Big Night NEW YORK — Greeting the New Year Is an International Affair — Sometimes Social, Often Private

The Inside: Top Parties of the Year Pg. 12 RETAIL SHARES RECOVER/2 A NEW $200M WORLD/13 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • December 28, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear

Big Night NEW YORK — Greeting the new year is an international affair — sometimes social, often private. WWD asked eight designers to render a vision of how and where they saw their customers celebrating the occasion. For more takes on the evening, see pages 6 and 7. Coffee, Cakes, Clothes: Luxury Retailers Use Food to Lure Shoppers Carmen Marc Valvo endorses New York. “New By Miles Socha Year’s Eve is the best party night of the year, PARIS — Is the way to a luxury and what better way to customer’s wallet through her stomach? celebrate than in a sexy, dazzling dress, sipping Perhaps, which is why a growing champagne with friends number of luxury flagships and in the greatest city in the world?” he asks. Here, multibrand retailers now offer food Valvo’s embroidered, sequined silk chiffon products and services as a value- trapeze dress. added feature, revenue stream and an attraction in and of themselves. This winter alone, Gucci has christened a cafe in its new Ginza building in Tokyo, Lane Crawford in Hong Kong has opened a “chocolate room” at its flagship, Dolce & Gabbana is serving up martinis at its new Shanghai flagship, and Hermès is shepherding shoppers to See Luring, Page 8 2 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2006 WWD.COM Fashion for New York’s Next First Lady WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear By Marc Karimzadeh NEW YORK — New York State FASHION Designers give their take on New Year’s Eve, offering a glamorous picture first lady-to-be Silda Spitzer went straight to the heart of Manhattan’s 6 ranging from stark to dazzling, from downright quirky to quite grand. fashion industry for her inaugural wardrobe. GENERAL WWD has learned that Spitzer A growing number of luxury stores now offer food products and ser- will wear pieces made exclusively 1 vices as a value-added feature, revenue stream and an attraction. for her by ready-to-wear designer Neil Bieff when her husband, Eliot, As the Dow Jones Industrial Average hit a record high, crossing the is inaugurated as governor at a cer- 2 12,500 mark, most retail stocks rebounded on Wednesday. emony in Albany on Monday. Dai Fujiwara, new creative director of Issey Miyake, plans to be faithful Bieff met Spitzer last summer at 3 to the house’s commitment to innovation, while developing novelty. a trunk show he held at the now- defunct Greenwich, Conn., store WorldStreet, set to open in 2008 in Virginia, aims to take on globalization Razook’s. The two have kept in 13 by offering retail space for small fi rms from around the world. touch since, and Bieff has designed three daytime outfi ts for her for the inaugural. EYE “She is a wonderful person to Talking with Emily Watson, who injects even a Victorian spinster with dress because she is tall and lean 4 typical gumption as Millie in “Miss Potter,” which opens Friday. and in great shape,” Bieff told WWD on Wednesday. “She has a terrifi c DENIM sense of who she is. She is an at- Unlike most premium denim players, Mel Matsui doesn’t clamor after torney and has a full plate, and the 10 celebrity endorsements or media hype for his Christopher Blue line. clothes are just a part of it. She is Three Neil Bieff not a clothes-horse type of person.” designs for Bieff, whose atelier is located THE BEAT Silda Spitzer. in the Garment District, is perhaps Shopping online is now as routine as walking into a store, so it’s only best known for his made-to-order 11 natural the virtual world has begun to mirror the real one. eveningwear and suits, and most of his business is through trunk shows nationwide; he works with spe- Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 cialty stores like Mary Jane Denzer in White Plains, N.Y., and John de To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Medeiros in Palm Beach, Fla. Over [email protected], using the individual’s name. the years, he has dressed the likes of Sharon Stone, Meg Ryan and WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- Kate Burton. Bieff is cur- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. rently working on a rtw VOLUME 192, NO. 134. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one diffusion line. additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, April, and September by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. For Spitzer to wear Silda PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: Monday, the design- Spitzer S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; er created a coral Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David

red double wool AGOSTINI/GETTY EVAN IMAGES PHOTO BY Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice Presi- crepe princess- dent_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine shape coat with a very confident Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. dramatic black silk in who she is. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. velvet collar, to be She knows when 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable paired with a sleek something is good Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, black or red matching or bad for her ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR red skirt and a black when she puts it on. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four sweater, as well as a black With her, the clothes weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. waffl e-weave collarless coat either work or they don’t. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other with a semi-obi effect that harkens I never have to sell her. She has U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. back to vintage Balenciaga shapes, an idea, I come up with something First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and a navy double crepe suit with and that’s it.” and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions a navy satin collar. There is something else that sets and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make “We are not certain what she will the incoming fi rst lady apart from our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would wear when,” said Bieff, who plans the rest. interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise to be at the inauguration in Albany “It’s amusing having her body- us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. with his wife and two sons. “She guard around,” Bieff said. “But he is WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- is delightful to work with. She is just a perfect gentleman anyway.” SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Retail Shares Rise With Surging Dow In Brief By Vicki M. Young The reports coming in are that a CIBC World Markets, wrote in huge amount of gift cards were her research note Tuesday, “J. ● HATS OFF: Concept One Accessories, a New York fi rm, has NEW YORK — As the Dow Jones sold and are expected to be re- Crew stores have been among acquired Drew Pearson Marketing, an Addison, Tex., hat com- Industrial Average hit a record deemed beginning this week the most crowded stores this hol- pany, for $8 million in cash. Concept One bought Pearson from high, most retail stocks rebound- through January. That has built iday season and we see them as Mainland Headwear Holdings Ltd., a publicly held headwear ed on Wednesday. some optimism into today’s trad- one of the winners. The Garden factory in Hong Kong. Under a separate agreement, Mainland The Dow Jones index crossed ing activity.” State Plaza store currently fea- is building a 125,000-square-foot plant, set to open next year, for the 12,500 mark, rising 0.83 per- Among the gainers were a few tures resort-early spring, which 1,500 workers for the production of Concept One and Pearson cent to close at 12,510.57, hitting stocks that shed some ground looks terrifi c.” women’s headwear. Pearson produces hats and caps under the an intraday high of 12,519.22. The in Tuesday trading on the Big Cache was cited by Harry names Sean Jean and NASCAR, as well as college and NBA S&P Retail Index rose by nearly Board: Abercrombie & Fitch, Ikenson, analyst at Soleil Group, team names. This is the fourth acquisition by Concept One 1 percent to close at 501.34. closing at $70.14, up 1.53 percent; and Neely Tamminga, analyst this year. In March, the company bought Block Headwear, The Shares of retail stocks in gen- Aéropostale, $30.93, up 2.69 per- at Piper Jaffray, as a specialty Helen Welsh Group and SlickCase. eral fared well, and many rose cent, and Federated Department chain that was right on track from Tuesday’s sell-off as some Stores, $38.33, up 1.51 percent. during the holiday season with investors hoped shoppers would Two other winners were J. the right merchandise and a head to malls to redeem their Crew Group, up 1.85 percent fashion focus that met consum- gift cards. to close at $38.61, and Cache ers’ needs. WWD. COM James Rice, analyst at Inc., up 3.61 percent to close Gap lost ground on both days, Susquehanna Financial Group, at $25.86. Both gained ground ending Wednesday’s trading ses- Stay Connected said, “Yesterday [Tuesday] was Tuesday on a day when most re- sion down 0.05 percent to close If you travel for business, you need a subscription to wwd.com. defi nitely a reaction to the early tail stocks were in a slump after at $19.86. And shares of teen re- Access the current issue of Women’s Wear Daily anytime, anywhere. reports that Christmas sales this news of a lackluster holiday pe- tailer Wet Seal Inc., which trad- season didn’t go well. Today’s re- riod at retail. ed up Tuesday, fell 0.75 percent For more information, visit wwd.com. bound refl ects a bit of optimism. Roxanne Meyer, analyst at on Wednesday to close at $6.61. WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2006 3 WWD.COM Raf Simons Makes His Mark at Jil Sander

By Alessandra Ilari designer Jil Sander sold the company to innovating materials combined with fl uid- Prada Group in 1999. ity and soft tailoring.” MILAN — Raf Simons’ strong spring show Months later, she left the company due The minimal yet luxe basics were for Jil Sander proved that the calm after to clashes with Prada chief executive offi - especially appealing to Cedric Charbit, the storm has settled in. cer Patrizio Bertelli and was replaced by general merchandising manager at “Raf has certainly made his mark as the Milan Vukmirovic, who did sporty disco Printemps in Paris. man of the house,” said Marigay McKee, fl ash until Sander returned in May 2003, “He redesigned the basics and gave fashion and beauty director at Harrods in only to split again 18 months later. them a must-have quality, cool new pro- London. After her second departure, the brand’s portions and made them sophisticated Simons, an infl uential men’s wear de- creative reins were handed over to its in a timeless way,” Charbit said. “That signer, faced the daunting task of revital- long-standing design team. In February said, for the French market we need a izing a fashion house that lacked luster in 2006, Prada sold Jil Sander to London pri- bit more edge.” sales and editorial buzz after founder and vate equity fund Change Capital Partners. The pre-spring line, already on the Simons joined the fashion house in May selling fl oors, has registered double-digit 2005 as creative director and presented his growth, he noted. The color story in the col- fi rst collection for fall 2006. For this spring, lections is told through white, black, navy the designer peeled off winter’s heaviness blue, mango orange and canary yellow. with a collection aimed at sensibly chic Harrods’ McKee said, “Raf is settling women of disparate ages. In September, in well with a strong showroom offer.’’ sales for the fi scal year rose 11.5 percent She said that while staying true to the to 145 million euros, or $186.5 million. brand’s history, the collection offered a Retailers, who lauded the collection very fresh view. overall, cited the slim pantsuits, crisp “The trousers suit was a sophisticated, Peter Pan collar blouses and a pale pink modern classic, while the tonal sequin sequined cocktail dress as top choices. dress was amazing and something unex- “You know that a collection has some- pected from this house,’’ she said. thing to say when you sit up during the That particular dress — an iridescent is often very complex, deconstructed or show as we did at Jil Sander,” said Linda number with a bow sculpted in the back conceptual.” Fargo, fashion director at Bergdorf Good- that displayed Simons’ ability to release According to Gilhart, the evolution man in New York. “Raf built upon his pur- his minimal restraint — was dubbed by from fall to spring denoted how Simons ist foundations with joyful bursts of color Julie Gilhart, Barneys New York’s senior is becoming more secure and bold. that were shockingly beautiful when ap- vice president and fashion director, as “It takes a lot of courage to show plied to a perfect collared shirt or architec- “one of the best pieces of the season.’’ bright colors in the vernacular of Jil turally innovative, softly defl ated dress.” “Spring was one big step further into Sander, and he did it successfully,’’ she The liaison with the past was very the development of a new statement at Jil said, adding that even fall business has much in the Jil Sander vein, as it was in Sander,” said Gilhart. “Simons embraced been on the upward track. Simons’ inspiration. the tailoring heritage at Jil Sander, but Today, counting in-store shops, Jil “For my second Jil Sander collection, oddly enough it has taken a man to intro- Sander has 33 signature locations world- I wanted to show new directions and per- duce the softness of a dress again.’’ wide, plus about 330 other points of sale. Here and right: Looks spectives,” said Simons. “As my fi rst collec- For Fargo, who underscored the im- A store in Frankfurt will open at the end of from Jil Sander’s tion was a tribute to Jil Sander, this time portance of mixed assortment in a store, February. Meanwhile, Simons is develop- spring show. I wanted more energy, which I found in Jil Sander “gives our customers a very ing a new store concept that will bow for pure vibrant colors, geometric basics and appealing counterpoint to clothing which fall 2007. Fujiwara Sharpens Edge for Future Miyake Looks Fashion Scoops By Robert Murphy During the interview, Fujiwara unfurled bolts of STOCKING NEWS: WWD’s eBay auction of one-of-a-kind designer A-POC fabric with patterns of trousers ready to be holiday stockings raised a total of $3,785.02 to benefi t Citymeals- PARIS — Dai Fujiwara, the new creative director cut and assembled. Then he got down on his hands on-Wheels, which provides weekend and holiday meals to New York of Issey Miyake, likes to explain his intentions for and knees as he explained how the process worked. City’s homebound elderly. the Japanese brand in metaphors. For example, he believes A-POC is no longer Marc Jacobs’ quilted leather stocking with chain hardware For instance, he refers to the house’s namesake a futuristic concept. “A-POC was for the digital fetched the highest bid at $883.67, closely followed by Tuleh’s founder as the “sun of inspiration,” and suggests generation,” he explained. “But now the digital oversize cotton and linen stocking with metal bow, which went customers need to be reassured with a “hand- generation is not a special world. It’s part of the for $860, and Vera Wang’s silk duchesse satin stocking, sold at shake” to nudge them gently into the future. general world.” $822.09. Alexander McQueen’s embroidered wool tartan design As Fujiwara, 39, sat down for his fi rst interview To that end, Fujiwara said he had coined the went for $686.76, Rodarte’s wool and silk chiffon number here since taking over from Naoki “A-POC Inside” name. In general with georgette and organza rosettes was bought for $330 and Takizawa in October, the longtime Dai terms, the concept entails using A- Heatherette’s cotton knit stocking attracted a bid of $202.50. Miyake protégé explained how Fujiwara POC technology in invisible ways To benefi t the charity, WWD asked six designers to create one-of- he plans to remain faithful to the in the other collections. a-kind stockings replete with extravagant fi llings, from two orchestra house’s commitments to innova- “There’s so much fashion al- seats to the Broadway hit “Grey Gardens” to McQueen sunglasses tion and modernity while develop- ready,” said Fujiwara of his decision and Joëlle Ciocco face creams. ing novelty. to mix the lines. “It breeds confu- “My mission is to be a strong sion. When a customer buys Pleats PEOPLE POWER: Some cars have options for 22-inch rims and bridge [from the brand’s past],” Please or A-POC, it’s all Miyake.” PlayStations, but the Volkswagen EOS has accessorizing ones. In explained Fujiwara in English. For his first collection, this September, WWD reported Volkswagen of America collaborated with “Customers buy Miyake because January’s men’s wear, Fujiwara knitwear fi rm Lutz & Patmos on two knit origami capes to coordinate they like it. I don’t need to change said he would forgo a runway pre- with the new convertible, which is geared to women. Now VW has everything. I want to speak to the sentation in Paris for a collection tapped footwear and accessories fi rm Sigerson Morrison to create next generation of customers.” long on denim pieces that he says a capsule collection of Sixties-inspired driving moccasins, gloves, Among the pillars of Fujiwara’s is inspired by mailmen and truck key fobs and a clip-on pouch for the car. “We’re excited to design nascent plans is a desire to meld drivers. our smart accessories to go,” said designer Miranda Morrison. Miyake’s diverse Pleats Please, Fete His fi rst show will mix men’s The accessories will retail from about $150 to $200 in Sigerson and main collections with A-POC and women’s together during the Morrison stores and at eosboutique.com starting this spring. — or A Piece of Cloth — the experi- March ready-to-wear shows in mental line Miyake founded in 1998. Paris in what Fujiwara said he BESPOKEN FOR: Manhattan accessories Fujiwara’s desire to grow A-POC, which makes hoped would consolidate the brand’s image into designer Devi Kroell has customer clothes out of a single piece of fabric, is under- a strong whole. service on the brain. Kroell, who won standable. He was instrumental in helping Miyake Though Fujiwara insisted he’s not interested Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Award for develop the collection’s advanced computer-gen- in radical changes to the brand’s aesthetic, he did Accessory Design at this year’s CFDA erated mills, and he has been its co-creative di- suggest plenty of differences between himself and Awards, was constantly being asked rector with Miyake, who continues to have a hand Takizawa, who plans to launch his own line under by her best customers — the likes of in the line, since its inception. the Miyake umbrella. whom own up to 25 of the designer’s To explain his intentions for the company, the “He’s like a big brother,” he said. “We are in bags, which typically demand four- soft-spoken Fujiwara commissioned a video of the same family, but I’m of a little bit different fi gure price tags — for customized A bag from Devi Kroell’s digitally rendered stick fi gures constructed out generation.” bags. So for spring, Kroell is launching bespoke collection. of the letters of each brands’ name. Created by Then he laughed: “I can be pretty funky.” her fi rst bespoke collection, featuring graphic designers Masahiko Sato and Euphrates, Earlier this year, Nobuyuki Ota, president of made-to-order bags in exotic skins such as alligator and ostrich with the video shows A-POC intermingling through Issey Miyake Inc., said Miyake’s main collection the option of gold hardware set with precious stones. “The diehard fans them all like strands of DNA. and its Fete line generated $26 million in turn- have all asked me why I wasn’t doing alligator,” said Kroell. “[With the “This will be part of my communication tool over in Japan, while the Pleats Please business bespoke collection] the sky is the limit. We can even put diamonds with the entire company,” explained Fujiwara of added another $61 million. He did not give fi gures on it if she likes.” Bags from Kroell’s bespoke collection take two to the video. for the rest of the world. three months to produce and can skyrocket to $30,000 and beyond. SANDER PHOTOS BY MAURICIO MIRANDA ; MIYAKE PHOTO BY: DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY: ; MIYAKE MIRANDA MAURICIO SANDER PHOTOS BY 4 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2006 WWD.COM FULL WATTAGE EMILY WATSON HASN’T MADE HER NAME PLAYING TRADITIONAL ROLES, SO it should come as no surprise she injects even a Victorian spinster with typical gumption. “It was very nice to be playing a really cracking, opinionated woman,” Watson says of her character Millie in “Miss Potter,” which opens Friday. “She reminds me a bit of me when I was 14, you know — slightly belligerent and outspoken.” Not that she sought out the role as the best friend of Beatrix Potter, played by

Rising Renée Zellweger, in the “Peter Rabbit” author’s biopic, directed by Chris Noonan of “Babe” fame. At the time, Watson’s daughter, Juliet, was only three months old. “I said, ‘Absolutely no way. I’m not making a movie. Tell them to go away,’” remembers Watson by telephone from her home in Bermondsey in southeast London. “But they kept coming back. I turned it down two or three times, but then, because it was Chris Noonan, whom I am a great fan of, I said, ‘OK.’” “I dreamed of Emily as Millie even before I had secured Renée as Beatrix,” admits Noonan of the pivotal character, who not only encourages the children’s author to seek artistic and personal independence but also aids her secret engagement to her publisher and Millie’s brother, Norman Warne (played by Ewan McGregor). “I knew that I needed a feisty, confi dent Millie who wouldn’t turn to clichés, which would be boring. Emily has always surprised me because she rarely chooses Venus the safe route to a character,” says Noonan, adding, “With the movie set in formal and musty Victorian times, I needed Millie to be the antidote to that restraint, and Jodie Whittaker Emily seemed to me to be the perfect candidate.” Packing her new family off to the Isle of Man for the shoot, Watson says, “was fantastically galvanizing, because if you’ve got children, there is a stage where it’s NEW YORK — Forget the screen time, the red carpet and the reviews. For young British impossible to get dressed before four in the afternoon, and I was thinking, ‘I’m actress Jodie Whittaker, simply being given a shot at making her film debut in “Venus” was never going to leave the house again.’” satisfaction enough, given her co-star would be Peter O’Toole. “If I didn’t get the job, just to have that experience of reading with him in an audition, I’d Emily Watson probably put that on my CV: ‘Had an audition with Peter O’Toole,’” quips Whittaker, whose offbeat looks are a cross between Kirsten Dunst and Mischa Barton. In “Venus,” out now, Whittaker plays Jessie, a damaged, crass teenager from northern England who comes to London to live with her great-uncle Ian (Leslie Phillips), an aging actor. The two mix about as well as oil and water, but Ian’s best, thespian friend, Maurice (Peter O’Toole), takes a romantic liking to Jessie, nicknames her Venus and makes it his mission to educate and entertain her, often in exchange for the odd erotic favor. Maurice and Jessie form a bond that oscillates between Lolita-esque teasings and grandfatherly affection. “On the basic level of it, she’s a little shit and he’s a dirty old man. But I think the fi lm acknowledges that, but then challenges everyone to kind of see that they’re just two people,” says Whittaker. “The thing with Jessie is she’s…had certain bad relationships with men and both me and [screenwriter] Hanif Kureishi agreed that her dad wasn’t around in her upbringing. It’s just that thing of having never been respected, so it builds up such a guard that Maurice is the fi rst person she ever comes across who takes the time to knock it down and to get past it and to keep pursuing.” Indeed, with Maurice’s help, Jessie gets an emotional makeover of sorts, though certainly not one that is manifested by any aesthetic change: She spends much of the fi lm with trashy roots, sporting hideous pink tracksuits and skirts with street-walker hemlines. Even Whittaker, a northern girl and casual dresser herself, was appalled by her character’s style. “On the last day, the costume designer, Natalie, was like, ‘Do you wanna keep any of them?’ I was like, ‘No!’” laughs Whittaker, 24. “She’s like, ‘Please, I don’t know what to do with them.’ I wouldn’t dare wear those skirts.” Now living in London, Whittaker grew up in Huddersfi eld, England, with acting ambitions and little interest in academics. After high school she took a vocational performance arts course, went backpacking and then entered drama school, from which she graduated in June 2005. “Venus” was only her third acting job. In the new year, she’ll star in a three-week run of Neil LaBute’s play “Bash” in London, and her next fi lm role will be in “Good,” playing a Nazi opposite Viggo Mortensen. It is a part that requires considerably more research than that of Jessie. “I bought about 20 books on the Nazi Party and I think the bookshop where I live just thinks I’m really weird,” says Whittaker. “I keep going there and saying, ‘Hi, can I order, um, the book about the Third Reich please?’ And they’re like, ‘Are you the girl that ordered ‘Mein Kampf?’ ” — Vanessa Lawrence

Think Nan Kempner was a clotheshorse? Try learning a few things from the valise of Jennifer EYE SCOOP Creel, who clearly will never be at a loss for an ensemble, even in Cancún, Not that she got that dressed up to play Millie. “It was very deliberate,” explains Mexico, where she is spending this week with her family. Here, Creel outlines her Watson of her unkempt appearance onscreen. “She doesn’t give a toss. But also, basic necessities for a holiday at the beach: I’d just had a baby. The fi rst thing I said to Chris was, ‘OK, I’ve made a very strong “The fi rst items that I will pack will be my Michael Kors and Heidi Klein character decision — I’m going to play it plump.’” bikinis. To go with my bikinis, I will be packing my cover-ups from Lolita Jaca, Watson claims her acting motivation for the fi lm was “very much, ‘OK, are we along with a white cotton eyelet Chloé sleeveless top and a large straw bag done now?’” But Noonan vows the star of “Breaking the Waves” and “Punch-Drunk that was bought on a recent trip to London. I am also really looking forward Love” is a director’s dream. “Emily is superintelligent and truly collaborative,” he to wearing my favorite Earnest Sewn white jeans and my Valentino white terry attests. “She’s never selfi sh or showy, and she also supports the other actors in short-shorts. realizing their characters.” “For evening, I will be bringing my Michael Kors metallic halter-top Speaking about the acting process, Watson says, “It’s different every time dress, a Tracy Feith ‘fun’ printed dress and my Carolina Herrera white cotton you do it. Renée clearly went through a process of total immersion” — Zellweger embroidered dress. My purple, printed-silk Pucci dress and two other Pucci reportedly remained in character for the entire shoot — “and was living, eating, tops in light blue and green will be added into the mix. breathing Beatrix Potter for a long period of time, and it was coming out of every “For everyday wear, I will be bringing Splendid tanks and some Ralph pore of her. I had other fi sh to fry.” Lauren cableknits for chilly nights. Footwear will be my Havaiana fl ip-fl ops, Such pragmatism is one reason Watson, who will be 40 in January, isn’t drawn to the Christian Louboutin wedges, Jack Rogers in gold and silver and Hogan sparkling lights of Tinseltown. “It’s such an effort, all that glamorous stuff,” she says. sneakers. And facing another whirlwind awards season (she’s been nominated for two Best “For accessories, I will be packing my Fiona Kotur wicker ‘Creel’ clutch Actress Oscars in the past), Watson is just as outspoken as Millie might have been. that is this great gold basket-weave minaudière, plus my Kara Ross rock “It’s a huge compliment to your work, but it’s also a big machine and everyone can crystal cross and my Carlos Souza coin pendent. For sun protection, my see it,” she says. “That’s how the fi lm world operates, isn’t it? That’s how you break Valentino aviators, a big straw hat from Roberta Freymann and Anthelios your movie out — get it awards and get it noticed.” sunscreen 50 for my children and I. Beyond next year’s “The Waterhorse” (another fi lm for which she packed up “The only cosmetics that I will be packing will be my Darphin crème; my own Juliet and husband Jack Waters, this time for a four-month adventure in New personal scent, Frédéric Malle Lys Méditerranée; my Pat Wexler SPF 30 skin Zealand), she doesn’t have anything on her agenda — but that’s no cause for worry. brightening cream, and my Estée Lauder Pure Color Crystal Gloss. “It’s nice to be having some real proper downtime and going off to play group every “For entertainment, I will be bringing my black video iPod, my biography of day,” says Watson. “We go to musical movement, and we go to baby gym. That’s my Marie Antoinette and my black Apple MacBook. Of course, I will not forget to life at the moment, and I’m loving it.” pack my BlackBerry and my new favorite item, a purple toy watch.” — Elisa Lipsky-Karasz WATSON PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO; WHITTAKER BY PASHA ANTONOV; CREEL BY THOMAS IANNACCONE CREEL BY ANTONOV; PASHA BY CENTENO; WHITTAKER TALAYA PHOTO BY WATSON WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2006 5 WWD.COM Balmshell: Lip Gloss With a Smile LONDON — Identical twins Jennifer and Fiona Lees “We’re quite comfortable being where we are now,” with researchers from the Hungarian Laboratory of plan to shake up the beauty industry with Balmshell, said Lees. “In a few months we’ll look at other places.” Dermatology and came up with Pannon Complex, a con- their nascent line of quirky lip glosses. Industry sources estimate the line will coction including Hungarian spa waters, The Canadian duo hopes to bring a smile to lips as generate $200,000 in its fi rst year. zinc, copper gluconate and magnesium as- well as a shine, since each gloss’ packaging features a The pair is also looking to extend the partate. The complex is said to stimulate “fl oat art” scene. One of the ele- Balmshell concept into cell renewal, collagen production and elas- ments of the scene slides inside the other cosmetics catego- tin synthesis, while protecting skin against transparent end of the tube when ries and to introduce free radicals. the product is tilted. The lip color is BEAUTY BEAT seasonal limited edi- “We wanted to develop something to go on the other end of the product. tions. “We started with into every product, a way of boosting [the Each of the line’s 10 glosses features a different glosses to get our feet wet,” added Lees. skin’s natural functions],” said de Heinrich story line. Shopaholic, a sheer baby-pink shade, has Plans are also afoot to begin retailing on de Omorovicza. fl oat art of a woman going into a store and leaving the brand’s Web site, balmshell.com, and to The eight-unit line developed around with a bag-laden doorman in tow. Curse of the Purse, extend the “Balm Squad” — a community of the complex is said to have antiaging ben- a sheer peachy-cream hue, has images of a love-struck Balmshell fans who give feedback on prod- Omorovicza efi ts and targets women aged 30 and up. It lady passing a man to head toward a handbag store. ucts — to the Internet. comprises a Cleansing Milk, Gentle Buffi ng Illustrator Mar Murube created the brand’s colorful — Brid Costello Cleanser, Deep Cleansing Mask, Refi ning characters. Moisturiser, Illuminating Moisturiser, Reviving Eye “The stories are really fun,” said Jennifer Lees, add- Cream, Rejuvenating Night Cream and Queen of Hungary ing that the packaging design was inspired by a novelty Mist. Prices range from 42 pounds, or $80 at current ex- pen. “They’re meant to make you laugh and smile.” Omorovicza Taps Hungarian Water change rates, for a 125-ml. bottle of Cleansing Milk, to Each product comes with a key chain attachment, LONDON — The power of Hungarian spa water was 83 pounds, or $158, for a 50-ml. bottle of Illuminating which allows women to go on enjoying the fl oat art even tapped for the new premium skin treatment line called Moisturiser. after the gloss is fi nished. Omorovicza. Industry sources estimate the line will generate Of course, when creating the collection, getting the “There’s no end to the ailments for which doctors pre- $500,000 to $1 million at retail in its fi rst year. product formulation right was as important as hitting the scribe [Hungarian] water treatments,” said Stephen de Omorovicza was introduced in Harvey Nichols stores right note with its packaging, according to Heinrich de Omorovicza, who founded the in September and will bow in the U.S. in Spring 2007. the pair, who noted they had problems fi nd- line along with his wife, Margaret. He noted The brand also opened a freestanding store in Budapest ing everything they wanted in a lip product Balmshell that various spa waters are prescribed for this summer. in the past. lip gloss. different health complaints. “It gives us an identity,” said de Heinrich de “We thought, wouldn’t it be great if some- The couple realized that soaking in Omorovicza. “It’s the home of the brand.” one would make a lip gloss that was all things Budapest’s traditional bathhouses also had Creating a strong link to Hungary and to de Heinrich — moist, high gloss, not sticky and feels in- benefi cial effects on skin. de Omorovicza’s ancestors was a major factor when cre- credibly sexy on the lips,” said Jennifer Lees. “We noticed [the water] had a very interest- ating the brand, he said. “Women are very smart,” chimed in her ing effect on the skin — it was smoothing and “I always wanted to start a company in Hungary,” he twin. “They might buy one gloss for fun but softening,” said de Heinrich de Omorovicza. said. “[We wanted to do something linked to] Hungarian if the formula is not up to standard, they He explained that the Earth’s crust in the heritage and my family’s heritage.” won’t buy it again. We’re selling lip gloss, Carpathian Basin is thinner than in other A crown from the de Heinrich de Omorovicza fami- not fl oat art.” locations, so water reaching the surface con- ly’s crest is emblazoned on Omorovicza’s packaging. In The brand bowed in Canada’s Holt Ren- tains higher concentrations of minerals and tribute to 19th-century Hungarian design, the interiors frew and the U.K.’s Selfridges in September. trace elements, such as calcium, magnesium, of the brand’s product cartons are decorated with a Each 2.5-gram gloss is priced in the U.K. at zinc and copper. marbled pattern. 15 pounds, or $28 at current exchange. With a treatment project in mind, the pair met — B.C.

which is in a magazine format. No word on whether viewers get one, too. Meanwhile, the reality show “I’m From Traub Hire Broadens Fashion Scope MEMO PAD Rolling Stone” premieres Jan. 7 on MTV, during which six painstakingly telegenic By David Moin she worked on larger buyouts, includ- FACT AND FICTION: At least someone still thinks twentysomethings will vie for a contributing ing House of Fraser. Bauger led a con- there’s glamour in the Old Media — TV and editor’s spot at the magazine. (Of course, this NEW YORK — Seeking to broaden sortium that put in a successful $664 the movies. First there was “The Devil Wears isn’t the fi rst time MTV has delved into the its international consulting practice, million bid for the British department Prada,” with perhaps a TV version down the magazine world — remember the unrenewed Marvin Traub Associates has hired store chain last fall. road, then “Ugly Betty.” Now there are two new “Miss Seventeen” featuring now-departed Aslaug Magnusdottir, a businesswom- Before Baugur, Magnusdottir attempts to bring the magazine editor Atoosa Rubenstein?) an and lawyer with a wide skill set was a management consultant in Mc- world to the small screen, one In the fi rst episode, Rolling and an eye for opportunities in the Kinsey & Co.’s London offi ce and a fi ctional and one reality, both Stone editor and publisher fashion world. lawyer for Deloitte & Touche Iceland. of which will bow in the fi rst Jann Wenner’s calls to the six Magnusdottir will become vice pres- She has an MBA from Harvard and a week of January. fi nalists provide a glimpse at ident, working with law degree from Duke On FX’s upcoming drama what music magazines mean Marvin Traub, presi- University. “Dirt,” which premieres to the Internet generation: dent, and Mortimer Marvin Traub Tuesday, Lucy Spiller, played very little. Hearing Wenner Singer, senior vice Associ ates consults on by Courteney Cox, edits a introduce himself on the call, president. She will be merchandising, mar- magazine she describes as Krishtine repeats, “Ian? Is it joining the fi rm early keting, media, brand- “People magazine with a Ian?” and asks the famed in 2007 and has relo- ing and global issues healthy dose of ‘Screw you.’” magazine editor to spell cated to New York City for retailers and con- She is the type of editor who it. “You’d better learn it,” from the U.K. sumer goods compa- deems the headline “Pass Wenner laughs awkwardly. “Our fashion con- nies, as well as licens- the Cottage Cheese” too “That will be tattooed on your sulting business is ing and merger and “abstract” for a spread on arm before we’re done with growing,” said Singer. acquisition activities. celebrity backsides — “Dis- the summer.” “Aslaug will be help- Traub’s clients have ASS-ter” being more her Bad boy fi nalist Russell ing American brands included American Ex- speed. Whether its Bonnie sasses the editor. Told by and international re- press, Ralph Lauren, Courteney Cox on the set of “Dirt.” Fuller-esque protagonist will hold Wenner that he’s heard tailers expand. She’s Elie Tahari, Jones mainstream America’s fascination week to Russell is a good writer, the contestant a strategist with fi nan- Aslaug Magnusdottir New York, Saks Fifth week remains to be seen, particularly given retorts, “Google me!” cial expertise coupled Avenue, Linens-N- the occasional — and obscure — real-life But there’s always hope in Krystal, a with a sense of fashion. She has a Things and the Al Tayer Group in media touches on the show. Does most of nostalgia tripper who gets fashion and music deep knowledge of what makes a Dubai. Traub, the former chairman America even know who former New York cues from the era of Rolling Stone’s heyday and business tick in the fashion world.” of Bloomingdale’s, also has been in- Times movie critic Elvis Mitchell, who is tells Wenner, “This is better than getting a call Singer said Traub Associates is volved in mall projects in Panama referenced in one early episode, is? When the from the President.” The Bush-bashing Wenner considering establishing an invest- City, Athens and the Time Warner owner of the magazine complains about being responds, “He’d just send you to Iraq.” ment fund in which Magnusdottir Center here and helps clients devel- “snubbed at the ASME awards,” will anyone Saddled with the task of actually editing could be instrumental. op overseas distribution and expand get it? (Of course, nitpicky media insiders the contestants’ copy, executive editor Joe Magnusdottir formerly ran the across borders. might point out that they’re actually called Levy seems to be desperately trying to keep a venture business unit of Baugur Traub Associates has a staff of the National Magazine Awards — and that straight face. No surprise, given the fi nalists’ Group, an investment company fo- seven and a pool of 15 former princi- everyone feels snubbed in one way or another.) more clueless moments (“Boho — isn’t that cused on the fashion, retail, service pals that Traub arranged to be avail- The cable channel has ordered 13 short for Brooklyn?” asks contestant Colin). and real estate sectors in Iceland able for consulting on a freelance episodes of the series. Staff writers include Despite their obvious enthusiasm and early and northern Europe. At Baugur, basis. Traub recently expanded his former People assistant managing editor Albert episode cameos by Nelly Furtado and other stars, she led the company’s effort to take reach by becoming chairman of SD Kim and fellow Time Inc.-er Rebecca Dameron, there are moments in which the mystique of stakes in small fashion fi rms, includ- Retail Consulting, which is involved and perhaps they contributed the “inside the magazine world seems like a hard sell. ing Matthew Williamson, the colorful in financial, operational, strategic baseball” content. Regardless, the FX team Walking through the aisles of the magazine’s designer collection with a celebrity and supply chain issues. The two helpfully included a glossary for terms like New York offi ces, one contestant remarks, following; Criminal Clothing, a denim fi rms will share clients to expand “rate base” and “copy fl ow” in the press kit, “Dude, this looks like Enron.” — Irin Carmon brand, and PPQ, a high-end clothing their consulting practices and col- and accessories label. In addition, laborate on certain projects. 6 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2006 The Party Line NEW YORK — They may begin by saying, “I don’t care about New Year’s Eve” or “I just prefer to stay home,” but the designers WWD asked for their take on the evening do have a more glamorous picture of the way their customers will be toasting at midnight. Their

versions of dressing up ranged from stark to ▲ Mark Badgley and James Mischka’s dazzling, from downright quirky to quite grand. crystal-embroidered silk caftan for Badgley Mischka: “It’s an easy and relaxed yet festive way to dress that night,” says Badgley. “It’s perfect for Palm Beach, where we usually spend the holiday. This year we will be in Goa and will bring a caftan to our hostess. The graphics and beaded sparkle of the fabric are a natural partner for champagne and caviar.”

▲ Oscar de la Renta’s embroidered tulle dress: “Youthfulness is today the essence of femininity,” says de la Renta. “This would be the perfect dress anywhere for the festive season.” WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Joanna Mastroianni’s draped Natori’s matte jersey pants with a beaded dress with a beaded torso and Modal and mesh top under a leather-fringed embroidered fringe: “My vision cashmere shawl: “I see this under the night for that night is a fabulous, sky in Turks and Caicos for the quiet elegance sexy cocktail dress to greet the of a celebration for friends and family,” New Year in a warm place, just says Josie Natori. “It is subtle, but festive.” dancing barefoot on the beach with lots of champagne and the magical light of the moon,” says the designer.

Roland Nivelais’ satin gown with jewel straps and organza rufﬂ es: “This belongs in Buenos Aires, of course!” says the designer. “It’s the hot place for New Year’s Eve, where you can tango all night.” ▲

▲ Maggie Norris’ velvet-collared, chalk-striped cashmere tails over a boned cotton tuxedo shirt and cashmere ﬂ annel pants: Norris sees her look as belonging to a “modern-day aristocracy; a Byron-esque beauty relaxing in an intimate gathering beside the Jacobean ﬁ replace at Cliveden House in the English countryside...raising a champagne glass to ring in the New Year.”

Yeohlee’s stretch Egyptian cotton dress: “This dress was inspired by, and I see it being worn at, a Schindler house in Los Angeles, where it is perfect for an inside-outside New Year’s Eve affair in the California climate,” notes the designer. “The train can be whisked up and out of the way in an instant.” 8 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2006 Luring the Fashionable With Food

Continued from page one cafe tables at its new Seoul maison and its expanded Ginza store in Tokyo. Next year, Italian eateries will open in the new Ginza flagships of Giorgio Armani and Bulgari. Laduree, one of Paris’ marquee pastry purveyors, is gearing up for an international expansion push to place its colorful macaroons — featured prominently in Sofi a Coppola’s fi lm “Marie Antoinette” — in Mitsukoshi in Tokyo, Villa Moda in Kuwait and the renovated Plaza Hotel complex in New York. “I defi nitely see a strong link between fashion and food since they are both an important part of our lifestyle,” said Shiekh Majed Al-Sabah, president of Villa Moda, who disclosed he has seven food-related projects in the works, including branches of Bubo from Barcelona, TMSK from Shanghai and The Temple Club from Ho Chi Minh City.

France’s Laduree is expanding into fashion-driven department stores. “You are talking to a much bigger customer base in food, but using the power of the fashion brands to attract. I actually established Villa Moda Food Co., which will handle all these operations.” Andrew Keith, vice president of merchandising at Lane Crawford, described the retailer’s The cafe at the Hermès fl agship in Ginza specializes in coffee. showcase of six international gourmet chocolate brands as a “huge success,” adding, “the idea is to bring newness into the marketplace.” ion fl oor is accelerating. service to increase visits and amount of time per visit in Lane Crawford also has a restaurant In Japan, where luxury the Ginza fl agship building,” Lee said. specializing in Mediterranean cuisine at Tokyo customers can take home spending is diversifying into Christian Blanckaert, executive vice president of its fl agship IFC location, plus Champagne Gucci chocolates. fi ne food and wine, retailers Hermès International in charge of international affairs, and martini bars scattered throughout vari- are adapting quickly. Earlier this said the company’s two new cafes were designed to solidify ous departments. “We’re looking at how we can month, Isetan unveiled a revamped Hermès boutiques as a destination, particularly at its Seoul incorporate that into other locations,” Keith noted. food hall that included a special corner location in Dosan Park, which is off the main luxury strip. “The customers are really open to experimenting.” for wines and additive-free sakes. “We have to fi nd a unique way to bring an extra ser- For example, he cited brisk sales of Dom Perignon Lineups for a table at Gucci’s Ginza cafe are com- vice,” he said, noting that tasting adds to the sensations in a special package in collaboration with industrial monplace on weekends, and the tiramisu, dusted with of sight, feel and smell that are already part of the luxu- designer Marc Newson. cocoa powder in the form of the “GG” logo, is among the ry shopping experience. Certain designers and retailers have long incorporat- most popular dishes. Executives acknowledged that running a full-scale ed restaurants, cafes or bars into their brand universe; “Our customers appreciate the best of everything — restaurant, while lucrative, is a daunting and risky Giorgio Armani and the London retailer Joseph fre- that goes for food and drink as well as handbags, shoes venture, given that bad food or service could taint the quently are cited as pioneers. Department stores Harrods and clothing,” said Gucci chief executive offi cer Mark image of a fashion brand. and Selfridges in London have long been renowned for Lee. “They also appreciate exclusive experiences, and “We are very modest in scope,” Blanckaert said, not- their food halls, but rival Harvey Nichols took it one that’s what the Ginza Cafe provides.” ing the Hermès Ginza location serves only coffee, albeit step further in the Nineties, installing a fi fth fl oor on its Gucci operates only two cafes in its network of 210 a special blend. A cappuccino costs 1,680 yen, or $14.31 Knightsbridge fl agship to house an expensive restaurant, stores (the other is in Milan) and has no plans to open at current exchange. cafe, coffee bar, wine store and gourmet food department more eateries. Still, Lee acknowledged the Ginza cafe Al-Sabah said spending on food in the Middle East is that became an immediate success. encourages, enhances and probably extends customer massive, easily reaching 250 to 300 euros, or about $328 But the infi ltration of fi ne food and drinks on the fash- visits and spending. “It is more about offering a unique to $394, respectively, per person at events. WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2006 9 WWD.COM Lines are common at Gucci’s cafe in Tokyo.

HERMES PHOTO BY MICHEL DENANCE; GUCCI BY HIROAKI HORIGUCHI MICHEL DENANCE; GUCCI BY HERMES PHOTO BY Geri’s Hug Me ring. Below: Jewelry designer Geri Samuel. Geri Continues Family Tradition

By Rachel Brown uilding on a strong family heritage, two grandchildren of Bthe French jeweler Fred are spearheading their own single-name jewelry company, Geri. For the record, Geri and Anthony, the twin siblings behind Geri, do have a surname — Samuel, the same as that of the family patriarch who established the Fred jewelry business in 1936. Our customers appreciate the best of everything — that goes But sticking with only a fi rst name helps the new brand foster “ accessibility in a luxury market where expensive, unattainable for food and drink as well as handbags, shoes and clothing. fi ne jewelry is the norm. ” “There is a need for jewelry that I can buy for my girlfriend — Mark Lee, Gucci without taking a loan that I know she is going to wear everyday,” said Anthony Samuel. “There is a gap in the jewelry industry right now for a brand like Geri that is colorful, young-looking and refreshing. Buyers were getting a little bit bored.” Geri, based in Los Angeles, will begin rolling out to stores in January in time for Valentine’s Day. Feelings, the premiere collection consists of three thematic subparts: Kiss Me, Hug Me and Love Me. Items in the collection retail from $400 to nearly $4,000. The brand is targeting stores such as Polacheck’s Jewelers in Calabasas, Calif., and David Orgell in Beverly Hills. At its height, Anthony Samuel noted, Fred, acquired by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in 1995, popularized charm bracelets. And Geri, he said, has a fantasti- cal whimsy that appeals to women who do not take jewelry too se- riously. Geri Samuel, the head designer and face of the brand, prefers intimate pieces and offers them in variety of sizes to suit mothers and daughters, of which she has two: three-year-old Sasha and Lya, who is not yet a year old. “The Feelings collection is about my children and me. I designed when I was pregnant with my first daughter,” said Geri Samuel, who cultivated her craft by freelance designing for Chanel and Cartier. To pin down the Geri look, she said she asked herself, “What would be the perfect gift that I would love to receive the day I become a mother? A kiss from my baby.” Hopping around Los Angeles to various events to promote the line, Geri wears dainty Kiss Me necklaces characterized by decorative lips, often in white or yellow gold with pavé dia- Lane Crawford’s chocolate room showcases six international brands. monds and semiprecious stones such as black onyx, tigereye and mother-of-pearl. Hug Me pieces contain cloud-like shapes. Two collections “People from our part of the world do not think overhauls of La Rinascente and Printemps, following Feelings — Romance in the Park and Evening — will twice when it comes to food,” he said. “I strongly both part of the Borletti Group controlled by La feature more dramatic special occasion jewelry priced up to recommend all the brands to capitalize from the Rinascente’s chairman, Maurizio Borletti. $10,000. success of the food business in our region and Borletti said he planned to create “a food stall In the fi rst year, Anthony Samuel aims to put Geri jewelry in start opening up their restaurants ASAP.” on the last fl oor of La Rinascente Milan fl agship 70 stores and generate $3.5 million in revenues. In the second Laduree president David Holder said he’s à la Harvey Nichols and Harrods. There will year, he estimated revenues would grow to $10 million, buoyed by positioning his pastries as luxury accessories — be some take-away, too. We want to offer a wide international distribution and a planned stand-alone Geri store. with productivity that can rival a cosmetics coun- choice so that our customers can have something “I am pushing to go really fast because that is the way I am,” ter’s — which has fanned broad interest from different every day.” said Anthony Samuel. fashion retailers eager to add sweets to the mix. He noted that Printemps was already far The way the Samuels are is strongly infl uenced by those who “It’s fun for the shop. It’s something unique,” said ahead, with eight restaurants, including a preceded them. When quizzed about her favorite jewelry piec- Holder, noting he recently had negotiations with Laduree tea room, and a recently opened fi ne- es, Geri Samuel pointed not to store-front dazzlers, but small Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys New York. food corner. Still, he said he planned to further items with family history. At the top of the list: a pinky ring with Founded in 1862, Laduree fi rst expanded out- develop this sector, since the stores are located a tiny ruby and sapphires her mother wore when she was preg- side of France last year when it opened a location in areas around Paris that are fi lled with offi ces, nant with Geri. Anthony Samuel looks no farther than his offi ce at Harrods in London. Laduree also has outlets in shoppers and tourists. desk, crowded with pictures and memorabilia to remember his the Boulevard Haussmann fl agship of Printemps in “In the past, food in our department stores grandfather, who passed away last October. Paris and in Geneva’s Bon Genie department store. was associated [with] convenience, feeding the “My grandfather has been my mentor. I was always looking Expansion plans for 2007 include a location in hungry shoppers, more as in a cafeteria or a fast up to him,” he said. “I went to France in July and when we told the Burlington Arcade in London in March and in food,” said Borletti. “But just as we offer quality him that we would start Geri, he was the happiest man. He said, Lafayette Gourmet Berlin in April, he added. fashion, why don’t we offer quality food?” ‘I know this is for you.’” High-end food is a vital ingredient in the — With contributions from Luisa Zargani 10 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2006 WWD.COM Denim Report Christopher Blue Takes Low-Key Approach By Kavita Daswani velveteen and corduroy fabrics. Also upcoming is a new line of knit tops that will start shipping in the spring. LOS ANGELES — Unlike most premium denim players, “Everything has Lycra in it so, like the jeans, the line Mel Matsui doesn’t clamor after celebrity endorsements will be based on fi t,” he said. The tops have a wholesale or media hype. price of $60. His objective has been to offer his line of Christopher Despite the launches, Matsui said the core appeal Blue jeans to women who covet the slender cuts and low of Christopher Blue would not change. When the com- rises of most trendy jeans labels, but need a fi t that is pany was founded out of his home, the premium market more forgiving. didn’t really exist, so the collection’s starting price of It’s a tactic that seems to have worked. The 10-year- $55 wholesale was one of the highest in the market. old Seattle company will end 2006 with about $43 mil- “We started shipping the stretch jeans in 2002, and lion in sales, up from $29 million in 2005. The company that’s when it all broke loose,” he said. “We’re not leath- is poised to launch new categories in 2007, a er-jacket people who got into move that Matsui believes should increase denim. We’re totally focused sales by 20 percent. on fi t, and we’ve learned over “We don’t advertise, and we’re not tied the years that fi t is the lasting into any celebrities, wannabes or queen quality, rather than hype and bees,” said Matsui. “It’s basically a jean celebrity endorsements.” that fi ts.” Matsui worked for Quiksilver and Code Bleu before launching his own line, which was acquired in October We don’t advertise, 2005 by apparel conglomerate “ HartMax Corp. The line is in and we’re not tied into about 1,500 doors nationwide, including specialty stores and any celebrities, wannabes major department stores. A spokeswoman at Neiman or queen bees. Marcus said its buyers were ” drawn to the line because of — Mel Matsui, Christopher Blue the “need for denim with an updated contemporary look Christopher Blue is named after his and styling, but with a misses’ son with his wife, Barbara, who runs the fi t.” Top sellers include the business with Matsui. Additions to the Juku, a high-rise, skinny jean core collection for next year include, for that is still relaxed. spring, Worn, a men’s denim line that will Matsui said despite the wholesale for $48 to $55, and Pine IV, which proliferation of high-end Matsui describes as a “super premium line jeans, there remains a dearth for a woman who hasn’t had kids” that just of options in the better con- was launched to the market. temporary segment. “It’s meant to hang with the big-hype “It’s such a specialized boys and all the Los Angeles and New York market that we like to think brands,” said Matsui of Pine IV, which car- we kind of stand on our own,” ries a $200 price tag. “It’s a small, compact line using he said. “It’s nice to be in a category that everyone ne- Looks Japanese denim, and the fi t is more extreme, suitable for glects. We make jeans for women who are not a prisoner from the the supermodel type. We want to compete on that level.” of that denim L.A. fashion look, so she doesn’t have to Pine IV In keeping with current denim trends, Pine IV is look foolish or vulgar and is more about looking appro- collection. clean with no whiskers or nicks, and for fall will feature priate and comfortable.” Goldschmied Eyes Retail Expansion in 2007 Lee Jeans By Emili Vesilind Promotes LOS ANGELES — Premium denim brand AG Adriano Goldschmied is expanding its retail base in 2007, adding six lo- Liz Cahill cations to its portfolio of 13 full-price and outlet locations in the U.S. and South Korea. LIZ CAHILL HAS BEEN PRO– Brand retail director Frank Pizzurro said plans to launch moted to vice president of stores in most major U.S. markets have been in the works since marketing and communica- the company, owned by-based Koos Manufacturing Inc., based in tions at Lee Jeans. South Gate, Calif., opened its fi rst store here in October 2004 on In her new role, Cahill will Robertson Boulevard. be responsible for all market- Still, the company is particular about where it plants its fl ag. ing and communications for “We’re trying to go into higher-end neighborhoods, positing AG the Lee brand, including ad- as a luxury denim brand,” said Pizzurro. “If we go into a mall, I vertising, public relations, in- want to be by Louis Vuitton and Gucci, not next to Gap or Banana store merchandising and on- Republic.” line sales. She will report to Among the openings, fi rst up will be a 3,000-square-foot, full- Joe Dzialo, president of Lee. price location in San Francisco’s Union Square and a 2,200- “Her determination and vi- square-foot, full-price unit in Miami’s South Beach, both slated sion have been a driving force to open at the beginning of February. Next will be spring launch- in Lee’s revitalization, and es of a full-price, 2,300-square-foot location in Naples, Fla., we are certain she will con- and a 2,600-square-foot outlet store at the Camarillo Outlets in tinue to take the Lee brand to

Camarillo, Calif. Finally, the company will open a 2,300-square- TESSIER KATHERINE PHOTO BY great places in her new role,” foot store at the Millennium Mall in Orlando, Fla., and a unit in AG Adriano Goldschmied plans to open six stores in 2007. Dzialo said in a statement. the forthcoming Palazzo center in Las Vegas, both in the fall. Cahill joined Lee, a divi- The new stores will echo the “modern industrial” aesthetics sion of VF Corp., in 1989. In found in AG’s existing locations, but Pizzurro said the company a pace commensurate with its wholesale business, adding, “Most 2000, she was named manager “looks for spaces that are a little more unique — like the San of the markets where we’ve opened stores, our wholesale ac- of marketing communication. Francisco store, which has gold accents. I try to fi nd a space that counts have gone up. Our stores have helped brand the product, Two years later, she was pro- has character….We want to be a neighborhood store wherever rather than just relying on buyers to support the brand.” moted to director of adver- we go.” Wholesale accounts include Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, tising and public relations, The company roots out retail spaces that require minimal Bloomingdale’s, Bergdorf Goodman and Anthropologie. where she launched the “Get renovation, then integrates steel display pieces custom-made at AG Adriano Goldschmied jeans sell from $138 to $195. Despite what fi ts” marketing campaign Koos’ 450,000-square-foot vertically integrated factory, the larg- denim’s fl agging sales lately, Pizzurro said stores had not per- and Lee National Denim Day, est denim factory in the U.S., located 10 miles south of downtown ceived any price resistance from shoppers and that business was which raises funds for breast Los Angeles. robust. “We think if we make really good product, then customers cancer research. Pizzurro said the brand was trying to expand its retail base at will fi gure it out. We assume our customers are intelligent.” — Ross Tucker WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2006 11 WWD.COM The Beat Small Boutiques Grow Online By Cate T. Corcoran SHOPPING ONLINE IS NOW AS ROUTINE AS WALKING INTO A STORE, SO IT’S only natural the virtual world has begun to mirror the real one. There are now dozens of small online boutiques competing with more established and bigger names like Girlshop, Net-a-Porter, Shopbop and Active Endeavors. All are helping to raise the profi le of cutting-edge and little-known designers among both hip urban dwellers and those living off the Barneys New York grid. Some of the sites resemble a big SoHo store that does a booming business in colorful T-shirts and designer jeans, while others are more like a tiny, offbeat shop that specializes in obscure but innovative designers. Many are the online branches of real- world stores. A surprising number ape the look of Shopbop, which was bought by Every shopper at Azalea’s Web site gets advice from a stylist. Amazon earlier this year, and carry many of the same contemporary mainstays, such as Vince, Generra and Splendid. Typically, a small boutique that opens an online store can expect to generate about $300,000 in revenue the fi rst year, said store owners. Once it is established, revenues of $500,000 to $1 million are about average, particularly for the more commercial ventures. In many cases, an online store equals a physical store in revenue, but draws customers from around the globe. “It opens up what you’re doing to a wider audience,” said Jeff Madalena, co-owner of the Brooklyn boutique and Web site Oak. Here are seven of the more unusual newcomers.

Blaec’s unusual interface resembles store windows.

Oak Oaknyc.com The Brooklyn boutique run by two former stylists and designers, Jeff Madalena and Louis Terline, has been on a tear, opening a store in Williamsburg in 2004, then in Park Slope last year, and an online outpost this year. The concept for all three stores is the same and changes every season. Currently, the look is spare and simple, with mostly black and white pieces from such resources as Opening Ceremony, Veena and jewelry designers Alex + Chloe. For spring, Oak will break out prints and color.

Azalea Hejfi na’s Chicago store offers Azaleaonline.com men’s wear and custom furniture. The San Francisco boutique opened its online store last year after tourists who had shopped at the Hayes Street unit kept calling to reorder. The Web site now accounts for half the company’s revenues and does a signifi cant business in organic beauty products (the real-world store has a nail salon in the back) and also offers a full line of See by Chloe and high-waisted jeans from Gray Ant. Plans are to relaunch the site Hejfi na in March under the name Tobi (a much-loved customer) and add a section for organic Hejfi na.com and sustainable clothes, such as Levi’s green Eco line. This Chicago lifestyle store opened its online shop in March after being deluged The Web site’s Lookbook section shows shoppers how to put together an outfi t and with inquiries from people outside the area. Most of its Web sales now come from every online buyer is automatically assigned a personal stylist who offers advice on Southern California and the New York metropolitan area. While the real-world store how to wear each purchased item. Shipping is free for orders over $100 and occa- hosts lectures on architecture and displays art by local up-and-comers, the Web store sional promotions offering free shipping outside the U.S. have won many overseas stocks a passel of inventive, frolicsome frocks that would not be out of place at a customers, said co-owner Catherine Chow. big-city art opening. Designers include Isabel Marant, Alice Ritter and Alexander Herchcovitch. Milk Shopatmilk.com La Garconne An offshoot of the year-old West Hollywood boutique, this cute and funky online store Lagarconne.com has a front page featuring a fun collage. Owners and cousins Marni Flans and Bari The spare, beautifully designed site has girlish Mod out- Milken opened the e-tailing site in June because “online shopping has become huge,” fi ts carefully selected from high-quality labels such as as Flans put it. “People don’t want to leave the house.” Swedish jeans maker Cheap Monday, Vanessa Bruno and The online shop leans toward retro-inspired clothes in soft colors from such lines cashmere specialists Lutz & Patmos. The online-only as Christopher Deane, Sue Stemp, American Retro and Sretsis. Other offerings in- store opened in 2005 and is based in Fairfi eld, Conn., clude sneakers, ballet fl ats, Pollini pumps and vintage. but ships globally. Shipping is free on orders over $100. The interior of Creatures of Comfort’s Melrose store. Creatures of Comfort Shop.creaturesofcomfort.us La Garconne’s online store. This Los Angeles store favors sculptural clothing paired with playful shoes, such as fuzzy rubber fl ats from Melissa Green. Owner and buyer Jade Lai opened her online store last May to give more exposure to diffi cult-to-fi nd designers such as United Bamboo, Vena Cava and Carson Potter. “It is benefi cial for both the store and customers who are looking for the hard-to- fi nd designers,” she said. She plans to introduce her own line this spring.

Blaec Blaec.com The online-only store opened its doors for business in 2000. Its name, pronounced black, means just that in Old English. Its unusual interface is designed to look like store windows, with mannequins wearing outﬁ ts in each one. A click on an individual item brings up information about and a bigger photo of the piece. The Santa Barbara, Calif.-based boutique used to specialize in resources from nearby Los Angeles, but now owner Jodi McMillen hunts for fresh labels from all over the world. She plans to carry KA7, the much-anticipated new collection from Katayone Adeli when it is available in February. Other labels include Gray Ant, Catherine Malandrino, 3.1 by Phillip Lim, Kenneth Jay Lane and Sass & Bide. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2006 WWD.COM

So many parties, so little time. The fashion world partied everywhere in TheWWDList 2006, but some of the biggest of the best can be found on the ranking below of the soirees and events that generated the most hits on Style.com. In fact, a number of the rankings include more than just one event, such as the slew of festivities held during New York Fashion Week, and the numerous after parties following the Academy Awards. But few can argue with the excitement generated by the number-one ranked gala at the Metropolitan The Affairs to Remember Museum of Art’s Costume Exhibit — its name says it all. — Cecily Hall The 10 parties and events of the year most viewed on Style.com.

THE COSTUME INSTITUTE PARTY OF THE YEAR Page views: 4,145,041 ’Twas a star-studded eve last May at the opening gala for the Met’s Costume Institute exhibit, “AngloMania.” Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour was the host, as always, while celebs were “all gussied up in vivid designer frocks,” said WWD. Jennifer Lopez wore Versace, Sarah Jessica Parker was clad in Alexander McQueen (at left with the designer) and Scarlett Johansson arrived with Stella McCartney, wearing Stella McCartney. 1 Plenty of British designers were also in attendance, including John Galliano, Manolo Blahnik, Luella Bartley and Burberry’s Christopher Bailey. The event raised $4.5 million — understandably so, since table prices ranged from $50,000 to $150,000.

2006 ACADEMY AWARDS RED CARPET Page views: 3,399,013 Oscar’s red carpet should never be missed by fashion lovers. This year, Supporting Actress winner Rachel Weisz chose an Empire-waisted Narciso Rodriguez gown, while Best Actress winner Reese Witherspoon appeared in a sparkly vintage Christian Dior dress. Nominees Keira Knightley, seen left, and Michelle Williams wore Vera Wang; Nicole Kidman showed up in a beaded Balenciaga piece, and her friend Naomi Watts wore a one- 2 shoulder Givenchy. One-shouldered dresses, ﬂ oor-sweeping trains and silver and gold gowns were all hot red carpet trends this time around.

2006 GOLDEN GLOBES Page views: 3,140,758 “There’s been talk about the lack of strong roles for women in ﬁ lm this awards season, but there was no shortage of memorable dresses on the Golden Globes red carpet,” reported Style.com. This year, both black and white dresses ruled, like Sarah Jessica Parker in a tiered lace gown by Olivier Theyskens for Rochas and Renée Zellweger in Carolina Herrera. Another hit: red. Laura Linney and Geena Davis both reﬂ ected the 3 carpet’s color in their gowns, with mixed success, along with Jennifer Garner, who appeared in vintage Valentino couture. Michelle Williams, seen here, opted for a purple Givenchy Couture number.

2006 CFDA FASHION AWARDS Page views: 2,560,926 Francisco Costa took home the women’s wear designer of the year award at the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Fashion Awards in June, while Thom Browne scored the men’s wear award. Attendees may also remember the lengthy speeches and performances that caused the party to end late. No matter, since guests could stare at each other: Jessica Simpson showed off her assets in a Michael Kors, Penélope Cruz dazzled in 4 Marchesa and Alicia Keys — who performed “The Way You Look Tonight” with John Legend — appeared in Vera Wang. Two other showstoppers: Karl Lagerfeld and Lindsay Lohan (seen here wearing Lagerfeld Collection, with the designer), who arrived together in a gigantic black minibus.

ACADEMY AWARDS AFTER PARTIES Page views: 2,221,052 Festivities in this category included pre-Oscar bashes. The Weinstein clan welcomed the likes of Dame Judi Dench, Sienna Miller, George Clooney and George Lucas to its fete at the Paciﬁ c Design Center, while earlier in the week, partygoers ﬂ ocked to the opening of Christopher Wool’s show 5 at the Gagosian Gallery in Beverly Hills. The crowd included Kirsten Dunst, Matt Dillon and Zac Posen. The two grandiose events following the Oscars were the annual Vanity Fair bash, where guests such as Sandra Bullock, Kate Bosworth, Jennifer Lopez,, seen here, and Winona Ryder mingled, and the Elton John AIDS Foundation post-Oscar party, with partiers Sharon Stone, Pamela Anderson and Nicole Richie.

FALL 2006 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK PARTIES, PART 3 Page views: 1,599,020 Style.com’s ﬁ nal grouping of fashion week soirees included Calvin Klein’s after party at Morimoto which drew designer Francisco Costa, of course, as well as Uma Thurman, Mena Suvari and Ashley Olsen. Zac Posen, at left with Nicky Hilton, hosted his own after party at Christie’s where Posen let loose on the dance ﬂ oor later with Hilton and Claire Danes. And at 485 Fifth Avenue, Peter Som drew in guests not just to discuss the collection, but 6 also to show off his interior designs at the newly opened venue to attendees such as Amanda Hearst and Sarah Wynter. Another notable party was Narciso Rodriguez’s event at Del Posto, Mario Batali’s new joint, hosted by Rachel Weisz. O SARDELLA

MID-WINTER NEW YORK PARTIES Page views: 1,404,552 Last winter’s temps were frigid, but the party scene remained unfazed. Said Style.com, “The title of the Cinema Society’s latest sneak peek — ‘Winter Passing’ — was highly appropriate, given how much of the aforementioned white stuff had melted by Wednesday night’s screening at the Tribeca Grand.” Moviegoers 7 included cast members Zooey Deschanel, Ed Harris and Amerila Warner. The same evening, the Winter Ballet Ball took place at the School of American Ballet, where everyone from Chelsea Clinton to Kanye West to Tinsley Mortimer, seen here, enjoyed dinner and dancing. Other parties included the winter ball at the American Museum of Natural History and the Museum of the City of New York’s 20th annual winter gala, sponsored by Oscar de la Renta.

FALL 2006 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK PARTIES, PART 1 Page views: 1,368,747 Parties in this category included Mario Testino’s “Out of Fashion” exhibition (hosted by Anna Wintour and Vogue cover girl Drew Barrymore, seen here with Mario Testino); the M.A.C. kickoff party for fashion week, where models were adorned with body paint designs from Vivienne Tam, Zac Posen 8 and Heatherette’s Richie Rich and Traver Rains; a cocktail party to beneﬁ t God’s Love We Deliver at the de Grisogono store; Patrick McMullan’s book party at the Four Seasons, where Carolina Herrera, Kelly Klein and Ivana Trump stopped by, and Sean Combs’ fragrance launch at the Core Club. Said Combs of his new scent, Unforgivable: “If you wear this, you’ll deﬁ nitely be cooler. I mean, it would be hard to be as cool as me, but you’ll be cooler.”

2006 EMMY AWARDS Page views: 1,312,947 Those who chose chiffon for this year’s annual Emmy Awards were lucky, as the temps hovered around 90 degrees for the red carpet mayhem. “I feel like a princess,” Kyra Sedgwick, who was wrapped in yards of dove gray chiffon and tulle by Armani Privé, told WWD. Big trends for the evening: ﬂ owing goddess gowns (Debra Messing, seen here, Heidi Klum, Evangeline Lilly), waist-cinched column gowns (Ellen Pompeo) and 9 antique necklaces (Sandra Oh). Some of the biggest show winners included “24,” “Law & Order: SVU” and “The West Wing.”

2006 SCREEN ACTORS GUILD AWARDS Page views: 1,296,714 Bare shoulders was the trend of the night on the SAG Awards red carpet in February. Many stars, including Sandra Oh, seen here, Felicity Huffman, Sandra Bullock and Hilary Swank, opted for strapless numbers. Black and white were also abundant, with Charlize Theron and Anne 10 Hathaway working with the former and Michelle Williams and Mariska Hargitay representing the latter. Reese Witherspoon, one of the evening’s winners for her performance in “Walk the Line,” walked the red carpet wearing a black-and-white piece from Yves Saint Laurent. Other wins for the night included Philip Seymour Hoffman for Best Actor in “Capote” and “Crash” for Best Drama Ensemble. COSTUME INSTITUTE PHOTO BY JIMI CELESTE; CFDA, MCNY, TESTINO BY STEVE EICHNER; POSEN PARTY BY ZACK SECKLER; ALL OTHERS BY DONAT ZACK SECKLER; ALL OTHERS BY BY STEVE EICHNER; POSEN PARTY TESTINO BY JIMI CELESTE; CFDA,COSTUME INSTITUTE MCNY, PHOTO BY SOURCE: STYLE.COM; TOTAL PAGE VIEWS AS OF DEC. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2006 13 WWD.COM Mignatti Envisions a Brave New ‘World’

Left: David Mignatti, shown here at the site of WorldStreet, wants to bring something new to the retail landscape.landscape. Here:Here: AA looklook atat thethe WorldStreetWorldStreet concept.concept. PHOTO BY KYLE SAMPERTON KYLE PHOTO BY

By Evan Clark cent tour of the site. format, companies will own their stores eign operating ethos to the U.S., the cen- “Victoria’s Secret wouldn’t be a chain under a commercial condominium ar- ter is intended to deliver an international FREDERICKSBURG, Va. — After a helicop- store that would be in WorldStreet, but rangement, and 75 percent of the pur- feel to Virginia. ter tour of the future home of WorldStreet, perhaps one of the manufacturers and chase can be fi nanced by Silver Cos. “We’re bringing an opportunity to ex- a retail concept that will be part mall, part exporters that sell lingerie to Victoria’s The idea is to bring in new players perience a new lifestyle to the American bow to the forces of globalization, a group Secret would establish their own brand with goods that have the ability to cre- public that, unless they got to travel of Venezuelan investors emptied their at WorldStreet,” said Mignatti. “The in- ate a brand identity and then help them to the bazaars of the world, they would water bottles so they could take dirt home dustry is changing worldwide, manufac- expand through print, Web, TV and radio never get to experience,” said Silver. from the construction site. turers are looking for future solutions, ads and business support services from WorldStreet, as he tells it, will be “How great is that? That’s an invest- and one of the solutions is going direct to access to logistic services to store design awash in the smells of exotic cuisines ment in the American dream,” said the consumer.” advice and merchant banking. and the sounds of foreign languages. “The David Mignatti, who is spearheading the Given the dramatic growth among dis- “We’re selling opportunity. This isn’t owners and merchants themselves will be project as president of the WorldStreet counters, continued expansion of single- just another real estate development working in these facilities,” said Silver. Development Division of Silver Cos., the brand specialty stores and consolidation project,” Mignatti said. “We’re inviting The project also helps Silver get master developer. among department stores, at least some new participants.” around a problem as a retail developer. Now just a patch of barren ground overseas manufacturers need a new outlet. In addition to foreign fi rms, World- “Our industry is starving for new an- within the confi nes of Celebrate Virginia, “It’s not easy these days for manufac- Street is courting U.S. brands that don’t chors,” he said, noting there are only so a massive retail complex created by turers to get ahead,” said retail consul- have the ubiquity of well-developed na- many Targets and Wal-Marts and Lowe’s Silver Cos., WorldStreet is set to open tant Walter Loeb, who was not familiar tional names and boutique owners looking to build around. in 2008 and aims to be a new story line with WorldStreet but said the project to expand. A branded presence to draw A Wal-Mart superstore weighs in in the tale of globalization, one that will could be an opportunity for some fi rms. consumers might be key to the endeavor. at about 250,000 square feet, while diminish the roles of major retailers and WorldStreets — there are plans to de- instead offer an outlet to relatively name- velop about a dozen more near major less manufacturers. WorldStreet represents an opportunity to take U.S. cities — could top 1 million square Celebrate Virginia spans 2,400 acres “ feet. “That is a tremendous anchor,” said along Interstate 95 between Washington links out of the supply chain.…The industry is Silver. “We become the center of a gigan- and Richmond. Billed as “North America’s tic draw, a phenomenal experience.” Largest Retail Resort,” it will be home to changing worldwide, manufacturers are looking The center, like Celebrate Virginia, historic attractions such as the National is designed to create a critical mass of Slavery Museum (opening next year) for future solutions, and one of the solutions is shopping to draw people from farther and Central Park, a 2.4 million-square- away and to get them to spend more. foot mixed-use retail and entertainment going direct to the consumer. WorldStreet will connect with other at- complex featuring restaurants and stores ” tractions at Celebrate Virginia — the en- ranging from Wal-Mart to Talbot’s, an in- — David Mignatti, WorldStreet Development Division of Silver Cos. tertainment district, the convention cen- door ice skating rink, a convention center ter and hotels — by buses and rubber-tire and an indoor water park. trolleys. These will convey shoppers along The $200 million-plus WorldStreet “Those manufacturers who are anchored “WorldStreet’s going to need anchors some of Celebrate Virginia’s more than project will be a quarter of a mile long, to Federated or somebody are not likely of brands to attract people,” said Andrew seven miles of internal six-lane parkways, house 250 to 300 stores, six eateries and a to go that route because they’re afraid Jassin, managing director of the Jassin- some of which now lead through empty dozen or more cafes over 750,000 square of losing that contact, that customer. If O’Rourke Group, a fashion consultancy. fi elds being prepared for construction. feet. The roster is still being worked out, you’re not one of the strong fi rst-line re- “Without that, I think it’s a challenge in Already there is a seemingly endless but Mignatti expects about half the stores sources used by the retailers...you’re try- today’s climate.” collection of stores. There is one point at WorldStreet to be operated by foreign ing to fi nd other ways to get contact with Mignatti said stores at WorldStreet where shoppers could see at least four companies, some of which produce goods the customer, support the customer and will also act as wholesale showrooms, stores offering $5,000 fl at-screen TVs and for well-known retailers but haven’t had then the growth through that demand.” where brands can establish a distribution drive no more than 30 seconds between their own storefront in the U.S. To fi nd prospective fi rms, WorldStreet beachhead in the U.S. and haggle with them, amounting to what Mignatti said is Among those confirmed to be tak- is reaching out around the world. store buyers. Brands can also buy space an important component of the project: ing space at WorldStreet are Far East Mignatti recently spent two weeks at the center’s warehouse distribution fa- the “comparative shopping experience.” Imports, based in Alexandria, Va., which promoting the project in China and cilities to service wholesale clients. Still, the striving for critical mass that is specializes in hand-painted vases from has 27 private companies from that This mixture of wholesale and retail, a hallmark of the project begs the question: China and the Far East, accessories com- country scheduled to visit the site by as well as the ability of the brands to How much retail can the market bare? pany Mediterranean Treasures and a mid-February. Slots have already been own their stores, is in line with the way For Mignatti, the fi eld is wide open. jewelry fi rm from Jaipur, India. sold to fi rms from China, India, Turkey, business is conducted outside the U.S., “America’s great pastime is consumer- “WorldStreet represents an oppor- Venezuela and Ecuador, and apparel is said Larry Silver, chief executive offi cer ism — more than sports, more than arts, tunity to take links out of the supply expected to make up about 30 percent to of Silver Cos., who has led the company more than culture,” he said. “We are a chain,” said Mignatti, who recounted the 35 percent of the project. since 1972. country of consumers and shoppers. These story about the Venezuelans during a re- In a departure from the normal mall In addition to bringing a bit of a for- projects respond to the demands.” 14 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2006 WWD.COM

Michael and Daniel Casarella. Below: Barking Little Manhattan Irons rings. These three New York designers are thinking outside the jewelry box. By Sophia Chabbott

EASY BAKE Lauren Crowell loves to sculpt and paint. Having worked at beauty fi rm Stila since 1998, she’s painted famous faces under the tutelage of company founder Jeanine Lobell. But the San Jose, Calif., native, who studied fi ne arts, specializing in ceramics, at San Jose State University, also got to show off her latest experimental sculptures. “I’d wear my necklaces to shoots and they’d just be dangling in the faces of whoever I was doing makeup for and they’d start to ask questions,” said Crowell, who took the notice to heart and earlier this year launched Leonine Design, a fashion jewelry line. She creates one-of-a-kind beads and fobs out of clay, which she then fi res in a kiln in her Manhattan apartment. “I used to make room-size ceramic pieces,” said Crowell of her art while she was in school. “I would Lauren Crowell have never seen myself in fash- in her own ion back then. [Installation art design. is] an elitist way to talk to peo- Inset: Leonine ple, but it doesn’t always reach Design people. Jewelry is accessible.” necklace. Crowell incorporates her love of color and proportion in earthy Mad Max- meets-surfer girl pieces, which wholesale from $100 to $650 and higher for custom body pieces. Standouts include dramatic mul- tistrand Y necklaces of Czech glass beads scented with myrrh that culminate in an oversize, earth tone clay fob, and an in- tricate hair ornament made of glass beads and clay fobs that intertwine with the hair for an ethereal look. “I hope to keep my line small,” said the 26-year-old designer, whose col- HISTORY BUFFS lection has been picked up by Daniel and Michael Casarella are wild about the past of New York — when asked, Kaviar and Kind in Los Angeles. they will relate bloody stories of the city’s Five Points and gangster Ike Rynders — after quoting Walt Whitman, of course. The duo has been incessantly collecting 19th-century New York relics for inspira- Ken Leung and Dana Chin of Bylu. tion for their three-year-old screen-printed T-shirt line, Barking Irons. Now they’re Below: Bylu bracelet. putting those antiques to use with a jewelry line. “The jewelry was a brainstorm,” said Daniel. “There was always a large amount of spoons in antique shops and estate auctions, and it just made sense to me. We’ve got hundreds now, possibly thousands.” In their Bowery studio, the two hand-forge oxidized sterling silver rings and necklaces, using as molds antique silver spoons that are engraved with snapshots of Gotham’s past, such as vintage shots of the Statue of Liberty. Rings for men and women are forged from the spoon’s handles and the spoon itself is used as a pendant for long necklaces. Each style is limited to about 90 pieces. The line wholesales from $130 to $145 and has been picked up by Black Bird in Seattle and Nave in New York. “We were raised in New York and it’s hard to place exactly what fascinates us,” added Daniel. “It’s this forgotten, paved-over history that’s too good to be true.”

GEMETIC CODE College friends Ken Leung and Dana Chin never expected to find themselves in the jewelry design world, even though Leung’s family has been in the gem trade for years. After college, Leung and Chin, who studied economics and computer engineering, respectively, came to New York to pursue their Wall Street dreams, but soon decided they wanted to do something more creative and launched their own jewelry fi rm, Bylu (pronounced “Blue”). “It’s unlikely, but studying computer engineering has really helped me with what we’re doing now; with organizing,” said Chin who, like Leung, is 27. “And we do graphics work in our studio.” The two were unsure about their new venture as it was quite a departure for them. But when Leung’s girlfriend borrowed a piece and wouldn’t return it, they knew they were onto something. Bylu jewelry takes an infl uence from the mosaics of architect Antoni Gaudí, with a delicate, darkly organic feel. Signature styles include a black rhodium-plated hand- made silver chain necklace fi nished with a rough black tourmaline pendant encased in leaves of yellow gold, an oxidized silver wave bangle decorated with pieces of gold and a cocktail ring featuring a large faceted smoky quartz set in the duo’s signature diamond-fl ecked unpolished gold leaves. Pieces wholesale from $250 to $2,500 and the line has been picked up by Fragments in New York, Chepita in Aspen, Colo., and Jamie’s Fine Jewelry in Nashville. Bylu got its fi rst taste of the limelight in 2005 when designer Doo-Ri Chung called upon the two to create jewelry to coordinate with her runway collection. “We always go back to thinking how silly it was when we started this. We’ve learned a lot,” said Leung. “Day by day we’re getting more comfortable in what we’re doing. We’re really focused on working on what inspires us and getting it all the way through.”

Next up for Bylu are men’s jewelry and a home collection. CENTENO TALAYA BY MITRA. CASARELLA PORTRAIT ROBERT BY BARKING IRONS JEWELRY AND CROWELL PORTRAIT LEONINE DESIGNS JEWELRY, WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2006 15 WWD.COM Alexandre Herchcovitch to Open Tokyo Unit The Tokyo store will feature men’s wear collection to be sold in the Tokyo store By Mike Kepp Alexandre on the fi rst fl oor and women’s on the sec- will be for spring; he showed the line at Herchcovitch BRAZILIAN READY-TO-WEAR DE- ond, as well as the designer’s jeans line. São Paulo Fashion Week in July and at signer Alexandre Herchcovitch is look- Herchcovitch has designed the Black Ltd. 7th on Sixth in New York in September. ing East. Edition line exclusively for the shop, which The collection’s standouts were punk- Herchcovitch, whose extracurricu- will also carry the collaborative Judy African stylized tribal prints. Some of lar projects have included uniforms for Blame ‘AND’ Alexandre Herchcovitch line, the outfi ts feature a double-edged razor- McDonald’s employees in Brazil, appar- a limited men’s and women’s collection of blade print or geometric prints, with el for the nation’s Olympic athletes and oversize, inside-out and multicolored tank beadwork and in strong primary colors. a cell phone under his own label with tops and Ts. The label bears a combo of The front, back or side openings are Motorola, has chosen Japan for his fi rst the duo’s trademarks: Herchcovitch’s skull closed with big, beaded safety pins. foreign store, which will open in Tokyo and Blame’s crown. “I chose to do the collection in strong next February. He has fi ve stores in four of Brazil’s biggest cities, together netting $2 million Herchcovitch is hot in Japan because his a year, according to market sources, and “ exports to more than a dozen countries, unique prints and strong colors are very generating another $1 million annually. His main foreign markets are Japan, attuned to Japanese tastes. with 50 percent of exports, and the U.S., ” with 25 percent. — João Santos, H.P. France Partnering with the designer is H.P. France, a clothing distributor and retail- Black Ltd. Edition features pieces primary colors because designers have

er in Japan. France carries Herchcovitch STELA SUNAGA PHOTO BY from prints to monocolor items from past tended to make their palettes too so- in some of its 70 multibrand stores there very attuned to Japanese tastes,” said Herchcovitch collections that the design- phisticated, and I wanted to go back to and distributes the brand to clients. João Santos, an H.P. France project direc- er has dyed black. He launched the line basics,” said Herchcovitch. “And I think France has invested $1 million in leasing tor, “so we decided to be collaborators on “to bring back highlights of past collec- the vibrant nature of this collection will and renovating a 1,076-square-foot, two- his Tokyo store.” tions, but in a different, innovative way.” appeal to Japanese tastes, too.” story freestanding store in Daikanyama, Herchcovitch has another take on “For example,” Herchcovitch said, “if Until now, few Brazilian designers have one of Tokyo’s fashion districts, for Herch- why the Tokyo store will do well: “[The you dye black one of my white shirts, the opened their own stores abroad. Some covitch’s store. A loft above the second Japanese] like to wear clothes that make polyester stitching and buttons remain exceptions are Carlos Miele, who has a fl oor will be an offi ce. them stand out physically, to express their white, creating a special effect that differ- Manhattan store, and Osklen, which has a “Herchcovitch is hot in Japan because individuality. My collection’s strong color entiates them from other black shirts.” beachwear operation with fi ve European his unique prints and strong colors are palette and prints allow them to do so.” The fi rst Herchcovitch ready-to-wear stores.

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