WWD Inside: APPAREL DRIVES NIKE/3 VERA’S NEW LINE/5 Top 10 EmmyAwardsPg. 9-20 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • September 21, 2004 • $2.00 Style Setters Ready-to-Wear/Textiles The Simple Life NEW YORK — No matter how elaborately ornamented other designers’ collections become, Francisco Costa has been sticking to his minimalist ways for Calvin Klein, and he continued to do so for spring. His mission, as Costa put it, is “to keep bringing the essence of Calvin Klein forward.” So it isn’t surprising that refreshingly simple looks dominated the line, like the silk jersey dress, here, that opened the presentation. Its subtle draping is part of a Grecian trend on the runways this season. For more on the shows, see pages 6 to 8. Christian Dior Couture Profits Jump 37 Percent On Bags and Men’s Wear By Miles Socha PARIS — Powered in part by sales of Rasta accessories and modernist men’s wear, Christian Dior Couture’s operating profits soared 37 percent in the first half. The results, less than a week after LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton posted a 49 percent jump in net income, underscore how one of Bernard Arnault’s most treasured fashion properties is fast becoming another cash cow among his vast constellation of luxury holdings. Indeed, Dior president Sidney Toledano confirmed the fashion house is See Dior, Page25 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDTUESDAY Rolex Wins $10.3M Trademark Ruling Ready-to-Wear/Textiles By Ross Tucker FASHION According to the judge’s ruling in that case, Greek column dresses were strong on the spring runways, from Carolina each retailer was ordered to pay LVMH $16 mil- Herrera’s one-shoulder look to BCBG Max Azria’s Empire-waist style. NEW YORK — Rolex Watch U.S.A. Inc. was award- lion in statutory damages — an award that, in the- 6 ed $10.3 million in damages relating to a trade- ory, entitles the luxury goods giant to a total of mark infringement case against an Internet retail- $464 million. In addition to the damages, Judge er doing business under various Web addresses. Thomas P. Griesa ordered all imitation bags and GENERAL Powered in part by sales of its Rasta accessories and modernist men’s In a Sept. 16 filing, Manhattan Federal Court accessories to be handed over to the company. Judge Richard C. Casey ruled against defendant The original complaint, filed March 2, accused 1 wear, Christian Dior’s operating profits soared 37 percent in the first half. Jimmy Lan, who was accused of selling imitation the tenants of selling counterfeit Louis Vuitton Growing usage of performance fabrics by consumers bolstered Nike’s apparel watches under various monikers including the and Fendi merchandise. The tenants, said the 3 sales, which jumped 12.9 percent to $391 million in the first quarter. Swiss Replica Watch, The Swiss Replica Co., swiss- suit, continued to sell the items despite several replica.com, fakerolex.net and rolexreplica.us. raids and the issuance of temporary restraining BEAUTY BEAT: L’Oréal Paris’ first U.S. store, called the Living Lab, is a A copy of the judgment was not available at orders and seizure orders. 4 space-age cosmetics emporium at the Beverly Center in Los Angeles. press time. Neither Lan nor his attorney could not LVMH has been stepping up its anticounterfeit- RTW: After 15 years of making wedding dresses, Vera Wang is branching be reached for comment. ing efforts, investing an estimated 12 million 5 into eveningwear, with a sales goal of $50 million in three years. Rolex first filed suit against Lan in December euros, or $13.6 million, last year. 2003. According to an amended complaint filed in Other luxury watch manufacturers have found IN TRANSIT: There’s concern that the end of the quota system Jan. 1 will February 2004, Lan sold watches that were “iden- recent success in their battles against online re- 22 bring a surge in shipments and potential for backups at Pacific ocean ports. tical with, or substantially indistinguishable tailers selling counterfeit goods. TEXTILES: The Moda In featured an array of colors and patterns, as textile from” legitimate Rolex products. In August, Cartier won two such battles against 24 firms focused the fashion spotlight on Italian fabric for next fall and winter. Rolex sought redress on five counts in the com- online retailers selling imitation Cartier, Panerai plaint, including trademark counterfeiting and and Piaget watches. In both cases, the luxury goods A section covering the Emmy Awards appears on pages 9-20. unfair competition. The company also sought pos- designer and manufacturer accused two online re- Obituary ..................................................................................................27 session of the domain names and monetary dam- tailers of modifying authentic Cartier watches and Classified Advertisements ..................................................................26-27 ages under the Anticybersquatting Consumer selling them as upscale models. The lawsuits re- Protection Act. sulted in injunctions against the retailers. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is The ruling marks another victory for the law According to the complaints, the online retailers [email protected], using the individual’s name. firm Gibney, Anthony & Flaherty, which earlier obtained authentic Cartier watches, then added di- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. this month scored a win for LVMH Moët Hennessy amonds in a pattern that imitated the diamond VOLUME 188, NO. 62. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Louis Vuitton in its case against 29 Chinatown re- placement of higher-end models. It was also alleged issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three tailers selling counterfeit Louis Vuitton and Fendi that stainless steel metal bands were polished to additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; handbags. give the appearance of Cartier’s white gold models. Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. 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I had my tin cup out to screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive Jacobs International LLC has re- brand, in 1994. The business has those guys many times. We these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. newed its partnership with grown to 26 retail locations, in- would not be in business today WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND Mitsubishi International and cluding two freestanding stores without them.” TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART Renown Look Inc. through 2009. in Aoyama and Osaka. 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