VOL. XIX. No. 10 JULY, 1944 THREEPENCE

See reland ForS

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BUILDING THE FAMILY CASTLE

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BANK OF IRELAND N ESTABLISHED 1783

FACILITIES FOR TRAVELLERS AT Head Office: COLLEGE GREEN, DUBLIN s BELFAST .. CORK .. DERRY

AND lOO TOWNS THROUGHOUT IRELAND "Where North meets South"

PHONE: DUBLIN 71371 (6 Lines) EVERY DESCRIPTION OF FOREIGN EXCHANGE BUSINESS TRANSACTED Resident Manager T. O'Sullivan

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Service, please

Quick, efficient service throughout all departments i., the goal of the successful hotelier or r~stauratt::l1r to-day, In carrying out ~uch a plan equipment plays a major part, and this e~pecially applies to the

kitchen. Put in the right equipmentl and food· properly cooked and eTved hot-will unfailingly Unrivalled for Cuisine and Service come out. Your guests will say: il Thanks, for good ~ervice." For kitchell equipment to suit your particular needs! consult Superb Cuisine makes the Clarence menus unrivalled and appetisinB. The service too which is p.rompt and courteous. will plea~e th~ H·. EVANS " SONS most exacting patrons. 'Phone 76178 152 Capel Street. Dublin 7he CLARENCE HOTEL Dublin

_O·Keeffe•••••••••••••••••••..: SUBSCRIPTION: Wholesale from the Irish Tourist Association 5/- PER ANNUM and from (Post Free) Eason & Son, Ltd • InlSH COPIES FREE TO ALL • MEMBERS OF THE Retail from all News­ ASSOCIATION AND agents and from the OF ITS ASSOCIATE Irish Tourist Association DEPARTMENT TRAV'El Official Organ 01 the Irish Tourist Association and 01 the Irish Hotels Federation

No. 10 VOL. XIX JULY, 1944 NOTES AND NEWS KILKENNY'S NATIONAL RURAL WEEK. I.T.A. FILMS. ~any li~e For more than twelve years noW Irish scenic films people to combine their holidays with a lIttle planned varIety, serious and sociable by turns made by the LT.A. have been lent for showing to Muintir na Tire rural week, to be held at St. Kieran'~ hundreds of organisations throughout Great Britain College, Kilkenny, August 13th~20th this year and Ireland. Until the outbreak of the war, they gives them an admirable programme and venue. Th~ also were available at some American and Con~ usual features will include film showings related to tinental centres. Even during the war, distribution the objects ofthe gather~ goes on in Great Britain, ing, as well as scenics and in Ireland. Already, including ":: this year, there have Ireland the LT.A. colour film. been showings at over Best Film on 70 centres here, north "Not only is this the best film on DONEGAL CARNIVAL and south. Ireland that the viewers have seen, but WEEK. it is oneof the most beautiful, delightful, FIJI-IRELAND. From July 9th to the and satisfying films that have come to 16th (incl.), Donegal June mail brought, 'their notice. Though it is rather long, Carnival will present a amongst many interest~ it can be thoroughly recommended as great variety of attrac~ ing inquiries, a letter giving an impression not only of Conne­ tions. Dances, Question from the Fiji Islands, tourna~ mara, but of the greater part of Ireland. Times, a boxing asking for details of ment, Services Parades post ~ war accommoda~ It is quite different from the ordi.nary Sports contests, Gaeli~ tion at a lovely Irish run of tourist films. The pictorial high­ League features and a centre. It is a sign of lights are seen, but there is no smear Children's Day, are the times. of the tourist over the film; these things some of the features are just there, and we see them. There that should draw a big SALTHILL'S BIG is no obvious propaganda of any kind, crowd of visitors to this delightful place. FUTURE and for that reason the film is the DEVELOPMENT. more effective. We would recommend A SalthiIl Develop~ it to public bodies who intend to make DOWN TO THE SEA. ment scheme, approved In spite of the delays by the Irish Tourist tourist films." -From a review of the I.T.A.. film, "Colourful o f transport, seaside Board, will be submitted Connemara" in the Monthly Film Bulletin holidays h 0 I d theIr to the Corpora~ of the British Film Institute, London. April, 1944 crowded popularity, and tion. An option has been .. down to the sea In secured by the Board on l_------.J swimming suits" is the a site for a Pavilion, ~otto. In terms of .transport, it isn't so very long ago Baths and other developments. This is on the city SInce the farmers Jaunted away in their own horse side of Palmer's Rock. but does not include the Rock. and car.for their late~summer holidays by the sea. The scheme should come up before the Corporation f~r Now, WIth th~usands of bicycles, a ration of buses at an early date, but work on it may be delayed and even ~ bI~weekly train, there's still hope and the present, owing to various shortages. The cost IS movement In the holiday world. estimated at £50,000. Curiosities around J-reland

THE ILCHESTER OAK THE SLOPING BRIDGE.

At Ramelton, Co. Donegal.

STATUES FROM OLD ATHENRY.

• •

Romantic Co. Limerick Tree. (See story, page 430).

STONE-BIRD

j

Wooden figures from 13th century monastery, now at Strange Rock-feature at Dalkey, Co. Dublin. Parochial House, Tynagh, near Portumna. July, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 4II

~ ...~~ ~~ _~_ ~- ...... ~ ...... -.:. ~ -~...... _- ...... _ -- "":;0." - ..... _ ...... -- .- --...... • Climbing In the , Connemara l' l l By c. W. WALL 0IW0 ...... • ...... ~.. Author of Mountaineering in Ireland

RANSPORT is still available to bring the active .rising as they do from a lake~studded plain and holidaymaker to the Twelve Bens, r that pa~ted with the magic colours of the Western T unique cluster of mountains which dominates sea'board. Connemara. A couple of weeks' .climbing in these hills is the tonic that I offer to .the mentally weary. THE VALLEY OF GLENCOAGHAN. I tried it myself and the onlytdisappointment I felt, Several deep valleys penetrate into the very heart in the long hours up and down the rocks of this of the range. The finest of these is Glencoaghan, glorious country, was the complete absence of opening out to the south on the main Galway~ visitors. Have we. as a nation, lost the use of the road at Canal Bridge, about 3 miles west of Recess. strong limbs that God gave us? Fuel and oil short~ A fairly large scale map. not less than 2 miles to age are of little consequence to that sadly neglected an inch. nailed boots and adequate provisions are all mode of transport-John Shanks's Mare. the impedimenta required to attack the six rocky Clifden (west), Letterfrack and Kylemore (north), peaks shutting in this valley. one of the most are the nearest hotel centres to these hills. but imposinQ scenes in Ireland. If the map cannot be

o ~O

THE LOVELY OUTLINE OF THE BENS. simpler accommodation is available at many places obtai~ed. local advice or, better still, the services of around the base of the range by Lough Inag.h and a gUide should be secured. A minor road extends Recess. There are about eighteen peaks m all, up the glen for a considerable distance beyond the mainly bold quartzite cones, though schists p:netrate track marked on. the survey map. The serrated ridge into the northern portion of the mounta1Os and o! IJerryclare WIll be seen on the right, and the hill~ soften the landscape to a degree. Progressing south~ sl~e may b~ taken before the gullies rise into steep ward beyond , the highe:>t point, quartzite clIff~. Mov1Og along the ridge, the grass is soon left holds sway, and the wild scenes laid bare from these beh10d and, crossing a number of minor eminences, summits reveal a beauty hidden forever .from the the rocky summit will be attained at 2,220 feet. tourist who confines his attention to the fine roads Steep cliffs plunge downwards to Glencoaghan on which encircle the Bens. The . in Wick~ the west and on the east but there are low, is a quartzite peak. Imagine a d~zen .or more n.o serious difficulties descending al~ng the main such mountains, higher and more varIed m form. rl~ge to the saddle at 1.800 feet. Ben Saigdhdiur, huddled together in an irregular group, and .the mlscalled Bencorr on the maps. is a tougher customer result will give some idea of what the Bens look lIke, than , and great slabs of quartzite break- (Continued on page 413). Vale and Glen

(Above) The Scalp Valley, out~ ward from Dublin

(Middle) Vale of W oodenbridE,e, Co. Wicklow

(Below) Glen of Aherlow and Galtee Mountains, Co. Tipperary July, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 413

Climbing in the Twelve Bens-Contd. from page 411. feet) in another half an hour. The western view from this point embraces the Atlantic seaboard from the ing into heavy scree in places and set at awkwardly heights of Achill, past the bold outline of Clare and steep angles must be crossed. Much of the rock is many islands, with Inishturk, In'ishbofin and Inishark falling to pieces and apparent1y~safe foot and hand~ most prominent, down to the long pencilled lines of holds should be tested carefully before receiving the the Aran Islands in Galway Bay. A steep and excit~ body's weight. ing descent over rock leads to the 1,600 feet gap below Benbreen, and a similar steep rise over scree HUNDREDS OF LAKES. runs and slabs, brings the climber to the top of Ben~ The summit, 2,336 feet up and second highest. of breen (2,276 feet) one of the finest of the Bens. In the Bens, is a wild chaos of naked rock commandmg this ascent, some of the steeper rock passages, which magnificent views over the lowlands of Connemara, are not always sound, may be avoided by bearing glittering with hundreds of lakes; while across Glen well to the east, to the ridge which' runs north~west Inagh the rugged summits of Maamturk march to the summit. The view from here is even more along in irregular file to the heights of M.ayo beyond extensive than that from Bengower. and a glorious Killary· Harbour. North and west the clIffs and tors walk follows over a number of rocky outcrops to the of the nearby Bens present a scene of truly Alpme slope above the head of Glencoaghan. The descent splendour. Leaving the real Bencorr to the east, a to the gap is rough, but safe enough, and the way stiff descent follows along the ridge to the 1,600 feet home down Glencoaghan will be familiar. saddle between Ben Saighdiur and Bencollaghduff. Viewed from below, the mountain appears perpen~ BENBAUN, MONARCH OF THE BENS. dicular and fit for the rock~climber only, but the Benbaun (2,395 feet), monarch of the Twelve Bens, may be approached from the head of Glen~ coaghan by a steep grass slope or, alternatively, from the Owenglin Valley, which penetrates to the western base of the mountain. The approach from Glen Inagh is the easiest and most beautiful route. Benbaun is the axis of the range, and, in addition to commanding the prospects already mentioned, reveals the steep cliff~walled gables of Mweelrea and the Sheefry Mountains beyond Killary Fiord, with glimpses of the North Mayo ranges in the back~ ground. There are fine Bens north and west of Ben~ baun, but grass begins to intrude with the invading schists and, relatively speaking, they are not as imposing as the southern quartzite just described. Technical rock~climbing possibilities abound on Ben~ breen, Bengower, Bencollaghduff and Ben Saigdhiuir; they must be sought for on the other peaks, such as THE BENS, FROM ROUNDSTONE. Muckanaght and Bencullagh. steeper portions may be circumvented, though some The holiday activities which I have indicated rough scrambling is inevitable in the descent. The present no problems of power or fuel; sound lungs ascent from the gap to the top of Benc?llaghduff and limbs are the only requisites, and our young (2,290 feet) is easy, though this mountam throws men could scarcely indulge in a more suitable form down cliffs or firm rock for hundreds of feet to the of relaxation to keep them on the tip of their toes north and west. suitable to roped climbers. The for their duties, when they don harness again after ridge now bears westward to the head of .Glen~ the vacation. coaghan. It is steep when leaving the summIt, but the rock is firm and provides plenty of. footholds: A rough walk down the valley will attam an obv~ous boreen after a couple of miles. T~e walk descnbed a~Hilril'l should take five to six hours, allowmg for halts, and for it is well within the compass of a good w~lker. The rock~climber will find a variety of alternatIve ascents . sanitary fittings and descents of varying degrees of difficulty.

BENLETTERY, BENGOWER, BENBREEN. for HOTELS The Bens enclosjng the western side of Glen~ Whether it's just one wa hbasin or equipment for an coaghan are no less attractive. Benlett~ry (1,904 entire hotel, our experience and advice are freely available. feet) will be readily attained from the mam Recess~ Let us quote you. Clifden road above Ballynahinch lake. Steep gr~ss in the earlier stages leads to the rocky crown, whIch J. J. O'HARA & CO. LTD. 29. 30. 31. LINCOLN should be reached in an hour. An easy rock and PLACE. DUBLIN. TELEPHONE 61576 -7 - 8 grass ridge will gain the peak of Bengower (2,184 .'U••III1Ullllllltllllllll.II.IIIIIIUUllllhIIIUllllltIIIIUIU'1111l"IIII'IIIIIII'I'llftl'IIIIII"II'IIII"IIII'IU,UIIIIIIIII"1I1111"l'IIII'IIIIIIIIII"IUIIIIIIIIIIII'I"IIIIIIIII"11I1111I.III.III.ltlll"lhIlIIlIIlUI.IIIIIlIItUU. DUN LAOGHAIRE-Within 100 yards of the Mail Boat Pier HADDINGTON, HOUSE HOTEL :.::'...... BRASSERIE

• HOT MEALS served in the • Mail Boat Passengers specially BRASSERIE from 7.30 a.m. to catered for. STAY OVERNIGHT 12 midnight AT THE HADDINGTON HOTEL

FULLY LICENSED Phone: 815161 Resident Proprietress: Miss FRANCES LOWRY . . :.IIIIIII'llIllllIlfll.IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII.IIIIIII.11111111Illftllllllllllllllllllll.II.IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII.I"I'11111111.1111..11111111.1111111111111 ..1.1111 •• 111 ....11.111111111 •• 1111,1111,.1,11111111,1111111.1111.1111.1111.111111111111.11It.:-

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~"I"'I"I'I""'I""""""""'I'''''''''''I''''II'I'I''.'••11 '-"••••'.1••••••••••1 ..1••••1." •••111.' 1:::::::"'''M'i'~';''MARTI'N~'S'''GiJ'EST'''H'(iUSE'''' HOTEL PELLETIER 100 yards from St. Stephen's Green. Bus. Nos. 11 and 13 21-22 HARCOURT STREET, DUBLIN ., VERY CENTRAL POSITION. GARAGE. HOT AND COLD ., 12 UPPER PEMBROKE STREET, DUBLIN WATER IN ROOMS. ELECTRIC FIRES. TERMS MODERATE. Phone 515201. Appl. to the Proprietress

,:.IlIlIIl'IIII1I11I1I1II1t1II1IUllIlllflllltlltllllllllllllltllllllllllllllllllllIHIOII1111'""'''"11111111111'" HOTEL LENEHAN BEST OF (MISS LENEHAN, Proprietress) Telephone No. 52043 FOOD 24-25 HARCOURT STREET DUBLIN Noted for Moderate Ter",s and Good Catering. AND Centrally sitnated; convenient to all places of interest. ~[eal, served to Non·Residents. Bus service to and [ram door to all COMFORT stations and places of interest. HOT AND COLD WATER IN BEDROOMS. GARAGE

Co. ROYAL HOTEL, HOWTH DUBLIN Close to Bus and Rail. Howth Head Bathing Places. Private Tennis Courts. Modern Ballroom. Fully Lice'.'sed. Parties catered for. PIER HOTEL Phone 45. Apply: MRS. GIBNEY. ON DUBLIN BAY ·.11111111111"..1111.11111 .. 1..1111111111111111111111111111111111 ...... "111111111111111111IIIIIIItlIIII 11 11111.1111 •• • 1111'1'11'1111111'11111.1111111111'1,11111.11111'1111111'1111111111111"1'11111''''1111111111111111'11'11'11'1111111'" DUN LAOGHAIRE BRANDONDALE GUEST HOUSE Opening June 12th GRAIG-NA-MANAGH Fully Licensed Tel. 818041 Beautifully situated over River Barrow. Ft'ee Fishing, Tennis and • Boating. Direct Bus from Dublin. Terms on Application "'"111111111 111111111 III1UI""IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII'"I"'"1I1I1I1I11I11I 11111 111111 .. 0 111111111111111111''',

'1111'1'"1'1111111'1111'1111111111111111'1111111'11111'1111 •• II.I.I..IIIIIIII.IIIIIIIItII.,IIIIIIIIIIIII\.IIIIIIIII," BRIGHT AND METROPOLE HOTEL CHEERFUL For VALUE AND COMFORT ISURROUNDINGS Telephone 26 KILKENNY July, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 415

[EI"'.III"'III"""'I"'I""'III""""""""""'1'1111"'111111111'1111111111"1111'11"'1111111111"111111"111''''''1'''.1''''11111''11111111111'1111'1111111","111"1"1'1'11"111111111"""11111"'111'1111111111111111111"11"118 i July is Regatta Month i

&""'.."' "' .., "' ..""" "" ""." ",, .. 1 By SKIPPER j.."" """ "" """ "" """ J

July 14. Coleraine Regatta. Senior Eillhts Championship FIXTURES of Ireland (I.A.R.U. Cup). July 1. Head-of.the-River Race. Belfast. July 20. limerick Regatta. July 6. Waterford Regatta. July 22. Cork City Regatta. July 7-8. Duhlin Metropolitan Regatta at IsJandbridge. August 7 (Bank Holiday). Carrick-on·Shannon Regatta.

HREE cups, the Metropolitan at Dubli~, th~ Of all the regatta settings in Ireland, that of Cork, Leander at Cork and the Senior Eights on the Marina, at a point where the River Lee T Championship at 'Coleraine, are outstanding narrows to bring the crews into close proximity and among July regatta events. provides natural grandstands on either side, is The present Metropolitan trophy is not the perhaps the loveliest with its arboreal background wood~ original cup, but it dates back to 1870 and is there~ on the one hand and, on the other, the rising fore the oldest offerE~d for Rowing in this country. lands of Montenotte. It is no unusual thing to see The first cup rowed for in 1869 was won outright from 6 to 9 crews constituting, as they approach the by Cork Harbour Rowing finishing line, a colourful Club, and, when that club " close-up" and straining went out of existence some every ounce to reduce seven years ago, was further the narrow margins purchased by awe II ~ separating them, amidst known Cork citizen, who the cheers of the crowds placed it on public view on either bank of the river. at the Palace Theatre, "INTERNATIONAL" CORK. Cork, where it may be seen at any time. It is Some 42 years ago, interesting to note that Cork Regatta was the two members of the crew • scene of the famous Inter­ that won this cup lived to national race, in the final reach the age of 90. When of which Leander Club of Ruder~ the Metropolitan Cup for LIMERICK'S BROAD WATERWAY. London and Berlin Senior Fours was first . . verein met. In apprecia~ eight~oared hon of the kmdness and hospitality shown them instituted, oats were unknown in i~ Ireland. Leander presented the Cork Regatta with what known as the Leander Cup for Senior Eights. First The Senior Eights' Championship, to be rowed at a~d offered in 1904, this magnificent trophy is in the Coleraine on July 14th, was established in 1912, f~rm. of a D~tc], galleon in silver. In the deed of the coming contest is the s cond to be held m gift IS .embodled the guarantee that, in the event of Northern Ireland since the outbreak of the war; the a foreign club entering a crew for the cup the first being at Portadown in 1940. Lea~der Club will send over a crew to defend it. So far, m the 40 years that have elapsed since the trophy LIMERICK'S SPLENDID COURSE. was first offered for competition, the London club has In the week following, Coleraine, Limerick and not been called upon to live up to its promise; but, Cork will be the venues on July 20th and 22nd for some 'year~ past, the Cork Regatta Committee respectively. The long wide stretch of Shannon has had m mInd the holding of an International water at Limerick lends itself extremely well to boat~ Re~atta, .and it i~ hoped that, when peace comes racing, and the city's location facilitates the appear­ agam, thiS plan will come to fruition. ance of crews from Dublin and Galway en route to Cork. It is a tradition among Cork clubs to give a On August 7th (Bank Holiday) the season will full measure of support to the Li~;ric~ ~?'ture and, come to an end at Carrick-on-Shannon which as the converse also obtains, the tWlD Southern regatta fixtu~e is, next to that of Dublin U~iversity, regattas very frequently have entry lists of the the oldest lD Ireland. Although situated off the record kind. Spectacular racing is a feature of beaten tr~ck, this fixture has always been very either fixture when in certain events, the number of p~pular With all clubs, and Bank Holiday week~end crews run from 8' to 10. For the layman, this is will l?ro?ably see Carrick the Mecca for cycling perhaps the most attractive aspect of racing. vacatlODlsts as well as cycling oarsmen. r ·· · · · ~ ""'····,·····~·~;d~~:~···~ii~~~·~'·····'····'l::::::. WHEN IN THE WEST First.dass Lslr.e and Ses Fishing. Shooting Besutilul Bathing Beach.s. Mountain, River. Lalr.e, Sea STAY AT Phone: CARNA 3. J. W. MONGAN. Proprietor ••••• , •••••••••••••••••, ••••, •••••• I ••,UU••••••••••••••'.,••• , •••••, •••••' 11••;;

Connacht's Leading .tlll.IUIIIIIIU"IIIIII.II.I.IUI.IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII1'1111'11'1111111'1111'1111'11'1"1'111111111111'1'11'1110. Hotel ·~:!eR~.~~:t~ ~~~~I~i~ I:::::. H. and C. All Bedrooms. Excellent Catering. Conveniently Situated Sea 200 Yards. Near Garage. UNDER PERSONAL SUPERVISION Phone: GALWAY 174. Apply: PROPRIETRESS EGLINTO·N ".11111'11.1111.11.1.1111111.1111.1111.1111.1111'11'1111.11.IBI.I'IIIII.IIII....IIII.I'IUIUI.I.II".. I ..II..IIIIIII'; ~:::::::.~.....~~~; ... ~~.~.~; ... ~~;.~.~ ..:...;~;.;~; .. ;~;.~~: .. ;.;;;~ .... (Ewine;'s)' A.A.• R.I.A.C. A Home away from Home Ideally situated beside the magnificent Golf Course and witb a SQuth· :. west aspect, it commands a glorious view of superb scenic beauty (3 mins. walk to beach). The Hotel is fully licensed and its cuisine is at all times carefully chosen under personal superdsion of Proprietress HOTEL aarae;e Free. Ae;a Cooker. Reasonable Tariff. E Telephone: ROISES POINT 4. Telegrama: "EWING. ROSSES POINT." ~ ••,I.'•••II •• I,II.I.'•• I.'I.II'.,II",'III.II.II,I.II.1111.1'11111.1,1,,1"'.11••11 ••1.1'.,.1••1,.'11•• 1.1,.1'111111:':. Salthill Galway ~ ..·EDWI·N.....M·I·TC·H·EL·L...~~·~·~;·~ .. ·GI·RLS~ ...B·A·N·D.... ,:::::::::.' The most modern and popular Band in Ireland Featuring HARMONY VOCAL NUMBERS and HAWAIIAN tLECTRIC GUITAR Telephone No.-SALTHII.L 25 Open for Summ.r EXTENSIVE L1BRARV OWN AMPLIFICATION Engagemenls- All communication. 10 SECRETARY Holel or Ballroom 117 ROYSE TERRACE. PHIBSBOROUGH. DUBLIN

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Surrounded by Parks Restful Atmosphere GRAND HOTEL Golfing - Fishing • Proprietress: Miss MARY M. KENNY FULLY On Rail and ••••11.'11111'.11, 11 ••••11111 111.1111.,••••11•••11.11•••••••1111.11••••••••11 , •••In: LICENSED WICKLOW Bus Routes

A.A., R.I.A.C MOST CENTRAL THE HOTEL FOR TOURING GLEBE I reo. 'WICKLOW LAKES OF KILLARNEY H;;i1and ~Cold PHONE 25 OF COURSE IT'S GOOD Running Wate.r in all Rooms

111111111111111111111111111""11111111'"111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111IIIIIltllllllllll..I.IIII':': Own Garden Produce. THE Private Tennis INTERNATIONAL HOTEL Courts. Putting Green. Golfing, A.A. Kenmare Place, KILLARNEY R.I.A.C. Boating, Fishing Noted for C·OOD FOOD AND COMFORT and Bathing Convenient to Railway Station. Free Garage adjacent Hot and Cold Running Water in Bedrooms HOTEL VISITORS ENTITLED TO REDUCED GREEN FEES AT GOLF Illustrated Brochure sent on request LINKS. Local Sightseeing Trips Arranged. Free Fishing on Lakes Telephone No. 37. J. A. CLANCY, Manager TERMS MODERATE. Apply MANAGERESS. Phone 16

1111'''11111'11'11111'11111'1111111.,''1111111'1''1111''"1'11'1111111111I1.11I1.11I1111111I1.IIII'I"'..I.lltI.ll. 111.11.111111111111.11.1111111111110111.111111111111.11.1,111111111I1I1'II'IIIIIII'I~II'lfllllllll'IIII'I'IIItI'III~ July, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 417 HOTELS and GUESTS

CORK'S UNUSUAL READING ROOM. scratched his head and said weakly: .. Naw. naw, naw! There hain't no blinkin' woids!" Nearly everybody knows that midway down Cork's splendid Patrick Street stands the Victoria "I can understand Joey," said the Colonel to his Hotel, under the kindly and capable management of friend. ....For the beauty of Killarney I, too. have Miss Tobin. Yet, I wonder, how many know of the no words. Reading Room there of the Cork Chamber of Com~ * * * * merce-who are the landlords-and by whose GEORGE BECAME A CHE~ courtesy the room is available to residents of the hotel. Measuring 75ft. x 45ft. x 22ft.• its elabo~ately~ "0." writes: - U A weIl.-known Commercial decorated ceiling and century-old furniture gIve an Traveller. Mr. Gerald Ennis, of the Greenmount air of dignity and calm, even as you look out through Oil Co., has a young son named • George,' who its seven windows on the city's busiest thoroughfare. unusually did not want to be an engine driver, a And what diverse reading matter there is! The member of the Fire Brigade. a chaffeur or a Dublin bookcases, which line the walls. hold directories of metropolitan policeman; but pestered his father to all kinds; tables in the centre carry Irish Dailies make .him a • chef.' In the early stages, the father and many English ones; side~tables hold their files took. lIttle notice of. George, but later, when George which go back for many years. while there is an persIsted. Mr. Ennts approached a hotel proprietor amazing supply of magazines and trade journals friend of his in the country and asked him to take from U.S.A. Canada Australia, New Zealand, and George into his kitchen and give him a sickener of even Japan. 'I should~'t be surprised if the" Vic's .. hotel work. The hotelier agreed and George Reading Room is unique among our Irish Hotels. arrived; peeled potatoes for a week; washed dishes for two weeks; stoked the range for two weeks, and ** ** wondered how far he was from the right to wear { /'(' the chef's white suit and white hat, but all the time I ~ .. NO WORDS" FOR KILLARNEY. kept his eyes and ears open to his kitchen chef's _I am indebted to Mr. J. J. Hallahan, manager of ~ork. The fat~er arrived on his uSual six~weekly the Killarney Mineral Water Factory and vice~ Journey, expectIng to find his son had abandoned chairman of the Killarney Tourist Association, for his ambition, and was surprised to find that George the follOWing story:-A retired and widely~travdled was a sticker and detertniIU4 to go through with his Indian Army Colonel was being entertai~ed in scheme. George persisted, and he is to~day Manager Killarney, and had done the usual trips. t'or all of one of the most up~to-date restaurants in the that, the Colonel hadn't shown the slightest West of Ireland aI!d earning a splendid salary. In enthusiasm for the scenery, and his host felt not a his early appren 4 iceship he had another ambition little hurt. On their last evening together the host, and that was to rive a donkey and cart in his spar~ unable to stand it any longer, said: .. Well, Colonel, time-in his two hours off every day and half a day you've seen a good bit of the world. What do you every week. He has now gone above that and drives think of our scenery-¥ou don't seem to like it." his pony and trap." " Like it?" answered the Colonel. .. Why I think ..':'.=':5:;;;;=====::=;;:::7.7.:f.T.T.7.T.f;~;:S:;;~=::'7.;:S;===== it is-wait: I'll tell you a story Joey was a cost .' "" n, .. in BilIingsgate. He had a most lurid tongue; ''1 never at a loss for a word. Well. one slushy. I er FLATS (1943) LTD morning Joey was wheeling his barrow of vegetab-.'l%" '. into the market when the barrow capsized and the ET, DUBLIN. Telephone 628881 vegetables scattered all over the place. Then the NI'shI'ng to see Duhi'In and'Its surrounds other costers gathered round, nudged one another 'raXIs.. PaT ks. Churches and Cinemas, and and grinned. Now, indeed, would they hear from with hotel luxuries Joey such a spate of language as they might never Jble, with or without Private Bathroom hear again. And Joey looked like giving of his best. anger~shrivelled ATER THROUGHOUT With face and thumbs hooked to 'EEKLY TERMS. 4 Gns. his belt, he stood hunched. He ran a cold eye over 'EEKLY TERMS, n Gns. the debriS, then round at his audience. He opened AKFAST, 9/6 his mouth cleared his throat, and for a breathless second th~y waited. Then, snatching off his cap, he ...".."'"...""'.."."""""'."."".....""""""."""."",,,,"""""""""....""".Pa:v,,,..,,...l ~~~ a;iti~s, too, ~a,,~ t~~ir Summ~r Visitors

(Top Left) (Top Right) Patrick Street, Bridge O'Connell St.. Sligo. and Hill. Cork.

(Bottom Right) (Bottom ft) O'Connell Street. High St.. Lime~ick.

(Middle) O'Connell Bridge and Street, Dublin.

'T INTERNATioNAL Ho.. 1L A.A. Kenmare Place, KILLARNEY R.I.A.C. Noted for GOOD FOOD AND COMFORT

Convenient to Railway Station. Free Garage Hot and Cold Running Water in Bedrooms HOTEL VISITORS ENTITLED TO REDUCED GREEN FEES AT GOLF LINKS. Local Sightseeing Trips Arranged. Free Fishing on Lakes TERMS MODERATE. Apply MANAGERESS. Phone 16

: •••III.III.'II•• II.II'.IIIIIIIIII.IIIII."..lfllflllllt'U.,1.. '1 '"1 11 111111111.11111,."'.1111 •• July, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 419 Dublin's Old Curiosity Shops By JOHN J. DUNNE

OSTLY you will find them tucked away in a clock that had tinkled in a drawing~room of the dark corners in the oldest part of the town 'eigh~ies , .. a hundred years, a hundred places.... M around Christ Church Cathedral, that area Perhaps ,thiS ebony music~box, lying in a corner that is the nucleus from which Dublin grew, where beside a print of the College Green of another day, the Danes first raised up their Town of the Ford of could tell of an old, forgotten romance. Perhaps it 'the Hurdles. Or along the quays, you will catch a could speak of a million past joys and sorrows, for frequent glimpse of one of these shops, The name it was surely witness to many lost stories, no longer over the door has long since worn away; the paiz:t known. , .. is now only a blistered, peeling crust; the glass,m the. window is often cracked, and always heavy With THE GAY LITTLE FAN. the undisturbed dust of piling time, Dull, perhaps, There is romance here, in every nook and corner these old curiosity shops are at first glance, but, pause 6f this dusty window. It is not hard to imagine this awhile, Traveller, peer'through the clouded wmdow, gay little fan being waved in coquetry by some 18th and you will find the life and laughter, the sorrow century beauty, gracing the drawing~rooms of and tragedy of twice a hundred years, ... Mountjoy Square or Merrion Square. What secrets Chaos it seems at first, this mad, unsorted mass of were whispered in its presence; what intrigues; odds and ends, this jumbled jack~pot of everything what soft words, by lips long silenced? This paint­ from a needle to an anchor. No sense of order was ing, too, of a balustraded, old-world garden, must ever attempted here, none ever encouraged. Perhaps have its memories, for it gazed down for many years the owner of the shop has never had time to catalogue at the Dublin home-life of another day. What his curiosities; or, perhaps, being an antique~deal7r, drama did it see, in crinoline and cravat, and the he is possessed of that sense of beauty that tells hIm silks and satins of yesterday? his wares are at their best like this; or, perhaps, being a 'businessman, he knows that he is not There i1! dead life and laughter here, in these expected to ape the display of a department store. hundred and one ghosts....

THE EXPERT DEALER. Mention your want to him, and if he has what you need, his long, thin fingers will grope down through the dust and cobwebs of the ages, unerringly, and the article will be unearthed. He knows his stock. To you and me it is a crazy jig~saw of unbeliev~ble scraps and pieces. Snuff~boxes, vases, sportmg~ prints, books, knives, forks, spoons, cruet~sets, engravings, notepaper~boxes, ash-trays, cigarette~ cases, clocks, pens, china dogs, book~ends, fans, coins, brooches, watches ... where have they come from, these flotsam and jetsam from widely~flung years? A coin from the early Georges, a fan fr~m Victoria's time, a brooch from 18th century Dublm, AT SEAPOINT, DUBLIN.

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DUBLIN SERVICE FLATS (1943), LTD. 28-30 UPPER PEMBROKE STREET. DUBLIN. Telephone 628881 Offer an unequalled service to visitors wishing to see Dublin and its surrounds They are convenient to Trains. Trams. Ta~s, Parks, Churches and Cinemas, and give home comforts With hotel luxuries BED_SITTING ROOM5--Single or Double, witb or witbout Private Batbroom HOT AND COLD WATER THROUGHOUT SINGLE INCLUSIVE WEEKLY TERMS, 4 Gns. DOUBLE INCLUSIVE WEEKLY TERMS, 7~ Gns. BED & BREAKFAST. 9/6 - - ~""'''''''''''''''''''.'''H'''''IIIII'''U''III'''''I'fI'''''''I' .,1,.,1".11,"."",'1,',.",.,"' •• ".'.11."'....,' ....."It,'I"""""'I'III""'I1""'I"I."I"II""II'I'I''.IItI'....,.I.I'." •• Ull ...'.'.,.....,IIPa:vnet..·.'; Atc~ Rock

COUNTI (4) COl

(Top) Moville

(Middle) Pass of Glenesh (Gradient 1 in 7)

(Below) In Mulroy Bay Rosapenna

ALBUM onegal

(Top) Port na BlaBh

(Middle) Tranarossan Bay

(Below) Hills of Donegal Errigal last on right E'" "" .fI.II.'I""'11""Ill...lit 11111 It"'1'1'11"'1111 " UI till"11'"'111111111111111 "1III II1 lit11111ltlll"llI1,•• 111110 ..' 111111111,. 'Ill"1111'111111111'1' -111""'111'111"111"11,1""1111111'''' U 1t"I'lilt.11.It11'11'111111111" § I When visiting Ireland COME RACING I and see THE WORLD'S FINEST BLOODSTOCK in Competition On ALL RACECOURSES you will find a complete and efficient TOTALISATOR SERVICE OPERATED BY THE BOARD OF CONTROL FOR MECHANICAL BETTING IN IRELAND, D'OLlER HOUSE, D'OLlER ST., DUBLIN g

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Hotel Metropole . l VICTORIA HOTEL CORK Most Centrally Situated The Largest and Finest Hotel in the City ELECTRIC ELEVATOR 100 Bedrooms. each Excellent Cuisine under H. and C. Water in all fitted with Beautyrest personal supervision Bedrooms Beds. Hot and Cold of accomplished Chef. Running Water and Evening Dinner a • Individual Bed Lamps speciality.

fOUR MINUTES' WALK fROM STATION PATRICK STREET, CORK Hotel Porter attends all trains snd buses lor luggage

Telegrams: "VICTORIA," CORK.~ Phone 293 UNLICENSED Manager: D. VANCE

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'i."IIII •• IIIIIIII •• IIIIIIIIIIIII•••• ,II.1111111 •• 'III.11.1.'1111,•••••••111,.,1.1••••••,1,.1,.,11111,••••••• IIII""'~ '111111'1111111'1'11'111'''111'1111'111111111111'1111'11111111111111111111111111111111111111111'1111'111111111111'1 Try JOHN DALY " CO., LTD. SUMMER-Enjoy it! Wine and Spirit Merchants AT THE For the best of everything that should be stocked by the first-class Hotelier. You will not be disappointed KYRL'S QUAY, CORK .,1"1'11'111111111.11.1.11•••••• 1••1.'.,1..' ••1.11,1.'.,1••1.11111.'.111111"1"1••••'.11.1.1'.1'11.1 •• ' ••••1'1111'" Golf Links Hotel JIIIIIIIIIIIIIII'I'III.III'II.IIII.II.IIII.IIII.II.I.1111IIIIII.IIIIIIIIIIIIIIHIIII'IIII'I.IIIII.II.I.II.IIII.IIIII .. Make sure of your GLENGARRIFF "IRISH TRAVEL" TELEPHONE 9 --- FOR RESERVATIONS 5/- per year. by post. by becoming a Subscriber

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July, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 423 I On Gweebara Bay ·=====By F. P. CAREY=====-"

NE does not really know Ireland until O:le knows Donegal; and who may know O Donegal until he has seen Gweebara? Years ago, in Liverpool, a Tir-Conaill man put it that way to me. Perhaps, I only smiled an indulgent smile. I had often talked much in the same stram myself, upon occasion, about my native Dublin. We are all apt to rise to the heights of imagination (and even to plumb the depths of fable), when, particularly under exiled skies, we talk of our own Irish hqme. When Tir~Conaill speaks of Gweebara, the STATION ISLAND. reference is primarily to a lovely and quite extensive bay breaking into the Atlantic upon the furthermost side of the Bluestack Mountains. There is, of LOUGH DERG PILGRIMAGE course, a place actually called Gweebara, too. A The holy island, or Station Island as it is. named, tiny, smiling village it is, like one of those Rural is just a narrow strip of rock less than a .mile ffr°Sm Ireland picture postcards come to life, but suggestive the shore. The modern buildings consist 0 t. of no other purpose of existence than that of giving Patrick's and St. Mary's Chapels, a Bell~tower~ a the neighbourhood a name. Presbytery, two large Hospices with accommodatIOn for pilgrims and some boarding~houses where NARIN, PORTNOO AND INISKEEL. penitents may also stay. St. Patr.ick's Ch.u.rch llas been raised to the dignity of a MInor BasIlica. Beneath shelter of the headlands, Narin and The time prescribed for the Pilgrimage is from Portnoo, are really the showplaces of the bay. the 1st June to the 15th August each y~~r. T~e Nature has signally favoured the environment of penitential devotions commence with a VISit to :::it. each of these villages, and seekers of health dnd Patrick's Church, around which several. circ~its are holiday, in one grasp, are coming to the bayside in made visits being paid to the various pemtentIal bed annually increasing numbers; ultimCitely, it may be . of ea~th and stone which are named in honour SOf concluded, to establish both places among the. St. Brigid, St. Brendan, St. Catherine, an? th~ popular Irish resorts. Columba. One all-night vigil has to be kept In. d Meanwhile, the tourist interest that touches Gwee­ church. .. Stations" are performed each day, a bara is, so to speak, being glorified. Holiday­ the usual religious devotions are also attended: 1n makers at Narin and Portnoo are finding Iniskeel, performin'g these exercises the pilgrims are. bare~ and re-discovering its holy traditions. On Gweebara footed, and a rigorous fast must at the same time be Bay you cannot avoid this enchanted isle. It lies observed. Only one meal is allo,:,!ed each day, con~ considerably less than a mile off the mainland, and, sisting of black tea and dry bread; the only otheJ at low tide, peorle are frequently to be seen gaining refreshment is the water of the l~,ke,. b~!led an its sides on foot across the sands. sweetened, which the pilgrims call WIne. PILGRIMS TO THE ISLAND. A St. Conail, said to have flourished there during the tWilight years of our Christianity, is believed to have built the oratory and cell at which to the present day barefooted pilgrims make the ancient devotional station. Inte'rest in these landmarks culminates in a mammoth boulder, slightly hollowed, which IS reverently treasured as the Bed of St. Conail. The grave of the saint, is, likewise, upon Iniskeel, occupied also, it is said by his contemporary and successor, St. Dhollas. who was slain by pirate invaders of the holy isle. Thus it is, that places which seem to spell insignificance upon the map loom largest and charm greatest in the long run. .

THE BASILICA. BY THE SUMMER SEA

SILVER STRAND, WICKLOW.

BALLYBUNION.

DIAMOND ROCKS AND INTRINSIC MOUNTAIN AND SEA, ACHILL. BAY, KILKEE. July. 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 425 LOUTH AND MEATH ANNAGASSON (Pop. 116) approx. 14 miles CARLINGFORD (Pop. 530) is a small town on the north~east of Drogheda. 8 miles south of south shore of Carlingford Lough, about 15 Dundalk, and 5 miles east of Dunleer. The miles north of Dundalk, 12 miles south~east of Beach, approx. 1-! miles long. is pe{tect.ly Newry, and 3t miles west of Greenore. The safe for bathing. Salterstown.. so~e 4" mile Beach, running from near Greenore past Car­ to the south, is a noted sWlmmmg place. lingford towards Omeath. is about 4 miles long, and is less subject to tides. The nearest Railway and is quite safe for swimmrng. A motor boat Station is Castlebellingham, 2i miles away. is available for pleasure trips. Dances are held There is also one at Dunleer, 5 miles away, but at the Parochial Hall. The 'Bus route passes there is no 'Bus service. Church Services on through the village. Church Services on Sunday Sunday are as follows: _Dillonstown, RC., are as follows: RC. Church, Carlingford, 8.30 8.30 and 11 a.m.; Dysart, RC., 9 a.m.; Togher, and 11 a.m.; Church of Ireland. 11 a.m.; 10 a.m. (RC.); Church of Ireland, Dunany.... Presbyterian Church, 11.30 a.m. and 3 p.m. The Post Offke is in the Main Road, and trans~ The Post Office is in N ewry Street, and trans­ acts all business. acts all business. Camping Sites :-The North Commons (Landowner, Mr. 1. Rogan); Green~ BALTRAY (Pop. 140) is about 4 miles to ore Road (Mr. E. Armstrong, Nootka Lodge); the east of Drogheda. It is bounde? on numerous places owned by Mr. H. McKevitt. the east by the strand, while to the south IS the North Commons; sites east of the harbour north bank of the Boyne. There is ~ppr?x. owned by Mr. J. Larkin, Newry St.. and by 3 miles of pure sand, and bathtng and SWlmmmg Mr. Hugh O'Hare, The Square. are excellent. Mixed bathinfl is allowed. The nearest RailwafJ. Station is Drogheda. 4 miles CLOGHER (Pop. 566) is a fishing village about away, but a Bus route passes through the 8 miles north~east of Drogheda. Renowned for village. Church Services on Sunday are as its bracing air. There are two beaches-one follows: _ Termonfeckin. RC.. 9 and 11 a.m. north and the other south of the village. The (O.T.); Church of Ireland, Termonfeckin, south beach is about It miles long, while the 11.30 a.m. (N.T.); Church of Ireland, Beaulieu, nort~Seach is about 2 miles long. Both strands 10 a.m. (N.T.). The Post Office in the village ideal for bathing and swimming, but the only transacts postal business only. There is a diving facilitie~ are at the harbour (Port Oriel) Camping Site on the Golf Course. on the nort~ sld~ of th~ Head; ~here being no beach at thIS pomt. MIXed bathlllg is allowed. - BLACKROCK (Pop. 600), on the coast of Dun~alk Rowing boats are available for pleasure trips. Bay, about 3 miles south~east of Dundalk, IS a Dances are held at the Parochial Hall. Church long straggling village. The older portion o~ the Services on Sunday are as follows: -RC. village is better situated as regards vIews Church. Clogherhead. 9.30 and 10.30 a.m. and strand facilities. The Beach is very (ST.); RC. Church, Walshestown, 10.30 a.m. flat and sandy and about 2 miles in le~gth, The Post Office in Main Street transacts all with a small amount of shingle at the mner business. Camping sites available on land of edge. At low water there is a tremendous ar~a Mr. Marke, Glaspistol. on the Burrows, and of sand-similar to Merrion Strand, DublIn. on the Head on land of Mrs. Gogarty. The water is perfectly safe and very shallow even at high tide. There is public right of way to the beach. There are no diving or swimming GORMANSTOWN (Pop. 60, approx.) is 25 miles facilities-the water being too shallow, but fro~ Dublin, 7t .miles from Drogheda. and bathing may be indulged in. Ther~ are seve.ral 3 miles from Balbnggan. It lies less than t mile bathing boxes along the strand. MIxed ba~hmg fro~ the main Dublin-Belfast road, and about is allowed. Lavatories and seats are provIded. -! mIle from Gormanstown Station. The 3-1 miles Cars are parked along the road without charge. of sandy beach varies in width according to There are sea water baths owned by Mr. P. place. and tide, from 10 to over 300 yards. and Callan. Sailing or rowing boats are available IS skIrted by a perfectly safe sea-shelf entirely for pleasure trips. There are two Dance Ha~ls: free from treacherous currents. The 5~fathom The Pavilion and the AO.H. Hall. There IS a line averages 1i miles from the shore. There IS Skating Rink. Church Services on S~nday are public right~of~way to beach in several places; never more than 200 yards interval the main as follows: -Blessed Oliver Plunkett s (RC.). Gorm~lDstown 7, 9 and 10 a.m.; Presbyterian Church Hall, one ?eing at Station. ' Open sea 3 p.m. only in summer; RC. Church, Haggards~ bathmg may be enjoyed in perfect safety along town. 9 and 11 a.m.; RC. Church, Kilkerley, 9 the strand from Gormanstown to Laytown. and 11 a.m. The Post Office is in Main Street, There are no diving facilities, water being and transacts all business. too shallow. Mixed bathing is allowed. (Continued on page 427). LT.A. Photo Competition, 1944 I CLAREMONT HOTEL ~~= £20 IN CASH PRIZES ~~~- HOWTH Fourteen Cash· Prizes are offered by the IRISH 'Phone: Howth 12. 'Grams: C1aremont, Howth. TOURIST ASSOCIATION for the best entries in a com~ .- petition for photographs taken during your holidays and having some relation to sightseeing, recreation or other aspect of holidays. Competitors will be divided into three sections as follows: SECTION I-Confined to Members and Associate Members of the LT.A., Members of Holiday Saving Clubs, Cycling Clubs, and An Oige. Prizes: 1st £3, 2nd £2, 3rd £1; 3 Consolation Prizes of 10/- each. SECTION II-Confined to Members of Photographic Clubs. or Societies. Prizes: 1st £3, 2nd £2, 3rd £1. SECTION Ill-Open to General Public. Prizes: 1st £3, 2nd £2, 3rd £1; 1 Consolation Prize of 10/-. Not more than three photos may be entered by any competitor, and, if enlargements, must not exceed lOins. x 8 ins. unmounted. The title of the picture Ideally Situated in own Grounds on Sea Front and name and address of the competitor must be written on the back of the print. In the event of any Fully Licensed. Genuine Comfort. Excellent Cuisine. photograph being awarded a prize of £3 or £2, it is a IVfoderatc Charges. Hot and Cold Water in Bedrooms. condition that the winner shall surrender the negative VITA-GLASS SUN PORCH. and the copyright to the Irish Tourist Association. Boating, Bathing, Fishing, Golf and Tennis GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS AND CONDITIONS. Resident Proprietor: W. D. REVILLE. Prizes will be awarded for the entries which, in the opinion of the Adjudicators, deserve to be placed 1st, 2nd, etc., in order of merit. Not more than one ."'It•.II",",•••'IIIIIII'I"""I'III'II"'IIII""1111IIUIIIIII'U'I"III'IIIIIIII"II,IIIIIII'II'IIII'III.IUI" prize shall, be awarded to any competitor. Successful competitors in Sections I and II must, GREAT NORTHERN if required, furnish evidence of membership of one of the organisations mentioned. RAILW AY HOTELS Entries close ,on Saturday, September 30th, 1944, and results will be published in the November issue For COMFORT, CUISINE AND SERVICE of IRISH TRAVEL. The Adjudicators' decision will be final. Entries cannot be returned unless accompanied by a stamped addressed envelope. BUNDORAN ~Co. DONEGAL Entries must be accompanied by a special" Entry D~negal Coupon" which will appear in each monthly issue of On the shores of Bay. IRISH TRAVEL from May to September, 1944. Championship Golf Links. Address your entries to: " Photo Competition," Telephone: 24 IRISH TOURIST ASSOCIATION, 14 Up. O'Connell St., Dublin. (Coupon below). GREENORE Co. LOUTH On Carlingford Lough. Golf Links. LT.A. PHOTO COMPETITION, 1944 Telephone : 3 ENTRY COUPON I wish to enter above Competition according to the con­ ditions set out and I shall accept as final the decision of the NORTHERN IRELAND judges appointed by tbe I.T.A. in connection with the Competition. NAME AND SECTION . ROSTREVOR Co. DOWN POSTAL ADDRESS . On Carlingford Lough. Golf Links. Mild and S.heltered. Telephone: 6 No. of Entries enclosed .. If a fee is enclosed to cover return of entries by Apply to MANAGERESSES or at PRINCIPAL STATIONS registered post state here nature and amount of same

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Louth and Meath- ontd. from page 425. Mornington. At Mornington, Mr. Thomas Reynolds has a sailing boat for hire for pleasure The only parking places for cars are o? trips. At Laytown, there is a small amusements roadway and on space oppo ite Mr. Brang.1n s park for children, with hobby~horses, etc. Pavilion near Gormanstown Station. Dances D.ances are held as follows: -Northlands are held in the Silver Beach Pavilion. The Hotel, Bettystown; The Burrows Pavilion, i~ nearest Raz1lway Station Gormanstown, 100 Bettystown; The Tower Hall. Mornington; yards from strand and '2 mile from vIllage. .. Swan" Ballroom, Laytown. There is a Rail­ There is a good G.N.R 'Bus' service along.mam way Station at Laytown and frequent G.N.R Belfast~Dublin road midway between RaIlway Station and village. 'Church Services on Sunday 'Bus service. Church Services on Sunday are as are as follows: -RC. Church, Stamullen follows :-RC., Church, Bettystown, 7.15 (July ( 1i miles), 8.30 and 11 a.m.; RC. Church, and August only), 8.30 and 10.30 a.m.; RC. Julianstown (4 miles), 9.30 a.m.; Church Church, Mornington, 10.30 and 9 a.m. (alter­ of Ireland, Julianstown (4 miles), 11.30 a.m. nate Sundays); RC. Church, Drogheda (St. The Post Office in the village transacts all Mary's), 8, 10 and 11.30 a.m.; Church of business. Camping sites are: Near strand at Ireland, Colpe, 3 p.m.; Church of Ireland, Irishtown, 1 mile north of Gormanstown; near Drogheda (St. Mary's), 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. strand at Mosney, 2 miles north of Gormans~ There are Post Offices at Laytown and Bettys­ town-Landowners being, respectively, Mr. Jas. town which transact all. business. Camping Lynch, Irishtown, and Mr. John Oram, Mosney . sites: There are indefinite open spaces along House. strand between Bettystown and Mornington.

GREENORE (Pop. 221) is on Carlingford L~ugh at OMEATH (Pop. 350) is a small seaside resort its entrance to the sea. It is the termmus of directly opposite Warrenpoint, 20 miles north of Dundalk, Newry and Greenore Rail.way, .and IS Dundalk and 7 m. south-east of Newry. Swim· 15 miles north of Dundalk and a simIlar dIstance ming is safe in places, but subject to tides and south~east of Newry. There is approx. 3 ~iles strong currents. The beach is about 3 miles of beach. Bathing facilities are avaIlable long. Mixed bathing is allowed. No diving ~ at .. The Cutting," about mile along shore facilities, except for very strong swimmers at the from Greenore Hotel. Dances are held In pier head or dock at Charity Fathers. Motor the Assembly Rooms, Greenore, owne? by and rowing boats are available for pleasure L.M.S. Railway. Greenore Railway StatIOn IS trips. Dances are held at Irish National in the village, and a 'Bus route also passes Forresters' Hall. The Railway Station is in the through. Church Services on Sunday are as village. No 'Bus service. There are many follows :-Boher, RC. Church, 10 a.m.; St. Patrick's, Church of Ireland, Greenore, 9 a,m., sheltered camping sites along 'the shores of the 3 and 6 p.m.; Church of Ireland, Bush, 12 noon. Lough (Landowner, Mr. M. E. Hardy, DUblin The Post Office, on the main road, transacts ~ll House, Omeath). business. There is a camping site about t. m!le from the Hotel along the shore at The TERMONFECKIN (Pop. 200) is about 4i miles Cutting." (Miss Woodney, Greenore.) north~east of Drogheda on the Drogheda~ Clogherhead road. The Beach here forms part of a great run of sand from Baltray to Clogher­ 143) LAYTOWN (Pop. & BETTYSTOWN ,( Pop. ~:,. ~ood ba~hing 150) may be considered as one UnIt for head: !here and swtmming, but the purpose of holiday or travel survey. Lay~ no dIVmg faCIlItIes. M,xed bathing is allowed. town is 31 miles north of Dublin, 7 miles south~ Dances are held in the Parochial Temperance east of Drogheda, and is situated on one of the H1all.. The nearest Railw.ay S~ation is Drogheda, most magnificent beacnes in Ireland. Bett!Js~ 4 2 mIles away. There IS a Bus route through town is 1{ miles away to the north. The 3, ~I!es the village. Church Services on Sunday are as stretch of beach constitutes a worthy contInua~ follows:-Termonfeckin, RC. Church, 9 and tion of that from Gormanstown northwards to 11 a.m. (O.T.); Church of Ireland, Termon­ Laytown. Sandy, perfectly safe, and completely fe.ckin, 11.30 a.m. (S.T.); Sandpit, RC. (West free from treacherous currents, it is ideal for SIde), 10 a.m. (S.T.). The Post Office trans~ children. The beach shelves so very gradually acts all business. as to render bathing here unattractive to expert swimmers; these, however, are well catered for at Mornington, 2 miles north~west o,~ Bettys~ town, where, in'" The Minister's Pool, there IS ~:f"'::"D'lJB'~~~~;:;~~~~~j;;~~~""'~:';'~:'" a dz'ving-board. There is public right of way to beach at a sufficient number of places, par­ 1 - By Post 1/2t ticularly at Laytown and at Bettysto~n. :~:: Mixed bathing is allowed. The only parkmg IRISH TOURIST ASSOCIATION, O'CONNELL STREET, DUBLIN places for cars are along roads and on strand at : •• 'UIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIUllllllllfllllllfl.,111111111111111I1IIIIIIIIIllllllIll'l111l1111l1111l111l1111l1111.lllflll.. 428 IRISH TRAVEL July, 1944 • Great Northern Railway IS

PAGES of illustrations, 72 pages· of text, an index and a useful map in a book well 72 printed and bound, all for 1/6, seem incredibly good value. In this case it certainly is. a Centenarian The 72 pages of illustrations alone, with their album of engines, ancient and 1J1odern, passenger coaches, goods waggons, buses, bridges, stations, workshops, great .. battle of the routes," inland or coastal. tracks, should find an additional market that was Witnesses from Navan and other centres, along with not, perhaps, directly aimed at. Every boy, or, at rival witnesses from Drogheda, Balbriggan, etc., any rate, every second boy, loves trains and all confl~ting about them. This panorama of a great railway, as made partial and statements during a seen through the 72 pages of pictures in The Great 32-days' examination before a select Committee of Northern Railway, Past, Present and Future, should the House of Commons in London, The coastal draw a multitude of young readers. route was confirmed, but the suggestion for a. central For the. older ('nes, especially those who can station in O'Connell Street, Dublin, was not adopted look back over a considerable span of the Great and so began that system of peripheral depots which Northern's running, the story of its beginnings, keeps Dublin still a city of loose and inconvenient development and present progress, is full of interest. rail-location. . \..?f:here was the" Ulster Railway," of course, which .' W' anticipated the Great Northern by some seven years, At last, on March 15th, 1844, the Dublin­ a period of slower movement every way than our Drogheda line was in action. There was no failure own. Two years were spent in cutting the first 7-t of enthusiasm for the .. iron road" here. A Press miles. Then the directors adjourned the work for account tells how .. the band struck up, the crowd further consideration. When, at last, the short line, cheered, at every bridge the people collected to give Belfast to Lisburn, was opened, the newspapers it a welcome, a salute of six guns was fired from the reported: .. No ceremony was observed at the coast-guards' boat at Malahide, twelve guns at opening, which was most properly kept free from Skerries, more guns again en route and then into anything savouring of display or patronage." That Drogheda to the sound of the joy-bells and the was a restful age, before the great storms of advance acclamation of thousands." publicity and propaganda began to blow; and, perhaps, the directors discouraged publicity for The further story of the laying down and develop­ another reason, locally understandable, and, histori­ ment of the Drogheda-Belfast and other sections cally, very amusing. For very soon a number of' makes fascinating reading, and altogether the book, Sabbath-sensitive people opened an attack on with its added sections on locomotives, railcars, roll­ Sunday trains. A spokesman, in his church, cried ing stock, the Boyne viaduct, and the Dundalk out: .. They are sending souls to the devil at 6d. works, will please many a traveller, as well as a stay­ apiece. Every sound of the engine whistle is at-home. Mr. Kevin Murray has done his work answered by a shout in hell." admirably. FIRST TRAIN FOR DROGHEDA. -The Great Northern Railway (Ireland), Past, The plans for the Dublin-Drogheda line; the first Present and Future, by KEVIN MURRAY. working section of the Great Northern, produced a Published by the Company. 1/6,

""I"'IIII'llllllllllllllt"II'IIIIII"I'IIIIII~'111JIIII"II.IIIIIIII.II•• 'II.III••I.III.IIII••••• ' •••• ,1111••• ,1111.11••111111,•••1111,.'1111111111111•••••11."1111111'1"1131'1'1111111111""'111111'1"'111'11'1.11,.111'.1.11111"'.1111" THE MUNSTER & LEINSTER BANK Ltd. Head Office: 66 SOUTH MALL, CORK 206 BRANCHES AND SUB-BRANCHES Comprehensive BANKING & FOREIGN EXCHANGE Service DUBLIN BRANCHES: DAME STREET O'CONNELL STREET GRAFTON STREET INCHICORE PHlBSBORO PEMBROKE' DONNYBROOK RATHGAR DRUMCONDRA BAGGOT STREET RATHFARNHAM CRUMLIN BELFAST LIMERICK DERRY GALWAY Inchicore Branch, Dublin. '''''UII''''''I,.t'''''I"",'IIIIII'''''''I'''I''I''''''".,1.,1"1•••••••,.'••••••" •••• ,1" •• 11 ••••" •••• ,'11111 •••• ,.t.ll.II ••• 'I.IIIIIIIII •• IIIIIII.II.IIIII•••••••'••••• 1,••••••'••••,.,1."'.,••• ,11, •••••" •• ,1 ,. July, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 429 BOWLERS TAKE TO THE WOODS By TOM BYRNE Famous Birth-places HE season of bowls is with us again; all the Dublin clubs are now in full swing, with the '2======(1 O),====:::dJ T local players, as well as a large number of visitors, particularly from Northern Ireland, in a':tion at Grosvenor Square, Clontarf, Crumlin, Blackrock, KINCORA HOUSE, DUNDALK Park Avenue, and Rathmines. The game has developed its popu1arity, and the Clontarf club's report of a big number of new members this season applies to the other clubs as well. Bowlers, I fancy, are distinct from other men con~ cerned in sport; there is a brotherly feeling amongst them that is world-wide, and if you are a bowler and travel to any corner of the globe, you are always welcome to bring your woods along and you will certainly get a very hearty reception. . In Dublin, . when conditions were normaL we had visitors from Australia, South Africa, Canada, New Zealand, and so bowlers going all over the world find a welcome waiting for them.

FIRST MUNICIPAL GREEN. For the first time in the history of the game we are to have Municipal bowling greens. The first Municipal green ever in the 26 Counties area has been opened by the Lord Mayor, Alderman M. O'Sullivan, turning the sod at Herbert Park, Balls~ bridge. The green is now complete, but owing to the scarcity of rain at the moment of writing, it may not be. fit for play this season. I am fully convinced that this new green at Herbert Park is only the fore~ runner of a number of other Municipal greens that will be put down by the Dublin Corporation. There !s also the promise of a new green at Dun Laoghaire; III fact, some members of the Bowling League of Ireland have already selected a site. Kincora House, Seatown Place, Dundalk, in which The Whit week~end saw a big number of Vice~Admiral MCCLINTOCK, Arctic explorer in Northern Ireland bowlers in Dublin, in addition to search of Sir John Franklin, was born in 1819. •th~ Northern Ireland Private Greens League, who were playing the Bowling League of Ireland in the Inter~Association Championship. The Northern Ireland Priv~e Greens League remained over for an engagement with Leinster at Rathmines. EVERYBODY SWIMI VISITING PLAYERS WELCOMED. All bowlers who are visiting Dublin during the summer months should bring their woods with them. The greens are within easy reach of the city: Kenil~ worth at Grosvenor Square, and Leinster at Rath~ mines Road on the ground of the Leinster c.c. especially so. In Crumlin there are two greens; one at Iveagh Grounds, which belong to the St. James' Gate Clut, and the other near the village of Crumllll, the property of the Imperial Tobacco Co. At Donny~ carney we have the Clontarf Green in the grounds of the Clontarf Golf Club, and at Green Road, Blackrock, the Blackrock Club's ground, eaSily accessible from Dun Laoghaire. No matter from where they come, and so long as they are bowlers, there is a hearty welcome for all on any green they choose to visit. They have only to come along, say they are bowlers, and the rest Municipal Pool, Cork will be plain sailing. 430 IRISH TRAVEL July, 1944 ROMANCE of the ILCHESTER OAK Beaches for Everyone (See Picture on Curiosities Page) 11 11

N the west side of the avenue leading to Glen~ stal Priory, Co. Limerick, now a Benedictine O college, and about 200 yards from Gate Lodge, stands the Ilchester Oak, of which this story is related: Long before the Barringtons, the pre~Benedictine owners, came to GlenstaL the estate was known as Clppercullen, in the possession of an O'Grady, poor 4,( but of noble birth. Coppercullen House stood in the present gardens of the Priory. O'Grady had an only child, a very beautiful daughter. Her favourite pastime was swinging from the branches of an oak tree near the house, from which she had a view of the lovely countryside to the west, and also had an , . opportunity of seeing and being seen by all who passed by. At a ball in Limerick she met Lord Stavordale, who was then stationed there with his regiment. He was at once attracted by Miss O'Grady, and danced SALTHILL. much with her. After that he often rode out to see her and spent a great deal of time in her company, roaming through the woods. Her father, fearing that no good could come of this friendship, secretly wrote to Stavordale's father, the Earl of Ilchester, explain~ ing the position and requesting that Stavordale be removed from Limerick. It was O'Grady's opinion that the Earl of Ilchester would not for a moment consider his daughter as a suitable partner for the son.

THE MYSTERIOUS COLONEL. In due course, O'Grad'j had a reply from Ilchester, thanking him for his interest in his son's welfare and promising compliance with his wishes. It was also intimated that an old friend, Colonel Prendergast, would soon be in the area and would call to thank O'Grady personally, Stavordale disappeared from Limerick and not a word was heard from him, with the result that Miss O'Grady began to fail in health. TRAMORE. In due course, Colonel Prendergast arrived at Coppercullen, was well received by O'Grady and spent most of his time riding about with Miss O'Grady, with whom he was charmed. When the time for departure came, he did his utmost to con~ vince the father that Lord Ilchester would be delighted to have his daughter as a wife for Stavor~ dale. O'Grady contended that on account of his poor circumstances Lord Ilchester would not consent to such a marriage, and thanked Prendergast for his kind words and help. Finally, Prendergast admitted that he was in reality the Earl of Ilchester and was completely captivated by the young lady. This caused great joy, and in due course the marriage took place. The present Ilchester family and that of the Marquis of Lansdowne are descended from this union, and the tree favoured by Miss O'Grady is still known as the Ilchester Oak and viewed by many each year. COURTOWN HARBOUR AND STRAND. July, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 431 The Theatre in Dublin and the Provinces By OUT-FRONT

o have come, theatrically speaking, through Tumulty, will be staged in August. Other revivals five years of self~reliance, not merely success­ of popular works are also planned, and it is hoped T fully, but even with increasing strength and that the Playwriting Competition, which closes in solidity, is no small achievement for a small country October, will furnish the theatre with several new which had previously depended upon external works of merit. sources of supply for the greater part of its enter~ tainment. A cursory glance over the last five years CORK PLANS. shows that, at the Gaiety Dublin, we have had, each Gr~nd Lord Longford, during his Gate Theatre season, year, two seasons of Opera, modern musical which will last until December, may be relied on to plays and light Opera in varied abundance, and stage a series of interesting plays that will include drama of every kind from Shakespeare and Shaw to works of a classical character as well as outstand~ the most recent of London West-End plays, to say ing plays of the modern theatre. The Dublin nothing of revue with a native comedian of inter~ JJ Theatre G~ild, which was responsible for bringing ! national fame. The Flashmg Stream to Dublin during the past '/0 . As an example of the cosmopolitan character of spring,. will, in all probability, present equaJIy the plays offered, during one week, in 1943, works attractive plays after Christmas,. while She1ah by four authors of as many nationalities were Richards and Michael Walsh are also planning their presented in Dublin by native companies. Dublin season. The Cork Opera House, while hoping that trans~ INDEPENDENT PRODUCER-MANAGER~ port conditions will facilitate the visits of Dublin The emergency has also brought forward several. productions, plans a Symphony Concert with Charles independent producer-managers, who have not only Lynch as solo pianist, and Rita Lynch, soprano; a contributed to the Dublin continuancy, but have performance of Shakespeare's A Mt'dsummer Niflht's even kept the flag flying in the larger. provincial Dream and a Variety concert, and, later, St. John cities, where local companies have also n~en t? the Ervine's Anthony and Anna by the Cork Little occasion and increased the number of theIr produc~ Theatre. and.the Cork Operatic SOciety's production tions to an extent which had previously been of The MaId of the Mountains, Another Cork considered a physical impossibility. Notwith~t~nd­ ensemble, The Aristocrats, will prOVide high­ ing steadily deteriorating transport. condlyons, class ~ar.iety after ~he manner of the English several touring ensembles have kept gomg wIthout Co~Optlmlsts; and RIchard Forbes will return to interruption. his native city to present the annual Christmas The amateur societies also have successfully pantomime. And so one may say that all's well with experimented, by taking their productions to towns the Irish Theatre. within easy reach of headquarters. The growth of amateur movement was recently reflected when 36 THE FIVE FISHERS. groups from all over Ireland took paft and presented full~length plays in the Dramatic Art Section of a Dublin Feis.

SIX WEEKS' REPERTORY. The outlook for the coming season is that, in every direction, the same high level will be the rule. The Shot.') Boat at the Gaiety will be succee~ed by ~ new revue featuring Jimmy O'Dea, and a SIX ~eeks season of repertory, which will include Arsenic a~1 Old Lace, by the Gate Theatre Pr?d~ctions, wJ! follow. Next comes Irish Week, conslstmg of dram.a in Irish and in English, as well as a ?ew Gae1Jc opera by Eamonn 0 Gallcobhair. MUSICal comedy and light opera will then take over, and, .finally, two weeks of Grand Opera will bring thmgs up to Christmas. Opening early in July with The Jailbird, the Abbey will follow with a revival of Shadow and Substance to be succeeded by Yeats' The Player Left to Right: Messrs. T. Davoren, S. D. Campbell, , W' d A Queen and The Words upon the In owpane. G. White, G. McCambridge and J. Davoren show new play, End House, by a new author, Joseph their day's catch on Lough Corrib.• I"· "··" ··,..":~~'~~.~~:.~..,..~~~~~" .."

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:.~ (Prepared by the Department 0/ Fisheries) To be obtained through anj> ~:ik:~le;:'~:T.A ~:"re~u:'S~lI ~! ~~/ast. Cork. or direct /rom:- :._.:: : • GOVERNMENT PUBLICATIONS SALE OFFICE, 3·4 COLLEGE STREET, DUBLIN •• ""'1'1'111"'1'11'1""1"1'1111'1"11"'11'1"1'1'11'11'11'1111"'11'1'11'1'1111111"'11'1111'1111111""111""1"1'11"11111"1""1'11'1'11'11'1'1111'11'111'1'111'11'1"11'1'1"111111111111'1111'111111111'11'1'1111.1•• 1111,111111 ••••11.1.·

.... 1'111111"1".11.11'1'11'1.111'•• "1.1111111' ••1'.1111'11"1'1'111'11111'1"'1'111'11111111'11111"1'11"'"1""11 GLENBAY HOTEL FERRARD HOTEL LICENSED Telephone: CLOGHERHEAD 7. CLOGHERHEAD A.A.. R.LA.C. Be.ide G.N.R. Bu. Terminu. and Catholic Church. Sea. 5 min•. Per Day (3-6 Days) Goodwill £0 17 6 INCLUSIVE Per Week £5 5 0 Courtesy CHARGES (Sharing) £4 14 6 Good Service Per Week·End £1 15 0 Consideration BOOKING FROM 1st JULY. 1944 MALINMORE, GLENCOLUMBCILLE Thi. Hotel i. being equipped with all modern convenience. in ~ Telegrams: GLEN BAY. GLENCOLUMBCILLE. Apply CUNNINGHAM ,_ accordance with the requirements of the Iri.h Touri.t Board F. .. IIII "'.. II IIIIII I.I.. I ..I.IIIII.IIIIII I 1 "11.1..111 ..11.111 ..,11111 ; _1111'1111111"'II'III'II"'ltllll'IIIIIIIII""IIII'I'11'11'111111"111111111111'111'11111'1"1'11'1"1'11'111111.11:

11111111""1'11"1111'"'"111111""1"1'11""11'111111'111'11'""1111.1.11" ..1111111'1.'.'1....1.11'1.1111.'..11'1111.1.'111'1111111111'1111'11'1111'1111111'11111"'1'1"1'1"11'111'11111'1'11111'111111'1'11"'111'111111111111'11111'1'L THE NATION'AL BANK LIMITED offers an unrivalled service in the financing of foreign trade and the procurement of funds at the most favourable rates every~ where. Every description of foreign business is transacted. DUBLIN: 34 & 35 College Green. LONDON: 13-17 Old Broad St., E.C.2 234 Offices throughout Ireland and 26 Offices in London and Great Britain. Agents and Correspondents throughout the Wodd ESTABLISHED 1835

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LT.A. SALE PUBLICATIONS I= WHEN IN DUBLIN I: GUIDES (Illustrated) CONNACHT. Galway, Connemara, Mayo, Achill, Sligo, i Stay at i Lough Gill, Leitrim and Roscommon. 148 pp. 6d. CORK. City and County. 128 pp...... , 6d. DONEGAL. Includin!!" the Highlands, Inishowen, llundora:;. 130 pp. .., 6. DUBLIN. City and County. 230 pp. :-Iap 1/- I Four Courts Hotel I GALWAY. City and County 3d. GLENDALOCH (Wicklow). Guide; :-faps 6d. KERRY. 150 pp. Two Maps 6d. Bed, Breakfast 9/6 KILLARNEY 3d. LIMERICK. ity and County. :-Iaps. 8~ pp. 3d. Luncheon -- 2/9 LOUGHREA 3d. WATERFORD. City and ounty. 74 pp. 3d. or A LA CARTE WICKLOW/WEXFORD. Two-County C.uide 6d. MAPS DUBLIN. Street ~Iap. Stiff Covers 6d. Suff TIoard IRELAND. 12 miles to 1 inch on paper. .., 6d. MODERN overs... .., . IRELAND, as above, on cardboard and eyeletted for hangl~lf6 ]LOU GJE OTHER PUBLICATIONS CANOEING IN IRELAND. By Major Ra,,:en.Hart. c?\'e~s BAR the Shannon, Erne, narrow, SUlr, ~bore1r nl~ckx:t~h Doyne Liffey, etc., and Lochs Corn, J: as , . a 1 B. J. TENNANT, Manager and Killarney Lakes; also Loch Foyle and ome ~oa;l;' areas . IRELAND OF THE WELCOMES. 3rd Ed. By D. L. Kelleher . .. 2/· IRISH CURIOSITIES. 100 pp. of Pictures .. , 2/- FOUR COURTS HOTEL, LTD. MOUNTAINEERING IN IRELAND. Dublin, Wicklow, ]\'erry, Tipperary, Connemara, ~fourne, Donegal, etc. 1/6 Phones 73543·73075 INNS QUAY, DUBLIN Irish Tourist Association, O'Connell St. Dublin ;'111111"111"11'111111"11'111'111"1111'11'1111111111111111"1'1111111'111111111'11111111111111111111'11'1111'Ill'. : 11 1"""1l11l11l11l1l1l1"11I11l~ "::1'''11111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111'111 I

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