City Scape NEW YORK — What’S Black and White and Sleek All Over? Karl Lagerfeld’S New Contemporary Line, Made up of Chic, Slim-Fitted Separates

UNGARO NEARS NEW DESIGNER/2 HOLIDAY’S RETAIL BLAHS/12 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • December 13, 2005• $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles City Scape NEW YORK — What’s black and white and sleek all over? Karl Lagerfeld’s new contemporary line, made up of chic, slim-fitted separates. The spring collection, which he will launch in March, will be carried exclusively at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. Here, from left, Karl Lagerfeld’s portrait T-shirt and jeans, and a poplin jacket, tank and jeans, all in cotton. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Chasing Tommy: Apax and PVH Said in Lead, but Price an Issue By Vicki M. Young As a result, the bidding, which that have popped up as contenders NEW YORK — Apax Partners LLC and was due to close on Friday, could in the bidding for Hilfiger. Both are Phillips-Van Heusen are said to be continue even beyond next week, financial players with large war the lead contenders in the bidding according to several sources in the chests. for Tommy Hilfiger Corp. But a price banking community. Sun Capital The current bid ranges between tag is proving difficult to nail down. and Perry Capital are other names See Tommy, Page 7 PHOTO BY ZACK SECKLER PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2005 WWD.COM Ungaro Said Close to Naming Designer By Miles Socha reached for comment on Monday. WWDTUESDAY It is understood Dundas will succeed Vincent Ready-to-Wear/Textiles PARIS — It looks like Emanuel Ungaro is zero- Darre, who has had an uneven stint at a house ing in on its newest designer. known for opulent femininity, florals and polka- FASHION According to a Milan source, Peter Dundas, dot prints and the color fuchsia. Even though Karl Lagerfeld’s desk and chairs haven’t arrived in his West currently a member of the design team at Roberto Dundas would be the third Ungaro designer 6 26th Street office, he’s having no problems settling into his New York digs. Cavalli, is in talks to join the Paris-based house, recruited from an Italian brand. He came from which San Francisco entrepreneur Asim Abdullah Moschino, and his predecessor, Giambattista bought last month from Gruppo Ferragamo. Valli, had worked at Roberto Capucci, Fendi and GENERAL Dundas, a Norwegian whose résumé in- Krizia. Apax Partners, in partnership with Phillips-Van Heusen, is in the lead in the cludes stints at Christian Lacroix and Jean Paul While new to the fashion business, Abdullah 1 bid for Tommy Hilfiger Corp., but the process is said to be “fluid.” Gaultier in Paris, is said to have helped rev up has said he plans to invest in Ungaro and lever- New York Mayor Michael Bloomberg unveiled an initiative to give the the Cavalli brand in recent years with his de- age its rich history and brand awareness — per- 2 Garment Industry Development Corp. a shot in the arm. tailed and glamorous designs. haps even return to the couture runway. Ungaro, Reached by WWD, Dundas declined all who founded the couture house in 1965, left high BEAUTY: Gurwitch Products, which makes and markets Laura Mercier comment. Ungaro officials could not be fashion behind last year. 3 Cosmetics, has hired Financo to advise in a recapitalization or sale. Gianfranco Ferré is aiming for profitability by expanding into daywear and 3 seeking licensing deals in jewelry and home furnishings. TEXTILES: Research and innovation are key to combating counterfeiters, 9 said attendees at a symposium on protecting intellectual property. Bloomberg, Klum in Pitch to Help Industry Retailers have nothing to rave about so far this holiday season, with traffic 12 generally ho-hum and no hot gift items emerging on the fashion front. NEW YORK — With Heidi Klum garment workers. Heidi of “Project Runway” at his Bloomberg said at a press Klum elbow, Mayor Michael Bloom- conference at Parsons the New EYE berg gave the designer reality School for Design that he was EYE: “There are so many trains in here, I feel like I’m underground,” said show a plug Monday and un- pleased that “Project Runway” 4 Richard Sinnott as he surveyed the elegantly attired crush at the Neue Galerie. veiled an initiative to give the highlights “our city’s superior Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 city’s Garment Industry Develop- [$35 billion] garment industry ment Corp. a shot in the arm. and that the show is giving back To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Dresses designed by contest- to the community.” Full Picture, [email protected], using the individual’s name. ants will be auctioned at projec- the show’s executive producer, WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. 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MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Tel: (212) 594-0570 Fax: (212) 695-0265 Email:[email protected] ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. first stint here in the colder-than- usual winter of 1993, when she lived in an “awful, awful” unheat- ed East Village apartment with two other equally ambitious but In Brief & 7 ( 7 & $ / 7 & unemployed models. $ ( / & $7 / Needless to say, things picked ● INTERESTED IN SELLING TO WAL-MART? Wal-Mart Stores / 7 $7 (& ( / & $7 & $ / 7 $7 (& ( &/ up substantially. Now strangers Inc. is sponsoring a daylong seminar on Dec. 15 aimed at minori- &/ (& $& / 7 7 $ $7 ( /$ ( 7 &/( (&/$ $&/ / 7 (& routinely stop Klum in Starbuck’s ty-owned vendors from New York who are interested in becom- 7 $ ( 7 / 2 &$ $ 7 / 7 $7(& (& ( ( / &/ $ $ or on the street to talk about the ing suppliers for the retailer. Copresented with the Asian (& $ / 7 7 $7 $7(& ( &/ &/ &/ (&$ $ / / 7 7 $ ( ( 7 latest escapades on “Project American Federation of New York, the seminar will take place ( 7 ( &/(&/$7(& (&$ /$ / 7 7 $ 7 $ (/ / & & ($ $ / Runway.” She said she sometimes from 9:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. at Waitex International, 135 West 36th $ / $7 7(& ( ( /// / & $ / & $7 $/6$ $7 (&,&(& (& ( / comes up with ideas for the pro- Street, second floor. One-on-one meetings with Wal-Mart repre- ( / &$77$, 7/ 7;7( 7 $7 (& $7 (& ( / /,&7$(77 $( / 7 $7gram’s challenges while in the sentatives will take place from 1 to 3 p.m. Wal-Mart works with / 7 & / / & / 7 $ ( & & ( 70 /$ & shower or lying in bed. Just back about 2,600 New York companies and is looking to diversify its /$ &/ 7 ( ( 7 & ( & ( %2'<&$5(/$ $7 7 /$ ( 7 / from a six-week run in Düsseldorf supplier base. The discounter spends more than $11 billion a ( 7 & / /$ & 7 /$ (& /$ ( (& & ( /$ & 7 where she hosts “Top Model,” year in general supplier activity in the state of New York, of & 1$ 7 /"7 Ê-"( 7 Ê& /Ê , -( /$ &/ ( / $ $7 /$ ( $7 & ( Klum, a mother of two under the which roughly $200 million goes to 222 businesses owned by mi- (& &/ / & $7 / ( 7 7 7/Ê1/1,-/ Ê/, ( (& ( / ( -Ê/"7, & $7 /$ ( age of two, also designs a signa- norities and women. Wal-Mart has 5,500 suppliers owned by mi- 7 7 $7 (& / & $7 ture collection for Birkenstock norities and women nationwide, and spends $2.8 billion with /$ $-*",/-Ê/ 7 Ê /6 7 ,$7 (& ( / & &/ (& $ / 7 $7 (& ( and jewelry for Mouwad. them annually. Participants must R.S.V.P. to 212-344-5878, ext. 24. ( ( 7 &/ (& $ / 7 $7 7 $ ( 7 &/ (& $ / 7 — Rosemary Feitelberg /$ 16ÊÊ*,"/ /"&/ 7 $ ÊÊUÊÊ "-/1, Ê* , ( 7 &/ (& $ ( /$ &/ 7 $ ( 7 / 7 &/ÊÊ / ,Ê( /$ Ê7 Ê , -&/ 7 $ (& 7 /$ ( 7 & ( /$ &/ 7 $ $7 /$ (9 ,Ê--1, 7 & ( /$ &/ / & $7 /$ ( 7 & ( / Correction & ( / & $7 /$ ( 7 & $7 (& ( / & $7 /$ ( Marc Jacobs will reprise his fall 2006 Louis Vuitton collection next / 7ÜÊ ÕÃÊvÀÊ ÕÃÌÊ`iÛi«iÌ $7 (& ( / & $7 / & $ / 7 $7 (& ( / & summer in Tokyo. This was incorrect in a story Monday, page 24. &/ -ÌVÊ >ÃVÊ>`Ê/iV V>ÊÌÊ>LÀVÃ(& $ / 7 $7 (& ( ( 7 &/ (& $ / 7 $7 ( $"vvÊ- ÀiÊ>ÀiÌÊ*>V>}iÃÊÛ>>Li( 7 &/ (& $ / 7 &/ 7 $ ( 7 &/ (& $ ( /$ &/ 7 $ ( 7 / (& & ( /$ &/ 7 $ (& 7 /RV$QJHOHV( 7 Ó£ÎÈÓ{ÓÈÎÎ& ( /$1HZ

NEW YORK — Gurwitch Products, which pro- Beyoncé For Return to Black duces and markets high-end cosmetics under the Knowles Laura Mercier Cosmetics and Skincare line, has By Amanda Kaiser Massimo hired Financo Inc. as financial adviser to assist Macchi in a recapitalization or sale of the company. MILAN — Gianfranco Ferré is try- “We are reviewing many global opportunities ing to return to profitability by to continue to grow our business,” said Janet broadening its collection into day- Gurwitch, chief executive officer of Gurwitch wear, seeking lucrative licensing Products, in a statement. deals in jewelry and home furnish- “My board and I believe we should explore all ings and a more competitive pric- of the options available to maximize our poten- ing strategy. tial,” she added. “It’s not that we are relaunch- While strategic alternatives could include a ing, but rather realigning the recapitalization or possible sale, there are no as- Ferré brand to a more dynamic, surances there will be a transaction. fresh approach,” chief executive Since its founding in 1995, Gurwitch Products officer Massimo Macchi said in LLC has grown into a company that produces an interview, praising the design and markets Laura Mercier cosmetics, skin care, talent of Gianfranco Ferré and bath and body and fragrance. The Laura Mercier stressing the importance of the brand is believed to generate between $60 mil- designer’s creative autonomy lion and $90 million in annual volume, according and control. “Next year we will to a market source. The products are sold in have a more competitive collec- more than 400 points of sale in 22 countries. tion in terms of price, quality and “We believe that Janet Gurwitch and her team design content.” have put together a global brand. This is a luxury, Manufacturing group IT Hold- high-end brand, which we believe will be very at- ing’s parent company GTP bought tractive to both strategic as well as financial part- control of Ferré in 2000. It was ners,” said Gilbert Harrison, chairman of Financo. one of several IT Holding acquisi- One financial source who specializes in track- tions that racked up considerable debt for the company, which made ing luxury brands observed: “Some of the strate- its name in fashion as a licensee for designer diffusion lines such as gic players that are considered buyers include D&G, Versus and Just Cavalli. Despite efforts to grow the brand, L’ Oréal, Shiseido, Estée Lauder, Clarins and Ferré has yet to break even. Elizabeth Arden. Also included as possible buyers Getting Ferré back on track is a priority for IT Holding, which is are LVMH [Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton], losing two of its key licensees. Dolce & Gabbana announced this year Chanel, Yves Rocher, Limited Brands and Sisley.” that it is taking production of its diffusion line D&G in-house, begin- The Laura Mercier business is 51 percent ning with the spring-summer 2007 season. And Versace isn’t renewing owned by The Neiman Marcus Group. The chain its contract with IT Holding for the manufacturing and distribution of also has put its Kate Spade unit up for sale. Versus. IT Holding stresses that its relationship with Versace will — Vicki M. Young and David Moin continue as it still holds licenses for the Versace Jeans Couture and Versace Sport collections. her carry-on belongings. Macchi said that Ferré sales will grow 10 percent to 121 million She said the one thing she wished she could euros, or $142 million at current exchange rates, in 2005 and another Beyoncé Visits Robinsons-May have worn was a pair of jeans from The House of 13 percent in 2006. He stopped short of forecasting a profitability tar- LOS ANGELES — A crowded department store, Deréon, her clothing line. “I love the jeans. I get, saying that 2006 will close with “positive results.” Ferré’s sales plenty of pushing and shoving and a virtual wear them every day. I worked on those so hard.” exclude revenue from diffusion line GF Ferré’s accessories business, river of tears. What may sound like the quintes- While her “elegant” line, which she code- which is organized under a separate umbrella of IT Holding. sential holiday shopping experience was actual- signed with her mom, Tina, will be launched in Macchi outlined a series of growth priorities: The first is expand- ly an appearance by Beyoncé Knowles at the February, the budding designer might wait until ing the size of the signature Gianfranco Ferré collection into more Robinsons-May Lakewood Center store Sunday the end of next year to show the collection in wearable, affordable and less complicated pieces. One of the afternoon. New York. “It’s a lot of work, and I don’t know if brand’s hurdles has been its extensive, almost couture-like detail- Knowles stopped by to promote her second we have time,” she said. ing and focus on eveningwear. fragrance for Tommy Hilfiger, But, should she decide to Beginning with the fall-winter 2006 season, the companies will True Star Gold, resulting in all show, she already has a couple double the collection’s size with about 80 new pieces of straightfor- the commotion, as 3,000 fans BEAUTY BEAT of models in mind: her Des- ward daywear. They will cost about 35 to 40 percent less than the tried to catch a glimpse — or, tiny’s Child bandmates Kelly rest of the signature collection, will bear an ivory label and some better yet, a photo — of the superstar. Rowland and Michelle Williams. “Oh, I would will be incorporated into the men’s runway show in January and the Those who were among the first to obtain love to [have them model],” she said. “They did women’s runway show in February. Macchi emphasized these new Knowles’ autograph had lined up outside the [model her clothing line] on Oprah, and they items aren’t a separate subbrand, but rather a complement to the store at 4 a.m. alongside hundreds of crazed fans were fierce!” main Gianfranco Ferré black label collection. who purchased the sweet, floral fragrance. As Now, Knowles, who appears in the upcoming “It’s a new component of Gianfranco Ferré, it’s more prêt-à- tearful as a number of attendees were, Knowles, “Pink Panther” film, is ready to show off moves porter as opposed to couture. It’s based on the same themes, the heavily protected from the riled-up crowd by her of her own with her triple-threat role in the mu- same color palette,” Macchi said. “We would never do clothes of a massive security guard, named Shorty, said sical “Dreamgirls,” for which she started re- lower quality but [for ivory label items] we can use simpler materi- meeting fans left her emotional, too. hearsing a month ago. als and manufacturing methods." “I don’t care how tired you are, something “The clothes and the lashes and the hair and The ivory label is one of several Macchi-initiated projects intended happens and you just want them to know how everything is going to be so amazing,” said to boost Gianfranco Ferré’s profile and widen its customer base on the much you appreciate [their support],” she said. Knowles, who listed Roberto Cavalli, Yves Saint higher and lower ends of the market. These plans include rounding “People are so sincere.” Laurent, Alexander McQueen and Marni as her out the accessories collection, launching a men’s fragrance next year The same could be said for Knowles, who favorite designers. But, she continued, more im- and a home collection, as well as branching out into jewelry. signed autographs for more than an hour, and — portantly, “For the first time, I’m like, ‘Wow.’ I Diffusion line GF Ferré has already diversified into watches despite a last-minute fashion crisis of lost lug- get to really act and play a real character and be through a licensing pact with Global Watch Industries. The first time- gage — looked casually chic in a brown embel- funny and be sad and be vulnerable. So I’m pieces bowed at April’s Baselworld exhibition. Distribution is limited lished tunic with jeans and a pair of chocolate- happy.” to Italy and the Middle East, but there are plans to broaden it to other colored Louis Vuitton pumps that were among — Jenny Sundel European countries next year. Macchi said that a Gianfranco Ferré- branded watch could also be in the works in the future. Macchi, a former Bulgari executive, is also thinking jewelry. During the next six months, he hopes to sign licensing deals for both luxury jewelry bearing the Gianfranco Ferré label and a younger-spirited costume jewelry line for GF Ferré. Macchi de- Claiborne Takes Step Toward J. Jill Acquisition clined to identify potential licensees, but he said that the company may be able to find a single partner to produce both the high-end NEW YORK — Liz Claiborne Inc. could be a step commence shortly. and low-end jewelry collections. A licensing deal for a home collec- closer to adding the J. Jill Group to its portfolio As reported, Claiborne and J. Jill, the $450 tion is another goal for the next six months, Macchi said. of brands. million multichannel specialty retailer of On the retail front, Ferré is to roll out a new store concept early next Claiborne has entered a confidentiality agree- women’s apparel, accessories and footwear, have year. Macchi declined to reveal any defining characteristics except to ment with J. Jill to allow its participation in J. Jill’s been in negotiations for about two years. Clai- say that Gianfranco Ferré himself, an architect by trade, has designed process of exploring its strategic alternatives, in- borne made an all-cash offer of $18 per share to the stores. The first will open next month in Florence. Boutiques in cluding a possible sale of J. Jill to Claiborne. purchase the troubled J. Jill operation on Nov. Beirut and on Paris’ Rue du Faubourg St.-Honoré, which will also fea- Executives at both firms declined to comment 12. Paul Charron, Claiborne’s chairman and ture the new concept, are to open early in 2006. Underlining the strate- further on the deal, but a press release stated chief executive officer, said he made his highest gic importance of Paris, a Ferré shop-in-shop is to open in the Galeries Claiborne expects the due diligence process to offer that day, but would bend it if necessary. Lafayette department store in the coming months. 4 WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2005 WWD.COM

Kerry Alixe Washington Boyer in in Paco Paco Flower Girls Rabanne. Rabanne at the NEW YORK — Was it Grand Central or Botanical was it the Neue Galerie? “There are Garden. so many trains in here, I feel like I’m underground,” announced eye® Michael Kors’ Richard Sinnott as he surveyed the elegantly attired crush at the museum on Thursday night. Indeed, he nearly trod on the flowing hemline of a dancing Lauren duPont’s floral Gucci gown. But the ever-graceful, always-chic socialite managed to keep on boogying among the Egon Schiele paintings. Along with Aerin and Jane Lauder, Renée Rockefeller and their friends, duPont was a chair of the event, now in its fourth incarnation. A crowd including Kelly Klein, Jennifer Creel, Jessica Seinfeld, Lisa Airan, Alexia Kondylis and designers Lauren Zac Posen, Behnaz Sarafpour, duPont in Alice Roi, Brian Reyes, Jack Gucci with McCollough and Lazaro Renée Hernandez all trekked uptown Rockefeller. for champagne, dessert and dancing in the elegant museum. One chairwoman, however, was unable to attend to her hostessing duties: Gwyneth Paltrow was stuck filming and missed the private Coralie Charriol in dinner the Lauders hosted before the doors were Calvin Klein Collection Ivanka flung open to the masses at 9 p.m. with Dennis Paul at Trump in “It’s just the perfect place for a party,” Aerin Neue. Paco Lauder proclaimed, as she was trailed by her father, Ronald, Rabanne. the museum’s founder, and her sister, Jane. “I love it here. It’s so elegant and so visual, with all the art.” Elegant indeed, and everyone was dressed to the hilt. Amanda Brooks was as pretty as a peacock in a feathered creation she had snagged from her mother’s closet, while Fabiola Beracasa donned a quarter-of-a-million Heather dollars’ worth of diamonds around her neck. “I Mnuchin in took it on the subway with me to get home,” said Oscar de la the jewelry maven. “I was so nervous.” Renta. The following evening, the blanket of snow on the ground fittingly transformed the New York Botanical Garden for its annual Winter Wonderland Ball. Inside, designer Bill Tansey swathed the tented dining room in a medley of silver hues — illuminated, spherical Japanese lanterns and crystal-encrusted centerpieces topped with a bouquet of enormous snowy, Amanda feather plumes. The evening’s dress code called Brooks in for winter whites, blues, metallics and kimonos. vintage. Actress Kerry Washington opted for black as she will don white soon enough for her upcoming wedding to longtime sweetheart David Moscow. “I’m wearing my mother’s dress that my Lily Atherton grandmother made,” inin DiorDior atat thethe enthused Washington. Botanical Roopal Patel Another nascent bride-to- Garden. inin PeterPeter SomSom be in the crowd was Lara at Neue. Meiland, who got engaged to Claude Shaw the weekend before in Paris. “I’ve been drinking only champagne all week.” Many of the chicest ladies in the room — including Karolina Kurkova, Lauren Davis, Ivanka Trump and duPont — chose frocks by one of the night’s sponsors, Paco Rabanne. “My daughter told me she liked my tutu,” duPont laughed about her pink mini bubble skirt. But one social’s fairy-tale evening was cut short by a competing fete. “Our friend is having a party tonight at La Esquina,” said Heather Virginia Smith Lazaro Mnuchin. “My husband and Karolina and Patrick Hernandez I have jeans in the back of Kurkova in Robinson at and Liya our car so we can change Paco the Botanical Kebede. before we get there.” Rabanne. Garden. PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY Access All The Day’s Fashion News Anytime, Anywhere!

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Get one year of wwd.com for only $99. To Subscribe, go to wwd.com/subscribe 6 WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2005 Made in Man By Marc Karimzadeh A cotton T-shirt and NEW YORK — Even though Karl Lagerfeld’s own choice of desk and chairs have yet to arrive in his linen skirt and a West 26th Street office, the designer seems to have had no problems settling into his new Manhattan metallic blazer, environs. T-shirt and denim The sleek, 20,000-square-foot space has polished concrete floors and white walls and comes re- jeans, all in cotton. plete with a photo studio, where Lagerfeld already has been hard at work. The offices are also bustling with ubercool Lagerfeld staffers, like stylist Melanie Ward, who is the creative director of the contemporary Karl Lagerfeld collection. “There’s energy in New York,” Lagerfeld said, sitting in his studio. “The other day, we did photos inspired by James Dean. It wouldn’t have been the same in Europe, even if it was done in a room with a white wall. A white wall in New York is not a white wall in Paris because there’s not the same energy.” Gotham is taking on a special meaning for the designer, and the city is informing his work, from the new Karl Lagerfeld venture, which is owned by Tommy Hilfiger Corp., to Chanel’s Paris-New York collection that he presented here last week. “I discovered something very strange: I have nearly more friends in New York than in Paris. I love Paris, but it’s a little bit provincial,” he added. “It’s nice to go to a little province town. It’s charming, but I think there is something in the air in New York.” Since the formation of the Karl Lagerfeld venture, executives have been working on rebranding Lagerfeld Gallery, which he has presented in Paris to date, and creating a brand language for Karl Lagerfeld, the contemporary line that will officially bow during New York Fashion Week in February for fall selling. Customers will get a glimpse of the new Karl Lagerfeld collection in March, when a limited-edition capsule group is being launched exclusively at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. “We were talking about the launch being in fall, and Karl was thinking it doesn’t have to take that long,” said Ann Acierno, president of Karl Lagerfeld. “I got the sketches in 48 hours from him. We presented it to Neiman’s and Bergdorf ’s, and they took it right on the spot.” The capsule features such looks as low-rise, screen-print and laser-cut jeans, logo T-shirts and tank tops and silk georgette dresses, as well as T-shirts that state “Love, Karl” or portrait T-shirts of Lagerfeld’s face or silhouette. Beginning with the fall 2006 collection, Lagerfeld Gallery will be renamed and marketed as Lagerfeld Collection. It will now sport an Art Deco-like logo with a sleek ‘L’ encased in a vertical rectangle. “Lagerfeld Gallery in Paris was supposed to be my world in my Gallery on the Rue de Seine,” Lagerfeld said. “I wanted to do something intimate in Paris, but now it’s something bigger.” Lagerfeld Collection and Karl Lagerfeld will be officially launched simultaneously with a runway show on Feb. 10 at 8 p.m. That slot caps fashion week and has become quite high-profile in the past two seasons, when it was used by Jennifer Lopez and Gwen Stefani. The fashion show will take place in a West 26th Street space near Lagerfeld’s offices that was for- merly Annie Leibovitz’s studio. It is now the home of contemporary ballet group Cedar Lake. “There was a moment when I was over at the place to buy it,” Lagerfeld recalled. “But then it was just for a studio, it was before this venture. I was not crazy for a studio on the ground floor.” Combining both collections on the runway was a strategic move for Lagerfeld, who said this only serves to underscore how people dress today. “Today, it’s all about mixing,” he said. “It’s like when you wear jeans with something more expen- sive. The total look is a little different. That’s why I like to mix four labels in one editorial shoot. Some designers hate that because they want their line to stay pure, but to me, that is absolutely not inspiring. You learn when what you did is used and integrated into life.” Acierno added: “The spirit of both of the lines is really similar. Although they are very different in terms of a more sophisticated design and fabric, they are really part of the same family, like brothers and sisters.” On the day of the interview late last week, Lagerfeld sported a mix and match of labels, including a Karl Lagerfeld T-shirt, a Mastermind jacket, Agatha jeans and Causse gloves. “Even if I can make everything I want, I like to mix. After all, I am a stylist. I wear 10 labels at the same time,” Lagerfeld said. Lagerfeld didn’t define the target client for either collection. “This is a question I never answer because we propose,” he said. “This is for whoever likes, whoever wants, whoever can identify with it. There was once a designer in Paris who said, ‘My dresses are only for intelligent women.’ She went out of business, so maybe there were only idiots. In fact, it was not clever for her to say that. I design for the people who like. There is no age group because age group is a racism in a way, too.” That said, don’t expect to see Lagerfeld in one of the T-shirts featuring black-and-white Sixties shots of his own face. “It’s difficult to wear my own face with 40 years in between,” he said. “I don’t propose my own face. If they think it’s fun, we can do it.” The long-term business plan is to build Karl Lagerfeld into a full business, and the fall launch is expected to have about 150 to 200 styles for women’s and the same amount for men’s. In terms of sales, women’s is expected to account for about 70 percent, while men’s will account for the remainder. Forty percent of the business is expected to emanate from Europe, 40 percent from the U.S. and the rest from Asia. The company plans to sign licenses for both Karl Lagerfeld and Lagerfeld Collection for such classifications and categories as watches, eyewear, jewelry, handbags, shoes and fragrance. “All of that is in play,” Acierno said. For fall, Karl Lagerfeld will have suggested retail price points from $95 for T-shirts to about $995 for outerwear. By comparison, Lagerfeld Collection retails from $197 for T-shirts to $2,630 for an evening dress. Thirty-five percent of business will be in wholesale, 45 percent in retail and licensing revenue will account for the rest. The plan is to start opening Karl Lagerfeld stores in 18 months, starting with a location in New York and then potential units in Los Angeles, Florida and Texas. “We are working on the aesthetic of the stores right now,” Acierno said. “It will be similar in feeling to this space here, but with appropriate selling features.” Karl Lagerfeld targets contemporary areas in department and specialty stores, while Lagerfeld Collection is more specialty-store driven and Europe-based. Acierno said she anticipates a Lagerfeld Collection men’s launch for spring 2007 or fall 2007. She declined to give sales projections for Karl Lagerfeld and Lagerfeld Collection. Now that Lagerfeld has Chanel in Paris, Fendi in Rome and Karl Lagerfeld in New York, his circle seems complete. “That’s enough,” he said. “But I like that they are different parts of the world. I think for the Paris team, it’s good to have something in New York. I think it’s much more inspiring. It’s more modern. And it doesn’t take that long to go to New York. It’s not the day of the Cunard line anymore when it took five days to get here.” WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2005 7 WWD.COM Tommy Bidding Heats Up

Continued from page one Tommy Hilfiger $1.68 billion and $1.78 billion, which is below the $2 billion the Tommy Hilfiger board is said to want, according to financial sources. Officials at Tommy Hilfiger declined comment Monday. nhattan The nature of the bidding process Karl Lagerfeld’s is driven by several factors, including self-portrait, the potential to hook up sourcing and photographed in his licensing deals as well as financing New York studio an acquisition. One financial source exclusively for WWD. said, “The whole thing is a moving target, with multiple parts. Just because Apax is in the lead now does- n’t mean it will remain in the lead at the end of the day when bids are finally submitted.” Another financial source said, “The process is very fluid. It all changes each minute.” Still, financial sources said the bidding is likely to be locked in a specific range. Banking sources said the players are looking at a price tag of $15.50 to $16 per share, which excludes $177 million in cash that Tommy Hilfiger Corp. has on its books. Sources also said there’s a possibility that potential financial buyers are acting like “Scrooge,” unwilling to stretch to a price tag of $17 per share. Shares of Tommy Hilfiger closed Monday at $17.75. One banker involved in the bidding said Tommy Hilfiger Corp. will not accept less than its market capitaliza- tion value. Monday’s close at $17.75 per share pegs the market cap at $1.64 billion. At a $16-a-share bid, the purchase price would be $1.5 billion. When including the $177 million in cash, the total purchase price would be $1.68 billion. Since a buyer would keep the cash, and use it to finance the purchase, the effective price tag is $1.5 billion. That $1.5 billion is far below the $2.1 billion the company and some bankers thought it might get when the story of the sale first broke on WWD’s Web site on Aug. 17. Another financial source expects the $1.68 billion price tag would be an opening bid, and that a small bidding war would follow, ending when someone agrees to a price of at least $1.78 billion. Such a price tag presumes a per share price of $18.90, including the cash component. Since the buyer would be keeping the cash to finance the purchase, its real per share cost would be around $17. Sun Capital has surfaced on and off in the past year as a possible acquirer of A silk A silk Boscov’s, a privately held regional department store with most of its stores in georgette georgette top Pennsylvania. A source close to the bidding process speculated that Sun Capital dress. and cotton might elect to pull out of the chase for Hilfiger should the price tag surpass the denim jeans. $16.50-per-share range, an amount that includes the cash on the balance sheet. Perry Capital bought Capital Factors in April. Richard Perry, Perry’s co-founder, joined the Sears Holdings board in September. One source said Perry’s presence on the Sears board might present a potential conflict of interest for Tommy Hilfiger since there is the risk a new owner might place a limit on where Hilfiger products would be sold. Regarding the role of strategic players like Phillips-Van Heusen working with Apax, the post-deal picture focuses on who would oversee the operational aspects of Hilfiger, sources said. PVH would run the Hilfiger operation and, given its experience with outlet stores, could handle the Hilfiger units as well. But if it were to oper- ate Hilfiger’s outlet stores, too, it is likely to garner a sizeable equity stake in the designer company should Apax be successful in its bid. Apax Partners is the private equity firm that helped PVH acquire Calvin Klein and also has invested in Spyder Active Sports. Apax’s investment in PVH was $250 million. Based in New York, Apax Partners’ funds have raised about $20 billion around the world. Typically, it makes investments of between $50 million and $300 million. Regarding brand marketer and sourcing specialist Li & Fung as a possible acquirer, that scenario is seen as unlikely. A source close to Li & Fung said, “An acquisition of the Tommy Hilfiger brand would not be consistent with Li & Fung’s corporate strategy. However, the company is always interested in evaluating sourcing opportunities that might arise from such situations.” Li & Fung’s strategy is on building brands and adding value services based on the company’s expertise in certain areas, such as sourcing. The company is not expected to be in an acquisition mode for at least another five years, according to a source close to the company. And while published reports have Li & Fung involved in a bid for Hilfiger with a financial player, the company’s role would be limited to sourcing, such as working with a licensing firm while financial players have ownership of the company. Regarding designer Tommy Hilfiger’s employment contract, sources said it would be bought out for $150 million. It’s unclear if Hilfiger would have a role in the acquired company or just collect a percentage on sales of branded goods, as in his current employment contract. Hilfiger’s current agreement pays him between $14 million and $18 million a year. Tommy Hilfiger Corp. filed its amended annual report Nov. 18 for the fiscal year ended March 31. Net income dropped 34.5 percent to $85.7 million, or 93 cents a share, from $130.8 million, or $1.43 a share, a year ago. Total revenue fell to $1.78 billion from $1.87 billion in 2004. U.S. wholesale revenue dropped to $679 million from $959 million. PHOTOS BY ZACK SECKLER PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2005 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report Class Matters: NYU Tackles the Sexes

By Venessa Lau MICHAEL VOLLBRACHT AND KEAN ETRO EMANUEL UNGARO AND ZAC POSEN Michael Vollbracht revealed at least two things about On the age-old question of whether fashion is art, NEW YORK — Men are from Mars, women are from himself in his talk at the New York Academy of Medicine. Emanuel Ungaro is a man who knows where he stands. Venus, as the popular saying goes, but what about when One: Kismet has handed him a heavy dose of coinci- “Fashion is not art,” he said firmly. “It’s just a craft, an it comes to dandy dressing, runway androgyny and a cer- dences revolving around the letter B. Geoffrey Beene, appliqué. Even though we work with imagination, poet- tain Helmut Newton photograph of an oh-so-sexy model Donald Brooks, Henri Bendel and Bloomingdale’s were ry, inspirations and so on — that is not enough.” tailored up to the nines? Where do the sexes stand then? just a few of Vollbracht’s employers leading up to his cur- Still, don’t think Ungaro is a designer for whom fash- These were the questions behind the seventh annual ion is all commerce, all the time. There’s nothing the 72- New York University fashion conference, the first week Michael Vollbracht year-old dislikes more in the industry than pushing for in December, titled “Dressing the Part: The Masculine the bottom line, the sway of marketing and couture “just and Feminine in Fashion.” Speakers at the two-day for the publicity, to sell lotions and handbags and shoes event included Grace Mirabella, Francine du Plessix — not to dress a woman.” The difference, then, between Gray, accessories designers Richard Lambertson and the two? “Couture is what we find beautiful today but John Truex and Dutchman Koos van den Akker, who will be old tomorrow,” he said. “Art is beautiful today showed slides of male models, friends and celebrities and fantastic tomorrow.” wearing his signature patchwork sweaters. Dressed in head-to-toe black, save for a single pink “What is men’s is not very different from what is handkerchief in his left breast pocket, Ungaro peppered women’s,” he said, nodding to the kaleidoscopic designs his talk with anecdotes of the old guard, like Balenciaga, on a large screen overhead. “It’s just a feeling, you know. Chanel and Dior. Asked to comment on his opinion of his In the 1700s, men were beautifully dressed up, far more successors at the house of Emanuel Ungaro, he would than women. They were peacocks, as they should be.” only say, “I have no right to judge them, as I think they Designers Emanuel Ungaro, Michael Vollbracht and have no right to judge me.” Zac Posen, as well as style maven Iris Barrel Apfel, Presenting a very different view of fashion was New weighed in on the conference’s topic, as well as their York designer Zac Posen, who had a vision for a “luxury vision of fashion today. brand in the United States,” and who, three years into his business, found a financial backer in Sean “Diddy” IRIS BARREL APFEL Combs. As for that talk of fashion and art, Posen men- At first glance, Scheherazade and Apfel have little in tioned the stint he did at the Costume Institute, working common. After all, what does a woman currently being with former curator Richard Martin. “For the first time, celebrated at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume I was really challenged into thinking that fashion is an Institute for her kooky and eclectic style have to do with art form,” he said. “It challenged my understanding of a Persian seductress of medieval Middle Eastern litera- what the purpose of fashion could be.” ture? To those who attended the Q&A session with Apfel Kean Etro Speaking at the conference on “Strong Femininity,” and MET research associate Stéphane Houy-Towner, Posen discussed his early relationship with the art world however, the similarities were clear — this is a woman (his father is painter Stephen Posen) and the influence of with a knack for storytelling. the many women in his life, from his mother and sister, partners at his design house today, to model Naomi Iris Barrel Apfel Campbell, whom he met through Azzedine Alaïa when he was a student in Paris. “She taught me how to fit,” he said. “Naomi came to my apartment and taught me the secrets of how she moved her body to make clothing fit better.” His closing words of advice for students? “People are always hungry for the new, for things that are individual and have a rarity to them,” he said, adding, “Rarity for me is what nowadays defines luxury in the worlds of H&Ms — which I like to call Hervé Michel, couture for interns.”

Emanuel Ungaro

rent gig as creative director of Bill Blass. Two: He’s a designer with a lot to get off his chest. “I will probably get myself into serious problems with the New York press,” he began, “because I would like to take a little bit of issue with you. My kudos have only been outside New York City. The press [here] do not like what I do at Bill Blass.” But Vollbracht, there to discuss “Marketing Style,” had a point. “Know thy customer,” he said, passing along a word of advice to would-be designers in the audience. “I don’t do fashionable clothes, but I do clothes that relate to the Bill Blass customer. Zac Posen Apfel recounted the time in the late Fifties she “Fashion is changing. I am in an industry that makes stopped traffic in the City of Light. Eyeing a photogra- dress-up for young girls,” he continued. “The New York pher who was “carrying equipment in one hand and a press doesn’t like me, but what I do have is that the con- gray Mongolian lamb coat in the other,” she jumped out sumer likes me, because we give her clothes that fit her of her car and followed him all the way to Lanvin’s stu- lifestyle.” dio. “I thought [the coat] was just the most smashing In stark contrast to Vollbracht and his austere vision thing I ever saw,” the Queens native recalled. “It turns for fashion was Etro men’s collection designer Kean out he had just shot the press releases and was going to Etro, wearing a bright green coat that contrasted with give it back to the couture department for their show Vollbracht’s conservative gray suit. Speaking at the con- that night. I told them, ‘I have to have that coat; you’ve ference on “Wit, Whimsy and Tradition,” the son of got to sell it to me.’ ” And she got it. founder Gimmo Etro traced his own history at the 37- As slides of oversize chained necklaces appeared year-old house—from intern in 1982 to creative director behind her, she matter-of-factly noted, “That was worn for men’s. “When you have these family companies, the by a little white horse at a South Indian wedding. And question is how they really achieve success,” he said, this, this belonged to a cow. I don’t care what it is,” she “because most of the time, it’s just lip service. [The next explained. “If I like it, what difference does it make?” generations] are just there to heat up the chair. If the 84-year-old had one complaint about the indus- “We’ve been lucky,” Kean said of his brothers and sis- try today, it was that “there’s too much sameness. ter Veronica, who designs the women’s collection. “We’re Everybody has the same thing. Not that it isn’t beautiful, talented and we keep a strong identity. What we’re doing but after a while, it gets boring.” is new tradition.” PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN AND ZACK SECKLER KYLE PHOTOS BY WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2005 9 WWD.COM Te x t i l e & Tr ade Report IP Conference Stresses Counterfeit Strategies

By Luisa Zargani Claudio Scajola urged the Italian fashion ices offered by a business.” industry to produce unique products. Zegna’s Donati noted that the company has CASERTA, Italy — Research and innovation are registered the family’s name and label around essential to combat apparel counterfeiters, the world in characters different from the Latin experts said during an international symposium ones, respecting the phonetics as much as possi- on protecting intellectual property in the fash- ble, to further protect the brand. ion industry. Stefano Artuso, head of Benetton Group’s The two-day convention that ended here Dec. legal department, said the company has regis- 1 was organized by Italy’s Ministry of Productive tered about 5,000 brands. During his presenta- Activities, the World Intellectual Property tion, Artuso showed slides of the more bizarre Organization and Italy’s Institute for Industrial counterfeits the company had seized, including Promotion. It drew officials from many develop- “United Colors of the T-shirt” T-shirts and ing countries. “United Colors of Bay Club” backpacks. “[Fashion] companies sometimes feel alone “We have even registered the green rectangle and unprotected, especially abroad,” said as a brand, as this is also regularly copied,” said Vittorio Donati, director of the intellectual Artuso. property department at Ermenegildo Zegna Donati said Zegna invests in protection de- Holditalia. “Therefore, it’s important to know pending on its expansion plans and where coun- that there are contacts to be made and that syn- terfeiting is more dangerous. ergies between the industry and the institutions “In particular, what really upsets us is a well- can be created.” made counterfeit that ends up in large distribu- Donati said Zegna files about 100 legal action channels,” he said. tions against counterfeiters every year. Massimiliano Caforio, a lawyer from the legal “Ties are the most copied items, as they are the simplest to counterfeit,” he said. department of Gianni Versace SpA, said Versace is still battling with a franchisee in Claudio Scajola, Italy’s minister of productive activities, said protecting intellectu- Dubai, where the legislation is making it difficult to sever ties with a former partner al property should be an integral part of a company’s expansion strategy as well as a and take back control over the brand. defensive tool. Jinyan Cao, deputy director general at China’s intellectual property development “Even in traditional sectors, such as textile and ready-to-wear, there are tremen- research center of the state intellectual property office, said the Chinese are begin- dous technological developments and innovation,” Scajola said. “As our cost of labor ning to recognize the need for protection. is not competitive, our products must be technological and unique to maintain our “It’s a complicated situation,” Cao said. “We need to start a dialogue with companies leadership even in more traditional industries.” that have experience in this. [The] Chinese invest little in innovation. It’s easier to The Italian government is working on simpler and speedier legislation for the pro- make low-level products, but the advantage of low labor cost is starting to dwindle.” tection of intellectual property, setting up an anticounterfeiting commission, collabo- Accordingly, last August the country organized an expo in Shanghai addressing the rating with other countries on IP matters and investing in marketing to educate the issue and wrote up a declaration on intellectual property abiding by international public about counterfeits, Scajola said. New legislation allows the government to fine regulations. consumers who are caught buying counterfeit goods. “Many companies in China don’t know how to protect intellectual property,” Cao “Prevention is the only cure,” said Guriqbal Singh Jaiya, director of the small and said. “Fashion has a very short life cycle, we must all register very quickly.” medium-sized enterprises division at Geneva-based WIPO. “In today’s economy, the Many convention participants expressed pleasure at the event’s timing and con- focus is on knowledge, useful information that is intangible and information as prop- tent. Neda Matijevic, Croatia’s minister of economy, said she planned to organize a erty, but also public good,” said Jaiya, noting how more than 80 percent of Microsoft’s series of similar seminars on the subject. market value derives from intangible assets: “What is a brand? The intangible but “My government is starting to support the textile industry and we are working on a real value of words, graphics or symbols that are associated with the products or serv- national intellectual property strategy this year,” she said. SWATCHES Wool Industry Looks to Boost Image Textile supershow Unica is set to take the cream of its trade show trends on the road. By Stephanie Epiro launching a series of ad- Last season, textile shows Ideabiella, vertisements promoting Ideacomo, Shirt Avenue and ModaIn joined MILAN — Wool is losing its wool next fall. together for the first edition of Unica. cachet with consumers, “It will be a pretty stan- Paolo Zegna, Milano Unica’s first presi- according to most of the dard approach, similar to dent, announced plans for the road show dur- 210 delegates at the Inter- what cotton also has done ing a news conference last week. The presen- national Wool Textile Orga- to promote its seal,” said tation will travel through Düsseldorf, London, nization’s Wool Forum in Brenda McGahan, execu- Paris, New York, Seoul and Shanghai, among Biella, Italy, last week. tive director of Woolmark. other cities, until the end of January 2006. The conference show- “The Woolmark logo is 41 “It’s an important moment to continue cased a test-marketing plan years old, so we need to with the success of Unica,” Zegna said. “We aimed at communicating, push it out there again.” want to show our ideas and enthusiasm for our reeducating and height- McGahan said wool has- textiles and the story behind them.” ening interest among con- n’t been marketed for more In addition, a new location was announced sumers about wool gar- than five years because for next February’s edition of the show, which ments. funds that paid for past will include Florentine textile fair Prato Expo More than two-thirds of campaigns were redirect- for the first time. members present supported into research and devel- Milano Unica will exhibit in Milan’s new ed the campaign, including opment of sheep farming. fairgrounds in Rho-Pero from Feb. 14-17, and representatives from Wool- Wool prices have reached a 50-year low. Some executives said do- organizers are expecting further increases in mark, the Biellese Indust- ing so was a mistake that numbers. rial Union and Australian cost the industry. More than 700 exhibitors will show at the Wool Innovation Ltd. Peng Yan Li, a delegate from the “To sell wool, essentially part of its cost is marketing and event, up from 609 at the inaugural edition. China Wool Textile Association, also backed the campaign. it is just as valid as shearing, transportation and breeding More than 30,000 people are expected to “That the Chinese delegate supported the marketing costs,” Borsetti said. attend, compared with 27,500 visitors in campaign is a superb message the conference was success- In a report submitted to the forum, Woolmark said the September. ful,” said Henrik Kuffner, IWTO general director. “We had price of top-quality wool was its lowest level in 50 years. Max Dubini, vice president of Milano tried hard to convince them.” Recent research by the association on 36,000 Australian Unica, said the organizers hope that Unica’s Other executives were equally pleased. wool growers found that 92 percent favored a marketing new location in Rho-Pero would be a tempo- “Everyone has been reluctant about this campaign, but campaign. rary home. the facts are, if we don’t do promotion we won’t make Australian sheep farmers aren’t expected to pay all of “We want to move back here in the fall money,” said Piergiacomo Borsetti, an Italian delegate for the $7 million to complete the project. A portion of fund- [2006] to the Milan city fairgrounds because the forum and board member of the Biellese Industrial ing is anticipated from other wool-producing countries, we want Unica to be a Milan-based show — Union. including South Africa, New Zealand and Argentina, as it’s more convenient for our visitors and it links Woolmark is leading the $7 million marketing effort well as end-product manufacturers from Spain, Germany us with the strong face of fashion this city aimed exclusively at the U.S. market, and anticipates and China. already has,” said Dubini. PHOTO BY WOOL SCHIAVELLA/LANDOV; EPA/DANILO BY ROBERT GARVEY/CORBIS 10 WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2005 WWD.COM Outerwear Report Harvé Bernard’s polyester and nylon jacket. Tu r ning Pale Carlo Teso NEW YORK — This spring’s coats and jackets mix a cool pastel palette with just enough warmth for the season. The newest looks come in the form of safari shapes with quilted fabrics and a minimum amount of detail.

Michael by Michael Kors’ polyester jacket. PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER Giuliana Teso to Start E/ARTISTSLOFT.COM New Year With New Plan Nili Lotan’s By Marc Karimzadeh cotton jacket and J. Lindenberg’s NEW YORK — After celebrating its 25th anniversary cotton pants. this year, fur company Giuliana Teso is embarking on initiatives to secure the next chapter of growth for the Vicenza, Italy-based firm. Carlo Teso, president of GT USA, the U.S. arm of the company and founder Giuliana Teso’s son, stopped in New York last week to outline some of the strategic changes of the last few seasons. These include the recent split of the collection into two tiers according to price; the implementation of a design team to further diversify the collection; an effort to brand the collection in the U.S. through advertising, and plans for boutiques and store-in-store concepts worldwide. Much has changed since Giuliana Teso launched the collection 25 years ago. The company has worldwide wholesale sales of $20 million, and a reputation for exquisite furs, from sable to mink and broadtail. The designer has become known for treating furs like regular fabrics by weaving, piercing or embroidering them. The fall collection, for instance, drew from Russia’s fin de siècle Imperial courts, and used sable, chinchilla, astrakhan, Persian lamb and mink, sometimes trimming them with pearls or Swarovski crystals. This holiday, the company offers an unusual 24-karat gold sprayed jacket with a sable trim for $17,000 at Neiman Marcus. To better serve its retail accounts, the company split the collection into the couture-level Black Label PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: KATIE F/ELITE; HAIR BY FRANCKY L’OFFICIAL/ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO.COM; MAKEUP BY AMANDA REDGRAV MAKEUP BY TIMOTHY PRIANO.COM; BY L’OFFICIAL/ARTISTS FRANCKY F/ELITE; HAIR BY JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: KATIE PHOTOS BY and White Label last year, with wholesale prices from $2,400 to $80,000, and $700 to $3,500, respectively. In addition, it recently hired a full design team culled globally to enhance the collection and add cat- Weatherproof Goes With Deep Freeze egories, from its core business fur to fur accessories such as handbags and ready-to-wear. The label has al- NEW YORK — The Weatherproof Gar- ways peppered its runway shows with rtw looks, but ment Co. has gotten a jump start on the never seriously wholesaled them until now. winter selling season by sponsoring the “Now, we’re in a total-look situation, with furs, hand- Bryant Park Pond, the new public skat- bags, ready-to-wear and, in select markets like Europe ing facility in Bryant Park here. and Saudi Arabia, home accessories,” Carlo Teso said. As part of the deal, the brand is sell- With such an array of merchandise, the company is ing its coats in the 800-square-foot out- ready to embark on its next step, which is building a erwear shop adjacent to the skating network of boutiques, shop-in-shops and in-store cor- rink. Leonardo DiCaprio breezed by the ners in Korea, Japan, Russia, Dubai and other coun- store to buy a pair of gloves last month, tries. There are already two such Giuliana Teso cor- according to the company. ners in the U.S., at Neiman Marcus in Los Angeles and To date, 600 women’s coats have in San Francisco. These corners carry the Black and been sold, with bestsellers being a White labels, including rtw and accessories. More such down-filled long coat, a faux Persian corners are expected to open at other Neiman Marcus Weatherproof’s new advertising campaign. lamb walker, a three-in-one perform- branches soon. In the U.S., the company sells to 25 ance jacket, a faux lynx trenchcoat and a multicolored plaid wool peacoat. Each of those styles retail for $99. Neiman Marcus doors, as well as 50 specialty stores. In Weatherproof will hold an on-ice fashion show and a cocktail party at the Bryant Park Pond on Jan. 10. the U.S., it has wholesale volume of about $7 million. Weatherproof president Freddie Stollmack said, “Bryant Park is such a great location. It’s become somewhat To help drive U.S. sales, the firm embarked on an of a tourist attraction with the ice rink and the holiday boutiques that opened in December. I think this will be- advertising strategy for the first time last fall in come a fixture in New York.” September in issues of W and Vogue (both, like WWD, Weatherproof staffers have a bird’s-eye view of the skating rink from their Sixth Avenue offices, and are part of Condé Nast Publications Inc.). Stollmack said he routinely uses the skating area for trend-watching. He said he usually stops by every other “We wanted to be a well-kept secret, like an Aston day to see what skaters are wearing and to see what shoppers are buying. Stollmack said he is also keeping an Martin car that only a certain type of person knows,” eye on any vacancies on upper Madison Avenue, where the company is considering opening a store. Teso recalled. “Now that we’re growing, we want to In other news, the brand’s new outdoor advertising campaign is on a billboard on the southeast corner of brand the label.” Broadway and 38th Street. Instead of featuring celebrities in its ads as it has in recent years, Weatherproof is As for potentially strong areas of growth in the fu- showing a drawing of a row of paint cans carrying its logo with the tagline “One Great Coat.” The company will ture, Teso added: “The core business is furs, and ac- double its annual advertising budget to more than $5 million in 2006, Stollmack said. cessories are extremely important for our future. — Rosemary Feitelberg Rtw is a complement.” ADVERTISEMENT Bigger Than Ever 2006 Hong Kong International Fur & Fashion Fair The demand for elegant furs is rising across the globe and the Canada, China, Finland, Germany, Greece, Italy, Korea, Spain, Fair were outstanding. Many companies came up with exciting and 2006 Hong Kong International Fur & Fashion Fair will attract a Turkey, U.K. and the U.S. Exhibitors from Sweden, Russia and innovative ideas through collaboration with European fur houses record number of buyers and exhibitors. Namibia join the Fair for the first time. so that a wide range of materials is offered, not just mink.” Since its creation in 1982, the annual Fair—organized by the Last year’s Fair attracted over 5,700 visitors with HK$ 2.4 billion A North American fur supplier noted, “Hong Kong makes fur Hong Kong Fur Federation (HKFF) with the Hong Kong Trade worth of orders placed during the four-day exhibition, reported for all the major markets and this is where Hong Kong is truly Development Council as advisor—has thrived and is now Thomas Wong, Chairman of the Hong Kong Fur Federation. showing leadership.” acknowledged as the most important event in the world for Thanks to the Hong Kong Fur Federation's foreign efforts The grandest exhibition of fur collections will take place during companies sourcing quality fur garments. Scheduled for February promoting Hong Kong as an international fur center, visitors from the Fair’s opening night at the Fur Gala—a fashion show staged in 25-28, 2006 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Center the U.S., Europe and Korea grew 50 percent, visitors from Japan the Grand Hall. Over 1,800 VIP guests will enjoy a preview of the (HKCEC), the 2006 Fair will be the largest ever. rose 82 percent and there were more attendees from nations like latest collections from 20 leading Hong Kong fur manufacturers For 2006, the Hong Kong Fur Federation projects a profitable Hungary and Poland. and dine on a Chinese banquet. and rewarding Fair, attracting 200 exhibitors—a 20 percent Buyers were so active that business from the U.S. was up 45 increase—with 102 Hong Kong Fur Federation members and 106 percent; orders from China rose 23 percent; Korea 93 percent; and For information, contact the Hong Kong Fur Federation at overseas and China exhibitors. Exhibition space has increased 25 Japan 20 percent. (852) 2367 4646, e-mail [email protected], or percent to 20,000 square meters. “Fur is now a mainstream business, which will continue,” link to the web site www.hkfurfed.com.hk Exhibitors travel from 15 different countries including Argentina, observed a major buyer from Europe.“The range and colors at the

Designers Create Global Fur Fever Hong Kong’s Fashion Frenzy Across the globe, fur emerged as the Autumn/Winter 2005-2006 season’s fashion essential. Ranked number one in the world in terms of quality, volume, delivery speed and reliability of fur Utilizing the latest design techniques, international fashion designers played up fur’s weight, products, Hong Kong has also excelled by staying at the forefront of the market. volume and texture—resulting in some of the most innovative uses for fur ever. Hong Kong fur manufacturers work closely with designers from all over the world to embrace new A huge trend for the season was the combination of furs with leather, velvet, chiffon or stretch technology and stay conscious of emerging market trends. Already acclaimed for its efficient and jersey on one garment. Clements Ribeiro created depth and movement to a sassy bolero by mixing sophisticated process of fur garment manufacturing, Hong Kong boasts the most advanced dressing short-haired and long-haired furs while Hermès paired tweed with mink to create a sleek bomber. and dyeing applications in the world. Various shapes and texture are also important in the coming season and chevrons, zig-zags Hong Kong has been further recognized as a leader in the business by utilizing technology that and bias cuts added dimension and curves to fur garments. Marc Jacobs used mink chevrons reduces the weight of fur products—the biggest advancement in the fur industry in the past 20 years. to accentuate the cinched waist of an oversized coat and at Calvin Klein, designer Francisco By creating fur products that are lightweight and comfortable to wear in mild or cold weather, Hong Costa added texture to a black sheared mink coat with a boxy grid pattern, creating a streamline Kong furriers create products that are accessible, practical and attract a younger clientele. figure-hugging look. Local manufacturers have also experimented with various fur looks to capitalize on the versatility The oversized fur collar seemed to be all the rage, showing up on the runways of Dsquared2, of skins as a high fashion fabric for all seasons. Apart from longtime favorites like mink and fox, furs Alexander McQueen and Christian Dior. like astrakhan and fisher will also gain popularity in coming seasons, noted Thomas Wong, Many designers utilized color in their fur garments. Roberto Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana Chairman of the Hong Kong Fur Federation (HKFF). presented black fur on their pieces, while Jean Paul Gaultier chose white Chekian lamb for one Variations on traditional pieces will be seen in upcoming collections as fur is dyed and sheared, of his jackets. plucked or knitted, and double-faced or textured for added distinction, Wong said, and half-sheared Fur even found its way onto eye-catching accessories. Fur hats turned heads from skin will be an important new trend. Costume National to Jennifer Lopez’s Sweetface line, while scarves and mufflers went to great Fur’s diversity has also re-energized designer collections. “Fur will continue to be a popular choice lengths, from a short golden-sable scarf at Bottega Veneta to a long, skinny, ranch-mink muffler at for designers in 2006,” reported Wong. “However, the export statistics of fur will not reflect the true Lagerfeld Gallery. market demand because fur is widely used in other aspects, like trimmings on leather or wool coats Fur made such a statement this season, even menswear picked up on the trend. Key influences and even lifestyle items.” were drawn from the Russian Revolution and the 1960’s Mod movement. Louis Vuitton evoked Everything from coats to accessories will spotlight the fur-intensive season. The diverse selection images of a young Rudolf Nureyev with a black karakul pea coat, while Dolce & Gabbana of skin types and wide range of colors and combinations make fur more exciting and fashionable paired an American grey fox coat with slim jeans and a corduroy cap to evoke the look of a than ever. young revolutionary. Formal wear also capitalized on fur’s warm elegance. Emporio Armani added an oversized 2006 Hong Kong International Fur & Fashion Fair silver-fox boa to pinstripe trousers and a satin blazer and Dries Van Noten added softness to his The annual Hong Kong International Fur & Fashion Fair is the most spectacular fur and fashion event in the Asia-Pacific region. sleek pinstripe suit with a contrasting canvas storm coat lined in nutria. Date: February 25-28, 2006 On the sportier side, classic styles like the duffel, storm and pea coats were also reinterpreted Location: Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Center using fur by such designers as John Galliano, Roberto Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana. 1 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Organizer: Hong Kong Fur Federation Hong Kong fashion designers also featured fur in their collections. Hong Kong furriers satisfied Address: Room 603, Chevalier House, 45-51 the fashion industry’s demand for fur, while designers used the latest techniques to explore new and Chatham Road South, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong innovative uses for skins in fashion design. Tel: (852) 2367 4646 Fax: (852) 2739 0799 Website: http://www.hkfurfed.com.hk e-mail: [email protected] Seven renowned Hong Kong designers including Bonita Cheung, Arthur Lam, Richard Li, Admission for Trade only Walter Ma, William Tang, Benny Yeung and Kevin Yeung recently participated in a “Designers Love Products: Fur and leather garments, fur skins, furriers’ Fur” project, a debut event organized by the HKFF that will be launched in January 2006. A brand tools, accessories, pelts and machinery new fur collection created by the designers will be presented during the HKFF’s Gala Dinner. 12 WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2005 WWD.COM Retailers Search for Holiday Spark

By David Moin checkout lines were up to five people deep. Instead of running the same fashions throughout Christmas as in NEW YORK — Retailers have nothing to rave about so far the past, Wal-Mart had several new George styles, this holiday season. including chiffon prairie shirts for $15.57, brocade jack- Traffic has been generally ho-hum and no hot gift ets for $22.82 and sparkle V-necks for $17.82. Candy, toys items have emerged on the fashion front. But several and electronics were the busiest sections. retail executives on Monday said shopping surges could A Target in Saugus, Mass., was not as busy as the Wal- materialize by Friday and with luck last through New Mart, but Target cleared much of the discounted apparel Year’s, enabling them to hit sales goals. While there was that clogged stores on Black Friday. Only 10 percent of its some momentum noticed this past weekend, Black racks had signs for 30 to 50 percent off. The parking lot was Friday’s mad dash to the malls is a distant memory. full, and most shoppers clustered in holiday decor and “The feeling is that business is tough,” said one sen- wrappings, candy and food gifts, scented candles and toys. ior executive of a major national chain. Richard Hastings, retail analyst at Bernard Sands, “I think it’s slower than we had anticipated, but we feel said he’s noticed “erratic” shopping patterns in Target sure that the next two weeks is going have required level since October. “On Black Friday, the toys and electronics of volume to meet our plans,” said Andrew Jennings, pres- were extremely heavy, but the rest of the store was ident of Saks Fifth Avenue. almost deserted,” he said. “We will have a better feeling about business toward the end of the week,” said Michael Gould, chairman and chief Shopping in SPECIALTY STORES executive of Bloomingdale’s. “The very encouraging part of downtown San “Markdowns stepped up this weekend at select retail- the whole holiday season is the level of self-purchasing.” Francisco on Monday. ers,” said Mark A. Friedman, specialty retail analyst at Pat Murphy Kerstein, executive vice president and NEWS /LANDOV WHITE/BLOOMBERG KIMBERLY PHOTO BY Merrill Lynch, in a research report. “Express was offer- chief merchandising officer of Chico’s, said, “This week- opportunity to wait for last-minute deals.” ing $20 off denim, 30 percent off knit pants and hoodies end really turned out a lot of shoppers. A lot of our cus- “Black Friday has not been a good indicator” of holi- and 40 percent off sweaters and select tops. Zales was tomers are buying for themselves.” day sales, observed Jay McIntosh, Americas Director of offering 10 percent off the entire store….However, oth- “There is still uncertainty,” said another retail ceo. Retail and Consumer Products for Ernst & Young LLP. ers, surprisingly, had fewer than expected markdowns, “Obviously, the snowstorm [last week] killed the “Six percent total retail sales will hold up against last including Gap and Banana. As we enter the final two Northeast. We got walloped. The general consensus is year’s 8 percent.” He sees midtier department stores and weeks of holiday, we expect more aggressive markdowns that there will be another late Christmas, but no one is discounters struggling the most this season. at Eagle, Aéropostale, Gap, Old Navy, Banana, Express, panicky. No one is giving up hope, but people are start- Loft and Ann [Taylor]….As the holiday season continues, ing to get nervous. It will come down to the last two DEPARTMENT STORES we believe increased promotions will give rise to con- weeks, and the week after Christmas is a big week.” “Business was OK. We were not terribly dissatisfied,” said cerns about holiday sales.” On average, retailers planned for total sales gains in ceo Bob Mettler of Macy’s West, speaking of last week. He Chico’s cited scarves, hats, gloves, novelty belts, key the 4 to 6 percent range, and comp-store sales of roughly cited jewelry, handbags (notably Coach), shoes, cowboy chains, watches, embellished jeans and spa wear. half that. Among the trends keeping them above water: boots, denim-related belts and Western wear trends. A J. Crew spokeswoman said, “The stores were very strong selling in handbags, jewelry, boots, Western looks, “Sportswear is pretty good, coats are fair, sweaters picked crowded.” Cashmere sweaters and outerwear were popu- scarves, gloves, men’s dress shirts, gift cards and elec- up from November, though it’s not a particularly great lar, especially a stadium cloth coat for women at $325. tronics, particularly televisions, DVDs and iPods. sweater season. Ready-to-wear picked up last week, but H&M cited dresses and velvet blazers for parties, chunky Retailers said the extra selling day this year and there are no hot items of the season. The real big accelera- jewelry, heavy sweaters, denim and winter accessories. Hanukkah starting the same day as Christmas should tion will be week four,” which is next week. translate to heavy last-minute shopping. The cold weath- A Sears, Roebuck district manager in Dallas reported ONLINE er is already helping, but not when it’s snowy or icy. that electronics were good sellers, including plasma, LCD Dan Nissanoff, founder of the Portero auction site, said Adding to the uncertainty, more messy weather is and tube TVs; digital cameras bundled with printers, and watches and jewelry were still strong. However, in the last expected this week and the threat of a transit strike in XBoxes. The manager also said Sears’ “little wish big week, consumers have been gravitating toward unusual New York City on Friday looms. (See sidebar.) book,” an accordion-style booklet of 25 suggested gifts dis- high-end items and experiences, he said. Offerings include Retail analyst Walter Loeb said, “Total sales will be 3 or tributed at Sears auto centers, encouraged sales. Another four nights in Monaco, $14,500; two tickets to next year’s 4 percent over last year, maybe 5 percent, depending on how Sears district manager in Florida cited electronics, fine Victoria’s Secret fashion show and after-party, $10,000, and much the extra day helps. It could help by 1 to 1.5 percent.” jewelry and major appliances, while a spokesman from a Sports Illustrated swimsuit launch party, $1,000. “We have entered the most critical shopping period of Sears’ corporate office said cordless Craftsman drills and Federico Marchetti, founder of the Yoox luxury Web the season with over 40 percent of holiday sales occur- portable DVD players were bestsellers. site, said the firm is shipping 2,000 orders per day this hol- ring the two weeks prior to Christmas,” said Merrill iday. The firm has 500,000 items available online and has Lynch analyst Mark Friedman in a research report. MASS STORES increased its average order this season. “They’re buying 2.2 “Stores were crowded over the weekend, but the biggest- Wal-Mart appears to be back in the game, after a dis- or 2.3 or 2.5 items. Before, they bought 1.4. items,” he said. volume days are still ahead of us. This is particularly true appointing holiday ’04. The parking lot of a Danvers, — With contributions from Sharon Edelson this year as an extra Saturday gives consumers a better Mass., Wal-Mart was jammed Sunday morning and and Katherine Bowers, Boston

The final rush to Christmas is a critical period when stores usually have their strongest sales. N.Y. Stores Prepare for Transit Strike Typically, stores try to mobilize executives to help staff the selling floors, find places for those living outside Manhattan to stay overnight and organize car pools or vans. By Sharon Edelson Executives at Macy’s Herald Square were working on strike preparations on Monday. “We’re still trying to figure a couple of things out,” a spokeswoman said. “At NEW YORK — Retailers in the largest U.S. city are nervously bracing for a possible the same time, a lot of people rely on mass transit in addition to workers. Our cus- strike at 12:01 a.m. Friday by transit workers that would halt subway and bus service tomers are going to be affected, as well. Is that going to change where they shop and for as many as 7 million riders a day during the peak of holiday shopping. are they going to go to malls? There may be a shift there. If the person wants to shop Stores are working on contingency plans to get personnel to work, but there is lit- at Herald Square but can’t get there, they’re going to wind up going to their Queens tle that merchants can do to assist shoppers suddenly Center store.” without mass transit in a city that relies heavily on it. “We’ve planned it so far in advance that we’re hop- Internet sales and retailers’ mall-based stores could ing for business as usual,” said a spokeswoman at provide some alternatives. H&M. “We’re setting up some arrangements and try- “It would have an enormous impact on the busi- ing to work out the staffing. It’s hard to speculate ness,” said Michael Gould, chairman and chief execu- about what would happen with the customers.” tive officer of Bloomingdale’s, which has its flagship One of the busiest New York City transit hubs is on 59th Street — directly over a subway station. “We 34th Street, which is also a major shopping thorough- are working on various plans, in case it happens.” fare, with Macy’s, Victoria’s Secret, Gap, H&M, Zara, There has not been a subway and bus strike since Banana Republic, American Eagle Outfitters and 1980, and New York’s Taylor law prohibits walkouts Forever 21, among others. by public employees, but the bargaining is particu- “We’re very dependent on transit on 34th Street larly tough this time around because the and all of New York City,” said Lisa Rosenthal, associ- Metropolitan Transportation Authority, the agency ate director of the 34th Street Partnership, a busi-

that oversees mass transit in the region, is demand- IMAGES MARIO TAMA/GETTY PHOTO BY ness-improvement district unit. “A transit strike ing concessions on pensions and health benefits. Retailers are working on contingency plans for a possible transit strike. would certainly be an inconvenience….We hope the Transit workers are seeking 8 percent pay increases strike can be averted.” over the next three years. The MTA has proposed a 3 percent boost for the first Not everyone was thinking ahead. A spokeswoman for J. Crew said, “Transit year and 2 percent the second. strike? We haven’t even talked about it — something people are in denial about. The 33,700-member Transport Workers Union Local 100 has voted to authorize a We’ll probably talk about it some time tomorrow once we get more information. strike. Suburban rail lines and buses would not be affected. New Yorkers are so resilient, they’ll find a way to get out. The beauty is, we also Should workers walk off the job Friday they would potentially incur millions of have our Web site.’’ dollars in fines for the union and loss of two days’ pay each day workers strike. — With contributions from David Moin WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2005 13 WWD.COM Gross Margins Higher in 3Q By Arthur Zaczkiewicz

NEW YORK — If consumers pull back on spending this January and retailers are forced to pull the trigger on steeper markdowns, the bottom-line impact may not be that bad. Third-Quarter Gross Margin Rates Analysts say this is especially true for retailers such as J.C. Penney, which is using technology to better manage its inventories as well as its markdowns. According to an analysis by WWD of department store retailers reporting results for RETAILER: 3Q GM RATE 2004 3Q GM RATE 2005 BASIS-POINT CHANGE the third quarter, the average gross margin rate was 78 basis points higher than the same period last year. Heftier gross margin rates heading into the critical holiday Bon-Ton Stores 37.90 34.25 365 shopping season gives retailers more wiggle room when it comes to maintaining prof- its during planned promotions and markdowns. In WWD’s analysis, department store retailers serving the middle market posted the J.C. Penney Co. Inc. 40.74 41.84 110 most robust year-over-year basis point changes in their gross margin rates. These included companies such as Bon-Ton Stores and J.C. Penney Co. Inc., which had gross margin gains of 365 and 110 basis points, respectively, while Gottschalks Inc. and Gottschalks Inc. 36.04 36.88 84 Dillard’s posted increases of 84 and 74 points, respectively. Analysts tend to applaud retailers when their gross margins rates rise 20 to 30 basis points. Working with tighter year-over-year gross margin rates were the luxury players. Saks Inc. and Dillard’s Inc. 32.84 33.58 74 Neiman Marcus had year-over-year gross margin gains of 1 and 2 basis points, respectively. In a research note earlier this month, A.G. Edwards analyst Robert Buchanan Federated Department Stores Inc. 39.83 40.43 60 pegged shares of J.C. Penney with a “buy” rating. The analyst praised the leadership of Mike Ullman, chief executive officer of the retailer, writing that Ullman and his team “continue to execute a common-sense strategy rooted in in-depth knowledge of Kohl’s Corp. 35.92 36.31 39 the targeted moderate consumer.” Buchanan said Penney’s is “catapulting the competition” by applying a “sound business process” and an “efficacious use of newly installed state-of-the-art merchandise- Nordstrom Inc. 36.13 36.47 34 control software.” Jeffrey Klinefelter, equity analyst at Piper Jaffray, has an “outperform” rating on J.C. Stage Stores 29.49 29.64 15 Penney. In a recent research note, the analyst is “forecasting a profitable holiday season at J.C. Penney.” “We believe J.C. Penney is positioned to benefit from continued margin improve- The Neiman Marcus Group 41.50 41.52 2 ment throughout the holiday season as the company has improved its inventory flows and its seasonal transitions. Tighter inventory control…has resulted in lower clear- ance activity and gross margin expansion.” Saks Inc. 38.95 38.96 1 Klinefelter added that Penney’s gross margins have also “benefited from increased sales of private label product,” which “have substantially higher merchandise margins Average Basis-Point Change: 78 and have outpaced the store average sales increase. These exclusive brands also help drive traffic and build customer loyalty.”

competing publisher’s estimates put its average through October at less than 150,000. MEMO PAD Perhaps in an attempt to break out of the Jen-Brad-Nick- CELEBRITY SLOWDOWN: The holiday Jessica-Britney-Kevin rut, Us put season is turning out to be not so Julia Roberts on its Nov. 21 jolly for the celebrity weeklies. issue. But the gamble, which Newsstand sales of People, Us sources said was done at the Weekly, In Touch and Star all are urging of owner Jann Wenner, down in the fourth quarter from their didn’t pay off: The issue only sold previous year-to-date average, around 800,000 copies, making according to several industry sources. it one of Us’ weakest of the year. Us has seen the steepest drop-off, Executives from the the with fourth-quarter sales running magazines declined to comment. about 15 percent below its January- — Jeff Bercovici Garment Industry through-September average. People is SAVED SEAT: David Rock’s and down about 9 quixotic campaign to take American Jewry percent; Star, 8 over Peter Armour’s seat on percent, and In the Audit Bureau of 1860-1960 Touch, 5 percent, said Circulations’ board has sources. (People, Us come up short. At ABC’s A Recipient of the and In Touch are all annual meeting, held in on pace to report a New York Monday, Armour, National Endowment year-over-year senior vice president of for Humanities increase for the consumer marketing affairs “We the People” Award second half as a whole, however; Star at Condé Nast Publications (parent will be slightly down.) of WWD), defeated Rock, director of It’s not unusual for magazines online and partnerships at Ziff sold at checkout to experience a Davis, in board elections, securing slowdown toward the end of the another two-year term. (The 15 West 16th Street year, as holiday merchandise takes meeting was supposed to take place (between Fifth and Sixth Avenues) over front-end retail space. But last month in Miami, but Hurricane category insiders see additional Wilma forced a change in venue.) factors at work here, including The outcome was not exactly a Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday, overcrowding (three new magazines surprise; sitting board members Thursday 11 am - 5 pm have entered the field in the past virtually never are challenged for Monday 11 am - 8 pm 13 months) and reader fatigue. reelection. But Rock had argued Then there is the element of luck: that dissatisfaction over the Friday 11 am - 2 pm While the first half of 2005 circulation-reporting controversies delivered up the Brad Pitt-Jennifer of the past two years would breed Aniston-Angelina Jolie love triangle, an appetite for change. “My the second half has failed to yield a primary objective in this election comparable bonanza. Of the new was to have a positive impact on magazines, only Life & Style has our industry — hopefully, I’ve done climbed past the half-million mark. that,” he said after the election. OK has claimed newsstand sales of “Peter is a wonderful representative 212.294.8330 250,000 to 275,000, but a for our industry.” — J.B. www.yumuseum.org

wwdAd.indd 1 14 WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2005

DESIGNER DESIGNER BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY SENIOR TECHNICAL Our client is a NY based well-established, well-known Im- LADIES ASSISTANT SPORTSWEAR Major women’s moderate porter & Distributor of apparel with annual volume in excess TECHNICAL DESIGNER Leading women’s apparel sportswear co. seeks highly 8th Ave. & 39th St. of $100 million. It has an excellent track record spanning Leading ladies outerwear co. is seeking a talented organized, detailed individu- SMALL LOFT SPACE for LEASE co. looking for highly organ- designer with 3-5 yrs exp. al with 5-8 yrs. exp. Must Call: 718-318-0619 over 25 years and a sound financial & operational infra- ized and detailed individual to join our BOSTON design have a strong background structure managed by a group of professionals. Client’s w/1-3 years exp. in techni- staff. Candidate will be in wovens and knits. Great strengths include own state of the art manufacturing facili- cal design. Must have great designing for a major public verbal & written skills with ties located in south East Asia, strong & competitive verbal and written communi- updated co. Must have a exp. in preparing tech. paks sourcing capabilities & fully computerized compliant distribu- cation skills. Exp w/ prepar- strong background in updated to overseas factories & pre- ing tech. packs to overseas knits and wovens for pants, production fittings. Web PDM tion center. To diversify & supplement its growth they are For Space in Garment Center factories + pre-production skirts and jackets with a needed. Position in BOSTON. Helmsley-Spear, Inc. planning to launch a Division and/or acquire an existing set fittings. strong knowledge of prints Excellent salary & benefits. 212-880-0414 up dealing in missy & junior bottoms (wovens & knits). Inter- Ladies Associate and fabrics. 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Search- www.manhattanoffices.com 617-332-3260 Fax#- Attn: Michael Halpern; 212-245-3808 Please e-mail all resumes to: [email protected] Showrooms & Lofts Mid Tier, Junior Urban BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS LICENSING DIRECTOR Collection looking for a Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Major branded denim company with sales in excess of DESIGNER & 100M seeks Licensing director SALESPERSON with minimum 5 yrs experience Must have 5 yrs. experi- acquiring and working with FASHION RESUMES licensors to grow the brand. ence in urban wear. Staff Thru Executive-Wholesale/Retail Must be motivated, excellent E-mail resume to: Established Garment Manufacturer Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates SAMPLE SALE with prime BROADWAY showroom Underwear and Underpinnings, communicator. Great op- [email protected] space and design facilities and GILBERT CAREER RESUMES (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa Loungewear, Sleepwear and Robes portunity. Salary commen- excess capacity will share with a For Men and Women compatible fit. fashionresumes.com surate with experience. fashioncareercenter.com DEC. 13TH (8 A.M. - 6 P.M.) Fax to: (212)-268-6838 DEC. 14TH (8 A.M. - 4 P.M.) EDI Operator/ Fax resume to HR @ 40 East 34th Street, Suite# 207 Warehouse Coordinator 212-719-1521 Technical Associate Fast paced private label company Responsible for EDI & other processing; seeks technical associate for our Long communicating with public warehouse; Island City office. Must have garment coordinating shipping, receiving, and construction and quality control expe- returns. Travel req’d. between NY office PROD’N MGR $125-$150K Bet Contemp Runway Mfr. Factory rience for import sample evaluations. &NJwarehouse. Minimum 3 years Must possess proficient English read- relevant exp. Fax resume: 212-358-0031 Sourcing. Suprvse Staff. Time/Action 39th Street & B’way, 1600 sq/ft +/- [email protected] or 212-947-3400 ing and writing skills. 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E-mail resume and TECHNICAL DESIGNER World-famous fashion houses & luxury MAGASCHONI APPAREL GROUP 212-764-4599 / [email protected] salary req, [email protected] goods companies need extra Sales Assts Private label co. seeks candidates to & ASSISTANT for the holiday rush. We are looking for assist in all phases of design and TECHNICAL DESIGNER correspondence with our HK office on GRAPHIC DESIGNER $40K Production Person Knits bright, sophisticated & exp’d customer Girls 7-16 Sportswear Activewear Exp’d person needed for domestic/ AT LAST SPORTWEAR,INC. service professionals to help make the adaily basis, must be well organized, import knit co. Resp. include: Produc- amulti-tasker, and a team player, Magazine Layout, Adv, Photo/Illus Leading Ladies Sportswear Manufacturer season bright. $10-15/hr. E-mail resume: [email protected] 212-947-3400 tion orders, fabric and trim sourcing [email protected] must have one year experience and and purchasing; production cut & sew seeks skilled Technical Designers with knowledge of Illustrator and Photoshop . tracking, lab dip approvals, mainte- abackground in garment construction & Please email resumes to: Order Entry/Invoicing nance of cost sheets, all pre-production pattern making. Designer must have [email protected] & follow-up till delivery. Fax resume to: min. 5 years experience, and Assistant PATTERN/SAMPLES or fax to 509-757-7814 Apparel manufacturer seeks order entry and invoicing individual. 2 years 212-382-2549 must have 2 yrs. experience, be organ- Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast ized, detail oriented & have strong work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 industry experience required. Fax resume to: (212) 382-3623 computer skills. Proficiency in Gerber’s BI-LINGUAL CHINESE $60K+ Production-Sweaters Web PDM is essential. Tech Design & Production Coordinator Import Sweater Co seeks full charge Email resume to [email protected] PATTERNS/SAMPLES/CUTTING [email protected] Patternmaker $75-85K current exp in exp, organized, computer literate, de- PRODUCTIONS women’s woven lined+, unlined jackets tail oriented person able to multi task. 257 W. 38th Street, 3rd Floor Admin Since 1967 +suits. Excellent on table as well as E-Mail only: [email protected] Ph: (212) 921-8100 W-I-N-S-T-O-N Gerber computer proficient. Mdtwn Bookkeeper large Co. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY Production Technical APPAREL STAFFING Needed for 5th Avenue flagship store Technical Designer and corporate office. Knowledge of Designer Asst Exp w/ C.N.S. Knits & Woven Tops Wm’s DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Phone (212)302-0216 Fax (212)302-1161 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION G/L, A/P, A/R and invoicing necessary; PATTERNMAKER - Couture Major Women’s Designer Apparel Co. PRODUCTIONS (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 ACCPAC required. FREELANCE Patternmaker; excellent seeks highly motivated professional w/ Send resumes to draper, to create original patterns for 1-2 yrs exp. Must have exp in grading, All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. [email protected] or fit cmmts, construction & communicate Call Sherry 212-719-0622. custom evening collection. Fax resume: fax (212) 308-5570. 212-786-6775 w/ overseas factories. Good computer skills. Fax/email resume: 212-840-0205 Technical Designer APPAREL JOBS CAD Designer [email protected] Ladies’ Mfr. seeks exp’d., detail oriented PATTERNS, SAMPLES, 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)Spec Techs PATTERNMAKER someone w/strong knowledge of garment Childrens Exp Detail oriented patternmaker w/ 10 3)Designers-assoc-assist. boy-girl-YG men-Jr [email protected] Sales Reps-Wanted construction, fit, and grading from devel- PRODUCTIONS Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) years experience for high end women’s COLOUR WORKS a leader in high opment through prod’n. Must lead & Full service shop to the trade. designer sportswear company. Must be fashion knits & sweaters has openings oversee all design & prod’n. fittings to Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. DESIGN self motivated & able to manage time in the following territories, New Eng/ evaluate fit problems w/patternmakers & ASST. DESIGNER with multiple projects. Fax resume w/ Up St.N.Y./ No.N.J./ ILL./ Ind./ Oh./ factories. Decision making a must! Min. 5 salary history to (212) 302-3122. Mi./ Pac.N.W. All inquires, Call Mark @ years exp. req’d. Fax: 212-358-0031 WAREHOUSING & ASSISTANT Swimwear (212) 302-0444 DISTRIBUTION SERVICES TECHNICAL DESIGNER Seeking design graduate, computer Fast paced Junior Division looking for literate, organized team player, knowl- PATTERNMAKER SAMPLE RM DIR $150K We are seeking to warehouse and distrib- edge of U4ia plus. Entry level position, Est’d. Children’s Wear Co. in Manhattan’s Sprvise 3 Better Bridge Sample Rms ute sportswear and/ or outerwear on an Assistant Technical Designer for cut & sew knits and sweaters. Must $30K. Fax resume to: Garment District seeks an individual Control Fit. Work w/Factories Long Island. We are a full service ware- (212) 594-7234 Attn: Marina L who can make 1st patterns, create size [email protected] or 212-947-3400 Technical Designer house; able to import, receive, pick, have 2-3 years current technical design or patternmaking experience. specs, grade size specs between sizes, Midtown Apparel Co. seeks individual pack, and ship your merchandise. We and create blocks. Good communication/ with the following qualifications: Must be can do order entry, EDI, invoicing, etc. •Knowledge of garment construction DESIGNERS organizational skills & Excel proficiency Seamstress/Tailor able to create/grade size specs; possess for you. •Patternmaking & grading skills req’d. Hours: 9am-6pm (Mon.-Fri.). Salary Seeking a professional w/ experience good organization/communication skills * Senior-Runway Contemp Sprtswr $125K in high-end clothing. Must be able to Fax: 516-671-4614 •Measuring garments * Sweater-Better Market $115K negotiable (based on exp.); good benefits. (will be in charge of communication •Fit evaluation Please E-mail: [email protected] work w/ double face cashmere, evening between factories & customers); profi- * Sweater/Knits-Bead Layout $45K wear, bias-cut dresses, fine fabrics, and Will work closely with senior technical * Asst-Colorist Lab Dips/LiteBox $40K ciency in Word & Excel. Hours are lace. Please fax resume/information to: Mon.-Fri., 9am - 6pm. Salary negotiable designer on all aspects from development [email protected] 212-947-3400 Patternmaker 212-290-2708 through production. Candidate must (based on exp.); good benefits. To set up be highly organized, have excellent interview, E-mail: [email protected] communication skills and be computer Division Merchandise Mgr Sweater, Knits & Woven TD’s literate. Qualified candidates please * TD-Mens Knits/Woven Sweaters $85K fax resume 212-221-8569 / Sr. Buyer Seeking experienced production * TD-Wovens-Better Market $85K Position located in PATTERNMAKER who is highly skilled * TD-Sweater-Many Oppts $55-$85K in sportswear and dresses. Must know * TD-Womens Knits/Wovens $45K Technical Designer San Salvador, El Salvador factory procedures. 5-10 years experience [email protected] 212-947-3400 ALMACENES SIMAN, S. A. DE C. V. required. FAX RESUME: 212-594-0038 YOUNIQUE CLOTHING Assistant to President of Sales Aretail company based in El Salvador TECH Design - 3+yrs w/a woven importr Great opportunity for a self motivated, Licensing Division / L.A. Based Position with fifteen stores in Central America, President/ CEO $225-250K+++ current of WW doing tech packs/specs on Excel/ well organized, team player proficient Dynamic fast growing Watch Co. seeks seeks Division Merchandise Mgr or a exp in JR. moderate priced bottoms req’d. fittings/patternmkng exp nec. 65k-75K. in technical flat sketching of all styles an Assistant to their President of Sales, Senior Buyer with a minimum of 5 Denim or non-denim OK. Strong in pri- Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 in Illustrator. Must be able to: build Licensing Division. Individual must be years esperience in a mulit-unit vate label product devel w/ present fol- detailed tech packs using Excel, devel- aself starter, proactive, and have an atten- department or specialty store. lowing. Proven record of min 10-15M vol. TECH DESIGN ASST op design prototype specs using illus- tion to detail. Must have experience in Will hire team of merchandisers+design- Tech Design 5 yrs exp. for ladies garment trator and Exel, support design by dealing with Major Retailers & Dept./ Salary up to $70,000 a year ers. Mdtwn Co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy sportswear co. Must have experience scanning in Photoshop. Import back- Specialty Stores. Possible travel to trade Relocation & temporary grading, fit cmmts, construction and ground a must.Only candidates who shows. Retail experience a +. Minimum housing benefits available communicate with overseas factories. are able to multi-task in a fast paced 2 years sales / administrative support Email your resume & salary req. to: PROD’N COORD $45-55K Good computer using excel and outlook, environment need apply. experience. Fax or E-mail resumes to: Email: [email protected] Private Label Exp & PC Skills a Must and Chinese skills plus. Please fax resumes to: 949-631-7550 / [email protected] Phone: 011 (503) 2250-2309 [email protected] or 212-947-3400 Fax resume: 212-302-5763 212-730-0156 WWD, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2005 15 WWD.COM

MOVING ON: Dayanara Torres, the star spokeswoman for Wal- Mart’s new contemporary collection Metro 7, got an official Fashion Scoops Angeleno welcome last Thursday when friends Wilmer Valderrama and Lucky Magazine’s West Coast editor Marlien Rentmeester welcomed her with a multicourse sushi fest at DIOR WATCH: Tonight’s gala launching Dior’s Christal, the first Hollywood’s Geisha House. Valderrama, who co-owns the timepiece designed by John Galliano, is turning out to be a much- restaurant, brought out pals Haylie Duff, Michelle Trachtenberg, buzzed-about night in a season of great parties. And it’s not simply Frankie Delgado, Arielle Kebbel and some 70 others to meet because the dinner for 80, in support of the Entertainment Torres, who relocated to Los Angeles recently and is house- Industry Foundation’s Women’s Cancer Research Fund, is the first hunting. The celebration topped a busy day for Torres: She was Anahita, in APC; Vanessa Seward, in Azzaro; to take place in the hallowed halls of Los Angeles’ Getty Center. up at dawn to do an appearance on the local morning newscast Marie Saint-Sabin, and Hélène Charial. Besides such expected guests as Charlize Theron, Eva Mendes and on KTLA, then she headed an hour south to a Santa Ana Wal- Lindsay Lohan, sources said that Prince also will be making a rare Mart and greeted 200 fans. “There were a lot of young Latinas appearance at the extra-long, single dining table. there,” said Torres, “and they are very proud. They cry. They give me words of encouragement. I love doing the appearances.” BAGGING IT: Even Hollywood stars love a good bargain. ROMPER ROOM: Nothing’s too good for kids of Manhattan’s chic Reese Witherspoon, Calista elite. And it seems no time is too early to get them in on the Flockhart, Kristin Davis, Jamie social circuit. After valet parking their strollers in front of the Tisch and others converged DKNY store on Madison Avenue Sunday afternoon, Violet Wednesday at Colleen Bell’s Savage (mom is Nanette Lepore), Mingus Reedus (mom is Helena estate to scoop up bags by Christensen) and Sebastian DeFelice and Stefania DeFelice (mom Chanel, Marc Jacobs and is Gabby Karan) popped into the boutique and promptly Louis Vuitton at 60 percent entertained themselves with gobs of jelly beans, marshmallows off retail at the third annual and a coloring book with drawings by Kenny Scharf and William Bag Lunch, benefiting P.S. Wegman. But it wasn’t all gumdrops and moonbeams, mind Arts. A feeding frenzy also you, these kids were out for a good cause: to kick off the new Bertrand Natasha of AS ensued when boxes of $200 limited-edition RxArt Coloring Book that will be distributed free Burgalat Dragon in Azzaro. Christian Louboutins were in hospitals across the country. BIANCHI STEFANO PHOTOS BY brought out. “It’s like a fire one word for the performance, “Amazing.” Kaster had three: “She’s sale,” exclaimed Jennifer HAPPY FACES: Maggie Norris Amazing Grace.” Tilly. Enough said. It only provided the attire, Boucheron Grace took an approving eyebrow offered the jewels and Grace Hightower PARIS SONG: Vanessa Seward, Vincent Darré, Alexia S., Isabella arch from hosts Elizabeth Hightower De Niro served up De Niro Capece Barroux and a bevy of hip fashionites gathered at the Stewart and George the entertainment at Sunday’s Elysée Montmartre Wednesday night for a steamy concert put Kotsiopoulos for women to Operation Smile benefit at the on by the chanteur Bertrand Burgalat. Burgalat kicked things off pounce on the chic totes. In Reese Carlyle in New York. Like the with songs from his new album “Portrait-Robot,” then gave the fact, the lion’s share of bags Witherspoon models flitting around the stage to his protégés at the Tricatel record label, AS Dragon.

was sold not 15 minutes SARDELLA/WIREIMAGE DONATO PHOTO BY hotel’s café, which was a But while Burgalat worked French cuffs as part of his stage after the doors opened. In all, the sale raised $83,000, with second home to the late Bobby look, AS Dragon’s kinetic lead singer, Natasha, went for classic 100 percent of proceeds going to the children’s charity. Short, the songstress was also rock instead. Strutting around the stage in an androgynous Le decked out by Norris to belt Smoking-style designed by Azzaro’s Seward, who is also HOLIDAY CROWD: Saks Fifth Avenue is cooking up a big holiday out a few tunes for Harvey Burgalat’s girlfriend, Natasha gave off more attitude than Mick industry feast at the New York flagship. What started five years Keitel, Daphna Kaster, Fran Jagger at his hell-raising height. ago as a cozy lunch for fashion journalists is expected to draw 80 Drescher, Amy Fine Collins, to 85 guests today, including about a dozen designers, among Dale William Brown, Somers LIZ’S REALITY: Martha Stewart plans to end her reality show, them David Chu, Derek Miller, Diane von Furstenberg, Douglas Farkas and Linda Fargo. While “The Apprentice: Martha Stewart” on Dec. 14 and Dec. 21 in Hannant, John Varvatos, Josie Natori, Patrick Robinson, Peter Som, many were taken by Operation an apparel state of mind. For the NBC show’s final task, one of Zac Posen and John Allan. Saks Fifth Avenue’s chief executive Smile founder William Magee’s the teams produced a fashion show featuring the holiday 2005 officer Fred Wilson will host the lunch in the store’s new HTWO first-person accounts, Keitel Liz Claiborne collection. Details of the task are under tight restaurant, with president Andrew Jennings, chief merchant Ron and his wife, Kaster, were also wraps, but executives at the company said Claiborne’s holiday Frasch and senior vice president of marketing Terron Schaefer. floored by their friend De Niro. collection shines as the centerpiece of the show as contestants “It’s a way of thanking everyone for their support,” said Lesley Having never caught her are challenged to present the line to an invitation-only crowd of Langsam, who was just promoted to Saks’ director of publicity. singing before, the actor had editors and corporate executives.

Marithé + François Girbaud ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE SALES Department Store Sales FOR JUNIOR BRAND Seeking an experienced Account Exec- Fast growing better Junior Knit Co. seeks utive specializing in department store motivated sales professional. Must have sales for its women’s young contempo- strong contacts & existing relationships rary division. Ideal candidate must w/better Dept./Chain Stores. Fax/E-mail: have 5 - 10 years sales experience in 213-748-2402 / [email protected] designer, contemporary or young A.B.S contemporary. Premium denim sales experience a plus. Strong background by Allen Schwartz in sales projections, gross margins and A.B.S., a leader in contemporary/designer retail math. Must have a flair for merchandising, store assortments and casual lifestyle clothing, has an incredible opportunity for an good sales presentation skills. aggressive, self-motivated Account Executive to join our Please Fax or Email your resume to: sportswear sales team in New York. Established relation- [email protected] or Fax # 646-459-2633 ships with better contemporary/designer and Interna- Bridal Retail Sales tional specialty stores a must. MERCHANDISER / F/T Salesperson wanted for upscale & Excellent benefits, salary and commission. sophisticated Midtown bridal salon. SALES MANAGER Must be detail oriented, energetic, All replies kept confidential. N.Y. based girls’/boys’ sleepwear/ knowledgeable about fabric & fit. Bri- Email: [email protected] loungewear mfr/importer seeks exp’d dal / couture sales or customer service individual to merchandise & manage background a plus. Salary & comm. sales reps. Fax resume to 631-952-2243. Fax resume to: (212) 319-6774 Sales Assistant Children’s/Strong Admin. European Young Fashion [email protected] PERSONAL SHOPPER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Women’s Fashion Clothing Company Company is Seeking: SALES EXECUTIVE seeks a personal shopper with a strong Leading women’s knitwear & sportswear •ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE with manufacturer has excellent opportunity Major 7th Ave Eveningwear Co. seeks sales background and super service expe- active contacts specialty store salesperson with a min- rience. Must have excellent phone and for dynamic, energetic, self starter & •JUNIOR MERCHANDISER results oriented sales executive. Exist- imum of 2-3 years experience in the writing skills. Also must have computer Fax or E-mail resumes to: Better/Bridge, Contemporary, or exp. and laptop to maintain customer ing relationships w/ better specialty 212-398-2690 / [email protected] stores preferred. E-mail resume to: Eveningwear market. Candidate must book and correspondence. Base and [email protected] be computer literate. commission as sales exceed goals. Fax resume to 212-764-5845. Email Resume to: [email protected] ©2005 Nautica International, Inc., www.nautica.com, www.navigatelife.com