WWD Inside: APPAREL DRIVES NIKE/3 VERA’S NEW LINE/5 Top 10 EmmyAwardsPg. 9-20 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • September 21, 2004 • $2.00 Style Setters Ready-to-Wear/Textiles The Simple Life NEW YORK — No matter how elaborately ornamented other designers’ collections become, Francisco Costa has been sticking to his minimalist ways for Calvin Klein, and he continued to do so for spring. His mission, as Costa put it, is “to keep bringing the essence of Calvin Klein forward.” So it isn’t surprising that refreshingly simple looks dominated the line, like the silk jersey dress, here, that opened the presentation. Its subtle draping is part of a Grecian trend on the runways this season. For more on the shows, see pages 6 to 8.

Christian Dior Couture Profits Jump 37 Percent On Bags and Men’s Wear By Miles Socha PARIS — Powered in part by sales of Rasta accessories and modernist men’s wear, Christian Dior Couture’s operating profits soared 37 percent in the first half. The results, less than a week after LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton posted a 49 percent jump in net income, underscore how one of Bernard Arnault’s most treasured fashion properties is fast becoming another cash cow among his vast constellation of luxury holdings. Indeed, Dior president Sidney Toledano confirmed the fashion house is See Dior, Page25 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDTUESDAY Rolex Wins $10.3M Trademark Ruling Ready-to-Wear/Textiles By Ross Tucker FASHION According to the judge’s ruling in that case, Greek column dresses were strong on the spring runways, from Carolina each retailer was ordered to pay LVMH $16 mil- Herrera’s one-shoulder look to BCBG Max Azria’s Empire-waist style. NEW YORK — Rolex Watch U.S.A. Inc. was award- lion in statutory damages — an award that, in the- 6 ed $10.3 million in damages relating to a trade- ory, entitles the luxury goods giant to a total of mark infringement case against an Internet retail- $464 million. In addition to the damages, Judge er doing business under various Web addresses. Thomas P. Griesa ordered all imitation bags and GENERAL Powered in part by sales of its Rasta accessories and modernist men’s In a Sept. 16 filing, Manhattan Federal Court accessories to be handed over to the company. Judge Richard C. Casey ruled against defendant The original complaint, filed March 2, accused 1 wear, Christian Dior’s operating profits soared 37 percent in the first half. Jimmy Lan, who was accused of selling imitation the tenants of selling counterfeit Louis Vuitton Growing usage of performance fabrics by consumers bolstered Nike’s apparel watches under various monikers including the and Fendi merchandise. The tenants, said the 3 sales, which jumped 12.9 percent to $391 million in the first quarter. Swiss Replica Watch, The Swiss Replica Co., swiss- suit, continued to sell the items despite several replica.com, fakerolex.net and rolexreplica.us. raids and the issuance of temporary restraining BEAUTY BEAT: L’Oréal Paris’ first U.S. store, called the Living Lab, is a A copy of the judgment was not available at orders and seizure orders. 4 space-age cosmetics emporium at the Beverly Center in Los Angeles. press time. Neither Lan nor his attorney could not LVMH has been stepping up its anticounterfeit- RTW: After 15 years of making wedding dresses, Vera Wang is branching be reached for comment. ing efforts, investing an estimated 12 million 5 into eveningwear, with a sales goal of $50 million in three years. Rolex first filed suit against Lan in December euros, or $13.6 million, last year. 2003. According to an amended complaint filed in Other luxury watch manufacturers have found IN TRANSIT: There’s concern that the end of the quota system Jan. 1 will February 2004, Lan sold watches that were “iden- recent success in their battles against online re- 22 bring a surge in shipments and potential for backups at Pacific ocean ports. tical with, or substantially indistinguishable tailers selling counterfeit goods. TEXTILES: The Moda In featured an array of colors and patterns, as textile from” legitimate Rolex products. In August, Cartier won two such battles against 24 firms focused the fashion spotlight on Italian fabric for next fall and winter. Rolex sought redress on five counts in the com- online retailers selling imitation Cartier, Panerai plaint, including trademark counterfeiting and and Piaget watches. In both cases, the luxury goods A section covering the Emmy Awards appears on pages 9-20. unfair competition. The company also sought pos- designer and manufacturer accused two online re- Obituary ...... 27 session of the domain names and monetary dam- tailers of modifying authentic Cartier watches and Classified Advertisements ...... 26-27 ages under the Anticybersquatting Consumer selling them as upscale models. The lawsuits re- Protection Act. sulted in injunctions against the retailers. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is The ruling marks another victory for the law According to the complaints, the online retailers [email protected], using the individual’s name. firm Gibney, Anthony & Flaherty, which earlier obtained authentic Cartier watches, then added di- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. this month scored a win for LVMH Moët Hennessy amonds in a pattern that imitated the diamond VOLUME 188, NO. 62. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Louis Vuitton in its case against 29 Chinatown re- placement of higher-end models. It was also alleged issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three tailers selling counterfeit Louis Vuitton and Fendi that stainless steel metal bands were polished to additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; handbags. give the appearance of Cartier’s white gold models. Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR Marc Jacobs Seeks Jolt in Japan DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production NEW YORK — As part of its plan to Mitsubishi, which was the dent, said, “After we got fired correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, to bolster business in the ever-in- first licensed partner to sign a from Perry Ellis, they kept us in please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully fluential Japanese market, Marc deal with the Marc Jacobs business. I had my tin cup out to screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive Jacobs International LLC has re- brand, in 1994. The business has those guys many times. We these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. newed its partnership with grown to 26 retail locations, in- would not be in business today WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND Mitsubishi International and cluding two freestanding stores without them.” TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART Renown Look Inc. through 2009. in Aoyama and Osaka. Duffy noted that Mitsubishi WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Marc Jacobs and Robert During a phone interview and Renown Look were the sole ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. Duffy have long been committed Monday, Duffy, Jacobs’ presi- supporters early on and often advanced money against future royalties. “From manufacturing to financial support, they have In Brief been a great partner for more than 10 years,” he said. Marc Jacobs executives de- ● PENBERTHY TO LORO PIANA: Elizabeth Penberthy has joined clined to comment on interna- Loro Piana as senior vice president of its wholesale division. She tional annual volume, but indus- is based in New York and reports to Pier Guerci, president. With try sources said retail sales are more than 15 years of experience in sales, Penberthy was most re- TIGER BUTTON CO., INC. expected to climb to $400 million cently divisional vice president of international sales for Coach. this year from $250 million a year Penberthy heads up the sales team, a responsibility formerly han- TIGER TRIMMING, INC. dled by Sandra Verbeck, who remains with the company as vice Marc Jacobs 307 West 38th Street New York, NY 10018 president of the luxury goods division. Penberthy said her two and Robert (212)594-0570 800-223-2754 FAX (212)695-0265 priorities are to “further strengthen the existing business with Duffy Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and other high-end specialty email: [email protected] www.TIGERBUTTON.com stores and [to build] a high-performance team.”

● CATALANO JOINS EASEL: Richard Catalano, an apparel indus- try veteran, has been named president of Easel, Cloth by Easel and Knitastiks by Easel. Most recently, Catalano was president of Loveletters Inc., a Los Angeles-based loungewear-sleepwear TED line, for a year and a half. Loveletters has retained Catalano as a PRIN consultant. Earlier, he held management posts at Vakko, Steve D & SOLI ENS Madden Sportswear and Jeans and Finity, and before that was OF OV ago. Marc Jacob products are dis- president and chief executive officer of Episode USA, and ceo AMS CH W OGR RET tributed in more than 10 coun- and partner at Adrienne Vittadini, where he worked 10 years. PR & ST TOCK ED tries, including South Korea, He began his career at Evan-Picone. Catalano, who reports to IN-S N-DY YAR wear • Menswear • Childrenswear China and several in Europe. Neil Weiss, chairman, will be responsible for Easel brands and Womens “We’re growing so quickly Knitastiks private label programs. Easel is a contemporary knit- Loungewear • UniformsCUSTOM • Accessories DESIGN • PRINTING • DYEING right now. Our Japanese busi- ted sportswear collection that features novelty sweaters and fab- INTERNATIONAL SALES AND SHIPPING ness is the most established, so rics. Cloth by Easel is a recently launched collection of contem- NEW YORK SHOWROOM: TEXTILE ARTS MARKETING • 40 WEST 37TH STREET #802 • PHONE: 212-868-9040 it’s a matter of tinkering with porary tops and novelty Ts. LOS ANGELES HEADQUARTERS & SHOWROOM: 129 WEST 132 STREET • PHONE: 800-877-2066 • FAX: 800-788-5283 it,” Duffy said. “We’re willing to In other moves, Barrie Taylor has joined Easel and Cloth by do whatever they want to do.” Easel as sales manager, a post previously held by Elaine That could mean a variety of Goldthwaite, who was promoted to sales manager for Knitastiks things, including developing private label. Previously, Taylor was senior account executive at ROBERTA Jacobs’ home collection in Japan. the Bella Dahl/Jolna Design Group. Both will report to Catalano. “Japan is crucial to every SCARPA company. There are certain cat- egories that we’ve got to work on,” Duffy said. “One area we Show-room Attila: really want to work on is acces- Correction 552, Seventh Avenue, 2nd Floor sories, especially handbags.” E. Edward Kavanaugh plans to retire as president of the In other news, Jacobs has de- New York, NY 10018 Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association around the middle signed a T-shirt for tonight’s of 2005 and Carolyn J. Deaver is expected to step down as vice tel. 1.212.944.4700 North American film premiere president of the CTFA Foundation about the same time. The tim- fax 1.212.921.0123 of “Peace One Day” at the Zieg- ing of their respective retirements was incorrectly given in an feld Theater. article that appeared on page 12, Sept. 17. — Rosemary Feitelberg WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004 3 WWW.WWD.COM Apparel Leads Nike to Strong 1Q Performance By Vicki M. Young percent to $11.4 million. Nike performance Also contributing to the quarter’s rev- NEW YORK — Growing acceptance of apparel with the enue stream was Converse, which the performance fabrics by consumers bol- Swift technology company acquired in the second quarter stered Nike’s apparel sales, which was a strong of fiscal 2004. “For the quarter, revenues jumped 12.9 percent in the first quarter, performer this from other businesses grew 64 percent to while outpacing footwear and equipment season. Here, a $435 million. The acquisition of Converse for the company in three out of four geo- Nike Swift suit. contributed about three-quarters of that graphic regions. growth. Cole Haan had another stellar For the period ended August 31, net quarter as revenues advanced 30 percent,” income for the world’s largest athletic noted Don Blair, chief financial officer. footwear firm rose 25 percent to $326.8 In August, the company purchased the million, or $1.21 a diluted share, from Starter brand, a licensed apparel busi- $261.2 million, or 98 cents, in the same ness. Starter is part of Exeter Brands, year-ago quarter. Revenues gained 17.7 which Nike launched as a way to funnel percent to $3.56 billion from $3.02 billion. product into the discount channel. Profits came in at 10 cents above Wall “The purpose, in addition to the incre- Street’s best guess. mental revenue and profit, will allow us Philip Knight, chairman and chief fi- to expand our distribution into the value nancial officer, said in a statement, channel, a large and growing market and “We’re off to a great start. Our first-quar- one in which we have not participated,” ter revenues reached record levels driv- said Charles Denson, also president of en by strong results around the world the Nike brand. and across all our brands. These results He also said that while it’s too early in reflect both the strength of our brands and rowing. quarter. Inventories at the stores have the process to say what opportunities and our ability to execute across our Consumers also are embracing Nike’s been tight, to the point where a major there may be overseas, the company is portfolio of businesses.” Sphere technology with high-in-demand issue has been lack of inventory, and evaluating the business as a global brand Executives who spoke during the com- products such as women’s Sphere dry even factory outlet stores are having less opportunity. pany’s conference call to Wall Street ana- woven jacket and dry woven pant. The merchandise than in previous years, ac- Following the earnings release, Lehman lysts attributed the increases in the quar- two items contributed to a “robust back- cording to executives on the call. Brothers analyst Robert Drbul raised his ter to a heightened brand awareness to-school season for Nike that is driving The biggest growth region was Asia fiscal year 2005 earnings per share estimate from its five-continent, multievent mar- healthy futures orders for spring 2005,” Pacific, where apparel sales shot up 31.3 to $4.25 from $4.05 and fiscal year 2006 EPS keting campaign that focused on speed said Mark Parker, president of the Nike percent to $148.8 million from $113.3 mil- estimate to $4.80 from $4.60. as its central theme. Boosting sales of ap- brand. lion. Footwear sales climbed 7.8 percent Drbul wrote in a report, “We strongly parel products has been increasing ac- Nike’s Sphere technology features to $218.6 million, and equipment sales believe that Nike has never been better ceptance by consumers for performance moisture-wicking properties, and is de- gained 21 percent to $38.6 million from managed from a strategic and financial fabrics such as Nike’s Swift technology. signed to keep athletes dry and cool as $31.9 million. The second largest area of perspective.” He also added that Nike Years in development, the Swift tech- they work out. It’s used in a variety of the growth was the European region, which continues to generate significant free nology is designed to improve perform- company’s performance offerings, includ- includes sales from the Middle East and cash flow. In fiscal 2004, free cash flow ance with elements such as breathable ing T-shirts, jackets and tennis dresses. Africa. Apparel sales jumped 19.8 per- from operations was $1 billion, and $308 panels and specially placed seams. First Sales of apparel in the U.S. climbed to cent to $409.7 million from $341.9 million, million for the first quarter of 2005. Nike worn in a track-and-field event in the $391.3 million from $346.5 million last while footwear gained 12.4 percent to used part of the cash to repurchase 2.1 Summer Olympic Games in Sydney, year, with footwear rising 12 percent to $663.3 million and equipment sales rose million shares at a cost of $155.2 million. Australia, in 2000, the technology has $921.4 million and equipment sales up 11 7 percent to $84.9 million. Apparel sales Shares of Nike closed up 1.8 percent, evolved into suits that are lighter and percent to $89 million. Same-store sales in the Americas region fell 8 percent to or $1.44, to $78 in trading Monday on the more breathable, and is now incorporat- for Nike Town stores grew 9 percent in $35.5 million from $38.6 million, while New York Stock Exchange. ed into Nike’s products for other sports the period, while U.S. futures orders rose footwear increased 11.6 percent to $114.8 —With contributions from such as cycling, speed skating, swimming more than 11 percent versus the year-ago million and equipment sales climbed 19 Melanie Kletter

celebrities in attendance. talent is the Distillers, who will play a rare acoustic set. (Sarah Michelle Gellar failed to (Relax moms and dads, distilled spirits will only be show, as did Jamie-Lynn served by bartenders checking IDs.) “I definitely walked MEMO PAD DiScala, who had stayed up away from last year’s party wowed by all the kids,” said late Sunday night celebrating senior editor and gatekeeper of the guest list, Nicole the Emmy wins of “The Vecchiarelli, who helped organize the first “Young Sen. John Kerry Sopranos.”) Uma Thurman, who Hollywood” party at a private home in Beverly Hills. was honored for her work with “This year we wanted to take it up a notch, make it more the charity Room to Grow, led about Hollywood,” said Vecchiarelli. “We thought the a standing ovation when fellow Chateau would be a better venue for that.” Expected honoree Gloria Wilderbrathwaite guests include Adam Brody, Rachel Bilson, Kate Bosworth, criticized President Bush’s Gael García Bernal, Mandy Moore, October covergirl record on childhood poverty. Kirsten Dunst and the man who shot her, Mario Testino. “I Also on hand was Dylan think it’s going to be a good turnout this year [thanks to McDermott, looking like a chic Testino],” said Vecchiarelli. “A lot of young actresses are Grizzly Adams in a Gucci suit trying to start their own relationship with him.” Working and a thick beard, which he relationship, that is. Two notables who won’t be in grew for his role in the attendance: the Bush twins, Jenna and Barbara. They upcoming film “The regretted through their press secretary, which means no Tennants,” co-starring Snoop Jenna in the pool à la Alice Roosevelt. — Sara James PHOTO BY GERALD HERBERT/AP PHOTOS HERBERT/AP GERALD PHOTO BY Dogg. Asked who had his vote Uma in November, McDermott PEACE TALKS: Are New York’s warring gossips going soft CAMPAIGN STOP: John Kerry is reputed to be something of a Thurman didn’t hesitate: “Kerry all the on each other? Not quite, although that was the stiff, but at Redbook’s Mothers & Shakers Awards luncheon PHOTO BY JAMIE MCCARTHY/WIREIMAGE way.” — Jeff Bercovici impression some took away from last week’s gossip Monday the Democratic presidential candidate and junior summit at the 92nd Street Y. At several points during senator from Massachusetts was a veritable firecracker PUBLISHER SHUFFLE: Susan Plagemann, publisher of the the panel discussion, Lloyd Grove, who writes the compared with his wife. The normally feisty Teresa Heinz recently shuttered Lifetime magazine, has found a new “Lowdown” column for the New York Daily News, made Kerry sounded as if she might nod off any moment as she job at Hearst — someone else’s. Plagemann has been what seemed like friendly overtures toward New York recited a 15-minute speech about the importance of family named vice president and publisher of Marie Claire, Post Page Six editor Richard Johnson. Grove, who and diversity in promoting philanthropy. Or was it the replacing Katherine Rizzuto, who is departing the relishes pointing out the Post’s peccadilloes in his importance of diversity and philanthropy in promoting company. Ad pages in Marie Claire were down 6.3 column, marveled at Johnson’s “amazing” productivity family? Hard to say — as the candidate himself put it in his percent through September, totaling 1,019.9, according and praised him for shaming lying publicists in print. keynote address, “Our attention span is not very large.” He to Media Industry Newsletter. Before Lifetime, “I’m too scared to do that,” Grove said. Afterward, was referring not to his wife’s speech, however, but to “the Plagemann was publisher of Cosmopolitan, and she has however, Grove denied he was trying to butter up his plethora of media outlets [which] kind of crushes the also held positions at Esquire and Mademoiselle. foe. “I was merely stating my beliefs, not holding out an consciousness.” Kerry, who made headlines Monday with Lifetime editor in chief Susan Wyland is also staying on olive branch,” he said via e-mail Thursday. “I will his four-point plan to stabilize Iraq, also touched on the with a job in Hearst’s magazine development unit. — J.B. continue to write about Page Six in ways that Richard usual topics in his address: the war, the economy, health might not appreciate when I think it’s appropriate to my care, education and, of course, his mane. “My staff told POOL PARTY: It’s, like, prom week on the Sunset Strip, column.” Johnson, for his part, professed to be me, ‘Don’t worry, you’re having a good hair day,’” he joked. where Teen Vogue is hosting its second annual Young unmoved by Grove’s flattering words, whatever their The Kerrys’ uninspiring performance did not seem to Hollywood party. (Teen Vogue, like WWD, is a unit of intent. “Lloyd’s always been very cordial and amiable in hurt the candidate’s support among the handful of Advance Publications Inc.) The place is the Chateau person,” he said. “It’s just in print where he’s been Marmont, poolside. The time is Thursday night. And the bothersome.” — J.B. 4 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM L’Oréal Looks Into Future With First U.S. Unit Then there is the pod. Vanilla suede covers a high bar stool and a curving bench for a friend or two to share in the lighting experience, thanks to lighting specialist Bill Schwinghammer, who col- laborated with Glide Inc. engineers Dave Liatti and Steve Feurborn. Touch the screen bar labeled “bath- room” and the pod lights up as it would at home. The range of settings goes from candlelight in a restaurant, to the sun- light of the beach, to even the glare of the red carpet. There are even options de- signed to give the impression of being at L.A. hot spots like Dolce, Koi, Concorde, Joseph’s and others. Nightlife impresario Brent Bolthouse collaborated on the settings. He also staged Friday’s opening like a nightclub, complete with a deejay and plenty of tray-passed lemon drops. Hamilton declined to discuss the costs for the build-out or how much the store might generate in terms of sales volume, but according to area realtors, stores in the Beverly Center typically generate as much as $700 in sales per square foot. A second Living Lab is slated to open before the holidays at the West Farms Shopping Center in West Hartford, Conn. The signature stores, Hamilton believes, will make the beauty company a better partner with its thousands of retailers. “They ask us all the time how they can better merchandise the product. We can give them advice, but this gives us hands- on experience.” While focus groups are good, she noted, they only “take you to a certain level. More and more, we’re realizing we need to touch our consumers at the A shot of the point of contact with the product. We makeup counter might be number one in the industry, Milla Jovovich and Carol Hamilton at the Living Lab. but we need to know more, we need to PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA be better.” LOS ANGELES — At the touch of a vant,” she said. “At the same time, you’re of glossy red paint on the white floor — — Rose Apodaca Jones screen, like something from the Holo- learning what really works.” which also represents “a new beauty deck on the Star Trek Enterprise, the in- Peppered throughout the space are journey,” said Hamilton, stating another side of a 64-square-foot pod, upholstered placards, some printed with sound bites of the retail enterprise’s mantras. There Game, Set and Parlux Match in plush cream suede, transitions from for makeup application, others with are “play stations” — curving red-and- NEW YORK — First Paris, now Maria. the fluorescent brightness of an office to L’ Oréal’s signature witticisms. white open tester islands — that are one- Wimbledon champion Maria Shara- the red glow of nearby Hollywood hot So, too, are some of their new mes- ended with a Corian sink so that “cus- pova, 17, has inked a licensing agreement spot Spider Club. sages — like “Don’t Look Your Age,” tomers don’t even have to ask to use it.” with Parlux Fragrances Inc. to launch a But this is no spaceship — nor is it a “Make it Up,” and, marking the men’s Across the top, jutting from the surface of signature fragrance in 2005. Sharapova’s Hollywood stage set, for that matter. It’s line, “Be A Man.” They are brandished in a crescent Corian counter, are dozens of deal comes on the heels of the company’s the TrueLight pod, an enclosed alcove sharp, lively graphics clear tubes tipped with agreement with Paris Hilton, who was re- designed to give a better sense of make- across lighted panels thick swatches of hair in cently brought on board to create and up and hair color in true-life scenarios. rimming the ceiling. L’ Oréal shades. market her own signature fragrance. And it’s located inside L’Oréal Paris’ first The graphics, created by BEAUTY BEAT “We really wanted “Maria’s rise in the tennis world has U.S. store, called the Living Lab, at the Base Design, are made women — and men — to been noteworthy,” said Kathleen Galvin, Beverly Center here. up of a pattern of small bottle and jar sil- feel they can just flow through the store, vice president of marketing for Fort “It’s about time that L’Oréal [Paris] fi- houettes that are colored to spell out the with nothing in between them and the Lauderdale, Fla.-based Parlux Fra- nally opened up a store,” said Milla words. product or staff,” said Hamilton, dis- grances. “She is bright, engaging and Jovovich, the beauty brand’s spokesmod- The 2,300-square-foot retail space, cussing the store’s inspiration. “The idea loves fashion. She is incredibly excited, el, who was on hand for the space’s open- bookended in the shopping center by Just was in the Living Lab concept. We talk to and we believe it will be a success.” ing bash Friday night. Nicole Richie, Bai Cavalli and Max & Co., is as much a strik- our customers all the time in focus Parlux is also home to fragrance brands including Guess, Perry Ellis and Fred Hayman Beverly Hills. Sharapova is the world’s ninth-ranked We talk to our customers all the time in focus groups. But to talk to her tennis player and this year became one “ of the youngest women to capture the at the point of sale, where she’s thinking about beauty and really able to ask Wimbledon crown. The Russian native has a fan base that is expanding locally the questions that are on her mind — that’s where we are going to learn. and globally, and the prestige and pres- — Carol Hamilton, L’Oréal” Paris ence of the Parlux brand could strongly resonate throughout Eastern Europe. “Tennis is and will always be her Ling and Anna Kournikova also attend- ing visual experience as it is a triumph of groups. But to talk to her at the point of main priority, but she will certainly be as ed, not to mention Jean-Paul Agon, presi- a mass brand showcased in hip, prestige sale, where she’s thinking about beauty involved as much as possible,” said dent and chief executive officer of environs. Hamilton and her team chose and really able to ask the questions that Sharapova’s agent, Max Isenbud. “We L’ Oréal USA; Joseph Campinell, presi- South African architect Lindy Roy out of a are on her mind — that’s where we are fully realize she is becoming a brand, dent of the L’Oréal Consumer Products group of eight who were paid to compete going to learn.” and this was the right move at the right division, and L’Oréal Paris president and for the commission. Hamilton noted that Along the walls on either side of the time. It will reflect what Maria is: classy general manager Carol Hamilton. about 80 percent of the line is available space are lit acrylic shelves filled with and elegant.” “Their products are great,” Jovovich here. “Lindy [Roy] understood the role the product. The brightly colored bottles of In addition to Parlux, the tennis star continued, as she stood near a light box product should play,” she said. “When you sunscreen and hair product take on a signed a three-year licensing agreement with her photograph, “and they stand for look at a mass-marketed brand, all of our Pop Art effect here. On a wall of clear with electronics supplier Motorola last so many things — like no animal testing. logos aren’t the same. When you look at shelves are stacks of the silver, foil-cov- August. They give to great causes. A company this place, it’s not a museum.” ered photo books, called “Because I’m For Sharapova, the Parlux deal may with that kind of honesty and commit- The entrance in the space’s glass fa- Worth It,” that the company published be a perfect match. “This is a great op- ment should have its own store. It should- cade is framed by an oversized, broken last year. Next to them, boxes are filled portunity for me to do something creative n’t just be in a supermarket or drugstore.” silver “O,” which suggests arms embrac- with packaged 60-watt halogen bulbs. and fun,” Sharapova said in a statement. Hamilton is banking that consumers ing upwards and is a nod to the brand “It’s little touches like these that expand “I love the world of fashion and am look- will agree. “We wanted to make beauty name, Hamilton pointed out. Step in and the concept of the store,” Hamilton re- ing forward to experiencing it firsthand.” exciting, provocative and fun — and rele- onto the “red carpet” — actually a swirl marked. — Dawn S. Kissi WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004 5 WWW.WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report Vera Wang: Steady as She Grows

By Rosemary Feitelberg Three Wang and her right-hand man, Chet Hazzard, are not solely the looks one-two punch on the senior executive level. Sokol joined the NEW YORK — Vera Wang is not one to be called rash. from company last month, and with her arrival Hazzard assumed After 15 years of making wedding dresses — and doing Vera the title of vice chairman and maintains his role as chief oper- the painstaking alterations that sometimes go with them Wang’s ating officer. Wang continues as chairman and chief executive — the designer is putting her know-how and seamstress new officer, signing up Laura Lee Miller, the former Unilever skills into a more affordable dress collection. dress Prestige president, as executive vice president of licensing The concept initially stemmed from the success of her line. for VEW Ltd., Wang’s licensing division. Hazzard and Wang bridesmaid dress business, and now she is banking on the 40 said it also freed them to look at other opportunities. dresses to appeal to a broader age range — from sophisti- “I love to hear you say that, because I work seven cated prom-goers to well-maintained 60-year-olds. days a week,” Wang said, skeptically. The line is to be produced under the Vera Wang label. It “It never gets easier — even with a great team,” consists primarily of eveningwear, though it is priced consider- Hazzard said. ably lower than her collection eveningwear, which retails from Apparel sales are anticipated to rise 35 percent next $2,000 to $5,000. With retail prices of $395 to $1,100, the new group year, and the company is expected to exceed $200 million intends to build business in specialty and department stores. in retail sales, partly because of its new dress business and “The word is ‘attainable,’’ Wang said during a photo shoot its growing ready-to-wear. The company has ramped up its last week at her West 39th Street showroom. “I’m not implying production team in order to handle the additional business. it’s cheap, cheap. But at least it’s something they can afford.” Part of the executives’ increasingly busy days can be The dress collection should generate $50 million in retail chalked up to a renewed interest in the brand, as well as its sales within the next three years, said Susan Sokol, president $140 million licensing business at retail. Bergdorf Goodman of Vera Wang Apparel. plans to open the designer’s first designated area on its third A white matte jersey cocktail dress, a black halter dress floor in November. Earlier this month, Wang’s 7th on Sixth with a sequined waistband and a strapless floral dress with runway show received enthusiastic reviews, and the design- banded tulle are among the styles. As a model breezed by in a er collection will be available in 60 to 70 doors. floor-length black Chantilly lace dress with horizontal pleats In terms of potential direction, handbags are “clearly an at the bodice, Wang said, “This is our vocabulary — pleating, opportunity, and lingerie is absolutely on our chart,” as are borders, banding. We’ve been very successful with these accessories, Hazzard said. The company is considering doing things. But by successful, I mean selling 25 pieces. Now we’ll accessories in-house. In the next year, bed and bath products be able to do this and reach such as sheets and towels will be added to the home col- Chet more people.” lection. Sleepwear and shoes are also being considered. Hazzard, The company does not “It may sound very last-minute, but it’s been a Vera Wang release sales figures, but long time coming,” Wang said. industry sources said its “Laborious,” Hazzard added, drawing out the and Susan wholesale bridal, brides- syllables for effect. Sokol. maid, eveningwear and Much of Wang’s licensed merchandise, such as ready-to-wear generates china, glassware and silver, was inspired by the $24 million in annual publication of her first book, “Vera Wang on sales, and its Madison Weddings,” in 2001. But Wang is quick to Avenue store rings up an note it took years to develop each cate- additional $12 million in gory, and slow and steady is the pace retail sales each year. she prefers. The dress collec- “I own my own business, so money tion comes at a time is a concern,’’ she said. “I have to make of change for the decisions with Chet to be sure we have company. For the the right financing to do all this. That is a dis-

PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY first time in 15 years, cipline I have had for 15 years.”

Lee Young Hee Nicole Miller Takes Better Route With Donnkenny Visits New York By Evan Clark clothing, mainly because I just wouldn’t Miller women’s coats, which are in trust anybody in clothing,” Konheim said. about 100 shops, with 500 doors pro- NEW YORK — Nicole Miller and Donnkenny “When we both met Dan, it was like a jected for fall 2005. To Open Museum Inc. want to bring a young designer sensibil- breath of fresh air in the garment center.” Sophia Tezel is designing the bet- NEW YORK — Lee Young ity to better-priced sportswear and ready-to- Konheim said it would have taken at ter-priced lines with direction from Hee, a leading fashion design- wear with the Nicole Miller New York line. least five years for Nicole Miller to Miller. Tezel had her own collection er in South Korea, will be here The addition of better-priced sportswear, develop the sourcing and retail rela- in the Nineties and previously today to host a fashion show along with related separates and suits, all tionships to properly enter the better worked for the designer. and unveil the Lee Young Hee produced under license by Donnkenny, area on its own. The line mirrors Miller’s higher- Museum at 2 West 32nd Street. helps round out the brand’s offerings. The Better-priced sportswear has been end collections — for instance, inter- The museum — a first of its two companies completed the licensing an active segment of the market, preting the Celtic runway looks kind in New York — cele- agreement in February. Nicole Miller, with the launch this season of through T-shirts printed with Celtic brates Korean fashion, art and which has 30 of its own stores, already Michael Michael Kors coming symbols. design, and aims to evolve produces the new Nicole Miller after new and revamped introduc- “Our goal for sportswear was to into an important cultural in- Signature premium line, the core tions from high-powered names make it look like young designer,” stitution. Hee has donated Nicole Miller Collection and the such as Tommy Hilfiger, Bromer said. “Too many people out more than 1,000 traditional contemporary Miller Girl lines. Ralph Lauren and Jones there are trying to be contemporary.” Korean costumes and pieces There is also a collection of house- New York. The sportswear, under the Nicole for this exhibition, including wares sold at Bed, Bath & Beyond. The new line “marries Miller New York label, has a flirty, many that will be on view for Even though the designer has beautifully to the parent casual sensibility and includes such the first time here. The artis- put together her signature line for brand,” said Elissa Bromer, looks as white crocheted tops and tic installation celebrates her 22 years, Bud Konheim, chief exec- group president of Nicole skirts with butterfly detailing. culture, commemorating the utive officer of Nicole Miller, said Miller at Donnkenny. Jackets from the collection whole- 100th anniversary of Korean attaching the “young designer” Bromer joined the firm sale for $75 to $95, while blouses go immigration to the U.S. description to the new collection earlier this year after serv- for $35 to $45 and pants for $45 to $55. At a 4 p.m. fashion show, is appropriate. “Her take has ing as president of the “‘Sexy’ is no longer a dirty word,” Hee will showcase her always been on the young side of Perry Ellis women’s divi- Two Nicole Miller Bromer said. “This woman wants to spring collection as well as everything,” he said. sion of Public Clothing Co. looks for spring. look sexy even though she’s going to traditional pieces such as Konheim searched for a vendor Better separates will the grocery store.” hanbok, the traditional cos- to make better-priced products be the largest portion of this offering. The related separates portion of the line tume of Korea, with roots as bearing the designer’s name for two For spring, Bromer plans to have the is called NicKnits and includes some novel- far back as 57 B.C. years, eventually signing on with separates in 800 stores, while suits will ty printing, such as a living-room scene, There are also antique ac- Donnkenny, under the guidance of roll out to 500 locations and sportswear capelets and a nod to bridal heavily cessories, jewelry with pre- chairman and ceo Daniel Levy. to 350. Konheim estimated the offerings adorned with beads. cious and semiprecious stones Before that, trust was the big sticking will produce sales of about $10 million Starting with February magazines, the and ceremonial robes with point, breaking apart at least one deal. during their first season. Nicole Miller brand overall will be backed elaborate headdresses dating “We never contemplated licensing Donnkenny also produces Nicole up by a $3.5 million ad budget for spring. back hundreds of years. PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY 6 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004

Donna Karan BCBG Max Azria Vera Wang

Grecian For mula NEW YORK — Greek column dresses were important looks on the spring runways, and they took on a range of guises, from Carolina Herrera’s long, subtle one-shoulder look to an Empire-waisted number with an abbreviated layered skirt from BCBG Max Azria. WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004 7 WWW.WWD.COM Carolina Herrera Costello Tagliapietra PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE AND ROBERT MITRA GEORGE CHINSEE AND ROBERT CENTENO, TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM English Roses – and Other Blossoms Paul Smith Temperley Nicole Farhi Fashion Scoops NOT SO FROSTY: It’s hard to pinpoint what she’s doing right, but Frost French designer Sadie Frost managed to get both of her ex-husbands to see her show on Sunday: Jude Law and the former Spandau Ballet star Gary Kemp. Law was there with his girlfriend, Sienna Miller, Sienna Miller and while Kate Moss, Samantha Morton, Matthew Jude Law Williamson, Tracey Emin, Damon Dash and Dash’s son Boogie were among Clements those also seeing the Ribeiro presentation, held in the bar of the Titanic in Soho. Frost French’s hasty venture into knitwear last fall — not a good idea — was put on ice this season as Frost and her design partner, Jemima French, PHOTOS BY RICHARD YOUNG/REX FEATURES RICHARD YOUNG/REX PHOTOS BY stuck to what they do best: Kate Moss and pretty chiffon. In a blink- Damon Dash and-you-miss-it show, set to the sounds of motorcycles revving, the focus was on sheer dresses, tea-style or tiered.

LET THEM EAT CAKE: Fashionistas can finally have their Jimmy Choos — and eat them, too. The Berkeley hotel has introduced Pret-a-Portea, afternoon tea with runway-inspired goodies, including hot-pink cookies in the shape of an Oscar de la Renta dress, tiny éclairs with Missoni stripes, an Anya Hindmarch chocolate Pandora handbag and a gingerbread Jimmy Choo boot. “It started when Nicole Kidman and Renée Zellweger Eley were staying at the hotel, and we sent up dress- Kishimoto shaped cookies to their rooms,” said Paula Ellesse Fitzherbert, p.r. director of the hotel. All of the cakes and cookies are made by the resident pastry chefs, while the patisserie’s creative LONDON — Although some of this city’s best-known names Nicole Farhi: Flower power is the director attends shows during London Fashion have dropped off the calendar, London’s other designers london catchphrase chez Farhi. The Week to get inspiration for colors and textures. are moving right along, and the mood of fashion week, designer filled her runway with one So far, Fitzherbert has run into problems only which began on Sunday, is decidedly upbeat. Houses in- sweet and colorful look after with Chanel. “They won’t allow me to copy the cluding Paul Smith, Nicole Farhi, Frost French and Emma another, and the floral prints were handbag,” she said, adding that she has already Cook showed collections blooming with color, a riot of everywhere. Using ribbon trim, Farhi turned the Fendi baguette into a chocolate flower prints and wild patterns. made geraniums three-dimensional on dresses, skirts and square with white icing. tops, and she also mixed buds and stripes to great effect on Paul Smith: “I am trying to be positive,” said Paul Smith after fluid wrap dresses. Jackets were assembled from cutout FASHION ROCKS: Vivienne Westwood and Sex his show. “There’s so much trauma at the moment, I wanted flowers. “I had so much fun layering and mixing prints,” Pistols creator Malcolm McLaren, one of fashion’s this collection to remind us of nature, of a normal world.” said Farhi backstage after the show. And when her girl most influential couples, will be reunited later The presentation, in fact, featured a real grass catwalk and wasn’t skipping through the garden, she was wearing this week — in an exhibition, that is. “Punk: A lots of flower prints, along with the designer’s signature bleached denim jeans and a jacket with floral piping. At True and Dirty Tale,” which opens at The stripes. The show began with Space-Age sparkle: lavender cocktail time, the designer delivered with silk dresses Hospital in London’s Covent Garden on Thursday, metallic cable knits and little fitted jackets and tweed skirts featuring pleated ruffles falling in tiers, but those other will trace the most significant points in punk with jeweled trim. But then Smith landed back on earth in a taffeta numbers seemed a little stiff. rock’s history. Items from SEX and Seditionaries, fabulous English garden with a baker’s dozen of the shops owned by Westwood and McLaren, will photographic, digital and screen prints, some Liberty- Clements Ribeiro: For spring, design duo Suzanne Clements be on display at the multimedia venue and inspired, which turned up on such pieces as patchwork and Inacio Ribeiro were thinking about a botanist stuck in exhibition space opened by Dave Stewart of apron dresses, silk shirtdresses and shrunken cardigans. India. Strange inspiration, lovely results. Happily, the Eurythmics fame and Microsoft co-founder Paul Even the obi belts featured flower patterns. Smith, who collection wasn’t bogged down by exotic trappings, but Allen. There will also be handwritten lyrics from opened a 1,750-square-foot store in Shanghai in August and merely flavored with them. Chiffon in overscaled lotus the Sex Pistols album “Never Mind the Bollocks” who will open a 1,775-square-foot unit in Hong Kong in a few prints, for example, made for some pretty tops and a great and a blood-splattered poster from the infamous weeks, also showed featherweight caftans in shades of mint gown. Djellaba tops came with trompe l’oeil embroidery, Chelsea Hotel room where Sid Vicious allegedly and dusty rose, perfect for steamy summer nights. and silk dresses were pieced together and asymmetrically stabbed his girlfriend Nancy Spungen in 1978. draped to hint at India’s national uniform, the sari. There Assembled by art dealer Paul Stolper and Andrew Eley Kishimoto Ellesse: Move over, Venus and Serena. were the requisite cashmere knits, this time featuring pink- Wilson, who is deputy editor of Art Monthly, the You’re not the only fashion plates in the wide world of and-yellow zig-zags or clashing stripes. After years of exhibition will run until Jan. 23. sports. The latest competition is Eley Kishimoto Ellesse, collaborating with shoe designers, Clements Ribeiro are which debuted this season with pleated, patchwork tennis finally launching a footwear collection of their own this FASHION IN MOTION: London’s designers are proving skirts, satin turquoise baseball jackets and printed tennis season, and their platform sandals are sure to be a hit with they can dress the back end of a bus just as easily dresses — the kind Marcia Brady might have slipped on girls from Bombay to New York. as a runway model. Nine design houses, including for a hot date. Husband-and-wife team Mark Eley and Eley Kishimoto, Frost French, Julien Macdonald, Wakako Kishimoto, well known for their colorful, graphic Temperley: Alice Temperley knows what her “It” girls want. Tata Naka, Temperley and Betty Jackson, have prints with a retro feel, have teamed up with the sports Season after season, she serves up sequined cocktail dresses turned their attention to the city’s double-decker firm Ellesse in a three-season deal to create a new young and color-blocked knits with an Art Deco vibe. For spring, buses this fashion week. Each has given one bus a collection. “We were given free rein, and it felt like play,” Temperley softened and swapped the Deco for swirling Art dose of their signature look. Tata Naka’s bus, for said Eley after the show. “We were thinking about a lot of Nouveau patterns. Chiffon cocktail and evening numbers example, is covered in palm trees, while Eley ‘teams’ — sassy American rich kids who do lunch at the came in sea-foam and coral shades and sported tons of silver Kishimoto’s features a spinning man graphic from club, the council-estate crew — and even poetry readers.” sequins, while sweaters were bright with colorful intarsia the duo’s spring/summer ’05 collection, and The collection has a strong retro feeling with colors like reminiscent of a butterfly’s wings. A chiffon dress and skirt Macdonald’s is covered in — surprise — mustard, brown and aqua, and wholesales for slightly less sported a cool sequined cobweb motif. Temperley also has a fluorescent colors. Unveiled last week, the buses than the regular Eley Kishimoto line. A printed cotton soft spot for crochet, although sometimes she ventures too will stay in service until the end of the year. tennis dress will cost about $267, for example, and a satin far into granny territory. This season’s crocheted standout

baseball jacket $338. was a sexy black tea dress with lavender flowers. GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY PHOTOS BY JEFF KRAVITZ/FILMMAGIC WWD generation, inRandolphDuke. T Amber Tamblyn, oneofWWD’s op 10StyleSettersofthenext sophisticated ladies sophisticated sophisticated ladies sophisticated EmmyAwards Pa ges 9-20 10 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004

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Sarah Jessica Parker, Jennifer Aniston and their now-iconic senses of style may be relegated to syndication, but TV viewers this season will hardly go without great — or, at least, entertaining — fashion moments. After all, Debra Messing, Tracee Ellis Ross and Jennifer Garner return to their chart-topping, clothes-minded shows. And Heather Locklear is back with “LAX,” while Kelly Osbourne makes her network, and true acting, debut with the teen dramedy “Life as We Know It.” Ye t with a seismic shift under way on the air waves and the red carpet, WWD is marking the fifth anniversary of its TV’s Top 10 Style Setters by recognizing the next generation — with some tips from designers on how their looks should evolve. — Rose Apodaca Jones and Marcy Medina

SAMAIRE ARMSTRONG Spunky, superstylish Samaire Armstrong, 23, earned a fan base on Fox’s “The O.C.” that’s followed her to HBO and the comedy series “Entourage.” TV shows or personal style, Armstrong’s got a knack for hitting a trend before it becomes tired, then moving on to the next. Maybe it’s because she sews her own clothes. But designers such as Azria want to see her in their looks. Said Max Azria: “Samaire has great personal style and inner confidence, and seems to go for looks that are edgy and eclectic. I think she’d look fantastic in a shorter length dress, something a little irreverent that others might not be able to pull off.” True, there are few who can pull off the itsy-bitsy skirts, diaphanous tops and funky leggings that Armstrong wears like a second skin, but Carmen Marc Valvo says he’d like to see the pixie-ish actress try something a bit more classic. “Samaire is so sweet and flirtatious,” says the New York designer, “I’d like to see her in something with swing to it — something Audrey Hepburn would have worn.”

MISCHA BARTON Hands down, 18-year-old Mischa Barton is today’s fashion “It” girl. As the star of a hit show, “The O.C.” (which returned teen fashion to the air- waves), her personal style and off-cam- era dressing have catapulted her onto the pages and covers of magazines. MARSHA THOMASON “Mischa is at the forefront of a new She’s among the hot young things lighting up NBC’s “Las Vegas” as the generation of young actresses who are casino pit boss with the jackpot smile. Yet Marsha Thomason stands embracing fashion,” said Alberta apart from the pack of buxom babes of Monday’s must-see indulgence Ferretti. “Her style is eclectic, and at with her cool hang-with-the-boys attitude and that British accent. the same time very feminine and ele- No surprise, then, that the Manchester, U.K., native is a fixture gant. She is sophisticated for her age.” around L.A.’s night scene, but always as one of the crowd rather than Sophisticated, indeed, Valentino seeking the spotlight like other wild-child starlets. Her signature mix agreed. “Mischa feels comfortable in of Kangol caps, unusual jewelry, vintage and designers, however, high fashion. Her youthful innocence draws its share of flattering attention. On the red carpet, she’s gone allows her to wear very sexy designs. from Dior to Project Alabama, Costume National to BCBG. I would very much like to see her in “She has a strong sense of personal style,” said Cameron Silver one of our fall 2004 Helmut of Decades, where Thomason’s last purchase was a bright blue Newton-inspired looks that would Zandra Rhodes. “She’s a little bit more sophisticated than most give her an edge.” newcomers. Of course, she’s only new in the States.” Elie Saab is another designer While her American film gigs are more a reflection of the state of who would like to see Barton break minority roles in Hollywood (“My Baby’s Mama,” “Haunted Mansion”), out, because he believes “she can Thomason’s roles in Britain have tended toward the dramatic, or at pull off almost anything, even a very least demanding, from “Prime Suspect” to London’s West End stage. severe look.” “She’s the kind of the girl that doesn’t obsess over who the Halston’s Bradley Bayou couldn’t designers are, but rather whether it looks right on her,” said friend agree more. “I would like to see her Phillip Bloch. “I think it has a lot to do with that British thing, glam it up. She is too beautiful of a where she can throw something on eclectic and wear it with the woman to not show off on the red kind of attitude that makes it just look amazing.” carpet.” THOMASON, ARMSTRONG AND BARTON AT TEEN CHOICE AWARDS PHOTOS BY WIREIMAGE; BARTON IN GREEN BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO IN GREEN BY WIREIMAGE; BARTON PHOTOS BY TEEN CHOICE AWARDS AT THOMASON, ARMSTRONG AND BARTON YOUR LEFT HAND LIVES FOR LOVE. YOUR RIGHT HAND LIVES FOR THE MOMENT. YOUR LEFT HAND WANTS TO BE HELD. YOUR RIGHT HAND WANTS TO BE HELD HIGH. WOMEN OF THE WORLD, RAISE YOUR RIGHT HAND.

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Top right: ©2003 Caressa. Bottom right: ©2003 Universal Pacific. Top left: ©2003 Beaudry. Bottom left: public domain. The Forevermark is used under license. 12 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004

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Brad Pitt with Drea de Matteo in a Sarah Jessica Parker in Chanel Couture and Jennifer Aniston in chiffon Thirties gown from Fred Leighton jewels with Kristin Davis in Chanel Couture. The Paper Bag Princess. Prada with Fred Leighton jewels. sophisticated ladies

LOS ANGELES — Have celebrities finally mastered the art of dressing black and white — a dramatic, hand-painted Elie Saab Couture gown — during an up? Fashion don’ts usually run rampant at the Emmy Awards, but evening otherwise colored in bold brights. celebrants at Sunday night’s 56th installment of the biggest awards night Even those who tend to live in sneakers and slacks looked forward to this night eye® for television stars couldn’t help but notice how good they all looked. to dress up. “You know, I only get to do this a couple of times a year. I do like to “So many women looked gorgeous!” gushed Sarah Jessica Parker, break out in a suit every once in a while,” said Ellen DeGeneres, who turned out in who finally scored an Emmy after five years of nominations. “They an undone Viktor & Rolf tux, while gal pal Alexandra Hedison appeared on her arm looked like they were wearing the clothes — the clothes weren’t wearing them,” she in a black lace and nude gown by the Dutch duo. continued, poaching a famous quip from Coco Chanel — fitting, since Parker turned Laura Linney wasn’t shy about naming favorites: “If I can, I’ll always wear out for the second straight year clad in Chanel Couture. Prada.” Likewise, Gabrielle Union had her own fail-safe: “Armani keeps you off of Coincidence? “I would never pick a favorite designer,” she declared, insisting the ‘When bad clothes happen to good people’ list. I’m from Omaha, Nebraska, the choice of dress, not designer, was that of her husband’s, Matthew Broderick. honey. I can’t be doing too much crazy business out there.” “What do you think I am? Mad? It’s like fashion suicide!” Even newcomer Mischa Barton wasn’t about to go too out there. She wore a gold- Instances of death by dress were fewer than seasons past, be it because of savvy beaded, Twenties-style Maggie Norris sheath. “I chose it because it’s really individual or safety. Even the daring choice to go green, repeated several times in variegated and comfortable — and I didn’t want something that was too dangerous to wear.” hues, worked. Best actress winner Allison Janney, in a goddess Monique Lhuillier “Cold Case’s” Kathryn Morris, in a tangerine Carmen Marc Valvo, offered some gown, even joked on camera about the same shade of bright green she shared with practical advice. “Put it this way, I think a dress is a mistake if you’re worried about fellow nom Mariska Hartigay, in Vera Wang, when she asked her to join her on stage. your dress falling down. But you’ve got to fend for yourself out there,” she said, “Sopranos” daughter Jamie-Lynn DiScala also arrived in a Lhuillier, in sage satin while glancing back to check her chiffon train. “Men who played basketball this charmeuse. The designer, in fact, dressed the most stars Sunday night — four. (And morning think they’re still on the court,” she tisked. that following a busy Saturday when she had an altar-bound Britney Spears and her Apparently, so did a few women. “Miss? Miss! Can you please get off my train?” bridesmaid to tend to.) pleaded Kristin Davis, shrink-wrapped in a Prada black lace bustier dress, to one Glenn Close looked her best in a nude Oscar de la Renta, whom Jennifer Garner guest while trying to pose on the red carpet. also went with for an entirely different effect. The “Alias” star plucked her white, Drea de Matteo, who spent four hours each day transforming into her laser-cut lace ball gown, cinched at the waist with a black velvet ribbon, right off last week’s runway in New York. Teri Hatcher was also one of the few who went Continued on page 16 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004 13

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Cynthia Nixon in Chaiken at the Governor’s Ball.

Sharon Stone in Elsie Katz Couture and Kwiat jewels with Aisha Tyler in Giorgio Armani with Erica Courtney jewels at the Mischa Fox party at Spago. Barton in Maggie Norris with a Laura Munder ring. ’S BALL BY FILMMAGIC; TAMBLYN BY JEFF KRAVITZ/FILMMAGIC BY FILMMAGIC; TAMBLYN ’S BALL BY

Blair Underwood with Heather Locklear in Oscar de la Renta and Lorraine Schwartz jewels at the Governor’s Ball.

Meryl Streep in a Carolina Herrera skirt backstage at the Shrine Auditorium.

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WWDEMMY AWARDS sophisticated ladies

continued from page 12 “Sopranos” character, wanted to go a little lower-maintenance to the Emmys. Her black and gold-trimmed vintage gown came from The Paper Bag Princess in West Hollywood. “I wanted to wear something that kept me covered up so I didn’t have to worry about saggy boobs or shaving my legs,” she said. It was a good thing, since Patricia Heaton spent the better part of her evening eyeballing the toned physiques. “Heather Locklear, Sharon Stone, Jennifer Aniston. Wow! I mean, where do these women come from? I’m looking past the dresses right now. I want their bodies.” Heaton, draped in striking, rainbow-striped Elie Saab Couture, was just eager to leave behind the jeans-and-sweater sets for a night. “When you play a housewife on television, it’s nice to be able to splash out once a year. I just go for it.” As usual, several husbands waited patiently on the sidelines while the flashbulbs popped, including Brad Pitt, who apparently understood his place for the evening. “I’m just an accessory,” he grinned. While the typically marathon show ended after the scheduled three hours, Cheryl Hines, in an icy blue-beaded Norma Lenain, couldn’t wait to hit the after-party circuit as she entered the HBO fete at the Pacific Design Center in West Hollywood: “Where can I find a drink and a sandwich?” Over at Fox’s bash at Spago in Beverly Hills, Ron Howard, jubilant from the best comedy win for his show “Arrested Development,” couldn’t agree more: “I’ve been to so many award shows in my life that you’d think by now I would’ve learned to pack a snack.” Attendees had their pick of parties, with TV Guide, Entertainment Tonight, People, Showtime and “The West Wing” all hosting bashes around town. Not surprisingly, Stone and Diana Ross did the rounds, swooping in and out with only time for a spattering of air kisses. Lake Bell in Nicole Miller Throughout the evening, young nominee Amber Tamblyn couldn’t stop checking her and H. Stern jewels with cell phone. Along with Edie Falco, Tamblyn hailed the return of Randolph Duke to the Jennifer Garner in Marsha Thomason red carpet. The designer also served as a commentator for ABC. Oscar de la Renta inin DouglasDouglas HannantHannant andand “My friends have been text messaging me all night telling me, ‘Oh my God, [the with Neil Lane and H. Stern jewels at the media] loves your dress!’” she cried. “I was just happy it fit.” Chopard jewelry. TV Guide party.

Shannen Doherty in Diane von Glenn Close in Oscar de Kim Cattrall in Furstenberg lala RentaRenta andand HarryHarry Pamela Roland with Nicole Richie and Paris at the Fox Winstoninston jewelsjewels withwith herher Lorraine Schwartz Hilton at Us Weekly’s party at daughter, Annie Maude Kathryn Morris in and Kwiat jewels. party at Spider Club. Spago. Starke, at the HBO party. Carmen Marc Valvo.

STOCKING STUFFER: Nicole Richie didn’t need EASIER DOES IT: During his years as a regular on the red carpet, Randolph Duke seemed to an Emmy nomination to get all glammed up always leave a trail of drama in his wake. Either the tales were overblown, or age and EMMY SCOOPS — just a party invitation and a Roberto humility have calmed him down. The weeklong rush to create Amber Tamblyn’s berry gown Cavalli gown, paired with a Swarovski bag, Judith Ripka jewelry and her mom’s earrings, one from scratch didn’t involve “one moment of stress working with Randolph,” says stylist Tod of which she broke. But Richie said she had doubts about her pale pink sequin gown at first. Hallman, who’s transformed the “Joan of Arcadia” Emmy nom into a red-carpet rising star by “It’s very sassy, but on the hanger, I have to be honest with you, it was so skinny, and I was dressing her in Valentino, Reem Acra and Dior for previous award shows. “Randolph had like, ‘Are you joking?’ I thought it was a sock!” approached me about doing something, and since we really hadn’t found a dress we felt strongly about, we thought, ‘Why not?’” BUTT REALLY: At HBO’s Luxury Lounge at The Peninsula Saturday, finding her favorite jeans line made Debra Messing’s day. “I live in Citizens of Humanity,” she said. “They got TO DYE FOR: Talk about accommodating. To coordinate her Lana Marks alligator clutch with me my first compliment after having the baby. They were my motivation. They make my her gown, Patricia Heaton enthused it took Marks “about 10 tries and 15 dyes — and butt look amazing.” $20,000 — to get it right.” Eva is wearing Lash Fantasy Mascara in Blackest Black. For her complete look, visit revlon.com ©2004 Revlon Consumer Products Corporation. New Waterproof. Longer. Fuller. Flirtierlashes.Let yourfantasiesrunwild. Nourishing primerliftsandlengthens. Mascaradarkensandthickens. lash fantasy tes ihglances with Others, Some fantasies a re expressed with wordsre expressedwith TM mas cara 18 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004

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WWDEMMY AWARDS PORTIA DE ROSSI Be it Stella McCartney or Vivienne Westwood, Roberto Cavalli or Valentino, Portia de Rossi loves fashion as much as it loves her curvaceous tv’s next-gen top 10 figure. “She looks provocative but never trashy,” said Michael Kors, another de Rossi favorite. MOLLY SIMS The former “Ally McBeal” She’s worked her way into living star has kept her rank in rooms from “Old Navy” ad pitch Hollywood as one of the model to prime-time star as the kooky siblings on Fox’s quirky smart yet sexy daughter on the NBC dysfunctional-family comedy, hit “Las Vegas.” Yet Sims has been “Arrested Development.” In racking up the fashions points both its first year for nomination as the featured face of Cover Girl eligibility, the show was up and as the designer-clad, all- for seven Emmys and won American starlet on the red carpet. five, including one for best “Molly Sims has a gorgeous comedy series. face and beautiful smile,” “It is refreshing to see Valentino noted. such an elegant woman on In fact, the pearly Cheshire such a smart and clever smile; long, blonde locks, and program,” said Alberta Ferretti. “Portia has a swan-like beauty that reed-thin bikini body have drawn complements her style. She looks beautiful in soft and feminine fabrics comparisons with legendary girls- such as chiffon.” you-wished-live-next-door Farrah Valentino, who’s dressed the 31-year-old Aussie native for the Fawcett and Cheryl Tiegs. For Golden Globes, pointed to de Rossi’s “height, fair complexion and long friend Michael Kors, the 30-year- blonde hair — it’s impossible for her to look anything but stunning.” old Kentucky native reminds him Her fans would like to see her turn it up even more. “Because she of another American icon: “Molly is such a beautiful woman,” said Halston’s Bradley Bayou, “I would reminds me of a young Lauren love to see her bring more glamour onto the red carpet.” Hutton. She always blends the The award shows aside, de Rossi has a big-screen date next year, idea of something sporty and when Wes Craven’s werewolf-loose-in-L.A. thriller, “Cursed,” opens. something sexy and definitely has She plays opposite Christina Ricci and a parade of pop cult figures. fun with fashion.” Classic beauty and flaxen hair notwithstanding, Kors believes one Emanuel Ungaro’s asset stands above the rest: “Portia has the best accessory any woman Giambattista Valli agreed: “I love could ask for: a strong sense of self-confidence.” the confidence in her femininity. She dresses in Ungaro sometimes, and I like the way she dresses like a real woman.” ASHLEE SIMPSON She might be Jessica’s younger sister, but in recent months, Ashlee Simpson has managed to carve out her own identity — musically and stylistically. In fact, she proved her staying power on the nation’s pop charts this summer when her first album, the pop-rock “Autobiography,” hung in for a month — dropping a spot only when a compilation of Top 40 hits featuring older sis Jessica entered the fray. The transformation of Simpson, who turns 20 on Oct. 3, is reportedly more organic than studied; the real Ashlee emerged after three sugary years as a regular on the WB TV series “Seventh Heaven.” She was, after all, during that time a big fan of punk acts Green Day and Bad Religion. She went black from blonde. Her look pulls from punk and Eighties-flavored New Wave. And she didn’t back off from showing a bit of sass in the MTV reality show, “Ashlee,” chronicling the recording and launch of her album. “I think she has great style,” enthused Jennifer Nicholson, who dressed Simpson in a cream cashmere hand-loomed lace minidress for the recent MTV Video Music Awards in Miami. “The contrast with her dark hair — she is just adorable.” Bradley Bayou agreed: “I like how Ashlee uses fashion to play up her youthfulness and fun personality.” The Halston designer believes she can reach even higher in her style cues. “I would like to see Ashlee keep her young, sweet quality but add a little more

sophistication to her look.” OF WWD ARCHIVES SIMS AND DE ROSSI IN WHITE COURTESY WIREIMAGE; MOLLY DE ROSSI IN FUCHSIA AND SIMPSON PHOTOS BY

20 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004

WWDEMMY AWARDS ALEXIS BLEDEL This 23-year-old “Gilmore Girl” is surely fashion’s sweetheart. Her creamy skin and rosy cheeks are tv’s next-gen top 10 her best features, and her simple style highlights them, said Azria, who dressed the actress for the Teen Choice Awards. ELISHA CUTHBERT “I think her porcelain The petite and pouty Canadian actress is just complexion would look 21, but Elisha Cuthbert has been making the stunning in rich, bright colors. I red carpet rounds for four years, thanks to her would dress her in something hit Fox series, “24.” In 2005 she hits the film feminine and flowing, like one premiere circuit with the remake of “House of of my silk charmeuse gowns in Wax” and the drama “Dot.” aquamarine or plum,” he said. “Elisha clearly has a sense of how to wear a Most designers agreed they dress on the red carpet. I love her in bold color wouldn’t overpower her and chiffon,” said Valentino, picking up on two natural charm with severe of the actress’ favorite things. clothes. “Alexis is just so But she also never hesitates to try a new refreshing that we would want look, and she has the confidence to pull it off. “I to keep her looking that way, find Elisha to be a true style-setter, because she nothing too daring. Maybe even is not afraid to take chances,” said Collette something short,” suggested Dinnigan, who dressed her in an Eighties punk Carmen Marc Valvo. party dress for the 2002 Golden Globes. “I was But Ghost’s Tanya Sarne excited to see her choose such a playful look for sees other possibilities. “I an awards show. And she got rave reviews for it.” would like to see her do something very different…something over the top to Cuthbert embraces her youth and never show that she has great range.” Of course, her poise and slender 5-foot, 7-inch tries to dress beyond her years. Yet Elie Saab frame make anything possible, and so does a past career as a model. admitted he “would like to see her continue to With four films set to release in the next year — including the Jane Austin- experiment and become even more glamorous Bollywood remake “Bride and Prejudice” hitting theaters this fall — she’ll have as she gets older.” plenty of opportunities to hone her style.

AMBER TAMBLYN LAKE BELL She’s most After last season’s stint definitely on “The Practice,” Lake BY THE NUMBERS television’s new Bell is back on David E. 4: Number of Monique Lhuillier gowns — drama queen, Kelly’s courtroom most of any other designer on the red carpet. earning a Best sequel, “Boston Legal,” 1: Number of vintage Christian Dior (on Actress nod in the also on ABC and Jorja Fox and courtesy of The Paper Bag sophomore year of bowing Oct. 3. her show, “Joan of Lake — who’s Princess). Arcadia.” The 21- frequently likened to 12: Judith Leiber bags. year-old also has a young Frankie 7: Daniel Swarovski bags. gotten attention for Rayder — will reprise $30,000:Value of the vintage Kwiat her fashion choices, her role as the diamond brooch on Joely Richardson’s which veer toward seductively feisty evening bag. the feminine and attorney Sally Heep. colorful. It’s only the latest in a $185 : Retail value of the “Nip/Tuck” star’s “The first year at short yet packed custom-made lambskin bag by Surly Girl. the awards, she was career, which started 27: Number of karats in Sharon Stone’s the new, young on the London stage, Kwiat earrings. princess. This year we where she honed her $160,000: Value of Stone’s Kwiat rocks. [looked] at it range of accents, and 27: Number of karats in Loraine Bracco’s differently,” said her has included the TV Chopard “Pushkin” earrings. stylist, Tod Hallman. drama “War Stories.” “It’s more young-adult sophisticated beauty. That Oscar de la For “Boston Legal,” however, she’s easily slipping into Dolce & $855,000:Value of that pair. Renta party dress silhouette is still amazing, but we are also Gabbana, Donna Karan and Chanel. 5: Number of Emmy nods Sarah Jessica looking at a sleeker side. We want to show how she’s evolved.” “Lake has an exotic beauty and a warm personality, and it is very Parker received during six years of “Sex and Max Azria suggested, “Amber would look beautiful in a much reflected on the outside — she is a great one,” said Elie Saab, the City.” classic silhouette. I would design something simple but who dressed her in couture for this year’s Golden Globes, as well as 1:Number of Emmy trophies. luxurious for her, in an eye-catching color like jade or indigo.” for other events. “I would like to see her in a full-length glamourous 4: Number of Golden Globe trophies Carmen Marc Valvo concurred: “Amber can really glam gown…which will show both her inner and outer beauty.” it up for the red carpet,” he said, adding that the actress While the 25-year-old Gotham native incorporates new 15,000: Number of cocktail napkins at the also has a flair for choosing fun, casual looks, as well. Nony designer pieces into her off-set wardrobe, she’s also an Governor’s Ball. Tochterman, who designs one of Tamblyn’s favorite lines, avowed vintage addict. Paper Bag Princess, Wasteland and 22: Number of bartenders there. Petro Zillia, said, “I love Amber’s sense of style and Decades are among her regular haunts in Los Angeles. 10,000: Yards of fabric used to swathe sensibility for timing. She knows when to dress down for “She can make a simple Stephen Burrows dress look like a tables at the ball. Saturday morning coffee and when to dress up for the red million dollars, because she has the body of a supermodel,” said 1,200: Pounds of steak au poivre served carpet. She’s one beauty who’s not afraid to wear color and Decades owner Cameron Silver, who’s also sold her plenty of Ossie let her personal style shine!” Clark and Forties-era looks. “She’s a dream to put clothes on.” during dinner. BLEDEL, BELL, CUTHBERT IN PANTS AND TAMBLYN IN RED BY WIREIMAGE; ALL OTHERS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO WIREIMAGE; ALL OTHERS BY IN RED BY AND TAMBLYN IN PANTS BLEDEL, BELL, CUTHBERT Say this three times, out loud: “Lately little Lucy likes lacy lingerie.”

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3 Old Highway 28, Whitehouse Station, NJ 08889-3608 888.440.3367 V: 908.534.4041 F: 908.534.5023 www.fdnp.com © 2004 FDN&P Advertising, a division of The Nulman Group 22 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM In Transit Importers Ponder Port Backups

Importers said they expect an early-2005 surge in shipments to West Coast ports, such as Long Beach, Calif., to lead to delays. PHOTO BY SUSAN GOLDMAN/BLOOMBERG NEWS /LANDOV SUSAN GOLDMAN/BLOOMBERG PHOTO BY

By Scott Malone Kong’s, will close for the week before the Feb. 9 Chinese than Chinese ports or in Hong Kong. That’s because the New Year holiday, meaning that the period from Jan. 1 to Asian ports in the past have taken flexible approaches to NEW YORK — Apparel and transportation executives Feb. 2 will likely be a time of frenzied activity at the ports. surges in demand, scheduling people to work extra are preparing for a different kind of New Year’s Eve January typically is not a heavy volume time for other hours or raising productivity expectations, he said. hangover — the end of the worldwide quota system on industries, though, so there should be space available on January is typically not a peak month for the facility, Jan. 1 will bring a surge in shipments from Asia to the ships making the run from Asia to the U.S., he said. said a spokeswoman for the Port of Los Angeles. U.S. and create the potential for backups at ports on both Robert Sappio, senior vice president of Transpacific “We will just be working with the forecast figures sides of the Pacific Ocean. trade for American President Lines, said, “January 2005 from the steamship companies and expect we’ll be able Importers have been waiting a decade for the final is expected to be busier than previous years.” However, to handle things,” the spokeswoman said. quotas on apparel and textiles to be dropped by the 147 overall, the shipping business is experiencing fewer sea- The port handled 616,000 cargo containers in January nations of the World Trade Organization. The move sonal ups and downs in demand over the course of a year. and 627,000 last month. August is typically a heavy vol- should lower the cost of buying foreign-made apparel “The off-peak season is only marginally less busy than ume time. because it will increase competition and end the quota the rest of the year,” Sappio said. Moore of Maersk Sealand said importers should let charges that are a major cost factor in countries such as Peter McGrath, president of purchasing at Plano, their carriers know in advance their plans for January to China, which supplies 16.6 percent of the U.S.’s import- Tex.-based J.C. Penney Co., said he anticipated seeing avoid backups. ed apparel. hiccups in the supply chain early in 2005. “If we know about it early enough, in time to plan, To avoid quota costs, importers said many firms might “We are expecting a bottleneck to occur,” he said. “A we’ll ensure that our customers or our partners get what- delay shipping early spring goods, that would normally lot of people are trying to save the price of quota.” ever we need to do for them to satisfy their in-distribu- move by mid-December, until early January. Still, he said it was likely to be a brief annoyance. tion center dates,” he said. “Sourcing and logistics have “There will be pretty heavy demand early in the “That’s going to be a very short-term problem, a three- to work closely on this.” year,” said Brian Moore, director of apparel sales with week problem,” he said. Importers said they believed the problem would be ocean carrier Maersk Sealand. “The pressure from Rick Darling, the New York-based president of Li & short-lived. quota elimination is going to be pretty heavy.” Fung USA, said it was more likely that the delays would “I don’t want it to sound traumatic because I don’t Moore said most Chinese ports, as well as Hong occur at the unloading point — ports in the U.S. — rather think it is,” said Li & Fung’s Darling.

A 10 percent increase in transport ties, such as Nigeria, it takes an average costs “may reduce trade volumes by more of 18 days. In Ecuador, the average time than 20 percent,” the study concluded. is 15 days, while in Kenya, it’s 14 days. Study: Shipping Costs Key Transport costs include freight charges, Each day spent in shipping is estimat- insurance, holding costs for goods in tran- ed to add about 0.5 percent to the cost of By John Zarocostas the world economy and, ultimately, of its sit and other related expenses. an item, the study said. Allowing free export competitiveness, the study said. An efficient logistic chain “is an competition in the provision of port serv- GENEVA — One of the biggest obstacles The quality of transport infrastructure important determinant of a country’s ices — rather than granting monopolies apparel makers face in seeking to hone affects trade, and poor facilities increase competitiveness, and helps reduce costs — “may reduce prices on average by 9 their competitive positions as quotas end total costs, adversely affecting the time of of transport, transit time and costs of percent and the breakup of cooperative on Jan. 1 may be in getting their goods to delivery and eroding the potential production,” the report said. working agreements and price-fixing market, according to a World Trade income of local producers. In rich countries alone, total logistics agreements could lower prices by 25 per- Organization study. “Governments cannot hope to reap costs — packaging, storage, transport, cent,” the WTO said. The survey concluded that freight the real benefits of open trade if they fail administration and management — are The report said that in the lucrative costs have greater influence on trade to secure macroeconomic stability, sup- on average around 20 percent of total Transpacific ocean liner trade, the aver- patterns than tariffs, which will be one of portive infrastructure, properly func- production costs, the WTO estimated. age sea freight rate to haul from Asia to the few remaining tools at governments’ tioning domestic markets and sound More efficient ports with better infra- the U.S. is more than double than the disposal to manage the textile and institutions,” said Supachai structure and strong services for cargo rate to ship from the U.S. to Asia, and apparel trade after quotas are lifted. Panitchpakdi, WTO director general. handling and storage, as well as for ves- added that while westbound shipments “Differences across countries in trans- The report found that freight costs in sel fueling and repair, represent a com- have experienced the greatest decline port costs, including relative costs between poor, developing countries average 70 per- petitive advantage for exporters. since 2000, sea freight rates remain modes of transport, are a source of cent more than in developed countries. In The report noted that countries with highest for cargoes loaded in Asia. absolute comparative advantage and affect Africa, they are particularly high, about efficient customs clearance, such as In 2002, shipping a standard-size 20- the volume and composition of trade,” the twice the world average. In many coun- Lithuania and Singapore, can clear foot container from Asia to the U.S. cost WTO’s World Trade Report 2004 said. tries in Latin America, the Caribbean and goods on average within one and two an average of $1,502, the study said. Shipping charges are crucial in deter- Africa, an importer pays more to transport days, respectively. In countries with Taking the same container from the U.S. mining a country’s ability to participate in the goods ordered than for tariffs. cumbersome customs clearance facili- back across the Pacific ran $768. Your bottom line requires superior global transportation

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Whatever the garment, size, color or location, consumer satisfaction and your bottom line depend on superior global transportation and integrated logistics. As an established global, multi-trade service provider, with expertise in fashion apparel and accessories, we have a comprehensive network in place to meet your global sourcing and destination needs. From purchase order to product delivery, make P&O Nedlloyd’s fully integrated supply chain services and North American store delivery program your competitive advantage. 24 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Te xtile & Trade Report Moda In Focuses on Bold Fall Patterns By Phyllis Macchioni MILAN — The Moda In show kicked off the European textile fair Two striped cotton season this month with a blaze of color and patterns for fall 2005 and fabrics from Canclini. winter 2006. The three-day fair, which wrapped up Sept. 10, featured fantasy tweeds, bold patterns, bouclés and herringbones in traditional fall colors for outerwear, while tweed and basket-weave fabrics led fashion looks for suits, jackets and dresses. Exhibitors mixed retro hues with fresh colors and used unusual color combinations. As festive alternatives to black, they offered bronze and pale peach, as well as champagne and dusty rose in velveteen jacquard. Outerwear and daywear fabrics featured opulent, sensuous colors ranging from rich chocolate brown and burgundy to gold and turquoise. Canclini, a Como, Italy-based company, showed winter-weight cotton, as well as cotton and wool blends in a range of plaids and checks. Many of the soft cotton twills shown by Canclini had distressed finishes and were designed for sportswear and casualwear lines. “I was inspired by the variety of colors and textures found on the The Bigger Picture Plaids and circles on leaves of the many chestnut trees that grow on the mountains above cotton fabrics lead Nero su Como,” said Massimo Martone, the firm’s textile designer. MILAN — Exhibitors at Moda In focused on their fashion Nero’s fashion looks. Deep fall colors also inspired the textured patterns, soft paisleys and offerings, which are key for small and midsized Italian bright-colored chenilles at Miroglio. companies trying to withstand intense competition from “We produce four lines of prints, plus raw fabrics and single- manufacturers in the developing world. color fabrics in addition to 16 lines of clothing, which include the That rivalry only will intensify next year, after the 147 Elena Miro brand and two lines for Krizia,” said product manager nations of the World Trade Organization drop their quotas Roberto Chiarle. on textiles and apparel. A report recently released by In addition to patterns and textured bouclés in wool and wool ISTAT, the Italian National Bureau of Statistics, stated blends, Miroglio showed brightly colored fine-wale cotton corduroy that Third World competition has severely affected the with some stretch properties. Italian textile industry. The Serikos collection focused on texture, achieved by pleating and In 2003, the Italians lost 7.3 percent of their textile sewing the fabric to create honeycombed and rippled patterns. export market, which dropped to 4.3 million euros, or “Most of our collection is still being finalized,” said $4.9 million at last year’s average exchange rate. The representative Gino Parzianello. “We hope to have the complete line report said export sales dropped an additional 6.2 ready for the upcoming Paris textile fair,” he added, referring to percent through the first quarter of 2004. — P.M. Première Vision, which opens today. At Nordtessile, general manager Eugenio Tettamanti said, “Our colors for fall-winter 2005-2006 are intense. “Just looking at this beautiful fabric puts you in a party mood,” he added, unfolding a bolt of deep violet watermarked taffeta. In addition, the Como-based company offered wool in a classic basket weave, plus striped chenille for daywear and colorful patterns for holiday and eveningwear. Sexy and sophisticated fabrics were the theme at Nero su Nero, where fashion looks included velvet jacquards, some in deep jewel tones and others in pale shades of champagne, blush peach and pale aquamarine. The soft, iridescent tones were reminiscent of the Thirties and added a retro touch to the line. Gruppo Dondi exhibited rows of brightly colored jersey. Miroglio’s pink basket weave in wool and rayon,

“Our solid-colored jersey usually does well because it is so and a colorful plaid in wool and polyester. MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTOS BY versatile,” said Tommaso Ricci, sales representative. “It looks like our patterned jersey is going to do well, too.” Invista in China Expansion NEW YORK — Invista, the $8.4 billion synthetic fiber powerhouse, said Monday it plans to open a plant in China’s southern Guangdong province that will initially produce 12,000 tons of spandex annually. The investment, which the Wilmington, Del.-based company valued at $100 million, is Invista’s first such move since being acquired by Koch Industries in April. The factory, located in the city of Foshan, is projected to employ 100 peo- ple and open in mid-2006. Invista said the plant’s capacity could be doubled to 24,000 tons per year after a year. let inspiration flow “I believe this to be a milestone, in that new ownership with new eyes has actually approved the first big capital project since we’ve come from DuPont,” timeless innovation. said Bill Ghitis, president of global apparel for the former DuPont unit. Invista planned for the fibers produced at the plant to be made into timely service. garments for local consumption, he said. “We’re investing in China for the Chinese textile industry and the the world over. Chinese consumer,” Ghitis said. “We’re not going to be making stuff in China to export.” Invista operates 32 factories on four continents, producing spandex, poly- ester and nylon. It operates at two sites in China: a plant outside Shanghai and a joint venture in the city of Lianyungang, in Jiangsu province. Ghitis called the proposed plant “the first of several projects that we will be approving globally.” He said the firm will “also be looking at acquisitions.” www.symphonyfabrics.com Earlier this year, Invista rolled out a consumer marketing campaign in 229 West 36th Street New York, NY 10018 China for its Lycra brand. In that market, the brand name will be pro- p 212.244.6700 | f 212.736.0123 nounced “Laika,” he said. Its name in Chinese characters means “magical experience.” Symphony West With the 147 nations of the World Trade Organization set to drop their 860 South Los Angeles Street quotas on textiles and apparel on Jan. 1, China is expected to expand its Suite 702 position as the U.S.’s leading source of textiles and apparel. For the year Los Angeles, CA 90014 ended in July, Chinese suppliers shipped $13.08 billion worth of those p 213.627.7381 | f 213.228.1943 goods, a 22.2 percent increase from the previous year, giving it a 16.6 per- cent market share, according to Commerce Department data. — Scott Malone WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004 25 WWW.WWD.COM Dior Bullish as Profits Soar 37 Percent continued from page one Top-selling accessories this on track to reach 1 billion euros, or $1.22 billion at fall include Rasta shoes… current exchange, in volume by 2007 — and with and Gambler handbags. profitability in excess of 20 percent. (Dior’s beauty business has already surpassed the 1 billion euro threshold.) “This is exactly in line with the plan. The momen- tum of the brand is really strong worldwide,” Toledano said in an interview Monday at Dior’s gray and white headquarters here. “For the full year, we confirm a significant improvement in the profitability.” Christian Dior S.A., the holding company that includes LVMH and Christian Dior Couture, did not quantify the Dior profits; it provides that figure only annually. In 2003, operating profits zoomed 21 percent to 40.1 million euros, or $48.9 million, as reported. Dollar figures for the first-half results are at average exchange. Still, Monday’s results demonstrate accelerating prof- itability, which Toledano attributed variously to rising sales per square foot, improved deliveries and logistics, high creativity and tight cost controls in adminis- tration and production. Sales in the six months ended June 30 increased Sidney Toledano PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY 16 percent to 274 million euros, or $334.3 million, a 20 percent rise at constant exchange rates, as reported. “In July and August, the trend was also very good, in Asia and the U.S., and Japan was very good as well,” A New Fendi Flap for Karl Lagerfeld? Toledano said, noting that sales in the U.S. are up 43 PARIS — Expect an added element of Fendi, declined all comment. percent year-to-date in dollars. intrigue at the Fendi show next week However, sources in Europe (Sept. 29) in Milan, as tensions suggested that the published remarks flared Monday between the Rome ruffled a few feathers at the luxury The momentum of the brand fashion house and its ready-to-wear giant, which has remained quiet designer, Karl Lagerfeld. regarding its strategy for the Italian is“ really strong worldwide. In an article published in the fashion, fur and accessories house. ” Italian daily Corriere Della Sera, LVMH recently described Fendi as — Sidney Toledano, Dior Lagerfeld cites a revolving door of being in an investment phase. managers at Fendi and shortcomings LVMH and Prada Group jointly in its design organization. He also is acquired 51 percent of Fendi in quoted about the difficulties of 1999, with LVMH buying Prada’s On the women’s side, Toledano cited “excellent” per- running a fashion business in Rome stake in November 2001. It also has formance of designs by John Galliano, in particular his and the general challenge of been buying out shares held by Fendi Rasta line of bags and shoes, edged in red, gold and green. mounting rejuvenation miracles in family members. A bowling-shaped bag with dice hardware called the fashion today. Lagerfeld, who has designed for Gambler has also been taking off since deliveries began Reached in Paris Monday night, Fendi for more than 35 years, has last month. “On Saturday, we were out of stock on the Lagerfeld said he granted the often been vocal about inner turmoil best styles,” Toledano said. “We have a waiting list.” newspaper an interview only about at the company, including during the In addition, Toledano highlighted rapid develop- his new collaboration with Swedish time the founding family owned it. ment of Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane, with all cate- Dior cited fashion giant Hennes & Maurtiz. He According to market sources, gories of products — from suits to accessories — selling strong sales of declined comment on the Fendi Lagerfeld has several seasons left on briskly at retail this fall. In fact, Dior quietly phased men’s wear article. his current contract with Fendi, but out its more traditional men’s wear range this season in designed by A spokesman for LVMH Moët negotiations to renew it may have favor of Slimane’s lean-and-clean aesthetic. Hedi Slimane. Hennessy Louis Vuitton, parent of already commenced. Toledano cited strong consumer reaction to a range of high-end “colognes” Slimane developed for sale in select Dior boutiques, and hinted a wider rollout may be forthcoming. Looking ahead to the critical second half, Toledano said store openings and product ini- tiatives will drive sales. Dior has already opened more than a dozen locations this year — including Prague, Houston, Taipei and Waikiki — to bring EVERYTHING YOU NEED. AND SOME THINGS YOU DON’T. its current store count to 172. In the coming months, units are All our rooms come with all the comforts of home. Even for the follically challenged. slated to bow in Dubai, Macau, In fact, you’ll find everything you’d expect at fancier New York hotels, like fitness Hangzhou in China and Tokyo’s centers, complimentary breakfast, and free Wi-Fi service. About the only thing you Ginza district. won’t find are the fancy New York prices. Check into any of our five Manhattan On the product front, initia- locations by calling 800-567-7720 or visiting applecorehotels.com tives for the second half include a Slimane-designed men’s watch and a special range of jackets by Galliano backed by an advertising campaign featur- ing Riley Keough, the daughter of Lisa Marie Presley and thus Elvis’ granddaughter. Operating profits for the holding company rose 14 per- cent to 1.01 billion euros, or $1.23 billion, while net profits from current operations jumped 36 percent to 217 mil- lion euros, or $264.7 million. The results echo LVMH’s num- bers published last week. Besting market expectations, the French luxury group said operating income rose 14 per- cent to 996 million euros, or $1.22 billion, as reported. 26 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004

FASHION INDUSTRY SPECIALISTS WHOLESALE AND RETAIL FABRIC MANAGER Production Assistant Womens wear mfr. seeks fabric coord. Leading children’s wear importer seeks ASSISTANT DESIGNER w/ 5 yrs exp. in import. Must have an experienced production assistant. -RESUMES- contacts w/ European and Asian mills. Responsibilities include daily e-mail Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates A leading Home Furnishings Company has an immediate Comp lit. a must. communication with oversea factories CLOSEOUTS WANTED GILBERT CAREER RESUMES Fax resume to Lynn : 212 382-0237 and all phases of approval process. Ideal Silks, fancies, upholsteries, unique (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa opening for an Assistant Designer position in its New York of- candidates must have 2 to 3 years exp; fabrics, remnants OK. Please call: fashionresumes.com fice. Minimum of three years design experience in home fur- General knowledge and understanding of gar- 212-243-4913 fashioncareercenter.com ment construction, knit and woven fab- nishings or related industry is desired. Candidate must have Merchandise Manager rics; must be detail oriented with good FASHION RESUMES SINCE 1970 a strong sense of color knowledge and familiarity with fabric Reporting directly to the CEO, you will communication skill, computer skill Lifetime Updating/Phone Interviews merchandise the entire bebe line, and and able to work under pressure. Also Rush Service Available and patterns. Must understand design specifications and impact every product that hits our must be a team player. PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. stores. These top level initiatives Please fax resume & salary requirement (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 construction details. This person must work well under pres- require the creative focus to not only to: 212-564-5201 Attn. CB Velour + Fleece www.resumesforfashion.com sure, maintain a good attitude and have an eagerness to identify and predict trends, but to Rib + Jersey Lycra extend and enhance their presence PRODUCTION Drake Fabrics learn. Good communication skills, organization and atten- through others. That’s why we seek Bilingual, Chinese/English. Import 718-389-8902 tion to detail are needed to be successful. Travel will be re- the collaborative spirit to partner with sourcing desirable. Fax (212) 391-1033 design, production, planning and Or Email: [email protected] quired. Candidates should send resume with cover letter in- allocation, visual, and marketing. Your background must also spotlight the cluding recent salary history to great leadership to motivate a talented PRODUCTION [email protected] or fax to 704.522.4704 staff of DMMs and buyers; 10+ years COORDINATOR in retail buying and merchandising; Est’d lifestyle mnftr. seeks exp’d prod OFF PRICE BRANDED APPAREL with "Assistant Designer" in the subject line and strong product management expe- coord. Must be organized and detail 50-70% off Original Wholesale. Women’s, rience. Please e-mail or fax your oriented w/excellent communication Men’s & Kids. Warehouse appts avail. resume, indicating General Merchandise and follow up skills. No travel Contact Marsha @ 516-239-8111 Manager in the subject line of your cor- required. Competitive salary and EXECUTIVE Designer - Children’s respondence, to: [email protected], benefits. Please fax resume to BEN ELIAS APPAREL JOBS (415) 657-4445. 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)SpecTechs Children’s sportswear company needs 212-643-0684 or E-mail resume to ASSISTANT 3)Designers-assoc-assists boy-girl-YG men-Jr full time exp’d designer. Must be tech- [email protected] Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) nical, able to spec, grade and prepare technical packages & communicate to the CEO with overseas factories. Strong trend, Production Coordinator CEO of a top fashion company brand & fashion knowledge. Photoshop, Graphic Designer Major Sptswear Importer seeks experi- A/R ASST. MGR. Illustrator. No freelance. Norwood, Graphic Designer for marketing and seeking dedicated, detail oreinted BRobinson Optical, a well established enced team player to be part of fast paced MA. E-mail: [email protected]. promotion materials. Must have a min. prod. dept. Candidate must be organized, individual with at least 2 years eyewear firm seeks A/R associate to 2yrs. exp. in print prod’n. MAC skills handle collection work, daily bank great w/ details, have outstanding commu- working with the President of the incl. Photoshop, Quark and Illustrator. nication and computer skills. The ability deposits, posting of payments, posting Please email resume w/ cover letter to: company. Must be computer liter- of monthly credits, and EOM report- to multitask a must. Some domestic prod. [email protected] or exp a plus.Employee friendly with full ate, team player, detail oriented, ing. Competitive salary incl. excellent Fax: (212) 382-1916 benefits package. Designer house is looking to hire a collabo- company benefits! and able to handle multi task proj- Please fax resume to: 212-683-0437 or rator - Draper/Patternmaker to work direct- Please fax your resume to: ects. Excellent benefits. Excellent E-mail to: [email protected] ly w/ designer. Must have minimum 7 GRAPHIC DESIGNER JM 212-944-2867 opportunity for committed individ- years of experience. Well established accessories co seeks a Fax resume w/ salary requirements to: graphic artist w/ 3-5 yrs exp. Full bene- PRODUCTION ual. Salary commensurate with 212.840.3630 attn: Michelle fits package. Excellent oppty. Mac Coordinators-Better Pvt Label Mfr $40-50K BOOKKEEPER platform a must. Fax res 212-302-2753 experience. Wanted: Full-charge bookkeeper for EDI Coordinator-Kids 7-16 Girls $50K growing womens apparel company. DESIGNER Production Coord-Kids Biling Chinese $50K Fax your resume and IMPORT ASSISTANT Production Assistant-Private Label $35K salary requirements to Knowledge of peachtree a must. Some Leading Manufacturer of missy career office administration as well. Min. 5 woven and knits is seeking a designer. Established Womens and Childrens [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 J. Taylor 212-869-3639 yrs exp. Pls. fax resume w/salary history Requires a great eye for print, color and apparel mfr seeks an experienced and requirements to: 212-334-6738 trend. Will be proactive in fabric team player for fast paced import PRODUCTION - Showroom / Office / Retail development/print/embroideriesand fol- department. Duties include writing We find you space-best deal-no fee low up with overseas offices. Strong P.O.s for Caribbean and Overseas Buyer $65K+ package suppliers and coordinating DOMESTIC TECH Sublet 525 7th/ready VP GENERAL communication, organization skills a Established Women’s Sportswear Co. Garment Center Real Estate JR. sportswear collection better exp. 20+ stores must, as well as ability to flat sketch and following up all elements of trim Jennifer *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 and spec sample requirements. Candi- seeks person with 3-5 yrs exp. Experi- Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 MERCHANDISE MANAGER with understanding of garment enced in purchasing piece goods & [email protected] construction and fit. Should be computer date must be organized and have good 50M Apparel Mfr. seeks an exp’d communication and computer skills. trims. Understands pattern making, Showrooms & Lofts literate. Large company w/good benefits. marking, grading and cutting tkts. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Retail Men’s Divisional or General For interview fax 212-921-7713 Fax your resume with salary require- BUYER ments to Mark Rubin: 212-444-6019 Know all facets of Domestic Produc- Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Merchandise Mgr for key account tion. Able to multi-task, speak/write ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 management. Must be passionate Women’s Wear Boss! English, computer literate. Fast paced about the Retail Market and have Boyds Philadelphia, the premier upscale DESIGNER ORDER ENTRY environment/benefits. men’s retailer seeks an individual to NEW ERA CAP, a global headwear Co. Established Sportswear Co. seeks expe- Fax resume: 212-768-7773 or e-mail: long standing relationships and spearhead their 7500 sq. ft. expansion located in Western NY, is looking for an rienced garment center, Order Entry [email protected] contacts. Relocation not required. into the better women’s business. Buy- experienced Designer with a strong person. Be a self starter, able to multi- $200K to 250K + Strong ing, selling, managing, marketing. Must portfolio of original work to develop task, organized with excellent Computer PRODUCT MANAGER have experience in upscale women’s innovative new headwear products from and communication skills. Fast paced Incentives. Confidentiality Assured. environment/benefits. We seek a Product Manager to work apparel and must live in Philadelphia concept through prototype development. with the design team and sales group [email protected] area. Unique opportunity to pioneer Send resumes & salary requirements to: Fax: 212-768-7773 or e-mail: [email protected] from development stage through ship- Fax 732-280-6190 Attn: Larissa this business. Excellent compensation! [email protected] ping. Knowledge of retailer reporting Fax resume: 215-564-2876 or E-mail: EOE and quality systems (i.e., Partners On [email protected] "Passion for Fashion" Line to pull up reports, factory registration) required. Garment and DESIGNER DESIGNERS - Men’s Production Director (Jrs) ...... 100-125K fabric testing procedure as well as casual CAD DESIGNER Contemporary/Urban. Exp req’d. Good Production...... 40-65K woven bottoms experience, knowledge HANDBAGS/SLG’S NYC Apparel company seeking CAD color sense, exp w/ CAD and prints. Sourcing Asst ...... 30-40K of bottom washes, finishes and fabric Business Venture Well-established accessory co. Designer with at least 1- year experi- Freelance ok. Fax resume: 213-748-3625. Planners / Analysts ...... 40-85K constructions a must. ence. Must know Illustrator and Designers (many areas)...... 40-150K Leading women’s apparel manu- seeks designer w/ 3-5 years exp. Sales Asst’s...... 30-35K Minimum 3-5 years experience. Good facturer seeks highly motivated Photoshop. Please email resume to to design & merchandise a licensed [email protected] Auto CAD Designer ...... 50-65K communication skills and analytical individuals interested in start up brand. Creativity, technical specs, DESIGNER ability to interpret customers in stock or pre-existing opportunities. "ON THE MARKS" requirements (to read ladders and be computer skills & overseas travel SPORTSWEAR able to monitor whse stock). Individuals must possess strong Many other opportunities available. exp. a must. For immediate CAREERS IN APPAREL Major public apparel co. seeks candi- sales and merchandising experi- Call 212-986-7329 or Fax 212-986-7708 Please fax or email resume to: considertation, e-mail detailed In Production - Techn. Design + Design date to create moderate contemporary 646-366-0288 or [email protected] ence. We provide financing, back See Listings @ www.ApparelStaffing.com separates with 5+ years exp. Must office, shipping and production cover letter & resume to: have a strong background in woven PATTERNMAKER support. [email protected] Design Assist/ Production Assist bottoms, skirts, & jackets. The ability Receptionist to identify emerging trends & silhou- Mfr of Jr/Missy/Large Size Sportswear - Children’s- ettes. Must possess great color, print, seeks exp person for all phases of Fax particulars in confidence to: pattern prod’n. Call Tony 212-239-6380. Sleepwear Company seeks reception- Mr. Jay 212-869-3639 &pattern sense w/the understanding ist experienced with multiple phone PATTERNMAKER of fabrics. Must be organized, detail- lines. Please send resume and salary Seeking Design Asst. for sourcing, de- oriented, able to meet deadlines, & be PATTERNMAKER requirements to 212-279-2590 Well established, high-end sign idea, must have knowledge of ateam player. Must have computer Savvy, Professional Patternmaker w/ a women’s fashion designer Photoshop and Illustrator. Also seek- skills. Position in BOSTON Hdqtrs background in children’s or women’s (whose label can be found in Saks, ing Production Asst. Must have con- with excellent salary & benefits. apparel needed for prod’n samples for Sales Assistant temporary experience. Fax resume: Fax resumes to HR: 617-332-3260 overseas. Sewing a plus! Call 212.371.9767 Established, fast paced ladies apparel co Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf’s) si 212-997-4186 seeks a detail oriented, organized, indiv seeking highly exp’d Production to work closely with VP of Sales. Follow Patternmaker. Must know factory DESIGNERS PDS PATTERNMAKERS up customer sample needs and deliver- DESIGN ASST. •VP Dsgn Better Vert Retailer $250K ies. Coordinate with production on Sales procedures. 5-10 yrs. exp. required. •DESIGNER Sportswear-Lectra $100K Patterns/Samples/Beading Junior cut & sew/sweater manufacturer •SR Designer Sweater Contemp $120K •JACKETS & SUITS-Gerber $80-85K Line Sheets, Coord Nat’l Sales Mtg. Plus Fax resume: 212-268-0547 seeking highly motivated self-starter •Designer Suits Vert Retailer $120K •BRIDAL EVE DRESS-Gerber $85-90K much more. Must have excellent commu- Duplicates Cut & Sew to join our team. Responsibilities include •Designer Childrens Girls & Boys $120K nication and computer skills. If you are Full Service - Small Production •TEACHER of PDS to PatMkrs $80K assisting with: sketching, specing, •Designer Dress Pvt Label Mfr $95K [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 described as fast paced and a multi task Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 fittings, boards. Knowledge of CAD is •Designer Asst Childrens $45K type person, please apply for this excit- FREELANCE DESIGNER aplus. Recent grad o.k. Please E-mail •Designer Assists All Categories $50K ing oppty. Excellent benefits. resumes to: [email protected] [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Fax to 212-391-5268 Trendy, Talented & Exp in PHILADELPHIA JOBS or email to [email protected] PATTERNS, SAMPLES, India required for Hi-Volume •Patternmaker Better Dresses $70-78K PRODUCTIONS Private Label Casual Sports- •Technical Designer $70-80K All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 SALES ASSISTANT Call Sherry 212-719-0622. wear – Able to travel – Est’d lifestyle manftr seeks exp’d sales Fax Resume to Sammy @ assistant. Must be organized and 212-944-2452 detail oriented w/ excellent follow up Prod Admin Assistant skills. Competitive salary and bene- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Major sptswr importer seeks a motivated fits. Computer skills required. Please person for fast paced production fax resume to 212-643-0684 E-mail PRODUCTIONS ADMIN ASST/SHOWROOM department. Must be computer literate, resume to [email protected] Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine Import Sweater Co seeks exp’d., organized, highly organized and detail oriented with fast work. 212-869-2699. computer literate, detail oriented person strong communication skills. Garment able to multi task. Exp in garment cen- exp. and CTL knowledge a plus. Full SALES ter a must. Fax resume: 212-764-1825. company benefits. Room to grow! Est’d lifestyle manftr seeks exp’d sales Please fax resume to: people w/ retail contacts. Must be ag- ADMIN/Operations Asst - Assist CFO/ JM @ 212-944-2867 gressive to open new accounts while be computer lit/check payroll/handle expanding current business. Unlimit- benefits & people/be sharp. $37-43K ed growth potential. Competitive Les Richards Agcy-Call (212) 221-0870 salary and benefits. Please fax resume Production Assistant to212-643-0684 or E-mail resume to Eveningwear Co seeks Production Asst [email protected] Admin Since 1967 with 2-4 years experience to handle Willing to pay top $$$! W-I-N-S-T-O-N data entry, shipping, phones and vari- Women’s contemporary company ous duties in a production dept. Must seeks to share booth for the following: APPAREL STAFFING have understanding of garment Samplemakers Fashion Coterie (9/28/04 - 9/30/04) and/or DESIGN*SALES*MERCH industry, pattern layout and clothing For Couture Evening Co. Experience Designer & Agents (9/27/04 - 9/29/04) ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION construction. Please fax only if you a must. Excellent salary. Please call: Please email: [email protected] (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 meet the above criteria: 212-221-0509 212-944-7144 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004 27 Obituary WWW.WWD.COM J. Gene Hochfelder, Ex-Beldoch CEO Mervyn’s, Neal Part Ways By David Moin Mervyn’s profits and market By Lisa Lockwood Knitmakers private label division, and Andrew share have been shrinking amid joined in 1978 and ran Beldoch’s manufacturing. NEW YORK — Mervyn’s has is- tougher competition from other NEW YORK — J. Gene Hochfelder, former chair- Andrew and Thomas left the business in 1999, and sued a search for a new leader, discounters, department stores man and chief executive officer of Beldoch James left in 2002. following the departure of its and mass merchants, including Industries, which under his leadership became In the early Seventies, Gene Hochfelder president, Diane Neal. Kohl’s, Wal-Mart and Federated one of the largest domestic sweater manufactur- brought Pierre Cardin into the fold. “He saw the Two officials at the company Department Stores. ers and held the Pierre Cardin license for future of designer apparel in America, and in 1973 said Neal’s last day was Friday, Mervyn’s is based in Hayward, women’s apparel, died here Sunday. got the license for Pierre Cardin women’s appar- but they had no information on Calif., and operates 257 stores in Hochfelder, 82, had been ill for several years el,” said Thomas Hochfelder. “[Eventually] under whether she was forced out or 13 states, mostly in the West and and died in his Manhattan apartment from com- Gene’s leadership, the corporation grew to over resigned. South. Mervyn’s sales for 2003 plications from two strokes he suffered last year $70 million at wholesale.” A source outside the company were $3.6 billion. The deal to the and in 1995, said Thomas Hochfelder, one of his “He was a very dear friend,” said Hal Upbin, said Herbert Mines Associates investment group includes five sons. chairman and ceo of Kellwood Co. “I met him 10 has been retained to search for a Mervyn’s distribution centers. Known for his business acumen and dynamic years ago when we were looking at his company to chief executive officer. Hal Reiter, Sun Capital has been active personality, Hochfelder built Beldoch into a $70 buy it. We didn’t reach a deal, but he was such a ceo of Herbert Mines, could not in the retail industry, with such million knitwear powerhouse in the Nineties. charming and smart guy, we remained friends. be reached late Monday after- prior acquisitions as Sam Goody, Beldoch, a proponent of domestic manufacturing, “He was a good, but tough businessman,” noon to confirm the report. SunCoast, Media Play, Anchor owned several sweater factories in West added Upbin. “He was a bit of a mentor. We’d “They’re looking for a ceo to Blue and Wickes Furniture. Hempstead, N.Y., and produced knitwear and meet, have dinner and talk about the business.” try to make the retail business Cerberus is considered a vul- sportswear under such labels as Alberoy, Beldoch “He was a kind, gracious and dynamic leader,” work, but the investors have a ture fund, which has been making Popper, Beldoch Petites and Pierre Cardin, as added Laurence C. Leeds Jr., chairman of safety valve in the real estate,” investments in distressed compa- well as Knitmakers private label. Hochfelder sold Buckingham Capital Management. “He built a said a retail source. “That’s nies. Last year the firm bought the business to Donnkenny in 1995 and retired business during a period where so many of his where the underlying value is.” Fila. Cerberus also bought or fi- from the company. peers were failing, and he survived. He was Last July, Target Corp. an- nanced troubled companies such Born in Cedarhurst, N.Y., in 1922, Hochfelder smart, had a great sense of humor and he main- nounced that it would sell Mer- as specialty retailer G&G, textile graduated from the Wharton School at the tained the ability to laugh at himself.” vyn’s retail operation to a group supplier Guilford Mills and inti- University of Pennsylvania in 1943. He served as a Hochfelder was active in the fight against im- of investors led by Sun Capital mate apparel retailer Frederick’s captain in the U.S. Marines, where he spearhead- ports and served as an officer in the National Partners Inc. and Cerberus Capi- of Hollywood. ed landings in Guadalcanal and Iwo Jima, and Knitwear and Sportswear Association. He was tal Management LP for $1.2 bil- The investors could recoup was awarded the Silver Star, Presidential Citation also chairman and an honoree of several United lion in cash. The deal was closed their investment in Mervyn’s by and Bronze Star. After the war ended, he started Jewish Appeal, Anti-Defamation League and earlier this month. Target also selling off certain locations, Bogene Manufacturing, a housewares and gar- Israel Bond drives. An avid golfer, Hochfelder sold Mervyn’s credit card receiv- while still maintaining a core re- ment bags business, which he sold to Scovill was president of Glen Head Country Club and ables of $475 million to GE tail operation in a strategy simi- Manufacturing in 1969. In 1971, he joined his fa- was a Scout Master and Little League coach Consumer Finance . lar to Kmart’s. Edward Lampert, ther-in-law Albert Beldoch’s business, Beldoch while raising his five sons on Long Island. His The total price tag is about 10 ceo of ESL Investments, bailed Industries, as president. The sweater company, first wife, Patricia Beldoch Hochfelder, died 22 times Mervyn’s pretax profits of Kmart out of bankruptcy and be- which Albert Beldoch began in the Thirties, was years ago, and he is survived by his second wife, $160 million. Target also named came the majority shareholder originally known as Beldoch Popper. Carol Ostrow, whom he married in 1984. In addi- Lubert-Adler/Klaff and Partners and the chairman of the company Three of Hochfelder’s sons were involved in tion to Thomas, James and Andrew, he is also sur- LP as part of the “investment con- and has been selling off locations the Beldoch business: James joined in the Sixties vived by two other sons, John and Peter, 13 grand- sortium” buying the nameplate. while attempting to shore up the and founded Alberoy, a hot juniors resource in the children and four great-grandchildren. Services Since the deal was closed ear- retail stores with improved mer- Sixties and Seventies; Thomas joined in 1971, at will be held today at Riverside Memorial Chapel lier this month, more manage- chandise, less clutter and easier- the same time as his father, and headed up the here at noon. ment changes are likely to occur. to-shop layouts in the stores.

SOURCING MGR $110-120K Technical Designers Sales Assistant Moderate Market, Knits/Wovens, Jeans, Fast growing better/contemp. women’s Sales Trainee Wtd. Washing Knldge. Trim Sourcing, Quota Technical Designers with 3-5 years exp. Allen B. Men/Allen B. Women’s shirts co. seeks an energetic individual High energy apparel co. seeks bright, Duties, FOB/LDP’s, Far East, Africa. in Ms, Jrs., RTW. Responsibilities in- for sales position in NY showroom. energetic person w/ great communica- Must have Factory base in Rolodex. clude developing production specs, fit- Must have excellent comm. skills, be tion skills and an interest in sales. Will [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 ting & communication with our overseas by Allen Schwartz hard working and detail oriented. maintain showroom, good organizational offices. Qualified candidates must have Please fax your resume to 212-354-6052 and multi-tasking skills a must. Strong strong patternmaking and computer or E-mail: [email protected] client follow-up and strong computer Spec Tech skills. Please send resume with salary SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE skills a must. Must have knowledge of Leading NYC childrenswear manufacturer requirements to Alison M. at: Excel and digital imaging software. of newborn/infants seeks Spec Tech with Fax: (212) 947-7654 Contemporary / Designer resource seeking (2) upbeat and self Please fax resume to: Sales Director Attention Tamar @ (212) 768-2835 minimum of 1 year experience in knits & Technical Design/Production motivated individual. Candidate must have strong sales and Top Contemporary multi line showroom is woven garment construction and apparel Major Jr Denim Import/Mfg seeks an seeking seasoned sales professional with import experience. Candidate will in- merchandising skills with a working knowledge of fashion. experienced individual to be responsible Must have established account relationships with contemporary/ proven track record. Strong Specialty SHOWROOM SALES terface with designers & overseas man- for initial to production spec packages for Store following a must! Relationships with NY Junior Bottoms mfr. seeks an exp’d ufacturers. Responsible to write specs development, analyze fit samples and designer specialty stores, department stores and international Nordstrom’s, Saks, Bloomingdale’s and the salesperson with Dept. & Specialty and prepare spec packages for overseas communicate with over seas offices/follow accounts. Minimum 3 years experience required. like are neccessary. Candidate must have stores to bring in new business. production. Must be accurate with first fit up. Must be computer literate. strong organizational skills, and be pre- Please fax resume to (212) 921-7817 through production. Exp. required in spec Fax resume & salary requirements Please email resume to: [email protected] pared to lead a sales team. Ability to start pkgs, patternmaking, garment con- attn: RS at 212-398-2287 or Fax: (212) 840-0092 for Coterie a plus. Salary + commission struction, measurements & fitting. Ex- STORES DIRECTOR structure commensurate with experience. For prestigious retailer of fine fra- cel, Adobe Illustrator. Tech /Spech Tech $50-$70K. Fax resume in confidence to: 212-997-7778 E-mail resume w/salary requirements Kids. Speak Chinese. Strong Illustator grance, leather and gifts. Established to [email protected] Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 British retailer looking for strategic, or fax to 732-636-4764 [email protected] Sales Executive experienced manager to lead expan- ACCOUNT EXECS Key Account Sales Bridge designer knitwear co. seeks sion of US retail stores. WISCONSIN JOBS Strong Account Execs for children/ Better evening dresses exp’d bridge sales pro with strong Requirements: Proven leader with a SWEATERS Pattmaker & Tech Designer. Temp/Hire teen accessories. Current contacts store contacts. Must generate new track record of success achieving sales *TD-Bilingual Chinese $70K Dept. & Chain Store contacts. [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 w/majors, mass drug & sports chains. Call: 212-730-1070 and maintain existing accounts. Min. and profit objectives. 10+ years experi- •TD-Better Bridge $70K $$$$. Call Laurie: 212-947-3399 or 5 years exp. Team player req’d. ence in retail store management. •Production-Better Pvt Label $60K email: [email protected] Fax resume to (212) 695-9483 or email General computer proficiency. B.A. [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS [email protected]. Extensive travel. Salary commensu- rate with experience. NYC based. TD-1st Devel Tech Jackts/Bttoms $65K TD-MANAGER Better Bridge $85-100K Send resumes to: TD-BETTER WOVENS Jrs $75-85K Account Executive SALES [email protected] TD-Kids Wovens/Knits Tops/Btms$70-85K TIBI, a women’s young designer line, Nouveau Fabrics Inc Group of Southeast Asia apparel factories, TD-KNITWEAR $80K is looking for a high energy fabulous Amajor design house specializing in with a sales office in NY, seeks a highly TD-JEANSWEAR $70K sales executive with department and heat transfer prints, novelty items incl motivated salesperson to sell stocks and TD-SWIMWEAR/Foundation $70K specialty store experience. Candidate wet prints & solid basic items is seek- private label. Min. 5 yrs. exp. Must have TD-LONG ISLAND CITY $40-50K must be familiar with the young designer ing a fresh, innovative & aggressive excellent contacts with Dept./Specialty/ TD-KIDS-Better Market $35-$50K market and be able to manage and salesperson to cover the NY market. Discount stores. Ideal candidate should SPEC COORD/TECHS Better $37-57K maintain accounts on all levels. Please fax resume 212-382-1341 be able to generate sales and meet 7th Avenue Please fax resume to : (212) 966.2961 PAUL&SHARK TD’s TEMPS All products $65K established sales targets. Candidate Immediate part time Sales position for [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Designer Sportswear must be a team player, detail oriented aqualified sales person. &possess excellent written and verbal Please fax 212-452-9861 Attn: Sal Cretella Collection skills. Travel required. Base+ Commission Seeks experienced /Benefits. Please e-mail resume to: Tech Designer-Sweaters GICLEE Private Label [email protected] PAUL&SHARK Import Sweater Co seeks exp’d indiv. salespeople to grow its Garment Sales for fits, grading & extensive overseas expanding collections. Sales Executive OPENING IN comm. Must have 3-5 yrs import sweater Seeking dynamic, experienced sales Int’l textile co. seeks highly exp’d, ag- exp. Brooklyn location. Fax 212.764.1825 Candidates should have pro for import women’s sportswear gressive seller for garment prod’n in SO. FLORIDA 12/03 min. of 5 years exp. Fax company. Must be aggressive, motivated Far East. Must have strong est’d con- Sales - Showroom Model Has openings for a Sales Manager and and have strong department store & tacts w/ apparel mfrs. Salary/comm Evening Dress Company seeks Complete Sales Staff, Salary + Com- TECHNICAL DESIGNER $60K resume in confidence to: specialty store connections. Catalogue commensurate with experience. Min. specialty store salesperson and mission, Great Benefits Package. Stretch Knit, Great Company! 509-757-7814 contacts a plus. Great opportunity. 10 yrs. exp. Pls. fax confidential res: showroom modeling size 8. Please fax resume to 212-452-9861 Fashion Network: 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 Please fax resume to: 212-734-5091 (212) 575-7891 Fax resume to 212-391-8753 Attn: Sal Cretella AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ® Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Cotton Incorporated, 2004. Dress byBradleyBayouforHalston.Fabriccotton. Cotton.The fabricofourlives. unforgettable ® www.cottoninc.com