9 THEWORLD OF FINE 194 fit thebillreasonably well. there aresomeunoaked orlightlyoaked SauvignonBlancsthat can easilybuyChablis.Andiftheywant steelinessorraciness, consumers seekthisstyleofwine. If theywantChablis, from Chablisorpartsofnorthern Italy. Nor doAmerican never orrarely havethesteelinessorausterityof aChardonnay regions, isawarmpart oftheworld,anditswhitewineswill a morerestrained useof well asbarrels,blocked orpartialmalolacticfermentation, and work withtechniquessuchaspartialfermentation intanksas California Chardonnaycan beheftyandinelegant, sothey Winemakers arealsoconscious oftheaccusationthat identify thestylistictypicityofstate’s numerousregions. in California. Regionality isimportant,aswinemakers seekto popular inGreatBritain. from thatofLindemansBin65Chardonnay, whichhasbeenso market. Nor isthestyleuniquetoCalifornia. It isnotremote the manyotherwineriesaimingfor thesameconsiderable then became themodelnotonlyfor Kendall-Jackson butfor and releasedanywayprovedahugehitwiththepublic.It more thantheusualamountofresidualsugar. It wasbottled winemaker Jed Steelefound himselfwithawinethathad Jackson’s Vintner’s Reserve,fashioned almostbymistake when The textbookexampleofthiscommercialstyleisKendall- and shouldfinishsweetthoughnotsugary. than austere,softintexturewithnoroughedges, like. It shouldbedrinkableonrelease, oakyrather expectations ofwhataChardonnayshouldtaste United States.Thismeanstherearecertain variety withgenericwhitewine—atleastinthe widespread identification ofthisclassicgrape California Chardonnaysuffers fromthestill- (savor) Alison Buchanan Stephen Brook Yet winemakers areawarethatCalifornia, eveninits“cool” Of course,therearemanyotherapproachesto terms whilebeingtruetoone’s standardsandtaste.Alongwith style amongtheCalifornia Chardonnaysofarecentvintage bâtonnage CHARDONNAY CALIFORNIA emphasizes theneedtotake winesontheirown . and ISSUE 17 2007 Oz Clarke 2004 , hefound arange ofqualityand Nor areallpartsofSonoma idealfor thevariety: Thelower southerly areas,nearSanPablo Bay, can produce goodwines. mostly toohotfor Chardonnaytothrive,although themore of Napa andSonomacan beone-dimensional.Napa itselfis true ofCarneros,thoughthewines fromthisbreezyextension elegant styleofCalifornia Chardonnay, andthesamecan be when itseemssensibletodoso. who arepreparedtofollow theBurgundian leadbyacidifying rare tofindCalifornia Chardonnayproducers,suchashimself, offlavor. thateasilybecomeflabbyorlacklength It is with lowlevelsofacidityintheirChardonnays,resulting been closeto16%,evenfromthe“cool”RussianRiverValley. example, someChardonnaysfromWilliams-Selyemthathave not adominantfeature. Onecan hardlysaythesameof,for intensity offlavortoensurethatthealcoholisintegrated and even premierscrus,with14%,buttheyusuallyhavesufficient they wouldbe.True, inagreat yearyoucan findgrands crus, be happywithsimilarlevelsofalcohol?”Well, no, I’mnotsure Burgundian growerscouldgetfullripenesseveryyear, they’d raised theissuewithhim,replied:“Don’t youthinkif around 14.5%.He makes for noapology thisandonce,whenI face butteriness,yetevenhisSonomaChardonnayscomeinat Chardonnay winemaker, seekingelegance rather thanin-your- market withunder14%ofalcohol.David Rameyisaskilled prevailing styleofChardonnay. RareistheChardonnayon Forman, andHanzell, hasitsplace. Chardonnay, aspracticed byChateau Montelena, Mayacamas, malo” counterparts.Nevertheless, thisleanerstyleof Chardonnay agessignificantly betterandlongerthanits“full Laube disputethis,findingnoevidencethatnon-malolactic and ageswell.ExperiencedAmerican writerssuchasJames Chardonnay withblocked malolacticretainsmorefreshness Californian styleofChardonnay. Somewinemakers argue that Certainly RussianRiverisaprimesourceofthemore Ramey alsopointsoutthatmostwinemakers arecontent The newgodofhang-timemayalsodeterminethe Richness andgenerosityareamongthehallmarksofa

Image courtesy of the artist, Valentino Monticello. www.valentinomonticello.com +44 1925 650 931 may evoke connotationsamongourolderreaders. to thisstyleasthe“CarmenMiranda syndrome,”aphrase that one-dimensional. Paso Robleswinemaker GaryEberle refers an overttropical-fruit character thatcan befatiguing aswell extent EdnaValley andMonterey too, can producewineswith other estateswillconfirm.ButSantaBarbara, andtosome as fans ofthenumerousbottlingsfromAu BonClimatand produced inthemorewesterly, coolerareasofSantaBarbara, on aregular basis. the coolPacific fogs thatblowinto regions suchasSantaMaria often citedasaperfect areafor growingChardonnay, thanksto Chardonnay grapes. In southernCalifornia, SantaBarbara is stretches ofAlexanderValley arefar toohotfor good-quality that oftenseemremotefromthe California Chardonnayhastobe It iscertainlytruethatsome outstandingChardonnaysare California for producingwines It wouldbewrongtoreproach accepted onitsownterms. Burgundian benchmarks. have beenexpected. there werefewer flabby, ponderouswines thanmight other early-ripeningvarieties wereharvestedquickly, so least intheNorth Coastregions, butChardonnayand experience ofgrowingthese clones. us arecompetenttoexplorewithouthavinghaddirect California climate.Butthesearecomplexissuesthatfew of “Dijon” clonesarenecessarilybetteradaptedtothe means ofpoorquality, anditisunclearwhethertheFrench choice wereofFrench origin.TheDavis cloneswerebyno clones propagatedbyUCDavis, butby2000theclonesof among themostexpensiveexamples. or heavy-handed,sincetheseremaincommonfaults, even decrying examplesthatstrike them asclumsy, overblown, in aWest Coastclimate.Nor shoulditdeterthemfrom strike themaspositive interpretationsofthegrape grown to thosecharacteristics ofCalifornia Chardonnaythat not preventwinecriticsfromseekingtoidentifyandpoint Chardonnay hastobeacceptedonitsownterms.Thatneed rather thanthemarginal climateofBurgundy. California limestone inCalifornia; andthereisabundantsunshine benchmarks for thevariety. ThereisnoKimmeridgian wines thatoftenseemremotefromtheBurgundian There wereperiodsofconsiderable heatin2004,at Until themid-1990s,mostvineyardswereplantedwith It wouldbewrongtoreproachCalifornia for producing ISSUE 17 2007 THE WORLD OFFINE WINE195 (savor) CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY

does have acidity to balance—sustained, SB: Dumb nose. Fresh, crisp attack, with toasted finish. 14.5 good fruit concentration and a refreshing SB: Muted oaky nose, with some lurking sherbetty quality. Stone fruits rather than tropical-fruit aromas. Rich, full-bodied, citrus, but without any overripeness. Well quite tight and powerful; has some grip and balanced and stylish, even if far from concentration, as well as spice and vigor. complex. Moderate length. 16 The is quite pronounced, but this has OC: Pale gold. Pleasant, slightly more energy and pizzazz than most of macaroony nose. Good, rich, rather these Sonoma wines. Acidity balances the overripe style, but it is quite good. Full; a ripeness nicely, so that there’s no excess bit fat, but good, nutty weight and some anywhere. A sumptuous yet bracing and acid balance. Not that focused, but it‘s stylish wine. Doesn’t have huge length, so good, somewhat solid stuff. 15 best drunk within 3 years. 17.5 AB: Deep yellow-gold/pale amber, this is a stones and herbs. Good. 16.5 OC: A pale green-gold. Attractive puffed- beautiful-looking wine. The nose delivers Ridge Montebello Santa Cruz wheat nose. Pretty good. A little more acid the familiar hot brioche component, lifted Mountains – 16 than I expected, but there’s a good, nutty, by citrus zest and spice. The palate is AB: Not immediately attractive on the toasty character, too, and some viscosity. It unctuous and very ripe but fresh, clean, and nose, which is rather subdued. The palate isn’t thrilling, but it’s a pretty nice, direct zesty. This will work with food. 16 is fulsome and ripe, sweet and honeyed, Chardie, though the acid is a little intrusive. SB: Muted buttery nose, ripe stone fruits, but it rather lacks focus. 14.5 Pity, since the finish is toasty and and a slight but restrained exoticism. Rich, SB: Powerful nose with a lot of oak, very attractive. 14.5 full-bodied, concentrated; has weight and toasty, almost charred. Rich, full-bodied; La Crema Sonoma Coast – 16 density; fine texture, with some juicy, bruised apple; some spice. This has Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch Rued AB: Rich gold in color, this has an pronounced yet not excessive oakiness. weight of fruit but lacks a little acidity to Russian River Valley – 15.5 appetizing nose, controlled and poised with Has spice and vigor and some complexity, balance it. Still, there’s admirable presence AB: Pale, glittering gold, this has little to Landmark Overlook – 15.5 light spice and white flowers vying with too. There’s power, but there’s nothing and personality, with ample oaky bite on offer on the nose—very restrained with AB: Lovely yellow-gold in color, this is honeyed fruit. The palate mirrors the ungainly or forced here. A fine Chardonnay the finish. Has swagger rather than vague hints of stone and orchard fruit and immediately appealing. The nose presents Grgich Hills Napa Valley – 17 complexity of the nose—all controlled and with a strong personality. Long and finesse. Moderate length. 17 crushed stone minerality. Rich, full, clean, stone fruits, honey, and white flowers, AB: Pristeen yellow-gold, this has a lovely with no imbalance. There is a refreshing lift sustained. 18 OC: Quite full, bright green-gold. Quite rich and ripe. Luscious fruit, Well made but with a warm biscuit, vanilla richness— nose—a delicious and appetizing blend of that complements and offsets the toasted OC: Deep gold. Big, rich, old-style but fruit. Definite rocks in here. Acid plus rocks, could use a little more focus—but not rather classical, really. Richly textured and citrus fruit, biscuit, and delicate spice. character. Well handled and long. 15 quite attractive. Touch of rubbery cream and good sturdy fruit. This is interesting, through added acidity, since its freshness creamy, with a buttered backdrop, this has There is a really lovely steely purity to the SB: Rich, broad, buttery nose, ripe apricots. but pretty good, full, rich, old-style nut not mainstream—a suggestion of moss and is already rather marked. 16 style and balance, poise and elegance, nose—stunning. The palate reflects the Rich, opulent, but not too heavy—there’s a syrup. It’s a little bit like a basic steak-and- nuts, and sweet, green sap. It’s full and SB: Discreet oaky nose, with a touch of despite its obvious opulence. 16.5 nose in its focus and precision—vibrant, vein of acidity streaking through the wine, kidney pie set among an array of Magret deep and proud, with a rocky, turbulent stewed apricot. Fresh attack, ample SB: A no-holds-barred nose with plenty of full, ripe, and yet always extremely poised. giving a bright and even fresh aftertaste. de Canard, but it’s pretty decent old-timer quality that makes it a challenging drink. concentration, lively acidity, giving a oak and tropical fruit. Big, lush, creamy, full- Lovely. 17.5 This has good length and even some stuff. 15 Later, there’s more wood, more brooding brightness that one hopes to find from bodied, and concentrated, with a SB: A lot of oak on the nose, and a distinct minerality. Stylish, not overblown, and well fruit, and more rough-hewn pleasure. 17 Russian River. Oak kept in check. There’s Californian radiance in place of European appley tone. Reasonably fresh, succulent, balanced, if no great depth of flavor. 16.5 some elegance and flair here, but it does finesse. A crowd-pleaser with masses of ripe; underpinned generously by the oak, OC: Quite bright gold. Pleasant style. Simi Sonoma County – 16 lack persistence and depth. 15.5 up-front fruit and modest acidity—a good apples, and pears. Quite good acidity gives Restrained but tasty. A little spice, some AB: Shimmering gold in color, this OC: Nice green-gold. Full, fresh, modern, example of this style. Lacks length, and not it some verve. This seems an excellent nutty lees contact, and a spine of minerality presents honeyed citrus and stone fruit on apple, lemon-curd, and yeast-lees nose. for long aging. 15.5 example of Carneros Chardonnay—not that stays right through, even when the the nose, with floral and pastry notes Pleasant, balanced, easy. This is attractive, OC: Quite full green-gold. Fairly wild complex, but satisfying and balanced, with flavor fattens out to peach and a hint of adding to the complexity. The palate is ripe gently satisfying. Some mildly toffeed oak, yeast/nut nose. Fairly acid and yet rather considerable length and elegance. 16.5 quince at the end. 16.5 and creamy, with some mineral contrast. some decent gentle apple-sauce fruit and sauvage. This funky style really needs OC: Good, full, traditional, viscous nose. Something of a contradiction, though there lemony acid. But I expected a brighter, slightly ripe fruit. It finishes nutty and fresh, Pretty good sauvage style. Full, oatmeal Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch are rich and lean characters in layers. 14.5 zestier style from the nose. 14.5 but the whole package doesn’t quite work. and sausage meat (honest—it’s good!) and Russian River Valley – 16 SB: Bright exotic nose, with a whiff of The funk seems to dominate the fruit. 14 nice acid balance. Very Burgundian style: AB: Deep old gold in color. Very honeyed, pineapple; has aromatic charm. Fresh, Acid is nicely integrated, oak and lees are in warm brioche nose, with an attractive clean, lively, with welcome acidity and lift. harmony. The whole thing is a very citrus refeshment. Palate is precise, fresh, Quite concentrated and oaky, but has attractive package: savory, soft, refreshing, and focused, while offering an opulence plenty of drive and a dash of minerality. just hinting at a few days spent walking on Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County and ripeness that will go beautifully with Plenty of ripe fruit, but it’s balanced and the wild side. 17 – 16 food. Lovely balance. 17 stylish and would be a pleasure to drink. AB: Deep green-gold, this has a rather SB: Shows a lot of color for a young Perhaps a hint of sweetness on the finish, interesting, herbaceous nose, fresh and Chardonnay. Big, voluptuous nose, with ripe but not enough to throw the wine off appetizing—steely and focused. The palate peach and exotic fruit such as mango. balance. Quite good length. 17 reflects the nose, with elegance and Broad, lush, creamy—definitely the riper end OC: Quite bright green-gold. Attractive precision that continues through a long, of the Russian River spectrum, with perhaps style. Reasonably full, pleasantly balanced, poised finish. 16.5 too much weight given the modest acidity. A and nutty. Some attractive porridge-oat SB: Muted nose, hint of pineapple. generous and baggy crowd-pleasing style dustiness and a little smoky spice. Good Medium-boded but has some intensity and at the expense of finesse, but reasonably texture, good balance. This isn’t the most successful within its own terms. 14.5 purity of flavor. Lean, citric aftertaste, with ambitious of Chardonnays, but so what? Ramey Hudson Vineyard Napa OC: Fairly bright green-gold. Fairly full, a good thread of acidity. Not a complex It’s a very attractive, balanced style. 16.5 Frog’s Leap Napa Valley – 15.5 Valley/Carneros – 15.5 mellow style. A little cream and fresh apple wine, but focused and reasonably long. 15 AB: Lemon-gold in color, this has the nose AB: Rich gold/pale amber in color; steely, fruit. Some slightly green cobnut flesh. OC: Fair green-gold. Very attractive, easy Chalk Hill Russian River Valley – 15.5 of biscuit and citrus fruit. The palate is mineral nose—rather intriguing. The palate is Good, quite lean, refreshing, fairly lemony mix of leesy yeast and acidity, and very AB: Pale yellow-gold—we are back in rather taut and lively, fresh and bright—a full, ripe, and rather classical, but with acidity; crisp and cleansing, and it does nice, rather buxom fruit. Good apple and vanilla-custard land with this wine. far cry from many of the rather more obese toasted notes and vanilla in the background. soften and broaden out at the end. Pretty peach flesh, attractive acid and a little Unctuous, full, and ripe, it evokes warm samples, and probably less of a crowd There is a richness of fruit, largely apples and Mount Eden Santa Cruz good, cool, mainstream style, balanced and wax—very nice, direct, tarty stuff, just pastry notes, pain au raisin, and grilled, pleaser, but it will be good with food. A bit pears, blended with vanilla cream and Mountains – 16.5 easy to enjoy. 16.5 enough sauvage character and just a hint of buttered citrus fruit. Opulent certainly, it of a thoroughbred. 15 caramel—good balance, however, overall. 15

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SB: Very ripe nose—apricot and mango. characteristic toasted notes. The palate mineral character. The palate is slightly manages to get away with it. The cream than Sonoma Chardonnay—low- SB: Discreet nose, apple and apricot; oak Ample apricot fruit and oak, and quite a has a lovely texture and good varietal fruit. diffuse, lacking precision, with a vanilla-ice- and spice are evident enough to cope with yield Trebbiano di !—so it’s a fair drink, well integrated. Medium-bodied, sleek, strong vein of acidity running through the Well made and rather fine. 16 cream character. Finish is long and rich in the slightly extracted oak, and it finishes but its flavor is of maxed-out neutrality attractive texture, moderately wine, giving it an unusually assertive SB: Evolved nose, toasty, honeyed, all the toasted oak accompanied by vibrant mellow, if a little-old fashioned. 14.5 rather than inherent personality. 12.5 concentrated with some elegance. character that’s far from unwelcome. But stops pulled out. Soft attack, broad and acidity. 14 Restrained but perhaps a touch too it’s also one-dimensional and lacks layers. peachy, voluptuous but heavy-handed, SB: Delicate, elegant nose, with discreet Rutherford Hill Napa Valley – 14.5 restrained, lacking some oomph on the Medium length. 14.5 with oak marking the finish. Bruised-apple oakiness and a pronounced citrus AB: Golden in color and exuding honeyed finish. Medium length, and fades away to OC: Quite green still. Savory and lovage flavors and an overall flabbiness I could do character: lemon and lime. Fresh, delicate, orchard fruit on the nose, this is initially blankness. 14.5 herbs nose: fresh, herb-scented, then without. 13 indeed light, with some intensity of flavor appealing. The palate, however, lacks OC: Pleasant pale gold. Fairly full-on oak, good, dry and toasty new oak. Good style OC: Quite full yet fresh straw gold. Not rather than breadth of flavor. The oak is a precision and ends with a rather woolly, verging on the spicy caramel, but it and good acid. This is a cool style with a bad. Full yet restrained. Fair mix of dry, full bit overevident for my taste. No hidden butter character. 14 manages to stay dry and therefore works. surprising herb scent, but it’s good— apple and wild nutty weight—and fair acid. depths here and, given the attractive SB: Smoky, oaky nose, but elegant Good mellow acidity, a lick of finely original, refreshing acidity, beguiling nutty Good wine that hasn’t attempted to push attack, a disappointing lack of length. 14.5 nonetheless. A rich, succulent style, with polished oak, and an attractive, full, dry texture, and a satisfying mix of apple and the envelope very far. 15.5 OC: Fairly pale. Full, soft, round, mellow ample apricot-and-pear character and a flavor of nuts and peach balanced by lemon peach fruit, with weight and acid zip. 17 style, a little spice, and fair, full, but dry sleek texture. Not a wine with much and softened with caramel. 16 Ramey Hyde Vineyard Napa Valley/ glycerine texture. Just a hint of cedarwood. finesse, but has generosity and opulence Carneros – 15 I sort of expect a little more flavor from this Ferrari-Carano Reserve Napa/ and some depth of flavor. Quite a big style Beringer Private Reserve Napa Valley AB: Rich yellow-gold, this has an assertive style. It’s good, but it promises more than Sonoma – 14.5 for Carneros and far from refreshing, yet it – 14 nose, rich in honeyed orchard fruit and it delivers. Attractive, full toast and spice, AB: Rich yellow-gold, this shows some remains impressive. 17 AB: Yellow-gold in color, this is rather flowers, with some understated caramel but all in a minor key. 15 restraint on the nose yet evokes the idea of OC: Fair green-gold. Quite fresh, toast and subdued on the nose, with understated, notes. On the palate, warm apples and a sun-blushed apple . Richly apple nose, slight rubber. Palate fairly full somewhat green fruit, herbaceous, with a pears come through, combined with vanilla Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley – 14.5 textured, it coats the palate, yet there is and rich, baked apple and lemon peel, quite citrus vitality. The palate reflects the nose, cream. A big wine, this shows decent AB: Rich gold in color, clinging to the glass, a clear layer of acidity. This has richness weighty but not really exciting—full baked with attractive richness allied to pretty balance but is probably a one- or a half- this is relatively restrained on the nose, just and freshness but not, at this juncture, in fruit plus acid and a little glycerine freshness. 15 glasser. 14.5 hinting at apple skins and mineral notes. the right order. This may change with thickness. 13 SB: Delicate bruised-apple nose. Soft SB: Lean, appley nose, quite fresh and The palate is ripe and full, richly textured time. 13.5 attack, lacks concentration and bite, easy- bracing. Ripe and juicy with a hint of and attractively balanced—rather classical SB: Pretty nose, quite tropical, apricot going and bland. Soon fades. Modest fruit, sweetness; has some concentration if not in style—trim, poised, and elegant. 15 and pineapple. Fresh attack, but there modest . Not bad—just dull and much intensity of flavor. One-dimensional SB: Delicate nose of apricot and pears. seems to be some unwelcome sweetness short. 12 but lively, with an appealing toastiness. For Medium-bodied, reasonably fresh, here. Has acidity that gives it some zest, OC: Slightly old-style cream and nuts, and Cuvaison Napa Valley (Carneros) – 15 me it’s marred by a confected quality that straightforward, supple. Pleasant but lacks but the fruit quality seems overripe. Still, it phenolic weight. There’s also just a little AB: Green-gold in color, this looks effusive undermines is purity of fruit. 15 some vigor and personality. Strolling along, has more vigor than most and a brisk, clean volatile lift and a streak of metal (okay). It’s a but has a surprisingly restrained nose. The OC: Fair green-gold. Nose of Kerrygold singing a song—but without much purpose finish. 15.5 slightly baked style, some rice pudding and palate presents a mass of perfumed fruit butter—yum! Still some nice melted butter, or interest. Modest length. 13 OC: Fairly green. Fresh apple and pear, and overprocessed peach nuts, so you have a on attack, really floral: violets and roses and but good, acid apple flavor and nutty oak OC: Quite full green-gold. Nose good, a little leather, on the nose. Palate fresh, couple of mouthfuls and then move on. 14.5 white flowers more than identifiable fruit. too. This is pretty good. Quite cool in style, fresh, attractive. Palate good, fresh, full—a bright—lemon and apple peel. Attractive, The aromatics continue throughout a long the acid a little high, but pretty good yeast welcome streak of mineral and quite direct balanced, not exciting, but some cream Iron Horse Rued Clone Sonoma honeyed finish. Interesting wine. 15 and nut depth. 16 lemon acid and apple flesh. But pretty nice and toast and acid fruit. Good, not great. Arrowood Sonoma County – 14 County Green Valley 2005 – 14 SB: Lime-cordial nose, rather confected. lightly toasted hazelnut, too, and a touch of Crisp, direct, attractive. 15 AB: Lustrous green-gold in color. Taut and AB: Shimmering green-gold in color, this is Fairly rich, juicy; plenty of fruit here if little Ramey Ritchie Vineyard Russian cedar. This is good, easy to enjoy, but not mineral on the nose, with a background of very closed on the nose, revealing very vibrancy; a good deal of oak dominating the River Valley – 15 really special. 16 honeyed, floral fruit. Rich pastry-shop/ little. Not too cold, either. The palate mid-palate, and fair acidity gives some AB: Lustrous gold in color, this presents a warm brioche notes are echoed on the presents rather restrained orchard and persistence. Straightforward and balanced rather odd nose for Chardonnay—rather palate, which is full and ripe with decent stone-fruit character complemented by if oaky. Sound, but far from exciting. 14.5 savory in character, with some mineral acidity to balance. Long, toasted finish. 13 warm pastry notes. Rather classical in OC: Quite full gold-green. Full, waxy, interest. The palate is richly textured, SB: Tropical fruit on the nose: mango, ripe style, this does not scream California. It is honeyed nose. Quite good, waxy, soft- creamy, and full but, ultimately, rather tiring peach, with a strong oaky presence, too. just a well-made wine. 15.5 edged; a little menthol and stylishly despite the acidity. Very toasted and Rich, rounded, creamy, voluptuous. A SB: Muted nose, quite oaky; apricot, polished oak. Good, full, and broad, yet buttery on the finish. 14 touch heavy-handed, but there is some banana. Medium-bodied, silky and fresh, balanced. No massive personality, some SB: Attactive tangy nose, lime and pears, welcome spice on the finish. Lacks some well balanced, but marred by a slight fat apple flesh, and soft, nutty, yeasty and a firm, oaky background. Fairly rich, concentration and essentially bland, but a cloying tone on the finish. An attractive weight. Nice, not great. 15 sleek, intense, with some good acidity and big mouthful of wine. Moderate length. 13 mouthful, but it does lack complexity. that oaky undertow. But very much on the OC: First bottle corked. Second bottle Seems to have some added acidity on the surface: brisk and well honed, but probably Hanzell Sonoma Valley – 14.5 better. Oatmeal and hazelnut nose. Palate finish. A sound and palatable wine but with giving all it has to give. The finish is fresh La Crema Russian River Valley – 14.5 AB: Pretty, lustrous green-gold. An mineral, though the oak shows through little personality. 14 and bracing, so this may best be drunk AB: Lustrous yellow-gold with green attractive, rather subtle nose, offering pure strongly. It is a little more oaky than I OC: Fairly pale straw. Very mild style. A young to retain that immediate fruitiness lights, this is rather dull on the nose, stone fruit and attractive mineral focus. expected, and the oatmeal doesn’t quite little minerality, but also lifted volatility that and vigor. Quite good length. 16 revealing little, and a trifle dilute. The The palate is sweet and ripe with no leave the Meursault suppleness it needs more body weight to work. It also OC: Quite bright, fresh gold-green. palate, similarly, fails to excite, though excesses. There is acidity, but it is well promised, but it’s still a good, full, flashy slowly warms up in the mouth and shows Attractive nose, fresh and perfumed, yet some gentle floral aromatics appear mid- integrated and fits the bill so that, overall, style, well balanced with a little oak a little more richness, but it isn’t particularly some toffee, too. Fair acid and fair palate and remain throughout a sustained there is decent balance. 14 perfume and fair acid balance. 15.5 interesting. The acetic edge doesn’t really minerality. Good, full, fun—not thrilling, but honeyed finish. 14.5 SB: Dumb nose. Fresh, crisp, fairly simple, grab me. Well, it does grab me, but not it has more of the component parts, even if SB: Sweet, oaky nose, quite toasty. Fresh but it’s clean and brisk, with attractive apple Arrowood Sonoma County Unfined – where I want it to. 12.5 the nut, toast, and full, dry apple fruit don’t attack, evidently ripe, apricot and peach, and apricot fruit. There’s no complexity 14 quite fit together. 15 with some oaky bite on the mid-palate. here, but also no sense that the winemaking AB: Rich yellow-gold/very pale amber, with Kendall–Jackson Grand Reserve Well balanced, though little depth here. is striving to impress. The acidity is bright flashes of green. Rather closed on the Monterey/Santa Barbara – 14 Arrowood Alary Vineyards Russian Straightforward but satisfying, with only and carries through on to the finish. Very nose, taut and mineral. This is rather AB: Cripes! Someone has harvested Chateau Montelena Napa Valley – 15 River Valley Unfined – 14.5 moderate length. 14.5 well made and enjoyable. 16.5 intriguing, since it is beautifully restrained, butter. On the nose there can be no other AB: Yellow-gold in color, this has rather AB: Pale yellow/green-gold in color, this OC: Quite attractive pale straw. Spicy, OC: Curious, rather syrupy and phenolic, surprising, even elegant, with toasted tasting note… and then some orchard fruit unexpected herbaceous character on the offers hints of hints of biscuit, warm pastry slightly gingery nose. Pretty good. A little and a strange mix of fat yet neutral stewed buttered character only coming through on sneaks in stage left to offset the richness. nose. This opens up to reveal more and spice on the nose, allied to some dilute fat and a touch of phenolics, but it fruit and pepper. It’s more like an overripe a long finish, refreshed by citrus zest. 12 Palate is surprisingly fresh and gregarious

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after the nose, with good acidity and a Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River Second sample slightly better: rather little dull, and the acid really is too insistent Marimar Estate Don Miguel Vineyard SB: Lush, tropical-fruit nose with a lot of fresh lift. Well handled. 16 Ranches Sonoma Coast – 14 menthol, sorrel character. Better than first in the overall scheme of things. 12 Torres Family Vineyards Russian oak. Opulent, sweet, full-bodied, with a SB: Shy nose: apricot, peach, mango. AB: Pale gold in color, this is rather but rather too minty. 12 River Valley – 13 whack of added acidity. This is over the top Soft, sagging, plump, with little acidity or restrained on the nose, taut and mineral. SB: Lightly smoky, tropical-fruit nose; AB: Pale yellow-gold, this evokes the and cloying. Fatiguing. May be okay as an zest. 10 Not remotely what I would automatically peachy, too. Quite rich, supple, rounded; aromas of a French bakery: warm pastry, apéritif, but I can’t see this enhancing good OC: Melted-butter nose and a hint of associate with California Chardonnay, it is plenty of up-front fruit, underpinned by vanilla, and delicate spice, allied to a warm food. Also lacks length. 11 perfume. Palate full and fat. Lots of pure, taut, and yet ripe, with a classical some toasty oak. Reasonably balanced, compote of orchard fruit. Rich and ripe, this OC: Quite intense green-gold. Nose a little fluffy apple and pear flesh. Good, full, framework and a refreshing lift. A finely though the acidity is modest. No depth or has an attractive balance and good smoky and meaty but attractive. Palate full, quite fatty, buttery style—but in balance. boned thoroughbred of a wine—though complexity but satisfying. Would be better precision—well handled and rather elegant quite rich, a touch of grilled pork chop. Not a turgid malo style but a ripe round probably does not get the scores. 16.5 without that hint of sweetness on the and poised. 16.5 Some candied apple and a little style. Good, typically attractive, SB: Muted aromas, rather dominated finish. 14 SB: Rather confected nose, peach syrup. unnecessary sweetness. I think there is a southern style. 16.5 by oak. Good attack, with some acidity OC: Quite full, fat, rather harsh. Acid plus Rich, opulent, lush, and veering toward touch of sulfide or overbaked oak in this and zest. Stone-fruit flavors and a sweet- rather rich, strong, OTT dates and dried St Francis Sonoma County – 13.5 blowsiness, despite a vein of acidity. Plenty that spoils it. 11.5 and-sour tang that suggests this comes apple from a health-food store. Big, rather AB: Rich old gold in color, this is a trifle tiring of fruit but one-dimensional. Blunt finish, from a fairly cool area. This bracing oxidized, hot country style. It is striving for on the nose—butterscotch, warm brioche, so little length or complexity. 12.5 character is welcome, though it’s not a a more subtle and elegant style, but it isn’t and vanilla cream to the fore. The palate OC: Fairly full gold. Baked apples wine with huge complexity or depth. achieving it. Second bottle: sage and echoes the nose, with a rich texture and and raisin, Danish-pastry nose, and Moderate length, with a perky, refreshing savory nose, less OTT. Still a full and ripe seductively ripe fruit. Some refreshment but Lactobacillus. Big, full, overripe, acid and finish. 15.5 style but more acid. Even so, it seems a bit pretty hefty on the oak front. Winemaker’s raisiny fruit, with malolactic cream and a OC: Big, old-style, nut-husk smell. Big, hot really to get a lot of Chardie character. wine, perhaps—huge. 13 whiff of frankincense. Yes, I wonder where phenolic, high acid, high extract, rough oak, Some Brazil nut and lovage and baked SB: Dumb but evidently ripe nose; quite that idea came from, too. 10 and a basically anachronistic hollow whale apple. Quite good, not great. 15 oaky. Medium-bodied and rather slack, of a wine. I’m trying to think of what might lacking concentration and bite. A routine Justin Vineyards and Reserve make this enjoyable—which dish, Landmark Damaris Reserve Sonoma effort, with decent stone-fruit character and Paso Robles – 12.5 perhaps—but I can think of none that are Valley – 13.5 light acidity a pretty apricot finish, but without AB: Yellow-gold and still feels oxidized with easily available in a wine region. 10 AB: Back to French pastry shops for this depth or personality. Fades fast. 13 second sample. Butter—and butter that has Matanzas Creek Winery Sonoma one: rich and buttery with vanilla in the air. OC: Quite full gold. Pleasant but caramelly been left out all night…The palate is better, Valley – 14 Robert Mondavi Winery Chardonnay The texture on the palate is opulent and nose: hint of polished wood. Big, rich, buttery again certainly, and not my style, Joseph Swan Vineyards Trenton Estate AB: Rich gold in color, this has the air of Reserve Carneros/Napa Valley – 13.5 seductive, complex and ripe, with orchard hazelnutty, viscous—and yet it’s fresh. I but I’m sure there are palates dedicated to Vineyard Russian River Valley – 11.5 custard made with a plethora of fresh AB: Back here to the land of butter. Hugely fruit layered with citrus freshness and haven’t had a Chardie like this for a while, and this richness. Toasted, long finish. 13 AB: Rich old gold in color, this also appears vanilla. It is hard to know what you could rich and caramelized on the nose. Cream, vanilla cream. Although oak is not my thing, it isn’t my favorite style, but this is a good SB: Evolved golden color. Stewed peach old in style, with a beery, apple-skin nose. serve with it, except that there is a fashion grilled bananas, and toffee come to the this is well balanced and shows skilled example: It’s well balanced in its lush-hipped nose, honeyed, very evolved for 2004. Seems old-fashioned and more cider than for fish with vanilla. It is massive on the fore. While the nose begs the question winemaking (how patronizing!). 16.5 way, though I can’t see myself drinking more Broad, lush, soft, bosomy, with a whack of wine. Not my style. 10 nose. The palate is actually slightly more whether to use it as a sauce for ice cream, SB: Hefty, tropical-fruit nose—overblown. than a glass or so. It sort of reminds me of added acidity that doesn’t prevent it from SB: Super-ripe nose, peach syrup, subdued and reveals some warm orchard- the palate is much more balanced, with Big, swaggering, opulent, with a distinct slightly burned rice pudding. 14 fading fast on the finish. Drink soon. 12 pineapple. Voluptuous, rounded, but not fruit tones—apples and pears warmed with obvious ripeness and toasted character overripeness as well as searing added OC: Big, full, marmalade style; rich, but that concentrated, with some odd acidity butter and cream. Big, though, and a tad married to acidity. 16 acidity. Don’t see this coming easily into rather OTT and oxidized. Wines 41 and 42 on the aftertaste that seems added and tiring. 14.5 SB: Rich and rather thick, peachy, syrupy balance. Essentially clumsy, going for (both Justin Vineyards) seem to be from forced. Hollow and lacking in drive, and SB: Somewhat overripe nose, peachy, nose. Broad, slightly sweet, unusually exoticism at the expense of elegance. areas that are simply too hot. Big, soon fades away on the finish. 12 orangey, with a syrupy tone. Rounded, blowsy for Carneros, with a dash of added Despite the acidity, the finish is fairly marmalade, toffeeish, but pretty good in OC: Rather deep, glowing gold. Full, peach- juicy, with a fruit-juice character rather acidity. This is all over the place and seems short. 13 the hot-climate, old-style way. But, actually, skin nose. Big, rather baked-apple acidity, than vinosity. Rather obvious, with a hint inexpertly cobbled together. Fairly short OC: Rather full Lactobacillus nose. Full, I don’t really want to drink it. 13 and sort of stewed—rich plus skinsy acidity of alcohol on the finish. One- and blunt. 11 rather rich, and fat. Flabby cream just and honey. It’s a decent enough wine in a dimensional, with a slightly metallic OC: Full green-gold. A big fat nose. Pretty beginning to sour and a slack-jawed Silverado Vineyards Vineburg style that has largely been relegated to the finish. A forced, arm-twisting wine with fat palate-wise, too. Yet there is some texture. This may have been an ambitious Carneros – 12.5 dusty shelf of a country store (not the no luminosity. 13 quality still in these old-timer styles. It’s attempt, but it wasn’t well done. 10.5 AB: Rather strange, twisted nose here— Jimtown or the Oakville!). 12 OC: Fair body and decent acidity. Good, fair, it’s full, it’s smoky, but it’s well enough rather chemical and plastic—that was full flavor but no massive character. Good balanced, though I still find the effort put Marimar Estate Don Miguel reflected on the palate and made for a Saintsbury Brown Ranch Carneros – 11 apple flesh, some lemon, and some into extraction and oak not matched by the Vineyard Dobles Lías Russian River difficult tasting. Some fruit and interest on AB: Richly textured and golden colored, pleasant nut-syrupy softness. Quite a pleasure on the palate. 14 Valley – 13.5 the finish. 10 this was surprisingly restrained on the pleasant, acid-balanced wine, without AB: Yellow-green gold, this is relatively Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch Napa SB: Discreet appley nose, with a light nose. Vague chemical notes did come any great excitement. 15 subdued on the nose given its color: some Valley/Carneros – 13.5 toastiness. Plump, rounded, creamy, but through (unfortunately), but very little stewed orchard fruit with apricot notes. AB: Rich old gold in color. This is, I soft—lacks verve and excitement; indeed, positive fruit character. Palate reflects Sanford Santa Barbara County – 14 The palate is rather more gregarious, suspect, what most people believe to be slightly blowsy. No energy or drive here, nose, with rather chemical fruit and then an AB: Pale gold, this was extremely buttery seductively ripe, and honeyed, while benchmark: oaky smoky and super-ripe, and only modest length. Drink soon. 13.5 oaked finish. Not my style. 10 on the nose initially but then became retaining a certain freshness. The finish is with lashings of butter and vanilla cream. OC: Fair green-gold. Rather stony, raw SB: Firm, appley nose. Medium-bodied, more mineral. Orchard fruit and vanilla long and rich, ripe and generous. An oak Better balance than many here, and not as apple-flesh nose. Palate not bad, fair acid, not that concentrated, falls off on the cream prevail on the palate. Warm pastry lover’s crowd-pleaser. 16 tiring, with good freshness and focus, apple flesh, then some buttered Brazil aftertaste. Correct but dull, with a drizzle of and citrus notes make for a very good SB: Some overripeness evident on though the acidity is rather high. 14.5 nuts. Not exciting. Hint of meaty malolactic added acidity on the finish. One- balance. 16 the nose, with pineapple aromas and a SB: Oaky, peachy aromas. Medium- fat. Okay balance, but doesn’t quite deliver. dimensional; frankly dull. 12 SB: Muted nose, quite waxy, peachy. stewed-fruit character. Broad and lush, yet bodied, gently sweet, soft-textured, and a Sort of empty. 14 OC: Quite pale green-gold. A bit creamy Medium-bodied, slack, rather sweet, a rather hollow, with a touch of residual lot of alcohol on the finish. Coarse, and malolactic. Rather fat and slovenly, blunt oakiness on the mid-palate—all adds sweetness alongside a bizarre tartness, as unbalanced, flabby. 9 Rochioli Russian River Valley – 12 smoky cream and a hint of cheese. Big, up to a wine with little energy and though a blend of overripe and slightly green OC: Quite intense gold-green. Strong AB: This golden beauty presents ungainly, malolactic style. 11 personality. Low acidity, so drink soon. 11 fruit to add acidity. Not convinced by this. 12 apple and pear blossom—round, full, soft something intriguing, with a nose that OC: A little fuller and more honeyed; Justin Vineyards and Winery Paso OC: Mid-gold. A bizarre, menthol and fruit. Fresh, attractive, rather waxy texture, could almost be ill-handled Sauvignon, with Talley Vineyards also dispatched wines, but attractive, quite rich, and round; a bit stony Robles – 13.5 aftershave nose. Does this rather curious, and decent acid and bright fruit. Modern, gooseberry and nettle and whitecurrants. these did not arrive in time for the tasting, but still attractive. Good, stony, quite full; AB: Deep golden/pale amber color. scented, menthol character come from bright, attractive; some mineral and some Chardonnay makes its debut on the palate, due to courier difficulties. hint of toasted nuts; attractive, leaner, Oxidized on the nose. Hot, earthy soil. We the wood, I wonder? On the palate, the depth. Very subtly oaked but a good fresh, which is rich and full, creamy and ripe, but southern style. 15.5 requested a second sample to be fair. wine that is both fairly full and acid, yet a vibrant feel and texture. 16.5 rather short on lift and focus. 13.5 Glasses kindly supplied by Riedel UK.

200 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE ISSUE 17 2007 ISSUE 17 2007 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE 201