2004 California Chardonnay

(savor) 2004 CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY Stephen Brook emphasizes the need to take wines on their own terms while being true to one’s standards and taste. Along with Alison Buchanan and Oz Clarke, he found a range of quality and style among the California Chardonnays of a recent vintage California Chardonnay suffers from the still- Richness and generosity are among the hallmarks of a widespread identification of this classic grape Californian style of Chardonnay. Some winemakers argue that variety with generic white wine—at least in the Chardonnay with blocked malolactic retains more freshness and ages well. Experienced American writers such as James United States. This means there are certain Laube dispute this, finding no evidence that non-malolactic expectations of what a Chardonnay should taste Chardonnay ages significantly better and longer than its “full like. It should be drinkable on release, oaky rather malo” counterparts. Nevertheless, this leaner style of than austere, soft in texture with no rough edges, Chardonnay, as practiced by Chateau Montelena, Mayacamas, Forman, and Hanzell, has its place. and should finish sweet though not sugary. The new god of hang-time may also determine the prevailing style of Chardonnay. Rare is the Chardonnay on the The textbook example of this commercial style is Kendall- market with under 14% of alcohol. David Ramey is a skilled stretches of Alexander Valley are far too hot for good-quality It would be wrong to reproach California for producing Jackson’s Vintner’s Reserve, fashioned almost by mistake when Chardonnay winemaker, seeking elegance rather than in-your- Chardonnay grapes. In southern California, Santa Barbara is wines that often seem remote from the Burgundian winemaker Jed Steele found himself with a wine that had face butteriness, yet even his Sonoma Chardonnays come in at often cited as a perfect area for growing Chardonnay, thanks to benchmarks for the variety. There is no Kimmeridgian more than the usual amount of residual sugar. It was bottled around 14.5%. He makes no apology for this and once, when I the cool Pacific fogs that blow into regions such as Santa Maria limestone in California; and there is abundant sunshine and released anyway and proved a huge hit with the public. It raised the issue with him, replied: “Don’t you think if on a regular basis. rather than the marginal climate of Burgundy. California then became the model not only for Kendall-Jackson but for Burgundian growers could get full ripeness every year, they’d It is certainly true that some outstanding Chardonnays are Chardonnay has to be accepted on its own terms. That need the many other wineries aiming for the same considerable be happy with similar levels of alcohol?” Well, no, I’m not sure produced in the more westerly, cooler areas of Santa Barbara, not prevent wine critics from seeking to identify and point market. Nor is the style unique to California. It is not remote they would be. True, in a great year you can find grands crus, as fans of the numerous bottlings from Au Bon Climat and to those characteristics of California Chardonnay that from that of Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay, which has been so even premiers crus, with 14%, but they usually have sufficient other estates will confirm. But Santa Barbara, and to some strike them as positive interpretations of the grape grown popular in Great Britain. intensity of flavor to ensure that the alcohol is integrated and extent Edna Valley and Monterey too, can produce wines with in a West Coast climate. Nor should it deter them from Of course, there are many other approaches to Chardonnay not a dominant feature. One can hardly say the same of, for an overt tropical-fruit character that can be fatiguing as well as decrying examples that strike them as clumsy, overblown, in California. Regionality is important, as winemakers seek to example, some Chardonnays from Williams-Selyem that have one-dimensional. Paso Robles winemaker Gary Eberle refers or heavy-handed, since these remain common faults, even identify the stylistic typicity of the state’s numerous regions. been close to 16%, even from the “cool” Russian River Valley. to this style as the “Carmen Miranda syndrome,” a phrase that among the most expensive examples. Winemakers are also conscious of the accusation that Ramey also points out that most winemakers are content may evoke connotations among our older readers. Until the mid-1990s, most vineyards were planted with California Chardonnay can be hefty and inelegant, so they with low levels of acidity in their Chardonnays, resulting in clones propagated by UC Davis, but by 2000 the clones of work with techniques such as partial fermentation in tanks as wines that easily become flabby or lack length of flavor. It is It would be wrong to reproach choice were of French origin. The Davis clones were by no well as barrels, blocked or partial malolactic fermentation, and rare to find California Chardonnay producers, such as himself, means of poor quality, and it is unclear whether the French a more restrained use of bâtonnage. who are prepared to follow the Burgundian lead by acidifying California for producing wines “Dijon” clones are necessarily better adapted to the Yet winemakers are aware that California, even in its “cool” when it seems sensible to do so. California climate. But these are complex issues that few of regions, is a warm part of the world, and its white wines will Certainly Russian River is a prime source of the more that often seem remote from the us are competent to explore without having had direct never or rarely have the steeliness or austerity of a Chardonnay elegant style of California Chardonnay, and the same can be experience of growing these clones. from Chablis or parts of northern Italy. Nor do American true of Carneros, though the wines from this breezy extension Burgundian benchmarks. There were periods of considerable heat in 2004, at consumers seek this style of wine. If they want Chablis, they of Napa and Sonoma can be one-dimensional. Napa itself is least in the North Coast regions, but Chardonnay and can easily buy Chablis. And if they want steeliness or raciness, mostly too hot for Chardonnay to thrive, although the more California Chardonnay has to be other early-ripening varieties were harvested quickly, so there are some unoaked or lightly oaked Sauvignon Blancs that southerly areas, near San Pablo Bay, can produce good wines. there were fewer flabby, ponderous wines than might fit the bill reasonably well. Nor are all parts of Sonoma ideal for the variety: The lower 650 931 +44 1925 www.valentinomonticello.com Monticello. Valentino of the artist, Image courtesy accepted on its own terms. have been expected. 194 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE ISSUE 17 2007 ISSUE 17 2007 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE 195 (savor) CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY does have acidity to balance—sustained, SB: Dumb nose. Fresh, crisp attack, with toasted finish. 14.5 good fruit concentration and a refreshing SB: Muted oaky nose, with some lurking sherbetty quality. Stone fruits rather than tropical-fruit aromas. Rich, full-bodied, citrus, but without any overripeness. Well quite tight and powerful; has some grip and balanced and stylish, even if far from concentration, as well as spice and vigor. complex. Moderate length. 16 The oak is quite pronounced, but this has OC: Pale gold. Pleasant, slightly more energy and pizzazz than most of macaroony nose. Good, rich, rather these Sonoma wines. Acidity balances the overripe style, but it is quite good. Full; a ripeness nicely, so that there’s no excess bit fat, but good, nutty weight and some anywhere. A sumptuous yet bracing and acid balance. Not that focused, but it‘s stylish wine. Doesn’t have huge length, so good, somewhat solid stuff. 15 best drunk within 3 years. 17.5 AB: Deep yellow-gold/pale amber, this is a stones and herbs. Good. 16.5 OC: A pale green-gold. Attractive puffed- beautiful-looking wine. The nose delivers Ridge Montebello Santa Cruz wheat nose. Pretty good. A little more acid the familiar hot brioche component, lifted Mountains – 16 than I expected, but there’s a good, nutty, by citrus zest and spice. The palate is AB: Not immediately attractive on the toasty character, too, and some viscosity. It unctuous and very ripe but fresh, clean, and nose, which is rather subdued. The palate isn’t thrilling, but it’s a pretty nice, direct zesty. This will work with food. 16 is fulsome and ripe, sweet and honeyed, Chardie, though the acid is a little intrusive. SB: Muted buttery nose, ripe stone fruits, but it rather lacks focus. 14.5 Pity, since the finish is toasty and and a slight but restrained exoticism. Rich, SB: Powerful nose with a lot of oak, very attractive. 14.5 full-bodied, concentrated; has weight and toasty, almost charred. Rich, full-bodied; La Crema Sonoma Coast – 16 density; fine texture, with some juicy, bruised apple; some spice. This has Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch Rued AB: Rich gold in color, this has an pronounced yet not excessive oakiness. weight of fruit but lacks a little acidity to Vineyard Russian River Valley – 15.5 appetizing nose, controlled and poised with Has spice and vigor and some complexity, balance it. Still, there’s admirable presence AB: Pale, glittering gold, this has little to Landmark Overlook – 15.5 light spice and white flowers vying with too. There’s power, but there’s nothing and personality, with ample oaky bite on offer on the nose—very restrained with AB: Lovely yellow-gold in color, this is honeyed fruit.

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