SCOOP ON THE OSCARS/13 NORDSTROM NET UP 73.8%/2 Women’sWWDWW Wear Daily • The Retailers’DFRIDAY FRIDAYDaily Newspaper • February 20, 2004 • $2.00 Beauty Cool Runnings NEW YORK — Ralph Lauren is going after the young set again. Three years after the launch of its first teen-focused scent, Ralph, the brand is set to launch Ralph Cool in June. The fragrance has a different positioning, a different juice and is aimed at a different target audience than its predecessor. Yet it could do upward of $20 million at retail in its first year. For more, see page 5.

Room at the Inn: Giorgio Armani to Launch Luxe Hotel Venture By Luisa Zargani hotels in partnership with a major, signature design style to the travel MILAN — Giorgio Armani is checking publicly listed company. While the industry.

Y BRYN KENNY into another new world. details could not be learned — Armani first started talking about a WWD has learned that the including the identity of the new hotel in 2000, when he opened his Via designer will announce on Sunday an partner — the venture fulfills a long- Manzoni megastore, his sprawling, ambitious venture to open luxury held ambition of Armani’s to bring his See Armani’s, Page 10 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED B PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2004 Discounters Don’t Disappoint WWDFRIDAY Beauty By Dan Burrows Jan. 31, Bentonville, Ark.-based comps gained 4.4 percent. Wal-Mart said net income grew The results were something of NEW YORK — After an unusually 8.5 percent to $2.72 billion, or 63 a relief to Wal-Mart, following BEAUTY Three years after the launch of its teen-targeting scent Ralph, Polo Ralph tumultuous 12 months and some cents a diluted share, which third-quarter results that missed pre-Christmas pessimism, Wal- matched the Wall Street consen- analysts’ forecast for the first 5 Lauren is preparing to launch a new scent in June, Ralph Cool. Mart Stores Inc. more than satis- sus estimate. Excluding costs re- time since 1996, along with some Nu Skin Enterprises, which set out to create skin care products fied Wall Street by recording its lated to a change in German tax considerable hand-wringing on 6 emphasizing “good-for-you” ingredients, celebrates its 20th anniversary. customary multibillion-dollar law, Wal-Mart would have ex- the part of chief executive officer profit and sales gains in the ceeded the forecast by 3 cents. Lee Scott regarding sluggish fourth quarter and fiscal year. Last year, by comparison, the sales leading into the holiday GENERAL Meanwhile, Target Corp. — company recorded profits of selling season. Giorgio Armani is tackling yet another area of luxury, and will launch a chain Wal-Mart’s more-fashionable but $2.51 billion, or 57 cents. “As we went through Novem- 1 of high-end hotels, WWD has learned. distant-second discount competi- Net sales for the quarter ad- ber and December of this year, it tor — saw fourth-quarter earn- vanced 12.2 percent to $74.49 was a very challenging pre- Wal-Mart recorded its usual multibillion-dollar profit and sales gains in the ings jump by more than a fifth, billion from $66.4 billion a year Christmas environment,” said 2 fourth quarter and year, while Target’s profits jumped by more than a fifth. capping a very solid year of bot- ago. Total domestic comparable- Scott on a conference call for ana- Tom Ford will be the next honoree of the Rodeo Drive Walk of Style on tom- and top-line growth. store sales increased 4.8 per- lysts and investors. “We had a lot 10 March 28 in Beverly Hills, 20 days after his last bow for Yves Saint Laurent. For the three months ended cent, while Wal-Mart stores’ Continued on page 12 Nordstrom’s strategic initiatives continued to generate operating improvements, 2 as it posted a 73.8 percent boost in its fourth-quarter net profits. SUZY: Julia Roberts and Meg Ryan catch baby fever; A new choo-choo for 16 Queen Elizabeth; Jennifer Nicholson’s rising star. Gobbetti Appointed Givenchy President Classified Advertisements...... 15 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is PARIS — Givenchy has named LVMH spokesman said Tesler The three-year contract of Julien [email protected], using the individual's name. Marco Gobbetti its new president parted from Givenchy on amica- Macdonald expires in April. The WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 and chief executive, succeeding ble terms and is exploring new LVMH spokesman declined all FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Marianne Tesler. This confirms a opportunities within the group. comment on succession issues. VOLUME 187, NO. 36. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional report in WWD Thursday. Tesler joined Givenchy in In any case, Gobbetti takes on issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, March, April, September, October and December; and Gobbetti joins the French fash- September 1999 from Nike a brand whose road to rejuvena- three additional issues in August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., ion house, part of LVMH Moët France, and at that time was the tion has been rocky since founder Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice- Hennessy Louis Vuitton, from French group’s only female brand Hubert de Givenchy retired in President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice- Moschino, where he has been ceo president. Prior to Nike, she had 1995. After a brief stint by John President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General since 1993. He is expected to start an eight-year career at Whirlpool. Galliano, who moved on to Chris- Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing in the coming weeks. During her tenure, Tesler as- tian Dior, Alexander McQueen offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096- RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. In a statement, LVMH chair- signed licenses for eyewear and was the first to try his hand. But POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. man Bernard Arnault said Gob- footwear and cut unwanted li- his enfant-terrible ways and eclec- FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR betti’s 20 years of international censing pacts in Japan as part of tic collections — space aliens one DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is experience in fashion and leather a campaign to clarify the position season, rockabilly the next — required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production goods would be “a key asset to the of the brand worldwide. failed to galvanize the house as it correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, second stage of the development It is understood that LVMH struggled to find a customer base please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild at Givenchy. This appointment re- remains committed to couture and consistent image. magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully flects the strategic importance of and plans to continue upgrading Macdonald has had problems screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. the prestigious Givenchy brand the Givenchy image. The house of his own. Although he went back WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED for the LVMH Group.” recently appointed its first men’s to a style rooted in French ele- MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND Prior to Moschino, Gobbetti artistic director, Ozwald Boateng, gance and sophistication, detrac- TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART worked at Bottega Veneta in the who will apply his Savile Row tors said his collections lacked WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED U.S. and Valextra in Italy. experience to Givenchy starting the insouciance that made TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. “I am very happy to become with the spring-summer 2005 Hepburn’s style so alluring. The part of the LVMH Group and to season. The beauty business also press and retail reaction has been have the opportunity to continue has been under renovation with tepid and fashion’s revolving door the development of Givenchy, a more back-to-the-roots direc- is expected to spin again. one of fashion’s most important tion. Liv Tyler has been cast as a The European rumor mill is In Brief and prestigious brands,” Gobbetti young, modern Audrey Hepburn already in high gear, with the list told WWD. for such launches as the Very of potential candidates for Given- ● PPI POSTPONED: The U.S. Department of Labor postponed the Arnault also thanked the out- Irresistible Givenchy fragrance. chy ranging from Alber Elbaz and release of its Producer Price Index for the month of January on going Tesler for reorganizing the But it could not immediately Viktor & Rolf to Roland Mouret Thursday due to “unexpected difficulties” associated with a major company and laying “the founda- be learned what will happen in and Josephus Thimister. reclassification of the index. The PPI, which measures wholesale tion for future development.” An the women’s fashion department. — Miles Socha producer prices, was last revised in 1987 and does not fully cap- ture growing industry segments such as services, according to economists, who claim the primary focus has been on manufactur- ing. The government is converting all of its industry indices to the more up-to-date North American Industry Classification System. Polo Promotes Botbol Nordstrom Profits The Consumer Price Index, a closely watched gauge of inflation, will not be converted because it is a market-basket index. The CPI To Women’s Design Head Vault 73.8% in Qtr. for January is expected to be released today. ● INFO FOR ANN: Joe Caracappa has been named senior vice NEW YORK — Polo Ralph Lauren has made a By Jennifer Weitzman president, chief information officer for Ann Taylor, succeeding shift in command within the ranks of its women’s Wolly Morin, who was serving as interim cio, after being pulled out design team, with Michel Botbol taking leader- NEW YORK — Nordstrom’s strategic initiatives, of retirement. Caracappa will report to Barry Erdos, senior execu- ship of the collection from Max Wilson, who for- which began three years ago, continued to generate tive vice president and chief operating officer. The search was con- mally resigned last week. operating improvements, as the Seattle-based up- ducted by Gail E. Amsterdam, president and founder of Botbol, a former creative director of Harper’s scale department store reported a 73.8 percent Amsterdam Associates. Caracappa joins Ann Taylor from Footstar, Bazaar and fashion director of W, WWD’s sister boost in its fourth-quarter net profits. where he held senior management roles including senior vice publication, before that, began working for For the three months ended Jan. 31, the retailer president, cio. Earlier, he worked at Sandoz Pharmaceuticals and Lauren as a full-time consultant in 2001 before said income rose to $104.3 million, or 74 cents a di- Andersen Consulting. becoming creative director there in 2002. luted share, blowing past the consensus estimate of He will now head the women’s collection as 66 cents. Last year, the retailer reported earnings of ● MAY JOINS TOO: William E. May has been named executive vice design director, a spokeswoman for the company $60 million, or 44 cents. president and chief operating officer of Too Inc., responsible for confirmed on Thursday. Cosmetics and accessories helped drive sales for human resources, real estate, information technology, logistics and Botbol is said to have played an increasingly the quarter up 10.4 percent, to $1.93 billion from finance activities. As chief operating officer, he succeeds Kent A. important role in the direction of the women’s $1.75 billion, and ahead 8.5 percent on a compara- Kleeberger, who has relinquished that role, but will remain execu- collections under Lauren’s design since Wilson ble-store sales basis, exceeding the store’s 2 to 4 tive vice president and chief financial officer, secretary and treas- indicated he was leaving to pursue other artistic percent comp plan. Gross profits improved 350 urer, reporting to May. The company said Kleeberger requested re- interests. Wilson, who was vice president of de- basis points, driven by strong sell-throughs and sig- duced responsibility to allow more time to devote to family issues. sign for the women’s collection, could not be nificant markdown improvement, offset by a 50- Most recently, May was president and chief executive of wholesale reached on Thursday. basis-point increase in selling, general and admin- for Fleming Cos. Earlier, he was vice president of Gap Global As design director, Botbol will report to Ralph istrative expenses. The upward movement in SG&A Distribution. Lauren, chairman and chief executive officer of reflected higher than expected performance-based Polo, and Buffy Birrittella, executive vice presi- incentive compensation expense. dent of women’s design and advertising. On a late afternoon conference call, Blake Nord- Wilson had been with the company since strom, president, called 2003 “a pivotal year for our 1993, when he joined the women’s design team company. The prior couple of years were really Correction from that of Calvin Klein Inc. In 1997, he took about putting the building blocks in place to support A photo on page 12, Thursday, was miscaptioned Marshall Leigh. over the women’s team from Maggie Norris, who and drive the long-term success of the company. In It is from Geova. left to pursue her signature collection. Continued on page 12 Keep your skin in A Perfect World™

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To find out where you can experience Origins call 1-800-ORIGINS or visit us at www.origins.com Origins Natural Resources Inc Origins Natural Resources © 4 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2004 The Beauty Report Comme des Garçons Europe’s Newest Fragrances omme des Garçons will introduce CSynthetic, its sixth scent series, PARIS — A new wave of eaux will flood the market this spring and summer. Here’s a look at what worldwide in April. The five-fragrance line is made up of unisex Balmain, Comme des Garçons, Salvador Dali and Yohji Yamamoto are concocting. By Brid Costello eaux de toilette inspired by synthetic odors. “It is taking the idea of anti-perfume, which we first launched with Odeur 53 and Odeur 71 [fragrances], to the extreme,” said The Rubylips ad. Adrian Joffe, managing director at the firm, Parfums Balmain whose beauty business is owned by Puig almain will get a new men’s scent targeting the 25-and-up Beauty & Fashion Group. “Aimed at a Bcrowd in April. Called BalMan, the fragrance is meant to younger market, we wanted to create very help rejuvenate the brand’s image. modern fragrances inspired by daily life.” “[We want to show] that Balmain is not an old-fashioned brand,” The offbeat scents, called Tar, Skai, said Jean-Claude Le Rouzic, chairman of Parfums Balmain. Dryclean, Soda and Garage, target consumers The strategy to revitalize Balmain was kicked off in 2002, looking for something different in a fragrance. with the launch of the women’s scent Balmya. Yet while BalMan “We wanted to aim [Synthetic] at the young, and Balmya target a young audience, the new men’s fragrance individualistic, nonconformist market, [that’s] is not meant for teenagers. actually young and young at heart,” Joffe said. “Balmain has always been synonymous with chic and Joffe refused to divulge numbers, but elegance rather than [what is hip and cutting-edge],” said Gerard industry sources estimate the fragrances Pichon-Varin, the managing director at Parfums Balmain. could together ring up $1.3 million in their BalMan’s juice, a fresh, woody aromatic, was concocted by first year at retail. Givaudan’s Antoine Maisondieu. It includes notes of mandarin, Givaudan created Garage, Tar and Soda. lavender, thyme, sage, tonka beans, licorice cardamom and musks. Salvador Dali Garage comprises “plastic-floral notes,” plus The scent’s glass bottle, by Alban Behagle, is faceted and notes of laurel aldehyde, traces of kerosene, topped with a purple cap. These facets are morphed into a his year marks the centenary of Salvador Dali’s leather, vetiver acetate and Chinese runway shot of a Balmain men’s fashion show in the Tbirth. And to celebrate the event, Confinluxe, cedarwood. Tar includes notes of “town gas,” advertisement. The idea, said Pichon-Varin, is to emphasize holder of the artist’s fragrance license, will introduce vapors of bitumen, bergamot, earth, the link Balmain’s fragrances have with its fashion. the women’s scent Rubylips, starting in April. opopanax, styrax, grilled cigarettes and The ad campaign will come in single-page ads in France Lips, often depicted in Dali’s art, are pyrogenic notes. Soda features notes of lime, and also be present in stores. prominently featured in the scent’s packaging and citral, pimenal, lilial, aldehydes, iso-eugenol, While Balmain refused to talk numbers, industry sources advertising. One red-tinted side of Rubylips’ galaxolide and rum acetal. estimate the fragrance could generate $5.7 million at current bottle, for example, features five engraved pairs International Flavors and Fragrances exchange rates, or 4.5 million euros, in retail volume in 2004. of lips. Each is meant to represent one of the created Dryclean and Skai. Dryclean has The eau de toilette will come in 50- and 100-ml. spray senses, explained Jean-Pierre Grivory, notes of ozone, aldehydes, nail polish, bay bottles that will sell for $50.70, or 40 euros, and $73.50, or 58 Confinluxe’s president and chief executive officer. leaf essence, rose oxide, metallic incense, euros, respectively, in France. The line will also have a hair- “The mouth theme brings a certain sensuality dissolvent vapors and gaiac wood. Skai and-body shampoo, an aftershave balm and a deodorant. that translates into a fragrance that is [sparkling] comprises “PVC notes,” plus notes of ozone, BalMan will bow in Europe and the U.S., through and sensual,” he said. methyl grapefruit, coal tar, cardamom, white Nordstrom doors, in April. Worldwide rollout is planned Rubylips’ advertising features Brazilian leather, sandalwood and labdanum. through September. actress Camila Pitanga, who will also appear in In line with the fragrances’ synthetic concept, other Dali fragrance campaigns. In the visual for the scents come in plastic bottles. The juices The BalMan range. the single-page Rubylips ads, she has highly themselves are contained in vacuum-packed glossed red lips and is lying next to a bottle of pouches that shrink in the flacons with use. the scent. A pink-tinted sky — yet another Each 75-ml. eau de toilette will sell for reference to Dali’s art — is in the background. $49.40, or 39 euros, in France. Samples, including 4-ml. miniatures and 2-ml. vials, plus point-of-sale animations, will support the launch. Grivory refused to talk numbers, but industry sources estimate Rubylips could make $3 million in wholesale volume in the first year after launch. The eau de toilette will come as 30-, 50- and 100-ml. sprays that will sell for $38, or 30 euros; $53.25, or 42 euros, and $74.80, or 59 euros, respectively. The ancillary line will comprise a deodorant and a soap. Rubylips will be launched in Europe in April. The U.S. is slated to get the scent in the second half of this year. The new Comme des Garçons scents.

Ya mamoto’s signature also decorates the bottle. Yohji Yamamoto Parfums Yo hji Yamamoto Pour Femme’s juice, a ohji Yamamoto’s newest fragrance — Yohji woody floral, was mixed by Givaudan’s Nathalie YYamamoto Pour Femme, due out this summer Feisthauer. It comprises top notes of cardamom, — is meant to evoke a feeling of discovery. coriander, mandarin and chamomile. Heart “[The] experience people have when they first notes include Turkish rose, heliotrope and encounter [Yamamoto’s] creations is a feeling of jasmine, while base notes are amber, patchouli delight of discovery,” said Christopher West, and georgy wood. global brand manager for Yohji Yamamoto The fragrance’s advertising campaign, Parfums, whose license is held by conceived by Yamamoto and the Procter & Gamble Prestige Callegary Berville Grey agency, Beauté. “We tried to find a was shot by photographer Eric way to make the delight of Traoré and will be produced in discovery come alive in every single and double pages. The element of the fragrance.” ads feature model Kathrin Wer- Take the scent’s outer deritsch holding the fragrance. packaging. Not smooth like There will also be LiquaTouch most fragrances’, it has fabric- and 2-ml. Sophilux samples. like texture and is covered West refused to talk numbers, with mother-of-pearl-tinted but industry sources estimate plastic wrap. Yohji Yamamoto Pour Femme. the fragrance could generate The fragrance’s bottle, created by Yamamoto $10 million in wholesale volume in its first year and Henry de Monclin, of Ateliers Dinand, is a on shelves. “deconstructed twist,” West explained. From the The eau de parfum will come as 30-, 50- and front, the clear, heavy glass bottle appears 75-ml. sprays that will retail for $57, or 45 euros; square. But from the back, the flacon seems to $69.70, or 55 euros, and $82.40, or 65 euros, be sloping forward. respectively, in Europe. Its ancillary line includes “It’s inspired by how [Yamamoto] creates a shower gel, body lotion and deodorant. fashion,” said West, adding the designer often works Yohji Yamamoto Pour Femme will bow in Japan fabric from the back of a design toward the front. July 1. Its European rollout is slated for early fall. WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2004 5

Surf’s Up at Ralph Lauren Darland to Join Christian Dior NEW YORK — Terry Darland, a 15-year vet- Perfumes and Cosmetics Group. She will By Kristin Finn The Ralph Cool ad. eran of the Estée Lauder Cos., will join take responsibility for Dior in Potier’s NEW YORK — Ralph Christian Dior Perfumes Inc. this month as absence. Lauren is still surfing senior vice president in charge of marketing, Darland’s last post at Lauder was vice the teen scene and rid- sales and sales education. president of sales and national sales manager ing new waves to at- Darland, who will begin work March 22, of Prescriptives and Kate Spade Beauty. She tract another girl. will assume many of the duties previously per- began with the company in the Clinique divi- Three years after formed by Bernard Potier, who has stepped sion in the field, then moved to New York as a the launch of its teen- down as president and chief executive officer vice president and sales manager of targeting scent Ralph of Dior and is awaiting reassignment from par- Prescriptives. — named after the ent LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Darland later joined Baxter at Aramis as Ralph by Ralph Laur- Potier has been at the helm of Dior’s U.S vice president of sales and national sales en junior line — the business since November 1999. Previously, he manager of the Aramis and Tommy Hilfiger brand is preparing to had been international managing director of brands. She subsequently became vice presi- launch a new scent in Dior in Paris and he has been with the French- dent of marketing of Hilfiger and Aramis, June. The new girl, based company for more than 25 years. launching the Tommy Girl fragrance, before Ralph Cool, is playful, At Dior, Darland will report to Pamela returning to Prescriptives as vice president trendy, energetic, Baxter, another Lauder veteran who last of sales and national sales manager. sporty, a little bit out- year joined LVMH as president of the U.S. —Pete Born spoken and adventur- ous, while older sister, Ralph, her sophisti- cated counterpart, is preppy, a little more relaxed, confident and Bourjois Poised to Grow U.S. Business optimistic. “The youth market NEW YORK — This year, Bourjois is out to is really important and add a little volume not only to the mascara they, even more than business, but also to its U.S. business. their older sisters or The French cosmetics brand, which is held mothers, really require by Chanel, is in just 150 U.S. doors right now newness,” said Andrea — but its U.S. general manager, Claire Laurin, Q. Robinson, president of Ralph Lauren Fragrances Worldwide at L’Oréal plans to change that by yearend 2004. Bourjois USA. “We are about three years out from the launch of Ralph — a really has been in the U.S. since 1999, although it great fragrance that’s still in the top 10.” She added, “The whole surfer had a short run as an exclusive brand at thing has taken on a lot of velocity, so we felt there was a real opportunity Galeries Lafayette when the retailer entered to appeal to a different lifestyle, which doesn’t necessarily mean a surfer the U.S. market with a Trump Tower store in lifestyle but just a cooler lifestyle from the original Ralph.” 1991. The retailer exited the U.S. in 1994. Bourjois’ Pump Up the Volume range. The target audience for Ralph Cool is expected to range between 15 Upon its return to U.S. shores, Bourjois to 25 years old, while Ralph has attracted a customer that is between 25 bowed at Sephora’s since-closed Rockefeller ultra-volumizing mascara. It contains sili- and 30 years old. “We developed this as an entirely new fragrance and Center flagship. However, the retailer and its cone, for maximum coating of the lashes, as hope to appeal to a slightly different audience and the market is just as Web site continue to make up the majority of well as a quick-drying effect that discourages huge as it was when we launched Ralph,” said Robinson, referring to the brand’s U.S. distribution, although it is clumping; microbeads, which lay on the lash- findings that the youth market is “buying $9 billion worth of fragrances, also in other selected doors, including Ulta. es and add volume, and a mix of waxes and an toiletries and cosmetics every year. We felt we had a real opportunity to Bourjois was, for a time, in selected Macy’s alkaline polymer to add length to the lashes. do more in this area.” West doors, although Laurin noted she believes The formula is delivered with a brush that is According to industry sources Ralph Cool could do as much as $20 the brand is best suited to specialty store doors, a mix of nylon fibers — a carrying fiber that million in its first year at retail. Together Ralph and Ralph Cool are ex- particularly in the U.S. “That’s really where applies the mascara and separates the lashes, pected to generate sales of $45 million in 2004, sources said. our customer can be found,” she said. “Going and a fiber that coats the lashes and intensi- Ralph Cool, described as “a lush sexy floral” contains top notes of forward, the stores that we expand into will fies the volume, said Laurin. kiwi, iced nectarine, watermelon and cucumber peel, middle notes of most likely be specialty stores.” The standard formula launches in May; a linden blossom, honeysuckle, jasmine and lily of the valley and base Laurin plans to boost the brand’s current waterproof version of Pump Up the Volume notes of creamy musk, sheer vetiver and sensual woods. door count of 150 up to 250 by the end of this will be marketed in June. The standard ver- “It really combines all the elements that our target audience finds year; most of those doors will be added during sion will be available in five colors, and the cool, from the juicy nectar playing on the trend of fruit notes coming the second half of this year, she said. “This will waterproof form will be offered in four colors. out in vitamin waters to the floral heart playing up the flirty feminine definitely be a year where we will expand,” Each retails for $13 per tube. side and then the skin like sexiness [of the bottom notes] because this said Laurin. “But we won’t be everywhere.” While Laurin wouldn’t comment on pro- young consumer shows more skin,” said Doreen Bollhofer, vice presi- The brand’s next launch, coming in May, jected first-year sales, sources estimated the dent of global fragrance development for the brand. “Like the origi- plays to one of the 141-year-old brand’s great- mascara could do upward of $1 million at nal Ralph, it does have a mouthwatering element, but it’s a little est strengths: mascara. The new formula, retail in its first year on counter. more juicy.” Pump Up the Volume, is being touted as an — Julie Naughton Continued on page 8

and a fresh and lightly aquatic side on the other. The head note combines mandarine and kiwi with cactus Davidoff Reaches New Depths juice for an aquatic touch. The heart features the cit- rus bouquet of the elemi tree, muscatel sage and cedar at 21.50 euros, $27.33, needles, and the base blends Venezuelan gaiac and By Melissa Drier and the 75-g deodorant Japanese hinoki woods, plus white musk and extracts stick at 19.50 euros, of the cystus bush. HAMBURG, Germany — Lancaster is getting ready to $24.79. All figures have Thierry de Baschmakoff designed the wave- plunge into new consumer waters with its latest been converted at the inspired bottle of blue glass with a brushed metal top Davidoff men’s scent, Cool Water Deep. current rate of exchange. and yoke (The top inch of the bottle is metal), packaged Since its 1988 launch, the Davidoff Cool Water fra- The range is due to in a box of ombre blue. grance brand has generated sales of “$1.75 billion dol- hit the shelves first in The iconic Cool Water man is no longer fighting lars to date, and still counting,” according to Lancaster Germany and then in against the force and rush of the ocean, but in Enrique executives. While young men aged 18 to 30 have made Europe from March Badulescu’s advertising image for Cool Water Deep, he’s Davidoff Cool Water a classic and the long-running until May 2004, with a seen emerging from the depth of the ocean towards the number-one men’s scent in Germany, not to mention a roll-out to the U.S. and light, his head and body completely immersed in the top-10 seller worldwide, Cool Water Deep has a some- Asia following in Sept- water. The photographer spent seven hours under water, what more mature man in its sights. ember. While Lancaster and shot 2,000 photos of the model Dayton as he pushed As its name suggests, Deep addresses a quieter, would not discuss first- his ways upwards. However, the ocean floor, in this Davidoff Cool Water Deep more inward-looking fellow, one who’s found his own year sales goals, indus- instance, was located in the Bronx. The crew took over interior serenity and strength, Lancaster said, and try observers said that Deep could generate about a Fordham University’s swimming pool, using simple, who strives for a balance between body and mind. third of Cool Water’s annual turnover or $30 million blue tarpaulins to create a very blue, deep sea effect. Aged 25 years and older, he also has more upscale in sales its first year. Cool Water was one of the first men’s scents to use tastes, which he is willing to pay for. Opening price The juice was created by Nathalie Lorson of television advertising, but Deep’s TV ad plan has not points for Cool Water Deep are about 10 percent over Firmenich, who also has Chopard’s Wish and Pure yet been confirmed, Hugues de la Chevasnerie, vice- Cool Water. The 50-ml. eau de toilette natural spray is Wish, Sensations by Jil Sander, Zen from Shiseido and president of international marketing for Davidoff priced at 45 euros or $51.19, with the 100-ml. version Isa Bella from Coty to her credit. Cool Water Deep is a said. The Deep launch will be supported by heavy running 63 euros, $80.08, the 100-ml. aftershave splash two-sided fragrance, she said, built around the depth, sampling, print and outdoor ads as well as POS and at 41 euros, $52.11, the 200-ml. hair and body shampoo comfort and warmth of wood components on one hand, shop window displays. 6 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2004 The Beauty Report

Lori Bush talks about new A Nu Skin store in China. products at a recent convention. Nu Skin Celebrates 20 Years NEW YORK — Nu Skin Enterprises started with a sim- of some 340 of them so far. Not only does the direct sell- ple formula. er have a million-dollar sales group, it has a $10 million New Nu Skin Twenty years ago, the founders set out to create skin sales group. “We have paid out more than $4 billion in products care products emphasizing “good-for-you” ingredients. commissions” since the company began, noted Recalled Sandra Tillotson: “We were one of the first to Tillotson. Roney said Nu Skin still pays a higher com- say no to mineral oils, waxes and isopropyl alcohol.” mission — 43 percent — than do most direct sellers. They turned their attention, she said, “to emerging re- At the beginning, to get people to try their unknown search on ingredients such as humectin and aloe.” products, the founders would treat potential customers Blake Roney came in to partner with Tillotson and with half-face facials, so as to compare the treated skin his sister, who actually brought the trio together, al- with untreated skin. The company still emphasizes the though soon after she stepped back from the operation. show-me, rather than tell-me, approach. Roney, a graduate of Brigham Young University, had Lori Bush says that Nu Skin’s associates are a highly planned to go to law school. Instead, he spent $5 on a educated group and would prefer to hear about how a directory of 800 numbers and started calling compa- product works from a Stanford physician than a nies to find a manufacturer for their formulas. spokesmodel. “Nu Skin is about serious skin care,” she Still based in Provo, Utah, Nu Skin Enterprises now says. “I think we set ourselves apart in our ability to contains three divisions. Nu Skin is the beauty operation, bring newness and innovation by way of our channel.” headed by Lori Bush, its president; Pharmanex is a nutri- Its professional advisory board includes two of the tional and vitamin outfit, and Big Planet is a technology world’s 25 ethno-botanists, she said. Their respective operation used to develop systems and tools to aid the expertise is in South Pacific and South American cul- sales associates and run the business more efficiently. tures. The research involves the use of plants and in- that after acquiring the Pharmanex business in 1998, Sales of the Nu Skin and Pharmanex divisions are gredients indigenous to those parts of the world, and the products were taken off store shelves and put into nearly equal. Nu Skin went public in 1996 and last year that information has fueled the development of Nu the hands of its sales team and sales doubled the fol- the company reported sales of $986.5 million, up from Skin’s Epoch product line. lowing year. “When the average consumer walked $964.1 million in 2002. It has 600,000 active sales repre- At its sales convention in Salt Lake City, which began into the local drugstore and saw the mountain of sentatives in 34 countries. It has made millionaires out Wednesday and runs through Sunday, Nu Skin executives products, they didn’t have a clue how to differentiate will celebrate the company’s 20th anniver- them,” he said. The nutritional business is a comple- sary. Some 10,000 reps are expected to attend ment to the beauty business. “It became apparent to and will be exposed to new products like us that people were becoming more conscious that Polishing Peel — said to deliver the benefits how they eat and how they treat their bodies affects of a professional dermabrasion treatment — how they look,” he said. and a second generation of its Galvanic Spa Nu Skin has developed a tool — the Pharmanex System for at-home facials. A major driver of Biophotonic Laser Scanner — that can measure the CLEAR THE WAY… Nu Skin, noted Bush, “is to put beauty in the level of carotenoids present in the body. The instrument balance,” meaning offering beauty tools that shoots a “low-intensity laser into the palm of a hand can be easily adapted into a person’s daily and, based upon how the blue light refracts off the tis- routine. They also will be presented the sue,” reveals the level, said Hunt. Profiler software system, an in-depth ques- Nu Skin also is launching a major Internet initiative tionnaire that enables associates to better tai- this week. Big Planet Mall, or Bpmall.com, will sell “a lor a customer’s skin care regimen. variety of branded products,” but none that will com- CREED FRAGRANCES’ Skin care is its strongest category and to pete with Nu Skin’s product lines, said Hunt. strengthen its fledgling color business, Nu Today, Tillotson and Roney have removed them- Skin is launching products this year that in- selves from day-to-day operations and instead have corporate its skin care technology. The Nu taken up the company’s myriad charitable causes LIQUIDATION SALE Colour Replenishing lipstick range will con- through its Force for Good Foundation. Nu Skin funds tain a patented antioxidant ingredient that research to cure the children’s disease Epidermolysis is used in its antiage skin care product. Hair Bullosa; has established orphanages and provides 50% OFF care is another area being addressed with meals worldwide for hungry children through its the Nutriol collection, relaunched featuring Nourish the Children program. Its sales representatives a new marine-based ingredient. The focus in heavily donate to the fund-raising efforts and are en- on promoting hair follicle and scalp health, couraged to participate in local efforts in their commu- for abundant-looking hair. nities. With several reps earning high incomes, re- (CHEAPER THAN THE INTERNET) Nu Skin’s largest market is Japan, rep- marked Tillotson, “after you buy the car and your resenting 56.6 percent of sales, followed by house, we give them a great avenue to make great dona- the U.S. with 11.5 percent. Taiwan ac- tions. We have many that will donate $40,000.” counts for 7.4 percent and South Korea, 6 Roney said he thinks Nu Skin has “everything in percent. China, where it operates stores place to double” its sales in the next five years. But the because of government restrictions on di- success of the company will only be meaningful if it rect selling, is 3.9 percent of sales. Nu Skin continues to give back. He said he speaks several times 212-228-1732 recently opened in Poland and expects fur- a year around the world at the company’s regional 9 Bond Street (at Lafayette) ther Eastern European growth. “We are re- meetings. “I kind of go and try to keep everybody glued 680 Madison Avenue (at 61st) ally looking forward to expanding into to our values,” he said. “I am hoping we have turned 897 Madison Avenue (at 73rd) Russia,” said Bush. into a kind of charity organization. I want us to be the M. Truman Hunt, president and chief do-good company in the world.” executive of Nu Skin Enterprises, noted — Laura Klepacki WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2004 7 Body & Soul: Retrospective Color TOPNOTES PRESTIGE LUSTER: Total U.S. NEW YORK — When Tao Miller set out to department store sales of create a makeup artist-inspired color line Body & Soul Lip Quad fragrance, skin care and makeup in 1998, he was stunned by the sameness of edged up 2 percent in 2003, the existing lines. reaching the $7.5 billion mark in Miller decided to dip into the past to build volume, according to NPD Group. his future. Using packaging popular in the Skin care and makeup both grew Forties and Fifties, Miller found a unique in terms of sales and market look for his line he called Body & Soul. share, while fragrance sales and “I studied old magazines and looked at market share continued to thrift shops and garage sales,” said Miller, a decline. Leading the growth last native of Sweden who went to Hawaii on year was skin care, a category that vacation and stayed to open a retail busi- expanded 6 percent in dollar sales ness. The result was innovative packaging to $2 billion, its best performance such as lip gloss in old-fashioned tins and since 2000, NPD noted. Skin face powder in talc tins. A glamorous char- care unit sales rose 1 percent. acter called Gigi clad Meanwhile, dollar sales of in 1940s garb is fea- makeup grew 4 percent in 2003 tured on packaging. to $2.6 billion, while unit sales of The cosmetics are Critical Mass makeup increased 2 percent. On named after Miller’s the down side, fragrance sales slid fashionable boutique By Faye Brookman 2 percent to $2.8 billion, while in Hawaii, which he unit sales of fragrances dropped 6 opened in 1992 with percent. NPD cited new his life’s savings. He knew the power of strawberry field,” he said. fragrances, especially those from selling beauty after securing the Hawaiian Heim said Caboodles would also launch floral olfactive families, as helping distribution of lines such as Nars that were new advertising to help it regain distribu- to mitigate further losses within scant on the islands. He quickly racked up tion lost in the past two years. Caboodles the category. NPD also noted that beauty sales of $2.3 million through sales of suffered not only from a shakeout in teen average price has increased across cosmetics via export and the store. beauty, but internal problems as it lost its the three categories during the Now Body & Soul is sold in most Sephora president last June and was sold to an in- last five years, causing dollar sales stores, specialty boutiques and spas. There is vestment group. The company will tie into gains to outpace unit sales. also an e-commerce site and international an upcoming film called “Ella Enchanted” distribution. Body & Soul is sold in Japan and starring Anne Hathaway, an actress best FARN, LANCASTER DEAL ENDED: A will launch in Mexico this month. Industry known for her role in “The Princess six-year distribution agreement sources estimate new distribution in 2004 Diaries.” between Lancaster and Gary Farn could lift sales beyond the $5 million mark. ●●● Ltd. has been terminated, the firms Spas offer a ripe avenue of growth for The General Merchandise Distributors said Thursday. Gary Farn has been Miller. “We find the clientele at spas very re- Council is introducing a new feature at its distributing the Jil Sander and ceptive to our line,” said Miller who counts Body & Soul pencils upcoming conference, which will be held Vivienne Westwood fragrance many Ritz Carlton spas as clients. Color cos- June 4-8 in Orlando. Fla. Called The brands, for which Lancaster is the metics are still relatively new to spa retail ●●● Showcase, this new program will allow re- licensee. “Gary Farn has done a and Body & Soul is capitalizing on that void. Caboodles Cosmetics has tapped Jim tailers to enter a private room near the terrific job of marketing and Body & Soul also has a loyal following Heim to serve as president and chief oper- business meetings to review new products, distributing our specialty brands,” with celebrities such as Lisa Kudrow, ating officer. Heim is a beauty industry vet- displays and promotions. Only buyers will said Bob Cankes, president of Ashley Judd and Cameron Diaz. Makeup eran who has worked at Maybelline, have access to The Showcase, where they Lancaster Group US. “However, artists for shows such as “Scrubs” and Yardley and other cosmetics firms. will use a bar-code reader to scan items of with the acquisition of the Marc “Friends” have used Body & Soul products. Retailers attending this week’s Efficient interest. After the conference, the data will Jacobs and Kenneth Cole licenses, The selection includes lipsticks in Promotion Planning Sessions in Dallas wel- be made available to buyers online. we have put an organization in place cream and matte, lip gloss, lip liner, make- comed Heim and hoped he could inject life Suppliers will be provided online listings of to handle these brands internally. up, cover-up, face powder, eye shadow, eye- back into Caboodles. “I know these retail- buyers interested in their products. We have grown very fond of Alison liner, brow powder, rouge, mascara, nail ers and want to give them what they need,” This is just one of many new technology [Farn, President of Gary Farn] and lacquers and beauty tools. Price points said Heim. “We are instituting a lot of developments in mass market trade shows. her team, and are grateful for their range from $16.50 for lip colors to $35 for a changes in formulations to make the quality As the industry becomes more competitive outstanding performance.” two-in-one face powder. The products are better. We will have greater fragrance and and demands on buyers’ time increases, hypoallergenic and designed for most skin flavors so that when a customer opens a both suppliers and retailers are turning to IFF CHANGES: Neil Humphreys, vice tones, said Miller. strawberry product, she feels she’s in a technology to ease the information crunch. president of global business development for flavors and functional fragrances at International Flavors & Fragrances, will retire March 31, the company Victoria Jackson, Markwins Link Up on Mass Retail Line said. Humphreys, a 30-year veteran of the flavors and fragrances industry, NEW YORK — Makeup artist Victoria “What we are doing,” explained Jack- message to inmates in women’s prisons. has been with IFF for six years. Upon Jackson spun color-coordinated cosmetics son, “is taking the color-coordinated kit For Markwins, the agreement with Jack- Humphreys' retirement, Jim Dunsdon, kits into a $500 million television and cata- concept with the ‘how-to’ element to retail. son is a perfect fit. Both are California opera- who is vice president of global logue business, but what she has always Because it really doesn’t exist.” tions with experience with color kits. account sales and regional manager, really wanted was a product line widely Jackson said she has to credit her suc- Markwins will manufacture and distribute North America, will be appointed available at retail. cess to “taking the guesswork out of cos- the line, noted George. senior vice president of global In the fourth quarter of this year, her metics.” She said she would be willing to Also an author, Jackson’s books and business development for flavors and dream is coming true. Markwins Inter- do store appearances and other events to videotapes will be part of the assortment functional fragrances, a new post. national, the rapidly growing help promote the launch. and merchandised in the beauty department California beauty firm best “Absolutely, I will do whatever as part of the planogram, he said. Don’t MILBAR MOVE: Scott Whittier has known for its blockbuster is required.” Already, accord- expect Victoria Jackson cosmetics to be been appointed senior director of train cases, has forged a deal ing to Bill George, president of everywhere at once though. “We are going to scientific marketing, a new with Jackson to jointly launch Markwins, Jackson is slated to have a methodical launch,” said George. position, at Milbar Laboratories, her signature line in the mass appear at the NACDS Market- The target customer is 35 to 54 with a which is a division of market. place meeting in San Diego household income of $50,000 and up. Print Dermatologic Cosmetic The new Victoria Jackson in June. advertising will appear in beauty books with Laboratories. Whittier will report Cosmetics line will borrow “This is a tried-and-true a focus on makeup instruction like Glamour to Gus Bezas, senior vice heavily from her original. concept,” noted Jackson, “it and Allure, or those that highlight celebri- president of sales and marketing. Color kits, based on her peach, was test marketed, so to speak, ties such as In Style. First-year sales are pro- Whittier had previously worked at pink and red themed palettes Victoria Jackson on television.” In 2001, Jack- jected at $5 million with expectations that Nu Skin International and at Zila and her popular foundation, son also launched Lola, a revenues will double the following year. Pharmaceutical Inc.. available in light, medium, tan and dark, department store line that is now available For Markwins, the Victoria Jackson will be the centerpieces of the effort. To in 150 doors including Sephora and Harvey project is the latest in the company’s push MONEY MAKEOVERS: Versace start, the line will launch with seven kits, Nichols. “Lola is more my artistry line and to develop a branded business, to comple- Profumi’s Milan-based priced $7 to $20. Next year, it will be Victoria Jackson, more my how to,” she ment its color kits operation. Last year, the international beauty expert, expanded into a full collection with some said, adding, “Anything that I do has to be firm acquired AM Cosmetics, bringing sev- Roberta Giorgi, was on hand Feb. 108 stockkeeping units, priced $4 to $12. of quality, whether it is $4 or $40.” eral mass brands including Wet ‘n’ Wild 13 at the Versace Boutique in Components will be shiny black with a Jackson has supported a philosophy of and Black Radiance into its fold. And Beverly Hills. In the four hours high gloss finish, and outer packaging will empowerment for women. Makeup, she says, Markwins is expected to announce another Giorgi was there, the boutique incorporate Jackson’s trademark simple and can help women look better, which will make licensing deal in the next few weeks. rung up more than $10,000 in user-friendly makeup tips. them feel better. Jackson has even taken her — L.K. cosmetics sales. 8 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2004 The HBA Report Chicago Strikes Gold With New Spa Emilio Rivera and Scott Wilker

By Kristin Larson A look into Salon Duo Spa. CHICAGO — Situated in a Twenties-era building once owned by Al Capone, there is nothing disquieting about the newly opened Salon Duo Spa in Chicago’s tony Gold Coast neighborhood. With windows facing Lake Michigan, the view from the spa, located on 1400 North Lake Shore Drive, looks just as peaceful as the soothing treatments and atmos- phere found inside. And that’s just the idea, noted Emilio Rivera, the Spanish-born owner, who designed the 1,100-square- foot spa with the idea of creating a relaxing vibe for guests even before they are professionally relaxed, cleaned and buffed. Rivera, who often sports Prada suits and Gucci loafers, is co-owner with Scott Wilker, a former art director. Rivera said too many spas today feel corporate, and he wanted to completely move away from that. “It’s about feeling like you’re going to your best friend’s home for the day and you feel relaxed once you arrive. Relaxation starts from the inside out, so setting a mood as soon as customers walk in the door is impor- tant,” said Rivera, 35, whose inspiration for the decor massages, and each of the rooms’ ceilings are draped in and pedicures start at $22 and $42, respectively. came from the Ritz-Carlton Hotel Spa in Paris and the white sheer panels for a soft, peaceful effect. For customers on the run, treatments can be dou- American Club in Kohler, Wisc. The spa specializes in seasonal treatments, such as bled up to save time, such as a facial and massage To fashion a cozy spa environment, the walls are the pumpkin revitalizing body treatment and pumpkin ensemble or a facial with manicure and pedicure. painted a cheery lemon; personal details like toile- facial for colder months, an eggnog facial for the holiday There are five aestheticians, each of whom have a min- printed pillows, chandeliers, a built-in pedicure station season, and a strawberry-raspberry champagne pedi- imum of 20 years experience — something Rivera said is with an overstuffed couch, fresh flowers, calming music cure for Valentine’s Day. A popular treatment is the important in order to deliver the best customer service. and scented candles are featured, too. Personal Touch spray tan, made from sugar cane. The “My aestheticians are well traveled and they go to The spa is adjacent to the 3,200-square-foot salon, spa uses French Matis products, as well as the herbal- France to learn the latest techniques,” he said. “The which opened almost three years ago. The decor here based line Dr. Schwab. The spa’s retail area sells the service is very much focused on person-to-person.” is complementary with floral couches, French antiques Matis and Dr. Schwab products in addition to a large Standard offerings while at the spa include daily and fabulous artwork. selection of Illume candles. Retail sales account for homemade cookies and desserts, cappuccino, cham- “When we opened the salon, there was such a huge about 35 percent of the business, and services make up pagne and wine. But for customers who are a bit more demand for the spa, we wanted to make the treatment the remaining 65 percent. demanding, the spa can have lunch delivered: Smoked rooms as calming and relaxing as possible,” Rivera Prices range from $80 to $200 for facials; $95 for body salmon with crème fraîche and capers from the said. “I like elegant places that aren’t stuffy.” treatments; $48 for a half-hour massage to $110 for a 90- acclaimed Ambria in the Belden Stratford Residence There are three treatment rooms for facials and minute massage, and $50 for air-brush tanning. Manicures Hotel isn’t a problem. Ralph Lauren Gets Cool Woman First, Then A Girl That’s Fly Continued from page 5 NEW YORK — One beauty brand was not enough sortment that ranges in price from $6 for lip balm to The Ralph Cool product lineup includes a 1.7-oz. eau for Toronto-based beauty entrepreneurs Debra $32 for multi-item gift boxes. The collection’s 8-oz. de toilette spray that will retail for $39.50; a 3.4-oz. eau de Winter and Chazz Balkwill. So, after introducing body lotions are priced at $8 in the U.S. The gift toilette spray for $52.50; a 6.7-oz. body lotion for $24, and a Woman Cosmetics in 1999, the two launched Fly boxes, which have names like Love Story, Vacation 6.7-oz. shower gel for $27.50. Both ancillaries are lightly Girl, a colorful, character-driven line of lip balms in a Box and Girls Night Out, were introduced ear- scented with Ralph Cool. and nail polishes, in 2001. lier this month. Future Fly Girl launches include an The bright colors used in the packaging also play an This year, youth-oriented Fly Girl is projecting assortment of travel items for holiday and a collec- important role and set Ralph Cool apart from Ralph. The wholesale sales volume of $1.7 million, a 20 per- tion of men’s products, called — what else? — Fly eau de toilette bottles are hot pink with turquoise, yellow cent increase driven largely by expanded distribu- Boy. Five or six Fly Boy items are planned, includ- and green type and the carton was designed to coordinate tion of the brand but also by new product launches. ing shampoo, conditioner, hair gel and lip balm. and match. And while the original ancillaries featured With more of the same due next year, Winter esti- Woman Cosmetics features about 160 items, in- pastel shades of orange, green, purple, pink and mates Fly Girl could grow by as much as 47 per- cluding eye shadows, lipsticks, foundations and con- periwinkle blue, the Ralph Cool body lotion is bright cent in 2005. Woman Cosmetics cealers. It’s carried in a total of 75 yellow with a turquoise, green and hot pink logo, while currently yields twice the sales Some Fly creations. doors, including 12 Nordstrom lo- the shower gel is orange with a turquoise, yellow and hot Fly Girl generates, according to cations; five Les Ailes de la Mode pink logo. Winter, and both brands tallied stores in Canada, and independ- Ralph Cool will be launching in 2,200 doors, which up more than $5 million in whole- ent beauty boutiques. The line represents the company’s full distribution in the U.S. sale sales last year. ranges in price from $16 for “We chose this [time to launch] because spring is the time “Woman is the machine,” said Lipshine lip-gloss pots to $38 for of year when we can stand out.” The European launch is Winter, “but Fly Girl has taken facial shimmer powder. Lipsticks planned for August. off on its own.” cost about $20 while foundations The launch will be supported by approximately 30 Of the two brands, Fly Girl is go for $28. million scented impressions that include Liqui-touch clearly the cosmic wild child, Additionally, Toronto-based postcards and friendship bracelets to be scented at targeting 16- to 26-year-olds, Woman Co. operates three counter. Vials on card samples will be available following while Woman Cosmetics is the Woman Apothecary stores, in- the launch. The ad, shot by Regan Cameron and featuring sophisticated matriarch, target- cluding one in downtown Toronto model Lonneke in a beach setting, will break in June ing those between the ages of 25 and two in the greater Toronto books. Executives noted that the Ralph and Ralph Cool and 55. Indeed, Fly Girl was in- area. The shops carry a selection ads will appear in different magazines and though there spired by Winter’s desire to cre- of different beauty brands, in- will be some crossover, Robinson noted they will ate something “edgy enough that young girls will cluding Vincent Longo, Korres, Philosophy, Body & “differentiate and go into some places we haven’t been like and moms will say ‘that’s neat.’ It’s hard to Soul and Lucky Chick to name a few. before.” For example, only ads for Ralph Cool will appear have something groovy that parents like too.” Winter, who studied fashion design at the in Teen People and Seventeen. Robinson also added they Looking ahead, “the next step is slowly broad- Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and are “looking into college newspapers to do a campaign ening [Fly Girl’s] product range,” said Winter. Still, modeled for Ford Models, illustrated the futuristic, around that.” she noted, the biggest challenge has been keeping cartoon-like packaging for Fly Girl herself. Despite According to sources, the promotional war chest for Ralph up the pace of production given Fly Girl’s expand- the welcome creative outlet Fly Girl has afforded Cool could be as much as $15 million. ing distribution network. The brand is now carried her, she quipped that Balkwill, her business part- In addition to alternative advertising options, the in about 200 doors, including 70 Nordstrom stores ner, “would not let me stop working on Woman.” fragrance may be sold in alternative venues such as college in the U.S., 70 Boots’ Planet Diva departments in Balkwill, who is a hair stylist and makeup artist, bookstores and surf shops. “It’s more of a lifestyle idea,” the U.K.; nine Holt Renfrew locations in Canada, handles much of the business side of the brands. said Robinson of the Ralph brand, which added scented and Rustan’s in the Philippines. Winter is now in Recently, a new character — “Ginger, From Fly hair care to its lineup in fall 2003. “Next year we can do talks to roll out Fly Girl to at least two more U.S. World,” as Winter put it — was added to the exist- another lifestyle for this market and that’s the way we retailers this year, a move that could push the size ing cast of animated fly girls. “[Girls] call from intend to approach it.” She added that there are ideas in of Fly Girl’s distribution to 300 doors by yearend. around the world,” said Winter, “and they want a the pipeline for “products and other youth lifestyles as The full range of 30 Fly Girl items includes lip fly girl for themselves.” they emerge.” balm, nail polish, body wash and body lotion, an as- — Matthew W. Evans SPA PHOTOS BY KAREN HOYT; FLY GIRL BY DAN BIBB GIRL BY FLY KAREN HOYT; PHOTOS BY SPA WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2004 9 Bluefly Posts First-Ever Quarterly Profit

NEW YORK — Black is the new red for Bluefly Inc. as firm’s decision to eliminate site-wide discounts and us,” Seiff said. And with an additional $5 million in its the online discount retailer reported Thursday its first $465,000 in additional sales from a temporary retail coffers raised in January from group funding led by quarterly profit in its five-year history. store it opened to liquidate products. Previously, those Redwood Grove Capital Management LLC, which is on “It really is incredibly exciting,” Bluefly’s chief execu- products would have been written-off. top of the $7.7 million in cash on hand at year’s end, tive Ken Seiff said. “It’s been a hurdle that has been in Seiff said the swing to profitability from last year’s loss Bluefly appears to have strength in its balance sheet. front of us for so long and to have finally cleared it is a was driven by more relevant inventory, as the firm ex- Melissa Payner, president of Bluefly, said in a state- real accomplishment.” panded its offerings with more relevant brands and de- ment, “We begin 2004 with what I believe is a vastly im- At the same time, the financial milestone is daunting, signers and products like cashmere, outerwear and shoes. proved merchandise mix and strong supply [chain] rela- Seiff said, as the firm faces an even greater challenge: Other drivers include a more user-friendly Web site tionships than ever before.” being profitable for a full year. and more efficient marketing that allowed it to increase For the year-end period, Bluefly reported a loss of The New York-based cyber retailer said for the three the number of new customers it acquired by 37.8 per- $6.4 million, or 88 cents, compared with a loss of $6.5 months ended Dec. 31 that net profits reached $111,000, cent to 45,114 from 32,740 last year, while also reducing million in 2002, while sales for the full year climbed 23.9 but turned in a 7 cent loss on a per-share basis, which advertising expenses by 23 percent. percent to $37.9 million from $30.6 million. included preferred stock dividends. In the year-ago pe- While hitting all the right notes during the holiday, For an encore, the chief executive said Bluefly has the riod, Bluefly reported a loss of $1.7 million, or 22 cents. Seiff said the firm has great momentum heading into the “opportunity to create a really different shopping experi- Sales for the quarter jumped 42 percent to $14 million new year and the capability to invest in the momentum. ence that allows customers to get the combination of great from $9.9 million. Gross margins increased 760 basis “As I look at the gap at the last quarter’s success and brands at great prices but also in a unique format.” points to 38.6 percent from 31 percent, reflecting the where we would like to get, this marks the beginning for — Jennifer Weitzman Strong Revenues Boost Guess Net Into the Black NEW YORK — Cost reductions and strong performances from all three of its business seg- ments helped Guess Inc. trump analysts’ estimates and charge into positive earnings territory for the fourth quarter. For the three months ended Dec. 31 the Los Angeles-based jeans maker reported earnings of $11.8 million, or 27 cents a di- luted share, beating Wall Street’s consensus estimate of 24 cents. The company reported a loss of $4.6 million, or 11 cents a share, in the year-ago period. Sales for the quarter bloomed 19.1 percent to $199.3 million from $167.4 million in the previ- ous year. Comparable-store sales increased 11.7 percent. In a statement, president and chief operating officer Carlos Alberini credited higher sales and cost-control efforts for the strong results. “Our retail seg- ment generated the greatest gains,” said Alberini, who went on to characterize a $15.4 million improvement in operating in- come as a “testament to the leverage of our retail business model and its significant oppor- tunity for growth.” According to the firm, sales at retail stores rose 17.7 percent to $154.2 million from $130.9 million in the same period a year ago. Sales from the company’s wholesale segment, which had experienced declines in recent quarters, vaulted 29.7 percent to $34.2 million from $26.4 million. Revenue generated from li- censing rose 8.3 percent to $10.9 million against $10.1 million in the year-ago quarter. The company said a long campaign to reduce costs con- tinued to pay off as selling, gen- eral and administrative expens- es dropped to $52.4 million, or 26.2 percent of sales. A year ear- lier, SG&A expenses had repre- sented 31.5 percent of sales. Year-end results reflected a similar story, as the company re- ported earnings of $7.3 million, or 17 cents a diluted share, against losses of $11.3 million, or 26 cents, in 2002. Sales jumped 9.2 percent to $636.6 million from $583.1 mil- lion. Comparable-store sales in- creased 9.3 percent. —Ross Tucker 10 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2004 Armani’s New Hotel Plan Walk of Style to Honor Ford LOS ANGELES — Tom Ford will In keeping with the spirit of Continued from page one Giorgio Aeffe, the Italian clothing manu- be the next honoree of the Rodeo the award, kudos are not limited three-level space that houses the Armani facturer that produces such lines Drive Walk of Style on March 28 to Ford’s many headline-grabbing Emporio Armani collection, the as Alberta Ferretti, Moschino, in Beverly Hills, 20 days after his moments on the red carpet with first stand-alone spaces for the Narciso Rodriguez and Pollini, last bow in Paris for Yves Saint Nicole Kidman, Julianne Moore, Armani Jeans and Casa lines, owns a hotel, the essential Car- Laurent. Naomi Watts, Rita Wilson and a Armani fragrances and acces- ducci76 in Cattolica, near Aeffe’s The news Thursday confirmed constellation of others. (Even sories, a cafe, a bookstore, a Sony headquarters. The hotel, in a a WWD report this month. with a home nearby, Ford has store, Armani Fiori (flowers), popular beach resort on the The tribute salutes style leg- spent many Oscar nights at the Armani Dolci (chocolates and shores of the Adriatic Sea, ends for their contributions to Beverly Hills Hotel, fitting award confectionery), the Japanese opened in 2000 and is decorated the worlds of fashion and enter- show-bound pals.) restaurant Nobu and, the latest, with ethnic furniture. tainment, and was created by the His designs have recurring on- his exclusive club, Armani Privé. Diesel chief Renzo Rosso’s Rodeo Drive Committee and the screen roles, as well, from “Sex Armani spent $62.5 million on extravagant and surreal Pelican city of Beverly Hills. Induction and the City” to feature films like the real estate alone and invest- Hotel in Miami has one-of-a- includes a brass plaque set in the “The Wedding Planner” and the ed over $10 million to restore the kind furnishings in each room; Rodeo sidewalk, as well as a ma- upcoming “Stepford Wives.” In Via Manzoni building. During the Anna Molinari restored her fam- quette modeled after the 14-foot 2001’s “Hannibal,” a Gucci black opening of the megastore, ily hotel in Capri, where her “Torso” statue sculpted by Robert satin sandal gets the spotlight Armani said his “dream” was to company is based, and Carla Graham that stands at the inter- when it appears in a made-for- open a hotel and that the upper Sozzani, of Corso Como 10, owns section of Rodeo Drive and Day- the-movie magazine ad Hannibal levels of the building made his the tiny hotel Three Rooms. ton Way. Committee founder and Lecter leaves behind in Clarice “mouth water." Though he said Whatever the formula for his former retailer Fred Hayman, Starling’s apartment. In a later he was “already thinking about hotel, Armani will almost cer- who initiated the award, calls it scene, Starling receives the shoe what to do with them,” he con- tainly follow his mantra, a “disci- the “Oscar of fashion.” as a clue. ceded it was “just an idea.” plined approach to growth,” as The decision to name Ford long The Rodeo Drive Walk of Style The idea is turning into reali- “there are no shortcuts to suc- predated his announcement last Award was inaugurated last ty. The move comes as Armani cess,” as he said upon the publi- fall that he was leaving Gucci and September when Giorgio Armani continues to grow his $1.6 billion cation of the company’s 2002 an- YSL, insisted committee chair- came to town, staging a full run- empire by expanding his product nual report. man Peri Ellen Berne Thursday. way show watched by a cavalcade offering with his home collection, The designer also cited verti- “We’ve been thinking about Tom of A-listers, including Michelle launched in 2000, fine-tuning the 2004 and Armani Jeans in Hong cal integration and cost-cutting Ford since we conceived the Pfeiffer, Jodie Foster, Sophia distribution for his Collezioni Kong this summer. Armani also as his guidelines, and expressed Rodeo Drive Walk of Style. Loren, Diane Keaton and Jessica and Emporio lines, consistently will launch its cosmetics and fra- his pride in the group’s results, “This program means so much Simpson. Outkast DJ’d the after working on his retail expansion grances in China next year. which, he said, “show an in- for the city and the Committee. party, which rocked on well after and even finding time to design a Armani plans to open 20 to 30 crease in all profitability indica- When we found out he would not the official midnight ending. car for Mercedes. All this has oc- stores in mainland China by 2008. tors and have led to a compound be continuing on, it became even Rodeo Drive also will be bar- curred as Armani has firmly kept Armani’s new hotels will be in annual growth rate of 14 percent more special to us to honor him ricaded and overrun by next his company private and again good company. Bulgari SpA over the last five years.” In 2002, this way. He changed the land- month’s event, yet Ford will and again said he has no inten- linked up with Marriot Inter- sales advanced 2.3 percent to scape of fashion and of this forgo the runway show for a tions of retiring just yet. national Inc. in February 2001 to $1.6 billion, or 1.3 billion euros, street,” Berne added, noting the chic, late-evening cocktail party, The hotel venture will be the open a string of hotels around compared with 2001. Dollars are Gucci and YSL flagships on according to a Gucci spokes- second major news from Armani the world. The first one is ex- converted from euros at the Rodeo Drive both overhauled woman, accommodating 500 in a week. As reported, in line pected to bow in Milan later this then-current exchange. and expanded in recent years friends and fans. with the designer’s retail renova- year, followed by up to five more The report said the designer under Ford’s reign. — Rose Apodaca Jones tion and expansion plans, Armani over the next four years. At the was sitting on a potential cash last week reached an agreement time the venture was announced, pile of $1.3 billion, or 1.2 billion with the House of Three in Francesco Trapani, Bulgari’s euros. In addition to the compa- Shanghai for the opening in April chief executive officer, said the ny’s net financial position, which of Giorgio Armani and Emporio hotel industry then generated amounted to $121.2 million, or Milan Fashion Plan Takes Shape Armani flagship boutiques, more than $300 billion a year, 106.3 million euros, Armani could Armani Fiori and Armani Dolci. with the luxury segment repre- rely on financial reserves of $729 NEW YORK — As Milan prepares The deal further represents senting about 10 percent of that. million, or 639 million euros, real to open its fall collections Sunday, Armani’s long-term commitment Sources said that the Armani estate assets and other proper- city officials are also looking for to the Chinese market, after the hotel venture will be similar in ties totaling about $536.2 million, ways to bolster its reputation as a opening of the Armani/Chater its long-term vision to that of or 470 million euros. fashion capital and a showcase House megastore in Hong Kong Bulgari’s, but different in every In 2002, the company invested for emerging designers. in November 2002. That complex, other detail, including the na- $98.1 million, or 86 million euros, Italian designers have been which features Giorgio Armani, ture of Armani’s partner and the partly aimed at expanding its re- facing a double whammy of diffi- Emporio Armani, Armani Fiori, structure of the deal. tail network, opening 30 bou- culties in recent years, having Armani Casa, Armani cosmetics While the Bulgari-Marriot ven- tiques and renovating 16. In 2003, moved past the economic crisis and an Armani cafe, was the first ture initially was greeted with the company opened 30 bou- faced by luxury firms in the after- in the world to feature both of the skepticism, analysts have since tiques and renovated 11, among math of the 2001 terrorist attacks designer’s main ready-to-wear grown accustomed to the idea of them, the boutiques in London and into further problems caused collections. It takes up 30,000 designers and brands opening ho- and Rome. The company has in- by the strength of the euro in rela- square feet, 20,000 of which are tels. The Salvatore Ferragamo vested, over the last five years, tion to the U.S. dollar. During a PHOTO BY JOHN CALABRESE dedicated to retail. firm owns the Lungarno Hotels $745 million, or 653 million recent address to American edi- Armani has other presences chain, created in 1995, which lists euros, of internally generated tors and apparel executives on in China, too, in Beijing, Dalian, the Zen-inspired Gallery Hotel, funds to expand its manufactur- emerging business opportunities Roberto Cavalli and Giovanni Bozzetti Wenzhou and Shenzhen. Numer- the Lungarno and the Continental ing capacity and to grow and di- between the two countries, Gio- ous other stores are in the works, hotels, and Versace operates a six- versify its product portfolio and vanni Bozzetti, an Italian commis- York reception that the Italian including an Armani Collezioni star, 205-room resort in Australia. its retail network. sioner for fashion, tourism and parliament recently approved a store for Shanghai in October Massimo Ferretti, owner of The company now registers special events, noted that 1 in 5 grant to help establish the center. more than $4.5 billion in retail articles of clothing made in Italy In addition, the city has invited sales in 121 countries. is destined for sale in the U.S., representatives of the Fashion A prototype room for Armani is also extending the underscoring the significance of Institute of Technology to partici- the Bulgari Hotel. Emporio Armani reach through that market to Italian fashion pate in its next Milan conference distribution in selected, high-end companies and how currency to discuss the development of department stores — a new di- swings can significantly penalize young designers and stylists. rection for the designer, whose imports from Europe. Roberto Cavalli, who was on strategy initially for this line was The Italian government and hand for the event, said when to sell only through freestanding, design communities are trying to he started out, the U.S. market branded boutiques. The first step improve the country’s fashion in- did not represent such an im- is to open a corner in Paris at the frastructure and support young portant opportunity for Italian Printemps store this spring. The talent as a means of positioning designers, but as fashion com- designer also will inaugurate a its product, he said. panies have gone increasingly two-story,10,800-square-foot “We can only get past this cri- global, they have had to develop Emporio store in Munich in sis by believing in our product,” business strategies as creative December. Modeled on the Milan Bozzetti said. “We have to go back as their designs to remain com- Via Manzoni megastore, the bou- to creativity and innovation in petitive in world markets. He tique will sell the Emporio and fashion, working with young styl- couldn’t resist a moment of na- Jeans lines, and include a cafe, a ists to make Milan a laboratory tional pride. bookstore and a flower shop. for new talent.” “In Italy, we are artists inside On the accessories front, last Milan is proceeding with plans and out — this is the part that year Armani signed a license to build its Città Della Moda, or makes Italian designers different with Safilo for production of its “Fashion City,” with a complex of from all others in the world,” Giorgio and Emporio Armani showrooms, stores and offices as Cavalli said. “All the time, we eyewear lines, ending its 14-year well as a fashion museum to open have to look for something new.” license with Luxottica. in 2007. Bozzetti said at the New —Eric Wilson Next Wave Speakers:

Jean-Paul Agón Susan Arnold Bernd Beetz Robin R. Burns Robin Coe-Hutshing Darlene Daggett John Demsey L’Oréal USA Inc. The Procter & Gamble Company Coty Inc. Victoria’s Secret Beauty Studio at Fred Segal QVC Inc. MAC Cosmetics and Intimate Beauty Corp.

Susan D. Kronick William P. Lauder Nicholas V. Perricone Marc S. Pritchard Jack L. Stahl Harald Stolzenberg Kip Tindell Federated Department Stores Inc. The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. N.V.Perricone M.D. Ltd. The Procter & Gamble Company Revlon Inc. Juvena International AG & The Container Store Laboratoires La Prairie Plus: Leslie A. Blodgett of MD Beauty, Artur Grynbaum of O Boticario Group, Jo Horgan of Mecca Cosmetica, Jane Hertzmark Hudis of Beauty Bank, Sonia Kashuk of Sonia Kashuk Professional Makeup at Target, Matthew Malin of Malin & Goetz Inc., Glen T. Senk of Anthropologie, Jane Terker of Cradle Holdings Ltd., Dan Wieden of Wieden+Kennedy

FairchildSummits. Call 212-630-4772 or [email protected] 12 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2004 Nordstrom 4Q Earnings Surge Prosperous Quarters Continued from page 2 discipline that far exceeds $242.8 million, or $1.76 a share, 2003, those building blocks start- where we were as a company compared with profits in 2002 of ed to pay dividends, and the im- three years ago.” $90.2 million, or 66 cents, which For Wal-Mart, Target provement is clearly reflected Specifically, he said business included $71 million, or 53 in our results.” decisions are now supported by cents, in after-tax charges for Continued from page 2 Sales for the period grew 11.6 So while Nordstrom made more accurate and timely infor- impairment and other factors. of pressure in the fourth quarter. percent to $256.33 billion, about solid progress in 2003, manage- mation, and the company is ac- Excluding the charges, 2002 The truth is that January was an $10 billion greater than the econ- ment said it anticipates several tively managing performance earnings were $161.3 million, or excellent month for Wal-Mart, omy of Belgium. years of ongoing improvement against a defined set of key met- $1.19. Sales for the year rose 8.6 both in terms of sales and in Not to be outdone, Target said ahead. The president focused rics, including return on capital. percent to $6.49 billion from terms of profitability. It is that fourth-quarter earnings surged on two challenges: remaining Looking ahead, the cfo said $5.98 billion and expanded 4.3 excellent month worldwide that 21.1 percent to $832 million, or 91 relevant to customers by work- that, based on anticipated same- percent on a comp basis. really helped us to have the kind cents, from $688 million, or 75 ing to maintain and enhance the store sales increases of 1 to 3 “All of our work the past few of quarter that we are able to re- cents, a year ago. EPS beat the quality of the shopping experi- percent, 2004 earnings per share years has been aimed at layer- port this morning.” Wall Street forecast by 4 cents. ence and pushing to establish are expected to fall in the range ing on tools and organizational With February sales also Consolidated sales for the pe- new levels of performance. “Our of $2.02 to $2.08, an increase of disciplines to help us push tracking extremely well, Scott riod improved in the double dig- goal is to drive sustained im- 15 to 18 percent compared with through the ceiling of historic said judicious use of apparel its, gaining 11 percent to $15.21 provements and deliver consis- the prior year. For the first quar- best performance,” Nordstrom markdowns in the fourth quar- billion from $13.71 billion last tency over time,” he said. ter, he projected earnings be- said. “We are encouraged now, ter has Wal-Mart bullish for year, and comps increased 4.9 Michael Koppel, chief finan- tween 23 and 28 cents, based on more than ever, and look ahead spring selling. percent. cial officer, said results this past a 4 to 6 percent comp increase. to 2004 and beyond with the “Today, as we sit here, we now At the company’s namesake year reflect a firm that is “oper- Overall, in 2003, profits at same sense of commitment but a have fewer units this year than Target stores, president Gregg ating with a level of rigor and Nordstrom rose 169.2 percent to deeper degree of confidence.” we had last year in apparel Steinhafel said on a conference markdowns, meaning that we are call that new design partnerships, cleaner [and] better prepared for including those with Isaac Miz- the spring season, and that adds rahi and Liz Lang, and the addi- to my optimism,” said Scott. tion of national brands such as Spurred by Wal-Mart’s fourth- Genuine Kids by Oshkosh and Penney Goes Home With Madden quarter numbers and its strong blue jeans by Lee, contributed to start to the new year, analysts an overall gain in market share by NEW YORK — J.C. Penney will were likewise bullish on the com- generating 13.2 percent growth in launch its exclusive Chris pany’s prospects going forward. total retail sales in the fall season. Madden collection, Turning Robert Buchanan, an analyst Also encouraging were better Home Into Haven for the J.C. with A.G. Edwards & Sons, up- operating results from the com- Penney Home Collection, at all graded his rating on the stock to pany’s twin albatrosses — its of its 1,000 stores in May. “buy” from “hold,” and raised troubled department store divi- Last week, Madden and Pen- his first-quarter estimate to 48 sions of Mervyn’s and Marshall ney management toasted their cents from 46 cents. Field’s. Although sales and marriage — and multiyear con- “Following 16 months of un- comps continued to fall at Mer- tract — at the Four Seasons derperformance by these shares, vyn’s, its pretax operating profits restaurant and gave the media a valuation is now an ally in the showed signs of stabilizing after glimpse of the collection, which Wal-Mart investment thesis,” ticking down just a fraction of a has close to 2,000 stockkeeping wrote Buchanan in a research percent. And, despite Marshall units. They said Madden could note to investors. “Adding luster Field’s posting a 1.2 percent de- put the Penney Home collection to the investment thesis is Wal- cline in revenue, the division did above the $2 billion mark. Mart’s improved earnings-per- manage a 0.5 percent same-store Currently, it’s in excess of $1.5 share outlook.” sales increase and a 15.6 percent billion. Penney’s total home Lazard analyst Todd Slater, for rise in pretax operating income. business is about $3 billion. his part, reiterated his “buy” rec- For the full fiscal year, Target Madden’s products offer a ommendation for Wal-Mart and said profits increased 11.4 percent PHOTO BY DAN D’ERRICO pulled-together look and higher J.C. Penney chairman and ceo Allen Questrom with Charles Chinni; Vanessa raised his own first-quarter guid- to $1.84 billion, or $2.01 a share. taste level to middle-class Castagna, chairman, ceo and president of Penney’s stores, catalogue and ance to 50 cents from 48 cents. That compares with last year’s America, but the items can stand Overall, for the full fiscal year, earnings of $1.65 billion, or $1.81. Internet, and Chris Madden. on their own. Madden, who be- Wal-Mart said net earnings in- Consolidated sales rose 9.5 per- comes Penney’s Home Collection pillows, candles and decorative footwear, “As one of America’s creased 13.8 percent to $9.05 bil- cent to $46.78 billion from $42.72 spokeswoman, is the author of 15 accessories. Said Charles Chinni, leading designers, Chris will be lion, or $2.07 a share, from $7.96 billion, and company-wide comps design and lifestyle books, and executive vice president and gen- instrumental in bringing strong billion, or $1.79, last year. climbed 2.9 percent. has put her name on home goods eral merchandise manager for creative direction and trend in- from furniture to rugs, throws, Penney Home, fine jewelry and sight to our brand.” Units Up, Dollars Down in 2003

NEW YORK — Women bought 2.4 has been a standout performer in Boss Woman Lifts Hugo’s Net percent more sportswear last year private labels, compared with other than in 2002, but the persistence department stores, Spar said. NEW YORK — Boss Woman cult market environment” trans- Woman, again on a net basis, of apparel deflation wiped out any “Federated did extremely well in made money in the back half of lated into a fourth quarter shrank to $1.8 million, or 1.4 potential gains in dollar volume for private labels in 2003, realizing 10 last year, helping Hugo Boss AG marked by losses, albeit re- million euros, from $6.4 mil- the sector, which saw sales slump percent growth in sportswear dollar offset a difficult fourth quarter duced ones, and lower sales. lion, or 5 million euros, as sales 2 percent to $38.2 billion in 2003. volume versus 2002,” Spar noted. and exceed its forecast of a Boss didn’t break down quarter- more than doubled to $15 mil- In 2002, by comparison, con- “We didn’t see May or Dillard’s, for year-end 10 percent increase in ly figures, but subtraction of lion from $6.3 million. sumers purchased $38.8 billion example, doing as well.” net income. nine-month results from those “The group’s consistent pur- worth of women’s sportswear. Adding to the downward spiral in The Metzingen, Germany- of the full year revealed that the suit of profitable growth en- “More apparel is being sold, but women’s dollar volume, the average based fashion house Thursday firm’s fourth-quarter losses abled us to considerably in- fewer dollars are passing through the price for a women’s sportswear item reported that its 2003 net in- were trimmed to $8.4 million, or crease our income and reach cash register — more so in women’s fell 4 percent last year to $18.71 come rose 10.3 percent to $104.7 6.6 million euros, from $11.8 our return-on-investment objec- than in men’s,” noted Arthur Spar, from $19.45 in 2002, STS found. million from $94.9 million. million, or 9.3 million euros. tives in spite of less-than-favor- chairman and chief executive of The average price of a piece of Dollar figures have been con- Fourth-quarter sales fell 14.1 able economic developments,” Cambridge, Mass.-based STS Market men’s sportswear eased 2 percent verted from the euro at current percent to $244.2 million, or Sälzer said in a statement. Research, which has just released its to $20.30 — still 8 percent more exchange as Boss reported prof- 192.1 million euros, from $283.9 Helping Boss meet its finan- fourth-quarter and full-year sports- than the average women’s item. its of 82.4 million euros versus million, or 223.4 million euros. cial goals was a nearly one- wear consumption data for 2003. For the full year, just two 74.7 million euros in 2002. Boss Woman cut its year-end third reduction in capital ex- Women bought 2.044 billion women’s sportswear segments The increase in profits came losses, expressed on a net basis, penditures last year, to $58.8 pieces of apparel in 2003, up from showed any vigor: activewear and despite a 3.6 percent decline in to $3.8 million, or 3 million million. 1.996 billion in 2002, said STS. jeans. Consumers spent $3.34 bil- sales after currency effects to euros, from $23 million, or 18.1 The firm said it would act on There are a couple of reasons lion on women’s activewear in $1.34 billion, or 1.05 billion million euros, in 2002 as sales previous authorization to pur- women’s sportswear is taking a big- 2003, up 13 percent from $2.95 euros, from $1.39 billion, or 1.09 soared 37.3 percent to $64.6 mil- chase up to 10 percent of its ger hit from lower prices than billion in 2002, and $5.64 billion billion euros, in the prior year. lion, or 50.8 million euros, from share capital. “The acquired men’s, Spar said. “Women are on women’s jeans, up 7 percent In November, Boss said it $47 million, or 37 million euros. shares will be held in readiness more willing to shop around for a from $5.26 billion. expected a 10 percent increase The loss was in line with a fore- as potential compensation in the good deal and to buy private la- Consumer expenditures for in net income for the year with cast made in November by Boss event of eventual acquisitions or bels. Women are less reliant on women’s sportswear were virtually sales finishing the calendar chief executive officer Bruno equity investments,” a statement brands; more able to judge the flat in the fourth quarter of 2003, cycle on par with 2002 levels. Sälzer while sales slightly ex- read. “Specific acquisition plans quality of an item by touching it totaling $11.07 billion, or 0.4 per- However, what Boss de- ceeded most recent projections. do not exist at the moment.” and trying it on. Men are more will- cent less than the $11.03 billion scribed as “a persistently diffi- The quarterly loss at Boss — Arnold J. Karr ing to pay a premium for a brand.” worth consumed a year ago. Federated Department Stores — Valerie Seckler WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2004 13

Media/Advertising

base in Brazil; he will also capture this year’s best-actress winner with her own Diamond Diva portrait. ALL THAT GLITTERS: This year ,diamonds are Oscar’s new best friend. MEMO PAD Oscar Watch It seems every jeweler under the sun has set up shop in Hollywood. Those who have doors on Rodeo or in the vicinity — Harry Winston, TRUTH OR DARE: David Pecker has been talking up HOLLYWOOD — The Countdown is on. Just 10 days before Bulgari, Chopard, Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels, David Orgell, the fortunes of American Media, but the company’s the Academy Awards takes place on Feb. 29, those fashion Martin Katz, Judith Ripka, Erica Courtney and Neil Lane — have most recent filing with the Securities and Exchange and beauty red-carpet players — and those aspiring to get thrown them wide open to stylists and stars, per usual. But Commission shows there’s a long way to go. in on the game — haven’t skipped a step, balancing the companies without permanent homes refuse to be left out. So AMI’s net profits fell 90 percent in the quarter ended demands of the international fashion week schedule with they’ve checked in to the Peninsula (Daniel Swarovski Paris, H. Dec. 29, plummeting from $6.9 million to just those of Hollywood. Stern); Le Meridien (The Natural Color Diamond Association, 2 $692,000. Advertising revenues at the company’s Awesome International and Erin tabloids actually fell more than $2 million in the quarter SOHO, SO HOT: Locals are already Laureau, who just made a and newsstand sales fell 9.7 percent. It wasn’t an isolated cringing at the traffic jam soon to personalized jeweled laptop for incident, either — over the last nine months, advertising overtake Sunset Plaza Drive. Club Allegra Versace); L’Ermitage (David revenue at the tabloids was flat while the company’s net owner Jeff Green’s party house will Yurman); Chateau Marmont (Autore); profits fell by $10 million because AMI’s $1 billion debt be converted into the left-coast Four Seasons (Kwiat), and Luxe grew faster than the profits needed to repay it. Soho House for the week, and the (Delaneau, Beaudry and Kathrine Pecker’s investors can blame the Weider list of ultraprivate parties there Baumann bags) for the week. Early acquisition for that. Adding Weider’s body-building keeps growing. There’s co-sponsor bird The Platinum Guild got a jump magazines such as Muscle & Fitness and Flex, along Cierge, Sony’s invite-only shopping on the action last month at the with more mainstream titles such as Shape and Men’s service, throwing a 200-person Regent Beverly Wilshire. And ever-so- Fitness, boosted revenues tremendously but forced cocktail on Tuesday; V-V-V-IPs Nicole chic Boucheron has set up temporary AMI to swallow large amounts of debt. While Pecker Kidman, Naomi Watts and Scarlett digs on the top floor of Gucci. On and editorial director Bonnie Fuller tinker with the Johansson hosting their own little Tuesday, sophomore jeweler and stalled tabloids — especially the total overhaul and get-togethers with pals (sure to be veteran philanthropist Nancy Davis relaunch of the Star in April — they’re depending on laden with co-sponsor Ferragamo’s will host the ultimate salon prive at the Weider magazines to throw off the cash needed to goodies), and Graydon Carter is her Bel Air estate: a party for her keep up on the debt repayments. But those muscle having Vanity Fair’s after-after Oscar Peace and Love line with Badgley titles look like the next piece of AMI’s empire to sag. party-breakfast there. We just hope Mischka, MAC and Moo Roo The Weider books (with the exception of the very the car crunch is not as hellacious handbags (also doing double duty at mainstream Shape) have traditionally depended on as the one held there at Outkast’s Le Meridien). And finally, the Italian advertising for supplements such as the now-banned Grammy party two weeks ago. Trade Commission will exhibit pieces ephedra, and considering President Bush has declared from 15 jewelry houses including war on steroids (while Major League Baseball SEEING DOUBLE: Missoni is showcasing Damiani, Roberto Coin, Hafner and currently grapples with its own supplement scandal), fall on the Milan runway on Oscar Clockwise from top left: Revlon offers the Red Carpet Chimento at the Beverly Hills offices those ads, the publisher admits, have begun to dry Sunday, yet the house is aiming to Bag; a Vik Muniz diamond sketch; a Jean Patou fragrance of PRB PR. Bling, anyone? up. Instead of one shaky division, AMI now has two. double its exposure. Two of each of is part of the Oscar package and an Estée Lauder gift bag. “Between the muscle supplement business that is the best red-carpet and party looks are AND JUST FOR SHOWING UP: The the bread and butter of the Weider Publications — being made — one for Milan, the other Hollywood. Margherita Missoni official Oscar basket outdoes itself each year, and this year’s no that Pecker clearly bought at a premium — and the and VIP consultant Gerlinde Hobel are touching down in L.A. this exception. Among the items already being leaked out on the slow start toward building advertising pages in a much weekend with the mini collection — meaning fans here will get a first supposedly embargoed secret: a Baccarat bottle engraved with the more expensively produced Star, the overall plan for look and test drive the looks a week before it officially bows. best-actress nominees’ names and filled with Enjoy by Jean Patou American Media has to be looked at with some Paris, valued at $500; a $750 piece from the new Talismania concern,” said a source familiar with AMI’s financials. FIVE-STAR TREATMENT: Estée Lauder and its “dream team” of bold- collection, the new jewelry line from porcelain sculptors Lladró, But it’s already taken care of, said an AMI spokesman. faced experts return a third year to the Four Seasons, taking over and Kiehl’s product and a Tina Earnshaw Makeup set, each worth Shape and Men’s Fitness are adding ad pages faster several suites and overhauling everything from flooring to furnishings. $500. Even the populist Jelly Bags have found their way into the than Flex can shed them, he said. — Greg Lindsay Celeb makeup artist Paul Starr and hairstylist Enzo Angileri are among official presenters’ gift baskets. the pros on hand, but the availability of fitness guru Owen McKibbin CHILD’S PLAY: While New York magazine’s readers are for two weeks before the Feb. 29 show is the real bonus. Manolo BUT WAIT, THERE’S ALWAYS MORE: The key is the more luxurious, fretting over whether they’re feeding their kids too much Blahnik also teamed up with Lauder again, creating suede slides and the better. Designer Elie Saab collaborated with MAC on a (this week’s cover subject), Time Out New York’s would a travel bag — a first for the designer — both exclusive to the cobranded palette with mirror that includes sheer shimmer powder, rather know the best restaurants at which to feed theirs. promo. Other custom swag in the $10,000 bag include Baccarat blush, lipsticks and shadows. The slim $45 case is available this Or that’s the premise, anyway, behind TONY Kids, earrings, an Hermès throw and an Arnold Brandt cashmere sweater. month only at MAC stores in the Middle East and the Robertson which debuts March 1. Currently slated to be published Only actresses and actors in the best and best supporting categories Boulevard door in Los Angeles. four times a year as a stand-alone title with its own and their closest pals are invited. And Lauder is using the occasion With designers Annie Gilbert and Susan Doleman, Revlon created subscribers and weekly listing updates online, TONY to launch its Body Performance Collection hitting stores in April. the Red Carpet Bag, a bright red crocodile case crammed with Kids is an intermediate step on the way to world cosmetics and nail products and valued at $2,500. domination, with Time Out Chicago launching in the fall. ROCK STARS: From fashion homages to tattooed images, And not to be out-luxed British hair star Charles Worthington TONY’s London cousin tried a kids’ edition (now Hollywood’s most iconic have been immortalized in oh so many returns with a customized kit for the five best-actress noms worth discontinued) a while back, but TONY president Cyndi creative ways. Conceptual artist Vik Muniz chose diamonds —some $6,500. He’s upped his successful mass Results line with rare Stivers, said her version is an outgrowth of the 500 carats of stones, spread out and rendered à la Etch-A-Sketch black orchid and Amazonian nut oils and created Couture Results. magazine’s apparently popular “Kids” page (which the — of Marlene Dietrich, Betty Davis, Elizabeth Taylor and the like. “These ingredients are phenomenally expensive, so we could never childless never notice while flipping to the Music section). Photographs of the temporary works make up “Diamond Divas,” on do it in a commercial way,” says Worthington, who will attend to “We’ve been waiting for the technology to catch up with view through the week at the Kwiat Diamonds suite in the Beverly VIP clients at a private home he’s renting for the week. The the audience. It’s finally acceptable to have a sort of Hills Four Seasons. The works will then be auctioned to benefit the shampoo-conditioner set are tucked in along with a silver Asprey mixed print-and-online magazine. Parents are now used Jewelers Charity Fund, which aids the Make-A-Wish and Elizabeth compact and a Mondera diamond and aquamarine barrette inside to getting a lot of information about their kids online, from Glaser Pediatric AIDS Foundations and other children’s groups. For a ice-blue Smythson leather clutch. schools, etc. Our core audience when we launched was the opening reception Monday, Muniz is flying in from his home — Rose Apodaca Jones and Marcy Medina Gen X, and now they’re having kids.” — G.L.

world, like the decade-long pattern of wholesaler consol- idation that has steadily squeezed titles off the shelf. The gradual sagging of newsstand sales has led direct- Newsstand Sales Tank, Again ly to today’s trends of spin-off titles (like Condé Nast’s Teen Vogue or Cargo which, like WWD, are part of By Greg Lindsay with the previous year, and that’s after sales dropped Advance Magazines Group), clones of existing titles (the 12.9 percent in the first half (when there was a war on). entire lad mag genre) and a bet-the-house mentality NEW YORK — What’s the publishing industry’s excuse “You can’t blame Iraq, and you can’t blame the econ- when it comes to launches. Gruner + Jahr USA has pon- this time? omy…. Well, I guess you can, but how long can you keep dered launching a U.S. edition of its European celebrity- When magazine newsstand sales dropped precipi- doing that?” said Chip Block, vice chairman of the sub- lifestyle glossy, Gala, for what feels like forever, and no tously in the first six months of 2003, publishers had scription fulfillment company USApubs. wonder the company can’t make up its mind — the cost their pick of reasons — the war in Iraq, the still-sput- This time, the excuse du jour is the Southern California of pushing it on the newsstand in volumes large enough tering economy, even SARS. supermarket strike-lockout that began in October and to succeed could reportedly be as much as $50 million. But they’ll need a good explanation for yet another shows no signs of ending, denting the women’s service and Even the one, unqualified newsstand hit of the last drop in the second half of last year. According to official other magazines that depend on shoppers’ impulse buying. three years has a mitigating factor. “It’s Oprah. It’s TV,” figures released Monday by the Audit Bureau of TV Guide, for example, fell 21.5 percent, or 178,000 copies; Block said. Hearst’s O: The Oprah Magazine rose a stag- Circulations, out of the 472 magazines it tracks, 319 Reader’s Digest dropped 15.3 percent and shed 100,000 gering 38.1 percent in the second half of last year — the reported newsstand declines and their combined news- copies. Six Sisters members Family Circle, Woman’s Day, highest by far of any magazine in its class, climbing stand sales fell 5.9 percent (3.3 million copies), not Ladies Home Journal and Redbook were also double-digit from 720,000 to within a whisker of 1 million. But Oprah counting new titles reporting sales for the first time. losers. (Then again, their checkout aisle neighbors People, has a TV show to plug her magazine, not to mention a The big picture looks even worse for magazines too In Touch and Us Weekly all posted solid numbers.) cult of personality (she’s been on every cover since it small to be counted by the ABC. According to the While it might seem a bit of a stretch to hang the launched in 2000). International Periodical Distributors Association, industry’s woes on a few grocery chains in the O.C., pub- “Anything that works now works in spite of the sys- which tracks 95 percent of all magazines, net unit sales lishers still seem more eager to blame California’s labor tem, not because of it,” Block said. “I don’t think there’s fell 13.4 percent in the second half of 2003 compared problems than unfixed structural flaws in the magazine a lot of help in reforming it or turning the thing around.” WWD The Magazine Issue Date: April 12, 2004 Close: March 15

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Elton Farah can, Cornelia zipped off to Las Vegas to see her pal Pahlavi John’s show at Caesar’s Palace and hobnobbed with such tinselly stars as Catherine Zeta-Jones, Michael Douglas and Christina Aguilera. Cornelia sat with Elton’s partner, David Furnish, who wore a gold suit while she stood out among the flash and trash of Vegas’ notorious neon strip in a cocoa-colored jersey dress by Badgley Mischka that cling clang clung in all the right places. She will spend the next two weeks attending all the right Oscar parties — none of the wrong ones — and especially Elton’s Oscar party on Hollywood’s biggest night. In more breathtaking news from Hollywood, Cornelia spent the day with her friend Jennifer Nicholson, the designing daughter of Jack Nicholson. They had lunch at the Ivy and then headed back to Jennifer’s studio in Santa Monica for fittings. Cornelia ordered a closet full of Jennifer’s smartest outfits, hot off the Bryant Park runway where they were shown last week. Her favorite was a perfectly cut satin cocktail dress with a delicate mink neckline. She ordered it in pale blue, black and cream. Also in for fittings was Anjelica Huston, who will wear a blue Duchess satin gown with feathers on the hem to host the Costume Design Guild Awards Saturday night in Hollywood. There’s really a run on Jennifer’s designs. Jennifer Love Hewitt was there for a final fitting of a “drop-dead chic” black and white gown that she will wear to the Oscars. Jennifer Nicholson, herself, will not make the Oscars because she’s off to Paris on Monday, where she’ll settle in at the Georges V for two weeks for Paris Fashion Week and the John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney and Viktor & Rolf Modern Art will honor John shows to select her favorites to Whitehead with the David Meg buy for her shop called Rockefeller Award at a luncheon Ryan Mademoiselle Pearl, named after on Tuesday at the Metropolitan her French bulldog. (Pearl is just Club. MoMA presents this award one of three, the other two are every year to “an individual from called Scarlet and Lola.) New York the business community who best socialites who have ordered from exemplifies enlightened Nicholson include Amanda Hearst, generosity and effective advocacy who chose a flirty green swing of cultural and civic endeavors.” skirt, Elisabeth Kieselstein-Cord, Which is a fancy way of saying who picked a black leather baby- that John Whitehead is a splendid doll dress, Royce Pinkwater, a citizen and a pleasure to do multicolored chiffon and Muffie business with. Marie-Josée Kravis Potter Aston, a chocolate leather Suzy and Jerry Speyer are the chairmen and mink bolero jacket. Daddy By Aileen Mehle of the luncheon and the honorary Jack Nicholson is said to be very chairmen are Agnes Gund, Ronald proud of his little girl. Julia Roberts, 36, is the woman who has Lauder and Robert Menschel. ● everything: beauty, fame, fortune, a ● Garrick Ohlsson, the piano brilliant career, an Oscar and a handsome You will be thrilled to hear that virtuoso, who recently eye® husband, cameraman Danny Moder (she Queen Elizabeth is finally having a performed at Avery Fisher Hall, actually calls him her “hunk of burning good week. She and Prince Philip is accustomed to playing in the love”). Everything but a baby. And she says she won’t decided to have a night on the world’s finest and biggest be happy until she has one “in her arms.” And “within a town so they joined their close concerts halls. But for year.” And “no matter what.” friends Lord and Lady Romsey at Barbaralee Diamonstein She also hopes a baby would help mend fences with her the Drury Lane Theater to see Spielvogel and Ambassador Carl in-laws, who have never really forgiven her for breaking up Cole Porter’s “Anything Goes.” Spielvogel, he played his Danny’s marriage to Vera Moder, which didn’t stand a They shocked the audience by beautiful music in the intimacy of chance after Julia first laid eyes on that particular “hunk of rubbing elbows with them in their Park Avenue apartment. burning love” in Mexico two years ago. “regular seats” in the Dress Ohlsson, one of the world’s Julia’s in London now filming “Grand Champion.” She Circle rather than in the private leading interpreters of Chopin, plays a pregnant cashier — an omen? — alongside her 12- box where they usually sit. The played an all-Chopin program for year-old niece Emma Roberts, Bruce Willis and Dixie Chick Queen has also received exciting such music-loving guests as Natalie Maines. Oh, and Danny, who can come in handy news from the Royal Kennel Pulitzer Prize-winning when she needs him. Whatever Julia wants, Julia gets. announcing the birth of two playwright Edward Albee, Susan ● puppies, Willow and Holly, who and Donald Newhouse, Lincoln Meanwhile, Meg Ryan, who is six years older than were born to one of her favorite Center chairman Bruce Julia, says that she wants to have a baby too, although it corgies. The very same day, the Crawford, Kathy and Ace wouldn’t be her first. She already has an 11-year-old Queen was presented with a Greenberg and others too son, Jack, by Dennis Quaid, whom she adores — the brand new royal choo-choo train harmonious to mention. kid, not Quaid. But she has always wanted a daughter. called “The Queen’s Messenger.” ● She’d also like to have a man around, one with integrity. It cost $2.25 million and will be Thomas Keller, chef “I find that sexy,” she says. Fine. But integrity? Is she used for the next 30 years to extraordinaire, gave a luncheon looking for that needle in a Hollywood haystack? transport the royal family at his new Per Se restaurant at ● including the royal pets around the AOL Time Warner Building Her Majesty Shabanou Farah Pahlavi, the gracious the realm, making appearances, for Evelyn Lauder, Gail Hilson and and beautiful widow of the Shah of Iran, will be in New cutting ribbons, visiting Libby Pataki, the co-chairmen of York on March 24 at the L’Orangerie at Le Cirque for a grandchildren and various castles. the 10th Anniversary Committee cocktail reception celebrating the publication of her It has a gorgeous burgundy of Evelyn’s breast cancer book, “An Enduring Love: My Life With the Shah.” The colored engine that can reach GETTY IMAGES BY WIREIMAGE; PAHLAVI BY RYAN research foundation. Evelyn hosts of the reception are such eminences as Vartan speeds of up to 125 mph and it announced to the guests that the Gregorian, Veronica Hearst, David Rockefeller and bears Her Majesty’s crest. It’s the only way, really. foundation has raised $80 million since 1993 and is in Barbara Walters. David Rockefeller is a particular friend ● sight of its goal of $100 million by October 2004. Among indeed, who was there in perilous times when the Shah It’s supposed to be terribly hush-hush, but Cornelia those attending were Candice Bergen, Anne needed him. As was Henry Kissinger, whose name was Guest has just wrapped a juicy role in an important film Eisenhower, Hilary Geary, Coco Kopelman, Carole Mack, probably first on the list of invitations. and the word of mouth is so hot that she’s getting a lot of Gigi Mortimer, Deborah Norville, Beverly Sills and Paula Speaking of David Rockefeller, the Museum of attention in Hollywood right now. With her scenes in the Zahn. Brava, Evelyn Lauder.