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Pleated Linen Shirt by Arenda Holladay

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Pleated Linen Shirt by Arenda Holladay PLEATED LINEN SHIRT BY ARENDA HOLLADAY BEYOND THE PATTERN: This simple linen shirt features a wide pleat with mirrored cables at the back. The same cables are reproduced on the sleeves and saddle shoulders. The sleeves use a modified drop shoulder styling. Shibui Linen, the recommended yarn, has a chained ply structure which produces a fabric lighter than air. The weight of the pleat in the back creates an asymmetrical edge, making the back longer than the front. There is a two-inch ease in all sizes. Sizes: XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X) Finished Measurements: Chest: 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44)" Length: 25.5 (25.5, 25.5, 26.5, 26.5, 27.5)" Materials: Shibui LINEN (50g, 264yds/225m, 100% Linen): 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9) skeins #2004 Ivory Size 4 (3.5mm) needles or size to obtain gauge Size 4 (3.5mm) dpn’s or size to obtain gauge Size 2 (2.75mm) circular needle or size to obtain gauge Cable needle Stitch markers Gauge: In St st, 24 sts & 32 rows = 4"/10 cm. To save time, take time to check gauge. Abbreviations: Sl 1 wyib – Slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in back. Sl 1 wyif – Slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in front. continued on page 28 BACK TO TKGA.com 27 CONTENTS Copyright 2015/2016 The Knitting Guild Association. Cast On content is for readers’ personal use and may not be shared or reproduced without permission from the editors. continued from page 27 C2 over 1 left P – Slip 2 sts to cn, hold to front, p1, k2 from cn. C2 over 1 right P – Slip 1 st to cn, hold to back, k2, p1 from cn. C2 over 2 left –Slip 2 sts to cn, hold to front, k2, k2 from cn. C2 over 2 right – Slip 2 sts to cn, hold to back, k2, k2 from cn. Cable A and Cable B – See Charts DESIGNER NOTE: The pleat at the back is created by slipping stitches on the RS of the work at the fold lines. The fold lines on the outside of the pleat are slipped with the yarn in back. The fold lines on the inside of the pleat are slipped with the yarn in the front. These stitches are purled on the WS. Markers are placed on either side of the slipped stitches on the first row after the cast on. To reduce the width of the back, seven paired decreases are worked every 1.5". Back Using larger needles and the long-tail cast on technique, CO 208 (214, 220, 226, 232, 238) sts. Place markers (WS): P63 (66, 69, 72, 75, 78), pm, p1, pm, p19, pm, p1, pm, p40, pm, p1, pm, p19, pm, p1, pm, p63 (66, 69, 72, 75, 78). Est Pat (RS): K52 (55, 58, 61, 64, 67), work Row 1 of Cable A Chart, k1, sl 1 wyib, k19, sl 1 wyif, k40, sl 1 wyif, k19, sl 1 wyib, k1, work Row 1 of Cable B Chart, k52 (55, 58, 61, 64, 67). Work in pat as est until piece meas 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7)". *Dec Row: K2, ssk, work in pat as est to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Work 1.5" in pat as est. Rep from * 6 more times – 194 (200, 206, 212, 218, 224) sts rem. Work in pat as est until piece meas 14" ending on a WS row. Shaping the Armhole BO 7 sts at beg of next two rows – 180 (186, 192, 198, 204, 210) sts rem. Work in pat as est until piece meas 19 (19, 19, 20, 20, 21)", ending on a WS row. DO NOT END ON ROWS 4, 6, or 8. DESIGNER NOTE: The pleat is shaped by placing the stitches for the outside and inside pleats on individual dpn’s, folding the pleats into place, and then knitting them together while removing VIDEO LINKS Video lessons pertaining to this pattern are available online at www.TKGA.com/ CastOn_About. 28 Cast On I Spring 2016 BACK TO Copyright 2015/2016 The Knitting Guild Association. Cast On content is for readers’ personal use and may not be shared or reproduced without permission from the editors. CONTENTS the stitch markers. The cable pattern is DESIGNER NOTE: The sleeves have the same maintained during this process. For that reason, cables as the back in the center. These cables do not complete the pleats on Rows 5, 7 or 9 of form the shoulder saddle. the Cable A/B Charts. Refer to the video links for videos, which guide you through preparing and Sleeves (Make 2) completing the pleats. Using larger needles and the long tail cast on technique, CO 62 (62, 62, 68, 68, 74) sts. Completing the Pleats Right Pleat: K29 (32, 35, 38, 41, 44), place next Row 1 (WS): Purl. Setup Row (RS): K19 (19, 21 sts (right front fold) on dpn (Needle 1), 19, 22, 22, 25) sts, work Row 1 of Cable A place next 19 sts (inside fold) on dpn (Needle Chart, k4, work Row 1 of Cable Chart B, k19 2), place next 21 sts (right back fold) on dpn (19, 19, 22, 22, 25). Work 0.5" in pat as est. (Needle 3). Manipulate the three dpn’s so that Then inc 1 at each side every 4th row 14 times. the sts on Needle 1 are on top of the sts on Inc 1 at each side every 6th row 20 times – 130 Needle 2 and those sts are on top of the sts on (130, 130, 136, 136, 142) sts. Work in pat as est Needle 3. Knit the first st on Needles 1 and until piece meas 21 (21, 21, 22, 22, 23)". 3 together; *knit the next st on each needle together; rep from * until all sts on Needle 2 Shaping Saddle Shoulder are worked. Knit the last sts on Needles 1 and BO 53 sts at each side. Work the cable patterns 3 together. as est until the saddle meas 3.5". BO. Left Pleat: Place next 21 sts (left back fold) on DESIGNER NOTE: The linen yarn is not elastic. It dpn (Needle 3), place next 19 sts (inside fold) is necessary to use needles two sizes smaller to ensure that the neckband is tight enough. on dpn (Needle 2), place next 21 sts (left front fold) on dpn (Needle 1). Manipulate the three Finishing dpn’s so that the sts on Needle 1 are on top of Wet block all pieces. Pin the pleats in place the sts on Needle 2 and those sts are on top of during the blocking process. Seam saddle the sts on Needle 3. Knit the first st on Needles shoulders to the front and back shoulders. 1 and 3 together; *knit the next st on each nee- dle together; rep from * until all sts on Needle Neckband 2 are worked. Knit the last sts on Needles 1 and Using smaller needles, pick up stitches along 3 together; k29 (32, 35, 38, 41, 44). Work in pat the neckline and work in K1P1 ribbing until it as est on rem 100 (106, 112, 118, 124, 130) sts meas 0.5". BO. until piece meas 21 (21, 21, 22, 22, 23)”. Seam the sleeves to the armholes. Seam the Shaping the Neckline sweater and sleeve sides. Weave in yarn tails. K41, BO 18 (24, 30, 36, 42, 48), work to end of row. Working each side separately, BO at each neck edge, 4 sts four times – 25 sts on each side. Work in pat as est until piece meas 23 (23, 23, 24, 24, 25)". BO. Front Using larger needles and the long-tail cast on technique, CO 128 (134, 140, 146, 152, 158) sts. Work in St st until piece meas 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7)". *Dec Row: K2, ssk, work in St st to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Work 1.5" in St st. Rep from * 6 more times – 114 (120, 126, 132, 138, 144) sts rem. Work in St st until piece meas 14" ending on a WS row. Shaping the Armhole BO 7 sts at beg of next two rows – 100 (106, 112, 118, 124, 130) sts rem. Work in St st until piece meas 21 (21, 21, 22, 22, 23)". Shaping the Neckline K41, BO 18 (24, 30, 36, 42, 48), work to end of row. Working each side separately, BO at each neck edge, 4 sts four times – 25 sts on each side. Work in St st until piece meas 23 (23, 23, 24, 24, 25)". BO. BACK TO TKGA.com 29 CONTENTS Copyright 2015/2016 The Knitting Guild Association. Cast On content is for readers’ personal use and may not be shared or reproduced without permission from the editors..
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