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Cool Runnings NEW YORK — Ralph Lauren Is Going After the Young Set Again

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Cool Runnings NEW YORK — Ralph Lauren Is Going After the Young Set Again SCOOP ON THE OSCARS/13 NORDSTROM NET UP 73.8%/2 Women’sWWDWW Wear Daily • The Retailers’DFRIDAY FRIDAYDaily Newspaper • February 20, 2004 • $2.00 Beauty Cool Runnings NEW YORK — Ralph Lauren is going after the young set again. Three years after the launch of its first teen-focused scent, Ralph, the brand is set to launch Ralph Cool in June. The fragrance has a different positioning, a different juice and is aimed at a different target audience than its predecessor. Yet it could do upward of $20 million at retail in its first year. For more, see page 5. Room at the Inn: Giorgio Armani to Launch Luxe Hotel Venture By Luisa Zargani hotels in partnership with a major, signature design style to the travel MILAN — Giorgio Armani is checking publicly listed company. While the industry. Y BRYN KENNY into another new world. details could not be learned — Armani first started talking about a WWD has learned that the including the identity of the new hotel in 2000, when he opened his Via designer will announce on Sunday an partner — the venture fulfills a long- Manzoni megastore, his sprawling, ambitious venture to open luxury held ambition of Armani’s to bring his See Armani’s, Page 10 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED B PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2004 Discounters Don’t Disappoint WWDFRIDAY Beauty By Dan Burrows Jan. 31, Bentonville, Ark.-based comps gained 4.4 percent. Wal-Mart said net income grew The results were something of NEW YORK — After an unusually 8.5 percent to $2.72 billion, or 63 a relief to Wal-Mart, following BEAUTY Three years after the launch of its teen-targeting scent Ralph, Polo Ralph tumultuous 12 months and some cents a diluted share, which third-quarter results that missed pre-Christmas pessimism, Wal- matched the Wall Street consen- analysts’ forecast for the first 5 Lauren is preparing to launch a new scent in June, Ralph Cool. Mart Stores Inc. more than satis- sus estimate. Excluding costs re- time since 1996, along with some Nu Skin Enterprises, which set out to create skin care products fied Wall Street by recording its lated to a change in German tax considerable hand-wringing on 6 emphasizing “good-for-you” ingredients, celebrates its 20th anniversary. customary multibillion-dollar law, Wal-Mart would have ex- the part of chief executive officer profit and sales gains in the ceeded the forecast by 3 cents. Lee Scott regarding sluggish fourth quarter and fiscal year. Last year, by comparison, the sales leading into the holiday GENERAL Meanwhile, Target Corp. — company recorded profits of selling season. Giorgio Armani is tackling yet another area of luxury, and will launch a chain Wal-Mart’s more-fashionable but $2.51 billion, or 57 cents. “As we went through Novem- 1 of high-end hotels, WWD has learned. distant-second discount competi- Net sales for the quarter ad- ber and December of this year, it tor — saw fourth-quarter earn- vanced 12.2 percent to $74.49 was a very challenging pre- Wal-Mart recorded its usual multibillion-dollar profit and sales gains in the ings jump by more than a fifth, billion from $66.4 billion a year Christmas environment,” said 2 fourth quarter and year, while Target’s profits jumped by more than a fifth. capping a very solid year of bot- ago. Total domestic comparable- Scott on a conference call for ana- Tom Ford will be the next honoree of the Rodeo Drive Walk of Style on tom- and top-line growth. store sales increased 4.8 per- lysts and investors. “We had a lot 10 March 28 in Beverly Hills, 20 days after his last bow for Yves Saint Laurent. For the three months ended cent, while Wal-Mart stores’ Continued on page 12 Nordstrom’s strategic initiatives continued to generate operating improvements, 2 as it posted a 73.8 percent boost in its fourth-quarter net profits. SUZY: Julia Roberts and Meg Ryan catch baby fever; A new choo-choo for 16 Queen Elizabeth; Jennifer Nicholson’s rising star. Gobbetti Appointed Givenchy President Classified Advertisements........................................................................15 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is PARIS — Givenchy has named LVMH spokesman said Tesler The three-year contract of Julien [email protected], using the individual's name. Marco Gobbetti its new president parted from Givenchy on amica- Macdonald expires in April. The WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 and chief executive, succeeding ble terms and is exploring new LVMH spokesman declined all FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Marianne Tesler. This confirms a opportunities within the group. comment on succession issues. VOLUME 187, NO. 36. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional report in WWD Thursday. Tesler joined Givenchy in In any case, Gobbetti takes on issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, March, April, September, October and December; and Gobbetti joins the French fash- September 1999 from Nike a brand whose road to rejuvena- three additional issues in August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., ion house, part of LVMH Moët France, and at that time was the tion has been rocky since founder Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice- Hennessy Louis Vuitton, from French group’s only female brand Hubert de Givenchy retired in President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice- Moschino, where he has been ceo president. Prior to Nike, she had 1995. After a brief stint by John President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General since 1993. He is expected to start an eight-year career at Whirlpool. Galliano, who moved on to Chris- Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing in the coming weeks. During her tenure, Tesler as- tian Dior, Alexander McQueen offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096- RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. In a statement, LVMH chair- signed licenses for eyewear and was the first to try his hand. But POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. man Bernard Arnault said Gob- footwear and cut unwanted li- his enfant-terrible ways and eclec- FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR betti’s 20 years of international censing pacts in Japan as part of tic collections — space aliens one DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is experience in fashion and leather a campaign to clarify the position season, rockabilly the next — required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production goods would be “a key asset to the of the brand worldwide. failed to galvanize the house as it correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, second stage of the development It is understood that LVMH struggled to find a customer base please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild at Givenchy. This appointment re- remains committed to couture and consistent image. magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully flects the strategic importance of and plans to continue upgrading Macdonald has had problems screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. the prestigious Givenchy brand the Givenchy image. The house of his own. Although he went back WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED for the LVMH Group.” recently appointed its first men’s to a style rooted in French ele- MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND Prior to Moschino, Gobbetti artistic director, Ozwald Boateng, gance and sophistication, detrac- TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART worked at Bottega Veneta in the who will apply his Savile Row tors said his collections lacked WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED U.S. and Valextra in Italy. experience to Givenchy starting the insouciance that made TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. “I am very happy to become with the spring-summer 2005 Hepburn’s style so alluring. The part of the LVMH Group and to season. The beauty business also press and retail reaction has been have the opportunity to continue has been under renovation with tepid and fashion’s revolving door the development of Givenchy, a more back-to-the-roots direc- is expected to spin again.
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