—AGYLLA or GMBE. Hints to travellers—Eoad to Cervetri—The Vaccina and its honours—Scenes of Yirgil’s pictures—The village, the cicerone, and the accommodation— Remote antiquity of Agylla—Change of its name to —Historical notices —Desolation of the site—Yestiges of antiquity—Picturesque scenes—The Banditaccia, a singular cemetery—A city of the dead—Tumuli—Grotta della Sedia —Arm-chair of rock—Grotta delle Cinque Sedie— Grotta dell ’Alcova —Resemblance to a temple—Architecturalinterest —Tomb op the Tarquins —Probably of the royal family of Eome— Numerous inscriptions—Sepulchral niches—Grotta de ’ Sarcofagi— Three archaic monuments of marble—Grotta del Triclinio —Paintings on its walls almost obliterated—A pretty pair—Another painted tomb, more archaic—Tomb of the Reliefs —Reliefs around the walls—Typhon and —Reliefs on the pilasters and pillars—Curious implements of domestic and sacred use—Tomb of the Seats and Shields —Its plan that of a Roman house—Arm-chairs and foot-stools hewn from the rock— Tomb of the Painted Tiles —High antiquity of these paintings— Difficult interpretation—Similar tiles in the Louvre described and illus¬ trated—Artistic peculiarities—Grotta Regulini -Galassi —Peculiar con¬ struction, and high antiquity—Very archaic furniture—The Warrior’s tomb and its contents—His household divinities—The Priest’s or Princess’s chamber, and its wonderful jewellery—The side-chambers—Deplorable condition of this sepulchre—Pelasgic alphabet and primer inscribed on a pot—Other relics of the Pelasgic tongue—Monte Abatone—Grotta Cam- PANA—Its decorations and furniture—Tomb of the Seat, Monted’Oro— Arm-chair of rock—Grotta Torlonia —Singular entrance and vestibule —Crumbling dead—Tombs at La Zambra—Terra-cotta sarcophagus in the Louvre—Another in the British Museum—Both from Cervetri—Corinthian vases, and imitations of them—Hercules strangling the priests of Busiris— Artena ...... 227

Appendix . Shields as sepulchral decorations—Genii and Junones . 284: CONTENTS. XVII

CHAPTER XXII.

SANTA SEVER A.—. PAGE The fortress of Santa Severa—Foundations of polygonal masonry —Pyrgi of Pelasgic origin —A castle , port , and nest of pirates —Its temple of Eileithyia —History —Necropolis little explored ..... 2S9

CHAPTER XXIII.

SANTA MARINELLA .—P UNIQUM. , and its tiny bay—Remains of Punicum —Puntone del Castrato —Excavations by the Duchess of Sermoneta —Discovery of an Etruscan town —What was its name ?—The Torre di Chiaruccia —Castrum Novum . 234

CHAPTER XXIV.

Cl VITA VECCHIA .—CENTUM CELLjE. Ancient and modern condition of this port —Etruscan relics at Civita Vecchia —Tombs in the neighbourhood —Excavations at La . . . 208

CHAPTER XXY.

CORNETO. TARQUINII.The— Cemetery. Corneto , and the way to it—First view of Tarquinii and its Cemetery —Cor- neto , its inns , interest , and antiquity —Carlo Awolta —The painted Tombs —Grotta Qtjerciola —First impressions—An Etruscan banquet— Dancers —Wild -boar hunt —Greek style of art—Superiority of the Etrus¬ cans to the Greeks in their treatment of the fair sex—Colours used in this tomb— Grotta de ’ Cacciatori —Frantic dances—Return from the Chase —Curious sea-shore scenes—Revels in the open air— Grotta DELLA Pulcella —Sepulchral recess—Scene of revelry—The pretty maiden— Grotta del Letto Funebre —An empty bier—Banquet under shelter —Funeral games— Grotta del Triclinio —Striking scenes—Banquets and dances—Peculiarities of the figures—Etruscan modesty—Incongruity of festive scenes to a sepulchre —Religous character of music and dancing among the ancients —Are these scenes symbolical ?—Colours in this tomb, how laid on— Camera del Moeto —Death -bed scene—Tipsy dance and jollity —Archaic character of the figures— Grotta del Tifone —Its peculiarities —Typhons on the pillar —Etruscan inscription —Funeral pro¬ cession on the wall— with his mallet and snakes—Procession of souls and demons —Etruscan inscription —Date of these paintings — inscriptions —The Pompeys of Etruria —Ariosto’s pictures of Etruscan tombs— Grotta degli Scudi —A mourning genius reading an epitaph —A fair Etruscan at dinner —Another pair —Trumpeters —Etruscan inscrip¬ tions —Chamber hung with shields— Grotta del Cardinale —Temple¬ like tomb—Paintings on the walls—Byres’ work—Cisapennine cockneys— Spirited combats—Souls in the charge of good and evil spirits —Scenes in VOL. i. ,b xviii CONTENTS.

the Etruscan Hades —Etruscan Cupid and Psyche —Omncs vna manet nox ■—Grotta dell ’ Orco —Three tombs in one —Arnth Yelchas and his beautiful wife in Elysium —A dusky demon —Another banquet —Ulysses blinding Polyphemus — , Proserpine , and Geryon in Hades —Shades of Teiresias, Memnon, and others— and Peirithoos in charge of the demon Tuchulcha —The sideboard —The Montarozzi—Grotta del Yec- chio —December and May—Other revellers —Grotta de ’ Vasi Dipinti -—Family banquet —Affectionate children —Painted vases on the sideboard •—Dance among the trees—Character of the paintings —Grotta del Moribondo —Death -bed scene, and horse waiting for the soul—Style of art —Grotta delle Iscrizioni —Funeral games—Dice—Boxing—Wrest¬ ling —Horse -races —A bacchic dance—A sacrifice —Primitive character of these paintings —Grotta del Barone —Horse-races—The prize disputed— Brilliancy of the colours—Archaic character of the paintings —Grotta del Mare —Marine monsters—Grotta Francesca —Etruscan ballerine —Spirited figures—Dilapidated paintings —Grotta delle Bighe —A symposium —Dances—Funeral games of the Etruscans —Character and date of these paintings —Grotta del Pulcinella —Men on foot and horse¬ back—Figure in fantastical costume—Grotta del Citaredo —The sexes dance apart —Expressive head of the CitJiareedus—Graeco-Etruscan art— Review of the painted tombs—Their comparative antiquity —Demonology of the Etruscans —Speculations on the paintings —Sepulchral luxury of the ancients —Other painted tombs, now closed or destroyed —Monkish record of them —The tumuli on the Montarozzi —The Mausoleo—Tumular sepulchres—Avvolta’s warrior -tomb—Yast extent of this cemetery —Exca¬ vations , ancient and modern —Tomb of the Mercareccia—Lamentable decay of its sculptures —Singular chimney or 6haft—Mysterious caverns , 301 Appendix. Chaplets in Etruscan tombs — Grotta della Scrofa Neva— Lost tombs delineated by Bvres—Painted tombs recently opened and reclosed ...... 304

CHAPTER XXVI.

CORNETO-.—Tiie Museums. The Municipal Museum —Painted sarcophagus of the Sacerdote—Of the Magnate—Other singular sepulchral monuments—Kvlix of Oltos and Euxitheos—Kylix of Theseus and Ariadne—Disk of the horned Dionysos —Museo Bruschi —Painted vases—Bronzes—Flesh -hooks—Fragments of paintings from the Grotta Bruschi—The Warrior’s tomb—Very archaic contents—Pottery of Tarquinii—Beautiful bronzes—Jewellery—Reliefs in ivory ...... 401

CHAPTER XXVII.

TARQUINII. —The City.

Origin of Tarquinii—Legends of and —Metropolitan claims of Tarquinii—Legends of Demaratusand his son—The Tarquins—History of Tarquinii—Scanty remains on the site—Scenery—The Acropolis and ancient walls—Recent excavations —Tomb on the site of the city—Utter desolation of Tarquinii ...... 417 CONTENTS. XIX

CHAPTER NXVIII.

OEAYISCJS. PACE Graviscm, tlie port of Tarquinii —Its site disputed —Le Saline —Legend of St. Augustine —Ruins on the right bank of the Marta —Discovery of an ancient arch and embankment —A port confessed—Here stood the port of Tar- quinii —Desolation of this coast...... 4310 Appendix . The Via Aurelia from Pyrgi to Cosa...... 431(5

CHAPTER XXIX.

VULCI.

Yulci entirely of modern renown —Montalto —Regisvilla —Ponte Sodo—Ponte della Badia—Magnificent bridge , draped with stalactites —Date of the bridge and aqueduct —Site of the ancient Yulci—Its history almost a blank —The Pelago —The necropolis —Its discovery accidental — Lucien Bonaparte —Tomb of the Sun and Moon—The Campanari painted tomb— The Francois painted tomb—The Bonaparte excavations —Barbarism of Italian excavators —Necropolis of Yulci unlike that of Tarquinii —The Cucumella —Its towers and contents —Analogy to the sepulchre of Alyattes at Sardis — Other tumuli —Warrior tombs —Grotta d’Iside — Egyptian articles in an Etruscan tomb —Specimens of Etruscan female beauty— Bronzes—Painted pottery of Yulci—Beautiful wine-jug . . . . 4357 Appendix . The Campanaripainted tomb at Yulci ...... 4(55

CHAPTER XXX.

CANINO and MUSIGNANO.

Hints to travellers —Canino—Lucien Bonaparte ’s villa at Musignano —Cabinet of vases — Bronzes — Portraits of the Bonaparte family — Interesting sarcophagi ...... 4G7 Appendix . Eyes on the painted vases—Two sarcophagirepresenting nuptial scenes ...... ■ ...... 471

CHAPTER XXXI.

TOSCANELLA .—TTJSCANIA.

Toscanella —Accommodation for the traveller —Campanari brothers —Their garden , and model tomb—Banqueting -hall of the dead —Etruscan sar¬ cophagi explained —Etruscan passion for jewellery —Painted sculpture— Occupants of the model sepulchre —Tomb of the Calcarello —Sarcophagus of the Niobids—Sarcophagi of stone and earthenware —Capital of Paris and Helen —No history of this ancient town —Extant vestiges—Church of S. Pietro —The necropolis of Tuscania —Grotta Regina and its labyrinth —- Columbaria in the cliffs—Campanari ’s excavations —Origin of the Gre¬ gorian Museum—Environs of Toscanella ...... 473 b 2 NX CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXXII.

ISCHIA, FARNESE, and CASTRO. PAGE Etruscan sites—Piansano—Ischia—Italian squalor—Farnese—Castro— Picturesque desolation—Remains of antiquity—Proverbial gloom—Site of Statonia disputed—Yalentano—Lago Mezzano—Lake of Statonia and its floating island ...... 489

CHAPTER XXXIII.

PITIGLIANO and SORANO. Phantom perils—Pitigliano and its “ Baby”—An Etruscan site—Walls, roads, and tombs—Picturesque beauty of the ravines—Popular legends—Sorano —Casa Farfanti—Nox ambrosia—Romantic scenery—Scant antiquities— The mirror of the Marchese Strom ...... 496