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My Kwai… an Unabridged Account of Travelling the Thai River Region That Inspired a Movie Legend

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My Kwai… an Unabridged Account of Travelling the Thai River Region That Inspired a Movie Legend TRAVEL My Kwai… AN UNABRIDGED ACCOUNT OF TRAVELLING THE THAI RIVER REGION THAT INSPIRED A MOVIE LEGEND bout 120 kilometres northwest of Bangkok, nestled against the Myanmar border, lies the province of Kanchanaburi. The province’s capital town – perhaps a little confusingly, also known as Kanchanaburi – is home to some 30,000 residents and swollen all-year-round with a never-ending tide of tourists. Notoriously, the province is home to the Death Railway – the Burma-Thailand line built by prisoners-of-war under the watchful eyes of the Japanese occupying forces of World War II. ATo many, it will be best known for its starring role in The Bridge On the River Kwai, the 1957 movie that told the tale of the construction of this infamous project. The movie, though, was actually filmed in Sri Lanka – although The Deer Hunter, Michael Cimino’s 1978 Academy Award-winning film, genuinely was filmed here. Over the years, historians – and politicians of various hues – have taken issue with The Bridge On the River Kwai’s take on this controversial episode. Both its geography and its depiction of the inhumane conditions of the POWs toiling over its construction have been greatly disputed. 150 151 TRAVEL Today, the bridge seen by many visitors is not though, and the way that the items have been left Many that come to revisit the past, find themselves the original one. That was bombed several times by unmaintained actually gives them an authenticity the Allies back in 1945. In fact, even the railway line missing in many Western museums. transfixed by the glories of the present itself no longer exists, closed in 1947 when it proved In terms of travelling around the wider region, economically nonviable in peace time. Some sections although a rail line still stretches out to Kanchanaburi, of it, however, were re-opened in 1957. no trains pass over the famous bridge. In fact with only the border between Thailand and Myanmar, with a blazes – brief or otherwise – can be found scattered In many ways, it is its symbolism that makes two trains a day heading out from Bangkok, travelling host of spectacular sites to savour along the way. throughout the hills. It all makes for a suitably savage the bridge quite so significant today. The war fought by rail is seldom a really viable option in this particular Kanchanaburi town will inevitably prove the backdrop to the area, an ever-present reminder of its here was brutal and even the tourist recreation of the part of the world. ideal place to start your visit. Small and with an ever- history of conflict and bloodshed. Surprisingly, though, original bridge remains a testament to that. The events A better bet is the rather more frequent bus shifting population of backpackers, it still maintains many of the POWs confined here found that this that took place here some 70 years ago still define service – first class with air conditioning and fewer that uniquely Thai vibe. While there are no five- manifestation of nature at its rawest was the one thing the area, though the many that come to revisit the stops, then the second and third class options with star hotels here, there are a number of well-run that kept them going. Indeed, many vowed to one day past, often find themselves transfixed by the present, reduced comfort and a lower likelihood of arriving and comfortable places to stay set along the river, return and revisit it in happier times. enraptured by the incredible landscapes and unique at your desired destination. These services leave Opening spread: many of them offering the ideal locale to watch the It is perhaps such sentiments that have allowed the wildlife that abound here. Bangkok several times a day and typically cost Bridge 277 near sun go down. These establishments range from the region to come to terms with its troubled past, without Kanchanaburi town, The war, though, remains omnipresent. Close around 100 Thai baht (HK$22). It’s also easy to hire made famous by the modest Good Times Resort to the more upmarket U ever trying to forget it. Indeed, there are reminders by the bridge is the JEATH War Museum. It takes a taxi for the whole trip, which shouldn’t cost more 1957 film Bridge On Inchantree Kanchanaburi, with plenty of others falling everywhere – notably the Hellfire Pass Memorial its name from an acronym of the forces from Japan, than about HK$650. Alternatively, for about HK$110 the River Kwai; somewhere in between. Museum, one of the best maintained repositories of its England, Australia and America, Thailand and day, you can hire a car from one of Bangkok’s more Above, left: The A bustling night market runs throughout the kind to be found locally. Holland who laboured, fought and fell here. It houses reputable auto leasing companies. three-headed, week, one clearly geared more towards the locals than Established back in 1998 by the Australian white elephant god a small but memorable collection of war relics – guns, The journey between Bangkok and Kanchanaburi Airavata of Hindu the tourists. With sleepy fruit-stalls lining the road, Government, it’s dedicated to all of those who lived, Japanese swords, uniforms, money and photos. The town inevitably sees you hit pockets of local traffic mythology; there’s something timeless and uniquely charming worked and died on the Death Railway, regardless fact that it looks like it hasn’t been touched since it on the narrow highways, prolonging the journey right: The Hellfire Pass about Kanchanaburi. Throughout its stretches of of their ethnic or national origins. Also known as the opened in 1977 only adds to its charm. somewhat. The flexibility of having a hire, though, will Memorial Museum barely touched land, you can find waterfalls, caves and Konyu Cutting, a small podium nearby provides a view Opposite: A modern- The English translations of the captions to the be the envy of many of those confined to the buses. day train on the fast-running rivers with clean, fresh water. out over the grassland the rail line skirts. collection are often hand-painted on the walls and Overall, the province extends some 225 kilometres, Burma-Thailand By contrast, the winter here is so dry that forest In the eerie semi-silence, broken only by buzzing typically too long to read. This simple presentation, running from the bridge to the Three Pagodas Pass on Death Railway fires are commonplace. The charcoal remains of such insects, it’s hard to imagine this landscape was once 152 153 TRAVEL alive with enforced labourers using their bare hands to deep enough into the forest to actually be able to make While its not easy to find the small pontoon where activities including bamboo rafting, or simply relaxing. build such an historic railway, enduring both searing an encounter with many of them. long-tail boats ferry guests back and forth, it’s worth In the misty, early morning you can also sometimes heat and 100 days of monsoon rain. A visit to the waterfalls is best made in June or the effort. Once you are aboard one of the floating glimpse the locals riding elephants to work. At the entrance of the memorial, a small building July, when the water flows more freely. If you visit later hotels, you won’t want to return to dry land any time To ease your transition back to dry land, gives visitors the chance to watch videos and peruse in the summer, though, you may find the upper tiers soon. Surrounded by water and jungle, it takes less strawberry picking is a fine diversion during the winter photos and relics from those bygone days. Tellingly, closed for safety reasons. Each tier has a name and than a day to fall into a truly natural rhythm. months. There are also a number of explorable caves though, a sign informs all-comers that it is the cutting the best is Phu Pha Erawan, set some 1.5 kilometres The pick of the bunch is the River Kwai Jungle in the area, though some, such as those at Erawan and the rail tracks that are the real museum. from the bottom and only accessible by a fairly steep Raft, an award-winning eco-floatel. Although lacking National Park, are closed to the public. It is worth Getting away from this history and deeper hike up through slippery rocks and tangled tree roots. an electricity supply, both dinner and breakfast are exploring the Lawa Cave, which is set close to the River into nature is also surprisingly easy. In fact, many Forming the seventh tier, it has the best rock pools included in the price, while its kerosene lamps amply Kwai Jungle Rafts and features a host of stalagmites visitors find themselves spoilt for choice. The Sai and the clearest water – frosty blue and enriched with light the way at night – 21st century natives be warned, and stalactites dotted throughout its various chambers. Yok Noi Waterfall is only about 19 kilometres from minerals. It is ideal for a cool swim or a complimentary however, the whole place is smart-device-charging Closer to Kanchanaburi town is the Kra Sae Hellfire Pass, although the locals maintain that fish spa courtesy of the exotic specimens that inhabit point free. Cave. This is sacred to the locals and houses several Erawan – set within the Erawan National Park – is every level of the waterfall. For a more authentic While this bamboo lodge is connected to a sand depictions of Buddha. It’s near to the remaining traces actually far more beautiful.
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