PATTERN Take-Two Skirt

nn Budd Knits PATTERN Take-Two Skirt

This skirt is a variation of the Putting of the Pleats skirt (avail- able at http://www.ravelry. com/patterns/library/putting- on-the-pleats) that I designed last year. For this version, I used a fingering weight hand-dyed wool yarn at 7.5 stitches per inch for a firm, but lightweight, fabric. Designed to have 1" to 2" (2.5 to 5 cm) negative ease around the waist and hips, this skirt stretches as necessary for a slimming fit. Four darts shape the hips, then purl stitches are added between 15-stitch “pleats” to provide flare in the lower skirt. Slipped stitches make the “pleats” look more elongated. The bind-off produces slight scallops around the lower edge, which adds a bit of flirty appeal. JOE COCA

FINISHED SIZE About 30¾ (32¾, 34¾, 36¾)" (78 [83, 88.5, 93.5] cm) waist circumference; 34 (36, 38, 40)" (86.5 [91.5, 96.5, 101.5] cm) hip circumference before start of pleats; 49¾ (52¾, 55¾, 58¾)" (126.5 [134, 141.5, 149] cm) hem circumference, relaxed; and 20" (51 cm) length for all sizes (see Notes). Skirt shown measures 32¾" (83 cm) waist circumference.

YARN NEEDLES NOTIONS GAUGE Fingering weight Size U.S. 3 (3.25 mm): 24" Stitch markers (m); tapestry 30 sts and 44 rnds = 4" (#1 Super Fine). (60 cm) circular. needle; 11/2" (3.8 cm) elastic (10 cm) in St st, worked in Shown here: Wollmeise Adjust needle size if to fit around waist plus 1" rnds, after blocking. Pure (100% merino super- necessary to obtain the (2.5 cm) overlap; sharp- wash; 574 yd [525 m]/150 g): correct gauge. point sewing needle and Tollkirsche (burgundy), matching thread. 3 skeins for all sizes.

HIPS Knit 11 rnds—piece measures 1" (2.5 cm) from facing Stitch Guide seamline. Inc Rnd 1: K28 (30, 32, 34), M1R (see Stitch Guide), pm, k1, M1L: With left needle tip, lift the strand between the pm, M1L (see Stitch Guide), k56 (60, 64, 68), M1R, pm, needles from front to back, then knit the lifted strand k1, pm, M1L, k57 (61, 64, 68), M1R, pm, k1, pm, M1L, k57 through its back loop—1 st inc’d. (60, 64, 68), M1R, pm, k1, pm, M1L, k29 (31, 33, 34)— M1R: With left needle tip, lift the strand between the 8 sts inc’d; 4 dart sts marked. needles from back to front, then knit the lifted strand Knit 11 rnds. through its front loop—1 st inc’d. Inc Rnd 2: *Knit to marked dart st, M1R, slip marker (sl m), M1 purlwise: Work as for M1L, but purl the lifted strand k1, sl m, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, knit to end— instead of knitting it—1 st inc’d. 8 sts inc’d. P1f&b: Purl into the front and back of the same stitch— Knit 11 rnds. 1 st inc’d. Rep Inc Rnd 2 once more—255 (270, 285, 300) sts total. Knit 11 rnds, removing dart markers in the first rnd—piece measures about 4¼" (11 cm) from facing seamline. SLIP-STITCH PANEL (worked over 15 sts) Note: Slip stitches purlwise with yarn in back. Rnd 1: K1 through back loop (tbl), k2, [sl 1, k3] 2 times, sl 1, k2, k1tbl. PLEATS Establish patt from Rnd 1 of Slip-Stitch Panel (see Stitch K1tbl, k13, k1tbl. Rnd 2: Guide) as follows: Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for pattern. Inc Rnd 1: *Work Rnd 1 of Slip-Stitch Panel (see Stitch Guide) over 15 sts, M1 purlwise (see Stitch Guide); rep NOTES from *—17 (18, 19, 20) sts inc’d; 272 (288, 304, 320) sts • This skirt is designed to be worn with 1" to 2" (2.5 to total; 17 (18, 19, 20) single purl sts between 15-st pleat 5 cm) negative ease; choose a size 1" to 2" (2.5 to 5 cm) panels. smaller than your actual measurements. • The skirt has 17 (18, 19, 20) fifteen-stitch panels. Purl stitches are inserted between the “pleat" panels; the flare at the lower edge is created by progressively increasing the number of purl stitches. • The stitches on each side of the “pleat” panels are worked through the back loop (tbl) to maintain crisp edges at the transitions between the knit and purl stitches. • The skirt length can be adjusted by working more or fewer inches after the last pleat increase round. You may need more yarn if you plan to make a longer skirt in the larger sizes.

WAISTBAND CO 231 (246, 261, 276) sts. Place marker (pm) and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts. Work even in St st (knit every rnd) for 18 rnds for waistband facing—piece measures 1¾" (4.5 cm) from CO. Turning ridge: Purl 1 rnd—1 purl ridge on RS. Work even in St st for 18 rnds. Purl 1 rnd to mark facing seamline.

Inc Rnd 5: *Work 15 panel sts, p2, M1 purlwise, p2; rep from* —340 (360, 380, 400) sts; 5 purl sts between pleats. 303/4 (323/4, 343/4, 363/4)" 78 (83, 88.5, 93.5) cm Work 27 rnds even as established—piece measures about 14½" (37 cm) from facing seamline. 13/4" 4.5 cm Inc Rnd 6: *Work 15 panel sts, p2, p1f&b, p2; rep from* 41/4" —357 (378, 399, 420) sts; 6 purl sts between pleats. 11 cm Work 27 rnds even as established—piece measures about 17" (43 cm) from facing seamline.

34 (36, 38, 40)" 3 Inc Rnd 7: *Work 15 panel sts, p3, M1 purlwise, p3; rep from* skirt 15 /4" 40 cm —374 (396, 418, 440) sts; 7 purl sts between pleats. 86.5 (91.5, 96.5, 101.5) cm Work even as established until piece measures 20" (51 cm) from facing seamline, or desired total length (see Notes about adjusting length). Loosely BO all sts in patt.

493/4 (523/4, 553/4, 583/4)" 126.5 (134, 141.5, 149) cm FINISHING Cut elastic to waist measurement, plus 1" (2.5 cm) for overlap, and sew into a ring using sharp-point sewing needle Work 21 rnds even as established, purling the sts between and matching thread. the pleats and ending with Rnd 2 of patt—piece measures Place elastic ring against WS of waistband, fold waist- about 6¼" (16 cm) from facing seamline. band along turning ridge to cover elastic, and, with yarn Inc Rnd 2: *Work 15 panel sts, p1f&b (see Stitch Guide); threaded on a tapestry needle, sew CO edge of waistband rep from *—289 (306, 323, 340) sts; 2 purl sts between to inside of skirt along facing seamline. pleats. To prevent elastic from shifting or rolling, thread matching Work 15 rnds even as established—piece measures about sewing thread on sharp-point needle and sew a vertical 7¾" (19.5 cm) from facing seamline. line of stitches as invisibly as possible through both waist- Inc Rnd 3: *Work 15 panel sts, p1, M1 purlwise, p1; rep from* band layers and the elastic at each side “seam." —306 (324, 342, 360) sts; 3 purl sts between pleats. Work 19 rnds even as established—piece measures about Soak skirt for at least 20 minutes in cool water, squeeze 9½" (24 cm) from facing seamline out excess moisture in towels, place on a flat surface, and Inc Rnd 4: *Work 15 panel sts, p2, M1 purlwise p1; rep from* pat to finished measurements. Allow to air-dry completely —323 (342, 361, 380) sts; 4 purl sts between pleats. before moving. Work 27 rnds even as established—piece measures about 12" (30.5 cm) from facing seamline. Weave in loose ends.

Abbreviations

BO bind off m marker(s) RS right side cm centimeter(s) mm millimeter(s) sl slip CO cast on p purl st(s) stitch(es) g gram(s) patt(s) pattern(s) St st stockinette stitch inc(s)(’d) increase(s); increasing; pm place marker tbl through back loop increased rep repeat WS wrong side k knit rnd(s) round(s) yd yard(s)