USA $14.90 | UK £11 | Europe €12 Magazine Jewels &Luxury vic e nz a oro

212-486-4545

GARDEN COLLECTION

ROBERTOCOIN.COM 212-486-4545

GARDEN COLLECTION

ROBERTOCOIN.COM

7

TABLE OF CONTENTS Issue 134 for Summer 2015

26 ≈ Massimo Izzo

80 ≈ From Fashion to Fine

70 ≈ Faraone Mennella

Aperture 41 Infographics Stories 42 Red Carpet Men About Town 56 Pininfarina 16 The Richmond 26 Angle Elegance and Power, Runway Massimo Izzo with Torinese Grace 18 Watchword: Oversized 32 Me Myself and I Details Paola Strammiello 70 Faraone Mennella 20 Pink My Love 54 Word To The Wise The Stars and On Our Shelf Man Is style Stripes’ Dream 22 King of Prints 76 Roberto Coin On Inspiration and Well Done! The Creative Process Style Report 44 FKA Twigs 24 Brand New 46 DimoreStudio 30 Fascinating Facts 48 Pistoletto Last Word 34 Pure Luxury 50 Stefano Boeri 36 VO+ Files 51 Francesco Vezzoli 144 The Light of Knowledge 38 Top Event 52 Kendall Jenner by Carlotta de Bevilacqua 8

TABLE OF CONTENTS closeupstudios.com Issue 134 for Summer 2015 118 ≈ Hell-O-Tiki Shot by Stefano Campo AnticoShot by Stefano

Fashion & Jewels Trends Celebration V estiamo 64 80 Fashion 108 Versace Watches diamanti So Fresh, So Clean From Fashion to Fine jewelry Celebrating 25 Years

Shot by Stefano Campo Antico 86 Wine Cellars and styled by Anita Sciacca In Vino Virtus Estate & Vintage

98 124 New Faces 112 Siegelson Rocking That 70’s Vibe The Next Generation is Made in Italy The Treasure Hunter

Shot by Stefano Moro Van Wyk 136 Lifestyle Diary and styled by Rebecca Baglini Anatomy of a Red Carpet 132 Vicenzaoro Dubai 118 Four Day to Go Down in History Flagship store 12 The Brian&Barry Building SANBABILA - Milano Hell-O-Tiki. Journey Into Finance Shot by Stefano Campo Antico 94 Marco Bicego TENNIS COLOR collection and styled by Anita Sciacca The Creator of Unique Jewelry 140 US Market Destination USA

Phone +39 0131 955944 - [email protected] • crieri.com closeupstudios.com

V estiamo diamanti

Flagship store 12 The Brian&Barry Building SANBABILA - Milano

TENNIS COLOR collection

Phone +39 0131 955944 - [email protected] • crieri.com 10 vo+ AMERICA · Issue 134 · Summer 2015 CONTRIBUTORS

PREETA AGARWALI Preeta is based in New Delhi, India, where she dedicates the majority of her time to writing about fine jewelry for her blog Bejewelled Finds; magazines like The Jewellery Editor, Solitaire Singapore, Forbes India and more. A trained jewelry designer and a photographer in her spare time, her expertise in the world of fine jewelry helps her in her other role as jewelry consultant specialising in PR, branding and marketing. p. 82

ILARIA DANIELI ‏Federica Frosini She’s a journalist who lives A professional journalist and jewelry and works in Milan. Feature editor for almost 15 years, she is editor for several years of the Director of the digital magazine online and offline Condé Nast Amusingold.com. Respected for her long publications (Style.it, Vogue experience as editor of Vogue Gioiello, Gioiello and Vogue Accessory), nowadays Federica is internationally recognized she is editorial director of l’Orafo Italiano, for the insight with which she identifies a renowned jewelry trade magazine, and trends in contemporary jewelry. works as a consultant for publishing houses and research companies in the p. 126 luxury sector. She writes fashion pieces for Class Editori and Rizzoli. She teaches at Milan’s Marangoni Institute.

p. 88

Francesco porolI He has worked as a freelance illustrator and art director since 2000. During these years he has collaborated with clients Anthony DeMarco such as The New York Times Freelance writer and editor who Magazine, Wired, Il Sole 24 specializes in luxury jewelry and Ore, Mondadori, RCS, Google, watches. He writes for several Adidas, NBA and many others. publications, including Forbes.com He has exhibited in group shows in Vicenza, Milan, and the Financial Times Watches & New York, Washington and London. His works Jewellery special reports. DeMarco’s have been selected by the Society of Illustrators blog, Jewelry News Network, is a NY and SPD. Over and above all this, he is a proud window into the international jewelry father of Riccardo, five and Beatrice, two. and watch industry. p. 142 p. 110 RICHLINE ITALY A Berkshire Hathaway Company Loc. San Zeno, 2/A Arezzo Italy Tel. +39 0575 959536 [email protected] 12 MASTHEAD 12 VO+ AMERICA

Editorial Advertising

Editorial Director Milano Fashion Media Roberto Rossi Gandolfi C. Colombo, 9. 20144 Milan, Italy [email protected] T 0039 02 58153201 [email protected] Publisher Diego Valisi Advertising Enquiries [email protected] Serafina I. [email protected] Veronica Cozzi [email protected] Editor Giulia Peron [email protected] Arianna L.B. Pinton [email protected]

Creative Director International Distribution Didier Falzone bureaubureau.it Export Press Sas 36 rue des Petits Champs, Fashion Editor 5th Floor - 75002 Paris, France Ivan Bontchev T 0033 1 40 29 14 51 www.exportpress.com Graphic Design rossella VALENTI, ANSELMO BIANCONI Publishing Editorial Office rossella bevivino Registered: Tribunale di Vicenza [email protected] No. 492, November 28th, 1984. Printed in Italy. ISSN 1827-2878

Editor in Chief Contributors Roberto Rossi Gandolfi

Contributing Writers VO+ America Magazine is printed by Preeta Agarwal, Rita Airaghi, Diana Barbetta, Rumor Industrie Grafiche S.p.A., Marco Cresci, Ilaria Danieli, Anthony DeMarco, Via dell'Economia 127. Federica Frosini, Matteo Guizzardi, Marco Magalini, 36100 Vicenza, Italy Lucio Mazzi, Katerina Perez, Sonia Sbolzani, T 0039 0444 353535 Fabio Schiavo, Rachael Taylor, Livia Tenuta, Vivian Wu, Donatella Zappieri VO+ America Magazine is edited by Fiera di Vicenza SpA (all rights reserved) Contributing Photographers, Vicenza Fiera, Stylists and Illustrators via Dell'Oreficeria, 16. Rebecca Baglini, Stefano Campo Antico, Giacomo 36100 Vicenza, Italy Giannini, Alberto Lot, Stefano Moro Van Wyk, Francesco Poroli, Anita Sciacca President Matteo Marzotto Contributing Translations Diane Lutkin, Katharine Mitchell, Managing Director Doris Urban Corrado Facco

On the cover: necklace in rose gold, jet and black diamonds from the Victoria collection by POMELLATO. Bracelets in rose gold and ebony from the Oro Classic and Chic & Shine collections by ROBERTO COIN. Photography by Stefano Moro Van Wyck, fashion by Rebecca Baglini. Overall TRUSSARDI

14 Premium contents online

The Cool Kids The 7th Day What’s The Beat Solange Azagury-Partridge, Luxury, like fashion, never Luxury is not just a unique Lorenz Baumer, Victoire stops. It is always on the item of jewelry, an exclusive De Castellane. These three move, in constant evolution, accessory, a highly sought- designers are now at the apex in rapid and unstoppable after object. Luxury is also of the jewelry world. But they expansion. And it is often culture, it is an exhibition too too started as simple “young hard to distinguish the main good to miss, a particularly hopefuls”. This is why VO+ events from those destined beautiful disco, a book regularly scouts the luxury to stay in the background. destined to remain in the and jewelry world in search of For this reason, every week, collective imagination. Luxury the Fulco Di Verdura and Rene the VO+ editorial staff selects is all-round culture, and it Lalique of tomorrow, keeping the most interesting, curious is for this reason that VO+ you informed about the world and stimulating news that has informs you of new cultural of up and coming young involved the jewelry and luxury events every week that you designers. world in the last 168 hours. simply can’t miss.

Tech + Jewelry Orient Express The Runway Informer From SmartWatches to hi- In its incredible vastness, the Paris, Milan, London, New tech bracelets and rings able East has always been a lead- York, Sydney, São Paulo, to send messages, measure ing source of inspirations and Berlin. In the world capitals of bio-rhythms and even connect trends. From Tokyo to Mumbai, fashion and luxury, the favored to the social networks. The from Peking to Seoul, young language of new trends jewelry and technology worlds designers and daring trend- and the latest inclinations are becoming increasingly setters contribute to forging is spoken on the catwalks. more interconnected, compli- the coming “next big things” VO+ keeps you posted on mentary, in relation with each that will monopolize the luxury the “runway” calendar and other. VO+ is a close observer capitals around the planet in the not-to-be-missed events and regularly provides you with the immediate future. VO+ around the world. the very latest in technology keeps you posted on every applied to jewelry. shade of Planet Orient.

VO PLUS Vicenzaoro twitter.com Find More On Our Website Jewels VO_PLUS Magazine www.vo-plus.com APERTURE 15 32 APERTURE forty years as KING ~ His name is the emblem of Italian fashion: Giorgio Armani celebrates the fortieth anniversary of the company that has made him famous all over the world. A career celebrated with a self-tribute on the web: armani.com/atribute is a freshly-launched site that will pay homage to themes, people and the initiatives linked to Re Giorgio’s stylistic vision. 16 APERTURE

16 THE EDIT Men About Town

Restaurant and raw bar, The Richmond has just opened its doors in Hackney, the area that is changing its look before our very eyes and gradually stealing the limelight from Dalston – which was the creative epicentre of the new London up until a short while ago. Its warm and welcoming atmosphere, inspired by American retro, is perfect for a business meeting or an after dinner encounter. The owner is the Australian chef Brett Redman, already famous in the English capital for having founded The Pavillion in Victoria Park. The chef’s passion for oysters is forms the basis of the menu, where they are featured in a vast and quality selection which would satisfy any enthusiast: Madon Kumamotos from Essex, Menai Rocks from Wales and Portland Pearls from Cornwall. The Richmond’s Yuzu cocktail is a must: a revamped Bloody Mary served with oysters.

Vioro Dubai 2015.indd 1 30/03/15 17:13 Vioro Dubai 2015.indd 1 30/03/15 17:13 APERTURE

18 THE EDIT Runway

Jewelry is a great way to accentuate a look adding your own personal touch.

The latest fashion trends seen on the catwalk are oversized jewels, an over-the-top touch for getting noticed with style and avoiding mass standardization. Among the many offerings is the necklace by Lanvin, a veritable golden sculpture framing a small monkey, chooses a composition of large stones with a gold and Tom Ford LUXURY - JCK LAS VEGAS pearl effect,Donna Karan embraces the ‘60s with disproportionate May 26 - June 1 geometric bracelets while Marni offers a jeweled necklace Elite Enclave Luxee4 with a tribal stone effect in carved wood.

© Getty Images [email protected] | www.hulchibelluni.com | +32 9 280 06 66 © Getty Images [email protected] |www.hulchibelluni.com |+329280 0666 LUXURY -JCK LAS VEGAS Elite Enclave Luxee4 Elite Enclave May 26-June1 APERTURE

20 THE EDIT Details

Bang & Olufsen is now a legendary name in the production of cutting edge speakers, not only from the technical point of view, but also for their design. The company’s latest proposal is called The Love Affair Collection, a collection of six products based in shades of pink gold designed for music lovers and created to celebrate the brand’s 90th anniversary. Bang & Olufsen produces and processes the aluminum directly in its own factories, which allows the company to rapidly respond to market demand and to fulfill its customers’ wishes. Pink gold, which is experiencing a comeback in the jewelry sector, has a fundamental meaning; while white gold represents friendship and yellow gold represents faithfulness, pink gold symbolizes love, the final inspiration of this collection. GLI glioridivenezia.it ORI DI VENEZIA MURANO VENEZIA

JCK_LAS VEGAS fair May 29 / 1 June 2015 BOOTH_S11-790 APERTURE

22 THE EDIT On Our Shelf

Gimmo Etro founded the eponymous company in 1968, bringing to fashion his passion for art, craftsmanship and collecting. Founded as a manufacturer of fabrics for prêt-à-porter and haute couture, it stands out for its intransigence in the choice of the finest materials, the ability to invent new chromatic alliances and for its passion for the decorative style. Printing and ornamental motifs are the pivot point of its research on how the paisley pattern, taken from ancient Kashmir fabrics, which since the first collection, has become a sort of signature of the Milanese Maison. In the book, the images and text are combined according to an analog criterion, which enters Etro fashion through ‘open doors’ each looking out to a different source of inspiration: color, travel, nature, art, pastime, paisley and traditional tailoring. ‘etro’. curated by renata molho. 375 pp. published by rizzoli

24 APERTURE BRAND NEW

Georg Jensen

The typical Nordic minimalism of Georg Jensen, re-interpreted in a modern key, is the link between the Danish company’s four new lines of jewelry for women. Aria, where horizontal or vertical silver bars, the main material used for the earrings and necklaces, represents an evolution in a minimal key of the jewelry seen on the catwalks. Moonlight Grapes is entirely in silver and takes inspiration from bunches of grapes, the brand’s symbol since 1920. The Neva Collection plays with the shape of pearls (asymmetric and of various sizes), which, combined with gold, embellish necklaces and rings. Lastly, the essentiality of Viviana Dew Drop: a rigid silver necklace with a removable pendant set with drops of silver.

Pretty in Pink There’s no denying that pastels are this season’s trend. Brumani, always sensitive to the latest trends, offers its singular interpretation with the Panache Collection which explores all the different shades of pink. This Brazilian brand, much sought-after by the stars - Jennifer Lopez, Penelope Cruz, Selena Gomez and Maria Sharapova to name just a few, has surprised the Vintage market with a collection which juxtaposes diamonds, morganite and Twist ! This collection from the new jewelry line by Antonini, is based on shades of black and white with gold in all its essentiality as the main player and smoky quartz with multi-coloured is simply called Black & White. White gold is the absolute star of the collection, left in its sapphires to create an enchanting, natural color without rhodium plating. The result twinkling effect when the pieces is jewelry in soft colors, with shades donated by catch the light. Brumani jewelry the sparkle of the diamonds. Rings, pendants and successfully marries classic and earrings are tapered with an almost engineered contemporary to create jewelry interlacement of circular shapes, a circle of metal to contrast with a pavé of black or white diamonds which is posititvely bursting with that are reminiscent of patterns from the 1970s, femininity and unusual colour giving a vintage twist in a highly modern and combinations. sophisticated collection. BRAND NEW APERTURE 25

Give in to At the Bottom temptation of the Deep Blue Sea Black ceramic and rose gold The new collection from Palmiero Jew- elry Design is inspired by the mysterious for a more wearable, accessible, world beneath the wave. This is one of the contemporary Eden: and so Damiani most refined brands on the international revisits and relaunches the style of one of its jewelry scene and is a testament to premium iconic collections. The snake-shaped bracelet quality, creativity and authentic Italian-made called Eden, is made up of a collection of rings, excellence. Palmiero creations have always celebrated nature and given in to the influ- bracelets and earrings. The design is modern and ence of art and culture, to create an instantly underlines the contrast in materials, ceramic and recognisable style. This new limited-edi- gold, it also adds energy to the spiral of pavé diamonds tion collection is not which complements the colours of afraid to push the the precious metal - white, pink and envelope with soft shapes and shades burnished gold. The famous serpent from the abyss representing temptation has never – colourless dia- daunted Damiani, in fact, it has always monds, blue, pur- symbolised success and progress for ple and pink sap- the company. phires, green and blue tourmaline – which echo the movement of underwa- ter life.

Tropical Luxury When luxury and elegance combine with excellence in craftsmanship and precious materials comes fine jewelry of which the brand Nouvelle Bague is a master. Founded in Florence, it is world famous for its jewelry decorated in gold, enamel and diamonds such as the new collection Kenya with its vibrant green perfectly combined with black, pink gold and diamonds.

Primitive Elegance. Fifty exclusive pieces that, with their ‘ancestrally precious’ choice of materials, celebrate the mythical and legendary atmospheres of the TV series Game of Thrones.

n order to iconically incarnate values used, but also for the extremely rare mate- like honor, courage and loyalty, the very rials, like dinosaur bone and woolly mam- Icornerstones of the HBO’s fantasy saga, moth fossils. The result is creations that the American luxury brand William Hen- can cost up to $10,000 and in which the in- ry has just revealed a new line of jewelry disputable value of the material goes hand with a epic flavor. Bracelets, necklaces and in hand with a significant cultural message pendants stand out, not only due to the ex- that takes us back to our primitive and he- traordinary metal-processing techniques roic past · MC 26 APERTURE BRAND NEW

Happy Birthday Elvis! The Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 celebrates the birth of the King of Rock’n’Roll with a futuristic design and an eighty-hour power reserve; this ultra-modern look, outlined by the unusual shield-shaped case, accompanied the King in the film Blue Hawaii in 1961. The 2015 model is a reinterpretation of what is commonly referred to as the ‘Elvis’ watch’; it has overcome great technical and material challenges and has triumphantly entered a new era of design. As always, this particular watch is tuned into the future, the automatic model is powered by the H-10 Hamilton movement and boasts a power reserve of eighty hours.

Shiny happy diamonds Dancing, playful and joyous, these are Happy Diamonds, free diamonds with no mounting. The inspiration came during a walk in the Black Forest, observing how the rays of the sun played on the drops of water in a waterfall. Now they are one of Chopard’s classics, renewed year after year. The new collection, in white or pink 18-carat gold, includes a pendant, a ring and a The pair of earrings. Each item exhibits nineteen diamonds and one mobile iconic diamond, involving a remarkable G jewelry-making approach. Gucci’s famous running shapes. The Running G logo, based on the ‘GG’ collection strives to celebrate initials of the company’s the logo by offering a founder Guccio Gucci, is complete assortment of well-known within the jewelry, including a necklace, universe of the brand. Over bracelet, drop earrings and the years the Running G two versions of rings: warm- has been interpreted and toned 18-carat yellow gold presented again and again or cool white gold enriched and undergone innumerable with diamonds. The changes, it has appeared in collection is so delicate that the shape of a circle, back- all the pieces can be worn to-back, upside-down and together without appearing has even assumed abstract excessive. DIGO X VIORO AMERICA 2015_Layout 1 30/04/15 17:51 Pagina 1

Déco Collection COUTURE WYNN / LAS VEGAS / LAFITE BALLROOM / BOOTH 109

www.digovalenza.com 28 APERTURE Angle Massimo Izzo

The Sicilian designer has won over the goldsmith world, standing out with his jewelry sculptures inspired by Mediterranean culture.

Ortygia is the mythical place where the God Alpheus – transformed because our work reflects who we are. The into a river for love – rejoins the waters seahorse, which recurs in my creations, of his beloved nymph is isolated and in order to is considered a symbol of good luck and Arethusa, who had been publicize my work, I must turned into a fresh wa- fortune and is a creature that only lives in ter spring by Artemis. migrate • clean water, thus it also represents purity and loyalty •

fulco di verdura In 50 years from now I’d like to be like him: a Sicilian who was inspired by the sea and nature with color combinations that infuse life and joy; few can convey emotions through their work yet Fulco di Verdura is a master at this and I’d like is method of working to be too. In the early 1900s Fulco di Ver- incorporates techniques dura had the courage to migrate and to go h and goldsmith traditions into the world to lost in the mists of time. Corals, pre- make his work The coral of Sciacca cious stones, gold and natural materials known, in so do- Coral is a single organism whose are skillfully molded giving light to en- ing he met Coco preciousness and rarity are known by few. chanting dream-like pieces. Departing Chanel who I have several examples of this coral which, from his land, Sicily, he changed his life in the Sicilian tradi- Above, a one-of- has traveled the world making his work tion, is given to daugh- a-kind coffee cup adorned with a with the desire to make famous • ters when they marry; yellow 18kt gold his work known for its above the dowry trunk sea-life motif of seahorse and passion and humility: “I Island a coral braid was laid as algae, a starfish don’t create jewelry, the of Ortigia a symbol and wish for engraved in natural coral, and world is already full of It is the prosperity. I don’t cre- white diamonds. it, I transmit emotions headquarters ate jewelry, the world is through precious ma- of my business, already full of it, I trans- terials, you buy my jewelry if you feel the the place where mit emotions through emotion it communicates, not because I work and live. A precious materials, you need it.” beautiful island you buy my jewelry if Fulco’s memoirs bear a title that steeped in Greek art surround- you feel the emotion it The Seahorse seems to sum up ed by the Ionian Sea which I communicates, not be- the spirit of his Through my jewelry I want to give early life: ‘The consider the epicenter of my cause you need it • [MC] the opportunity to those who are far from Happy Summer creative process. I have many Days - A Sicilian the sea to keep a piece of it with them. Childhood’. memories of this place above all My life is based on solid principles not on as a child fishing polyps among money, in the seahorse I see the upbring- the rocks. I think just by looking at my ing I received which has set out my life creations it is possible to understand that they are the result of my life experi- ences. Being born here is a fortune and at the same time a misfortune because it www.stefaniargento.com Stefani Argento, Via della Oreficeria, 40, 36100 Vicenza (Italy) - +39 0444 288136 - [email protected] 30 APERTURE fascinating facts

Viva Missoni The Eternal The colours of fashion Style of Yves ×

The Bowes Museum and the Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent Foundation are collaborating in the outfitting of Yves Saint Laurent: Style is Eternal, the UK’s very first exhibition dedicated to the French designer. The intention is to present a global vision of his work highlighting the enormous influence that he had on fashion and his personal way of understanding women’s wear: by using codes linked to men’s clothing, the designer led women towards social responsibility, while still maintaining their femininity. > The Bowes Museum, London. > 11 July - 25 October 2015

The diva becomes designer An exhibition devoted to Ottavio and Rosita Missoni is A new collaboration currently on in 1953 at MA*GA Art Museum of Gallarate has been created in the fashion world featuring (Milan), the city where the couple decided to base their two highly striking first artisan workshop. The exhibition is organised by names: Beyoncé and Giuseppe Zanotti. It is means of recordings which describe the pure genius a small step from singer of Missoni, composed of colour, material and shape, to fashion designer. A lot of pop stars have and highlights the link between creativity and art. This been involved in link is manifested in those distinctive juxtapositions of special projects in the past, like Rihanna with Fendi or Rita Ora with Adidas. Beyoncé colour which have always characterised creations by herself collaborated with H&M and Topshop. And it is her very the late designer, Ottavio Missoni. passion for clothes and shoes that has caused her destiny to cross roads with the Italian fashion house, Zanotti. Beyoncé will not be creating an entire collection, but one unique and not-to-be- missed pair of shoes, the aim being to celebrate and enhance the Missoni, Art, Colour. Curated by Luciano Caramel and Emma Zanell. singer’s style and the beauty of the brand’s creations. Giuseppe Until November 8th, 2015. museomaga.it Zanotti has disclosed that the shoes will have maxi platforms Above, 1984: Ottavio e Rosita Missoni shot by Giuseppe Pino and a vertiginously high stiletto heel. They will be sexy, elegant

and super feminine. © Getty Images fascinating facts APERTURE 31

The new Wizard

of the cinema − the new hit girl − Lily Rose × The daughter of Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis, appeared with her mother at Chanel’s Métiers d’Art show in New York, turning all the spotlights Fancy Pink onto herself and underlining Diamond her fashionista personality. At 14 years old, she seems to want to follow in her mother’s footsteps, who debuted in the music world at the tender age of 11. Lily-Rose, however, is coming into the world of fame through another door: fashion. The Chanel total-look worn at the event featured all the season’s trends: a high-waist longuette skirt, a 5.29 carats of pure luxury – a Fancy Pink There are no doubts, the decided to become the first top crop which re-launches diamond went under the English actor, Eddie Redmayne, transgender in history going the 90s fashion, leaving the hammer at Christie’s on is the man of the moment after under the name of Lili Elbe. stomach slightly bare, an April 14 in New York having triumphed at the 2015 The film is being directed by oversize choker and a two- at the Magnificent Jewels auction for a staggering Oscars as the Best Actor for Tom Hooper, who had already colour neckline. 5.8 million dollars. This his interpretation of a young worked with Redmayne in Les extraordinary stone Stephen Hawking, the famous Misérables. Recent news would even exceeded the physicist, astrophysicist and have it that he has been chosen estimated price set by the cosmologist who suffers from to play Newt Scamander, the auctioneers. progressive amyotrophic ‘Magizoologist’ in “Fantastic lateral sclerosis, in the film Beasts and Where to Find Putilov Pearl The Theory of Everything. Them”, a Harry Potter spin-off Brooch And now the actor is once taken from the homonymous again being talked about book by J.K. Rawling. The film, thanks to his coming roles. part of a trilogy, will come out He is currently working on in the cinema in 2016. The Danish Girl, which sees the Oscar-winning actor in the role of Einar Wegener, the man who

series of short films directed by the A American film director Autumn de Wilde starring the Prada Gallerie bag; The The largest natural near- Postman Dreams is Prada’s latest project, it round seawater pearl was utilises film as a medium for exploring common sold on December 8 at a obsessions in a humorous way. Viewers are Rago Arts auction in the invited to discover the five short US for 813.750 dollars. films as though they were part Set in the Putilov Brooch, of one series and watch them in which was once probably any order they like. What with part of the Russian crown postmen and LA gangs, the series jewels, this spectacular creates a vibe of unpredictability pearl is surrounded by and guarantees a feeling of conti 28 carats of mine-cut diamonds. nuity between the stories which-

© Getty Images surprises viewers. 32 APERTURE ME, MYSELF AND my jewels Paola Strammiello

Challenging the golden rules of gold. The Italian designer explains her personal point of view regarding the jewelry world

Which characteristics should a piece of jewelry have in order to catch your attention? Jewelry is meant to ex- press and provoke joy, and it is precisely this ability to commu- nicate positive messages that I find intriguing. Jewelry which demands my attention often has a playful, humorous element, a de- tail which catches your eye, which deserves to be observed because it has been studied.

Do you remember the first piece of jewelry you fell in love with and why? The first piece of jewelry I fell in love with was a gimmick ring, a ring composed of several rings which, when positioned in a certain way, revealed a large observer both visually as well as live without each other? luted with useless objects. What engraved motif which was pre- conceptually, seeing as the pre- Accessories, jewelry and really affects the soul is the mes- viously indecipherable. Even to- cious part is enclosed within the clothes are tools which help us sage it communicates. Because day, the jewelry I wear, design ring, rather than taking centre propagate our personality and jewelry is in close contact with and love all have this sensorial stage on the outside according the poetry inside each and every our bodies it has strong powers element to them, the desire to to the canons of conventional one of us. They express who we of communication, it is amplified playfully overturn jewelry. are! All types of fashions, from by our movements, it can commu- the “golden rules” clothing to design, the same as nicate with observers via sound of jewelry. In my In your artistic trends, give off useful and touch and invite interaction Magic Mushroom view, can art, jew- signals sociologists use to study and contemplation. ring, top winner at elry and fashion social change and the spirit of a the HRD awards in particular age. Therefore these Is there a piece you own 2013, an interna- environments are closely linked or have created you consider as tional diamond jew- and co-exist in harmony. being a sort of talisman? elry competition, Jewelry designer My Hippy Diamond ring is Paola Strammiello a diamond is con- divides her time In a piece of jewelry, without a doubt my talisman. It has cealed inside the between Milan and which is more important, the a 1-carat diamond concealed inside London. She works ring and can only as a consultant for shape, the material it is made it and a waterfall of chains covers be seen by means high-jewelry brands out of or the message it com- and reveals it, it’s my anti-stress while pursuing her of a complicated personal aim of municates? device, when it changes its “hair- system of mirrors, challenging the re- The world is full of objects, style” it puts me in a good mood. strictions posed by parabolas and reflections. This materials and design. She loves shapes and materials. I would If I’m feeling a bit low... I stroke my trick piques the interest of the stimulating all the five senses with even go so far as to say it is pol- skin with its mane! • [MC] jewelry designed to be worn and ex- perienced.

34 APERTURE pure luxury

kors, finland PRECIOUS VODKA

Created by Grand Duke Paul Al- exandrovich for his father, the last Tsar of all the Russias, Nicolas II Romanov, who also gave it to other sovereigns, it is considered to be the perfect vodka. Rare and highly sought-after, it has been a dream of every connoisseur because the recipe was supposed to have been lost. Until it was found in Kors, a factory in Fin- land, together with a small quantity of the rare distillate. Every bottle is made by hand, individually num- bered and specifically dedicated to each individual customer. The price: between $12,500.00 - $24,500.00

×

venice, italy made to measure

Carbon fiber used in the construction of aerospace vehicles, 18-carat gold, wild crocodile skin from Zimbabwe and built by hand. This is the new Sarto, designed by Karim Kalaf and florence, italy Enrico Sarto, with only 25 specimens the royal pen made in the Venetian workshop, An- tonio Sarto. Light and with aggressive Gold, silver, rhodium and craftsmanship: this is the Tibaldi San yet fascinating lines, the Sarto18k is Lodovico, 50-specimen limited edition fountain pen, produced made to order and to the customer’s by hand with a burin-engraved barrel and cap, treated with a measurements. And, as if that were not special ceramic enamel technique. The nib, in 18k solid gold, enough, to make it even more exclu- as are all the incisions, is decorated with an eagle in two-color sive, a solid gold medallion with the finishing, while the tip is in iridium, an extremely hard and solid owner’s initials is applied to the top metal, guaranteed to be long-lasting, is soldered to the barrel and tube of the frame. Price $27k honed according to the required slant of writing. Price on request. pure luxury 35

− home − Art In The Bathroom ferretti custom Portugal-based Maison Valentina produces The Floating Dream line navetta 37 limited numbers of custom-made baths with unusual shapes. The latest creation is called Koi, the Japanese carp, in fact the structure is clearly inspired by the tranquility of water gardens from the Land of the Rising Sun. Brass has been hammered by hand using a particular technique to give it a shiny finish, this is balanced by the open, empty effect of the base, which creates an overall feeling of lightness. All this contrasts harmoniously with the aged iron which has undergone an artisanal process. Prices available on request.

− gourmet − White Gold

he Ferretti Custom Line (Videoworks One Touch Infotainment Navetta 37 is a 37.04 meter System), which replaces all the remote T long (121.6 ft.) and 8 meter controls of the various devices, and wide (26.3 ft.) yacht that offers the can be extended to the domotics in patented Dual Mode Transom (DMT) the rooms. Price on request. system and, among other things, an Strottarga Bianco is the first caviar to be internal panoramic lounge perched produced from albino sturgeon roe. Mixed with over the sea and another internal 22-carat gold it is reported to have a beneficial lounge illuminated by large windows effect on the human immune system. This in the hull. The launch cradle for the singular delicacy is produced on a fish farm tender can be covered by a foldaway in Austria run by Walter Gruell and his son floor and the entire craft can be Patrick who guarantee that the high quality and customized in terms of decor. The purity of the local river water which flows down standard management system is VOTIS directly from the surrounding mountains is the optimum habitat for sturgeon. The company sells via individual orders and the caviar costs around £200 thousand a kilo.

negrar, verona, italy producing mastery. This passion has TOWARDS TRADITION reached dizzying heights. It is difficult to avoid using the superlative when The tradition created by one of the talking about it. For example, the last remaining grand masters of wine Amarone della Valpolicella, Riserva from the Veneto region of Italy, Gi- Centenario selezione speciale 1990, useppe Quintarelli, continues without is an absolute must and proves the interruption. His heirs have succeeded point that every bottle from this win- in assimilating his legacy while per- ery, prices start at $800 a bottle, is the fectly imbuing each product with very best solution for those who are all the love, heart and soul of wine- in pursuit of perfection. 36 APERTURE VO+ FILES New synergies between fashion, luxury and celebrities

− las vegas − The Celebrities Attack

Sarah J. Parker + Zappos Couture stockholm The recent The actress and fashion that is seeing shoe aficionado has unveiled her celebrities joining forces line of SJP bridal with fashion houses to shoes, created in create exclusive capsule collaboration with collections has been re- the digital platform, named Celebrity Design. Zappos Couture. Among these actresses is the actress and − genève − philanthropist Olivia Wilde, who has teamed up with the Swedish giant H&M, thus becoming both the face and mind of Conscious, Marion Cotillard the new line based on + Chopard style and sustainability. The French Oscar- winner has created a collection of jewelry for Chopard. It is a “green” line made Precious Collaborations with colored stones The world of jewelry is also no stranger to capsule collections: following ethical Chanel debuts on Net-A-Porter by creating the Coco Crush procedures. line (1), designer Shaun Lane has designed a jewelry line (2) for Alexander McQueen’s London retrospective while, for Expo − tokyo − Milan 2015, Rosato Gioielli has launched a limited edition linked to pasta and Mattioli Gioielli has re-interpreted Foody, the exhibition mascot, with the Arcimboldo Estate ring (3).

1.

Carine Roitfeld new york ARTISTIC LINGERIE TheTsk-Tsk + Uniqlo 3. brand is presenting its first collection of The fashion icon ladies’ underwear inspired by the artist has announced John Kacere and the obsession of 1960s and her collaboration ‘70s magazines. It was this obsession that with Uniqlo. The line inspired by her 2. provided the idea for a special capsule in collaboration with Toiletpaper, the magazine unmistakable style created and manufactured by artists will be on sale as of Maurizio Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari. next November.

38 APAPERTUREERTURE top event

asmin Le Bon Amber Le Bon, Christopher Kane and Y

Solange Azagury -Partridge

Erin O’Connor

Indiana

Jade Parfitt

Phoebe Collings-James

Natalie Massenet Reese Witherspoon

AND Jack Pierson

Rose Ferguson ussy Tiphanie de L

Christopher Kane Opens His London Flagship Store

London. The Scottish designer becomes a big shot in the fashion world, Christopher Kane has proved himself well in less than ten years in the uptown segment of British luxury. Now also literally: last Feb- ruary 23, the designer opened his first London flagship store, spread over 380 square meters on two levels in the stylish and coveted Mount Street. Acquired two years ago by the Kering group, the brand is among the favorites of the artistic and creative jet-set on both sides of the Atlantic. And the flashing cameras captured several at the opening: from supermodel Yasmin Le Bon and Jasmine Guinness to top designer Solange Azagury-Partridge and Martha Ward to fashion tycoon Natalie

Massenet, founder of the fashion portal Net-a-Porter • © Getty Images top event APERTURE 39

Tiffany & Co. Celebrates 2015 Blue Book Collection

New York. Within the eco-chic atmosphere of the ABC Kitchen restaurant, New York temple of the farm-to-table movement run by star chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, on 15 April Tiffany & Co. organised a much-anticipated party for the presentation of its new Blue Book Collection 2015. The pleasantly relaxed mood of the evening was in sharp contrast with the luxurious jewelry on display as well as the sta- tus of the stars in attendance: Reese Witherspoon, Olivia Wilde, Amber Heard, Aymeline Valade, Misty Copeland, Edie Campbell and Yasmine Le Bon to name just a few. Accompanied by generous cocktails and excellent food, the celebrities were given the chance to learn the secrets of the new haute de gamme line by Tiffany, created by the design director Francesca Amfitheatrof. “Art of the Sea”, celebrates the beauty and allure of the sea •

Frédéric Cumenal, Tiffany CEO, with Reese Witherspoon, Olivia Wilde, Amber Heard and Francesca Amfitheatrof, Tiffany design director

Francesca Reese Witherspoon , Amfitheatrof AND Jack Pierson and Angelica

Cheung

AMBER HEARD

Yasmin Le Bon © Getty Images

A ymeline Valade 40 APERTURE top event

Christoph Waltz (L) and TFF co-found- er Robert De Niro

Aymeline Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images IWC Photo by for Valade

ork Princess Eugenie of Y Elyse Taylor

his Highness Prince Fahad Al Saud

DAKOTA FANNING

C hristine Lahti

For the Love of Cinema IWC Schaffhausen and the Tribeca Film Festival

New York. A great evening in the name of culture, art and style. On 16th April last, the third annual gala dinner “For the Love of Cinema” took place during the Tribeca Film Festival, organized by the Swiss watch company IWC Schaffhausen to award and financially support emerging talents at the art week. His Highness Prince Fahad Al Saud, Jennifer Morrison, Dakota Fanning, Robert De Niro, Princess Eugenia of York: were just some of the 250 society personalities attending the event who enjoyed stage performances by multi-awarded actor, Christoph Waltz, the comedian Joel McHale and singer Sarah McLachlan. The winner of the much-coveted IWC Filmmaker Award was director Deb Shoval with her touching and intense short film AWOL. •

Right: To honor the festival and support its nonprofit affiliate, Tribeca Film Institute (TFI),

IWC auctioned a unique timepiece: the Portofino Monopusher Edition “Tribeca Film Festival 2015” Unique Piece. © Getty Images INFOGRAPHICS APERTURE 41

Freedom is to do what you like For François-Henri Pinault, luxury is the freedom to do what he believes in. A true fighter who has brought prestigious luxury brands to the company founded by his father, also reveals a hi-tech soul.

607,5 400 15 $ million paid to purchase 22 $ million paid to $ billion: the personal Volcom, a Californian $ billion: the value of the purchase Brioni, an net worth of the Pinault company specialising in PPR group which in 2013 Italian luxury men’s family action sports became Kering

Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images IWC Photo by for tailoring brand

the4 number of children 200,000 1200 fathered by François- 62.000 Henri Pinault, two with $ for an imperial bottle the number of direct first wife, Dorothée of Château Latour, a 563 $ spent in one year on operated stores in the Lepère, one with Linda wine produced on the $ million: the net profit clothing by François luxury division and Evangelista and one with wine estate belonging to of the Kering group Henri Pinault 20,122 employees actress Salma Hayek. Pinault in 2014

A decisive man, François-Henri Pinault, 52, president and CEO of the of the auction house Christie’s, the theater Marigny, the Château Latour French giant owner of brands such as Gucci, Stella McCartney, Alex- estate, the news magazine Le Point and the soccer team Stade Rennais. ander McQueen, Yves Saint Laurent, Pomellato, Ulysse Nardin, Dodo, A commitment which goes along side the other interests of the brand: Boucheron, Girard-Perregaux, to name just a few. The group, founded Sport & Life Style with Puma, Volcom, Electric, Cobra and Treton. And in 1963 as PPR became Kering in 2013 after François-Henri embarked in technology: financing The Fancy, an e-commerce platform and form- on a long series of acquisitions, including Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, ing a new company to manage online mono-brand stores of various Broni and Sergio Rossi. A revolution which nobody expected so quickly, brands. The objective: to create a turnover of over $1,5 billion by 2020.

© Getty Images began in 2005 when Pinault Jr. left the family holding Artemis - owner Words Fabio Schiavo 42 APERTUREAPERTURE red carpet

Wonderful FIFTY Somethings

London. In the glittering atmosphere of Royal Opera House, the BAFTA awards, the British equivalent of the Oscars, took place last February. Dominating the red carpet was minimal and sophisticated elegance, played out in black or white; from the Giam- battista Valli gown worn by Keira Kneightley to the silk column dress designed by Alber Elbaz at Lavin for Amy Adams. However, shining on stage giving a lesson on unparal- leled style, class and regality were a hand- ful of divas no longer adolescent- above all Julianne Moore, Kristin Scott-Thomas and our very own Monica Bellucci - who demon- strated that real glamor has no age • [MG]

From left

Keira Knightley Chanel

Patricia Arquette Annoushka Felicity Jones Van Cleef & Arpels Rosamund Pike / Bulgari

red carpet 43

From left

Alice Eve on ond Yoko L Amy Adams Cartier

Rosamund Pike Bulgari

Dianna Agron un Leane Sha Laura Haddock De Beers

From left

Julianne Moore Chopard

Monica Bellucci Boucheron

Gugu Mbatha-Rawo Fernand Jorge 44 44 APERTURE

.Txt Marco Cresci FKA .Jpg Dominic Sheldon Well Done! TWIGS In the alternate universe that is FKA Twigs’ imagination, everything is golden and dimension is just an illusion.

KA Twigs is not afraid of revealing her body nor of having a rather disturb- ing appearance, in fact, Fthe strong point which immediately made her stand out from the rest of the pop world, was putting herself forward, not only as a singer, even though she has remarkable talent, but also as a performer. Born in Gloucestershire, England in 1988, Tahliah Debrett Barnett – her real name – with Jamaican origins on the part of her father, is a dancer, cho- reographer, singer and director. At the age of 17, she moved to London to follow her passion for dance and was a backup dancer in the videos of various international pop stars, like Kylie Minogue, Ed Sheeran and Jessie J. Essential like the title of her first album “LP1”, her music is soul down to the bone and is structured on hypnotic digital patterns, each sound, each noise is accompanied in her live performances by a particu- lar studied gesture or a modern dance step, bound by a charisma that seduces the spectator and transports him into her dreamlike world. Her alien beauty, sculptured hairstyles and minimal look made up of an unusual mixture of nude, technical materials and jewelry, have dictated trends and allowed her to conquer magazine covers like Dazed, i-D and V. She has also recently been in the news headlines due to her en- gagement to actor Robert Pattinson. THE PERMANENT OBSERVATORY SPECIALIZED IN JEWELLERY, WATCHES AND FASHION ACCESSORIES www.trendvisionforecasting.com 29 MAY - 1 JUNE ITALIAN PAVILION / JCK SHOW, LAS VEGAS

trendbook

2016+

AS SEEN ON TRENDBOOK 2016+ 46 APERTURE 46

.Txt Marco Cresci .Jpg Stefano Galuzzi

dimorestudio Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran take advantage of their own personal experience and expertise in design, art and fashion to found DIMORESTUDIO in 2003. 47

APERTURE

Well Done!

ince 2003, their fame has grown and now their name is one of the most important in the world of interior design and fur- nishings. Their customers include Hermés, Aesop, Maison Kitsuné, Fendi, Bottega Veneta and the Grand Hotel Et De Milan. Every project is devised and developed in a personal Sand recognizable manner where historical icons of design intermingle with retrieved items and made-to-measure objects to create a precise at- mosphere from this unusual melting pot. What Dimore Studio stages is an authentic visual, emotional and timeless experience able to re-awak- en unique sensations. A study of the details is fundamental and matched to a language that is not afraid to dare, made up of emotional alchemies, mistakes, salvages, inventions, prints, lights, lacquering and oxidising to generate fascinating and suggestive atmospheres. Dimore Studio creates uncensored aesthetics where every purposely selected element contains energy and expressive citizenship because it plays a leading role in the entirety. This year, Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran celebrated their tenth year of attendance at Salone del Mobile furniture show in Milan. 48

APERTURE 48 michelangelo

.Txt Marco Magalini .Jpg J.E.S. Well Done! pistoletto From 5th June to 27th September, Gallipoli Castle will be hosting the Italian painter and sculptor’s exhibition, one of the liveliest and most prolific international artists.

e made his pictorial debut Pistoletto in Biella, a place where art, edu- Achievement. An all-round artist, he has also with an in-depth study of the cation, industry and society interact. He is written a quantity of books. In the charming self-portrait. An exponent of considered as one of the greatest exponents castle in Gallipoli, near Lecce, the exhibition pop art, promoter and pro- of Arte Povera, a movement that refuses will include three large site-specific installa- tagonist of the Arte Povera traditional techniques and support in favor tions intended to symbolically stimulate the Hmovement, author in the 1960s and ‘70s of of ‘poor’ materials like soil, wood, iron and relational space between people and history, Mirror Paintings and Minus Objects, in 1998 industrial waste. In 2003 he won the Venice thus reconnecting the past to the present. he founded the Cittadellarte-Fondazione Biennial’s Golden Lion Award for Lifelong Marco Magalini VICENZA SEPTEMBER 05-09, 2015 TWITTER.COM/XVICENZAORO FACEBOOK.COM/VICENZAORO

Fall Winter Season INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW

VICENZAORO.COM 50

francesco vezzoli Excessive, Baroque, pop, aware of detail, an expert in the history of art, film and literature: this is Francesco Vezzoli, the internationally- acclaimed artist.

APERTURE ogether with Maurizio 50 Cattelan, Brescia-based Francesco Vezzoli is the most sought-after Italian .Txt Marco Magalini Well Done! artist within the contem- Tporary art world. His work has been displayed in the Guggenheim as well as the Biennale, while Trilogy is the name of the series which has involved three stefano boeri international museums: the Maxxi in The Italian architect is one of the most Rome, the Moma Ps1 in New York and the Moca in Los Angeles. A personal highly considered internationally. His studio encyclopedia spread over three cities concerning issues which have always won the International Highrise Award characterised his work: art, religion and glamour. Vezzoli explores the pow- in 2014 with Bosco Verticale. er of the contemporary media culture, the ambiguity and instability which constitute truth. His work includes fake commercials and satirical film trailers orn in Milan in 1956, son of architect and designer Cini Boeri and neurologist Re- of films which will never be made, such nato Boeri. He graduated in architecture at the Politecnico of Milan - where he as the remake of Caligula by Gore Vid- B now teaches urban design – his career embraces the design world in its entirety, al (2005); set in an ultra-kitsch Holly- in fact from 2004 to 2007 he was also director of the magazine Domus and later went on wood villa and starring top-ranking ac- to lead the journal Abitare. Research and design in international architecture and urban tors such as Milla Jovovich, Benicio Del planning are the focus of his work, often oriented to the enhancement or restoration Toro, Barbara Bouchet and Gore Vidal of buildings and urban areas. Among his most innovative projects stand the redevelop- with costumes designed by Donatella ment of the port areas of Genoa, Thessaloniki, Naples, Marseille and Trieste. Deserving Versace. Vezzoli uses various modes a special mention is the project Bosco Verticale (vertical forest) - two highrises of 80 of expression, including the unusual and 100 meters built in the new Isola district of Milan - whose facades accommodate a use of crochet to create embroidered floristic biodiversity accounting for 11 thousand different types. Along with Richard Bur- gold or blood-coloured tears on doilies dett, Jacques Herzog and William MacDonough, Boeri has been part of the international decorated with his favourite pop icons, architectural consulta appointed to develop the Concept Masterplan of Expo Milano thus presenting a kind of deconstruct- 2015. Bosco Verticale, as well as being in perfect harmony with the Expo, is today one of ed cinematographic language married the most important examples of modern architecture in Milan and in the world. with the language of television. 51

51 APERTURE

.Txt Marco Cresci .Jpg David Levene Well Done! 52 52 APERTURE

.Txt Marco Cresci .Jpg Alasdair McLellan Well Done!

KENDALL JENNER THE sister of Kim Kardashian is the top model of the moment. After wearing the ineteen year old Kendall, younger sis- ing of socialites. Her Mediterranean beauty has wings of Victoria’s ter of glamor icon Kim Kardashian captured the attention of the fashion world and N - different father and therefore dif- today she is one of the most popular models of Secret, she has become ferent surname - began to get noticed by the fashion designers. Last year she was chosen by general public thanks to the reality show Keep- Riccardo Tisci as the face of the Givenchy F/W the new face of ing Up With The Kardashians, produced by 2014 campaign alongside Mariacarla Boscono channel E!, now in its ninth season. Kendall, and paraded in Paris for Givenchy and Chanel, Calvin Klein. daughter of Olympic champion Bruce Jenner in London for Marc Jacobs and Victoria’s Se- and Kris Jenner, is a real media phenomenon cret, while in Milan she has been spotted on the with over 23 million followers on Instagram and catwalk for Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana, more than 10 million on Twitter, who yearn to Emilio Pucci and Fendi. Topping off her recent follow her worldly adventures, including fash- success comes her new role as the face of Cal- ion shows, red carpet events and the inevitable vin Klein, previously belonging to Justin Bieber Coachella festival in California, a new gather- (her rumoured flame). A PROJECT BY: IN PARTNERSHIP WITH:

WITH THE PATRONAGE OF:

PROVINCIA DI VICENZA 54 APERTURE WORD TO THE WISE

MAN IS STYLE Intriguing statements which reveal what makes celebrities and prominent figures tick.

“ Style is elegance not extravagance. The important thing is “ Personal style is not something that is just not to get noticed but to be remembered in the air. ” It is something you have Giorgio Armani, fashion designer and that you apply to yourself”

Paloma Picasso, fashion designer

“ Fashion should never decide “ You shouldn’t try and who you are. follow Style decides who you are. the fashions of the season.” And perpetuates it ” Dita Von Teese, model Quentin Crisp, writer and actor

“ Style is a way of saying who you are without having “ Create your own style. Let it be unique to speak ” and instantly recognisable ” Rachel Zoe, fashion stylist, designer and editor Anna Wintour, journalist

“ You can tell so much about

“ Style is very personal. who someone is It has nothing to do with fashion. just by their style” Fashion is over quickly. Rihanna, singer Style is forever ”

Ralph Lauren, fashion designer

“ If your hair is done properly “ There is no art and you’re wearing where there is good shoes, you can get away with anything ” no style ” Iris Apfel, fashion icon

Oscar Wilde, writer Internation praisers al Soci Ap ety

AiSCV Graduate Gems & Jewelry Diploma Valuer

Triple Crown AiCertification™2015 AIStandard™ v4: 250-Classroom Hour Global Online Offering V Live AiResidence™ & AiSelfStudy™ in the AiCloud™ with AiMentors AiCore™ Fundamentals of Global, Multi-Speciality, Movable & Affixed Personal Property Valuation & Appraising For AIS Accredited International Valuer Registry™ [AiV-Registry] Licensed Titles:

“AiSV - Appraisers International Society Valuer” [Accredited Member] “AiSCV-AVS™ - Advanced Valuation Specialist” Diploma Certification International: AiS-Law Advanced - AiS-Tax Revenue - AiS-TEx Trial Expert

AiSpecialty AiSCV Diploma Certifications & Titles AiSCV-GJV Gems & Jewelry, AiSCV-RCV Residential Contents, AiSCV-FAV Fine & Decorative Arts

AiSociety Global and Gems & Jewelry contacts: North America: Bill Korst, AiSCV AVS-GJV, GG, AiGovernance Chair T:001 952-944-9443 ; E-Mail: [email protected] New Zealand: Dennis Blacklaws, AiSCV AVS-GJV, GG, AiGovernance Exec. Committee Chair, NZ AiGovernor T: 0064 4566 3668; E-Mail: [email protected] New Zealand: Steve Crout, AiSCV AVS-GJV, FGA, AiGovernor: Gems & Jewelry Division Chair T: 0064 4471 2961; E-Mail: [email protected] Canada: Mitch Forest, AiSCV AVS-GJV, AiGovernor T: 001 604 754 4653; E-Mail: [email protected] U.S.A.: Sanford Arnovits, AiSCV AVS-GJV, AiGovernor T: 001 570 222 2527; E-Mail: [email protected] Europe: Paula Elena Necula, AiSV, AJP, AiGovernor T: 0041 76 44 08 257; E-Mail: [email protected] Australia: Dianne Walker, AiSCV AVS-GJV, FGAA, AiGovernance Liaison T: 0061 418 302 884; E-Mail: [email protected]

AIS President, Program Developer, Author & Presenter: Elly Rosen, AiSCV AVS-GJV, FGA, GG

www.aisociety.com 56 This company has designed the most stunning and incredible cars and reinvented the world of design by creating visually captivating everyday objects.

5 5

E G A IT ER H

For the past three generations Pininfarina’s dream has seduced beauty- lovers and turned them onto the pure perfection of Italian style ·

Words Fabio Schiavo © National Motor Museum/Heritage Images/Getty Images 57 58 heritage Pininfarina heritage Pininfarina 59

legend, eleven letters. money from oil. Pinin remembered: “In September I sold a Pininfarina. And that’s it. Or convertible Dilambda spider to the Queen of Romania; my maybe it would be more exact to say client portfolio began to resemble a small who’s who.” five: simply Pinin – which means ‘little’ in the Piedmont dialect – that was Battista · Pininfarina, a name which also has the Farina’s nickname, the founder of one power to captivate the film world. One such example is the ofA the most famous brands in the world, a brand which magnificent Spider 1600 Alfa Romeo duetto, launched in enjoys legend status, where reality and fiction mix and 1966, which seduced and inspired millions of people, such become one, forever faithful to his pursuit of beauty. A was its iconic status that in 1967 it played a supporting certain style which Pininfarina – he changed his surname role in The Graduate with a very young Dustin Hoffman. from Farina to Pininfarina by deed poll in 1961 – as from Pininfarina style had, however, already conquered the US in 1930, when he launched his company (Società Anonima 1951 with another two-seater spider: Sabrina, directed by

Royal families, diplomats, Maharajas, as well as the odd Sheik in the Middle East who had started to make money from oil... Pinin’s client portfolio soon began to resemble a small who’s who.”

Carrozzeria) on Corso Trapani, Turin, has always remained Billy Wilder and starring Audrey Hepburn, William Holden true to, thus becoming the best ever representative of and Humphrey Bogart, featured a Nash Healey Spider. This Italian style around the world. He enjoyed resounding car, only 300 models of which were produced, was unveiled success right from the start. At the Paris Car Show in 1930 the same year at the Paris Motor Show, and was designed Pinin unveiled Lancia models, Alfa Romeo, Isotta-Fraschini, and built in Italy specifically for the American market. Fiat, while the first custom-built car produced by Pinin Another example of sheer beauty, the perfect blend of Farina, the Lancia Dilambda, took part in the Concorso class, elegance, balance and formal clean lines, arrived d’Eleganza at Villa d’Este in 1931. Success was the order three years later, in 1954: the Lancia Aurelia B24 S, ‘the of the day during that period: the Hispano-Suiza Coupé custom-built mass-produced car’, an essential element and the Fiat 518 Ardita. Other legends on wheels quickly of The Easy Life by Dino Risi, with Vittorio Gassman and followed, the limited edition Lancia Astura convertible. Jean-Louis Trintignant cruising along the Via Aurelia. Many This exclusiveness allowed him to proudly write in one of of the 761 models that were produced went straight to the the very first advertising announcements: ‘We build highly- US. luxurious, luxury cars’. And so began production of cars destined for royal families, diplomats, Maharajas, as well as · But when one says the Pininfarina name, the odd Sheik in the Middle East who had started to make Ferrari immediately springs to mind. The coming together of 60 heritage

two geniuses. It was an almost impossible challenge between ‘Drake’, as Enzo Ferrari was known, who wanted to create dreams, not cars, and Pinin, who had turned design into an art form. An entirely Italian success, with its origins in a remote agricultural area crushed by the ravages of war, the brand became famous thanks to expensive racing cars with elegant, harmonious lines which were so fluid they appeared to fly along the tarmac. “Ferrari and Pinin? It didn’t last. It was like trying to put two prima donnas in the same opera.” That’s what people were murmuring in the car world in the early Fifties. But then, a miracle took place. In 1951 Ferrari made it known that he wished to meet Pinin and invited him to Modena. Pininfarina answered: “I would be more than same year, the chassis had fourteen safety features, eight happy to meet him, but I’d like him to come to Turin first.” of which would go on to be applied in mass automobile They tell him that Ferrari hardly ever leaves Maranello and production in the future. Always in step with the times so he’ll have to make the first move. Stalemate. Negotiations and anticipating new trends, the most famous factory appeared to have ground to a halt. However, Pinin’s son, in Italy, this small-scale artisanal business specialised in

‘Ferrari and Pinin? It didn’t last. It was like trying to put two prima donnas in the same opera.’

Sergio, found a solution to the problem: have the meeting custom-built cars for wealthy private clients, managed to halfway between Modena, on neutral ground. The location? take that gigantic step forward, and progress from the A restaurant in Tortona. Pinin put Sergio in charge of the original premium-quality constructions of the Thirties Ferrari projects as well as communication between the two to the international success of the breathtaking Ferraris companies and their respective technical offices. Very soon and Maseratis. Then in 1966 its original founder died and after, in 1951, the Ferrari 212 was launched, then the 250 GT his son Sergio took control of the company and created and then in 1959 the simply incredible 250 GTO Short Wheel the elegant convertible Peugeot. Towards the end of the Base, the archetype of the technical-aesthetic development Seventies environmental issues caught his attention and process between Ferrari and Pininfarina, a seamless blend the company began work on the first eco-friendly electric of sporty design and timeless elegance. It made its debut at vehicle, it was called Ecos, the name itself was a declaration the Paris Motor Show and went into production two years of his vocation. In the early Nineties the original idea later, two hundred models were made. Then came the 365 was transformed into the Ethos macro-project (Ethos, Daytona, the 308 GBT, the 400I and the Ferrari Modulo Ethos2 and Ethos3), a family of three vehicles featuring concept car in 1970. an aluminium space frame, a recyclable resin chassis, an innovative thermic engine with low emissions, which The creative flownever stopped, bringing led to the zero-emissions Ethos 3EV in 1995. The next together craftsmanship and the future, perfection development was the hybrid vehicles called Eta Beta and and automobile-design technology, such as the 4-door Metrocubo with their modular interior and compact size, Maserati, in 1963 and the incredible projects such as PFX, they later became reality in the shape of the Pininfarina the first ever Pininfarina X concept car, a perfect fusion of BlueCar and the Nido EV: the first was designed for scientific research with original, revolutionary lines. Then moderate distances, as well as for journeys on the open there was the futuristic design of the Rondine Chevrolet road, the latter, on the other hand, was designed for short Corvette in 1963 and the Pininfarina Sigma presented the journeys in the city, it was awarded the Compasso d’Oro in 2008. This city car is totally green: ecological tyres designed by Pirelli, an entirely environmentally-friendly battery thanks to the absence of toxic, polluting chemical substances, furthermore it is 100% recyclable.

· An automobile dream which celebrated its 85th anniversary at the 2015 Motor Show in Geneva, the Pininfarina stand presented one of the six examples of the Ferrari Sergio, a roadster which celebrates the spirit heritage Pininfarina 61

and values of Pininfarina on the anniversary of a 60-year- long professional collaboration with the Prancing Horse. It was originally designed as a celebration of Senator Sergio Pininfarina and was unveiled at the Geneva Motor Show in 2013. Then, how can one forget the Maserati Gran Cabrio, an aerodynamic miracle, a triumph of space, beauty and femininity, a car which would drive even the likes of Samantha and Carrie wild, and perhaps they might even request one in a new version of the Sex and the City film instead of yet another enormous wardrobe or the iconic Manolo Blahniks or Jimmy Choos. And if we go back to needless to say it was a roaring success in the US. The the very beginning we find the aerodynamic Alfa Romeo Cadillac Allanté was a luxury convertible from 1986 – Pinin 6C Pescara Coupé, presented at the Milan Motor Show in supplied Detroit with the complete chassis by means of a 1935 and the Aerodynamic Lancia Aprilia, a sports saloon special airlift organised by Alitalia, based in Caselle (Turin) which was revolutionary from a technical and formal – and the Mythos prototype, unveiled at the 1989 Tokyo point of view. Then there was the Lancia Aprilia Bilux, Motor Show won the 1990 Car Design Award. the first to be produced at the end of the Second World

That’s what people were murmuring in the car world in the early Fifties. But then, a miracle took place.

War, and the 1947 Cisitalia 202 Berlinetta, designed by the · But it’s not all about cars, as Pininfarina has patriarch Pinin himself, so utterly beautiful and innovative also successfully designed everyday objects, projects for that Arthur Drexler described it as ‘sculpture in motion’, interior design, sailing and the aeronautical industry. Examples no coincidence then that it was the first car to enter the include the Sirio telephone for Italy’s Telecom, the automatic permanent collection on display at the MoMA in New York. Lavazza coffee machine for offices; the mineral water bottle Again, just to mention a few more names of the many that for Lauretana as well as the rigid suitcase trolleys designed resulted from the flow of creativity, there is the Fiat 124 for Bric’s. These are all exciting, elegant objects, just like the sport spider, 200 thousand examples were built in 1966, Olympic torch designed for the event in Turin in 2006. 62

« In a world which is so sensitive to financial success, creativity wins desires. For example my most luxury music: 6 cylinder yearly experience is to harvest the is pop, 8 is rock, the battle with financial grapes in my vineyard at the end of 12 is a symphony. gains, because only September. When the engine How much is experience and starts and the car those who are able to tradition worth? is completed the continuously produce Innovation is fundamental moment is magic; because brand history and value is the dream has innovation can have made by the addition of continuous become true, and success » innovation. However, after a number reality is better of years, tradition makes the than the dream. difference. Are you attached to any car in THE FORCE OF TRADITION What is luxury? particular, and why? Il lusso è sinonimo di specialità ed I am very attached to my personal In conversation with Paolo Pininfarina esclusività. car, a metallic blue night Ferrari FF, Do you design by hand or with because it was tailored made for me the computer? and… it is 12 cylinders! It is a good Since the beginning, in 1930 CAD acronym is self explaining: example of luxury experience. Pininfarina has always been inspired design process is strongly ‘aided’ by And which one has given you by creativity and innovation, without the computer. However embryonic the most satisfaction? ever forgetting the force of tradition. ideas are always sketched by hand Recently I have been very glad A philosophy which engineer Paolo Pininfarina, son of Senator for life Sergio and grandson of the patron, considers an important value, indeed, he believes it is absolutely essential to corporate life. For the president of Pininfarina S.p.A. group and Managing Director of Pininfarina Extra (which operates in the sectors of industrial design, furniture design, architectural design, nautical and aeronautical design) this is the group’s distinguishing feature, a skill which seamlessly blends cutting-edge futuristic shapes

with inventive 4.Ever Cambiano pencil; Lavazza Blue LB 1100. This page, clockwise: Vela Chair for Reflex; Yachthouse Yachthouse Reflex; Chair for This Vela clockwise: page, technological Napkin with Pasqualotto; Residence Club in collaboration solutions. You have broadened your field of the success of the Sergio. The Can car beyond cars. What made you concept car for Geneva 13 was deeply design be decide to do this? inspired by my Father and his role considered Of course design projects in the in the construction of the Ferrari similar to jewelry most varied sectors of the industry relationship, and the production of 6 design? are different. But coherence in the units through 2014 has represented Automotive design vision and rigorous attitude an outstanding return back to our exterior design in the development make similarities roots as a manufacturer of luxury and jewels design may be similar if prevalent on differences. This has chassis and grand luxury automobiles they generate emotional involvement been our way to gradually consolidate since our foundation in 1930. The in the observer. our identity from an automotive to a project as a whole has been the best Is the value purely financial? global design house. way to celebrate Absolutely not. Every single When you hear the roar of an our 85th human being has his own concept of engine belonging to a car from anniversary. luxury, depending on his character, your factory, how do you feel? social status, lifestyle and personal The sound of the engine is like a Pininfarina 63 So64 JE WELSFreshSo Fresh, So Clean JEWELS 65

These pages CAMEO ITALIANO Hand carved cameo on shell material. Frames are in 925 sterling silver with black rhodium and set with CZ. A specially crafts made enamel is applied to the silver frame totally by hands.

Photography stefano Styling campo antico anita sciacca So Clean 66 JEWELS So Fresh, So Clean

KARIZIA Bracelet, bangle and ring made of silver from the Fortuna collection

Facing page

MORAGLIONE Anastasia set made of white gold, diamonds, blue sapphires, tsavorite and semi-precious blue rhodium detailing So Fresh, So Clean JEWELS 67 68 JEWELS So Fresh, So Clean JEWELS 69

ISABELLE LANGLOIS White 18-carat gold set with blue topaz, Iolite, blue sapphires and diamonds

Facing page de’ Nobili From the “Civette” collection, pendant and rings in gold and precious stones. 70

Amedeo Scognamiglio and Roberto Faraone Mennella, founders of the Italian brand Faraone Mennella, can be rightly called jewelry couturiers rather than jewelry designers.

70 stories Faraone Mennella Words Katerina Perez

Their gold pieces, be it the everyday hoop earrings or the haute joaillerie necklaces with statement gemstones, have become an integral part of many a woman’s wardrobes. Throughout the years, the creative duo has proven it is important to have a unique vision and improve the brand year-after-year to ascend the ‘jewelry Olympus’ · 71

ʻ In the Spring of 2006, Carol wore our jewelry in the pages of a fashion magazine. Shortly after we met the loving and witty woman behind the Supermodel legend, whose beauty enchanted Italy, where “Carol Alt” is synonymous of “Beautiful woman” ʼ 72 stories

ʻ In a breezy Fall afternoon at the Ritz in Paris, we met the incredibly talented Giovanna Battaglia, the true Ambassador of Italian Style in the world. She’is re-defining the world of Fashion, with her innate sense of chic, irresistible laughter and innocent sex appeal. Watch out, Gio is elegantly taking the Fashion universe by storm!

ʼ

ʻ A true legend in the editorial world, Pamela Fiori crossed our path in March 2002. Since then, her timeless elegance and joie de vivre enlightened our work, reassuring our artistic direction with her intellectual honesty and uncorrupted sense of Style.

ʼ

How did the jewelry brand come about and how did your ‘artisan’ fine jewelry in 18k gold. We wanted to bring the quality and strategic partnership shape up? craftsmanship of Italian masters to the world of fashion accessories. A.S. We have been friends since childhood; we were born The first person we showed our pieces to was the Fashion Director of and raised in Torre del Greco. We have always loved New York Neiman Marcus. She said that our creations were far too modern and City and spent many of a summer holidays there. I belong to the European and that it would never work in the US. Soon, she called sixth generation of leading manufacturers of coral and cameos us and offered to introduce us to a buying team from Dallas. They and moved to the Big Apple to work for my father’s company, M+M wanted to see our work. It was love at first sight and the collection Scognamiglio. Roberto moved to NYC about the same time to study was soon launched at the top 10 Neiman Marcus stores. We became design. RFMAS was born in a Starbucks coffee shop on 8th Avenue in the new ‘hot designers to watch’. the spring of 2001 after Roberto completed his studies. Being a fashion forward fine jewelry brand, do you follow You brought a new concept of jewelry to America. trends? How would you describe it? Our philosophy is to create a concept and design, manufacture It was while living in NYC and hanging out with fashion designers only what we really love and stay true to our brand. Even after 13 and stylists that we realized what the jewelry market was missing: years, our clients continue to buy our pieces. Faraone Mennella has a young, fashion forward and contemporary brand that created become a part of their personal style along with Chanel suits, Hermès Faraone Mennella 73

This page, the Ice Princess necklace. On the previous pages, some of the portraits of the Muses who inspired the designers through the first ten years of their brand, shot by Italian photographer Lorenzo Bringheli

bags and Loro Piana cashmere. We do not follow trends, as it would jewels in Sex and the City, was an accidental opportunity or was mean betraying our loyalists. it destiny? I believe in destiny and the proof is that we are friends even after Your jewelry has been featured in American films like Sex 14 years. and the City and The Devil Wears Prada. How did it contribute to the success of your brand? Some time later you collaboration with the American fashion Success happens for a number of reasons and all are related icon Carolina Herrera. What was it like? to talent and hard work. Of course, good timing and incredible We met Ms Herrera socially in NYC and were asked to design ‘accidental’ opportunities like the ones we had can help propel the jewelry for their Spring/Summer 2004 fashion show. It was very destiny of a brand. However, success comes from the customer’s exciting; we worked with her design team on the fabrics and the appreciation. Sometimes, they respond differently to a new brand mood board. We came up with the most beautiful and colourful than editors do. Recognition by the press is always a blessing; it adds collection of gold necklaces with beads of any stone we could think to your success. But it is also crucial to have a solid understanding of of for the jewelry. The collaboration lasted four years and grew the market. into more than jewelry for fashion shows. We went on to create an exclusive collection of high jewelry – Faraone Mennella for Carolina Do you think meeting Patricia Fields, who featured your Herrera. 74 stories Faraone Mennella 75

Couture is the bespoke Collection of one-of-a-kind and limited edition pieces, exclusively crafted in-house in the tradition of the old Masters from the Renaissance’s Florence or XVIII century’s Paris. Above, the Bullet bracelet; on the opposite page, the Grotta Verde necklace.

Was this the reason you started Couture jewelry line the creative window designer and among the best dressed women in the following year? world. We worked with her for years at Bergdorfs. Linda inspires us Yes, precisely. Thanks to our collaboration with Carolina, we with her unique and ever contemporary and never boring style. learned what it means to be a couturier. It is not just about the price tag of the jewel. It is also about the process, attention to detail and What is the next step for Faraone Mennella? knowing exactly who you are designing for. Couture is not a product. The new projects include the opening of an AMEDEO boutique It is a lifestyle. in Miami next year at the new One Brickell Center. Then we have a Faraone Mennella boutique at Bal Harbour Shops coming up in 2017. In 2011, you celebrated your 10th anniversary with a special photo project featuring your muses. Who are they? That is strictly work. Surely, you must have planned For our milestone anniversary, we decided to celebrate not only something fun too. ourselves but also the women who helped us build our brand with Every year, we throw a magnificent party in Capri – ‘Viva their support and style inspirations. Our friend Carol Alt is a fashion Capri Ball, a weekend of bejewelled extravaganza for a VIP guest legend and an icon of beauty, especially for Italians. Then there is list comprising top clients, editors and celebrities. It started out Pamela Fiori, who is the Lady of NYC society, and editor-in-chief of four years ago with the opening of our boutique on the island and Town and Country magazine. Pamela has also authored many books. grew bigger every year since. This year, we have a special launch – Linda Fargo is the Fashion Director of Bergdorf Goodman and one CapriGirl, a fabulous collection of fashion accessories and jewelry of the most influential women in fashion. Besides, she is the most inspired by the 1960s DolceVita years of Capri. 76

On Inspiration and the Creative Process

76 masters Words Anthony DeMarco

An exclusive interview with Roberto Coin. His brand produces jewelry in many styles that is both beautiful and well crafted. In recent years he has branched out to create other products ·

oberto Coin founded the company and well crafted. In recent years he has branched that would bear his name in Vicenza in out to create other products, such as shoes, bags 1977 as a manufacturer who produced and perfumes. pieces for some of the most prestigious Rluxury jewelry brands in the world. In 1996, he In this interview he discusses his personal tastes launched the Roberto Coin brand and its success in art and design and how it inspires the jewelry was quick and extraordinary. It has grown to he creates. become one of the best known and most renowned Italian jewelers in the world. It is known for its 18k Who are your design heroes? gold pieces in a variety of geometric shapes along I can say that during my life I have studied all with nature and animal inspired themes; and for the best designers of the past, considering them the variety of colored gems and diamonds he uses extremely interesting and stimulating. Besides in his creations. respecting all of them and loving some of them very much, I have always chosen to be different In addition to being a creator of beautiful and to follow my own way and my own perception, designs, he also is a master of the production culture and sensitivity. After a quite long adventure process. He efficiently produces jewelry in many and experience in creativity I am still very proud styles and in large quantities that is both beautiful and satisfied about this initial decision. 77 78 masters Buccellati 79

Roberto Coin · 79 masters Do you look at jewelry design trends? Or do you focus on doing what you do What are your favorite design subjects? best? My design subjects are many and that is the way we It is fundamental to be create over 600 new models every year, usually including informed about the latest many new inedited subjects. This is for the changing requests trends in fashion and style, of the different markets, the different fashion trends and which are not always global but my personal evolution in the love for creativity. usually very different from country to country as well as the economic Can you provide any examples of quality design in situations. I am always very curious and your daily life? For example anything you purchased try to find out what is missing in this symphony of elements recently, or architecture that you admire, furnishings, … and that is going to be the subject of my next creation. etc… I love art very much and I usually buy many creations. The Not only do you produce beautiful, well-designed and last ones were a painting from the Roman artist Luigi Garzi crafted jewelry but you produce very large quantities of of the 600. Two creations form the young Indian designer jewelry. How is it that you are able to combine the two? Sachindra Nath Jha and as furniture the new ‘Michetta’ sofas In our company it has always been imperative to be for my Dubai and Basel booths from Meritalia, designed extremely efficient. To get this, we study continuously the by Mario Bellini, a real hymn to colors and joy. I am sure new trends and colors, we train the staff to be always ready that the upcoming biennale in Venice will show some new to welcome the new technologies and innovations and to outstanding design masterpieces. mix them with the heritage of the tradition.

In addition to being a great designer, you seem to have great skill as a manufacturer. How did you develop this? My own philosophy, as I am sure you have already understood from my previous answers, is that you are never good and clever enough. Being a simple designer today is not enough and that is why I have visited over 2,000 factories in my life and spent huge amount of time conversing with the best Italian maestros and artisans of jewelry. Today, I am proud to say that there should be no Do you have an object that you will never part with? piece of jewelry in the world that I am not able to understand I am dreamer of the future, more related to what is how it is manufactured. coming than to what is going, moreover, having changed 26 domiciles in my life there are very few objects that still remain with me. They are my father’s radio and Vespa from the ’40s and his painting form the ’50s. I also still keep a porcelain dog from Meissen that belonged to my mother.

What are your favorite jewelry subjects? I love them all as long as they are extremely innovative, elegant and of course well made. From the simplicity and purity of linear designs to the more detailed ones, inspired by the animal world and the legendary allure they represent.

Where is your favorite place to be inspired or create your designs? I would say Venice, which is the place where I spend lot I understand you produce other products besides of my time and where I usually design. Anyway, in the last jewelry. Would like to discuss those items and why you year I’ve designed during my long flights around the world, create them? always dreaming to be in islands like Capri or Santorini, It is the continuous challenge to create something surrounded by the typical Mediterranean’s sea perfume, the always new, I decided to create jewels as they are the best flowers, the food and the endless stories that characterize expression of elegance for me but it is important to be able those places. Anyway, the sound of water is the fundamental to create also other products like shoes, bags, perfumes, ingredient of my personal receipt of creativity. statues and to measure yourself continuously. 80 From

80 TRENDS There has always been an exchange of silhouettes and trends between the fashion world and the precious jewelry industry. Last year saw the emergence of three such trends which began their journey in base metal yet today are available in gold, adorned with multi-colored gemstones and sparkling diamonds. fashion

The hand, a very important part of the body providing a good landscape for jewelry, can be flaunted with ease and flair. While bejeweled ears have been in trend since time immemorial, most earrings are designed to comply with gravity and only few extend upwards.

Words Preeta Agarwa

Manish Arora SS14 fashion show to fine TRENDS 81 81

PART I.  This fashionable hand ornament by Hands Full renowned Mexican jewelry designer Colette uses white and black diamond flowers pave Bold and stylish, hand ornaments are no studded in 18 karat yellow gold. A single line longer restricted to just bracelets and rings. bracelet and flowers strung on thin gold Using the full hand as a canvas, bejeweled chains decrease in size across the hand hand ornaments in all shapes and sizes are and gently wrap around the finger as an much in demand. Connecting the ring to elaborate ring. This black and white bauble the bracelet, these hand ornaments take from the Les Fleurs collection adds an inspiration from traditional Indian hand intriguing touch to a sensual black dress at ornaments or ‘Hathphool’ worn by Indian an evening rendezvous. brides on her wedding day. Contemporary versions come in all varieties- studded with diamonds, classic or floral in inspiration and even detachable versions that can be worn in separate parts.

 Hong Kong based fine jewelry brand Entice, famous for its creative juxtaposition of fancy shaped diamonds presents a unique concept in this white and rose gold hand ornament. A versatile piece for modern brides, this broad bracelet connects to the ring by detachable diamond chains and a multipurpose flower motif that can alternatively be worn as a pendant. This multi wearability feature has made this hand ornament a fast seller. A full hand ornament may not be required everyday, yet a floral pendant or a classic ring can be worn  A traditional hand ornament by the anytime. Indian fine jewelry brand Mirari, from the Memoirs of a Maharani series showcases  From the first collaborative the fine art of setting uncut diamonds in 22 collection between eclectic Indian designer karat yellow gold known as Kundan Polki Manish Arora and traditional jewelry in India. Worn as a pair on both hands of maestro Amrapali - India Enchanted, the Indian bride, this hand ornament takes features chunky tribal ornaments in inspiration from Mughal architecture, a mélange of colors. The Gazelle hand especially incorporating the lotus flower. jewel is a modern take on the traditional A sleek version of the usually fuller hand Indian hand ornament with pop colored ornament, this accessory connects a four enamel in various hues of pink, blue and petal floral ring to the three-row bracelet by green. Enveloping the entire hand, the a dainty single row of uncut diamonds and Gazelle wraps around the wrist and further lotus motif designed to rest at the back of connects all five fingers with little clusters the palm. of charm bells and heart motifs. 82 82 TRENDS

PART II. BETWEEN THE FINGERS

Finger rings come in all shapes and sizes. Some may prefer a single one while others multiple ones on both hands. Some like them sleek and some like them bold. For those who prefer them dramatic, here comes a new trend- between-the-finger rings. Leaving behind the long reign of cocktail rings, these between-the-finger rings are unique storytellers on their own and prove a perfect choice of accessory for those who love to experiment with their jewelry. From delicate versions to  Bold, beautiful and with a touch of bold forms, jewelers across the globe are darkness, London based Leyla Abdollahi’s embracing this new trend with full zest. jewelry successfully demands your attention. As part of her collection Lust & Lure Leyla explores dark and mysterious combinations of colors and materials. The two-finger rings uses diamond studded three-dimensional knots as the main motif visible above the fingers connected by yellow gold rings. Color combinations such as black and yellow or white, yellow & green reflect Leyla’s essential design characteristics prevalent throughout her collections.

 Using forms from Mother Nature is an intrinsic factor at the design studios  This exceptional ring from British- of renowned French jewelry house - Van born designer Stephen Webster’s Cleef & Arpels. Known for their fairies and Magnipheasant Plumage collection covers flowers, this simple yet unique between-the- three fingers with deep green emeralds and finger ring is part of the Lotus collection diamonds. Known for his fearless creativity, and features the Chinese symbol of wisdom, Stephen’s haute couture jewelry collection prosperity and love in a delightfully elegant pays tribute to the British Isles with jewels form. The ring features an ingenious method inspired by the plumage of England’s iconic by which it can be worn as a between-the- game bird, the pheasant, infused with the finger ring or for a different occasion. By signature style of Stephen Webster, bringing virtue of a simple to use mechanism it can back to life a swathe of feathers in a riot of be twisted to be worn on a single finger colors and exotic precious gemstones. with the flowers and leaves stacked up altogether.  The all diamond two-finger ring forms part of the latest Bow collection launched by one of the oldest jewelry houses in the world- Garrard as part of celebrations marking its 280th Anniversary. The Bow motif resonates throughout Garrard’s history since 1858 when it made a series of three bow diamond brooches for Queen Victoria. One of the most feminine motifs, the bow always invokes a ‘girlie’ feeling in anyone who adorns it and similarly, this two-finger ring has a playful charm to it as the ribbon elegantly wraps around the fingers. 83

- 83 - Clockwise: Louis Vuitton FW15; Valentino, Jean Paul Gaultier, House of Holland S/S 2015 84 84 TRENDS

Rodarte FW13

PART III. Up The Ears

Earrings, often experimented in their lengths below the ear lobe, have at times, also been designed along the curve of the ear. Ear cuffs- a trend that surfaces every two decades has historical references in most eras where money was flowing, leading to expensive tastes. Considered as a traditional ornament in India, ear cuffs have been in vogue again for the last two years across the globe. Moving swiftly from the fashion jewelry industry to elaborate examples in gold studded with diamonds, this accessory has taken Hollywood by storm lining the red carpets with an array of ear cuffs from traditional Indian to punk-like designs.

 As part of the Ruby Embrace series Mirari presents an elaborate traditional Indian ear ornament. Taking inspiration from the elegant Indian national bird- The Peacock, the bird sits poised on the lobe as its tail twirls and covers the entire ear along the outer curve where little gold clips hold the jewel to the ear. Red, considered the most auspicious color in India, the peacock earrings designed for a bride are studded with rubies, pearls and diamonds in 18 karat yellow gold. A pearl and ruby bead tassel add a desired graceful finish to the whole ornament.

 Mumbai based designer Bina Goenka is well known for her fusion of Indian traditions and contemporary art and such are these one-of-a-kind hand crafted ear ornaments. A unique combination of flowers, leaves, peacocks and bells studded with diamonds, rubies and pearls in yellow gold. The sharp contrast of the channel set rubies outline the form of the ear as the elegant gold and pearl bells hang from the ear lobe with a gentle tassel and two peacocks perched on each bell. TRENDS 85 85

 Bolder than ever, this year ear cuffs even possess a punk edge. The ear cuffs from Greek designer Nikos Koulis’ Fontana collection are stylized wings that climb up the ear in white and black diamond studded free flowing spirals. Where white diamonds in white gold add grace to the ear cuff, black diamonds in black rhodium plated gold add a Punk statement to the same design. A gold wire cleverly designed to go behind the ear ‘Ear climbers’ by Lynn Ban for Donna connects the top of the earpiece to the base Karan’s “Power and at the lobe, providing the necessary support Poetry” FW15 show required to wear such a large piece.

 Each piece from the Lust & Lure collection by Leyla Abdollahi is a special treat in itself. Dark and enigmatic, intricately carved black onyx wings in mid-flight form a major part of this pair of asymmetric earrings. Accented with white diamonds set in black rhodium plated gold and streaks of deep green emeralds, the earrings exhibit a very surrealistic appeal. Two marquise cut emeralds dangling from the top of the ear add the finishing touch, connected through a thin wire designed to hide behind the ear. Influenced by the post-war era of the 1920’s, this collection of jewels by Leyla takes us back to the elegant and sophisticated era of Art Deco.

 As part of her latest Blue Drift collection, Colette explores the free flowing form of birds as they fly fearlessly across the blue sky. The black, white and grey diamond studded earpiece is called Istanbul, as the idea for the collection originated during her recent trip to Turkey. The feathers of the wings dramatically trail the line of the ear adding an edgy touch to the whole piece. Not necessarily designed to be worn on both ears, this cuff can be worn on a single ear only as a style statement.

86 e necta n th r of d o the re g su od a s, e c m r e e r a t a i n s t g c t e h t i e

h m c

r

o

a

s

t

t 86 cross Words Ilaria Danieli

s

s

e

p

b

e

c

s

’

t

a d

l

c

r

u

o

l

a

w

r

e

c

h

a

T

t

h

e

d

r

a

l

s

o

f

w

i

n

e

.

A journey through On the opposite page: Tenuta Castelbuono: inside the copper- covered dome of the “Carapace” the musty scent in Bevagna, Perugia. The building - the first sculpture in which it is possible to live and work - is the of some of Italy’s most result of the Lunelli family’s long- standing friendship with Arnaldo Pomodoro. [Ph. A. Mulas] representative wine cellars 87 [Ph. A. Mulas] 88 CROSS In Vino Virtus

is possible to find many aesthetic parallels between volumetric jewels of design and prestige, and wineries designed by the starchitects of the moment, from the bubbles of the Nardini distillery created by Massimiliano Fuksas to the carapace of the Castelbuono estate designed by Arnaldo Pomodoro, e. nc re although no deeper analogies exist. The most interesting lo F a, relationship between virtuous oenology and jewelery is in our es P i opinion the concept of luxury that these worlds express, in d al V the sense of beauty reflected from the unique nature of Italian o an landscapes onto craftsmanship and the quality of the products, ci as C be it agricultural or goldsmith, to the respect for the land and an S human labour which in these contexts become exclusive added in o n values. rgi a B t a A common matrix also lies between the attention lent to ti ia oc s image, which renders the necessity of cathedrals of luxury s A a built by the largest fashion houses with broad appeal for the e h c most fashion oriented architects and interior designers such r A y b as Mark Newson and Zaha Hadid, and the suggestive vastness d e n of wine producers though in this case too the link is rather ig s e more apparent than substantial. d , y r e n i

In fact, while the griffes fight it out with cubic meters on the W

i r central streets of the world’s metropolis, occupying historic o n i t buildings or building new ones, the most famous wineries are n A

e located in the hills, isolated from inhabited areas, and thus h

T

the evocative power of the context in which they are located is

diametrically opposed to that of the flagship store.

At one end of the spectrum, the bustle of the city, at the

other the tranquillity of the countryside, concrete versus earth,

the shopping frenzy as opposed to meditative tasting time. That

is why investment on a structure of the most enlightened wine

entrepreneurs begins with different assumptions from that of

the fashion world and aims to enhance the culture of pleasure

more than consumption, the territory rather than the logo on the facade.

A logo that in many cases is non-existent, being super wineries camouflaged among the vines and often developed in terms of depth rather than height. Also because, the starchitects active in wine cellar design, such as Renzo Piano and Mario Botta elsewhere design great museums rather than applying their wizardry on large commercial spaces.

And above all, a fundamental difference: while fashion can take root anywhere and outsource to the bitter end to save on labor costs, of a qualitatively good level even in developing countries, wine and gold can not be separated from the territories in which vines mature and ateliers find root of the best craftsmen who gain experience and synergies in only certain districts in order to achieve the best artifacts. Hence why in Valenza the big brands of LVMH produce their collections; and the cellars of Marchesi Antinori have been located in the hills of Chianti for five centuries. 89

e. nc re lo F a, es P i d al V o an ci as C an S in o n rgi a B t a ti ia oc s s A a e h c r A y b d e n ig s e d , y r e n i

W i r o n i t n

A e h

T

90 CROSS In Vino Virtus 91

The winery and the “house - manifesto” by Alberto Alessi at Pratolungo, on the banks of the Orta Lake. The “Cascina detta Eugenia”, Eugenia’s Farm, recovery project was overseen by Alessandro and Francesco Mendini. The bottles, produced by the wine company, all numbered, are engraved on the bottom with a pattern inspired by Da Vinci “knots” and “wear” labels designed by Spanish designer Marti Guixé. [Ph. Giacomo Giannini] 92

Above The Nardini Grappa Distillery designed by Massimiliano and Doriana Fuksas in Bassano del Grappa, Vicenza.[Ph. M. Danesin] Below The Domini Castellare di Castellina winery, in Castellina in Chianti, Siena, the work of Renzo Piano Facing page The Cantina Petra winery in Suvereto in the Piombino hinterland designed by Mario Botta CROSS In Vino Virtus 93 93

The similarities between the two sectors, that of wine and Antinori, others offer space to contemporary art, such as the gold, however, end there, as the size of the companies and the Nardini distillery with its Garage, others support artists through numbers they produce are very different, with clear supremacy sponsorship and restoration of local heritage. of wine enterprises over jewellers. In addition, the territorial link for the gold sector is based on human factors, while for wine it is Even more refined is the design project of entrepreneur more biological and organic, rooted in the very vines. Hence the Alberto Alessi, who bought Cascine Eugenia on Lake Orta in order reason why producers of prosecco and brunello can afford the to produce good wine but also to dwell and promote literary best architectural investments and celebrity architects whose job construction of the place, creating a sort of Opera Aperta which it is to primarily focus on enhancing the area, to create a structure Alexandro and Francesco Mendini (well known names in post- that blends in with it and penetrate its depths where visitors, after modern design) participated as authors of architectural design. “I admiring the views over the worked - explains Alessi - around vineyards, can see the barrels in an aesthetic idea that concerned, which the wine matures, follow of course, the quality of the wine, the processes of fermentation but also all the things that exist and bottling, breathe the aromas around it, such as buildings, the of the grape pressing process bottle, the graphics of the labels, and the scent of the wood. packaging, the website, in short, all aspects of communication.” Many of the most celebrated structures are in fact partly On the subject of or entirely underground. communication: thanks to these Petra in Suvereto by Mario projects so rich in content, the Botta, Tenuta Castelbuono in most photogenic and narrative Bevagna by Arnaldo Pomodoro, ‘cantine’ have ended up in every Cantine Antinori in Bargino international magazine, not by Studio Hydea, Rocca di only relating to food and wine Frassinello in Maremma by but also design, art, luxury and Renzo Piano, although very lifestyle; they have become books different, demonstrate the will and exhibitions, transforming assimilated in enhancing and themselves into incredible media discovering “madre terra “ phenomenon, surely at least which, by nourishing the vines, partly calculated, a great added produces the aromatic beverage. value for their companies. “ Perhaps, among the most wonderful works of architecture Here is perhaps the best - writes Mario Botta - we have example of how the wine world to include the special ability can give to the goldsmith’s art to visualize the fleeting and excellent results that can be uncertain emotions which weave achieved through investment the tapestry of memory.” in deep-rooted areas, such as in the land and quality of A prime example is Renzo production, human capital and its Piano, who before accepting the project of Paolo Panerai and uniqueness, instead of on superficial appearance and furnishings Eric de Rothschild, the owners of Rocca, requested a helicopter (of the person or the environment in which the products are flight over the area assigned to the future cellar. “I always need to sold), as seems to be the preferred way in which the jewelry world understand the environment before taking on a project and get a presents itself to us. bird’s eye view. An architect must learn to fly. “ It is true that today clothing and accessories companies exert In addition to the slower times imposed by the land accustomed a driving force in the media world and compete in opening laudable to meditation and reflection, we find in the vigneron a more Foundations and by sponsoring the restoration of monuments or marked cultural sensitivity than in the jeweler, apart from the case old movies, but few bring their clients to get a close up look at the in which vigneron and jeweler coincide, such as the Fasoli family places where they create their products materially and generate of Brescia which also owns the estate of excellence Cà del Vent in poles of artistic interest. It may be true that the laboratories Franciacorta, studded with specific works of art situated in the do not scenically sit among the hills, but urban and productive vineyards. Some wine cellars boast a museum, such as Cantine settlements in Italy also have hidden beauties. 94

94 journey into Marco Bicego

A family history of goldsmithing, creativity and a passion for craftsmanship and precious stones, curiosity which goes beyond the national borders, this, in short, is the profile ofMarco Bicego, a forty-eight year old entrepreneur who, in January 2000, created one of the most internationally sought-after Italian brands ·

Words Donatella Zappieri 95

brilliant intuition led him to transfer Helements ofis local goldsmithing traditions inherited from his father, to an elegant factory in Trissino, near Vicenza, where a workforce of almost eighty people work on collections which are innovative as well as traditional and include goldsmithing techniques from the past. The result is fine jewelry, with a contemporary flavour, in complete harmony with the creator’s love of fine aesthetics. the brand’s stylistic identity. Each collection often The building stands in front of the old family factory contains two techniques in particular: the guitar and is perfectly in keeping with the canon and style string technique, a special twisting done by hand particular to Marco Bicego, who has been the heart which adds movement to hand-engraving and creates and soul of the brand for the past fifteen years: a brushed effect which is also scratch-proof. These «I strive to add continuity, skills and vision to the collections are inspired by «the imperfect perfection On this page, the Lunaria collection know-how I inherited from my father and enrich the of nature. No two waves or petals or shapes are alike. and a portrait of Marco experience ». Airy spaces, lots of natural light and a The same goes for our jewelry: from the rings to Bicego, entrepreneur and designer workshop where around eighty people craft «unique the chains, they are all different. Irregular». Unique collections, using exclusive techniques in which local shapes in fact. This philosophy has managed to crack traditional goldsmithing techniques blend seamlessly the international markets. Primarily the United States with new techniques resulting from constant «which accounts for 40-45% of our entire turnover. » innovation». The Marrakech and Lunaria collections are Jewelry by Marco Bicego is entirely both iconic yet thoroughly representative of ancient made in Italy, and is predominately goldsmithing traditions. made of yellow gold and semi-precious Marrakech, which showcases the guitar string stones – often cut according to clients’ technique, is celebrating its fifteenth anniversary this specifications – which come from year. The designer is particularly attached to this Brazil and India. The techniques collection because it was one of the first collections belong to ancient local goldsmithing to represent the unmistakable balance between traditions which, through constant modernity and timeless taste, hallmarks of the reinterpretation, have become essential aesthetic vision belonging to Marco Bicego and his distinguishing characteristics within creations. 96 JOURNEY INTO Marco Bicego

On this page, the Milan flagship store at 5, via Spiga . On the opposite page, the Marrakech collection: part of the working process including traditional techniques.

SIVIGLIA PARADISE GOA CONFETTI JAIPUR JAIPUR LINK the Timeline

2004 2005 2006 2007 2009 2010 JOURNEY INTO Marco Bicego 97

Lunaria, launched last year, is inspired by the exquisite flower of the same name. The design of the entire collection boasts a pared-down, secret style, encapsulated in every tiny detail. The distinguishing characteristics of this collection, entirely hand-crafted from 18-carat yellow gold, are the delicate gold shapes which echo the gentle movement of leaves fluttering in the breeze. Each intentionally irregular silhouette, is crafted by expert master goldsmiths. An elegant frame embraces the beauty of every single element and underlines its minimalist nature. The alternate sequence of irregular chains and hand-engraved elements adds inimitable grace to the collection, typical Bicego style. The entire collection has been crafted using the ancient chiselling technique involving a burin. For this entrepreneur, Lunaria is a true tribute to the maison’s extraordinary heritage, which contains a sophisticated assortment of products, enriched by hand-set diamonds.

A world tour The brand has two distribution channels: jewellers and retail. A huge turning point in the distribution policy undoubtedly came from the launch of the first single-brand Marco Bicego store in the quadrangle of Milanese fashion at 5, Via Spiga. Following the international branches in Verona, vision was an instinctive decision. Today, the concept Budapest, Mykonos, Crete and Tokyo – as well as a of being Italian is still a crucial value for the brand, its shop- in- shop in Harrod’s in London and Harvey ties with the local area as well as Italy as a whole, the Nichols in London and Birmingham – the welcoming celebration of ancient techniques are still important Milan boutique covers 60 m2, and boasts two windows stages within the development of the collections. which display the brand’s whole universe, the iconic Nevertheless, my vision of femininity remains a Goa, Jaipur, Marrakesh, Paradise collections as well as constant, a tribute to the most elevated concept of one-of-a-kind pieces specially designed for the store beauty; the enhancement of elegance. A love of nature launch. and organic curves complete the picture.” For this designer, jewelry is a byword for luxury Pure imagination “Designing and creating and preciousness, the ideal client is a woman who jewelry was a natural change of direction in terms makes choices based on her personality and lifestyle. of my personal and professional choices. Working Choosing and wearing a piece of jewelry is, in fact, an for the family business and deciding to become an harmonious decision made with oneself, in accordance entrepreneur to follow my dreams and aesthetic with one’s individual style and taste.

AFRICA MURANO MURANO LINK LUNARIA NEW MARRAKECH NEW PARADISE

2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 98 FASHION

BADEL JEWELS From the Manhattan Photography collection, necklaces and bracelets in silver and mixed stones.

Pull and trousers Missoni Stefano Moro fur vest Furrylab Van Wyk

Fashion Rebecca Baglini 99 Photography Stefano Moro Van Wyk

FASHION 99 Rocking That Seventies Vibe

Fashion Rebecca Baglini 100 FASHION

LUCA CARATI Ring, earrings and necklace in white gold and diamonds from the Leaves collection.

Underwear Eres and white coat Agnona

Facing page

CASATO ROMA Earrings in 18kt rose gold with diamonds and blue topaz from the Rio collection.

White shirt Celine printed blouse Weili Zheng FASHION 101101 102 FASHION FASHION 103103

NOVECENTONOVANTANOVE Ring and bracelet in rose gold mesh with brown diamonds from the Armonie line.

Coat and dress Weili Zheng

Facing page damiani Earrings and ring from the Gomitolo collection in yellow gold and diamond lateral.

Jumper Stella Jean 104 APERTUREFASHION FASHION 105105

MEISSEN COUTURE JOAILLERIE From the Infinity collection, collier and bracelet in white gold and diamonds.

Black turtleneck Ballantyne, white coat Ports 1961

Facing page

CHANTECLER Ring and pendent earrings in yellow gold, yellow diamonds and lava stone from the Rendez- Vous collection.

Silk jumpsuit Equipment, coat Stella Jean 106 FASHION 107107

ROBERTO COIN Hair Alessandro Necklace and ring in pink Squarza at Face To Face gold from the Oro Make-Up Alessandra Classic collection. Casoni at Freelancer Model Kristen M at Elite Blazer Yves Saint Assist. Stylist Camilla Laurent, top Michael Guccione Prata Kors, trousers Calvin DGT Operator Sheila Zedda Klein, shoes Coliac. Assist. Photographer Giordano Nagro Facing page Studio Milano Studio Digital

STEFAN HAFNER The photographer, From the Oceano at fisheyeagency collection, bracelet and The stylist, ring in white gold set at hm Battaglia with diamonds and blue sapphires.

Leather coat Trussardi, printed blouse Weili Zheng 108 CELEBRATION Versace Watches

Versace Watches Celebrates 25 Years As CEO Discusses the Future of Watches The Italian high luxury fashion house, Versace, is renowned throughout the world for its bold, colorful clothing and accessories. Some people may be surprised to learn that the company’s products also include fashion watches. In fact, it was one of the first international fashion houses to create watch lines. Words Anthony De Marco

he watch business is now 25 years old and for The second was the big unveiling at Baselworld, the top-of-the-line its anniversary the company is celebrating in a big way. At DV-25, known as the ‘talking-piece.’ It is a jewelry watch housed in an Baselworld the company unveiled the DV-25 watch. The 18k gold case measuring 34 mm on each side, decorated by 28 baguette- steel case with a yellow gold finish features all the iconic cut diamonds on the bezel, in addition to a full diamond pavé crown. symbolsT of the fashion house: the Greek key engraved on the bezel and This particular watch has an automatic movement with special chiseled dial, the studs set around the entire inner perimeter, the Medusa head customization. Only two copies of this watch have been made and neither in relief on the crown, and the V-shaped inserts applied to the strap. is for sale. The first is for Donatella Versace, Versace’s artistic director Available in black and white colors, the DV-25 indexes are adorned with and the second will be donated to a charity. diamonds and sword-shaped hands powered by a Swiss made quartz movement. The back of the case is adorned with “DV 25,” marking the Paolo Marai Vertime, President & CEO Timex Group Swiss Luxury anniversary. In addition, to main collection, the DV-25 is also available in Division, a division of Timex that is responsible for the design, manu- two limited editions. The first has a 30 mm per side bezel adorned with facturing and distribution of Versace watches and the fashion house’s full pavé diamond and Greek key engravings. It is available in a black or more affordable watch brand, Versus, says 25 years is an important white model. A total of 150 pieces will be produced. milestone. “In the watch industry, with its history and culture, 25 years 109

DV-25 110 CELEBRATION Versace Watches

Vanitas

is kind of silly. But for a fashion brand, it is one of the few who can cel- from 25 to 45 years of age. “That’s quite a wide range of people,” he says. ebrate such an anniversary in watches,” he said. “These watches reflect Of course, the DV-25 wasn’t the only watch unveiled in Baselworld. In the history of the company while having a contemporary look.” Marai fact the brand introduced a number of collections, all of them featuring the credits the success of the Versace watch business to the founder of iconic Versace Medusa head in a number of ways. For example, the Dylos Versace, the late Gianni Versace, whom he says had the vision to create Limited Edition jewelry timepiece has a dial that is mostly covered by a quality timepieces as a fashion accessory. guilloché sunray gold-plated guard with the Medusa head in 3D. It uses an automatic movement and is available in two versions: IP gold with a Marai is upbeat about Versace’s watch business, saying its best years black dial, or two-tone with a white dial, limited to 500 pieces worldwide. are to come, particularly in the United States—currently Vertime’s third Meanwhile, the Medusa head of the Khai watch sits in the center of the dial, largest market with Saudi Arabia by far the number one market. He says against a chiseled diamond pattern background and surrounded by an area that for the past two years the company has been investing heavily in decorated with a guilloché sunray design. The top-of-the-line model has a America and he expects 2015 to be a big year. “We see a huge opportunity diamond-adorned bezel, red topaz-studded indexes and burgundy strap. in the US,” Marai said. “We’ve achieved good results during our initial The black enamel dial of the Vanitas watch features baroque decoration expansion (in 2013) and now we are poised to expand exponentially,” add- that stands out against a background of stitches in relief with the Medusa ing that “the key our success is the quality of our products.” Part of the head. The V-Helix watch incorporates a more discreet Medusa head at 6 reason he’s optimistic is because the market for Versace watches ranges o’clock. The dial of the V-Metal Icon 46 mm men’s watch is embellished Versace Watches 111

V-Metal Icon

by a centrally set coin bearing the Medusa head, surrounded by a guilloché sunray pattern and the concentric Greek key design. The talk at Baselworld this year was the smart watch. Part of Marai’s job is to look at trends and he sees smart watches as having an important future in the watch industry. However, he isn’t impressed by the first generation products that are available, including the much publicized Apple Watch. “It will definitely be part of the business in the future but they have not changed the market yet,” he says. He says there are two significant problems with smart watches right now. They are essentially a “phone on a wrist,” and the battery life is too short. “It is not yet a real solution.” He says the turning point for the smart watch will be when it combines an analogue watch with digital information stored on the glass the covers the dial. For example the digital information will appear on command when the person taps the clear watch screen, he says. The technology is available it just has to be adapted for this specific purpose. “You’ll be able to add it onto any type of watch.” 112 Estate Jewelry

Siegelson to vintage changed and estate approach The jewelry H un t e r T r e as u Siegelson 113

Vintage jewelry is no ordinary thing as many pieces have their own private history kept hidden away and can tell us fascinating facts about the change in traditions and fashion trends of different time periods.

Even though the designers of these jewels are no longer with us, their artistry lives on in the form of their masterpieces wrought from metal and precious

stones · Words Katerina Perez

ntique of historical importance have long been a sought after quantity among collectors and dealers all over the world. One of these jewel hunters, Lee Siegelson, is based in New York. Unlike many dealers, he acquires pieces on the basis of their indisputable beauty rather than their value, which he holds as a secondary concern. This approach to the business has allowed Lee to bring some incredibly rare pieces of jewelry designed since the turn of the 20th Century until modern times to his New York show room. These pieces have been able to fundamentally change the idea of antique jewelry as something old fashioned that you purchase as an investment and lock up in a safe. Since 1992 Lee Siegelson has headed up the business set up by his father. These days he plays an active role in a number of art ex- hibitions, such as the Biennale des Antiquaires, Mastepiece London and Fine Art Asia, where his salons resemble minimalist style art gal- leries. Instead of the usual mass of jewelry displayed altogether, Lee gives each piece its own space. And you would do so, when you are displaying jewelry which has been worn by such distinguished figures as the Duchess of Windsor! 114 estate jewelry

Being a true gem hunter you enriched Siegelson with many spec- tacular pieces. What qualities should a jewel possess in order to catch your attention and interest? We are looking for jewels that are considered in their design, which are beautiful, and well made. Many of the pieces we offer are important names such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Suzanne Belperron, Fouquet, Above, left and others. However, the name of the jeweler is not the main focus so there The Timken Necklace are also unsigned pieces which are beautifully proportioned and perfectly - an art deco emerald, made. Siegelson collection expands further to Jewelry by Siegelson which sapphire, and diamond pendant necklace by are exquisitely designed jewels incorporating important stones. The finest Cartier, Paris, 1925 examples of jewelry design are universally desirable so I select the pieces that one would hold in their hand and would want to own it.

Your collection boasts many a rare and important art deco works Above, right of the famed French jewellers mentioned above. Why would you say Art Deco Aquamarine, diamond and enamel jewelry of this period is so alluring? bracelet created by The Art Deco period was the height of change and excitement in the Jean Fouquet, Paris 1926 arts and in jewelry. It was at this time that jewelry designers elevated their work to an art form and created something that was more than just wearable trinkets. This particular moment marked the true beginning of modern jewelry, bold in form and color. The pieces reference the techno- logical and social excitement of the era and incorporated exotic elements from a newfound globalization. The Art Deco was influential worldwide and we have examples of wonderful works by American makers such as Black, Starr & Frost clock. However, for the most part the best examples from this important era are still French.

21 century artists like Michelle Ong also became a part of Siegel- son collection. How do Michelle’s creations ‘speak’ to you? Michelle Ong is a designer who looks to the past for inspiration and transforms historic forms such as lace cuff into something thoroughly modern. The cuffs that I own are dynamic when they fit the right woman Siegelson 115

This page Art Deco square Mystery Clock, designed by Vladimir Kakovsky and manufactured by Georges Verger in Paris for Black, Starr, Frost-Gorham, Inc., circa 1931. 116 estate jewelry

Right The Cole Porter Necklace – an aquamarine and ruby belt necklace designed by Fulco di Verdura for Paul Flato, New York, 1935

Below Lauren Adriana x Siegelson Ring – Type IIb Deep Blue diamond and pavé colored diamonds in a darkened gold setting

the right way. When I first saw them, Michelle Ong was actually wearing them and they were one of the greatest cuff designs ever, so I could not resist having them.

At Masterpiece London Fair in 2014 you presented a pair of ear- rings and a ring made for you by the contemporary British jeweler Lauren Adriana. What prompted the collaboration? After meeting Lauren Adriana, I was drawn to her bold and unique jewels combing brightly colored gemstones in audacious shapes. Her singular aesthetic and remarkable designs are instantly recognizable and the pieces are made to exacting standards. Working with Lauren Adriana to develop these designs demonstrated both her depth of knowledge of the proportions of a great piece, and her attention to how a great piece is constructed. She is a rare find; her pieces will be an important influ- ence on contemporary jewelry and will be sought after by top collectors.

Is there any important Siegelson pieces that you came across by accident and ‘took under your wing’? I came across a wonderful Cartier necklace with engraved emeralds and sapphires in a 1960 catalogue of the sale of Lillian Timken’s jewelry. I was so stunned by this necklace that I set it as the backdrop on my computer. Not longer after a photograph of the necklace came across my desk, I purchased it sight unseen. I had to own it. Siegelson 117

Is this necklace among the three most significant jewels you have at present? Yes, The Timken Necklace by Cartier crafted in 1925 with diamonds, sapphires and most im- portantly Mogul emeralds is a very important piece. I also want to draw your attention to The Cole Porter Necklace – an aquamarine and ruby belt which is an iconic piece designed by Fulco, Duke of Verdura, for Paul Flato circa 1935. An- other one to mention is the aquamarine, diamond and enamel bracelet by Jean Fouquet created for Maison Georges Fouquet in Paris in 1926. It em- bodies the avant-garde spirit of Art Deco design.

You had to have them, because… When I saw each of these pieces in person or in a photograph, I immediately recognized that it was beautiful but also important in the sense that it was a pivotal piece in the history of design. They represent an artistry and consid- eration that rarely exists, they are works of art on par with the finest masterpieces of sculpture and painting.

Would you be sad to see them go to a different owner? Sure. The pieces that I buy and sell are the most beautiful and most refined pieces avail- able on the market. Once I let it go, that’s it. I will probably never see it again. These pieces are held onto tightly by the people and families that own them.

What keeps you from becoming jaded by the wonder of extraordinary jewelry you come across? Each piece is a pleasure to discover. I never get bored hunting for them, buying them, or holding them in my hand.

You have been in this business for 13 years. Have you noticed a change in taste of those who purchase antique jewelry? Coco Chanel said “Fashion fades, style is eter- nal.” The truly desirable and timeless pieces are always valued. 118

118 JEWELS

Photography Stefano Campo Antico Styling Anita Sciacca Washers JEWELS 119119

francesca villa "Easy Living" pendant and earrings, made of rose gold and set with amethyst and antique bone gambling chips. 120 JEWELS Hell-o-tiki JEWELS 121

Left: Above: bohemme tous Sterling silver bracelet and ring 18Kt gold with white, blue, green The "New Basics" collection: black faceted silicone ring, and amethyst CZ from the "Balance Stones Day" collection. onyx necklace and "Vermeil" pendant. 122 JEWELS Hell-o-tiki

wendy yue "Mystic Butterfly" white gold bangle set with opal, tsavorite, tanzanite, ruby and white diamond. Hell-o-tiki JEWELS 123123

bernard delettrez Gold "Stella Marina" ring set with white, yellow, cognac and black diamonds; "Cometa" hand bracelet set with white, grey and black diamonds 124 124 new faces

There is a new stylistic scenario in the jewelry market: highly-talented designers and skillful interpreters of Italian tradition and innovation

Words Federica Frosini The Next Generation is Made in italy 125 125

ots of names, different academic paths and family backgrounds, decisions Spallanzani 1880 regarding style and ways of crafting jewelry. The common denominator is the by Gaia Spallanzani country of origin: Italy. They move stealthily, they don’t demand attention, — Towards the end of the they let themselves be found and love discretion. They are the new faces of a 1970’s Guido Spallanzani, Lgeneration of jewelry designers we are proud of for their stubbornness in the pursuit grandson of the founder Carlo Spallanzani, gave his of objectives which are not always so obvious. Some of the names are already familiar, wife a gold, diamond-studded they are the new generation of traditional jewelry families who have contributed to the bracelet for Valentine’s Day, history of Italian-made jewelry. Others are simply driven by the desire to explore new it contained a coded message: artistic horizons, to free themselves from the traditional, precious world and approach ‘TSTQCA’ - Tu Sei Tutto Quello Che Amo (You Are Everything a more experimental dimension in which jewelry is expressed via innovative techniques I Love) – from the ‘Only You’ and materials. They come from Milan Polytechnic, IED, GIA, IGI and from Central Saint collection. From that moment, Martins in London, each one with their own story, their own passion without a label, the tradition of giving bracelets their own desire to get an idea across to others, a message, a value. And it doesn’t containing the names of one’s children as a birthday present, really matter if it’s always the carats who do the talking. Often it’s enough to see sharp became a real trend which shapes, irreverent volume, a trendy côte, impeccable design, or the perfection of an spread like wildfire all over Italy insect, the purity of a dream, the magic of an enchanted world, the desire to shake off an from Milan. Today, specifically, idea of perfection. From this rich, varied, versatile communicative panorama, we have in 2013, Gaia Spallanzani decided to take charge of the selected a group of designers from fine jewelry, fashion jewelry and jewelry design who, family’s history of style and with extreme elegance, uniqueness and skill, tell the story of the new face of Italian- elegance and focus on the made jewelry. wealth of experience and on new interpretations of this must-have piece. So, the brand’s iconic bracelet is now available in the shape of necklaces, earrings, pendants and rings, all made of gold, diamonds, sapphires, rubies, aquamarine and amethyst. The winning element of this jewelry is that the client can personalise it with an engraved messageewelry.

Federico Primiceri pedigree DNA, a genetic heritage made example of a unique design style, refined by Federico Primiceri up of art, sensitivity, aesthetics, creative in its contemporaneity and craftsmanship, — When one grows up intelligence, passion and the desire to for the quality of the materials, the admiring the jewelry create dreams. In fact inspiration comes passion and devotion to the art of jewelry. masterpieces one’s from a fairytale world where Federico We are in a world where diamonds, rubies, father creates at his finds the beauty of life, a universe teeming emeralds, fancy sapphires, tsavorites, goldsmith’s workbench, it’s with faeries dressed in gold and diamonds white and golden South Sea pearls co- unusual to then embark on a fluttering amongst emerald flowers with exist, often combined with semi-precious completely different path in life. their innate brand of elegance. This is stones such as topaz and amethysts, Indeed, Federico Primiceri is the first to most likely why the necklace from the woven together in a fantastical web which admit that his love for this enchanting ‘Fantasy Travel’ collection is without reflects the creative mood of the designer. world is primarily triggered by his doubt the most iconic and recognisable federicoprimiceri.it 126 126 new faces

Giulia Boccafogli by Giulia Boccafogli — Giulia’s most iconic piece? The Flaminia Barosini by a multitude of rings in Jabot ‘Nero Ingordo’ Flaminia Barosini — There particular, from the iconic necklace from the is bronze, there is leather ‘Baffo’, a woven ring which Forma Seconda and there is enamel. There embraces three fingers and collection and is nature, an endless source comes from the first Second ‘The Crow’ of inspiration and food for Skin collection, to the more necklace thought, and there is the recent rings from the latest from Bodega desire for a piece of jewelry ‘Synapsis’ collection which Bay. The main with character and vitality. cover the entire finger. Her material for her Flaminia Barosini, born in work is often personalised creations? Leather 1987, officially made her and every creation takes of course, but generally debut in 2014, even though on unique meaning based speaking, her tireless pursuit brief flashes of her talent on the extremely individual of the purity of materials. Her were glimpsed in 2007, when vision of the person who is inspiration? Intensely personal she started a jewelry design buying it. federicoprimiceri.it but rationalised in order to be course at IED and, later, she properly communicated. Giulia revealed more of her gift Boccafogli, architect, quietly for jewelry when she left entered the jewelry world the famous Central Saint in 2012, not so much with Martins in 2012. Femininity seasonal collections as with and craftsmanship are a more ‘emotional’ collections, duo from which Flaminia triggered by strongly-felt never separates herself. inspiration in which the This winning combination concept of a virtual journey, leads to the creation of perceived as a real, physical change, puts down roots. Colours, sounds, culture, film, music, the history of costume. Several players interact within Giulia’s material world together with a strong design component and the pursuit of shape and structure, they work Marta Paolillo by Marta Paolillo — together so as to communicate Every day Marta Paolillo’s hands are adorned the real aim of the project. A by ten gold and diamond rings, one on project which lies somewhere each finger, made of gold and diamonds. between fashion and design, She can’t help it, it may be because Marta but reflects a desire for grew up surrounded by diamonds and craftsmanship and an intense precious stones, in a family for whom passion for ornamentation. jewelry is an everyday object. But saying giuliaboccafogli.it that she’s a jewelry designer doesn’t quite The Next Generation is Made in italy 127 127

mvp by Maria Vittoria Paolillo — The aesthetic Maria Vittoria Paolillo deliberately looked for in order to distinguish herself and emancipate herself from the image of her famous family was young, irreverent, slightly playful and often provocative. Although the mood is clearly very different, her origins helped to create fertile ground for Maria Vittoria who, since childhood has been fascinated by the way her grandfather talks about the jewelry world. She began studying gemology and her desire to create a strong brand with personality was officially launched in 2013. Her collections are always extremely forward-looking , and the materials are always silver and bronze but adorned with diamonds, pearls or enamels. Clean, precise lines are a must, she prefers geometric shapes and symmetry. A futuristic journey which is best expressed via ring sets worn on all five fingers, this ‘cage’ ring is an important achievement for Maria Vittoria. This piece defines her style and communicates a feeling of creative freedom which never loses sight of the value of traditional craftsmanship found in the meticulous attention to detail and tireless pursuit of the finest raw materials. mariavittoriapaolillo.com

cover it, it’s more a question of the past few years now she has been blooded nature, all her pieces feature an her being representative of a expertly rafting jewelry, thanks element, sometimes graphic, which echoes new generation of fine jewelry to her openness towards this world. For Marta this means jewelry of whom Italian production materials such as titanium which wraps itself around wrists, caresses should be proud. Marta and shagreen. Completely fingers, embraces necks, sensuous rings, Paolillo immediately managed under the spell of snakes bracelets, earrings and necklaces, soft and to identify her signature for their excellent predatory eclectic, just like her muse. martapaolillo.com/ symbol from amongst her skills, creatures who confuse and finejewellery genetic heritage – the snake. For contrast with our emotional, warm- 128 128 new faces

Giuliana Mancinelli Bonafaccia by Giuliana Mancinelli Bonafaccia — These collections are composed of lots of details which, translated into geometry, provide a starting point from which Giuliana Mancinelli Bonafaccia constructs and develops her jewelry. Her jewelry has a strong fashion connotation, within a stylistic balance which favours colour, volume, well-defined decorative elements and skilfully-designed shapes. Multicoloured perspex cuffs, fringed pendents, plastron rings and necklaces stand out. Favoured materials include Swarovski crystals, rose gold and green electroplated brass, palladium, black rutenio and clear perspex, which undergoes a colouring process to make it look like a precious stone with similar radiance and transparency effects. One distinctly fashion-oriented piece of jewelry which stands out for its geometric shape, lines and use of colour is part of the latest collection, called ‘Immigrant Song’, in fact, its details are almost sartorial in their precision and the volumes are perfectly balanced. giulianamancinelli.com/

Anna Maga Visconti by Anna Maga Visconti — She attended IGI, completed a degree in Jewelry Design at IED, trained with the creative team at Giorgio Galli & Timex Group and created jewelry for Maison Versace. It was here that she got the idea of making her own way in jewelry design and identify a stylistic method that could have materials such as gold, salt and added value, independently of coral, in fact both the Morcego the artistic prestige of design. ring and Alma necklace are Anna found this in inspiration considered to be particularly provided by the representative of this landscape and within message. Above the principles all, Alma creates of Eastern a traît-d’union philosophy, in the with the other study of natural pieces because elements whose she comes up with magical, holistic a contemporary properties facilitate reworking of the a feeling of well-being idea of the scapular, and balance between mind very common in the Brazilian and body. This led to choosing culture as a promise of devotion stones according to their magical in exchange for protection. power, which store energy and Anna has reinterpreted it as a help us utilize it. And so, her necklace to be worn on one’s jewelry combines hyper-energy back. annamagavisconti.com The Next Generation is Made in italy 129 129

Leek Handmade The collection is Although the pieces are Jewellery by entirely composed of large-scale and have a Francesca Porro — It all industrial synthetic bold colour /material started with Francesca twine, produced in Italy, impact, they are still Porro’s love of hand this material is minimal extremely wearable. weaving. A passion and pared-down. A From amongst all the which, following her multitude of knots form pieces, the Medusa completion of a degree necklaces, bracelets and medallion with its in Philosophy in 2001, knots, there is a strong labyrinth of twisted led to her embarking contrast between twine, is certainly the on a career in carpet different textures, most iconic, while the restoration under the weaves, shapes and designer herself prefers guidance of an Iranian sizes. These incredibly to wear the Seinodi master restorer. Once lightweight pieces of necklace. She says it’s she had mastered jewelry are entirely an easy way to carry her the secrets of classic made by hand, by passion around with her. Persian and Turkish means of a reworked leekjewellery.com weaving, a few years crochet technique and later Francesca decided traditional knotting. to ‘exploit’ those secrets learned from her first love of tout court weaving, and launch her Leek Handmade Jewellery project in 2013.

Pi. Jewellery by Veronica Calcagno — Voluminous, linear, clean lines, geometric, material-oriented, imperfect, no frills. Veronica Calcagno’s jewelry doesn’t really need explaining, it reflects the sunny nature and vibrant Energy of the designer herself who, with her eclectic approach to the world of jewelry design, creates tiny ready-to-wear sculptures. As a lover of classical studies, Veronica decided to pursue her passionate interest in Greek mythology and symbolism by taking it to a creative level. She studied gemology at the GIA in Vicenza and started working in a goldsmith’s workshop to gain experience. Today, Veronica is an intuitive, talented interpreter from the new generation of jewelry designers. She combines art and technique and works with intensity on the surface of gold and silver, and strengthens the balance between shape, proportion and volume. Everything is entirely made by hand within a reprocessing of concepts, symbols, metaphors and values which find their maximum stylistic expression within the Cristallo Cubico, Seed, Gwenn, Parapendio, Cajù, Karshvar and Balance collections. pijewellery.com 130 130 new faces

Vanessa Pederzani Co.Ro. by Costanza De Cecco and Giulia by Vanessa Pederzani — A Giannini — Young, Roman and architects. knowledgeable, astute voice These three essential ingredients are from the third generation of the required in order to fully understand the Pederzani family, an historical work of this talented duo of architects, who name within Milanese high have just entered the world of jewelry jewelry. Vanessa only began the whole phalanx, for Vanessa design with their passionate work flexing her artistic muscles it is her most iconic touch. This and intense artistic study. within the world of contemporary jewelry is designed to be worn The brand itself, Co.Ro., is jewelry in October 2013. It should day or night, just what a Dark indicative of the style and idea also be noted that at the tender Lady might wear, but they are all Giulia and Costanza intend age of six she was already melting small pieces, delicate miniatures, to pursue: prêt-à-porter gold in the workshop alongside never loud, always extremely architecture, ready-to-wear her father and grandfather, feminine and sensual, despite architecture. Yes, because all initially for fun and later with a the abundance of bats and it takes is one question about passion that has been handed scorpions to represent corsets which is the most iconic piece of down through the and bows. However, a certain the collection and we are whisked away generations and style must be adhered to the banks of the River Tiber and that culminates to: only gold and white 90-metre tall 1950’s building which inspired in a playful, and black diamonds, their best-selling cuff and echoes its lines irreverent only precious stones, and proportions, ‘Gasometro’ bracelet. collection and sometimes a A world of geometry and architecture, despite the fact little humour is that it is made provided bt coloured entirely of gold electroplating which and diamonds: provides an original the Romantic Affair twist and lifts the collection. A super- rigorousness of the canons of precious imaginary corset covers preciousness. vanessapederzani.com

SAROJ by Valentina Bruzzi — The Saroj brand was pieces totally represent Valentina’s style. In her first launched by Valentina Bruzzi in 2013, with the aim of approach she avoided using silver and stones. The bare sharing that vision of elegance, simplicity and innovation essentials win in this micro world and involves paring to be found in her imagination and in her creations. down, removing all that is superfluous, it is therefore Driven by a constant desire to develop and grow, synonymous with design where nothing is left to chance. Valentina decided to hone her technical and design skills A must-have piece of jewelry? The ‘Origami’ midi ring by choosing innovative technology and always seeking and the ‘Elisabeth’ collar-necklace, extremely fine but out anything connected to experimentation. Her new beautifully distinct, the absolute crowning glory of the laser-cut jewelry collection and the 3D-printed nylon collection. saroj.it 131 131

Opposite Jewels by Antonello Malfa — Antonello Malfa’s artisanal expression of jewelry comes from water, from osmosis between the liquid reprocessed and interpreted using bronze, shapes and the material. silver, natural freshwater pearls and semi- To be precise, from a shell precious stones as well as different coloured picked up on the shoreline gold electroplating – yellow, pink and black. of the beach in 2001. But Co.Ro’s design is clean and captivating, since that day and up to it always carries a message or a hint of the present, Antonello’s something, a memory, the real challenge is to path in life has gone create exciting, evocative micro-sculptures.. in different directions. corojewels.com Today he has decided to give his collection are a very specific name. He called it Opposite, thus referring to a definite concept, the desire to go against traditional jewelry-making and speak up for idealism via the crafting of tiny sculptures to adorn hands, mainly. For Antonello, the very essence of jewelry comes from the solidification in space and time of precious resin coagulated in the radiance of gems and metal. This resin is modelled and combined with gold dust to create a totally new material called ‘orite’, and then juxtaposed with stones with a strong personality such as lapis lazuli, malachite, obsidian, adularia, tourmaline and topaz. The shapes are very organic, slightly imperfect, almost metaphysical, the large volumes can generally be seen in the rings which despite being boldly over-sized are incredibly lightweight. oppositejewels.com

[Left: ph. © Ivan Serafino] 132 DIARY VICENZAORO Dubai

Four days to go down in history VICENZAORO Dubai conquers the transversal favor of exhibitors, buyers, visitors, institutions and partners: for the international gold and jewelry community, it is the new event to mark off on the calendar. Words Arianna L. B. Pinton

itnessing a historical moment is truly excit- arranged over 12,000 m² of exhibition space. ing. And this is what could be seen in the eyes of fellow A new trade fair event that perfectly fits into the international cal- attending journalists and above all in the emotional looks endar and, above all, the global geographical map, by being located in of all those - traders, exhibitors, buyers - who rose to the the heart of the main hub between West and East, ideal for reaching the Wchallenge and took part in VICENZAORO Dubai’s grand debut. Let’s talk United Arab Emirates, Africa, the great Mother India and - what’s more, about a few numbers: in 4 days, the new jewelry Super Show - a spot- close to China. In Dubai, four intense days of appointments - seminars, on definition! - gathered together over 500 Brands from 25 countries, business meetings and exclusive events - to savor the first tastes of a throwing open the doors of a futuristic Dubai Trade World Center to different, and in many ways also distant, culture - but not that distant! 6,000 trade visitors from 110 different nations. The exhibition layout - and to get to know an essential part of the puzzle that makes up this was subdivided into four categories: Global Brands, Fine Jewellery & immense and rich opportunity, to understand it and find a way to satisfy National Pavilions, Gemstones & Diamonds and Packaging & Supply the growing and highly demanding Arabian clientele. DIARY 133

Day 0 8 pm – Le Vian event night. Wednesday 22nd April 2015 A blaze of lights, colors, live music and precious It is the ‘day before’, when the last preparations are stones in the magnificent Burj Al Arab Hotel, one of feverishly done and time is never enough: everyone is the most famous in Dubai. Organized by Le Vian, the rushing to finish the fittings, check that the spotlights American brand that ‘is loved by the people we love’, shine as they should, that the Wi-Fi works as well as the latest sparkling jewelry collections, the famous at the NASA, that the security system are Arsène shoes created in collaboration with Stewart Weitzman Lupin-proof. It is the day when you can poke your nose and the new precious bags, were all on show. around the pavilions, smell the air of the new premises, shake the hands of the entrepreneurs who had faith in this project which took two years of hard work to materialize. Two large and well-structured entrances, wide and orderly aisles, white and minimal stands, with the exception of the Bedouin tent, a tribute to the Arabian culture from Roberto Coin - spacious lounges for events, a coffee or mint tea, and all those spaces that make the difference between a premier league and a second division show: special apps, free Wi-Fi, quick and accurate checks, impeccable rest rooms, press room, media village, conference room. 134 DIARY VICENZAORO Dubai

Day 1 dent of DV Global Link and Thursday, 23rd April 2015 Managing Director of Fiera di Vicenza, Emanuele Guido, For those who love comfort, the Dubai Trade World General Manager of DV Center - within easy reach on the subway or by taxi (a Global Link. VICENZAORO ride costs very little!) - stands in the center of a huge Dubai partners also contrib- square overlooked by hotels and first class bars and uted : Ahmed Bin Sulayem, restaurants in which to try delicacies, sip on a coffee Executive Chairman of Dubai or simply relax before and after a day at the fair. The Multi Commodities Centre climate in April is perfect for those who love dry heat: 30 (DMCC), Tawhid Abdullah, degrees, but with a constant breeze and air conditioning President of Dubai Gold and Jewellery Group (DGJG), reigns everywhere. Pankaj Parekh, Vice President of the Gem Jewellery Ex- port Promotion Council (GJEPC). Right: 10.30 am Models parading The cutting of the in the latest collections at ribbon saw the Le Vian Fashion Show exceptional attend- Below, from the ance of His High- centre to the right: ness Sheik Hasher His Highness Sheikh Hasher Bin Maktoum Bin Maktoum Al Al Maktoum, Director Maktoum, Direc- General of Dubai’s tor General of the Department of Information; Mr Matteo Marzotto, Dubai Department President Fiera di Vicenza; of Information, who, His Excellency Helal Saeed together with top Almarri, Director General, Department of Tourism management from Fiera di Vicenza, the DWTC and DV & Commerce Marketing Global Link, then toured the pavilions, shaking the hands (DTCM) and CEO. of some top exhibitors, like Roberto Coin, the De Simone 5 pm Le Vian Fashion Show. In the VOD welcome brothers, Azzurra and Cesare Rinaldi. ) lounge, the catwalk with jewelry worn by models parad- ing the latest collections which included jewelry, footwear and bags.

8 pm Inauguration of The Italian Beauty, the first event organized by DV Global Link in the prestigious hall at the Conrad Hilton Hotel. An exhibition of the extraor- dinary variety and beauty of Italian jewelry staged with the collaboration of the Ministry for Economic Develop- ment, ICE (the agency for the promotion and internation- alization of Italian companies abroad) and VICENZAORO Dubai and curated by Alba Cappellieri, professor at Milan Polytechnic and Director of the Vicenza Jewelry Museum. The selection of 30 necklaces produced by prestigious Italian companies and dedicated to woman, left the enthusiasts gaping: from valuable corals to gold, from diamond pavé to ebony, from precious stones to silver. Because the fantasy of Italian designers knows no limits!

11 am - official presentation ofL ’Azurde, a market Day 2 leading Saudi Arabian company for jewelry distribution in Friday, 24th the MENA area (Middle East and Nord Africa), a strategic April 2015 Right: partner of VICENZAORO Dubai together with GJEPC Giorgio India. Starace, Italian 11.30 am Ambassador Are diamonds for UAE 11.30 am - a new era for jewelry. In the confer- and Matteo forever? Seminar ence room, in front of an audience of journalists from 5 Marzotto, organized by GIA continents, the official VICENZAORO Dubai presen- President Fiera (Gemological Insti- di Vicenza tation with interventions from Ahmed Al Khaja, Senior tute of America) in Vice President of Venues at DWTC, Matteo Marzotto, the VOD conference President of Fiera di Vicenza, Corrado Facco, Vice Presi- room. 135

tunnel at the aquarium to ‘dive’ among fish and sharks, or ice-skating (!), or watching the danc- ing fountains, a unique open-air attraction which brings the mall’s artificial lake to life every evening.

Day 3 Saturday, 25th April 2015 2.30 pm Trendvision Jewellery + Forecasting took to the stage. With 3 pm – seminar organized by SGL (Solitaire Gemo- her usual verve, Paola De Luca, the Cre- logical Laboratories). ative Director, presented the ‘Product Directions update 2015-16’, an overview 7 pm Indian Evening. Evening organized by the that identifies the key market trends, GJEPC (Gem Jewellery Export Promotion Council) and fundamental for designers who keep VOD where guest buyers gathered in a hall in the famous an attentive eye on jewelry evolutions, Jumeirah Beach Hotel. On stage, an amusing show aimed with focus on materials, textures and at bringing together exponents from different cultures: patterns. In addition, and on display all Arabians, Indians, Pakistanis, Europeans, Americans. The around the Trend Area, the main trends buffet dinner was a hit with Indian and oriental special- in the gold and jewelry sector identified ties that won over the tastes of even the most skeptical. by the Observatory. Day 4 5 pm World Diamond Mark Fashion Show. Sunday, 26th April 2015 Spotlights on the diamond-studded jewelry of the parade From top: that roused so much enthusiasm among the Arabian The exhibition “The Last day and time to take accounts. Matteo Marzotto, audience. Models in geometric dresses flaunted matching Italian Beauty” and President of Fiera di Vicenza, said: “A winning bet for jewelry of enviable brilliance and sparkle. TheTrend Area at Fiera di Vicenza, which has always considered the Dubai Trendvision Jewellery + Forecasting. operation as highly strategic for internationalization, 8 pm – Dubai Mall Experience. Let it be said: there particularly for Italian gold and jewelry - a sector whose is nothing in the world as big as the Dubai Mall. And it is In these pages, jewels from primary export destination is the United Arab Emirates.” the same exhibition: true, after having trekked through hundreds of stores on Annamaria Cammilli Corrado Facco, Vice President of DV Global Link and three floors, got lost among the high-jewelry boutiques (top right), Comete Gioielli (below), Managing Director of Fiera di Vicenza, highlighted: “This and candy stores, looked at the windows of the coolest in- Margherita Burgener is a strategic operation for Fiera di Vicenza and the gold (opening spread). ternational brands, sipped whatever specialty takes your and jewelry industry on an international scale, above all fancy and taken selfies among people from every corner for the Event’s ability to connect global producers with of the world, a ‘break’ seems only fair. Or rather, a ride the emerging demand in the Middle and Far East, and to up to the top of the Burj Khalifa - the tallest man-made launch itself towards Africa. This first edition is therefore construction in the world - or a walk through the glass only the prologue, we hope, of a wonderful success story.” 136

Anatomy of a Red Carpet There are plenty of reasons why certain jewelry brands are popular with celebrities and why these brands often appear at red carpet events throughout the world. Words Anthony De Marco 137 137 LIFESTYLE

ame recognition and having an iconic history are certainly factors. Names like Cartier, Bulgari and Tiffany have instant ap- peal in the luxury and fashion world. Money also plays an important Nrole. The biggest international companies with the deepest pockets will often pay celebrities to wear their jewelry. Many brands will hire ambassadors to promote their brands around the world. However, even without a great amount of money or international name recognition, many jewelers are still able to get their pieces on “A-list” celebrities. They do this in a number of ways. Some celebrities are attracted to the brand and will wear it at public events. For example, actress Julia Roberts started wear- ing pieces by Me & Ro because she liked the work of the New York-based jeweler, which specializes in hand-made gold and silver pieces. Some jewelers are even personal friends of celebrities who will wear their pieces. However, for most the way to get their jew- els onto celebrities is to use firms that special- ize at this work. These firms have relationships not only with celebrities, but their personal stylists, agents and others who often make the decisions on what their clients wear.

Ginnina D’Orazio, president and founder of D’Orazio & Associates in Los Angeles, works with many celebrities, including Angelina Jolie, Jennifer Lawrence, Taylor Swift, Halle Berry and Katy Perry. She says celebrity placement has the potential to bring immediate public awareness to a jewelry brand. “Aligning a product with a celebrity creates very high levels of brand awareness in a very short space of time,” D’Orazio says. “One red carpet placement can make an impact on a truly global scale, at a fraction of what it would cost to reach the same audience through advertising.” There are many reasons why celebrities are drawn to specific pieces, she says. “Each celebrity has their own sense of style. Some are driven more by the shape and structure of the piece, others by the gemstones themselves,” she says. “What we do see in common is an attraction to jewelry that is creative and artistic, a piece that has been a labor of love by the jeweler that created it.” 138 lifestyle

D’Orazio says that the time and effort it takes to get a strong celebrity placement varies. “Some celebrities try on a few pieces, borrow what they like, and wear them on red carpet. For others it’s a process of several fittings with their stylist to get the look right and this process can often include their publicists and business managers as well.” There are some stars that are very support- ive of independent jewelry designers. Modern fashion icons such as Jennifer Lopez (who works with D’Orazio) and Rihanna are often seeing in public wearing jewelry from several brands.

Carrera y Carrera Svetlana Kuprianova is CEO of the Spanish com- understand what the brand is about and they pany that specializes in hand-crafted gold jewelry respond to it. that the company refers to as mini-sculptures. “Our brand can be considered lucky,” she “All the pieces are designed and created says. “Celebrities love our jewelry and, of course, in our workshop situated in Madrid, those are this love is mutual. We believe that the secret masterpieces of the jewelry with an authentic of attraction is easy: once you fall in love with essence,” she says. “Carrera y Carrera is one of a jewelry piece, you can´t separate from it. It the brands one can easily recognize thanks to becomes your amulet and forms part of your its unique and daring design, full of character style and form of being.” and passion.” Kuprianova says women who wear Carrera y The jewelry brand has a large, international Carrera take risks and appreciates art. celebrity following that includes Madonna, Pe- “She´s a vivid and daring lady, with strong nelope Cruz, Jennifer Lopez, Mila Jovovich and personality and sophisticated style,” she said.

Dita von Teese. Kuprianova says famous people “She is self-sufficient and likes being different.” © Getty Images Anatomy of a red-carpet 139

Chimento in the market, the constant job of promoting Federica Chimento, president of the family owned and creating appealing and consistent collec- company, says the brand’s Italian heritage and tions becomes one of our main goals. Keeping the “perfectly achieved complexity” of its gold our identity clear and consistent in every piece and gem-set pieces allow the jeweler to sparkle and in every communication and promotional a little brighter than their rivals. effort requires great effort and professionalism.” She says celebrity endorsements are very The craft of creating jewelry that is simple important to the brand for a number of reasons. and versatile is what keeps the brand fashion- “One of those reasons is that it is helping us able, Federica says. to build trust with current and potential cus- “Each collection has the capability to adapt tomers,” she says. “Having a celebrity choosing and turn easily in a fashion detail that comple- Chimento has helped our brand to increase the ments different looks,” she says. “Our jewels consumer’s desire. This has been achieved entic- become the elegant and essential fashion detail ing celebrities with unique designs and styles. for different occasions.” Obviously, due to the number of jewelry brands Women most attracted to Chimento are those who “love contemporary design, classic style and want the thrill of wearing a precious jewel every day,” she says. “Our products are designed and created for the elegant and discerning client, who appreci- Le Vian ates the high quality of our products.” Eddie Levian, CEO of the contem- porary jewelry company that has a history that dates back to at least 18th Century Persia, describes ce- lebrities as “today’s royalty.” Jen- nifer Lopez, Taylor Swift, Charlize Theron and Nicole Kidman are among the celebrities who have worn the brand’s jewelry. “Le Vian doesn’t pay nor does it gift celebri- ties to wear its designs,” he says. “Celebrities choose to wear particular pieces, most of which do not feature the biggest diamonds. I think this is a testimony to the originality and uniqueness of the brand that hundreds of times every year an ‘A-List’ celebrity is photographed wearing Le Vian and that many of them wear it multiple times a year on the red carpet. Many women fol- low the trends which celebrities are wearing and Le Vian uses its relationship with celebrities to test its fountain of innovation and get a read of what tomorrow’s trends will be.” The company produces about 40,000 new designs per year and has trademarked many diamond and gold colors. Because of this reasons for becoming loyal to the jewelry differs greatly, whether they are celebrities or consumers. “Le Vian designs fill this desire for individual- ity,” he says. “Many times it is color that draws a person to a particular design. Le Vian is the master of color and fans of Le Vian designs ap- preciate our unique color combinations.” The brand’s use of color and design variety are among the reason the jewelry is considered fashion- able, he says. “Le Vian is at the forefront of forecasting and creating the design and color trends, not only for jewelry, but now for lifestyle. As such, Le Vian is in

© Getty Images a unique position of being an arbiter of fashion.” 140 FINANCE Luxury Market 141 141

JEWELRY, DESTINATION USA In the USA, jewelry represents a sector of Italian excellence thanks to the elegance, creativity and originality of products with their roots in a centuries-old tradition of craftsmanship, which successfully conjugates extraordinary expertise in technical, style, material and design innovation ·

Curated by Sonia Sbolzani, Responsible for Communication & Organization at the National Federation of Precious Stones (Federpietre). Illustrated by Francesco Poroli in Milan.

the wait for Quantitative Easing, accounted for 35% of our exports, while today it called for by the president of ECB Mario has reduced to around 10%. Yet, the USA remains IN Draghi, to unfold its beneficial effects a firm target for goldsmith companies. Chiefly be- on the economy of the Old Continent, a positive mo- cause today American big spenders, in full recovery, ment for our jewelry export has unfolded with the are once more a privileged consumer segment for weakening of the euro against the dollar, in addition our companies, whose jewels they find highly ap- to less volatility in prices of raw materials and the pealing. In addition to this, new consumers of the first glimmers of light at the end of the tunnel of Millennial Generation are very sensitive to the ap- the economic crisis. The United States has always peal of jewelry. Moreover, large opportunities loom been the main importer of Italian jewelry, though for goldsmith companies arising from EU-US TTIP in recent years, due to the strengthening of the (Transatlantic Trade Investiment Partnership) in an European currency and the financial collapse, it advanced stage of negotiation, which should bring has been undermined by the United Arab Emirates. much longed for zero duties and customs barriers Until the beginning of the 2000s, the US market between the two sides of the Atlantic. 142 FINANCE

Long Term Demand. The main factors which positively influence long-term demand for jewelry in the US market

Wedding jewelry The cycle of life With the Millennial (Generation Y) baby boom which Along with more weddings, there will be a greater chance began in the late 1980s, the number of Americans who to celebrate anniversaries and births, as well as gradua- will get married every year for the next five years could tions, Bar / Bat Mitzvah, communions, confirmations, etc.. increase significantly, by as much as 2.9 million in 2106 celebrated with the gift of jewelry or a watch. or 2017. Wedding related items account for 40% of a The Trend: Consumers between 30 and 40 years of age jewelry store’s annual sales. spend much more on jewelry than their predecessors.

Declining divorce rate Population The divorce rate in the US is falling slightly, however, the Between 2010 and 2050, according to the US Census Bu- following trends may be apparent: 1. “second diamond for reau, the American population will grow from 310 million the same wife”; 2. purchases of jewelry to celebrate the to 440 million (+ 42%). The vitality of the US demographic renewal of wedding vows; 3. purchases of jewelry for an- population will continue to support rising incomes, with niversaries, since couples remain married longer; 4. due to higher levels of discretionary spending, contrary to what fewer divorces, less income will go on maintenance (food is expected to occur in some European countries and in etc) resulting in more disposable income for luxury goods. China. Luxury Market 143

Statistics day. Young consumers (especially ing of financial transactions set According to the economic women, ever more autonomous) by President Obama (the Dodd- report of the Italian Goldsmiths’ are buying increasing quantities Frank Act), which in January 2013 Club prepared by the Directorate of jewelry; consumers are looking stated, among other requirements of Studies and Research at Intesa for original, trendy creations, turn- for US export companies, to track Sanpaolo, in 2015 the United States ing also to metals other than gold the origin and use of raw materials, is destined to play a crucial leading which are less expensive; discount in order to demonstrate that its role in the gold sector. Already last stores, wholesalers and retailers procurement is conflict-free i.e. year, between January and Octo- offering perceived value are gain- not financing armed groups in the ber, the share of US imports from ing a market share; online sales Democratic Republic of Congo and Italy rose by 7%, more than that of are on the up, while the traditional neighboring areas (an area that India and China, reflecting an im- jeweler is losing ground; weddings represents only 0.6% of the gold provement in Italian competitive- and events related to the ‘cycle mined in the world). This section ness. Nevertheless, expectations of life’ are driving demand, while of the legislation (Conflict Miner- remain cautious regarding the US. annual celebrations are losing im- als) also includes tin, tungsten According to figures processed by portance. and tantalum in addition to gold. Confindustria Federorafi in 2012, In the US market growing concerns the US is the third largest market Concerns about the impact of production for Italian exports (behind Swit- As previously mentioned, the on the environment, animal and zerland and UAE), with a share of gold sector suffers today in re- plant species and human rights are 9% of the total. In 2013, accord- gards to the US market due to growing stronger and becoming ing to ISTAT the US accounted the lack of reciprocity in terms more tangible from generation to for 8.5% of Italian jewelry export of both customs procedures and generation. (for a value of 512.9 million euro), tariff rates (the United States im- preceded by the UAE with 20.7% poses a duty of 5.8% on products and Switzerland with 19%. A study from the EU, while the EU imposes by the Jewelry Industry Research 2.5% on goods from America). Also Institute clarifies exactly who the worth mentioning is the heavy im- American buyer of jewelry is to- pact of strict rules on the monitor-

Increase in women Rising consumer income who shop autonomously By the end of 2015 it is expected that 25% of US households In the US the proportion of women in the workforce ac- will have an annual income of $100,000 or more. High- counts for almost 60% of the female population (in 1970 income families spend up to 15 times more for jewelry. it was 45%). In addition, the salary gap between that of Shopping is the favorite pastime of Americans: every men and women is fast disappearing. By 2050, there will time they achieve success, they gratify themselves with be 60 million more women in the United States, repre- a purchase. senting a potential. 144 144

The Light of Knowledge

by Carlotta de Bevilacqua

I like to associate my work with “ Leonardo Da Vinci, who built the canals in Milan in order to bring provisions to the people, and, at the same time, he was able to paint a masterpiece like the Mona Lisa. Leonardo developed his ideas by following science through controlled optics, mechanics and thermics and then Humanism, which, in the case of my work, constitutes knowing how to make glass, which I want to defend strongly. Knowing how to build the future by respecting the past; this is the source of Italian talent. Light is a necessary element in our lives. It is not a decoration, Without it, we would be without food. Humanism and science are our talent, our beauty, our knowing how to make culture, not only by educating the world towards a better life but also by giving it emotions and not the other way round. Firstly we must always have an idea and values. Behind any great architect or designer, there has always been the desire to improve life. Great masterpieces have always been a synthesis of study, technique and vision, as well as talent, obviously.”

Carlotta de Bevilacqua Architect, designer, entrepreneur and teacher, is one of the leading players in contemporary design. Until 2004, Carlotta de Bevilacqua was the Managing Director for the Artemide Group’s Brand Strategy & Development sector while since 2004, she has been a member of the company’s Board of Directors. This page: ‘Spectral Light’ by Philippe Rahm for Artemide