A Good Russe NEW YORK — Oscar De La Renta Is Nothing If Not Cosmopolitan, And, for Fall, He Took a Stylish Trip to a Favorite Destination, Russia

BRADLEY BAYOU OUT AT HALSTON/2 A&F EYEING EUROPE/8 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily •WEDNESDAY The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • February 16, 2005 • $2.00 Sportswear A Good Russe NEW YORK — Oscar de la Renta is nothing if not cosmopolitan, and, for fall, he took a stylish trip to a favorite destination, Russia. On this particular trek, he picked up on some current trends: fur galore, shapes with volume and flat shoes. Here, his richly detailed velvet skirt and ruffled silk blouse. For more on the season’s Russian influences, see pages 6 and 7.

Reading the Currents: Federated-May Merger Still Seen as Possible By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — Think stalled, not broken down. The merger dance between Federated Department Stores and rival May Department Stores still has legs, according to sources. At least two leading retail analysts have pegged May with an acquisition value of $36 to $40 a share. Despite published reports, the analysts and sources said there has been only a pause in the talks between Federated and May, not an irrevocable breakdown. The analysts believe the likelihood of a Federated takeover of May remains high in the end given the rush to acquire that See Federated, Page8 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 WWD.COM Halston, Bayou Part Ways WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear By Marc Karimzadeh label is planning to take, but said, and his dresses adorned the likes “There will be a successor. We of Oprah Winfrey, Queen Latifah, FASHION NEW YORK — Halston is on the have identified several candi- Debra Messing, Janet Jackson Designers are simply crazy about Russia for fall, as evidenced by Michael lookout for a new designer. dates and will go through a and Eve. Just recently, an episode 6 Kors’ cadet-style coat to Cynthia Steffe’s velvet top and patterned skirt. Creative director Bradley process of making that decision.” of “Desperate Housewives” Bayou is leaving the iconic Ameri- Bayou became Halston’s cre- played out in a charity fashion can label to pursue several op- ative director in December 2002 show of Halston dresses. GENERAL portunities, including building after the company went through Bayou, a Texan, broke into Although merger talks between Federated Department Stores and May his own collection and more tele- several designers in five years to the fashion business in 1989 1 Department Stores have stalled, Wall Street remains bullish on the deal. vision work. The fall collection, revive the iconic brand, which with his own hand-painted vests Creative director Bradley Bayou is leaving Halston to pursue several which is to be presented by ap- was relaunched in 1997. Ran- that were sold at Neiman Mar- 2 opportunities such as building his own collection and more TV work. pointment at Halston’s atelier in dolph Duke, Kevan Hall, Craig cus, Fred Segal and Barneys Island Capital Group plans to make marinas into one-stop docking for Los Angeles next month, will be Natiello and Piyawat Pattana- New York. He established signa- luxury ships, as well as retail, dining, hotel and recreational facilities. Bayou’s last for the house. puckdee each passed through ture custom and ready-to-wear 5 “Bradley has done five collec- Halston’s threshold, but made collections, and often appeared Better-than-expected sales and lower costs spurred Nordstrom Inc. to tions for Halston, and it’s been a news with dramatic departures. on TV shows such as “Live with 9 double-digit earnings gains for the fourth quarter and year-end periods. good relationship,” James J. Am- There were reports of staff Regis & Kelly” and “The View.” Sales rose at apparel, general merchandise and department stores in meen, chief executive officer of abuse, alcohol problems and “I have just decided it was 9 January, as stores cleared merchandise and shoppers cashed in gift cards. Halston LLC, said. “We can’t even a rumored penile enhance- time to pursue my own label,” speak for him, but it became obvi- ment gone wrong during the vari- Bayou said. “I love the associa- The Justice Department filed an appeal seeking to overturn an injunction ous to us in our recent experience ous tenures. tion with Hollywood, and my 13 that has halted the government’s review of China safeguard petitions. that we are moving the brand in a This threatened to discredit strength is turning celebrities direction that may be a little dif- the house’s respectability, but who are considered to be the ferent from where it would be if Bayou managed to deflect any worst dressed into the best MAINSTREAM Gloria Vanderbilt’s fall ad campaign features three supermodels and is we were to do it with Bradley.” image problems. His tenure was dressed. I am about to do it meant to raise the profile of the moderate brand. Ammeen added that it was too scandal-free, and the label was again for the Academy Awards 10 early to disclose the direction the picked up by Bergdorf Goodman, and it will be a big one.” WEST A revised schedule involving fashion week and the contemporary and 18 general markets in Los Angeles is causing confusion and concern. Pinault Not Part of Exec Life Settlement SUZY Cornelia Guest will slip into a Badgley Mischka dress for Elton John’s Oscar PARIS — François Pinault, the bank Credit Lyonnais’ acquisi- merly state-owned Lyonnais. 4 party…Kate Winslet says it’s all in the bra…Diamond in the rough. French tycoon whose PPR owns tion of the troubled California in- Sources said the deal did not Gucci Group and the retailer surer at a time when it was ille- include all parties involved, ex- WWDCoterie, a Section II preview of the Fashion Coterie show, appears in this issue. Printemps, was not included in a gal for banks to own insurance cluding not only Pinault but also Obituaries...... 17 $525 million out-of-court settle- companies. the MAAF insurance entity. Classified Advertisements ...... 19-23 ment reached hours before a Pinault is alleged to have bro- The implications for Pinault To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fraud trail that opened in Los ken the law by covering up for remain unclear, and he could [email protected], using the individual’s name. Angeles on Tuesday. Lyonnais after his family holding still face litigation in the civil WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 A spokeswoman for Pinault company, Artemis, bought Execu- suit, which claimed some $3.7 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. declined comment, but the en- tive Life’s junk bond portfolio billion in damages. VOLUME 189, NO. 35. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one trepreneur is believed to be and made handsome profits. Pinault has denied any guilt, additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional pursuing his own negotiated Tuesday’s agreement was but he last year paid $185 mil- issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL deal in the ongoing Executive with a French government lion to settle a federal case, also OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Life affair. agency called CDR, which is linked to Executive Life. Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, The case stems from French handling the affair for the for- — Robert Murphy Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR McArthurGlen Names Radice DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production By Miles Socha time of rapid expansion for the Oaks, U.K. — selling brands such correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, U.K.-based operator. It has seven as Prada, Polo Ralph Lauren, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild PARIS — A gust of innovation is projects under development, in- Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive bound to blow through designer cluding a 70 million euro, or Bulgari and Versace. The compa- these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. outlet malls in Europe soon. $90.3 million at current exchange ny is also present in France, WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED WWD has learned that devel- rate, mall in the heart of Tuscany Holland and Austria. MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND oper McArthurGlen has tapped with bridges over the River Arno McArthurGlen chairman Joey TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART Vittorio Radice, the star retailer linking more than 100 shops. The W. K aempfer said Radice would WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED best known for rejuvenating the unit is slated to open this fall. bring a “fresh perspective” to TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. British department store Sel- At present, McArthurGlen op- the design, positioning, market- fridges, as its first nonexecutive erates 13 designer outlets, in- ing and tenant mix of its centers. director. cluding two of the largest — in Radice, 47, is also expected His appointment comes at a Serraville, Italy, and Cheshire to share his expertise in build- In Brief ing brands and revitalizing the retail experience. Last June, Radice exited ● ANDEAN PLANS: U.S. trade officials are discussing the con- Marks & Spencer plc after one cept of “cumulation” with three Andean countries involved in year as head of its home and gen- free-trade negotiations with the U.S., Regina Vargo, assistant eral merchandise division. His U.S. Trade Representative for the Americas, said Monday in a tenure culminated with the open- teleconference. The U.S. has said it plans to include Bolivia, ing of the first Lifestore home currently an observer country, in the pact at a later time. Under furnishings format, considered a a cumulation provision, Peru, Colombia and Ecuador could use major development in lifestyle certain fabrics and yarns in their apparel assembly from a desig- retailing. nated number of countries that already have free-trade pacts But he is best known for his with the U.S. The U.S. completed the seventh round of negotia- trendsetting revamp of Selfridges, tions last week in Cartagena, Colombia, and Vargo said textile where he put the spotlight on and apparel negotiations will take place March 16-18 at the brands, served up a number of Material World show in Miami. restaurants alongside trendy fashions and introduced non-apparel items, such as iPods, into the mix. Before Selfridges, he was managing director of Habitat Correction U.K., the home furnishings chain. Carlos Perez del Castillo, the Uruguayan diplomat, is 60. His age Radice could not be reached was incorrect in a story on page 27, Tuesday. for comment Tuesday. M

TheMezzanine A New Level of Exhibition Space on Piers 90 and 92

Imitation of Christ • Daryl K. • Rozae Nichols • Gold Sign • Saddelites • Louis Verdad • Heatherette • Development • Frost French • Vivienne Westwood • Buddhist Punk • Shangana • Habitual • Plus...

F ASHIONCOTERIE THEMEZZANINE SOLECOMMERCE Sunday-Tuesday, February 27-March 1, 2005 212.759.8055 [email protected] 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 WWD.COM Hurley’s Horror ● Hatching Teri ● Cruz Line

Jemima Khan

at The American Girl Place on March 8. Ralph is co- sponsoring the Hop with the D & D Building’s luxury fabric house, Scalamandre, and the two companies are underwriting the entire $80,000 cost. ● Fabiola Beracasa, the lovely Venezuelan daughter of Veronica Hearst, is bringing her unique brand of sparkle to a new position as creative director to those discreet diamond dealmakers at Chris del Gatto’s SellJewelry. This, of course, is the social set’s best-kept secret for getting top dollar for the trinkets they no longer care Suzy Teri Hatcher about. Fabiola is just back from Hilary and Galen Weston’s By Aileen Mehle exclusive enclave, Windsor, at Vero Beach where, pretty as pink, she was resplendent in a pink and white Miu Miu. Elizabeth Hurley has said screens have been placed strategically She hosted a fieldside table at the polo match benefitting over and over again that around the tent. The Duchess of York the Breast Cancer Research Foundation’s Annual Think she makes her living will be escorted by New York’s Harry Pink luncheon. Next stop on her tour is Los Angeles, eye® getting into the world’s Slatkin, whose Elton John candles will where next week she will host a lavish luncheon at the tiniest dresses. And this, be given out to everyone as a memento Chateau Marmont for an intimate group of Hollywood she says, is how she does it. “I go to of the night. Oh, hip hip hooray. wives keen to learn the new tricks in trading in and bed hungry.” But she thinks it’s ● trading up, up, up. horrible if you have to diet to lose a lot The romance between Hugh Grant ● of weight, even if that’s what she does. and Jemima Khan, the mighty heiress, Te ri Hatcher’s new career is on the move, but she’s not She eats very little breakfast, not too is going swimmingly. So swimmingly quite as fortunate in love. She divorced her second much more at lunch and only tiny little that the couple is seriously considering husband, Jon Kenney, in 2003 and has said there has been snacks during the day. “But really buying a wildly expensive hideaway no romance in her life for the last two years. In spite of the boring snacks,” she says. “Like six with a private beach, a tennis court and dry spell, Teri says she’s satisfied with her life. Satisfied, raisins.” The only meal she really has is swimming pools on an island near maybe, but Teri is now dating again. dinner. Since having her son, Damian, Cannes. It’s on the market for over $60 ● two years ago, she has lost 60 pounds, million, but maybe Hugh and Jemima Matthew McConaughey, after spending the last six and she remembers thinking that she can get the price down. months denying his relationship with Penélope Cruz, now looked so thin and had done so well. ● says he “loves her.” But he’s rather worried that some Then she weighed herself and was still Kate Winslet carried a brown people might accuse him of stealing Penélope from To m 20 pounds overweight. “That was a alligator Cleopatra clutch by Lana Cruise. How silly. Cruise and Cruz split up in January really depressing moment.” But she Marks and wore matching pumps from 2004, well before Matthew started teaching Penélope how also says she’s thinking about doing it the same skins to the Academy Awards to play the bongos. “You don’t mess around with another all over again. Nominees reception at the Beverly guy’s girlfriend,” Matthew says. Really? Tell it to the ● Hilton Hotel. But Kate, who is Marines. Cornelia Guest will slip into a slinky nominated for Best Actress for her role ● sky blue Badgley Mischka dress Fabiola Beracasa in “Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Betty Knight Scripps, the newspaper heiress, will decorated with silver beading to wear Mind,” says her acting technique starts soon be among us. She is arriving in town just in time to to her chum Sir Elton John’s annual off with her lingerie. “I start with the attend the small dinner in her honor given by Chris Oscar party in Hollywood. She will sit with Elton’s partner, bra. If the bra’s right, everything else falls into place.” Kate Hunter, who just succeeded Beverly Sills as chairman of David Furnish. The money from the evening will all go to has donated the navy crepe halter-neck dress by Ben de the Metropolitan Opera. After dinner, they’ll attend a Elton’s AIDS foundation, which has raised over $50 Lisi that she wore to the premiere of “Finding Neverland” performance of “Turandot.” Betty’s date for the evening million since its founding in 1992. The party, cohosted by to help victims of the tsunami. Elizabeth Hurley, Elle is the financially prominent James Kinnear. The next day, Elton and the jeweler Chopard, will be held for the first Macpherson and Madonna have also given clothes. Kate is Betty will fly into the Westhampton airport as her plane time at Charles Cohen’s Pacific Design Center, the official considering doing the same thing for the dress she’ll wear is too big to land anywhere else in the area. What a venue sponsor of the gala for the next five years. The to the Oscars. Apparently she’s hanging on to the bra. shame. She’ll spend the day looking at houses in center’s outdoor plaza will be fitted with a specially ● Southampton and surroundings. She already has a 400- designed lavishly decorated circular tent and one of Ralph Lauren will hold a kick-off shopping spree at the acre plantation in Charlottesville, Va., and a seaside Elton’s favorite chefs, Renato Piccolento, is being flown in Polo store on Madison Avenue next week in honor of the village at the Lyford Cay Club in Nassau. Along with from Cipriani in Venice to create the four-course banquet Associates Committee of the Society of Memorial Sloan never being too rich or too thin, I guess you can never for 450 guests. To watch the Academy Awards, giant Kettering Cancer Center’s Annual Bunny Hop, to be held have too many houses. KHAN PHOTO BY WIREIMAGE; BERACASA BY PATRICK MCMULLAN PATRICK BY WIREIMAGE; BERACASA KHAN PHOTO BY WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 5 WWD.COM Seaside Luxury

Luxury berth: A rendering of Yacht Haven on St. Thomas.

By David Moin migrating patterns of large yachts.” Sheri Wilson-Gray, the former executive vice NEW YORK — Luxury brands will soon have a president and chief marketing officer of Saks Fifth wider berth for expansion, if they think beyond Avenue, has joined Island Capital as executive vice malls and consider marinas. president to direct the sales, leasing and marketing Island Capital Group LLC, a New York-based activities and shape the character of Yacht Haven’s real estate firm, plans to transform existing mari- various components. At Saks, she led marketing ini- nas and build new ones around the world that will tiatives with several luxury brands. She said that at encompass state-of-the-art docking for mega- Yacht Haven in St. Thomas, stores are expected to yachts, smaller cruise ships and other craft, as be open in the first quarter of 2006, while the mari- well as upscale shopping, dining, hotel and recre- na and some restaurants will be operating at the ational facilities. The intent is to create “lifestyle end of this year. The marinas will be built with fin- destinations” that draw the rich, the super rich, ger piers up to 18 feet in length to accommodate and the aspirational, from land or sea. mega-yachts, which are those over 80 feet in length. The strategy — disclosed exclusively to WWD Asked about the progress in leasing, Wilson- by Island Capital officials — earmarks exotic sea- Gray said letters of intent are being negotiated. side resort locations, including St. Thomas in the She declined to specify which brands could sign U.S. Virgin Islands, where a 22.5-acre marina on leases, but cited Origins, MAC, Sephora, Ralph Charlotte Amalie Harbor is already being rede- Lauren, Louis Vuitton and Burberry as among veloped and renamed Yacht Haven. Future mari- those being looked at. na projects will also be christened Yacht Haven. “There will also be a mix of local vendors that are Phase one of Yacht Haven in St. Thomas will not necessarily high ticket,” selling glassware, color- cost about $160 million and will have an 80,000- ful ready-to-wear, swimsuits, pareos, sandals, straw square-foot retail village, a new marina, 30,000 bags, pottery and other objects that reflect the local square feet of office space, 12 luxury condomini- cultures, as well as casualwear, jewelry, cosmetics, ums and four restaurants, including one off a pier wine and spirits, home accessories, and men’s wear. jutting into the harbor with a 360-degree view of “When people travel, they like to shop, and they like the island and the water. to find things they can’t find at home,” she said. About 20 to 25 percent of the retail will be local merchants, she added, noting that stores will range from 1,000 to 6,000 square feet. Store exteri- ors will be uniform, with the exception of signage. Wilson-Gray estimated that rtw stores should generate $500 to $800 in sales per square foot based on projections from retailers. Jewelers could generate $1,000 to $3,000 in sales per square foot. The St. Thomas project has been under way for 2 1/2 years, since Island Capital purchased the property and took over the development process from the former Insignia Financial Group, which was founded by Farkas and sold off in 2003. Farkas is the son of Robin Farkas, who ran the former Alexander’s

PHOTO BY DAN D’ERRICO PHOTO BY chain. Finegold was Insignia’s chief innovation offi- Elie Finegold, Sheri Wilson-Gray and Andrew Farkas. cer, working on strategic initiatives. Andrew Cuomo is an executive at Island Capital, involved in public Phase two entails a 70-room hotel, 40,000 square policy and real estate capital markets. feet of retail, one or two more restaurants, a 25,000- “We are creating an entirely new dynamic,” square-foot conference center, expanding the marina, Farkas said. “The proximity of a large number of upgrading a water theme park and adding outdoor vessels gathered together creates an exciting recreational facilities, all costing $50 million. environment, right on the water, with a spectacu- “St. Thomas is definitely the prototype,” said lar skyline of yachts.” Andrew Farkas, chairman and chief executive of Todd Kenny, director of development for Yacht Island Capital. “It’s the first facility of its type to Haven, characterized the project’s architecture be developed anywhere and it’s intended to as neoclassical colonial with a Caribbean twist, change the face of retailing in the Caribbean. This with Art Deco stairways, intricate iron detailing, is our flagship property, and the one all of our oth- second-floor verandas, shutters, red steel roofs ers will be judged against. It’s very important to and passageways. have a stellar property here.” According to figures provided by Island Capital, Farkas said that Island Capital has nine prop- there are about 6,000 mega-yachts in the world, and erties in the Caribbean and Middle East under its about 650 are projected coming out of the shipyards control, either owned, with options to acquire or each year for the next four years. St. Thomas draws develop, or managed by the company, and a total two million cruise-ship visitors, each year and anoth- market capitalization in excess of $1 billion. “We er 660,000 visitors by air. The island has the highest expect to have more properties under our control duty-free limits of any duty-free port in the world for over the next 12 to 18 months. We’re in various U.S citizens, allowing $1,600. Most other ports have degrees of negotiations on 10 others.” an $600 to $800 limits. On St. Thomas, the per capita Added Elie Finegold, president of Yacht spend is higher than other Caribbean venues, at Haven, “We’re looking at doing projects through- north of $250, according to CB Richard Ellis. Sip Responsibly. out the Caribbean from St. Lucia through the “There is tremendous pent-up demand for Bahamas and, in the longer term, Florida and high-level marina facilities. Most don’t have a Southeast U.S., the Northwest, Northeast, the retail experience that’s any fun,” Farkas said. Grey Goose and Grey Goose and Design are Registered Trademarks. ©2005 Imported by Grey Goose Importing Company, Miami, FL. Vodka 40% Alc. by Vol. Mediterranean and parts of the Persian Gulf. It’s “Marinas used to be about storage. Now they’re a swath of geography that follows the primary about hospitality and entertainment.” 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005

Anna Sui Peter Som Rebecca Taylor From Russia Wi WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 7 WWD.COM PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE AND GIOVANNI GIANNONI GEORGE CHINSEE AND GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY

Michael Kors Cynthia Steffe

NEW YORK — Cossacks and kulaks and Romanovs, oh my! Designers are simply crazy about Russia this season, and the myriad interpretations of their infatuation ranged from Michael Kors’ strictly tailored, cadet-style coat to Cynthia Steffe’s velvet ith Love top and patterned skirt rich enough for a czarina. 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 WWD.COM A&F Net Up 10.6 Percent in Quarter By Meredith Derby investors. By the quarter’s end, the New Albany, Ohio- based retailer operated 356 Abercrombie & Fitch, 171 NEW YORK — Abercrombie & Fitch Co. found its groove Abercrombie kids, 256 Hollister and four Ruehl stores. late last year, and its name was Hollister. The company noted, however, that it will restate its Thanks to much-improved same-store sales in the consolidated statements of cash flows and net income for fourth quarter, including a 17 percent comp-store leap the fiscal years ended Feb. 2, 2002, Feb. 1, 2003 and Jan. in January and a focus on store improvements and 31, 2004 to reflect certain construction allowances from staffing, Abercrombie posted fourth-quarter earnings landlords of leased store properties. The adjustments Tuesday that rose 10.6 percent and easily surpassed an- will affect net income each year by about $1 million. alysts’ estimates. Its lower-priced Hollister division led Robert Singer, chief operating officer, reiterated on the quarter with a 74 percent surge in revenues. the call that the company’s Ruehl concept is “off to a The quarter’s results helped fuel the specialty retail- great start.” It posted a $12 million loss, net of taxes, in er’s optimism regarding its existing international ex- 2004 and is projected to post an $18 million loss in fiscal pansion strategy, which now includes plans for up to 2005, net of taxes. five new stores in Canada this year — with an eventual “It is still too early for the business to make a mean- goal of 20 stores over time — as well as a confirmation ingful contribution from a value and profitability stand- that its first European stores are projected to open by point,” Singer said on the call, although he does expect late 2006. Abercrombie said it had hired a chief execu- 2007 to be a turning point for the brand in terms of prof- tive officer and a chief financial officer for its European itability. business, whose roles became effective on Feb. 1. Their Regarding 2005 expansion plans, the company is fo- names were not provided. cused on building a 34,000-square-foot flagship Domestically, the development of its newest concept, Abercrombie & Fitch, which is anticipated to open this Ruehl, also remains on track with the expected addition fall at Fifth Avenue and 56th Street here. Another flag- of five new stores in the year, in addition to the one ship is planned for Los Angeles. Ruehl store opened in the just-completed quarter, near In addition, 55 Hollister stores will be added in 2005, in- Detroit. Through several planned remodels and other cluding the conversion of three adult Abercrombie and store additions to its three other brands, most notably five Abercrombie kids stores to smaller-formatted its Hollister concept, total square footage is seen in- Hollister stores. One Abercrombie store will be converted creasing 9 percent this fiscal year. Total capital expen- to a Ruehl store, and 18 new adult Abercrombie stores, as ditures are forecast at $225 million to $250 million in well as three new Abercrombie kids stores, will be opened. 2005, versus $186 million in 2004. Regarding the five stores that are expected to be Full-year 2005 earnings, meanwhile, are forecast Abercrombie & Fitch’s Ruehl concept. opened in Toronto and Edmonton, Canada, Singer said within range of analysts’ consensus estimate, assuming the company has already signed leases or is in negotia- a sales increase of 20 percent, at $2.80 to $3 a share, ver- quarter, total sales increased 22.6 percent to $687.3 tions for the locations. Two of the locations in Toronto will sus Wall Street estimates of $2.92. Abercrombie said it million from $560.4 million a year ago. Comps rose 4 be Hollister stores and one will be an adult Abercrombie plans to begin offering only annual earnings guidance percent at adult Abercrombie stores, 19 percent at site. One of each is expected to open in Edmonton. going forward, which it anticipates will be updated Hollister and 16 percent in Abercrombie kids stores. The company declared a quarterly dividend of 12.5 when past estimates differ materially. Abercrombie ex- Hollister alone saw sales per square foot for the year cents a share, which will be distributed to shareholders plained that it finds annual guidance “more meaning- exceed $420. In the quarter, Hollister had sales of $210.2 of record on March 22. Shares of Abercrombie closed ful” to investors because they tend to look more closely million, up 74 percent. Tuesday’s session off 0.9 percent at $54.30. at the long-term performance of the company. “Our results were solid from a volume, margin and For the full year, Abercrombie earned $217.5 million, In the 13 weeks ended Jan. 29, net income rose to earnings standpoint. In addition to these strong results, or $2.29, including a $25.6 million charge relating to the $104.5 million, or $1.15, compared with $94.5 million, or we have improved quality in every aspect of our busi- settlement of three diversity lawsuits disclosed in the 97 cents, a year ago. The consensus on Wall Street was ness, and our stores look and feel better than ever,” said third quarter. Comparatively, the company had a profit of for a profit of $1.13 a share. Michael Jeffries, chairman and chief executive officer $205.7 million, or $2.07, last year. Total sales increased With a comp-store sales advance of 9 percent in the of Abercrombie, on a conference call with analysts and 18.4 percent to $2.02 billion from $1.7 billion last year.

value at $40 per share based on a 50 percent debt and 50 percent equity deal struc- ture and $200 million in synergy savings in year one.” Federated-May Merger Still Has Legs Shares of May closed Tuesday at $32.10, up 24 cents. May’s 52-week low is $23.04, and its high is $36.48. The last time shares of May traded in the $36 range was on Jan. Continued from page one 20, when 18 million shares changed hands. Shares of Federated gained 75 cents in seems to have taken hold in the retail world. trading on Tuesday to close at $58. Its 52-week low is $42.80, and the high is $59.91. And Terry Lundgren, chairman, chief executive officer and president of Federated, Hood said while May’s board is continuing its search for a new ceo to replace Gene has plenty of options to consider if he’s hunting for a company to buy. Federated reports Kahn, that option represents the “riskier one for the board when compared with a merg- sales and earnings Tuesday, and the company may reveal a balance sheet healthy enough er with Federated.” He explained that sales and margins have slipped over the past five to lure a mega-investment bank (or banks) into underwriting a Federated takeover of May years, and that there’s no guarantee a new chief executive will be able to restore growth. — or another retailer, for that matter, from Neiman Marcus Group to Saks Inc. Hood concluded, “Importantly, we don’t believe the board can wait another five The mergers and acquisitions market is red hot right now. Financial sources say years to see improved results. On the other hand, at the ‘right price,’ we believe that Lundgren might take a lunge at Neiman Marcus Group, where he once worked. Neiman’s the board would vote in favor of a potential acquisition by Federated, which is what may be in play for a secondary stock offering or a sale of one of its subsidiaries. Sources we believe is best for the company, shareholders, and the industry.” in the financial community also say Neiman’s could make a bid for Saks Fifth Avenue. The analyst wrote that even at $40 a share for May, the retailer would still be an at- As an acquisitions target, Neiman’s is attractive, although there are some strings attractive acquisition for a number of reasons. High on the list is May’s company-owned tached. The luxury retailer is one of America’s best-performing properties. But the re- real estate, which Hood pegs at 62 percent of the total. While there’s also potential for tailer is already operating in most major markets with affluent demographics to support a new management team to improve performance and raise depressed margins, an- the store. The retailer could develop new formats other attraction is May’s growing bridal business, and more specialized or smaller versions of its core which has sales of over $600 million. stores, however. At the ‘right price,’ we believe that May’s bridal group includes 225 tuxedo stores, Earnings keep going up for Neiman’s and the “ which is made up of 125 Gingiss Formalwear and stock price is high, hovering recently in the $70 the board would vote in favor of a Gary’s Tux Shop stores; 64 Desmond’s Formalwear range. This would mean that Neiman’s would com- stores, and 25 Modern Tuxedo stores, which were mand a premium price. potential acquisition by Federated. purchased in December 2003. Other nameplates But the time could be ripe for a Neiman’s —Wayne Hood, Prudential Equity” Group operated in the Bridal group include 239 David’s takeover, since its major shareholders, the Smith Bridal stores, 449 After Hours Formalwear stores family, are said to be eyeing a sale of some or all of their stake, either to a single and 11 Priscilla of Boston stores. Hood estimates the bridal division can evolve into buyer or through a secondary offering. There has been a lot of buzz recently about a $1 billion business over time. the Dallas-based retailer and its ceo, Burt Tansky, who reportedly has been spend- Meanwhile, Citigroup Global Markets analyst Deborah Weinswig concluded in ing a lot of time in Boston, which is where the Smith family resides. her research note Tuesday that the fair value for May in both acquisition and stand- There are also several regional operations that Federated could pursue, such as alone scenarios is $36 a share. In her note, Weinswig said, “We estimate the proba- Dillard’s, though the Dillard family reportedly does not want to sell its majority bility of a deal happening is more likely than not based on the following: (1) timing is stake. Other regionals worth considering include Bon-Ton and Boscov’s. right; (2) synergies abound; (3) geographic fit, and (4) leveraging best practices.” The other, ongoing murmur is that May would be broken up with Federated, She estimates that the probability of a deal happening stands at 50 to 60 percent. Nordstrom, and J.C. Penney snatching up its real estate, which includes mall an- Regarding the timing, she noted that the resignation of former May chairman and ceo chors in key markets. But the scenario most viable, from Wall Street’s perspective at Gene Kahn removes a “significant roadblock” to a potential Federated-May marriage. least, is an outright bid for May by Federated. With a price tag of $36 to $40 per share, Weinswig breaks down the value to $28 a share However, as reported in WWD last week, the stumbling point in the negotiations for the May department stores, $1.60 a share for the bridal group. Rounding out the $36 es- between the two department store retailers has been price. timate is the contribution of May’s credit card portfolio, which she valued at $6.34 a share. Still, Wayne Hood, an analyst at Prudential Equity Group, wrote in a research On the geographic front, Weinswig said the overlap is low, with 94 malls having an note Tuesday that he believes merger talks are “fluid,” and that his firm “continues at least one May and one Federated banner. to believe May could be acquired by Federated Department Stores and places the — With contributions from David Moin and Arthur Zaczkiewicz WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 9 WWD.COM Dillard’s Jettisons Nine West Brand By Vicki M. Young

NEW YORK — Dillard Department Stores has dropped Nine West from its lineup of brands. Meanwhile, analysts are closely watching Jones Apparel Group, which owns the Nine West brand, to get a read on how recent acquisitions will affect its bottom line. Sources said the decision to drop Nine West was made in connection with Dillard’s strategy to become more “upscale” in its merchandising. Julie Bull, director of investor relations at Dillard’s, declined comment on the move to drop Nine West. Regarding the retailer’s positioning to a more upscale format, she described it as an “ongoing strategy for a couple of years.” Executives at Jones Apparel Group could not be reached for comment. Jones is scheduled to report fourth-quarter earnings results today. “We wonder how the Barneys Nordstrom Earnings Surge 34.1% acquisition will impact Jones’ free cash By Ross Tucker $144.7 million, or $1.03 a share. Kozloff. “Although the company Sales for the period increased has surpassed its historical high flow…Barneys’ [capital expenditure] NEW YORK — Better-than-expect- 9.4 percent to $2.1 billion, com- of $350 reached in 1999, we be- ed sales and lower costs spurred pared with sales of $1.92 billion lieve that [Nordstrom] still has was limited to around $10 million, Nordstrom Inc. to double-digit in the year-ago period. opportunity to increase this fur- earnings gains for the fourth- Selling, general and adminis- ther given its more impactful but the stores may require additional quarter and year-end periods. trative costs fell 160 basis points merchandising and allocation The Seattle-based upscale de- to 26.9 percent of sales, or $565.5 system and the upcoming imple- investment. partment store chain reported a million. SG&A costs came in at mentation of markdown and re- ” — Virginia Genereux, Merrill Lynch 34.1 percent earnings gain to $140 28.5 percent of sales, or $547.5 plenishment optimization tools.” million, or $1 a diluted share, for million, in the year-ago period. Nordstrom’s investment in News of Dillard’s decision surfaced last week in Las Vegas during the three months ended Jan. 29. Emme P. Kozloff, an analyst technology has been the story for the World Shoe Association show, the footwear industry’s largest Comparatively, the company re- with Bernstein Research, be- A.G. Edwards analyst Robert U.S. trade show. It’s unclear whether the decision to drop Nine West ported earnings of $104.3 million, lieves the company stands out Buchanan as well. According to a affects merchandise for spring or fall. or 74 cents a share, in the same among its department store report from Buchanan, the re- Merrill Lynch analyst Virginia Genereux said in a research note period a year ago. brethren and has ample opportu- tailer spent $350 million on tech- that Jones’ 2005 revenue outlook “looks high to us, at $5.35 billion in “Our strongest regional per- nity to continue to grow. “[Nord- nology over the last four years. sales at the midpoint. This implies about $700 million in incremental formance was in the Southern strom] is a differentiated busi- The investments helped make sales growth over 2004, although Barneys [New York] and Maxwell states, and our best performing ness in the challenging area of significant improvements in in- Shoe are expected to contribute only $575 million of this.” merchandise divisions were department store retailing,” said ventory management. According A $575 million contribution includes $475 million from Barneys women’s and kids’ shoes, acces- Kozloff in a research report re- to the retailer, the company and $100 million from Maxwell. That implies that the core Jones sories, junior, women’s and leased a day before earnings spent $100 million on upgrading business “will be up about $125 million, although the wholesale men’s apparel,” said chief finan- were reported. its point-of-sales system. business is on balance planned flat for this year,” the analyst noted. cial officer Michael Koppel on Kozloff believes the imple- Earnings for the year vaulted Jones acquired Barneys New York and Maxwell Shoe in 2004. The the retailer’s conference call. mentation of new technology will 62 percent to $393.5 million, or analyst added, “We wonder how the Barneys acquisition will impact Wall Street analysts had ex- continue to drive sales for the $2.77 a share, from $242.8 mil- Jones’ free cash flow, a focus for value investors. Under its credit pected earnings per share of company. “In 2004 [Nordstrom] lion, or $1.76 a share, in the pre- agreement, Barneys’ [capital expenditure] was limited to around $10 $1.02. According to the company, delivered the second-highest vious year. million, but the stores may require additional investment.” earnings were negatively affected productivity rate of the depart- Sales advanced 10.6 percent to Genereux concluded that Jones’ multiple is in the “process of by a one-time, $4.7 million charge ment store group in terms of $7.13 billion from $6.45 billion. taking a permanent step down, as investors focus more on poor stemming from a change in its sales-per-square-foot. [Nord- SG&A costs dipped 110 basis return characteristics and the company’s relatively weaker lease accounting policy, a hit of 3 strom] has actually rebounded points to 28.3 percent of sales, or strategic positioning among retailers demanding smaller, more cents a share. Excluding the from a 2001 low of $321 to a new $2.02 billion, from 29.4 percent differentiated brands.” charge, earnings would have been high this year of $351,” said of sales, or $1.9 billion. Genereux said the challenges before Jones is not the fault of the current management team. Instead, the analyst said management’s visibility into earnings is diminishing because of several other ex- ternal factors, which include retailers forcing vendors to take more inventory risk and department store customers demanding smaller, more differentiated brands. January Retail Sales Up 1.8% The analyst said Jones’ management may not fully understand the newly acquired business, and that there may be underestima- By Kristi Ellis Steidtmann said department store sales, which tion of margin pressure in the core Jones business. have been in a long-term deflationary pattern, WASHINGTON — Retail sales in January in- “seem to have stabilized and turned around. creased at apparel, general merchandise and de- “Consumers are in a good position to spend,” partment stores, as retailers cleared holiday he said. “We are beginning to see job growth, in- merchandise, consumers cashed in gift cards terest rates are low and there is still a lot of Sears Lowers 4Q Estimates and discounting bolstered business. mortgage refinancing money.” Sales at apparel and accessories stores, which Steve Spiwak, senior economist at Retail For- NEW YORK — Sears, Roebuck and change will also affect income fell in December, bounced back in January and ward, attributed the increases to a number of fac- Co. said it was adjusting its fourth- statement classification by in- rose a seasonally adjusted 1.8 percent to $16.2 bil- tors, including gift cards, an uptick in the stock quarter earnings, reducing per- creasing depreciation expense lion, while sales at general merchandise stores market, strong demand and a multibillion-dollar share earnings by up to 10 cents and reducing the cost of sales, went up 0.9 percent to $43.5 billion and sales at de- dividend given stockholders by Microsoft in to correct an accounting error re- buying and occupancy. partment stores inched higher by 0.3 percent to December. lating to its leasing transactions. In another move, Sears $18.03 billion, according to the Commerce De- “Microsoft played a big role in last month’s The roughly 5 percent reduc- changed the classification of cash partment’s retail sales report released Tuesday. sales performance,” Spiwak said. “Microsoft tion in profits is due to a change flows from its credit card busi- In the overall economy, retail sales fell 0.3 paid out a huge dividend that nearly matched in how the company amortizes ness to investing activities, rather percent last month after a jump of 1.1 percent in the tax rebates of 2001, and that provided a big its construction allowances. than as operating activities. December, as car sales plummeted and offset stimulus and drove high-end sales.” Previously, the allowances Sears, which posted $36.1 bil- gains in apparel. Spiwak said the Microsoft dividend helped were amortized as a reduction lion in revenue in 2004, expects “One of the things that happened in January lead to the biggest increase ever in personal in- of depreciation expense over to close its merger with Kmart is a lot of holiday-focused retailers” got a boost come in December on a monthly basis. the estimated useful life of the Holding Corp. in mid-March. The from gift cards, said Carl Steidtmann, chief econ- “There were a lot of strong tailwinds heading property or equipment, but now new, 3,800-store entity, Sears omist at Deloitte Research. “When people spend into January,” he said, adding that retailers such as they will be amortized as a re- Holding Corp., is expected to [gift card money], it is not quite as price sensitive American Eagle Outfitters, Talbot’s and duction of rent expense over the earn nearly double in revenue because it is not their own money, so what you Abercrombie & Fitch all posted double-digit sales lease term of that property or and be the third largest retailer are seeing this year and will see in years to come increases in January, which bolstered overall ap- equipment, the company said. in the United States. are better margin results in January.” parel retail sales. According to the retailer, this — Amy S. Choi 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005

In the Mainstream

By Evan Clark NEW YORK — On the surface, fashion shoots, with their cam- eras, sets and the preening of impracticably thin, superficially perfect models, are all about, well, surface. Such was the case last month at the shoot for Gloria Vanderbilt’s fall consumer ad campaign, which features a trio of fashion’s “It’’ girls, who are so hot that they can get by with just their first names — Kate, Gisele and Daria. Beneath the sleek exterior, though, the shoot was part of a larger drive by powerhouse vendors such as Jones Apparel Group to make “moderate” less synony- mous with “boring” by improving styling and ramping up marketing. “The main focus is to show our existing customer that we’re moving forward,” said Jack Gross, chief executive officer of Gloria Vanderbilt, a division of Jones. The campaign is also an overture to customers in the 28- to 35-year-old range. That target is younger than the brand’s current customer, who has a medi- an age of about 39. In addition to attracting new Clockwise from top: Daria customers, adding this marketing Werbowy, Kate Moss and flash to the moderately priced Gisele Bündchen; part of Gloria Vanderbilt is a way of pay- the shoot’s crew; Moss ing homage to the brand’s roots and Werbowy laugh as a pioneer of designer denim between shots; Moss in the Seventies. It takes a large, chats with photographer brand-oriented company to pay Vinoodh Matadin. this kind of homage, though. Jones declined to give specifics, but such a shoot with Kate Moss, Gisele Bündchen and Daria Werbowy — yes, they do have last names — can cost $300,000 once the models, pho- tographers, stylists and location fees are paid. The campaign, which will bow in September fashion magazines, is the brand’s first national ad push in recent years and is supported by an increased budget compared with a year earlier. The expenditure, however, will help support the line in all its incarnations. Jones produces the brand’s jeans, tops, handbags and footwear, while outside licensees market swimwear, intimate apparel and watches. “The moderate zone, you’re either big or you’re not in it,” Gross said. Gloria Vanderbilt’s annual wholesale volume is about $500 million. The campaign will also soft- en the ground for the 2006 intro- duction of higher-priced Gloria Vanderbilt Couture jeans, retailing from $120 to $150-plus. “Sometimes where you start is

erbilt Vamps It Up It erbilt Vamps where you finish,” Gross said. For one day, the shoot over- took studios one and five at Pier 59 Studios, part of the Chelsea Piers complex in Manhattan, sandwiched between the Hudson River and the West Side Highway. With high ceilings and white walls and sunlight from a southern exposure, studio five was nd used as a prep area where models and crew, when they weren’t occupied with preparing hair and makeup, lounged on a couple of black leather couches and picked at a buffet of clementines, fruit salad and other foods. The models, dressed as casu- ally as the crew members, stood

Va out mostly for their slender WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 11 WWD.COM

frames and well-delineated fa- cial features. In some ways, the three “It’’ girls were prettier in that girl- next-door way, or maybe just less intimidating, before the stylists got to work — teasing and sculpt- ing hair with hairspray and steaming curling irons. Werbowy, in jeans and a T- shirt, had her makeup done as she sat, her long legs dangling from a folding table facing the windows. The result was dramatic, with deep emerald green eye makeup that was arresting in person, but intended for the camera. Bündchen gets a “Welcome to Hollywood,” touch-up (left); said Gross, surveying the scene. Werbowy holds a pose. At times, the models had a team of four perfecting their natural beauty: a manicurist, two hairstylists and one onlook- er, ready like a surgeon’s assistant with just the right tool. Running throughout the studio was Vida, Bündchen’s Yorkshire Terrier — a pink hair tie gathering the fur on her head into a ponytail. When Moss arrived, protect- 2005 Dallas Market Center 2005 Dallas Market ed from the wintry weather by a © fur coat, she was greeted by Vida, who reared up on her hind legs and barked. Studio one was the opposite of the prep area, all black and buzzing with energy while pho- tographers Inez Van Lamsweerde and her husband, Vinoodh Matadin, worked with the camera, and a tailor and two seam- stresses made last-minute alter- ations. A computer was hooked up to the digital camera to in- stantly proof shots. Gathered in front of the hot pink neon swan (the brand’s well-known trademark), the three models struck a pose rem- iniscent of the one made famous by “Charlie’s Angels” in the Seventies. A cadre of stylists made last- minute preparations and held light meters in front of the models’ faces and, once everyone cleared out of the way, one crew member waved smoke from a smoke machine toward the models with a piece of cardboard. “It’s so sick,” said a member of the crew after looking at the shots on the computer. “It’s like the holy trinity.” In fashion modeling, maybe. It takes more than just long legs to fill those jeans, though. “It’s about the body language of the girls,” Van Lamsweerde said. “They all have the ability to project. They all know what it is to become someone [else] with hair and makeup. It’s ideal. I have to give very little direction and then they’ll take it.” Jones’ senior vice president of marketing, Stacy Lastrina, who was ultimately running the C & BE SEEN show at the shoot, was aiming to freshen up the brand. It’s been one year since Dallas Market Center® opened the doors of its dynamic apparel venue, FashionCenterDallas®. “My job is to keep the brand connected, relevant and evolved And to celebrate, we’re holding our March Apparel & Accessories and Gift & Home markets at the same time for virtually infinite as brands are one of our most cross-buying opportunities. It’s also your chance to take a first look at Fall. Come experience inspiration on many different levels. critical assets,” said Lastrina, 214.655.6100 or 800.325.6587 dallasmarketcenter.com who coordinates many of the firm’s branding efforts. Women’s & Children’s Apparel & Accessories • March 31– April 3 “Constant investment in a brand and maintaining its rele- Gift & Home Accessories • March 31 – April 3 vance is more cost effective than fixing a problem,” she said, es- pousing the penny of prevention AT DA L L AS M ARKE T C EN T ER is worth a pound of cure approach to branding. “Everyone needs a face-lift once in a while.” 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 WWD.COM

contrasting colors of fuchsia and Chinatown, pearl. One side of the Chinatown Bond No. bottle features fuchsia flowers 9’s newest Bond No. 9 Channels Chinatown with a pearl background, while scent. the other side features pearl flow- NEW YORK — In May, Bond No. fashion and [the fragrance] is in damom and peach blossom, an ers with a fuchsia background. 9 will take a cue from the that spirit,” she said. “It’s a desti- edible flower. “In Asia, they eat Rahme said that the bright world’s fastest-growing market nation neighborhood for both a lot of flowers,” said Rahme. pink color was chosen as an alter- with the launch of its newest tourists and New Yorkers.” “And people love the idea of native to red, the color that many scent, Chinatown. Chinatown, Created by Aurelien Giuchard food — it’s about comfort.” people associate with China. the company’s 22nd fragrance, of Givaudan, Chinatown features For Chinatown, the signature Bond No. 9’s subway token in- was inspired by a New York top notes of peach blossom; mid- Bond No. 9 star-shaped bottle is signia is included on the bottom neighborhood and it has a decid- dle notes of peony, gardenia and right corner of the bottle. edly Asian flair — from the Ming tuberose, and base notes of car- Chinatown will retail for $178 Dynasty-inspired graphics print- damom and dark woods. “This is for a 3.4 oz. bottle. It will also be ed on the bottle to its notes of for a young girl, an avant-garde BEAUTY BEAT available for $45 per ounce, ei- peach blossom and cardamom. woman,” said Rahme. “It’s not a ther in a 2-oz., $25 spray flacon or New York boutiques, as well as in Much like the country from classic fragrance — it’s for more decorated in a plum blossom pat- in an assortment of Bond No. 9 Saks Fifth Avenue and about 100 which many of its residents origi- of a young crowd, someone who tern, inspired by a porcelain gin- decorated bottles, which range in boutiques and spas nationwide, nated, Chinatown is growing rap- is adventurous in fashion, food ger jar dating back to China’s price from $40 to $70. A variety of according to Rahme. Industry idly, according to Laurice Rahme, and fragrance.” Ming Dynasty. The original jar, ex- vintage or art bottles, ranging sources estimate Chinatown founder of Bond No. 9. “On the Rahme said that it was im- plained Rahme, features a navy from $60 to $200 each, will also could bring in up to $500,000 in periphery of Chinatown, you’re portant to feature “edible notes” blue and white pattern, while be available. The fragrance will first-year sales. finding new designer shops and in the fragrance, such as car- Chinatown’s bottle is covered in be carried at Bond No. 9’s three Bond No. 9 recently expanded its distribution to include eight Harvey Nichols doors in the U.K., will hit Middle Eastern markets in March and is currently in negotiations to launch in Italy, Germany and Spain in April, according to Rahme. Upcoming plans for the company include custom fragrances inspired by specific New York addresses, which will be available exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue in the fall. Rahme said that she has her eye on several locations for new Bond No. 9 boutiques, including the West Village and Harlem. The company has slated the launch of a signature makeup line, called Talk of the Town, for spring 2006. — Bryn Kenny

Wella Net Up, Sales Down BERLIN — In the first half of the fiscal year ended in December, Wella grew operative earnings in its core professional hair care and prestige cosmetics and fragrances businesses by 10.9 percent. Earnings before interest and taxes reached 204.5 million euros, or $265.6 million at current exchange rates. Adjusted for currency effects, EBIT in these core segments grew 18.6 percent, Wella said. First-half sales in the professional and prestige divisions, on the other hand, slipped a nominal 6.5 percent to 1.21 billion euros, or $1.57 billion. Adjusted for currency and consolidation effects, sales for the period rose 1.8 percent. Wella’s acquisition by Procter & Gamble in 2003 — and the company’s subsequent reor- ganization — make it more diffi- cult to compare group sales and earnings for the period, Wella noted. The consumer hair care division was transferred in stages to P&G and, in October 2004, Wella sold its North American business to P&G. Due to the latter transaction, group profits after taxes surged 140 percent to 215.6 million euros, or $280.1 million. Group EBIT and sales picture were less positive, however. Operative earnings for the group declined 35.3 percent to 135.6 million euros, or $176.1 million. Adjusted for currency effects, EBIT slipped 2.7 percent. Consumer sales fell a nominal 43.2 percent in the first six months of the fiscal year, and total group sales dipped 16.3 percent to 1.48 billion euros, or $1.92 billion. — Melissa Drier WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 13 WWD.COM Government Appeals China Safeguard Injunction

By Kristi Ellis preliminary injunction, without “improperly encroaches upon neous standard for irreparable completely disregarding the in- permitting us to examine USA- the constitutional power of the harm” by identifying the govern- terests of third parties,” primari- WASHINGTON — The U.S. Justice ITA’s declarants, the trial court President” because it impedes ment’s “mere acceptance” of ly domestic fiber, textile and ap- Department has filed an appeal issued a sweeping injunction ef- discussions between the U.S. and threat-based petitions as causing parel producers, and workers. seeking to overturn an injunction fectively barring United States China. importers harm, even though im- Justice Department lawyers barring the government from re- trade officials from implement- argued that USA-ITA does not viewing or accepting China safe- ing [the safeguard mechanism] The preliminary injunction has suspended have the right to challenge the guard petitions based on the during a critical period for tex- government’s deliberations and threat of market disruption. tile trade and from taking steps the government’s review process for the CIT does not have jurisdiction Government lawyers asked to protect our domestic markets to consider the lawsuit. The gov- the U.S. Court of Appeals for the from threatened harm.” seven weeks and created uncertainty ernment also said the interagency Federal Circuit to send the case In its appeal, the government Committee for the Implementa- back to the Court of International also focused on these key points: about the timing of safeguard quotas. tion of Textile Agreements, the Trade in Manhattan, which im- ● The trial court “erred” in target of the lawsuit, is exempt posed the injunction, with in- barring the U.S. from self-initiat- ● The trial court “misap- porters themselves have de- from the procedural require- structions to dismiss the lawsuit ing safeguards because USA-ITA plied” the standard for USA-ITA clared to the court that the harm ments of the Administrative filed by importers. The suit chal- did not request such relief. U.S. to win the case. has already occurred. Procedures Act because its deci- lenges federal authority to im- lawyers also said the injunction ● The CIT employed an “erro- ● The trial court “erred by sions involve foreign policy. pose limits on Chinese textile and apparel imports. The legal drama playing out in courtrooms in New York and Washington stems from an action brought by the U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles & Apparel, which sued five federal agencies on Dec. 1 alleging that the government violated its own published regulations, as well as the Ad- ministrative Procedures Act, when it agreed to accept safeguard petitions based on the threat of market disruption as op- posed to actual market disruption. ™ At the center of the debate is a STYLEMAX safeguard mechanism China agreed to when it joined the World Trade Organization. The FALL 2005 provision allows an importing nation to impose one-year quotas MARCH 19-22, 2005 when it determines Chinese textile and apparel exports are threatening to cause or are causing market disruption. In the U.S., a coalition of domestic textile, fiber, apparel and labor groups filed 12 safeguard petitions targeting $1.9 billion in Chinese imports for further quota restraints. The timing of the peti- EXPERIENCE FASHION. tions and lawsuit is linked to the elimination of global textile and OVER 4,000 OF THE NATION’S apparel quotas on Jan. 1, which THE MERCHANDISE MART CHICAGO has stirred worldwide concern TOP LINES. over China’s potential to monopo- lize production and displace mil- EXPERIENCE CONVENIENCE. lions of workers. The preliminary injunction ONE EASY-TO-SHOP SHOW has suspended the government’s FLOOR, DISCOUNTED HOTEL AND TRAVEL RATES review process for seven weeks and created uncertainty about the EXPERIENCE EXCITEMENT. timing of safeguard quotas. The domestic coalition behind the safeguard petitions is concerned ATTEND FASHION SHOWS AND it may be forced to refile its ENJOY MARKET PARTIES threat-based safeguard petitions as actual market disruption cases EXPERIENCE MORE. if the court cases drag on too long. Imports from China have now been streaming in quota-free, but NEW ACCESSORY AND the trade data for January from CONTEMPORARY RESOURCES the U.S. Commerce Department PREMIERING AT STYLEMAX won’t be released until March. The Justice Department, in ALWAYS GROWING the appeal filed Monday night, ALWAYS NEW said: “The U.S. Association of ALWAYS THE ULTIMATE EXPERIENCE Importers of Textiles & Apparel has no rights under the Constitu- tion, any international agree- THE MERCHANDISE MART, CHICAGO ment, or any statute or regulation For discounted hotel and airline rates, to contest the Executive’s accept- log on to our Web site or call Mart ance of requests from domestic Travel Services at 800.528.8700. industry representatives to consider whether to invoke…a key For more information or to register for multilaterally agreed mechanism STYLEMAX, visit our Web site or call specifically designed to address 800.677.6278. threats of market disruption from imports of Chinese textile and www.merchandisemart.com apparel products. “Nevertheless, in response to the complaint and request for 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005

Olympic medalist Amanda Beard in a suit from Speedo’s Lifeguard line in the new SI Swimsuit issue.

Athletes Join Supermodels In SI Swimsuit Issue

By Melanie Kletter

NEW YORK — What do Carolyn Murphy and Olympic swimming gold medalist Amanda Beard have in common? The Sports Illustrated Swimsuit issue. This year’s edition features a slew of athletes, along with the requisite scantily clad models lounging about beaches and exotic locales worldwide. Among the athletes in the 2005 issue, which hit newsstands Tuesday, are Beard, softball player Jennie Finch, tennis star Venus Williams and bas- ketball player Lauren Jackson. “The athletes are so healthy looking and they look great in swimsuits,” said Diane Smith, editor- in-chief of the highly coveted annual issue. “This year, we took a very sporty angle for the issue, so the athletes fit in perfectly for that.” SI Swimsuit has had athletes model before — Serena Williams has posed for the last two years and Anna Kournikova has also been featured — but this is the most in the same issue. “I am very comfortable in a swimsuit, so this wasn’t a stretch for me,” said Beard, who won three medals at the ▲ Summer Games in Athens and Carolyn Murphy, in a Letarte by has been featured in photo Lisa Cabrinha suit, graces the cover spreads in such magazines as of the annual swimsuit issue. FHM. “It’s good to see more toned women in this issue and U.S. women’s soccer team. for people to see that beautiful As another gimmick, the women have other talents.” issue comes with 18 model trad- There are still plenty of the ing cards and its online edition requisite model-on-the-beach has been beefed up with more shots, but the latest issue also behind-the-scenes photos and shows more active pursuits. the launch of a digital edition “The hardest thing is to take that sells for $5.99. The print a model on the beach and do issue has a circulation of 4.5 mil- something different,” said lion and is one of the most wide- Smith, who with her team ly read issues of any magazine spends the entire year working in the world, reaching an esti- ▲ on the magazine. “By using the The magazine has a decidedly sporty feel. mated 59 million adults, accord- sports theme, she is on the beach ing to media research firm MRI. but doing an activity like snowboarding, river raft- The SI Swimsuit issue is one of the company’s ing, fly fishing and scuba diving. It gave us a new bestsellers and provides a big boon for swimwear angle. There are also shots done underwater, as well firms. Many create special suits for the issue, and as ones with jerseys bodypainted on the models.” the editors spend months scouring the market for The year’s publication, the 42nd edition and the newcomers and interesting swimwear. This year, 10th stand-alone issue, also got some extra hype new labels featured include Christina Liquori, from NBC’s new reality show called “Sports Speedo’s new high-end Platinum line, Island Illustrated Swimsuit Model Search,” which chron- Company, Juicy Couture’s new swim line and KGB icled the contest for a new face for the magazine. by Kristi Grinna. Among the more established Alicia Hall, a 19-year-old from Las Vegas, won labels in the issue are Calvin Klein, Gottex, the nationwide search and is featured in this issue Nautica, Nike, Ralph Lauren, Guess and Roxy. and also signed a contract with Next Model Smith said her team this year sorted through Management. Other big-name models this year are about 10,000 suits to find the roughly 100 that are Frankie Ryder and Yamila Diaz Rahi, with Carolyn featured in the magazine. “We like to make sure Murphy gracing the cover. There are also four male we have every shape and size,” she added. athletes shot with their significant others, includ- The shoots were done in a range of internation- ing Dallas Cowboys receiver Keyshawn Johnson al locales, including a ski mountain in Chile, a and his wife, Shikiri, and Miami Dolphins quarter- river-rafting colony in Honduras and beaches in back A.J. Feely and girlfriend Heather Mitts of the Croatia, Belize, the Bahamas and Thailand. WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 15 WWD.COM

Serena Buffett Drops Williams Speedo N.A. President Named in Nike.

NEW YORK — The Warnaco Group has named Sheree Waterson as Nike Shares president of Speedo North America, part of its fast-growing swimwear division. Waterson replaces Susan Guensch, who left the company last fall, By Meredith Derby said Craig Brommers, Speedo’s vice president of marketing. Waterson was most recently vice president of women’s apparel at Levi Strauss & NEW YORK — Investment guru Warren Co., and has also held executive positions at Wet Seal, Contempo Buffett is apparently losing faith in Nike Inc. Casuals and Mervyn’s. — at least in the short term. Waterson will oversee all aspects of Speedo’s design, development, Buffett’s Berkshire Hathaway Inc., which merchandising, marketing and sales. She reports to Kathy Van Ness, operates predominantly as an insurance executive vice president of Warnaco Swimwear. company, sold more than half its stake in the Warnaco has been rapidly building up its Speedo division in the footwear and apparel firm’s common stock last year, as well as its entire swimwear business. The company re- during the fourth quarter, according a Form cently launched a high-end swimwear line under the Speedo Platinum 13-F filed with the Securities and Exchange label and introduced Axcelerate Engineered by Speedo, a sportswear Commission on Monday. line that is hitting stores now for spring. Warnaco also bought the The company now owns 2.5 million shares Ocean Pacific Apparel Corp. business last year and will introduce of Nike, or roughly 1 percent of Nike’s 264.1 Michael Kors swimwear for cruise 2006. million total shares outstanding. Previously, Buffett’s firm owned six million shares. According to Merrill Lynch analyst Virginia Genereux, shares of Nike traded between $76.62 and $92.43 during the fourth quarter, making Berkshire’s profit between $268.2 million and $323.5 million. Genereux noted in a Tuesday research report that Berkshire’s sale of the Nike shares “represents the partial unwinding of a three-and-a-half-year-old position.” Shares of Nike were scooped up by Berkshire around June 2001. Berkshire sold some around June 2002 and then bought ambitious more around September 2002. An important point stemming from the stock sale is Buffett’s “astute” investment ability, Genereux bold explained. “Berkshire previously owned Nike for two quarters in 2000, effectively (and quite profitably) strad- dling two big earnings misses in February of 2000 and creative 2001,” she said. As a result, Genereux said “while several investors have responded that Nike looks more com- pelling than many other daring large cap names, and valua- tion is not stretched, we believe that Nike fundamen- tally remains a top-line story, and that top line is slowing, especially relative to the stellar streak of the past 18 months.” Indeed, in other forms filed with the SEC on Monday, institutional investment firm Janus Capital Management upped its investment in Nike by 5 percent in the fourth quarter, while Fidelity Management &Research Corp. also beefed up its stake by 7.5 percent, the analyst noted. Wellington Capital new Management, however, + decreased its stake of Nike shares by 19 percent. resources more Incidentally, the same Monday Form 13-F filing also showed that Berkshire Hathaway owns 5.3 million shares of Costco Wholesale, April 7-11, 2005 15.4 million shares of Gap ® Inc., up from a prior stake of © 2005 AMC, Inc. AMERICASMART IATLANTA 15 million, and 8 million shares of Pier 1 Imports. 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 WWD.COM A Big Shiner NEW YORK — Like a sprinkling of fairy dust, glitter and glitz will lend a dose of sparkle to fall. Metallicized fabrics — a hit since last fall when they appeared on such runways as Donna Karan and Prada — set last week’s runways aglow. And judging from the selection at last month’s European Preview — a hint of what’s to come at next month’s Première Vision fabric fair in Paris — metallics will continue to shine their way through to spring ’06, and, many say, beyond. “Evening looks are fast becoming more accepted for day, and metallics are a perfect example of this,” said François Damide, president of the U.S. division of French mill Bucol, the land of plenty when it comes to metallics, with a variety of jacquards and brocades as well as more subtle silks and silk blends. “When Miuccia Prada used our metallic jacquard poche for her spring 2002 collection, I think it really brought those looks to another level.” The fabrics, which were stored in Bucol’s archives, were quite traditional in feel, added Damide — “until Miuccia and her team recol- ored them to include more tarnished metallics.” That’s exactly what some retailers are saying will make metallics a hit come fall. “The most notable difference I’m seeing for fall is that the AND JOHN AQUINO MITRA ROBERT PHOTOS BY From left: Metallic fabrics at Zac Posen, Nanette Lepore, Proenza Schouler and Matthew Williamson. metallics are more burnished in color and not as shiny,” said Robert Burke, vice president and fabrics offer a “good base. Anything works off of gold or silver, it really serves to balance senior fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman. “I things.” Highlights from the runways, she added, included a silver dress and drop-waist skirt like them best when they’re mixed with tradi- at Behnaz Sarafpour and metallic print silk dresses at Zac Posen. tional fabrics like tweeds and velvets.” “We’re still feeling very strongly about metallics,” offered Scott Tepper, fashion director at And the trend, he added, is fast becoming a Henri Bendel. “The uses of metallics I [saw] on the [fall] runway are really a natural progres- classic look. “Metallics act like neutrals,” said sion from the ones that were on the runway for spring. The designers really found a way to Burke. “They go with everything and are easy make these fabrics work for fall.” to wear.” Among his picks for fall were several Tepper liked the bold looks at Oscar de la Renta, Matthew Williamson and Anna Sui, as well as selections at Proenza Schouler. the more subtle touches on men’s wear fabrics on various runways. “Using metallic on heavier fab- Julie Gilhart, fashion director at Barneys rics really tones down the look, which is also important,” he added. New York, has found that anything gold or sil- For Joan Kaner, senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus, metallics ver has been selling quite well. “Things that “add a luster to everything. They’re very appealing to our customers, who continue to re- are reflective, that shimmer and shine, are re- spond to them. They love shine.” Kaner said she loves metallics mixed into tweeds for day, ally attractive to the eye, and we’ve gotten a and sees metallicized fabrics as the perfect look for night. “Everyone loves something spe- great response from our customers. I think cial, and these fabrics make for very special clothing,” she said, adding that tweeds shot with that will continue going forward,” she said. A copper at Nanette Lepore were a highlight. fan of metallic looks herself, Gilhart said the — Daniela Gilbert

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More Information TRIPLE FIVE SOUL WAL-MART YVES SAINT LAURENT* Retailers: 800-358-6678 Exhibitors: 877-904-FAME (3263) or 800-521-0227 FAME is produced by Business Journals, Inc. WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 17 Obituaries WWD.COM Fairchild’s Emilio Marin Graphic Artist Henry Wolf, 79 NEW YORK — Emilio Marin, a former design artist for Women’s Wear Daily By Jeff Bercovici and 43-year employee of Fairchild Publications, died Thursday of compli- NEW YORK — Henry Wolf, a graphic artist who helped define cations arising from cancer. He was 64. the postwar years as a golden era for magazine design through Born in Manhattan, Marin was a his work at Harper’s Bazaar and Esquire, died at his lifelong resident of New York. He Manhattan home Monday. He was 79. spent his entire career at Fairchild, The cause of death was not determined, a Hearst spokes- joining in September 1961 as an artist woman said Tuesday. and retiring in May 2004. Born in Vienna in 1925, Wolf studied art in Austria and France, Outside of work, Marin’s interests steeping himself in a European sensibility that would continue to were theater and old movies, accord- flavor his work long after he had become an American. In that ing to his brother, Victor Marin, with regard, he was like Alexey Brodovitch and Alexander Liberman, whom he shared a home. He fre- the design legends with whom he is sometimes compared. quently donated money to interna- Wolf moved to the U.S. in 1941 and served three years in the tional children’s charities. Army during World War II. In 1952, he became art director of Two of Marin is survived by his brother, Esquire, giving the magazine the iconic look it retained through- Wolf’s who will hold a memorial gathering out the Fifties and Sixties. “Before that, it was a very conserva- creative for family and friends on Saturday at 1 tive magazine in terms of design,” recalled graphic designer covers. p.m. at his home in the Bronx. Seymour Chwast, who was at Esquire when Wolf arrived. “He — J.B.

M D R ! l ar lu ! Na E C ! s ! nd n & Blu Hu ! Ce De AG an ! ! Bel Da Way ! ! Jake Kay Linda Alice ! ! 7 For Al! French ! ! Renfrew ! Miller Girl ! Citizens of Earl Jean ! Skirtin Arou Ben Sherm Blue Cult DKNY ! ! ! ! ! Hanky Panky Walter Jeans ! ! ! C&C Californi n Bella Dahl Paige Premium ! ! Cambio America Lilly Pulitzer ! ! JP & Mattie! Bellum Corey Lynn Allen B. by Allen Schw Free People ! Red Engine ! ! Fr ! Hype Handbags ! Diane Vo! Hale Bob! Michael Stars Silver Jeans ! ! Joie ! ! Blue 2 Jeans ! ! Bejeweled! Chip & CynthiaPepper Steffe Le Tigre ! ! ! Finley Hype Votre NomAdrienne Paris Vittadini Handbags ! ! Bella Dahl Frankie B. ! ! ! Diabless Jeans C&C California ! ! ! Grassroots Oscar de la Renta ag ! Sigrid Olsen Hale Bob ! Max Studio Byron Lars Beauty Mark ! Donald J. Pliner Handbags Joe’s Jeans ! Rebecca! Taylor ! Finley ! ! Mark ! Citizens of HumanityFashionista ! ! ! changed it all around. Everything How & Wen Bejeweled ! Custo Barcelona ! ! about the page was open to him.” Hype HandbJoie ! Urban Outfitters Derek Green ! Charlotte Tarantola Gold Hawk ! ! Grassroots! elli Esquire’s bold new design Mandalay Shoshanna Enyce ! ! Laundry! by Shelli Segal caught the eye of film director NovielloRayure, Bloom !Paris ! Fashionista ! ! Adriano GoldschmiedBuffalo Jeans Robert Benton, then an art major Shades ! Jheri Richards ! ! Hype aj ! ! ! at the University of Texas. “It was Chip & Pepper M Trina Turk ! staggering,” said Benton, who ! ! Joe’s Jeans Enyce BCBG Max Azria Ella MossGold Hawk ! Diane Von FurstenburgHollywood Jeans David Meister! Laundry by Sh would become one of Wolf’s clos- ! Language Sharagano ! ! ! ett ! Noun-Paris ! ! est friends. “It was a kind of design Ginger & Java ! Major Delema! ! Blujeanious M.A.G.Nan I’d never seen, a kind of imagina- ! ! ! Moss Rachel Abroms ! nt tive, bold, slightly Cubist concept ! acy Reese How and Wen Tr 7 For All Mankind new! of how you organized visual infor- M.A.G. ! Da Nang Language ! Jheri Richards ! mation on the page. He had a great Generra Jean Paul Da’mage! Blue Dot ! ! Puma Sarah Pacini Ginger & Java ! sense of the scale and timing of a Nicole Miller ! ! Charlotte Tarantola Lafayette 148! ! ! ! ! Mogg Jeans magazine, and of the peculiar Jax Autumn Cashmere DKNY e Hobo !International ! ! Elie Tahari Sportswear ! Oscar de la Re beauty of magazines.” resourcesThree Dots ! +more! Project E ! Benton moved to New York and ! Renfr Project E Blue Cult Generra Milly Perse Lacoste Sanctuary and many more!! Hollywood Jeans ! ! got a job assisting Wolf and became ! ! ! ! Lafayette 148 Pa ! ! Ce Ce Co. ! art director himself when Wolf New Frontier ! Lulu Guinness AccessoriesPoleci ! Teri Jon ! jumped to Harper’s Bazaar in 1958. Antik Denim ! Cole Poleci ! Sarah Sk ! Cynthia EileenSteffe Fisher Jean Paul Da’mage ! Wolf was also known for his ! ! ! Miller Girl ! ! Lacoste Noviello Bloom great fondness for females, added Lulu Guinness Accessories ! ! Red Engine Blue 2 Jeans ! Plenty! Benton. “Part of my job was to sit ! Sacred TBlueeenflo Jax ! nf Z Brand Jeans ! ! Plenty ! ! ! with the girls whose hearts he ! Garfield & Marks Tee had broken and try to talk them Carolina AmatoEarl Jean! Sanctuary ! Hobo International ! Nanette Lepore ! ! ! Lucky Jeans Co. Silver Jeans rk off the ledge.” ! FRX ! Noun-Paris Michael! Stars Petro Zillia Graphic designer Milton Glaser ! ! nuk Jeans Custo Barcelona Kenneth Cole ! got his start as a freelance illustra- Petro Zillia Big Star Jeans ! James !Perse Trina Tute Ya ! Rebecca Taylor ! tor working for Wolf ’s Esquire— ! ! ! Wal and also worked for him at Show Ted Baker LondonAllen B. by Allen Schwartz Sacred Blue ! Graham Collection ! Helen Wang ! Sigrid Olsen magazine in the early Sixties. ! ! ! Nicole MillerParameter Ted Baker London Wa Linda RichardsMax Studio! ! “There was something about Henry Camp Beverly Hills Kay Unger! ! ! CP Shades ! acy Reese that made you want to please him Tark 1 ! ! Tr nd Harlow James Jeans Rayure, Paris ! and do your best,” Glaser said. “He Betsy Johnson French Connection! White & ! s ! Tark 1 White & Warren! Donald !J. Pliner Handbags ! ! Z Bra had high standards and was com- Alice & Trixie Shoshanna tre Nom Paris ! mitted to some idea of quality. You ! ! ! ! Vo m Lilly PulitzerMandalayNew Frontier TKE ! wouldn’t take shortcuts in the job Cosabella Hard T Kay Celine! ! ! ! ! ! you were doing for Henry.” ! Three Dots and Jeans ! ... yne Rogers Wolf worked at Bazaar from 1958 Beth BowleyCambio America Free People nuk Jeans to 1961, collaborating with photog- ! ! Calter Furstenburg! Panky Jakes DryMattie GoodLe TigreDelemaLepore Paige PremiumRachel RobertAbroms Denim GrahamSharaganoAround CollectionJon OutfittersWa Ya Jeans® raphers including Richard Avedon AMERICASMART PREMIERE and Melvin Sokolsky. “Some of the men’s & women’s juried collections featuring Premium Denim | April 8–10, 2005 greatest covers of all time were by Henry Wolf,” said Bazaar’s current 11,000 + linesAtlanta Women’s & Children’s Apparel /Accessories Market® editor in chief Glenda Bailey. “People still say, ‘Oh, remember Atlanta International Bridal & Special Occasion MarketSM when Harper’s Bazaar did this?’ April 7–11, 2005 and it was always by Henry Wolf,” said Sam Shahid, creative director of Shahid & Co., who worked with Register Today! Visit us online at Wolf at the Scali, McCabe, Sloves ad agency in the mid-Seventies. AmericasMart.com/Apparel or Wolf ’s funeral will be held at the © 2005 AMC, Inc. call 800.ATL.MART or 404.220.3000. Plaza Community Chapel here on Thursday at 1 p.m. He is survived by his sister, Joan Slawson. 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 WWD West L.A.Fashion Calendar Switch Stirs Anxiety

By Nola Sarkisian-Miller

LOS ANGELES — A revised schedule in which fashion week and the contemporary apparel market here will overlap next month but fail to coincide with the general market for the first time is causing some confusion and concern about business and attendance at the events. The newly branded Los Angeles Contemporary Market, featuring Designers & Agents and ENK International’s Brighte show, is set for for March 17-22 and has the support of the New Mart, Cooper Design Space and Gerry Building. The shows will take place during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, which is March 16-20, at Smashbox Studios. The dates are a departure because they are weeks earlier than the general market — for misses and juniors — slated for April 8-12 and backed by the California Market Center. Many industry executives had champi- oned the changes, saying that shows held closer to Fashion Coterie in New York would help streamline the buying process and close production orders earlier, as well as assist European lines that usually adhere to an earlier production schedule. But retailers, showrooms and even vendors said the split made them unsure of how to conduct business and what to expect in terms of attendance. Lisa Elliot, owner of EM “I think it’s terrible, and we’ll end up Productions showroom at Lynn Girard, a California Market having two mediocre markets instead of Cooper Center Design Space, Center showroom owner, says two one great one,” said designer Sue Wong, doesn’t favor two markets. markets can help boost business. who will participate in the fashion shows TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY HEIDI GIBBS; GIRARD ELLIOT PHOTO BY at Smashbox Studios. “In the past, lots of at the Cooper Design Space, represent- Michael Fink, senior fashion director be attending fashion shows since we major store buyers would attend my fash- ing Fig, Grey Ant and Heike Jarick. at Saks Fifth Avenue, said: “I’m a little want to see the product in the showroom, ion shows while visiting the market. Now, Barneys New York and Saks Fifth torn about it. We will have been going not on the runway.” I’m not sure when they’re attending. I’ll Avenue are among the retailers that have nonstop for more than six weeks, so it Budget concerns are a priority for probably have to send DVDs of the fash- said their plans are uncertain for the Los would have been nice to regroup and showroom owners, who entertain retail- ion show to buyers.” Angeles events. Most fashion cognoscenti switch into that California market sense ers, hire models to showcase new mer- There is also the image of the fashion will be in Europe wrapping up ready-to- of style. I’ll probably go in March, and my chandise and employ extra sales staff to industry to consider, as Los Angeles wear shows before Los Angeles stages its sense for now is that the buying team will accommodate appointments. strives to present itself as a unified front presentations. go in April.” “The cost of doing business is going to and must-see design opportunity for na- “Our buyers will be finishing orders Michael Greenbaum, president of double,” said Renee Cohen, owner of a tional and international buyers. from Europe at that time,” said Dawn Miami-based CMJ Enterprises, parent to contemporary showroom at the “New York would never do this...it Brown, a Barneys New York spokes- the nine-store chain, A Nose for Clothes, California Market Center. sounds ridiculous,” said Lisa Elliot, woman. “Our travels plans still haven’t said, “We’ll be coming out in March since The difficulties are heightened be- owner of the EM Productions showroom been finalized for either dates.” April conflicts with Atlanta, but we won’t cause the markets include weekends.

will be offered via the Natural Color Diamond Association at the PUBLIC EYE: Even mere civilians can get into the Oscar glamour group’s suite at the Regent Beverly Wilshire. game, as Saks Fifth Avenue and Vanity Fair present Saks Flash OSCAR WATCH Feb. 24-26, a series of trunk shows and pampering opportunities THEY’RE BAAACK: The Sept. 11 attacks, AND HE WANTS IN, TOO: Gotham-based designer Alvin Valley is from red-carpet regulars Donna Karan, Moschino, Etro, Hugo Iraq war and the Academy Awards also angling for the Oscar week spotlight, and he and socialite- Boss, Judith Leiber and Jimmy Choo, as well as daytime glam moving to coincide with Milan Fashion cum-Valley publicist Alexandra Lind Rose are nailing down a from Burberry, Teri Jon, Lacoste, Ellen Tracy and John Varvatos, Week resulted in a drought of fashion location to showcase his gowns. In the hopes of luring the jewelry from Leslie Greene, Roberto Coin and Cartier and beauty names in Los Angeles for Oscar Week famous and photographed, they’re offering the services of Bobbi products from Estée Lauder and Prada Fragrance. Pacific Design in recent years. Now they’re back. Brown makeup artists, hairstylist Ricardo Rojas, along with David Center is also getting in the game, hosting its first “Red Carpet Donatella Versace is jetting in from Webb’s precious jewelry. Week ’05,” including a fashion show Feb. 21; suites featuring Milan; Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa designers Cesar de la Parra, Eduardo Lucero, Inge Christopher and will arrive from New York; and Roland THE SUITE LIFE: If it’s awards David Meister,jewelry by Roberto Coin, Meyers Swiss, Daniel K, Mouret is coming in from London, and season, it’s suite time. And fashion and bags by David Galan and Whiting and Davis; and culminating more designer representatives were and beauty brands have in Miramax’s pre-Oscar bash on Feb. 26. hammering out details. Although he’s increasingly set up shops of their in town this week to open his long- own around Hollywood to push NEW HOUSE, NEW LOOK: Riley Keough, Elvis’s granddaughter and awaited Beverly Hills store, Roberto products — and, they hope, gain a most-in-demand model, will make her first public outing as Cavalli will have to skip the fun this media exposure. Today, Lane the face of the new Miss Dior scent with a drop-by Feb. 24 at a year since his Milan show is on Feb. Bryant gets in on the act with its cocktail party at the L.A. digs of SoHo House. This is the 25, two nights before the Oscars. “I one-day “Love the Way You Look second Oscars for the temporary VIP club, set up this time in a am making sure to rearrange my Suite Retreat” at a private West Los private home in Lauren’s Canyon’s Mt. Olympus neighborhood schedule next year,’’ he said. “I need Donatella Angeles home. Services will be (Bumble and Bumble, MAC Cosmetics, Cowshed Spa, The to be here.” Versace provided by Rescue Spa. Reality TV Diamond Information Center, Taryn Rose shoes and Carl star/plus-size supermodel Mia Tyler Bucherer watches are other tenants servicing visitors that MOTHER OF REINVENTION: With more second comings than the is the host. Makeup artist Billy B week). Dior celebrity makeup artist Pati Dubroff will hold court Eveready Bunny, Pamela Dennis is vying for red-carpet real will give “make-unders,” and TV’s as hostess to the intimate party, which is expected to draw estate during Oscar week. She’s setting up a by-appointment “Fashion Guy,” Lawrence Zarian, Dubroff’s A-list clients (no word, though, whether Gwyneth suite at the L’Ermitage in Beverly Hills, where she hopes to will offer styling tips in tandem with Paltrow, who Dubroff is making up for the Oscars, will be there). show stylists several one-of-a-kind dresses. In recent months, the spring collection fashion show. In August, Keough will launch the fragrance line — targeted to the New Yorker has been selling her eveningwear on QVC. She’s The event will mark the debut of Mia a youthful Dior fan with its strawberry, green tangerine, pink also among a handful of designers — including Nicole Miller, the collaboration between Seven7 Tyler jasmine and patchouli notes. The original Miss Dior was Jeffrey Chow and Alice Roi — whose diamond-encrusted wraps jeans and Lane Bryant. unveiled in 1947, the year of the New Look. WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 19 WWD.COM

“We will participate in both to a de- Girard, who owns a showroom at the mar- partment stores will be coming.” possibilities in terms of traffic patterns,” gree, but in April we’ll avoid weekends, ket center, representing contemporary Though the market center will be a said Jennifer Uner, the market center’s going by appointment if necessary,” said and misses’ lines such as Fabrizio Gianni. cheerleader for the March event, it can’t executive director of advertising and Michael Cohen, who owns two show- Show organizers and building man- demonstrate real promotional muscle be- communications. “At the same time, it’s rooms at the New Mart, representing agers said a fragmented market wasn’t the cause it had already allocated its market- not like it will be quiet here [in March]. Project E, Tags+ and Sanctuary. intention of the changes. Those who spear- ing budget to the April date by the time We’ll have Brighte here, our contempo- But smaller local specialty stores, headed the earlier contemporary market, the switch was made late last year. That rary showrooms will be participating and such as Jill Roberts in Beverly Hills and including Designers & Agents organizers means its retailer breakfasts and hotel the gift and home market will also be Santa Monica and Villains and Villains Ed Mandelbaum and Barbara Kramer and shuttle services will be offered only in going on [March 19-21].” Vault in San Francisco, said they would contemporary showrooms such as the April. And, its fashion show at the Whatever the outcome, most industry visit the Los Angeles shows in both Bank, co-owned by Betsee Isenberg in the Orpheum Theatre, usually attended by representatives concur that they are not March and April. New Mart, had hoped the general market 1,000 people, will not be presented. anxious for another fragmented sequel Other designer representatives gave a would move up its dates as well. In addition, the market center is being for the spring market later this year. The positive spin to the new format, antici- “Some of the tenants are confused, and sold to Jamison Properties in Los second Los Angeles Contemporary pating higher sales from added exposure I’ve been speaking with them,’’ Isenberg Angeles, with the closing expected by the Market is scheduled for Oct. 20-25 and to retailers. said. “We understand the California end of this month or mid-March, creating the general market is Nov. 4-8, but those “If you normally do 100 percent of Market Center tenants may show twice, a marketing gap between current and dates may change. business in one market, my gut feeling is and that’s their call. But we do believe in new management. “We believe in the earlier dates, but that we’ll do 60 percent of the business in this earlier market for the contemporary “Our responsibility is to make this a we’re also hoping that we can come to- March and 60 percent April,” said Lynn category and believe buyers from all de- good market, and we see lots of positive gether,” Mandelbaum said.

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Merchandiser / Designer Three Dots seeks a talented team player for our creative staff. Must have a strong background with extensive experience in women’s contemporary sweaters, knits and wovens. Must possess a great style sense. Offshore experience required. Able to accurately identify emerging trends, shapes, colors and prints. Proven track record from development to retail sell through required. Responsibilities include: merchandising, trend direction, retail market research, strategic planning & presentations. Email resumes to: [email protected] Fax: (714) 698-1365 LOS ANGELES SCOTT-THALER ASSOCIATES SALES MANAGER NATIONWIDE EXECUTIVE RECRUITERS For high profile fashion store with world class selection •ACCOUNT EXEC - YM Sportswear & Tailored Apparel (Chicago & L.A.) of men’s and women’s RTW designers. Must have strong •CONTEMPORARY HANDBAG DESIGNER (CA) retail experience and outstanding people skills for sales •DESIGN DIRECTOR & DESIGNER(S) - Men’s & Young Men’s (Midwest) floor. Also ability to build sales team, organize and inspire •FABRIC MANAGER (MN) them. Excellent customer service skills essential to maintain •HEAD TEXTILE DESIGNER - Uniforms (CA) integrity of store and high repeat clientele base. Salary •KEY ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES - Juniors / Girls & Lingerie (CA) open, medical benefits. •MERCHANDISER - Contemporary & Uniforms (CA) •REGIONAL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES- Trim / Labels (New York, NY) Fax resume to: 310-652-8211 •VP TREND/COLOR - Apparel (Midwest) & COLOR ANALYST (MN) Don’t just SETTLE for a job, when you can have a CAREER! Attn: Mary Oliva Fax: 213-312-9324, Tel: 800-968-1562 Email [email protected] / http://www.scott-thaler.com Linea Pelle Inc. Account Manager Office/Clerical Person Growing belt manufacturer Manufacturer in LA seeking in West LA seeks Account office / clerical person to Manager to handle private work in whse facility. label accounts for Ladies DATA ENTRY- L.A. and Mens. Experience in Knowledge of apparel and LA apparel mfg/wholesale co private label sales a must. accessory retailers, light EDI seeks efficient, energetic, detailed Experience with leather background a must. indiv to handle ord entry, dye accessories preferred but Fax to: (413) 778-6873 or reports & invoicing. Exclnt comm not required. Competitive & comp skills a must; EDI a +. package. Please fax E-mail: [email protected] Paid benefits. Fax 213.607.0442 resume to: 310-231-9949 20 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005

SUPPLEX*TASLAN Largest Supplier of IN-STOCK Woven All Fabrics & Trims Wanted Solid Fabrics. Available in all Finishes. Immediate payment. We come to you. Domestic/Export www.fabrics.com All quantities. We are nice people to Venture Textiles 1-800-4-SUPPLEX deal with. Call Frank Levy: 717.761.3259

Quick Turn Distribution Cen- ter, where timely shipping and compliance issues are our speciality, is offering Pick and Pack services to interested Garment manufac- turers. We are located in Secaucus, NJ with over 55,000 sq ft of space. Call us for a demo of services on how we can lower your shipping costs at 201-558-9191

1407 BROADWAY Customized Knitwear SHOWROOMS/OFFICES Design Studio TREBOR MGMT Steven Lambert 212-944-6094 High-End Couture Handknit Swatches, Samples, Production Brand Name Design Exp-No Minimum 246 Mulberry Street-Nolita Call 917-612-1094 2,000 sq. ft Retail Space Expert Hand-Made Outerwear Co. Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 Private Label For Your Brand. www.dumann.com Technical Support for Designers Ph: 212-290-0009 E: [email protected] 488 Seventh Avenue (36th St.) Patterns/Samples/Beading LIVE/WORK Duplicates Cut & Sew LARGE 1 BR SHOWROOMS Fast & Full Service- Production $1,695 to $1,895 Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 Great Loc. Hi Ceils. Wd Flrs. Drmn. 212-629-8694 - MON-FRI - NO FEE PATTERNS/SAMPLES PRODUCTIONS 257 W. 38th Street, 3rd Floor For Space in Garment Center Ph: (212) 921-8100 Helmsley-Spear, Inc. 212-880-0414 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS Showroom, Loft-Expert-Sublets All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. SOHO - 30’s - 50’s All Sizes Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Search- www.manhattanoffices.com PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS Showroom / Office / Retail Full servcie shop to the trade. We find you space-best deal-no fee Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. sublet 525 7th/ready Garment Center Real Estate Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100

Weprovide outstanding education in job training, basic skills and work force development. We are currently seeking a F/T instructor to join our state of the art FASHION DESIGN & APPAREL TECHNOLOGY DEPARTMENT Position is tenure-track starting Fall 2005. Deadline extended to close 3/3/05. For application materials & information please visit: http://www.wvmccd.cc.ca.us/wvmccd/hr/ West Valley College, Saratoga, CA

38th St. 63 West RASKIN EXECUTIVE SEARCH 6,000 SF Available Exclusive to the Fashion Industry BUILT OFFICE/SHOWROOM Ileen Raskin 212-213-6381 Move-In Condition Nancy Bottali, Accessory 212-213-6386 Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 WINOKER REALTY Fax: 609-448-8248 Joshua Alter 212-519-2038 www.raskinexecsearch.com WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 21

Customer Service/Bookkeeper to 35K. Designer to $150K. Current exp in better, Min 1 yr exp. in A/P + A/R required. updated dresses + sportswear. Must hang Good phone skills for CS of apparel ac- w/ Kay Unger, BCBG, Tahari, etc. for new counts. Fax 973-379-1275 Agcy. branded line. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. Computer Patternmakers GERBER PDS 2000 OR LECTRA PDS DESIGNER Assistant Merchandise Buyer $$$$ SUITS & DRESSES $$$$ Younique Clothing Co. Urban Brands, Inc. a leading specialty retailer targeting [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Junior Sportswear mfr. seeks a highly motivated creative knit designer with the fashion - savvy urban female. Owner of both the Ashley Customer Service 5 years experience for our junior im- Stewart and Marianne brands seeks an experienced Assistant port & domestic department. Excellent Merchandise Buyer. Supervisor benefits! Please fax resume to: 212-764-0352 The ideal candidate will possess 5-7 years experience as an Located in Calabasas, CA, seeks the Design Assistant Merchandise Buyer in a specialty retail company following: Customer Service Supervisor and have a demonstrated talent in choosing merchandise Needs knowledge of EDI and QRS cata- that reflects the taste level of the targeted customer. Must log. Responsible for system set up of styles, stores, etc. Knowledge of UPC bar have a working knowledge of merchandising operations as codes, price ticket ordering, printing, and well as analytical ability and a superior understanding of re- tracking. Minimum 5 years experience w/retail customers, Apparel Industry. Swim Design Assistant tail math. Excellent written and verbal communication skills Fast paced growing division is seeking are also required. Fax resumes to Jen at 818-871-1354 ahighly motivated, detail oriented person to help facilitate and coordinate the Urban Brands offers an excellent growth opportunity to any Design Assistant design process. Assist with design pre- high energetic, results-oriented candidate with a love for Contemporary Denim Company seeks a sentations, supervise and participate design assistant with a min. of 3 years in the overall sample development fashion and merchandising as demonstrated through their denim experience. Must be proficient in process including sourcing trims, previous work experience. Illustrator and Photoshop. Fax resume: fabrics and prints and tracking sample 323-588-8140, Attn: Susan Woo cutting tickets. Organizational skills a All interested candidates should forward their resumes along with must. 2-3 years experience required. compensation expectations to: [email protected] Design Equal Opportunity Employer ASST TECH DESIGNER In House Public Relations Missy Activewear Co. seeks Tech Asst Candidate must have high end fashion w/acreative edge. Resp. incl sample/ experience. Strong editorial contacts a prod spec packs, grading, garment fits, must. Excellent writing and communi- detailed flat sketching, presentation cation skills. Must be organized and ACCESSORY JOBS boards and overseas comm. Must have detailed oriented. VIP/Celebrity con- *Admin Asst. (2)-Exp only! to 45K min 1-2 yrs exp w/ outstanding tech tacts a plus. 3-4 years exp required. *Assoc. Designer - Costume Jewelry $50K knowl., excellent computer and sketching Weoffer a competitive salary & bene- *Designer - Handbags/Mass & Mid $$$Open abilities, and be flexible, organized and fits. Please fax resume including *Designer - Cold Weather w/Graphics $50K detail oriented. Fax res: 212-819-1498 salary requirements to: 212-719-3601 *Private Label Sales- Men’s Sprtwear $$$ or [email protected] *Sales Asst for Account Exec.EXP! to $40K *Sales Manager - Designer Handbags $$Open Design Development DIGITIZER *Sales -Jr.&Missy Costume Jewelry $60K+ Manager And Many Other Positions Available!!! Josephine Chaus is currently seeking an Call ACCESSORY EXECUTIVES, INC Pfiff Wear, Inc. is an equal opportunity fashion company focusing on women’s experienced Digitizer for its MANHAT- For details on these jobs@ (212) 213-6386 TAN office. Email Resumes: [email protected] intimate apparel. We are looking for a talented person to manage our design & sample development dept. Potential You will be responsible for digitizing candidates must have experience with patterns into the computer system, Administrative Assistant making models and orders for marker For Head of Sales at est’d manufacturer bra and nightgown pattern making, grading, and ability to direct sewing of makers, and entering information into of branded and private label clothing. the AS400 system. Strong communication, computer and initial prototype. Job location is nego- organizational skills are required. Must tiable between Virginia and New York. To qualify you must have 3-5 years ex- be able to multi-task and help out during Some travel to Italy and China req’d. perience and strong computer skills. busy market weeks and the corresponding Ability to speak Mandarin or Italian a follow-up. 2+ years experience. plus. Please fax resume to (703) 267- For immediate consideration, please Calvin Klein Underwear, Please fax resume to: (212) 221-8135 6099. Reference code: PfiffHR022005. email your resume to: [email protected] a Division of Warnaco Inc. ADMIN SINCE 1967 Designer Asst Childrenswear and write "Digitizer" in the subject line. Flat sketching on a computer required. For more information on Chaus, please W-I-N-S-T-O-N Must know Illustrator and Photoshop. visit our website at: seeks a Technical Designer for its Women’s Fax resume attn: CAD 212-868-9279 Technical Design Team. APPAREL STAFFING www.josephinechaus.com DESIGN * SALES * MERCH DESIGNER ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Domestic sweater co. seeks exp’d De- Qualified candidates should possess 3-5 years technical design (212) 557-5000 F:(212) 986-8437 signer w/ knowl. of knitting. Brooklyn experience. Specific experience with foundations/intimates is location. Fax resume to: 718-417-3938 Equal Opportunity Employer highly preferred. Candidates should also have some experi- Apparel Staffing, Ltd. ence with pattern making, draping, flat sketching and grad- *PRODUCTION*DESIGN *TECH DESIGN*GRAPHIC DESIGN* DESIGNER - Freelance FABRIC ing as well as the demonstrated ability to conduct live and form *MERCHANDISING* Better Sweater Co. seeks exp’d., creative fittings and communicate fit comments to respective audiences. see career listings @ www.apparelstaffing.com Designer w/knowledge of trends in knit- MANAGER Or Fax Resume To: (212) 302-1161 wear & niche markets. Must sketch Major public apparel co in the BOSTON Experience working with Web PDM, Micrografx Designer or well & be detail oriented. Please E-mail AREA seeks a candidate to lead sourcing other transferable applications is also preferred. resume to: [email protected] efforts in woven and knit fabrics while ASSISTANT BUYERS planning and managing the execution of Ideal candidates for this position will possess a 4 yr. degree Leading women’s apparel catalog in fabrics used in sampling and production CT seeks assistant buyers to join DESIGNER - Freelance of finished goods. This person will also in Fashion (Design/Pattern-making preferred), strong basic merchandising team. Assist buyer Freelance Designer needed to handle be responsible to coordinate develop- computer skills (e.g. Microsoft Excel, MS Word, etc.), the ability to with product development, sourcing, Missy Sweater special projects. Must have ment of fabrics through to the approval line presentations, pricing and vendor knowledge of sweater specifications and of production while ensuring that cost, multi-task, and excellent written and verbal communication skills. Technical Designer follow up. College degree preferred preparation of tech packages to be sent lead time, aesthetic and technical goals and/or 1-2 years retail or catalog to factories. Fax resume: 212-869-7635 are met. This person will work closely We are seeking a self experience required, PC skills a must. For confidential consideration, please forward resume directed Tech Designer with with the fashion design and production E-mail resume & salary requirements dept. Person should have 3+ years ex- with salary requirements to: amin of 3 yrs exp in juniors to [email protected], fax to DESIGNER perience in fabric management. Highly fax: 212-287-8752 and/or men’s to join our 203-661-3524. EOE Import Co, seeks talented energetic in- detailed, fast-paced team players reply. rapidly growing team in dividual for Jr. Sportswear line. Must Excellent salary and benefits. email: [email protected] ASST DESIGNER have at least 2 years exp. and be profi- Fax resumes to HR: 617-332-3260 Jersey City. Responsibilities in- Major private brand womens cient on Adobe Photoshop 7.0 & Illus- clude creating detailed sportswear company seeks organized trator 10.0. Must be reliable & able to FABULOUS FREELANCE OPPS! production packages and and detail oriented team player to meet deadlines. Excellent opportunity. TAYLOR HODSON SPORTSWEAR assist with all Design tasks. Responsi- Please fax resume Attn: Cathy Assistant Designers, Assistant working w/ fit from initial bilities include sketching, trim 212-869-2781 Merchandisers & Production DESIGNER spec to TOP sample. Email approvals, filing & some knowledge of Assistants. You’ll LOVE the cover letter, resume/salary to print and handloom development. short/long-term assignments w/ great We are seeking a dynamic, talented Candidate must be proficient in DESIGNER co’s we have avail immed!!! design pro with 10 yrs. exp. to join [email protected] Illustrator and Photoshop. Please e-mail Leading Luxury Sportswear Company fax: (212) 924-9421 resume to [email protected] Seeks designer with 4-5 yrs experience email: [email protected] our Boston Hdqtrs designing for a in women’s sportswear to join design major public moderate contempo- team. In addition to talent, the appli- rary co. Must have background in CHILDREN’S cant must be energetic, enthusiastic, reliable, able to follow up & meet dead- updated knits and wovens for pants, COMPUTER ARTIST lines. Must also be goal oriented, organ- Designers, Merchandisers skirts and jkts. Must be able to shop MERCHANDISER Major Childrenswear Company seeks a ized and a true team player. Knowl- Product Development stores for the newest trends. Strong Fast paced national distributor of talented & experienced Girls Artist to edge of Adobe Photoshop, Illustrator knowledge of fabrics and an under- apparel / accessories seeks work in Illustrator & Photoshop. Must be and Primavision a plus. Please fax Production & Office Support able to draw flats, create prints, plaids, resume and an example of your work All levels of exp for major standing of developmen timelines. Merchandiser. 5 yrs exp with appliques and embroideries. Min 2 yrs. to 212-268-0232 attn: Yelena. Ladies, Juniors, Women’s, Excellent salary & benefits. licensed merch, managing experience in Girls apparel. Need to see Accessories & Childrenswear Fax resume to HR: astrong portfolio that includes boards. Designer to 100K Fax resume to: 646-227-0436 design team, etc. E-mail: Good working conditions plus benefits. Better girls/jrs denim exp. or Email: [email protected] 617-332-3260 [email protected] Email resumes to: Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 [email protected] [email protected] 22 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005

New Frontier SALES/PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Fast growing (childrens) ...... 90-120K SALES EXEC & ASSTS Expanding accessory importer seeks missy/contemporary new frontier DESIGNERS (Sr. & Asst) ...... 40-100K highly motivated and aggressive sales knit house seeks: Fast growing fashion company seeks ACCOUNT EXECS & ASSTS ..40-120K executive and sales assistant for NY quality individuals to join our team! CAD (U4ia) ...... 75-80K showrooms. Sales experience needed. PRODUCTION (MGR-wovens)..60-85K Benefits, salary plus commission. TECH/CAD DESIGNER TECH DESIGNERS (All areas) .40-90K With 5 years experience. TECHNICAL DESIGNER Email: [email protected] or Exceptionally organized & detail oriented PLANNING (All areas)...... 40-90K fax 309-273-9570 DESIGN ASSISTANT individual to translate designs to tech HUMAN RESOURCES (Generalist)70-80K packs: specs, sketches, fabrics, trims. MARKETING (e-commerce)...... 45-55K To handle approving prints, fabrics, STUDIO COOR...... 40-55K SALES EXEC $$$$$$ trims, lab dips. 2 years experience. Must have job experience and be proficient in Illustrator (PC), Excel, and E-mail PRODUCT DEVEL ASST...... 30-45K Jr Activewear & Sweaters. Must Have w/overseas. Ability to work independently Following. Mid Tier Dept Store & Mass SALES ASST Fashion Network: 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 2 years experience. &with team. Must have understanding of technical garment construction. Great company atmosphere! Great benefits! Fax resumes to Jodi at: 212-221-1875 Sales Executive Fax resume to: 212-221-1353 Many other oppty’s Temp & Perm Est’d. Moderate Contemporary Top Co. Call: 212-986-7329 Fax: 212-986-7708 is seeking an aggressive Sales Person OFFICE ASSISTANT Email: [email protected] Grader/Marker Busy, high-end fashion company seeks for our N.Y. showroom. Must be exp’d. organized individual to manage daily and have good relations with buyers. New Jersey based Children’s SAMPLE MAKER $125K Please Fax resume to: 323-846-0001 Sportswear Co. seeks computerized office duties. A/P. Please fax resume to: 212- 869-2863 Supervise Patternmakers, Sample Makers. grader/ marker for Assyst/ gerber CAD Fittings, Time/Action. Better Bridge & Wovens system. 5 years minimum experience. [email protected] Call: 212-947-3400 Sales Help Wanted Fax resume to 973-856-9395 PATTERNMAKER Up-scale Sportswear Co. seeks Up to 65K DOE. Halloween company motivated, hard-working individual as in Manhattan. Must be Gerber trained. susana monaco sales assistant to sales execs. Some GRAPHIC ARTIST / 1st thru production, tech packs, grad- DESIGN ASSISTANT sales experience preferred; a certain DESIGNER ing, etc. E-mail: Proficient with Adobe Illustrator, Excel amount of travel and sales office [email protected] and Word, detail oriented, extremely assistance required. Must be team player. Well known Premium Vintage inspired Fax resume to 212 328-1230 Attn: Pam jeanswear / sportswear company with organized. Responsibilities include specialty retail accounts worldwide seeks PRINT & PATTERN ARTIST $45K sample and trim organization, creative, self motivated, Graphic Artist/ Strike Off & Repeats resourcing & linesheet development. [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 PRODUCTION ASSISTANT SALES POSITION Designer. Ideal candidate will have know- Hi-end ladies boutique in ledge of printing on t-shirts and fabric, Proficient with Excel &Word, detail oriented, extremely organized. Englewood, NJ seeks F/T Salesperson. silkscreening process, details involved Please fax resume to: (201) 568-3394 in apparel production as well as desktop Prod’n. Coordinator/ Responsibilities include fabric & trim publishing skills. Minimum 1-2 yrs. ex- production ordering & development. perience. Must possess a strong personal Spec Tech/Patternmaker Please fax resume to: (212) 398-1661 SALES REP graphic/visual aesthetic that is new and •SPEC TECH: Develop Spec/Tech pack; KEY ACCOUNTS - NYC refreshing! Great work environment! understanding of garment constructions Leading off-price apparel distributor seeks Please send resume to: & product specifications. Be proficient SWEATERS Production/Design/Tech Design seasoned & aggressive Key Account Sales E-mail: [email protected] in Photoshop, Illustrator ,and Excel. Executive to sell over 50 brands of brand •PATTERNMAKER: Men’s Wear back- name apparel to large chain retailers. Graphic Designer to 80K ground in knit/sweater/wovens tops & Ideal candidate will have a proven track Must have girls/jrs denim better priced bottoms/outerwear; computer literate. record of account management in the Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 •PROD’N. CORDINATOR: Detailed; apparel industry. Excellent communica- [email protected] strong follow up/E-mail communications Many other oppty’s Temp & Perm tion &interpersonal skills a must, and skills w/China, technical knowledge Call: 212-986-7329 Fax: 212-986-7708 high energy individual desired. 5 years in Ladies’ Sportswear. Min. 3 yrs. exp. Email: [email protected] sales experience required. Work from INDUSTRIAL ENGINEER Salary commensurate w/exp. Please Fax New York showroom & handle accounts Leo’s Dancewear, Inc. in Chicago, a or E-mail resume to: 212-871-0782 TAILOR/SEAMSTRESS; Custom techni- throughout the Northeast. Some travel leader in the dancewear industry, [email protected] cian Manh. Draw and modify existing necessary. Send cover letter, resume, seeks an Industrial Engineer w/ appa- patterns, sketch & design, sew, cut & and salary requirements to: rel exp. Resp. include: time & motion Product Development Assistant finish samples & custom orders by [email protected] studies, methods analysis/training, line M. Hidary Outerwear Dept. seeks an hand and by machine. 40 hrs / wk - balancing, costing & scheduling. B.S. ASSISTANT to oversee all stages of 8a.m. - 5p.m. (1 hr. lunch) $762.40 / wk. 3 in industrial engineering, 3-5 yrs. exp. SALES REP - NYC post order requirements. Must have yrs. exp. req’d. Send resume to: #SAH Michael Kors, the leading American designer w/ knowledge of cut & sew production, working knowledge of product and factory #1901, Post Office Box 703, New York, Leading off-price apparel distributor seeks computer skills, bilingual in Spanish expectations for Walmart, Target and NY 10014-0703 for luxury sportswear is launching a new seasoned & aggressive Sales Executive pref. Fax resumes w/salary req. to: JCPenney’s. Please fax/ email resume: to sell over 50 brands of brand name 208-474-9009 or swimwear division apparel to discount retailers. Excellent [email protected] 212-629-8692/ [email protected] TECH/CAD DESIGNER communication & interpersonal skills a Men’s & Boy’s Jeanswear Co. looking must, and high energy individual desired. for highly motivated individual with JOBS JOBS JOBS Production Assistant We’re seeking Nationwide Independent Sales Representatives 5 years sales experience required. Work positive attitude, to create detailed pro- who will be responsible for developing the sales/wholesale from New York showroom. Some travel *Assistant Designers- Exp or Entry Level Min 3 yrs experience with sportswear duction packages & color cads for pre- *Artists: N/I/T-Girl-Boy-Jr.-Young Men import. Follow up communications, cost- business through better specialty stores nationwide. Candi- necessary. Send cover letter, resume, sentations. Proficiency in Adobe illus- and salary requirements to: *Designers-assists-assoc boy-girl-jr-yg men ing, specs, quality. Daily communication trator a must. PhotoShop skills a plus. *Designer Associate-Girls 4/16 Jr. Driven dates must be well established in the market and possess an [email protected] with Hong Kong/China factories. High- Only detail oriented and organized peo- account base with proven on-going industry relationships. *Designer Girls 7/16 hang w/Mudd-Angel-L.E.I. ly skilled in emails, excel, word. Email ple need apply. *Merchandising/Design Admin. Assist resume to [email protected] Fax resume to: 212-760-1234 Must have 3 to 5 years of better experience in specific territory. *Merchandiser -Sports Licensing Sales Reps Wanted *Production coords - bilingual chinese Production Coordinator $50- $60K For consideration send resumes: New fashion tee blank co. based in CA *Production Coordinator- Walmart Exp. Far East exp. Fluent Chinese TECH DESIGN seeking aggressive, experienced reps. *Production MGR- Sweaters-Overseas Travel Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Est’d women’s mfr co seeks comp. e-mail: [email protected] / fax: (323) 837-6107 In stock program, distributors welcome. *Production:mgrs & coords & assists [email protected] literate Spec writer to work hand in Please put "Michael Kors Swimwear" in subject line Fax resume to 760-931-1805 *Product Mgr or Coord liaison bet Design/Prod hand w/ design to build complete tech for appt. at MAGIC *Retail Analysts- Planners pack for dvlp. process. Min 1-3 yrs exp We are an Equal Opportunity Employer M/D/F/V *Sales assistant showroom or retail exp. Production Manager with Web based PDM spec program or *Spec Techs Imports Sportswear Co seeks well exp’d similar, garment construction a must, SWEATERS GALORE *Technical Desgn & Assists & entry level indiv with excellent communication / working w/ missy, petite, women’s Est’d. reputable Domestic /Importer of *Technical Designers- Sweaters organization / comp skills. Fax 212-302- sportswear, knits, wovens, sweaters. Jr./Missy & Private Label Sweaters Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) 7732 / [email protected] Must have knowledge of Illustrator, be seeks exp’d driven Salespeople to join detailed oriented, organized & motivat- our dynamic sales team. Potential to Production Manager ed. Fax resume/ sal$$ 212-380-2383. Sales Manager earn high commissions. Excellent oppty. Send resume to Mel: 718-875-8028 Jewelry Established importer with broad and deep capabilities in ladies sportswear MERCHANDISE Est’d jewelry co seeks a Jewelry Technical Designer $80-$100K. Current Production Mgr (Gold & Silver) to exp in full fashion sweaters + cut & sewn. seeks an experienced sales professional to drive growth in an existing COORDINATOR manage the day to day operations of the Knowl. of gages, yarns, embelishments, missy/updated wholesale branded business. The ideal candidate will have Territory available: distribution team. Executes product from specs, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. designer’s concept through to final adapta- 3to5years road force management experience as well as the ability to Philadelphia/Baltimore/DC Technical Designer Maxstudio.com is a global corporation tion. Ultimately is responsible for the contribute to design and merchandising direction. Must be able to develop bringing leading-edge design to today’s costing and shipping of all product lines. Associate Technical new business and travel to major markets. We are a flexible and highly woman. Maxstudio.com strives to Min. 5 yrs exp in Production. Fast pace Nancy Koltes at Home offer the highest quality at an excellent environment, must meet deadlines. Designer entrepreneurial company with strong financial and operational capability. This creative Nolita/Soho home value through the design and distribution Requirements: Excellent communication Leading Junior and Plus importer has We are offering an outstanding opportunity for the dynamic self starter furnishings retailer seeks responsible of the following proprietary brands: skills, well organized, and detail oriented. immediate opening for an ASSOCIATE Full Time experienced Sales Associate Maxstudio.com, Studio M, Max Email: [email protected] TECHNICAL DESIGNER. Candidate who can help us unlock the value in our infrastructure. preferably with home furnishings background. Candidates must be Edition, & MSSP. We currently have must have minimum 2-3 years experi- E-mail resume in strict confidence to: [email protected] an opening for a Merchandise Coordi- Production Patternmaker ence in Technical Design. Knowledge hard working, reliable and flexible nator in Our Mid-Atlanta Market. DONNA RICCO of pattern making, garment construc- with a knowledge of clientele building. tion, specs, grading and writing fit ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Please fax resume to: (212) 979-5367 The Merchandise Coordinator will execute Experienced Prod Patternmaker needed comments. Strong ability to communi- to work in busy NYC pattern department MAXX NEW YORK HANDBAGS is Grupo Romano USA Maxstudio.com merchandising and cate with overseas offices. Computer seeking experienced, energetic, indi- SALES ASSOCIATE visual standards for a territory of on Gerber PDS system. Must have literate, detail oriented with ability to Leading producer of denim, twill and STRONG BIAS DRESS experience in vidual to join our specialty stores sales knit fabrics in Mexico with Headquarters Soho high-end Women’s Wear flagship department stores in the Philadelphia/ thrive in a TEAM ENVIRONMENT a team. Candidate must be familiar with boutique seeks F/T experienced retail Baltimore/D.C. area. Responsibilities variety of fabrics including silk. Salary must. Knowledge of Adobe Illustrator in New York seeks exp’d Sales Reps. commensurate with experience. Excellent our product and be able to immediately Exciting opportunity in major US markets. sales associate w/ potential for advance- include: train specialist and educate a PLUS. Fax Resume to VP Design manage and maintain accounts on all ment. Candidate must be sales driven sales staff through seasonal seminars; benefits and work conditions. 212-719-4903 Fax resume to: Christopher Glynn, Pres. Please fax resume to 917-591-8629 levels. Handbag experience required. (212) 714-0039 or Call: (212) 714-2421 with excellent customer service skills. assess stock levels/assortments during Pls fax resume: 212-679-0311 each store visit and partner with Man- Fax to: 212-274-8975 agement with Account Executive to de- PRODUCTION/TECH Technical Designer ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE velop strategies for achieving sales Fast paced women’s wear company seeks Well est’d import co seeks a hands on sales goals; identify optimum real estate ASSISTANT Technical Production Coordinator. Must professional w/ a proven track record and partner with Management to Established Import Company seeks a have import experience and technical on ladies& men’s apparel. Relation- Key accounts exec $75-100K. Min 1-2 yrs acquire the best locations. highly motivated individual with 2-3 yrs knowledge of garment construction. ships at mgmt level w/ major retailers. exp in better to bridge women’s sports- experience in ladies fashion manufac- Must be proficient in excel and word. Contacts with mass markets & chains. wear w/ strong relationship at Dillard’s. Prestigious French Children’s Wear Candidates must have previous retail turing. Qualified candidates must be able Company is looking for enthusiastic and Fax Resume to Joyse: 212-302-5763 Accustomed to produce six figure earn- Midtown co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. management or vendor merchandising to spec garments, handle live model fit- ings. Co. paid med ben. Rockefeller experienced sales associates for its experience. To qualify for this chal- tings, send fit comment, conduct daily Center area. Fax 212-397-2202. new Madison Avenue location. Great lenging role, you must be a motivated correspondence with overseas offices. Technical Designer Missing Sales benefit package. Please email your self-starter, an adept communicator, Must be detail oriented, well organized & Growing Jr, Msy, Plus Sportswear Co. DESIGNERS Great contemporary designer w/proven resume to [email protected] and possess strong leadership skills. have strong computer skills. Bilingual seeks an individual with min 5+ yrs European & American track record, along Must be computer proficient (Word/Excel). Chinese & knowl. of Photoshop a plus. exp in woven. Approve fit & construc- FEBRUARY’S BEST! w/est’d. Asian Mfr. producing hi-quality Please fax or email resume to: tion: spacing, grading, follow-up, and * Designer - Jr denim - hot license goods for American market, seeks top For consideration, please fax resumes 212-683-4053 / [email protected] daily comm. with overseas via fax/ * Designer- Intimates Victorias Sec Acct Salesperson. You have proven track record to 626-797-3251. While we appreciate email. Maintain tech packages concept * Designer-Small leather goods, hot lic w/Specialty & Dept. Stores in the better/ every applicant’s interest, only those Receptionist/Fit Model through production. Be organized and * Jr Art Director-Laptop, plannograms, designer markets. Position requires strong under consideration will be contacted. detail oriented team player; Able to fit- cd holders etc. Must have Photoshop/ Ill sales ability, strategic planning, creative For Midtown denim manufacturer. Fax Resume to Carla 201-894-1186 or Duties to include basic clerical tasks, in a fast paced environment. Knowl- marketing, and leadership. Reply in edge of p-making, Excel, Outlook a e-mail [email protected] confidence to: [email protected] Merchandise & Retail showroom reception & assisting during KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS market weeks as fit model. Measurement: must. Pls fax resume to Cindy at: 5’7”, size 8 - Bust 36 1/2, Waist 29 1/4 , Hip 39 1/4 212-400-1288 Planners Sales $75 - $100+K Perry Ellis Int’l seeking exp merch/ retail Please fax resume to: (212) 221-8135 Exciting Sales Oppty New York based co requires a responsi- Better bags/sm. leather goods. Dept. stores. planners for growing divisions. 3+ Technical Designer Allen*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 years experience. Excel a must. Email RETAIL OPPORTUNITIES!! ble individual for the young men’s & Ladies sportswear mfg. co, looking for women’s apparel mkt. Seeking aggres- [email protected] [email protected] or fax 212-536-5870. Merch Planners - Nationwide to $100K a Technical Designer to join our EOE M/F/V/D Retek Control Analyst to $65K sive, hands on exp’d person who has design team. Should be enthusiastic, style sensibility to cater to major retail- Director In-Store Merch to $100K detail oriented, well organized & self HR Manager to $80K ers in Mid-West & West Coast areas. Sales Assistant MERCHANDISING motivated. Background in patternmaking, Relationships w/ market a must. Great Busy children’s wear co seeks sales Merchandise Mgrs to $125K communication w/ overseas & retailers. All positions NY based oppty. Business in place, position va- assistant. Must be knowledgeable in ASSISTANT Excell. communication skills. Must be cant. Fax: 212-245-7615 Wal-Mart & Target systems, computer Movie Star, Inc. seeks a self starting Send Resumes to [email protected] able to handle multiple tasks in a Or call 954-351-1112 literate, organized and detail-oriented. merchandising assistant to assist V.P. fast pace environment. All benefits. Please fax resume to (646) 827-9114 Qualified candidate must be Fax resume: 212-556-5462 experienced in: prints, fabrics, RETAIL SALES Great Opportunity !!! presentation boards, communicating Est’d Imp Co. seeks aggressive/exp’d Sales Associate with vendors, and maintaining fabric ANALYST Textile Designers Sales Exec for Popular Price Jr / Missy/ Established Junior Sportswear company library. Also, must be creative, flexible Apparel company seeks individual with FREELANCE Plus Sizes Sptswr. Must have current is seeking enthusiastic, high-energy and able to work in a fast paced knowledge of apparel business and Creative design studio w/ European focus contacts w/ Speciality Chains/Mass individual with 2 yrs showroom selling environment. MS Word, Excel, high volume accounts. Excellent com- seeks exp’d textile designers for original Retailers and Pvt Label. Excellent experience. Must be organized & detail (Outlook & Photo Shop a plus). munication and Excel skills required. print & embroidery concepts for women’s, Sal/Comm & benefits. oriented. Please send resume to: Fax resume w/salary requirement to: Walmart / RetailLink exp. a must. jrs, swim & interiors. Resumes to Please Fax Resume: 212-840-2796/ E-mail: [email protected] HR (212) 684-3295 Please fax resume to: 212-239-2766 E-mail: [email protected] Email: [email protected] or Fax: (212) 869-4047 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 23 WWD.COM

NICK’S PICK’S: Amped fans with all-access badges rushed backstage to catch a glimpse of Fashion Scoops their favorite Duran Duran members at the FIT Exhibits Celebrate Glamour BY A NOSE: Between preparing his next Pucci MAGIC opening-night party at Las Vegas’ collection for the Milan runway on Tuesday and Bellagio Hotel on Valentine’s Day, where the NEW YORK — For Patti Hansen, weath- away a sense that fashion is art and his signature collection for Paris on March 4, group played a long set of tunes from their ering Monday night’s rainstorm was a should not be dealt with lightly.” Christian Lacroix has just accepted yet another recently released “Astronaut,” as well as old small price to pay for the late Rico “In our consumer-driven world that is extracurricular design project. He has agreed faves “Rio” and “Girls on Film.” Puhlman, the fashion photographer who so fast-paced, to look and see this possibil- to do the costumes for a forthcoming stage But keyboardist Nick Rhodes had clothes, launched her career. ity of glamour still exists and can be ap- production of “Cyrano de Bergerac” at Paris’ not music on his mind, saying his two decades The model and other Puhlman fans preciated for its fine integrity and care Comedie Francaise next year. To be sure, the of wardrobe archives include Comme des walked through a new exhibition of his that goes into the clothing, that’s what 1990 film starring Gérard Depardieu as the Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Marc Jacobs and work on display at The Valerie [Steele] is trying to swashbuckling romantic remains a Giorgio Armani. “I’ve kept everything — more Museum at the Fashion present here,” said Norris. benchmark. “The movie was so perfect, but we than anyone else in the band,” said Rhodes. Institute of Technology, Steele, director of the which runs through April Museum at FIT and cura- have to invent something else,” Lacroix said He was wearing a custom Juicy Couture tuxedo 9. Hansen said she want- tor for the “Glamour” Tuesday. Popular French actor Denis Podalydes shirt (courtesy of Gela Taylor, co-founder of ed to be there since work- show, said she was is slated to play the title role. Juicy Couture, who’s also wife to bassist John ing with Puhlman on a pleased to trace the con- Taylor); a vintage skinny, metallic tie; Armani 1972 Glamour shoot in the cept from the beginning of DIVA ALERT: Diana Ross paying a three-day visit blazer, and Prada boots. Hamptons was her first the 18th century through to Paris — plunk in the middle of fashion week. Rhodes, who said he used to visit Central modeling job. “He started Hollywood’s Golden Era The music legend is making the trip to promote Saint Martins fashion school in London to me off on a lovely glam- and up through today. her gig with the cosmetics firm MAC — and to pluck pieces from up-and-coming designers, our-filled trip,” she said. Gowns from Adrian, receive an award from City Hall. Paris mayor credits onetime idol David Bowie with inspiring Puhlman recorded the Travis Banton, Proenza Bertrand Delanoé will honor Ross with a symbolic him to keep everything. “We started talking event by shooting a short Schouler, Christian Dior silver medal March 1. And, of course, the image and fashion and he said, ‘Nick, I’ve kept film, and Hansen said and Norell are among the paparazzi are already relishing the prospect of a everything.’” Can a Duran Duran fashion she is hopeful the pho- showpieces, including a front-row appearance at the shows. retrospective be far off? tographer’s brother few worn by Hollywood Klaus will locate it for sirens like Greta Garbo MAN AT HIS BEST-DRESSED: Looking like you just RED ROOM: For the third year in a row, her. But once that hap- and Marlene Dietrich. came off a fashion shoot is a lot harder when you Architectural Digest has joined forces with pens, don’t expect her to Less-statuesque silhou- don’t have a stylist. With that in mind, Esquire is the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and use it as a tutorial for her ettes, such as the se- launching a search for the best-dressed “real” Sciences to outfit the greenroom backstage at daughters Alexandra and quined bell-bottom pant- man (i.e. not an actor, musician or athlete) in the Academy Awards. Oscar telecast Theodora Richards, who suit Barbra Streisand America. “It’s a way to say style isn’t foreign — it production designer Roy Christopher and his have followed her into wore for her “Funny Girl” isn’t something only models wear,” said editor in wife, Dorothy Christopher, a set decorator, the modeling business. win at the Academy chief David Granger, who estimates that only 10 worked in tandem with the magazine this Hansen said the only Awards, are also featured. to 15 percent of American men actually care year to create a red, black and gold advice she doles out is, Valvo, whose loan of a about their clothing. Real men who think they’re greenroom. Lacquer tables, Henredon sofas, “Just be healthy and gold crepe back, satin best-dressed material can sign up at esquire.com zebra-print chinoiserie Kindel chairs, Hitachi happy.” bias-cut gown marked his Adrian’s design for Joan Crawford in to have their style appraised by Esquire editors at plasma screens and Brunschwig & Fils wall FIT unveiled another first participation in an the 1937 film “The Bride Wore Red.” an event in one of 10 cities: Atlanta, Boston, coverings are meant to evoke a set by exhibition on Valentine’s FIT show, liked that the Chicago, Dallas, Denver, Miami, New York, San “Dorothy Draper for a movie starring Diana Day, “Glamour: Fashion, Film, Fantasy,” exhibition started off with a little bit of Francisco, Seattle and Los Angeles. Finalists will Vreeland, directed by Vincent Minnelli,” which explores how glamour has 18th century, “since most people think of appear on NBC’s “Today Show” in September, according to the Christophers. Enjoying the evolved, particularly over the past cen- glamour as a 20th-century subject.” and viewers will pick a winner. Granger offered a facilities will be presenters Kirsten Dunst, tury or so. Francisco Costa, Carmen Sponsored by Target, a company that has piece of advice for anyone interested in entering: Halle Berry, Penélope Cruz, Robin Williams, Marc Valvo and Maggie Norris inspected been busy aligning itself with arts-oriented “All golf shirts should be banned from Beyoncé Knowles, Kate Winslet, Orlando their respective pieces on display. projects in recent years, the “Glamour” everywhere other than the golf course.” Bloom, Al Pacino and Gwyneth Paltrow. Norris said she hopes visitors will “take exhibition runs through April 9. — R. F.

PROVEN Sales Exec BRIDGE TO DESIGNER MARKET LOOKING FOR A CHALLENGE Sales Reps TEL 212-752-8378 SALES PRO Progressive Fast-Track Women’s, Great diversified experience and Missy, and Petite Separates Sports- background; strong knowledgeable wear Co. is looking to add numerous sales/marketing skills. Call {212} 686-4607 Specialty Store Sales Reps through- Sr. Sales Professional out the United States. This unique Major Accessory experience; Contacts opportunity will allow you to earn at all levels of retail. Seeking growth minded company. Call: 410-215-9126 a competitive commission as well as allow us to tap a market place which is in need of our product mix. E-mail your resume to: [email protected] or call: 646-366-0113 ext. 21 Lingerie Sales Reps Strong sales person needed for a high end, fashion forward lingerie company. Must be motivated and have good communication skills. Commission plus expenses. Some travel required. Availa- ble territories include East Coast and Florida. Email resume to: [email protected] REPS WANTED Established Canadian mfr. of hip new sweaters and fleece jackets seeks sales pros. Available territories include: Dallas, Denver, California and Pacific N.W. For more info please call: 413-531-5878 please note corrected phone number porated. © Incorporated, Cotton 2005. Source: Based on data from NPD Group. AND IMPORTERS. PRODUCERS COTTON AMERICA'S ® of Cotton Incor Registered Service Mark/Trademark warm

Cotton insulates. Comfortably. So more cotton sweaters are sold than any other kind. Cotton. The fabric of our lives.® www.cottoninc.com fuzzy Piers 90,92and94. Feb. 27throughMarch1at at Coterie,whichrunsfrom Tu wool andangorasweaterover yet stilleasy. Here,Votre Nom’s two isbothcasualanddressy, frock. Thecombinationofthe a barelythere,ultrafeminine when you’reoutonthetownin keep youwarm,especially like acomfy, cozy sweaterto There’s nothing NEW YORK— SOFT SOFT fi Duek’s silkdress,showing WWD & COTERIE SE CTION II

PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; MODEL: LORENA/SUPREME; HAIR BY KHELI FRENCH FOR FUDGE AT JUMP; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR MARY QUANT AT JUMP; FASHION ASSISTANT: STEPHANIE BAGLEY; STYLED BY DANIELA GILBERT 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005

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Page 10 Dianne M. Pogoda Managing Editor, Fashion/Special Reports Lisa Lockwood News Director Lauren DeCarlo News Market Editor Daniela Gilbert Fashion Market Editor Kim Svitic Associate Art Director Kara Hasson Amy LoMacchio Designers Steven Hillman Copy Chief Peter Sadera Deputy Copy Chief Maureen Morrison Lisa Kelly Deborah Boylan Doug Hennemeyer Copy Editors ● ● ● Edward Menicheschi President, WWD MediaWorld Wide Ralph Erardy 4 A New Day: Exhibitors are showing a variety of great day pieces Senior VP, Group — many of which work well into the night — that include flattering Publisher slim pants and feminine, decorative tops. Metallic and embroidered Dale Reich styles continue, bringing a crafty edge to some very wearable looks. Fashion Director Joel Fertel 6 Frock On: A dress is always an easy option for evening — just add Associate Publisher, jewelry, grab a great bag and coat and go. For fall, accents like Innerwear/Legwear/ embroidery come into play and mixes of lace and satin bring out the Textiles siren in any girl. Gus Floris Fashion Manager 8 On the Casual Side: There’s nothing like kicking back in a T-shirt Vanessa Mahlab and low-slung pants or a sweater and your favorite jeans. Associate Publisher, Sportswear 12 Mind Your Business: The fall installment of ENK Susan Smith International’s Fashion Coterie welcomes back familiar faces, while Regional Advertising newcomers stake their ground too. Director Deborah Levy 14 Straight From the Top: Elyse Kroll, founder and president of Senior Account Manager, ENK International, producer of the Fashion Coterie, gives buyers West Coast advice on tackling the show. Cristina Tavares Production Director 15 Invitation Only: ENK International has invited roughly 30 Stephanie Olavarria collections to be part of The Mezzanine, a hot lineup of cool Assistant Production collections. Manager 16 Finishing Touches: Everyone knows that accessories can often make or break a look. So for fall, there are plenty of statement bags, as well as scarves and jewelry, to complete any outfit.

18 Viva La Fashion!: Fashion Coterie goes global and highlights the collections of Japanese and Brazilian designers. Inside Fashion Coterie At a Glance. . . Page 17 Dates: Sunday, Feb. 27, through Tuesday, March 1. Show Hours: Sunday and Monday, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Location: Piers 90, 92 and 94, New York. Categories: Sportswear, Accessories, Dresses, Knitwear, Leather, Outerwear, Denim, Bodywear, Footwear, Loungewear, Beachwear, Children’s Wear. Exhibitors Expected: 1,100 Page 16 Retailers Expected: 15,000 to 17,000 Total Square Feet: 400,000 Countries Represented: About 40 Goody Bags (for Press and VIP): 150 Meals Served Over 3 Days: 25,000 Smallest Booth: 5 feet by 5 feet Largest Booth: 20 feet by 50 feet Invitations Sent Out: 25,000 ENK Staffers On Hand: 25 Price Range of Booth: $1,100 to $22,000 Years Fashion Coterie Has Existed: 19 Pounds of Coffee Ordered: 600

4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005

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Beverly & Monika’s cashmere sweater with a wool skirt. Marc Jacobs shoes.

a new day It will be easy to be pretty come fall. Exhibitors at Coterie are showing a variety of great day pieces — many of which work well into the night — that include flattering slim pants and feminine, decorative tops. Metallic and embroidered styles continue, bringing a crafty edge to some very wearable looks. T AT JUMP; FASHION ASSISTANT: STEPHANIE BAGLEY; STYLED BY DANIELA GILBERT STYLED BY STEPHANIE BAGLEY; ASSISTANT: JUMP; FASHION T AT PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; MODELS: LORENA AND CARINA/SUPREME; HAIR BY KHELI FRENCH FOR FUDGE AT JUMP; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR MARY QUAN JUMP; MAKEUP BY KHELI FRENCH FOR FUDGE AT AND CARINA/SUPREME; HAIR BY MODELS: LORENA MITRA; ROBERT PHOTOS BY WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 Nanette 5 Lepore’s silk and metallic WWD.COM fiber top with rayon, wool, polyester and spandex pants. Julez Bryant earrings. Vivienne Westwood Anglomania’s rayon top with wool pants.

Theory’s wool, nylon and Lycra spandex cardigan over a silk and spandex top with wool, nylon and Lycra spandex pants. Marc Jacobs shoes.

Tocca’s embroidered rayon top with lambswool pants.

Tracy Reese’s polyester and rayon velvet coat with a wool skirt. Doyle & Doyle brooch. WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 6 Miguelina’s silk dress. Stuart Weitzman shoes. SECTION II

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Christopher Deane’s silk dress. Anna Sui’s Stuart Weitzman shoes. silk dress with a coyote fur collar.

A dress is always an easy option for evening: just add jewelry, grab a great bag and coat and go. For fall, accents such as embroidery come into play, and lace and satin bring out the siren in any girl.

frock on Helen Wang’s alpaca coat over a silk dress. Stuart Weitzman shoes. WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 7

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Miguelina’s silk dress. Stuart Weitzman shoes. T AT JUMP; FASHION ASSISTANT: STEPHANIE BAGLEY; STYLED BY DANIELA GILBERT STYLED BY STEPHANIE BAGLEY; ASSISTANT: JUMP; FASHION T AT

From left: Laundry by Shelli Segal’s silk dress with a Erickson Beamon necklace and Lulu Guinness bag; Shoshanna’s silk dress with Liza Shtromberg earrings. ▲ PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; MODELS: LORENA AND CARINA/SUPREME; HAIR BY KHELI FRENCH FOR FUDGE AT JUMP; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR MARY QUAN JUMP; MAKEUP BY KHELI FRENCH FOR FUDGE AT AND CARINA/SUPREME; HAIR BY MODELS: LORENA MITRA; ROBERT PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005

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COTERIE a casual mood There’s nothing like kicking back in a T-shirt and low-slung pants or a sweater and your favorite jeans. At Coterie, there’s a whole new crop of casual looks that include great knits for those jeans and even a racy metallic top to pump up the style quotient. T AT JUMP; FASHION ASSISTANT: STEPHANIE BAGLEY; STYLED BY DANIELA GILBERT STYLED BY STEPHANIE BAGLEY; ASSISTANT: JUMP; FASHION T AT PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; MODELS: LORENA AND CARINA/SUPREME; HAIR BY KHELI FRENCH FOR FUDGE AT JUMP; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR MARY QUAN JUMP; MAKEUP BY KHELI FRENCH FOR FUDGE AT AND CARINA/SUPREME; HAIR BY MODELS: LORENA MITRA; ROBERT PHOTOS BY Generra’s cotton tank and sweater with Penquin’s cotton jeans (left) and Yanuk’s cotton jacket with Maya’s cotton top and Blue Cult’s cotton and Lycra spandex jeans. Bernardo® makes washable suede beautiful. ScotchgardTM keeps it that way.

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Burke Research, Sept 2003 ©2005 3M. Scotchgard is a trademark of 3M 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 Alice & Trixie’s silk SECTION II and Lurex top with WWD.COM Fornarina’s cotton and Lurex denim shorts. COTERIE Helmut Lang shoes. LaRok’s cotton jacket with cotton corduroys from Seven For All Mankind.

Sable Blanc for Sacred Blue’s cotton and Modal tank with True Meaning’s cotton pants (left) and Burning Torch’s cotton and wool wrap top with wool pants. a casual mood

Twinkle’s wool cardigan with cotton jeans from Joe’s Jeans (left), and Cynthia Steffe’s silk tank and wool sweater with Joe’s Jeans’ cotton and Lycra spandex jeans.

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COTERIE mind your business

By Lauren DeCarlo

NEW YORK — The fall installment of ENK International’s Fashion Coterie is about both the old and the new, and this season will be no exception. Coterie lures companies back year after year, but also regularly introduces new labels to buyers from around the world. The exhibition also gives vendors a major read on how retailers are performing and their outlook for next season. “Fall Coterie is our biggest show of the year,” said Kelly Shelsky, executive vice president of Cousin Johnny, the knit and sweater collection here. “We always do more than $1 million in-hand at the show.” Shelsky said Coterie is a good show for the company because of its user-friendly atmosphere. “The venue is just great. Customers can come in and sit down and talk,” she said. Cousin Johnny has shown its wares at Coterie since the company’s inception 10 years ago. “We started with Coterie at the Plaza Hotel, then moved to the Piers in a booth that was 10 feet by 10 feet. Now, we’re in a custom booth that measures 20 feet by 15 feet,” she noted. This fall, Cousin Johnny’s collection includes key pieces such as multicolored sweaters, argyles and shrugs. “And anything with stripes,” she added. To celebrate its 10th anniversary, Cousin Johnny will donate 100 percent of the proceeds from its Milestone sweater group to the Trust for Public Land, the only national nonprofit organization working exclusively to protect land for human enjoyment and well-being. Alice & Olivia is another company that started showing at Coterie during its first year of business. “I launched the company three years ago and started Coterie that same year,” said Stacey Bendet, designer for Alice & Olivia here. “We were brand new, and everyone was rushing to buy our pants.” Bendet said fall is her company’s busiest season, and Coterie plays a major role in the fall rush. “We do a tremendous amount of business at Coterie,” Bendet said. “Coterie is all about small businesses.” Bendet said she expects Alice & Olivia to generate between $8 million and $10 million in 2005. Bendet will introduce Alice & Olivia’s first denim collection at Coterie. “Everyone’s doing torn- up denim styles,” said Bendet. “We wanted to do denim that reflected the Alice & Olivia girl.” The denim collection will include eight styles and will wholesale from $75 to $90. Bendet said “cool layered looks” will be big for fall. The Alice & Olivia fall collection will include cashmere hoodies and embroidered sweaters. Designer Nanette Lepore uses Coterie as a measuring stick. “It gives us a great reading as to what’s going on with our line,” Lepore said. “By the end of the week, we can be ordering fabrics and Fall marks Eve*Lynn’s knowing which colors will be stronger. It’s a good gauge for business.” first full collection. Lepore said she expects her wholesale volume for 2005 to reach $50 million. “Excluding licens-

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ing agreements,” she noted. “Coterie puts you on the map,” Chrust said. “At your first show, “We’ve had 30 percent to 50 percent growth annually for the people come into your booth, look around, and they love what past three to five years,” she said. you’ve got, but nobody buys. However, after they see that you have Lepore first showed her collection at Coterie in 1990. For fall staying power, buyers see that you’re responsible and that you will 2005, the collection will include key pieces such as brown and blue ship and that your line is getting better.” tweed suits, rich velvet and embroidered pieces, and coats. When Chrust launched at Coterie six months ago, she said she Currently, the Nanette Lepore collection can be found at over 650 had a huge response from buyers in the Asian market. “I didn’t write specialty stores worldwide. In 2005, Lepore hopes to open a store that many orders, but the attention was definitely there,” she said. in London and add a shoe license. “That would be a great thing to Since then, Chrust has signed on a sales representative to focus complete the line,” she said. solely on Asian markets, especially those in Hong Kong and Tokyo. As for the new firms this season, there will be plenty for buyers Chrust is introducing a military-inspired collection for fall. The to choose from. pieces are vintage and completely reworked in New York. The col- “This fall line is really the first line that I could call a collec- lection, she said, is based on a theme of masculinity versus femi- tion,” said Eve Chrust, founder and designer of the Eve*Lynn col- ninity. “It’s half Botticelli, half skull and crossbones,” she said. The lection. Chrust started thinking about doing her own collection in collection is heavily influenced by punk rock. January 2004, and officially launched at Coterie in September “I’ve always had an affinity toward punk rock and rock ’n’ roll,” 2004. Until last May, Chrust was a literature major at George she said. “I feel like punk rock has become more of a trend than a Washington University in Washington, D.C. genre.”

Stacey Bendet, designer, Alice & Olivia. 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005

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COTERIE Elyse Kroll, founder and president of ENK International, producer of Fashion Coterie. straight from the top

By Lauren DeCarlo

NEW YORK — Elyse Kroll created Fashion Coterie in 1986 at the Plaza Hotel with roughly 30 vendors simply because she thought she could create a better women’s trade show. Nineteen years later, more than 1,000 vendors vie for a spot on Piers 90, 92, and 94 twice a year on Manhattan’s West Side to showcase their merchandise to more than 12,000 retailers from MontréaL around the world. In March, Kroll will be honored by The Laboratory Institute of Merchandising for her contributions to the fashion world and CollectionS specifically for revamping the fashion trade show. The four-year private college offers students a IN NEW YORK CITY bachelor’s degree combining lib- eral arts with hands-on exposure to marketing, visual merchandising, fashion merchandising, communications and retailing. Kroll sat down with WWD to dish about where Coterie began and what she has in store.

WWD: With over 1,000 vendors DESIGNERS & AGENTS/ FASHION COTERIE SHOW at Fashion Coterie, what is your NEW YORK THE SHOW PIERS THE STARRETT-LEHIGH CENTER FEBRUARY 27- MARCH 1, 2005 strategy for placement? FEBRUARY 26-28, 2005 Hilary Radley Elyse Kroll: We’re trying desper- ately to make the shopping expe- Catherine Brulé Louben rience really efficient for our re- Margaret M. tailers. I usually go to our ex- NOUVEAU COLLECTIVE Mimi & Coco LIFESTYLE SHOW hibitors and say, ‘Who are your PARK CENTRAL HOTEL Papillon Blanc retailers? Who do you feel like FEBRUARY 26 - MARCH 1, 2005 Parasuco Jeans you should be merchandised Cartise International with?’ We try to group products French Dressing Jeanswear by what a store would like to buy. That doesn’t necessarily mean the same product categories. We Jean Crisan by C. Grantston Bullard try to figure out what this cus- Musi tomer would wear on the week- end? What would she wear to work? To sleep?

WWD: It seems like Fashion Coterie is going global. EK: The first international group Drawing by: Milan Tanedjikov, designer École supérieure de mode de Montréal [at the show] were the Brits. (Montréal, University School of Fashion) Then we got a group from Turkey, then Brazil and Japan. Fashion is a very fluid thing, and everyone wants to be in it. After all these years, we still see a lot of growth potential. We know the Don’t miss the upcoming Please visit us: directions we have to move in. MontréaL CollectionS Fashion Show www.montrealcollections.com One of the biggest changes is at CHICAGO: Stylemax, March 19, 2005 (your dependable apparel source) how global fashion has become. You never used to hear about Berlin, Colombia or Russia as being contenders. I’ll never for- get when Bud Konheim, chief For more information, contact: Denise Bigo, Québec Government House in New York Tel.: 212-843-0972 Fax: 212-757-4753 E-Mail: [email protected] executive officer of Nicole Miller, told me that he needed a bigger booth. He said, “You know, we have accounts from Serbia,” and “I said, ‘What? WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 15

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“We think everyone will look pretty chic up there,” she said. Karyn Craven, designer of the Los Angeles-based contempo- invitation only rary collection Burning Torch, has been a Coterie attendee since 2000, but was pleased when Kroll invited her to take part NEW YORK — A trade show is only as cool as its exhibitors, and in The Mezzanine section. this season the Fashion Coterie is upping the ante. In a first- “We’re not a crank-it-out kind of company,” Craven said. ever move, ENK International has invited roughly 30 collec- “It’s really nice that they’re making it an environment for peo- tions to be part of The Mezzanine, which is expected to be one ple to see the collection. We have a lot of details on our gar- of the most-coveted spots in the show. ments, and when people can actually see them, like they’ll be “There are some designers who need to show in a more pri- able to at The Mezzanine, they’re like ‘Wow.’ ” vate environment,” said Elyse Kroll, president and founder of The fall Burning Torch collection contrasts heavy shades the Fashion Coterie. “Some designers don’t want to be with the with lighter colors. “We’re doing two color palettes: the first is masses. They don’t want to be in the midst of the mayhem. They smoky with indigo and lavender and the second includes very want the sales, but they want to achieve them in a different way.” soft neutrals.” The wholesale price range of the collection is The Mezzanine section will be located on Piers 90 and 92. “It’s between $40 and $400. plopped down in the middle of our contemporary piers, but it’ll be For Kroll, The Mezzanine section pays homage to the Coterie kind of romantic and private up there,” Kroll said of the section. of the past. “When I started in 1986, I started with just 32 de- Imitation of Christ is one of the collections Some of the featured collections include Daryl K, Heatherette, signers,” she said. “In a way, this is me returning to my roots.” invited to participate in The Mezzanine Imitation of Christ, Burning Torch and Frost French. — L.D. section. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY

Serbia!?” The mix of stores that come to the Coterie is so broad.

WWD: This year you’re being honored by LIM. EK: Yes, and the school is just fantastic. The very principle on which the school is founded is that women need to have more important jobs in the fashion industry than to just be secre- taries. For me to be associated with that, I’m like, ‘Wow.’ I really am the epitome of what they’re talking about. I am what that school was created for.

WWD: What message do you have for retailers visiting your show? A good retailer “shouldn’t get lazy on me. Take a little stroll. There are some very cool collections going on over there. — Elyse” Kroll

EK: Contemporary buyers need to sniff around Pier 94. They need to understand that right next to Sole Commerce, the women’s shoes and accessories section, are the Japanese designers, and right next to them is Max Mara, and across the aisle is Isaac Mizrahi. A good retailer shouldn’t get lazy on me. Take a little stroll. There are some very cool collections going on over there.

WWD: What can we expect from Coterie in the years to come? EK: In the beginning, one of the key features of Coterie was that I made room for young designers. I gave them a reduced participation fee, sort of on a sliding scale based on their size. It really gave young designers the opportunity to be in front of the retailers and to succeed or fail — completely on their own depending on their collection, their ability to produce and ship. That’s one of the things I’ll be returning to. I’ll give a home to young designers because, there is no place over the course of three days that you can be seen by more retailers. And for a young designer, that’s more valuable than gold. 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005

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COTERIE

finishing touches Accessories can make or break a look, so for fall, there are plenty of statement bags — as well as scarves and jewelry to complete any outfit. Here, a look at a few new pieces that will make debuts at Coterie.

Erickson Beamon’s jasper, amber, wood and gold necklace. lauren hansen

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COTERIE BOOTH 3345, PIER 94 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 17

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So Low’s cashmere scarf.

Donald J Pliner’s suede and leather bag with pewter embroidery and studs.

Kazuyo Nakano’s leather bag with gunmetal chain. PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTOS BY 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005

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COTERIE viva la fashion! NEW YORK — Taking a global approach to keeping its trade show as designers to take part in presentations around the world. fresh as possible, Fashion Coterie spotlights vendors from two Pier 94 will house five Japanese designers sponsored by the Japan countries this season with styles almost as diverse as their Apparel Industry Council. To establish the ambience, JAIC will respective cultures: Japan and Brazil. sponsor the Fashion Coterie Lounge, also situated on Pier 94. The The 11 Brazilian designers showing at Pier 90 have the support of lounge will be a refuge for weary visitors: There, they can sip sake, the Association of Brazilian Textiles, a government organization nibble on sushi and seek solace in the tranquil Japanese garden. dedicated to the promotion and support of the Brazilian fashion Here, a sampling of the international collections on hand. industry. Each season, ABIT selects a group of top Brazilian — Lauren DeCarlo

Constanca Basto grew Minoru Adachi launched Mode up in Copacabana in Rio Acoté in 1996. A graduate of de Janeiro and the Esmod Japon design school, developed a love affair he has designed for Joseph in with shoes at an early London, Barneys New York’s age. In 1998, she private brand, as well as the opened her first shoe uniforms for Japan Air Line’s boutique in Ipanema, event, JAL Fly Beans. followed by three stores in Brazil during the next four years. In 2002, Basto opened her first boutique in New York’s Greenwich Village. OBERTA SCARPA OBERTA Show-room Attila: 552,Avenue,York, 10018 - tel. NY Seventh 2nd Floor - New 1.212.921.0123 1.212.944.4700 - fax R WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2005 19

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The concept of T-H-D La Maison’s collection is “clothes to wear at heart.” Designer Takumi Hatakeyama won the Japanese Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry’s grand prize in 1987 and was the first Japanese designer to show in the Beijing Collection in 2003. His flagship is in Tokyo’s stylish Harajyuku district.

Elisa Atheniense’s accessories take their influence from places such as ▲ Cambodia, India, Japan and Prior to launching his Thailand. Atheniense’s handbags are collection, m/m, Masayuki hand-worked and crafted in the Marukawa served as chief company’s shop in Brazil. ▲ designer for Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme. Marukawa’s designs are fluid and airy, which enables his clothing to breathe and coexist with the body of the wearer.