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02. Fairs and Festivals

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02. Fairs and Festivals 02. fairs and festivals 02. fairs and festivals A rich cultural agenda celebrated by the entire country the entire by agenda celebrated A rich cultural Colombia: a must-see destination Colombia: 02 09 Contents Page 4 Carnival of Barranquilla The Golden gate is covered in colors Text by Paul Brito Photography by Harold Lozada Page 10 Traditional Hairstyles and Drums The Afro culture celebrates its traditions Text by Javier Ortiz Cassiani Photography by Ximena Vásquez Page 18 Other Fairs and Festivals in Colombia Introduction 02 Fairs, Festivals and Carnivals Colombia celebrates its cultural richness and diverse Our country is the scenery of major literary identity all throughout its territory. The country’s events such as the Bogota International Book Fair cultural agenda is full of activities that have been (FILBo) and the versions of the Hay Festival in held year after year for decades to the point of beco- Cartagena, Medellin and Jerico. The Medellin Book ming unique traditions, and also creates new events and Culture Festival, the Libraq Fair in Barranqui- as a response to the search of different audiences. lla and the International Book Fair in Cali, among Carnivals such as the Carnival of Barranquilla others, are the showcase for the national publishing (Atlantic Coast), the Riosucio Carnival (Caldas, in the industry, for literature and for the most enriching Coffee Trail) and the Black and White Carnival (Pasto, conversations.Screens all over the country display a in south-western Colombia) bring together traditio- plethora of new Colombian films, and a diverse cura- nal costumes, floats, masks, music and dances from torship fills programs with event cycles and festivals. each region to put traditions into life in festive spaces. The first of these events in the continent started in Alternative events for younger audiences like Estereo Cartagena: such the Cartagena de Indias Internatio- Picnic, explore new sounds. nal Film Festival, FICCI, has paved the way for similar Colombia is music, color, dance and joy. But the events throughout the country. country’s culture also manifests itself in other artistic Colombia’s international prestige as one of the expressions: literature, film, theater, and visual arts happiest countries in the world is experienced daily mobilize large audiences and draw upon its full in all four corners of the country. This celebratory spi- cultural infrastructure. rit unites us as a nation and opens the doors of our homes to visitors from all over the world. introduction – 03 Carnival of Atlantic coast The Golden Gate is Covered in ColorsBarranquilla “He who lives it, enjoys it”, call the people of Barranquilla year after year during the celebrations. This simple phrase contains a joyful truth: it is only possible to understand the experience of the Carnival by immersing oneself in this thriving Caribbean city and personally sample the cumbia, floats, masks and colors that flood the streets. Text: Paul Brito Photos: Harold Lozada 04 – ferias y fiestas Carnival of The Golden Gate is Covered in ColorsBarranquilla 02 Fairs, festivals and carnivals xxxxxxxxx – 05 The Carnival of Barranquilla is always experienced as fusion between the Magdalena and the Caribbean Sea if it were the first time: locals turn into tourists every in voluptuous Bocas de Ceniza; the salty environment year during the season in which everything traditio- meets the gaita (an instrument of indigenous origin, nal becomes surprising in the eyes of foreigners and made of the stem of a cactus) and the tambora (an Afro locals alike. A complete experience for the senses: instrument made from the heart of the ceiba tree). The an explosion of color on the bodies that overflow the fist is tragic, melancholic and sweet. The latter is epic, crowded streets, a lunge of cumbia that enters the joyful and bombastic. The body becomes a the seam ears and runs through the body until the feet start between the two. The Cumbia Wheel in Barrio Abajo dancing, a smell of sweat, sea and river flowing from and the and Tambó Night in the Peace Square are also the Magdalena bordering an entire thriving, open to huge performances which rescue the deepest roots of the world and immensely festive city. the Caribbean festivities and folklore. The traditional costumes and masks are a central But at times it would seem as though the Car- element in this carnival that has been taking place in nival doesn’t need special events or venues. It’s just February, just before Ash Wednesday, every year for one big parade, a single river flowing into the streets, over a century in the main city of the Colombian Cari- neighborhoods, corners, shops, hotels, houses, cour- bbean coast. Costumes play with the ability to dissolve tyards. “He who lives it, enjoys it”, preaches one of identities and make everyone equal, while transfor- the Carnival’s sayings. The city is transformed into a ming people into someone different, distant from huge stage in which everyone is the creator and artist everyday life an immerse in a sort of musical trance. of their own joy, of their own transformation into Hundreds of traditional costumes (like the someone else. No one is a stranger to others, no one mocking marimonda, the intimidating garabato and is a stranger to you, not even the one with the most the colorful congos), choreographies, cumbiambas, eccentric costume. Cumbia is heard about everywhere comparsas and huge floats adorned with outlandish as a living cult, sensual and melancholic cram into to fantasy tour tirelessly several kilometers under the life and it’s natural limitations, so it invites us to com- burning sun. The Barranquilla Carnival is several car- press in those short few days of vital rapture the indivi- nivals at once and tours through multiple and varied sible divinity of which Borges spoke about. And that’s areas of Barranquilla in parades such as the 44th Street why the streets are closed off for these human currents Carnival, The Flower Battle at the Cumbiodromo on to form bends of happiness and ecstasy. “I loved you 40th Street, the King Momo Parade on 17th Street, the deliriously and with unrestrained passion” says the Grand Parade of Tradition and Folklore and the Grand famous song “te olvidé” (“I Forgot You”), considered Parade of Comparsas. Visitors don’t just stand and the anthem of the Barranquilla Carnival. watch, they interact with the dancers and jesters, dan- Almost all of the tradicional dances in the Carni- cing and joking with them and the crowd; everything val allude to the condensation of happiness in the side- fuses in an immense performance to the sound of gai- lines of life and delirium. The Congo is one of the most tas and drums. In recent years, other initiatives have vivid costumes because of its humongous turban cove- emerged and pushed the city towards rescuing tra- red in artificial flowers, adorned with ribbons, lace and ditions in search of new cultural proposals. That is mirrors, with a long ribbon reaching almost to the cha- the case of the Carnavalada, which will celebrate its racter’s heels. It is, too, one of the oldest. The costume 19th anniversary in 2020. During the first part of the originates from the Congo in Africa and came to be evening, people sit and watch plays, dances and cir- known in Colombia through the Black African Cabil- cus-like performances. The party is on in a crescendo dos that were held in Cartagena de Indias. Supported of emotion as people start as spectators and end up as by big totemic representations: bulls, donkeys, tigers, active characters, turning on their own center of gravity the dance is depicts men getting ready for war, with a until their bodies give out. high hierarchical chief distinguishable by a larger tur- The Night of the River is another organic and ban and ribbon and by surrounded by a squad. Throu- centrifugal festivity. Dozens of groups from different ghout the entire Carnival, a war to the death is declared riverside areas follow the current of the Magdalena on killjoys. River and meet at the Caribbean Cultural Park, it’s not by chance that Barranquilla is just a step away from the delta river. The energy in the air makes you feel the 06 – fairs and festivals Barranquilla: port of development WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT BARRANQUILLA 1. It is a special, industrial and port district. 2. It is the main economic hub of the entire Caribbean region. 3. Its metropolitan area has holds the second-largest private investment in the country. 4. Its population is approximately 1,232,000 people. 5. It has a dry tropical climate. 6. A large part of its population is of immigrant origin. BARRANQUILLA, A GROWING CITY OVER 5 $1.9 MILLION 13% million tons of goods per capita was the total annual income average passed through district’s public investment growth in Barranquilla between Barranquilla’s port in 2018 in 2017 2010 and 2017 Between 2008 and 2018 the city’s middle class grew from 70% average income growth per household between 2008 to 19.6% to 30.2% 2018 7 INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT THE BARRANQUILLA CARNIVAL Investment: Revenue: Duration: Contributions: in 2019, the Carnival of 4 days 49% 20,000 Barranquilla turned a profit of over of the resources come million pesos from the private sector 384 billion pesos Tourism: Profitability: Hotel industry: over 300,000 IT IS THE THIRD 186 hotels tourists attended its events most profitable event with over 14,250 beds and in 2019 of this kind in Latin 7,841 rooms available America A variety of characters in costumes and make up walk the city streets.
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