Wines of the Loire
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Wines of the Loire 1 Wines of the Loire The whole of the Loire Valley, in common with much of Europe, suffered much reduced yields in 2012 but thoughts on quality generally range from very good to excellent. After a mild winter bud-break was early, but spring frosts, hail, and cold wet weather through May and June reduced yields, slowed development, and increased the threat of disease. An increase in temperature and lack of rain for four weeks from late July helped immensely, allowing many growers from Muscadet to Pouilly to make their best wines for many years. However, not all wine styles were spared: “A great year to go frog-hunting” Claude Papin of Château Pierre-Bise remarked as three weeks of rain put paid to hopes of another great sweet wine harvest. Here, with wines from every vintage between 2007 and 2012, we present perhaps our most complete Loire list ever. With four producers new to our list, and one returning after an absence of ten years, we include Muscadet, Anjou Villages Brissac, Bourgueil and Vouvray among the appellations on offer. Gordon Coates May 2013 The estates are listed in order from the source of the Loire to its mouth. 2 Mixed Cases Chenin Styles £135.00 (Two bottles each of six whites; 1 sparkling, 2 dry, 1 medium and 2 sweet) with a saving of at least 10% on the bottle prices Code CL313 Loire Sauvignon Blancs £122.00 2010 Chapin & Landais, Saumur Brut, Le Grand Saumur (p.11) (Two bottles each of six whites) 2012 Putille, Anjou Blanc Sec (p.14) 2011 Cady, Anjou Blanc, Cheninsolite (p.14) Code CL113 2010 Gaudron, Vouvray, Demi-Sec (p.8) 2012 Les Chardons, Sauvignon Blanc, 2012 Forges, Coteaux du Layon, St. Aubin (p.13) Vin de Pays de Loire (p.7) 2009 Château Pierre-Bise, Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu, 2011 Aumonier, Touraine Sauvignon (p.7) Rouannières (p.12) 2011 Chevilly, Quincy (p.6) 2012 Chavet, Menetou-Salon (p.6) Stars of the Loire £177.00 2011 Cherrier, Sancerre (p.5) (Two bottles each of 1 sparkling wine, 2 whites, 1 rosé and 2 2012 Blanchet, Pouilly-Fumé, Les Pernets (p.4) reds) Loire Terroirs £125.00 Code CL413 (Two bottles each of four whites and two reds) NV Gaudron, Vouvray, Méthode Traditionelle, Brut (p.8) 2010 Pierre-Bise, Savennières Roche aux Moines (p.12) Code CL213 2011 Blanchet, Pouilly-Fumé, Les Silice (p.4) 2012 Putille, Anjou Blanc Sec (p.14) 2011 Cherrier, Sancerre Rosé (p.5) 2010 Gaudron, Vouvray, Sec (p.8) 2010 Rochelles, Anjou Villages Brissac, 2011 Cordaillat, Reuilly (p.6) La Croix de Mission (p.11) 2012 Blanchet, Pouilly-Fumé, Les Pernets (p.4) 2009 Rousse, Chinon, Clos de la Roche (p.9) 2011 Petit Bondieu, Bourgueil, Cuvée du Vendôme (p.10) 2011 Rousse, Chinon, Les Galuches (p.9) 3 Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre 2012 Pouilly-Fumé, Les Pernets, 12.5° Bottle £13.50 Case £153.90 Code BLA112 The longest river in France; the Loire flows north for over half Very pale lemon with green tints. Exuberant youthful citrus its length, before turning west at Orléans and heading towards and flint nose. Decently weighted primary fruit; fresh lemon the Atlantic coast. Just before this deviation the river runs over a mineral acid thread. Fresh and bone dry on the finish. between Pouilly and Sancerre, the two most famous names Now-2015 in the whole valley. Both towns are capable of producing thrilling wines from Sauvignon Blanc but it would be a brave, 2011 Pouilly-Fumé, Les Silice, 13° or possibly foolish, taster who would claim to consistently tell Bottle £14.95 Case £170.43 Code BLA211 one from the other. It is true that Pouilly-Fumé has a higher A touch more deeply coloured. Aromas of grapefruit, preserved proportion of clay-flint soils which can impart a characteristic lemons, nettles and struck flints. Elegantly balanced between smokiness to the wines. lemon sherbet, grapefruit, ripe apple, and a subtle restraining As the demand for white Sancerre is so high Pinot Noir makes grip. Builds on the palate. Irony; and very long. Now-2015 up only a small percentage of the vineyard area but the delicate rosé that it produces is entrancing a growing number of fans. Cherrier Père et fils, Domaine de la Rossignole, Verdigny Francis Blanchet, Pouilly-sur-Loire The Cherrier family have been delivering fine Sancerre to us Year in, year out Francis Blanchet and his family create a wine for years now, Pierre took over the 14 hectares of vineyards on that is so true to the appellation, and that really displays the the sweeping slopes at Verdigny in 1962, and has now passed illusive suggestion of gunflint, especially after a year or so in on the baton to his two sons, François and Jean-Marie. The bottle. The estate grows 100% Sauvignon Blanc on 9.5 hectares uncomplicated and vivacious fruit of the classic white here covering Kimeridgian clays, flint and limestone. Along with Les signifies bench-mark Sauvignon Blanc. The Cherrier family’s Pernets we offer the age-worthy Les Silice cuvée, from a small rosé, from 100% Pinot Noir, always has more depth of fruit block on very flinty soils, which Francis compares favourably than many Sancerre rosés. to the excellent 2005 and 2006 vintages. 4 2011 Sancerre, 13.5° Menetou-Salon, Quincy Bottle £12.95 Case £147.63 Code ROS111 Delightfully intense pure citrus aromas, with perhaps a hint of and Reuilly mint. Clean crisp lemon and grapefruit on the palate, backed by stony liquorice. Lasts well. Now-2014 Menetou-Salon, Quincy and Reuilly remain in the shadow of their better known neighbours, Sancerre and Pouilly, yet 2011 Sancerre Rosé, 13° the wines here are sought out by those who seek value and Bottle £13.95 Case £159.03 Code ROS311 authenticity rather than a famous name. The appellation of Pale salmon pink hue. Attractively open aromas of ripe soft red Menetou-Salon, spread out along a range of hills to the north- fruit with a peck of spice. With a pure, ripe strawberry palate, east of Bourges, is contiguous with Sancerre. Among Charolais this is delightfully balanced and attractive. Now-2014 pastures and cereals, the vineyards lie largely on south-facing slopes, all on calcareous, Kimeridgian clay. In 1936 Quincy became only the second Appellation Controlée in France, after the example of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with Reuilly following a year later. From plantings on lighter, sandier soils, and with a slightly warmer climate than at Sancerre, wines from Quincy tend to be creamier and softer, while the well exposed limestone soils of neighbouring Reuilly yield a touch more elegance. Domaine Chavet, Menetou-Salon The bubbly Marie-Lise and husband Phillipe can trace winemaking in the Chavet family back to the 17th century, and now run a 23 hectare domaine. While some regular customers may mourn the passing of the distinctive belle époque label, the wine here is perennially very correct, with an impressive mineral steeliness. Continuing a run of successful vintages, this won a Ligier d’Argent medal at the Salon des Vins de Loire this year. 5 2012 Menetou-Salon, 13° [Screwcap] Domaine de Chevilly, Mereau Bottle £12.75 Case £145.35 Code CHC112 The Lestourgie family continues to make exemplary Quincy Sparklingly bright pale lemon with a green tinge. Open, from nine hectares of vines, and this wine is now established citrus perfume, even a hint of honey. On the palate rich, ripe as a firm favourite among many customers. Minimal use of lemon fruit, elegantly balanced by a flinty minerality. This is chemicals in the vineyard and low temperature fermentation mouthwatering and persistent. Now-2015 maximize fruit flavours and the expression of terroir. 2011 Quincy, 12.5° [Screwcap] Bottle £11.50 Case £131.10 Code CHE111 Almost water white. Bright, inviting scent of ripe citrus. On the palate this shows mouthwatering zest, along with good weight of lemon fruit. The finish is balanced and long. Winner of a Ligier d’Or medal last year. Now-2014 Domaine Cordaillat, Mereau Michel and Chantal Cordaillat established their domaine in 1995 and now farm 7 hectares, of which 65% is Sauvignon Blanc. The Tradition is building a loyal following and is particularly elegant in this vintage. 2011 Reuilly, Tradition, 13° Bottle £11.50 Case £131.10 Code COD111 Pale, crystal bright lemon. Fine and grassy aromas. Ripe citrus fruit backed by subtle green herbal and spicy notes; this has good weight and finishes well. Now-2014 6 Touraine 2010 Touraine, Cuvée Henri, 12.5° Bottle £10.50 Case £119.70 Code AUM510 The fruit of vines aged over 30 years. Rich, honeyed scent. A Domaine de l’Aumonier, Couffy mouthful of vivid tropical fruit; mango and pineapple, with Sophie and Thierry Chardon are a determined young couple just a hint of vanilla. This has attractive weight and volume. who only founded their estate on bought and rented land Now-2014 in 1997. They now farm 47 hectares, over half planted to Sauvignon Blanc. Since the 2010 vintage the Domaine wines are fully organic, and bear Agriculture Biologique certification. The appeal of the wines here lies in the ripe fruitiness of the house style. We offer three whites: Vin de Pays Sauvignon, Touraine Sauvignon and a barrel fermented Chenin Blanc, Cuvée Henri. 2012 Les Chardons, Sauvignon Blanc, Vin de Pays de Loire, 12° Bottle £7.95 Case £90.63 Code AUM312 Pale hue. Bright grapefruit and ripe apple aromas with a grassy note. Well judged weight of zesty citrus flavours. Really on form, with a refreshing finish. Now-2014 2011 Touraine Sauvignon, 12.5° Bottle £9.50 Case £108.30 Code AUM111 Pale lemon.