Napa County coverage: Visit us online at NapaValleyRegister.com/wine for more coverage of the wine ON WINE industry. FRIDAY, DECEMBER 20, 2019 | napavalleyregister.com | SECTION C

DAN THE WINE MAN California bubbles: available and a ordable i there, Napa Valley winers. I wrote today’s Hpiece for Lee Enterprises, The Napa Valley Register’s parent company, for national distribution. Here is the un- abridged version. I’m so glad I researched and wrote this as I’ve historically leaned toward Spanish Cava and French Crémants for quality, value sparkling . Today’s picks are world-class, af- fordable and lo- DAN cal. Napa Valley’s DAWSON supermarkets will have most, if not all, of these TONY POER PHOTO on their shelves. Donald Patz, Stuart Bewley and François Villard pour wine at Envy Winery. Patz and Villard are collaborating on a project using Bewley’s sought- Parties love a bottle of spar- after grapes. kling wine. Conversely, “bub- bles” love a good party. Not just on holidays and big events, either. Think of a reason, any reason, to throw a party, add bubbles and you are good to go. Grapes of Black and Gold Want a sure-fi re hit of a party? Invite friends to bring a bottle of , open them Three wine veterans partners sold their popular label, all and set up a self-serve table. Patz & Hall. Now, his two-de- What are you going to serve share a vision for cade relationship with one of at this party? I’ve got your back the grape growers who helped on the bubbles and the snacks! Rhône varieties in put that brand on the map is Here are three California Spar- bearing a di erent kind of fruit. kling Wine recommendations, Mendocino François Villard has everything each with a super-simple snack to do with it. idea that will pair perfectly TONY POER “When I used to go up to look with that wine. I know … I tried Wedged into a corner at Envy at Chardonnay and Pinot Noir them all to write this piece. winery in Calistoga, the 20 oak for Patz & Hall, I’d drive by the Tough work, eh? casks hardly stand out from oth- Syrah and think, ‘Oh my God, In a world bubbling over with ers piled halfway to the ceiling. that stu looks gorgeous,’” Patz sparkling wines, I recommend Napa Valley Cabernet they said, recounting trips to Alder California sparkling for qual- are not. The barrels of Syrah Springs Vineyard near the Men- ity, value and reliable supply. and white Rhône varieties from docino County town of Layton- And you don’t have to worry Mendocino County belong to ville. “It’s my favorite place in about tari s bumping up the Terminim Wines, a 2-year-old California for Rhône varieties. I price. These three California project and the brainchild of mean, certainly other people do sparkling wines are available Napa’s Donald Patz. To produce well with them, but I just always throughout the U.S., so ask them, the industry veteran part- coveted Stu’s Syrah in particu- your wine shop or grocer’s wine nered with François Villard, a re- lar.” department if you don’t see spected winemaker in France’s As it turns out, Patz had lots them. northern Rhône Valley and a of company. Note regarding my notes: master of Syrah, Viognier, and Alder Springs is a 6,000- While you can go deep with other noble grapes grown in this acre ranch that its owner, Stu- descriptors, I’ll focus on the ancient region. art Bewley, began to plant with sparkling wine “parent fl a- By most production standards, grapevines in 1993. Last month, vors” fruity, tangy, toasty and it’s a small stack of barrels, but during a visit with the Terminim creamy. These four are not the wines they contain could end partners to taste through their mutually exclusive in a wine up making a big statement. wines in barrel at Envy, Bewley so I double up on each of my Patz and Villard refer to them- described his large property as picks. My snack pairings match selves, on their bottles and in per- contiguous but very spread- the wine fl avors (tangy bub- son, as collaborateurs. With one out, viticulturally. “Some of the bles-tangy snack, etc). foot in California and another in vineyard blocks are miles away — J Sparkling Wine “Cu- France, Terminim is a long-dis- TONY POER PHOTO from each other,” he said. vée 20” Russian River Val- tance and, indeed, multi-lingual The Terminim and Villard labels. The patchwork of vine plant- ley, $32 arrangement. Communication ings at Alder Springs notwith- This is the best “palate-perk- is mainly through email and text barrels and winery equipment times a year. Depending on what standing, there has always been er-upper” of the lot. I call this messages, with accompanying — and also over lunches, din- his schedule and availability are, a concentration of artisan wine- fruity and tangy, like icy-cold photographs and data that allow ners, and plenty of tastings with François is here. And he really is makers vying to get their hands Granny Smith apples, citrus the Rhône winemaker to make the California colleagues he calls involved with the winemaking. on the Syrah and Viognier grown spray and toothsome pineapple. decisions Patz might not be able his friends. It’s not like, ‘Do whatever you there. Patz is just one of the lat- J Winery is a national leader in to on his own. “You know, it’s kind of amaz- want to do, Donald, and then you est. In person, Villard gets to prac- ing,” said Patz in a recent phone can use my name.’” Please see DAWSON, Page C5 tice his English standing around call. “Probably two or three In 2016, Patz and his former Please see WINERY, Page C5

PLEASE THE PALATE Moscato d’Asti – spring in a glass ainy, cold weather getting hectares planted, of which 1,400 The Consorzio provides quality you down? Longing for hectares are planted on hills, control throughout the entire Rspring to come? Open up across 52 municipalities in the process for each and every one a bottle of Moscato d’Asti and provinces of Alessandria, Asti of these bottles. They do labora- transport yourself to a picnic in and Cuneo in . tory tests on the wines that have the spring. No matter the time Ten years ago, no more than requested DOCG or DOC status. of the year, no matter the tem- 2 million bottles were exported They do instrumental analysis perature outside, Moscato d’Asti from Italy. Today, there are 18 and microbiological inspections. is fresh and is like million bottles exported to the They prevent the counterfeit use spring in a glass. U.S.. As 67 percent of Moscato of the name. Now, your fi rst d’Asti consumption is in the The Moscato grape produces ALLISON LEVINE PHOTO thought might United States, we must already beautifully aromatic wines that Moscato d’Asti is a popular with a strong following in the U.S. be, “but Moscato know that it is delicious! maintain sensory qualities from d’Asti is a sweet The world’s most popular the grape to the bottle to the ready to bottle, the stored musts orange, honey and little spice. wine.” It is OK to sweet aromatic wine, Moscato is glass. It is a grape that ripens late. are fermented to the desired alco- Moscato d’Asti DOCG, which ALLISON admit you like a a regulated product. It is over- If it is picked too soon, the wine is hol by volume and then separate achieved DOCG status in 1993, is LEVINE little sweetness in seen by the Consorzio per la too acidic. If it is picked too late, the solids. not a sparkling wine. It is a still your wine. When Tutela dell’Asti (Consortium for the wine is too sweet and fl at. The There are three DOCG Mos- wine with some residual sugar a little residual the Protection of Asti Wines). ideal moment to is when cato wines. Asti Dolce DOCG, and low alcohol. It has intense sugar is balanced by bright Founded in 1932 and recognized the acidity and the sugars are in Moscato d’Asti DOCG and the aromas of lemon, peach, apricot, acidity, there is nothing not to in 1934, the Consorzio has 1109 balance. new Asti Seco DOCG. Asti Dolce orange blossom and sage and del- like. And Moscato d’Asti is just members. Of the members, there This is far more challenging DOCG is what we also call Asti icate sweet fl avors on the palate. that. It is fun, fruity, light and are 1,023 estates (including 116 than it sounds as the producer Spumante and was established Asti Secco DOCG is the newest refreshing but it is also a serious estate wineries), 17 must pro- must also preserve the fragrant as a DOCG in 1993. The Mos- DOCG as of 2017 and is a dry, wine with a lot of care is put into ducers, 16 cooperative wineries aromas. The grapes are softly cato comes from hilly areas with fragrant wine with a persistent making it. and 53 spumante producers. pressed and then undergo an in- chalky soils and is harvested by perlage and delicate aromas of The fi rst written records of There are 88 million bottles complete alcoholic fermentation. hand to maintain whole clusters. apple, pear, acacia, lavender and the Moscato Bianco grape in produced each year. 55 million The must can be stored at zero The fi nished wine is a balance sage and a fresh mouthfeel. Piemonte, Italy were in the bottles are Asti Spumante and degrees and be preserved for two of sweetness and acidity with 1300s. Today there are 10,000 33 million are Moscato d’Asti. or three years. When they are intense aromas of acacia fl owers, Please see LEVINE, Page C5

M 1 Napa Valley Register WINE Friday, December 20, 2019 | C5

plained, “was not a quality Winery problem, but I wasn’t a From C1 master of my subject. With Terminim, I am very proud In June of 2017, he con- because this wine looks like ceived of Terminim with the my wines” in the Rhône help of a mutual friend of Valley. his and Villard’s in Napa. He Back at Envy, Patz moved asked Bewley if he planned to excitedly among the bar- have either or both varieties rels like the proverbial kid available in the upcoming in a candy store. He waved . The grower told him a wine thief to get his col- he’d have to wait in line. leagues’ attention. “Now, “’I’ve got it all sold,’” Patz keep up, boys!” he ordered, recalled hearing Bewley say holding out a glass pulled over the phone. “’Everybody from one of the Syrah barrels wants more. I’m really in a to pour into theirs. great position with both of Bewley swirled the jet- those.’ So I was a little dis- black wine in his glass while appointed. But, you know, he reflected on what the that’s the way it goes some- partners had created from times.” his grapes. “There’s phi- A short time after the call, losophy behind it. There’s their mutual friend, Jack Ed- terroir that you experience wards, announced that Vil- with these wines. I think lard was coming to California that when you get too ripe, for a late summer visit before you lose the terroir, and harvest began in the Rhône these wines are not that Valley. Edwards’ company w a y.” imports Villard’s wines into He shared an opinion, California and a handful of held by many who make and other states, and the two are sell Rhône varieties in Cali- close friends. fornia that, unlike Cabernet It gave Patz an idea. and Pinot Noir, there are too “At the beginning of Au- many styles of Syrah pro- gust, I called up Stu again, duced in this state. “Con- and I said, ‘I know you don’t sumers aren’t sure when have any grapes for sale. But they order a bottle of wine I’d really like to bring my what they’re going to get.” friend, François Villard, up “But,” he added, “I think to see your vineyard. And so that if people were tasting that at some point in the fu- these types of Syrahs, they ture, when you do have some would love Syrah.” available, he’ll be aware of it “This project is not vital, and we can, you know, get neither for Donald nor for some grapes from you.’ And PHOTO COURTESY OF ALDER SPRINGS‌ me,” Villard wrote in the I heard Stu choking on the Donald Patz, François Villard and Stuart Bewley in Alder Springs Vineyard. email right before his train other end of the line.” arrived in Lyon. Then he Bewley was familiar with, Viognier — are sought after Miner’s Oakville winery. of Marsanne, Viognier, and Just a couple of weeks ear- chose an interesting word: and impressed by, Villard’s by retailers, sommeliers, and Looking back on that first a third variety, Roussanne. lier, on a train ride from Paris “This is one of the reasons wines. According to Patz, he collectors with a level of en- foray into California wine- All three grapes figure into to Lyon, Villard had answered that allows us to realize it changed his mind right then thusiasm usually reserved for making and the experience Terminim’s proprietary questions via email about serenely.” over the phone. “Sure, I’ve fine Bordeaux and Burgundy. Villard has built upon since white wine, called Cépages Terminim Wines, and spe- The Terminim wines do got grapes for François!” he Villard, in the meantime, the early 2000s, Patz sees d’Or. It’s French for “grapes cifically about his and Patz’s seem to have a “serenity” exclaimed, to Patz’s amuse- is enamored with Napa Val- a partner hitting his stride of gold.” working relationship. “What to them, in that they’re el- ment. ley and California, and Ter- with the Alder Springs fruit. While Patz bounced from really pleases me in the Ter- egant and don’t attack the “Man, 20 years of working minim isn’t his first wine- “He actually hasn’t said cask to cask, pulling sam- minim project is that Donald palate with tannin or al- together isn’t good enough,” making project here. this to me specifically, but I ples of still-fermenting is someone who is always cohol. They reflect Patz’s he laughed, “but some Along with Jack Edwards kind of think that these Ter- 2019 whites and finished ’18 positive, and he still wants to ideas for how Bewley’s fruit Frenchy shows up and Stu’s and Edwards’ former boss, minim wines are more a re- Syrah to share with Bewley realize his dreams,” he wrote. should smell and taste in ready to go to work!” Dave Miner, he came up with flection of the kind of wines and Villard, the Frenchman “I have carte blanche. This the glass. And, just a couple The “Frenchy’s” reputa- the idea for La Diligence, a that François wanted to raised a glass of the latter to allows me to experience my of into the project, tion precedes him. Villard former second label at Miner make in California,” he said. his nose and smiled. ideas on the vinification of they demonstrate Villard’s has been written about in Family Winery. The wines “But that’s just a broad- “If I say it’s the best Syrah grapes produced 9,000 kilo- abilities — and sensibilities both The New York Times were based on Syrah and stroke impression.” I’ve ever drunk in Califor- meters from my winery. I give — as a winemaker. and The Los Angeles Times, Marsanne, another white At the Envy barrel tasting nia?” he half-giggled. “No, my ideas and Donald accepts “If you look at the back and his wines have been ex- grape Villard works with at last month, Villard painted but seriously, c’est très bon. them with a smile.” label of Terminim,” as Patz tensively reviewed around home in the Rhône. The plan a more detailed picture of It’s very good. I really think He compared Terminim to pointed out in his call, “it the U.S. and internationally. was hatched in 2002 at a bar how he believes the proj- Alder Springs is a great ter- the earlier collaboration with says ‘François Villard and Domaine Villard Côte-Rôtie in Paso Robles—over mar- ect fits into the larger Cal- roir. I think that, maybe on his friends at Miner Family Donald Patz, collaborators,’ and Condrieu — the northern garitas and despite an almost ifornia landscape of Syrah these vintages, we have the and found his own reasons or in French, collaborateurs. Rhône appellations made, complete language barrier— and white Rhône blends, possibility of really seeing to be positive. Creating the And that’s really what it is. respectively, from Syrah and and realized two years later at most often combinations the quality of the terroir.” Diligence wines, Villard ex- It’s sort of a shared vision.”

and then gently pressed. Stefano in 1975. A hillside Located in on the bor- the winery with a focus on fruit and a touch of effer- Levine The grape juice is stored in area, the soils are sand and der of Asti in Alessandria, improving the quality of vescence on the palate. From C1 refrigerated tanks until it white marl. The nose of the Marenco is in , one of Piemontese wine. In the Whether you are looking is ready to be processed in wine has notes of pineap- the three named subzones 1980s, Michele Chiarlo be- for a wine for aperitivo, or The producers of Mos- an autoclave (pressurized ple, sweet and sour lemon, of Moscato. Dating back gan reducing yields in order one to enjoy with some pro- cato also make , tank). It is then fermented orange rind and sage. On to 1925, Michele Marenco to produce more balanced sciutto and melon, or one Barbera and Dolcetto but and bottled, and the fin- the palate, the wine is sweet planted the family vineyard. wines. In the 1990s, the in- to drink for dessert, enjoy when they speak about ished product is 5.5 percent yet balanced with the acid- His son Giuseppe began the tent was to produce the best a Moscato d’Asti. It’s OK Moscato, they speak with alcohol. A light straw yel- ity. It is fresh and focused winery in 1956 and today it single-vineyard wines. To- to admit you like this fun, emotion. They are pro- low color, the wine has in- and 5 percent alcohol. is run by his daughters Mi- day, Michele Chiarlo, run by fruity, and fresh yet serious tective of their lands, a tense stone fruit, floral and — Coppo: Located in chela, Patrizia, and Doretta, sons Stefano and Alberto, wine. And, no matter the UNESCO heritage site, and sage aromatics. It is per- the prestigious sub-zone as well as Michela’s hus- sources fruit from 150 hect- time of year, it will taste like believe that if you want fectly balanced between the of , Coppa was es- band Giovanni and her son ares, 70 of which are estate spring in a glass. to taste the terroir of the sweetness and the acidity. tablished in 1892 and is Andrea Costa. They own owned. The four most im- wines, do not smell them The wine is full-bodied and still family-owned after 80 hectares, including the portant grapes they focus Allison Levine is owner but rather feel the sensation round on the palate with 125 years. One of the oldest Scrapona vineyard, a steep on are Nebbiolo, Barbera, of Please The Palate, a on your palate. a long, persistent mineral family-run wineries in all of hillside vineyard with marl and Moscato. marketing and event-planning — Caudrina finish. Italy, the historical cellars and chalk soils, which once Michele Chiarlo Nivole agency. A freelance writer, Romano Dogliotto was — Ceretto of Coppo Winery are part belonged to their grand- Moscato d’Asti: Grown in she contributes to numerous the first non-industrial Established in the 1930s, of the Underground Cathe- mother. soils of sedimentary ma- publications while eating and producer of Moscato in the the winery is run by four drals named as a UNESCO Marenco Scrapona rine origin, white soil, and drinking her way around the 1970s. Located in the end of cousins who make up the World Heritage Site. The 2018 Moscato d’Asti sandy, the Moscato comes world. Allison is also the host the Moscato zone in Casti- third generation of the Cer- Coppo Estate covers 52 DOCG: A golden yellow from the hills surrounding of the wine podcast Wine glione, in Cuneo, and facing etto family. Federico Cer- hectares and they specialize color, the wine has an in- Canelli. The sweet, fragrant Soundtrack USA. Contact her , Caudrina has 30 etto is the export manager, in Barbera but have a love tense nose of citrus, honey, wine has vivid aromas of at allison@pleasethepalate. hectares in total and 25 are his sister Roberta is the for the ancient and prized peach, apricot and sage. peach, apricot and grape- com. planted to Moscato. Vine- architect, his cousin Ales- Moscato Bianco. The acidity is bright and yards are harvested by hand sandro is the winemaker Coppo Moncalvina fresh and the texture on the and then pressed separately. and Alessandro’s sister, Moscato d’Asti 2018 body is rich and round with The must is tasted plot by Lisa, is the administrator. Canelli: The Moscato is a long finish. plot to determine what to Certified organic, but prac- planted on south-facing We also tasted the blend for the two Asti Spu- ticing biodynamics, Ceretto vineyards at altitudes of Marenco Scrapona 2012 mante wines (La Selvatica has 250 hectares in total 200 to 280 feet. The soils Moscato d’Asti DOCG with and La Galeisa) and the and approximately 40 are are calcareous marl. A straw lovely sapidity and the Moscato d’Asti wine (La planted to Moscato in the yellow color, the wine has Marenco Scrapona 2008 Caudrina). commune of Santo Stefano fresh aromas of green ap- Moscato d’Asti DOCG with giving tree Azienda Agricola Belbo e . ples, flowers, peach, pear petrol notes, which demon- Join Charles Krug Winery and Caudrina di Romano Vignaiolo di Santo and a touch of almond skin. strated that Moscato d’Asti Dogliotti 2018 La Ga- Stefano Belbo Moscato The wine is only 4.89 per- has the potential to age. the Mondavi Family in support of leisa Moscato d’Asti: A d’Asti: The Ceretto fam- cent alcohol and has a light — Michele Chiarlo our friends at ParentsCAN and single-vineyard wine, the ily and the Scavino family fizziness on the palate. Established in 1956, grapes are hand-harvested founded I Vignaioli di Santa — Marenco Michele Chiarlo started Rail Arts District -Napa.

less-traveled than Napa wine. Like the life of the but not the case. It’s tangy, Dawson and Sonoma, Anderson party, it’s easy to like and toasty, and like a good dog From C1 Valley’s cool weather is mighty friendly. The fla- you can count on it being ideal for making sparkling vors are creamy and fruity, there to make you smile. cool-climate Sonoma wine. To my taste, Roed- a little like a pineapple/ The tang and toast make County wines, especially erer Estate makes the best. mango smoothy. Try the the Mumm an excellent sparkling. Look for the It’s fruity and tangy, like a Mirabelle Brut with cream match with cold-smoked eye-catching, mus- lemon sorbet (without the cheese wontons, easy to salmon. Serve it on a slice tard-yellow swoosh of a J sweetness). Cold poached make at home or get the of cucumber. silk-screened on the bot- shrimp, a mainstay of the Cream Cheese Rangoon at tle. For a matching snack, appetizer world, is a great Panda Express. Go light on I’m Dan Dawson, a Napa zest a lemon then squeeze match. But not the cocktail the sweet and sour sauce Valley wine writer, wine its juice into a pint of light sauce. Instead, stir some as too much will over- consumer advocate and sour cream or plain yogurt. roasted garlic and lemon whelm the wine. former wine merchant and Serve with lightly salted juice into a cup of mayon- — Mumm Napa Spar- fancy-pants sommelier. potato chips. naise. kling Wine Brut “Pres- Check out my reviews Visit Charles Krug Winery and — Roederer Estate — Mirabelle Sparkling tige,” $18 and wine tasting events purchase an ornament to place on our Sparkling Wine, Ander- Wine, North Coast, Mumm Napa sparkling at DawsonWineAdvisor. Giving Tree with funds going son Valley, Brut, $22 Brut, $27 seems to be everywhere. com. When you visit, please to support these worthy causes. Find Boonville, Califor- Napa Valley’s iconic If a store sells wine, good check out my membership nia on a map and you’re Schramsberg Winery also bet they sell Mumm. That program. Contact me Open Daily 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. looking at Anderson makes Mirabelle, a deli- might make you think it’s through my website with M 2800 Main Street, St. Helena, CA 94574 | 707.967.2229 1 Valley. Less-known and cious, great value sparkling mediocre, understandably, questions and comments.