SUBSCRIPTION PUBLISHED 5/- PER ANNUM. EACH MONTH. 00 COPIES FREE 00 TO ALL MEMBERS WHOLESALE FROM OF THE IRISH ASSOCIATION AND EASON & SON, Ltd. OF ITS ASSOCIATE DUBLIN. DEPARTMENT TRAVEL OFFICIAL ORGAN OF THE IRISH TOURIST ASSOCIATION. DUBLIN

VOL. 4. NOVEMBER. 1928. NO. 3.

l'llLes and taxes. In doesn't suit the Southern shop­ keeper, the outhern wholesaler, or the Southern Co,-operation between manufacturer, as you of the North probably know. I have lived a long time in Southern Ireland, and 1 South. have never yet met an Irishman \\'ho would aive you North and hi, last penny. Indeed he very wisely thinks twice President of I.T.A. urges establishment of Joint before he gives :\ou his first. \Vere our people not Council to advertise Ireland's attractions. llatUl'illly hardhpaded and disciplined, it would not be poible for the Government of the Saorstat to enforce business reaulatioll on the agricultural com­ u. J. C. EOLEY, 'ork, President of the Irish lllunity, and to get the people to fnll into line with Tourist .\ssociation, speakin!.{ at Rosaponnll, it· big businesc; outlook, n evidenced in it, Shtll1non M Co, Donegal, on the occasion of the recent • cheme, its co-opemtivp marketing scheme, its edu­ vi,;it of the Directors of the .\ssociation, paid a eational scheme , and 0 on. tribute to their distinguished host, Lont Leitrim, On the other hand, the Northern Irishman was sup­ for his lavish ho. pitality and kindl,'" Irish posed to be dour, cold, mnterial, highly disciplined, welcome, and his appreciation of the efforts of the Association to develop the touri,t iudustr,'", efforts in nnd one \\'ho, having no 'sen e of humour, thought of nothing except business, like the Aberdonians who which his Lordship had taken a worthy, if more or le s think out jokes at their own expense. The Northern silent part. It \yas 011 his invitation that the Council of the Association had decided to hold some of its Irishman kept up this pretence and enjoyed it as a good joke. I know the North very well and from monthly meetings in the provinces, and he was sure \Vhil~ ther~ that it wa a satisfaction to hi· Lordship to know close observation I lmow that is no less that he had gatherel around him at that fe,Live board businc., talent than in the South, neither is there delegates from practicaIl \. c\'er county in the Irish le, s musical talent, artistic conception, love of litera­ ture, in short, no less culture, and there is at least Free State. . v as keen a sense of humour as we can lay claim to. North and South. "\Vell, we can all enjo." OUl' jokes, bnt we should be , "The occasion, " said ?-lr, FoIe,'", " is unique, form· earefnl that le, informed people may not believe lIlg a distinct line of demarcation betwecn the old 11l1d them. . the n w Ireland. It marks the ascendancy of economic Need for Co-operation. over political considerations in this cou~tl'\" both in fu . e orth and in tho South. FormerlY as YOU kno'" It is therefore not urprisin~ when an economic ~ve indulged in many mistaken idea,:;, ';1' pr~tended t~ mo\'oment . uch as the tourist development is under­ ll1~lulge in them, regarding each other. A Southern tak n that all parts of the countr" are unanimou irr ~ovement Inshman,\\ '.

--~-- retained a "'arm interest in the land of his ancestors. SpLlin ha, many such sons of Irish ancestry descended from the 'Wild Geese of thrce centuries who entered her service and distinguished themselves in every Notes and Nevvs. field of endeavour. The Leipzig Fair. Count O'Kelly. Lnst month \\'13 referred t.o the prospect of securing \Y 13 had the honour of :t visit during the month publicit.v for Irelnnd's tourist facilities at the great from Count 0 'Kelly de Gallagh, representative of the International Exhibition held annually at Leipzig, aorstat at Brussels. He foreshadO\I'I> the prospect of Germany. \:re are now in a position to state thnt an organised tour of Ireland next :veal' by some of such publicity has been arranged for, thank., to the his Belgian friends, and he took the opportunity to interest nnd generosity of the _~ orth German Lloyd make numerous valuable suggestions for the impl~ovc­ Shipping Co., \yho have been good .enough to. plnce ment of our conn"ctions in continental countriefi. at the disposal of the 1.'1'._\. a pm-I. IOn of thClr O\I'n Count 0 'Kelly hopes that some day the epic of space. For this facility we are especially indebted to Ireland's " \Yild Gee. e " \\'J II be u'ied LIS the subject :M. J. O'Keeffe,:Jlanager of the Limeric!{ Steam, hip of a great Irish film. \Vith the miJlions in Emopesful conclusion. be a med of a ready-mane popularit~-. For the film­ producer in the.3e days of mass production, when the Galway as an Ocean Port. supply of thrills must be nearing exhaustion, the In face of the obvious clash of interests bet\I'cen great saga holds elements of ghunour and romance various Irish ports wh ich is evoked b,v schem , for based on actual hi,tor,v to pale the faces of n11 our the dcvelopment on LI ILIrge fiCtdc of anyone of them, pres nt-da,Y sheikh. and Bean Cl stes. \\'e fihall, we hope, be excused from ex pressing an opinion on the Gal\\'av l>ort Development Scheme, To and from Scotland. l' centh' resurrected in" t.he Irish Senate by Senator \Ve recently had the pleasure of our first sea voynge by the Burns and Laird service between Dublin nnd Gog-art·\,.... '1'he scheme.:>.oriainated bv Sir John Griffith claim' definite advantages over existing arrangements Gla. gall". \Ye can confe,fi to ome misgivingfi before the ~u('h a are bound to appeal to Tran atlantic carry­ v nI., due perhap to, ome inherent doubt. LIS to our Il1g companie. 'Ye thcrcfor \I'elcome the oppor­ ea-fnring capacit,'" 'Y are glad t.o "a,- su('h a doubt tunity which Senator Gogarty has had proyided for \\-a without foundation. In gnugin~ 'the rea,>on for an examination of thc merits of the cheme. It will the acknO\dedged popularity of the" Glasgow boat .. b.e an equally valuable opportunity for the eonsidera­ with travellers to and from. cotlnnd, \\'13 are inclined t.lon of alternatives and flS a result for the formulation to attach .prime ~:np.orb)n('e to the element of ])er­ of a definite policy to'.Yardfi flvailing to the full of tllt' fional serVJce. ,\ Jthll1 half an hour of leavina the key position 'I'hich Ireland hold, on the trade routes Xorth \Yall you are, unl fiS you deliberately av~d it, of the world. impresfied with a per, anal interest in y~u on the part of every member of the staff. 'That' is the item British Royal Visitors. which makes all the difference in travel-t.hat com­ The recent visit to t.heir Irish estate of Princess bined with the punctual attention, first-class ervic ~Iar.v and her husband, Viscount Lascelles, mu, t and scrup ousl.\' neat appearance of everyt.hinO' which have had an easing effect on thousand., of Britishers impres es all patrons of the B. & L. boats. b 5::l IRISH TRAVEL. Novelllber, 1928.

A Comeragh Ramble. 13." V. F. O'Connor. The Beautiful Nire Valley.

HE faint pealing of distant bells reached our sacrifice, while on the peaks around watchers were ears as we ascended the hills. The Angelus stationed to report the arrival of Shaun na Soggarth T \\'as ringing in Clonmel, in the hollow. and the military se,lrcher , should they come the way. Pausing on a height, we looked backward. Slieve­ Shaune nnabreaga, little John the liar, got its name namon dominated the fertile plains ~preading away apparently from its deceptive distance. Approach it, to the horizon. One of the looped meanderings of and it receded like the mockery of a mirage. Knock­ the SuiI' showed gleaming in tbe sun, like a silver aunnapeebra, the mount of the Piper, who crossing dirk thrown on the green s\\"ard. Again, we went on there, to make a short cut over the mountain cominCT with the woods on our left, stirring in the breeze that from a wedding celebration \yas lost in a sno~v.storn~~ blew down the chflnnel of the mountain stream.. Soon The weird calling of chanter and drone is upposed to we came to the bridge that eeho, in [Jeriod~ of storm, amongst spanned the rivulet. Rushing t.he mysteriou defiles of the from a eoombe scooped out of the mountain, the baffled crie of a hill, \\·here laurel scrubs grew soul in agon.\'. .\s we parted {ram profusel,v, the water precipitated our mountain friend a golden sun itself down the mountain amain. was high in the heavens. We The coombe is fancifully named mopped heated brows. The ham­ the Devil's Punch-bowl. Later, let. \\'e spied in the far away dis­ the hills enclo ed us in their tance \yas Glendalou~hin. Larks folds, as \\"e proceeded. Ling find lilted gaily overhead. .From the heather extended around, mingled gorse that flamed fI' \\'e pn,:;sed, with other coarse growths of the ,t frightened grouse arose, now higber land~, where the sb ep and then. A cock of the wooels browsed contentecUv in large, \\'hirred forth from an oak find slow-moving flock;;,' occn. ionalIy larch plantation. Though the shepherded by a barking dog. \\'flrmth of t.he day had reached Topping a hillock, we arrived at a us no\y, coming over Shauneen.l­ natural stairwav whose broad breaga, a cool wind fanned us fiB steps led downw~l:ds. The Gaelic \\'e went., veerin~ during the day name of the place is Sthyra, as we its drift, from Knockaunnapeebrn, learned. It brought us b.\' cot­ it bore the tang of the sea, tages scattered far U\\"a.v jn the mingled with heather scents. fields. \Ve ,:;topped for a moment Those Comcrngh tors pierced the to pass the time of day at one. ('loud mfls '01' with their arid The man standing at the doorway peaks. The miles of hill trnveI seemed, without saying so, to Photo) Sirc Chapcl. (LT.A. went bv lowl" until Shanballv- envy us our freedom. He was fine, on' the ne~r foothill', with i'ts chained to the farm and the bleating sheep in the white·washed cottflges, let us knolV we \\'ere near our fields. Perhaps we only imflgined this, making no objective. A stream flflshecl b.\' fl. rock" knoll, wash­ due allowance for the content which daily contact ing its bflRe; its top \\'fIJ, crowned \\'ith trees. 'l'his with nature invflriflbly brings. He was a gentlemfln was our first glimpse of the Nire River, find after a of tbe mountain, and he conver ed with U!'3 with old­ furth l' journey \\'e pas ed the chapel, and the fields fashioned politeness. The d scendant of fI Norman on both side of th ·,tream grew more 1·vel. Here, knight, mayhap, flS hi, nflme \vould indicate, in the choo, ing a vantflg ]lInce, \\'e unpacked our rods to loneliness of those solitlldes. En pflssant, we may explore its ,Yflters. But., lunch nt fill hazards, after say that the O'Faolain country has its de Botelier:;, our climb. d~ Cantetouns, de Xorreys, de la Poers, giving a " .\ stoup of malvoise " virile m£'lflnge of fill thflt is b . t of their, and of the " .\nd pasty of th doe," DId Celtic rflce, the blended strain which made pos­ sible the Ke11,vs, the Burke-:; and Shefls! He pointed would suit the scene. However, the friendly flask of out the peaks to 1.1'> in detail: Knockanaffrin was the my Waltoninn eom pan ion, and the substantial sand­ Mass hill, where in Penal days in hidden recesses and wichc3 which we shared a-man.\', if lacking romance, C\overt folds the people gatbered to partake in its \\'ere agreeably real \\·hen sampled from his bulging [Cont. oppositc.l 54 R 1 November, 1928. I SH TRAVEL. The Duhallovv Hunt. 13y Vuhallow.

ham 'hepherd-who always hO,ws the. "'ay, being THE writer of huntsman a well as Master. He is not of the type this article freely that hunts merely to ride, nor yet of those who have admits that he i.; de"eloped their di crelion at th expense of th ir a partist\l1, and ",dour. perhaps preju- Strangers coming to this country will find horses diced. The of the "ery best hunting type to hire or purchase at glories of the extremely rea,onable term . grand old hunt lOu ean live comfortably, even luxuriously, in the are his justifica­ town of Mallow (the centre of the district where the tion. 0 1 cl e l' kennels are situated). than most of the hunts of Ireland, it shows few igns of the scars of time. and eems to grow more fre,l1 and vigorolll:; with the passing yeaI' . . Few hunts can compare with thtlt of Duhallow III the extent of their territory, in lhe sporting spirit of their people, and last, bul not least, in the abun­ dance of its foxes. The Duhallow countrY is a might.v one, embracing tbe wbole of Counh' Cork north of the Bhlckwater, from Fernlov and' l-lilchelstO\Yn on the ea t, and Kanlurk and' ~ewmarket on the ""est; it runs for over 40 mile , "'ith an almo t equal ,yidth from north la ">outh, South of the Black\yater it clairns the tract of country from Fermo,v to Blarney and beyond, \\'here it marches with the United and Mmkerry Photo] The Duhal/olV Hunt. [Author. countrie . In the immense tract is found every variety of The accommodation for man and horse is of the hunting countr,v, This variety is the charm of best, the proof of which lies in the fact that people Duhallow, and therein lies its claim to have no who have hunted here most assuredly return. superior in the wide world. The committee, members, and all connected with Good indeed as the country is, it is not too good the Hunt are at all times delighted to welcome visi­ for its people. 'l'he Duhallow farmer, his wife, his tors. All information will be furnished by Mi3S son and his daughter, his man servant, his maid Allon, Woodfort, Mallow, Hon. Secr tary to Duhallow Rervant (I had almost wTitten and his ox and his ass) Hunt. come of a sporting stock, and rare indeed is the one that does not run true to blood. Even in the hotte t and m~st stormy times of the Land League the Hunt was able to carr." on, and aho during thc Great 'War the Hunt was helped through, A Comeragh Ramble (cont.) thanks to the efforts of Mr. W. . Barr~', of Ca tlecor, and his wife, Mrs. Barr.v, one of the most di, till­ knapsack. As we smoked in comfortable after-dinner gui,hed followers since her childhood. mood, the clouds, which we noticed gathering as we Long .veal'S of careful breeding have given us a C,lme into the valley, veiled the, un. and the widen­ magnificent type of foxhound. ing circles in pools showed that the fish had begun to feed. With the passing light the shadows increased Pace has not been developed at the expen,e of t~ centing powers, neither have legs been sacrificed to and our taut lines helped to heap our baskets nose a strong sta;ving, hard working t."pe; they fll'€' overflowing. At len~th, and with reluctance, we patient and persevering on a cold scent, :vet with wound our ree1:3, filled wit.h the enjoyment of a per­ flmazing dash and pace when conditions call for a fect, pleasurable walk, and the contentment of a flier. fisherman' successful clay well spent in glorious sur­ \Ve flre indeed lucky in our M.F.H.-J. Sherring- roundings. 55 IRISH TRAVEL. November, 1928.

.'By The Motorist In Burren. G. C. Stacpoole.

HE praises of Killarney, Wicklow and Conne- which white mountain avens, dazzling blue gentians, mara have been often and deservedly sung; large petunia-coloured cranesbills, and lovely creamy T but many an Irish motorist could name at roses of almo·t dwarf growth flourish in profusion. least half a dozen places of alm03t equal picturesc;,ue- In addition to its botanical interest, the place is ness and interest, though less frequented. Among crowded ,,'ith antiquities of every period; medireval such comparatively unknown localities the Burren castles, early ehurches, and numberless prehistoric district of Clare may be given a prominent place. Its forts and dolmen3 are all to be found within the weird grey limestone hills are a paradise for the an- borders of Burren. The motoring antiquary who tiquary, botanist and geologist, and prOVIde numerour;; wi hes to make a closer study of these is recom- subject3 for sketchbook and camera; and it can be mended to earl',)' a large-scale Ordnanee 'urvey map, easily reae-hed by car from Lahinch, Lisdoonvarna or as owing to the stony nature of the country the ruins Ennis. Whichever of these starting-points may be so re emblc the UlTounding rocks that they may selected, the motorist is advised to carry a picnie easily be passed over. lunch or tea and a l3ufficiency of petrol; he should Wonderful natural amphitheatr s of stone arc also also see that his to be seen here, each radiator is well filled, large enouah to seat for water i as scarce seveml hundred spec- in Burren as it was tator , if such a num- in the days of Crom- bel' \"ere ever as- well, who is reported sembled in this lonely to have said that" in spot, \"hile in the that country there valle.y of Kilcorney, was not waler enough not far ",,,ay, is a to drown a man, hlq cave through wood enough to hang which a subterranean him, nor earth ri\'er flows. From enough to bury him. .. the highest point of The npproach 10 the road a marv Ilou, Durrcn from Ennis view of the terraced is more aUrI1ctive hills anc1 Galway Bay than the rather dreary lie" before us; thence Toads :from 1,ahinch the road winds down and Liscloonvarna: Photo) Cor7cscrelo Hill. [LT.A. the hillside in long and should the -ounty town of Clare l:e ehosen as sweeps, much easier to negotiate than the better- the starting-point, a good road brings the motorist a known" Corkscrcw Hill," whose fiv hairpin b nds distance of 8 miles to Corotin, whence the strange demnnc1 the c1river' attention to the compl te ex- while terraces l f the hills are clearly visible away to clusion of the scenery. the north. Passin'.{ the ruined church of Kilnaboy, A little further on the car reach s the village of be3ide which stands the stump of a Round Tower, Ballyvau!jhan, ,,·hence the wonderful drive round the car ascends the steep hill of Roughan, and a Black Head can be begun. The views of onn. glorious view of the wide central plain of Clare open mara, the Aran I lands and th blue Atlantic on a far away behind. A pause should be made at the clear day nre magnificent; and under the pictur 'que top of the hill to enjoy ils beaut.v and to examine low cliff. by the roadside, near Crumlin, a halt mav the quaint stone cross marking the boundm'? of the be called ~ search for maidenhair and oth l' ferns i~ lands of the old church belm\'. A shor run then the de r fiR. mes of the rocks. 'Th return to the brimrs the car to Lcmanea~h Castle, whence fierce startin!j·point is mnde bv ,,'ay of the long- but not ]\faureen Ruc O'Brien terroriRed the countr.'Tide in very steep asc-ent past Ballinalacken Castle on its dayR gone b.',; and turnin~ to the right, the motorist lofh' C'rng. whence beautiful viC\n; of rock nna sea- at last enters the rocky region which is his goal. coast are obtained. Although the road is still Rteadilv ascending, there There are man:v other drives of considerable interest are no ver.v visible hills on this side of Burren, the in this strung-ely fascinating- district: and the motor- southem portion of the di<;trict being mereh' a plateau, in!j holida."-maker \\'ho chooses the norlh-westem consisting for the most part of sheets of grey rock, corner of lare for a summer trip will by no means carefullv divided by " lace\\'ork " walls inlo fields, in lose his reward. 56 IR ISH November, 1928. TRAVEL.

Castlelo/t'/lshe1Jd IIarbour. [1.T.A. Photo] The Glorious Coast of Carbery.. By D. I. M orrell.

E live in South Wales-George ilUd 1. It Certainly there \\'a much to interest us: romantic was a glorious ummer evening, and a; we walks over wild heather-covered country, down nar­ W sat by the open windo\\' Gcorge uddenl,'" row lanes full of \\·ild flowers and fuchsia trees, beau­ tiful a those of Devon, leading to tiny, unfrequented remarked: - " Made any plans for the holidays yet?" " ('oves, with strands ide;tl for bathing, These shel­ " Holidays are flat, stale and unprofi,t,able, said I tered coves are the home of a myriad butterflies, wearilv. "I'm aoina to stay at home. some of them a]mo t extinct in England. " \Vhv not co':ne ~ith me? I'm going to S.W. We climbed "The Beacon," the great heather­ Ireland,'" ,said he. covered promontory ('losing the eastern side of the I sat up with a jerk. "To Ireland?" . harbour "'ith wild granite cliffs, deep caverns and " Yes," he continued, "I aw a most allurmg rugged rocks far finer than the Cornish coast. On poster inviting me to ' See Ireland fir 1.,' so I got a the western side rises the peaked height of Sherkin bill about excursions to-day. The Great Western 1s1and, one of the largest of the" Hundred Isle "of Railway in connection with the ity of Cork team­ Roaring Water Ba.v. Close to the water's edge of excu~sions packet W Co., are running cheap for 16 days Sherkin stand the ruins of a fine Franciscan Abbey every Thursday between May and October. We can which flourished in the 15th century. Enoug'h re­ leave London at (3 p.m. and be right away ~n the mains of the nave, the choir and tower to show that furthest point of the S.W. coast of Ireland m less it mu t have been it beautiful building. We climbed the lighthouse on the island, and a sea view of rare than 24 hours--as l'>aood as •vour Continental travel- ling, and much more variety." beauty spread b fore UR. The bold bluff headlands " Where do you think of going?" I a ked. of Cape Clear, 1.1](' whole expaTlGe of Roaring Water "I thouaht ~f trvina the district round Baltimore," Bay and its Hundred Isles, and in the distance Mizen O he said, '."1 hear the coast there is finer than any­ Head, the most southerly point of Ireland, were thing you'll see in Cornwall or Devon. 1here's good visible. fishing evervwhere round the rocks, nnd, if 1 rem m­ The roe];;s around 1he Beacon and Sherkin are the bel' rightly' from our choo1 da:,'s, there's plent.v to home of wrasse and pollock weighing 3 to 12 1bs., intere t v~u in the historical line." and many a haPJl." day we spent in a Railin<:\, boat, And s~ a week later we stepp d out of an excitable, towing with rubber eel and swivelled wire, for port Rhrieking liWe train at Baltimore, "the end of the wa,s good. And wh n the weath r was " too wild " world. " outsine, we founrl plenty of ground fish round the Baltimore-a few houses, a couple of shops, a buoy-small plaice, whiting and gurnard. church, it ruined castl and a tiny quay, ne tIed Baltimore has a romantic history. In olden times snugly ",h re the River lIen falls gentl.v into the it was a eelebrnt d sancluary of the Druids, and nem' harbour. "Ye found a comfortable and inexp n ive the village are the remains of a crom1ech of great home in " Caf;t!e House," the onl.v hotel, large and antiquity. In the 16th centur.v it was a lawn of roomy. beautifully. ituated at th foot of the fuinerl overl~okincr considerable imJlortance, carrying on an extensive castle, and :> the harbom'. 157 IRISH TRAVEL. November, 1928. fishing trade with France and Spain. Incidentally, curing sick hOl"es, and entered Castle Haven, one of one of the islands in the harbour is called Spain, the most beuutiful of land-locked bays I have ever and the tiny hamlet upon it " Paris!" seen. Bold cliffs at. the entrance-on the west the But three times was Baltimore sacked and burnt, "Bread and Cheese, " cliff most appropriately and in 1631 the greate, t calamity of all befell it named, on the east the Galleon Point, where in when two galleys manned with 1\loori h pirates landed 1601 the paniards entrenched themselves and bom­ at night, plundered the town, ma sacred mo t of the barded English ves eIs, and where to this day one inhabitants, and took the rest into captivity. .\ can ee the remains of their oven and their burial graphic description of thi, tragedy is given by Thomas ground. Davis in his poem "Th Sack of Baltimore." It Mid,,'ay up the harbour, upon the rising hill, standi, never recovered from he village of Ca. tle- this shoek, and the townsh nd-a verit­ erstwhile thriving able" .leep.\' hollow, " town is now but a delightfull.\· old-world tiny village, eking out and piduresque in its a meagre living by wealth of sub-tropical salting herrings and vegetation. H ere is sending the 1Yl t 0 the home of Edith America. Somerville, the well­ 'Vi) paid one day ~l known Iric;h nov ·list, visit to the Baltimore ,1Ud in th churcl1\"nrd School of Pi heries, lies her friend anci col­ founded i n 1 8 4 8 . lt1borator, ":Martin Her e 'Some 120 Ho,s " (:'lis5 ::\'Iartin Ol'phan lads occupy of R08s). Photo] f:nll'(/ncc to BalliJJ101·c. lI.T..~. themselves after class- :\fan v of the beau- room hours in making their OIl'n clothing, school tiful tree-sheltered house.;, the homes ~f Il'i h gentry, furniture, and fishing nets, running thc·ir O\\'n farll} , are let during the summer month, to visitor;; for the and building boats, Oil\(' of whieh ha\'(' bC'l'OlllC quite fishing and shooting. famous. '1 he old Castle, in part of which Dean S\\'ift i" said to have written hi famou poem on the distrid, " There's an,Y amount 0 pollock bein' cot off " C,lrberiae Rupes," tands upon a gmss.\' slope, at Castle Haven," said the skipper of a fjo';;hing boat tbat the foot of which the modern castle, the seat of the had put in at Baltimore; so at eventide, when he sct 'l'ownsends, has been built. The present o\\'ner, Mr. out east, he carried two passengers aboard. ;'laurice Towllsend, i transforming' it into ,1 com­ \Ve ailed along by eraggy cliffs, pa t Lough HYDe, fortable hotel for visitor. The grounds, 400 acre, a salt-water lake of great beauty, with a \Yonderful lie all along the harbour, and afford delightful views legend about a wicked king named Labbra, rich as throu~h wooded gh1des across the \\"ater to the ruins Midas, who had of Castle Rahine " two ears of an on the opposite llJ, upon his shore. head, " and a Thc uppcr end hidden tre'lsure. of t.he h,lrbour is At 10\\' tide, visi­ singularly beauti­ tor;; deligh l in ful-a miniaturc ., shooting t h c Killarney. Across Rapid. ," where the harbour, the \\'a ters of the about 1 mile in­ In kc ru'\h through hnd, lies Lough a narrow ('reek Cluhir, \\'ith the wit h shelving remain;; of an bottom, do\\'n to ancient ca f> tie the sea below. built, b\- ,1 magi­ \Vc r ass (' d cian, Ivor, who .. ']' h e RL:I!:~s" JlOlY (1\\,]]1' under and Horse the lake. The in­ Island, 1';0 h'1bit.ant.s of the callc(l because its district "till sce, rich pasture has eve l' y seventh lr.T..~. year, his magic the \" i l' t 11 c of Photo] 58 l'Vovember, 1928. IRiSH TRAVEL, ship, \I'ith all her cour es set and colours flying, Shooting. Hunting and Angling in floating on the bosom of the lake. Good trout fishing is to be had in the lake, and the use of a boat obtained Ireland. on application from the priest of "Gnion Hall, a village quite close to the ,,,ater. WE ha"e before us one of the most entertainina Continuing across the nec.:k of the promontory for and informative book * which has been writte~ about four miles \I'e reached t.he hurbour of Glundore, dealing wit? the sp~rting aspec.:t of Ireland. Anyone another picture~que inlet., 'I'ith its legend, of the contemplatmg Lt hO~ld

--~--- the pa sing of the l::trge estates and through persistant poaching in the troublerl times. Duck, plover and gee 'e, though not so numerous as snipe and wood­ cock. till offer excellent sport, and 1\11'. Seinae dis­ cmses them and their habits from the vantaa; point Se""l1 c""lslc'&l1 lse""'6 C""nRuls-""n-'Pilcu ""piS c.i. se of wide experience. 0 SU1'Ot:e 1 115""11. '00 Uilll-""n'''''ILt, t:i111p""l t:Rl mile ""11. ""n Rega~'ding do~s, '0t:""0 \'J tuul'O 'Oe'l1 \'J""lle m 11, Su t:se""n'''''l111sm \'Ji 1\11'. Seinge has much to say on the t:l$e""nll"" 1 llu comllul'Oe s"" c""lsle'&n ""5uS tU5u'O re pectlve merlts of setters, point.ers and water pilCu 5""c ""on 01'Oce ""5uS mellle",,'O se '" ll'OOt""l11 ~paniels, and he believe that the Iri h water Rpani 1 COlnce '00'11 t:l$e""S 15cOm ull l""e 1 mUdR"'C. 01'06e IS the best companion for wildfowl shooting. "They '0'"" 11.""1 \'J re""R ""11 ';;l$e u5 FI~",culnt: ""m "'5uS e "'5 mellt: make excellent retrieven, for, even on the coldest "'n c01Rce, tU5 se re n'Oe""Ru 50 Rul\'J "'11 pilC"" b06t: day, they are happier in the water t.han out of it, and ""5 cUlt:lm "'s "" $lOb""l""l\'J ""SUS 50 R"'l\'J se lom110C­ no dog is mO,1"e persevering after a ,yotmded duck in t:ulte, n""c mOll.. '00 $""n t:Ruu5 '00 e ""SUS '00 CU""l'O reeds. They are handy and intelligent, nnd their "'11 1:1$C"'RI1.6 ""5 6eMlllul$ se CUl"'lt llU'" e"''O''''l$ '00'11 uS keenness and pluck are beyond all praise." pilC'" "'5US 'O'r.&5 se SU mUlle""nll R011111S 1. 01'Oce 11-"" 'Olul'O SIll l1i cu"'l",t"'s ""11 111Ulte~nl1 <'5 OU

rr i:3 common knowledge t.hat Ireland, as l1 whole, yielded good returns, while the migratory annual visi­ possesses immense potentialities for gl1me and tations of snipe l1nd woodcock continue to be most I the sport which game affords, not only from its sati factory. Partridge, ;the game bird most fre­ extensive boglands, mountains and lakes, as well as quently on farm lands, is scarcer thl1n in former years the climate, which is so favourable for breeding pur­ owing to the fact that so mu('h till,lgc land has gone pose" and the opportunities it, afford" for the succe ­ out of cultivation, but in \\'hatever counties tillage is ful natural preservation of all kinds of game. It is still considerably carried out partridge will always be equally common knowledge, unfortunately, that Irish found. farmers, generally, who have become owners of their The multiplication of couning clubs throughout the own lands through the Land Purchase Acts and now country has led to a much greater preservation and own t.he sporting rights, have not a yet realised the increase of hares than heretofore, and incidentall,V the great revenue they possess from a source which it coursing clubs have aided the protection of other "'ould not cost them a penny t.o cultivate, although classes of game in the di tricts where such clubs the Irish Game Protection A ociation-a voluntarily exist. self-supporting body cornpo ed of sportsmen drawn The Congested DisLrid3 Board, during the years it from every class-have been endeavouring for the past operated in the \,estern seaboard counties from 30 years to educl1te them on this important subject, Donegal to Cork, acquired a good many excellent and that entirely for their own benefit. sporting estate , and have, as far as possible, pre­ The sy,sLem of the land purchase on e tates h~s in served game, that work having since been transferred the matter of the game been conducted without any to the Irish Land Commi3 ion, who let such shootings organised attempt on the part of the State l1t uni­ with the shooting lodges to sportsmen; ml1ny private formitv of trel1tment or serious concern for the pre­ owners also let their shootings, l1nd it may be stated servation of ~he species of game to be found in without eXl1ggeration that the rents of Irish shootings, Ireland. Ml1ny of the game laws operating in Ire­ affording excellent sport, can be ohtained at verv land are unsuitl1ble to modern existing conditions, much le3ser rents than whl1t could be , imilarl v rented and the efforts 'of the Irish Game Protection Associa­ in any part of Great Britain. . tion in collaborntion with t.he Irish Coursing Clubs It is pleasant to be able to record the fact that in (the latter Association being chiefly concerned with the season 1927 the number of portsmen visiting the preservation of hares) to influence the Free State Ireland from Great Britain for the purpose of shooting Government to pass l1 new Act which would codify exi~ ting 'statutes, together with th introduction of more than doubled that of the year 1920, the Free needed amendments, is now within measurable diR­ State Government affording such vi itors every in­ tance of reali ation. and it may be observed that the ducement, and simplifying the procedure for the illl­ Northern Ireland Government have also promised to port,tion of firearms and t.he acquirement of the pass similar legislation in re pect of the Six orthern neee sary firearm certificate. Counties. There i3 every reason to believe that under the The rearinO' of phea. l1nt"-owing to so many of the fo tering care of the Free State Government-who large land owners owning demesnes 1 aving the recogni e t.hat in the game of th country it pos esse;; ('ountr,\' during the troublous times-bas greatly a mo I. valuable national H. set-that the outlook for diminished; but, on the other hand, the grou e the •hooting sportsmen ]S deeidcdl,v bright and moors, embracing both mountl1ins and bogs, have attractive. 60 Novelllber, 1923. IR ISH TRAVEL. GAME SEASON, 1928-9. LIST OF SHOOTS.

Kinds of Letting Nearest County. Centre. Area of Shoot. Game. Particulars. Railway Station. Remarks.

CORK C'astletown­ Several thousand Woodcock and Mostly free, except Bantry (3J m.) \Voodeock plentiful. bere. acres. snipe. Adrigole district; (Steamer ser­ terms from Irish vice three days Land Commission, a week). Dublin. Glengarriff Districts adjoining Woodcock and Apply: Mrs. Leigh­ Bantry (lO m.) Glengarriff. snipe. White, Ban try House, Bantry. Macroom 8,000 acres Snipe and wood­ Apply: Williams' Macroom Excellent prospects cock, g l' 0 use Hotel, Macroom. for snipe. Dogs and duck. available free. DONEGAL Ardara Several thousand Grouse, snipe, Landowners make Glenties (5 m.) Snipe and woodcock acres. woodcock, teal, small chaqe for plentiful. mallard, plover, grouse; otherwise . &c. free. Burdoran 1,000 acre3 Grouse, woodcock Apply: A. Lyons,Esq. Bundoran Game plentiful. snipe, pheasant, Solr., Sligo. duck, &c. Burtonport Grouse, snipe, &c. Apply: Irish Land Burtonport Good opportunities Commission, Dublin for sea-fowl and seal shooting also. C-arrick ... 3,000 acres ... Grouse, s nip e , Landowners make KiIlybegs (lO m.) woodcock, duck, small charge. &c. Cionmany 3,000 acres .. , Grouse, wood­ Free Clonmany cock, duck, &c. Creeslough 26,000 acres ... Woodcock, snipe, Apply: The Agent, Creeslough grouse, duck, Ards Estate, Dun­ widgeon, teal. fanaghy. Dungloe ... Radius of 3 miles Snipe, woodcock, Free ... Dungloe from Hotels. duck, &c. Dunfanaghy The Ards and Horn \Y 0 0 d c 0 c k, Apply: Agent, Ards Dunfanaghy Rd. Excellent wood­ Head Estates­ grouse, snipe, Estate, Dunfanaghy cock shoot. 8,000 acres. duck, widgeon, teal, &c. Dunkineely 6,500 acres Woodcock, snipe, By month or season. Dunkineely Excellent snipe duck, teal, plo­ Apply: G. B. Hill, shoot. ver, wild geese, Esq., Hill's Hotel, &c. Dunkineely. Gortahork J ,000 acres Grouse, duck, Free ... Falcarrag-h (3 m.) Dogs can be pro­ snipe, &c. cured locally. Gweedorc 25,000 acrps Snipe, woodcock, Free to visitors at Gweedore Dogs available at duck, plover, Gweedore Hotel, Hotel. wild geese, rock Apply Proprietor. pigeons, &c. GALWAY Carna 60,000 acrps Snipe, woodcock, Free to visitors at Recess Excellent prosppcts. grouse, duck, Mongan's Hotel. plover, teal. wild geese. &c. J.ecnane ... 7,000 acres ... Grouse, wood­ Apply: Miss Mc- Maarn Cross Camp plentiful. s;ock, snipe, &c. Keown, Leenane (12 m.) Hotel. Letter!rack 5,000 acres ... Snipe. grouse, Apply: Mr. Tullock, Clifden (8 m.) duck. plover, Shamballard, Moy­ wild geese, &c. ard, or Miss Henry, Letterfrack. Qughterarct Lough \orrib ... Wild duck, geese. Free ... Qughterard Good prospects. &c. Spiddal ... Several thousand Snipe, grouse, Apply: Mr. Loughew, Galway (5 m.) Dogs can be had acres. woodcock, wild Galway. Owners of from Mr. \Villiam duck, &c. other lands make a Kelly, Spiddal. Grouse, snipe, small charge. WiIliamstown 1,000 acres teal, d u c k, Free ... Ballymoe (6 m.) Game plentiful. partridge, &c. KERRY ... Cahircivpen 40,000 acres Woodcock, snipe, Mostly free Cahirciveen Dogs can be pro­ duck, &c. cured locally.

61 IRISH TUAVEL. Novembe1', 1928.

GAME SEASON, 1928 - 9.-(CONTD.)

Kinds of Letting Nearest County. Centre. Area of Shoot. Game. Particulars. Railway Station. Remarks.

KERRY­ Glenbeigh Several thousand Grouse, snipe, Free Glenbeigh Dogs available at contd. acres. woodcock, Hotel. widgeon, &c. (;Iencar ... 20,000 acres vVoodcock, Free to visitors at Glenbeigh (7 m.) Good prospects for grouse, duck, Glencar Hotel. snipe and wood­ snipe, wild cock. geese, &c. I.istowel ... 5,000 acres Snipe, woodcock, Free Listowel Snipe and woorl­ grouse, duck, cock plentiful. pigeon, &c. Valentia ... 3,000 acres Snipe, woodcock, Free to visitors at Valentia Hrbr. duck, grouse, Royal Hotel. &c. 'Yaterville 60,000 acres vVoodcock, snipe, Free to Hotel Valentia Hrbr. Snipe and wooel­ grouse. duck, visitors, &c. (9 m.) cock plentiful. wild geese, &c. Cahirciveen Dogs available at (ro m.) principal Hotels. MAYO Bangor­ 12,000 acres Grouse, wood­ Apply: Mrs. A. E. Ballina (28 m.' Furnished lodge to Erris. cock, s nip e, (onway, Bangor­ (Daily Bus ser­ let with shoot. plover, duck, Erris. vice). Dogs available. wild geese, &c. Castlebar Several thousand Grouse, snipe, illostly free ... Castlebar ... - acres. ducl<, woodcock partridge, &c. Crossmolina 1,000 acres Grouse, snipe, Free ." ... Ballina (6 m.) Dogs available at or Castle­ duck. plover, Errew Hotel. hill. wild geese, &c. Pontoon or 20,000 acres Snipe,woodcock, Part free, but mostly Foxford ... Good prospects. Foxford. grouse, plover, preserved by Irish mallard, teal, Land Cornmission, widgeon, wild Dublin. geese, &c. WEST­ Mullingar Loughs Ennel, Owel Wild duck, &c. Free l\1uJlingar MEATH. and Derryvarragh WICKLOW Radius of 3 miles Grouse,woodcock Apply: Dept. of For­ Rathdrum Profpects good. from Hotels. snipe, hares, &c. estry, Dublin; J. (8 m.) :So 'vVynne, Esq. Glendalough; H. McLelland, Esq., ID Ely Place, Dublin.

The above list comprises mostly the districts where shooting is free or is free to hotel visitors; but visitors should bear in mind that in some instances the landowners own the sporting rights and may charge a fee, which, however, is usually very small. In many districts, not included in this list, the sporting right~ are vested in t.he Irish Lan~ Commission, who are prepared to let some excellent shoots for the season or on lea e. .\ list. of such shootll1~s to let, WIth particulars of rents, dc.. may be had on application to the Irish Land Commi sion, l.'ppe~ :'\[errIon Street, Duhlll1.

Importation of Sporting Guns into the Irish Free State.

Persons not ordinarily resident in the Irish Free State and When duly completed this form should be returned to the who desire to import a sporting gun or guns must, pursuant to Department oC Justiee at above address, together with the the Firearms .\ct, ]925, obbin a firearms certificate authorisinr( requisite fee of £2, and if the applicant inte'ilds to import a them to be in posses,ion of, to 'arry, Dnd to use firearms. second gun to be used by himself an additional fee of .5 ,_ Those who contemplate a shooting' holiday in any part of only in respect of certificate therefor should be for\\'nrded \\'ith the Irish Free State should therefore (prior to their arrival) the' application. communie~te with thc Senetary, Department of Justice, Upper In due course a firearms eertifieate and importation licenee ~[errion Street, Dublin, who "ill supply a " Form of applic'l' is for\\'arded to the applicant. tion for Firearms Certifieate." The sporting visitor should take the preeaution to carry the The parti ulars required on this form are :-(a) Name and address of applicant. (b Description of gun/s, maker's name, certificate on his pel"on during shooting- expeditions as an number, etc. (c) Quantity of cutricl!res which the applicant officer of the Civic Guards (Irish Police Force) m1Y' at any is likely to use. (d) Place or place'S in the Irish Free State time requcst those in possession of firearms to prod;r<'(' their \\'her the applieant intends to shoot authority. 62 November, 1928. IR 1 S H TRAVEL. A Geraldine's Vain Refuge. The Old Cave of Mitchelstown. 'By 11.. lV. Evans, 'B.L.

OT,\YITHSTANDING that the magnificence of those which "'ere too large, too insignificant, or its concretions aroused the enthusiasm of that unattainable b.\· reason of the lofty altitude at which N u ually matter of fact traveller, Arthur they hung, the roof in ,some places rising to a height Young, in 1777, there m'e not of 80 fe t, while in the eastern t\l'enty people livin\5 in Ireland at chamber it overhangs an acre of the present time who have ever space without any apparent sup­ s en the interior of the beautiful port, the line of stalactite pillars D ,mond's Cave where the not ven giving the illusion of " SU!5'an" Geraldine was cap­ buttresse as they come down, not tured bv his kin. man, the 'White from, the rock beds themselves Knight,' \yho received £1,000 from but from fissures between (or Queen Bess for his not vel',\' enlarged joiuts, as the\' are tech- nepotic s rviees. Tradition sa.vs nicall,\' term d). ' that the outlaws of some 200 The writer hopes that the ac­ .'"ean; later al 0 took refuge there. companyin\5 photo will make it It is indeed impre ~ive to pause apparent that the cavcrn till con­ in the sombre vaults, the deathly tains many calcareous eccentrici­ silence onh, broken bv the weird ties in its vast hans which do not plomb! plo'mb! of the 'wat l' drops deserve to be negl cted, as they as they fall on the surface of sun­ are, by lovel's of the picturesque. less pools, and observe the nume­ The great "Beehive" is a rous autographs of a long since stalagmite cone or" boss " 20 dead and gone g e n era t ion feet high, ,ituated in the great scmtGhed on the dnmp siae walls, ,,"estern cbamber, which in addi­ many 150 year. old, standing out tion to tbi contains man\, otber as clear in the dim candlelight as wonder , cones, minarets, 'calcite­ if inscribed yesterda\'. coated "goms" or stahlgmitc After the di cover.~ of its neigh­ water terrace, and huge fallen bour, the new cave of Mitchels- Photo] Bechivc and Pillar, Old Cat'e. [Author. blocks, one of which must weigh town (which, as a matter of fact. 500 tOM. is seven mile from the town), Desl1l0nd's Cave \\'a The" minaret" is one of a great many clripstone deserted by the sightseer, but unfortunately not by cascades, thirty or forty feet high, at the top uf tLe the destroyer, who came in and smashed off its tal­ awe-inspiring clay hape which constitutes the floor actiLic pendants in such wholesale fashion that now of the great eastern chamber. A slip on this slope few remain in those galleries easy of access except \I'ould be quite likel,v to land one, after a horrible,

Photo] The Paps, Gonel t CQloe. [Author. Photo] Curlain l~lllmnce 10 1'Ollng's Falling ° [Author. 63 [Cont. on pa.l7e 65.] f R ISH TRAVEL. November, 1928.

Photo] A new Pholo of Killol'Y Bay alld the Twelve Bells. [LT.A. Tramping In the West. 13y C. R. P. V.

HIS part of Ireland is well known to the ordi­ The region north of the Killary ha~ a characttlr nary tourist, and its praises have also been quite distinct from that of Connemara. Here are T sung from the fisherman's point of view. no wide stretches of moorland, but the moun­ But it is still far too little known to the more ad­ tain group , steep-sided, stand close together, sepa­ venturous type of tourist who likes to leave the rateJ only by deep and narrow valley. The finest beaten track, and to the hill climber who is only scenery centre round the Pass of Delphi and Dhu properly at home amidst the stern mountain soli­ Lough. Delphi pre3ents a perfect picture of moun­ tudes. For such the district is indeed a paradise, tain, woodland, stream and lake, and the writer containing, as it does, some of the wildest and most knows few lovelier scenes than the view looking up beautiful scenery and some of the finest mountaim in the pass from the direction of the Killan- on a clear all Ireland. sunn." momina. But the sylvan scen;r:v of Delphi The long, narrow sea inlet of the Killary, which extend but a hort di tance, and soon gives place to separates Galway from Mayo, also divides the dis­ the stern landscape around Dhu Lough (" black trict into two well-marked geographical regions. 'Ihe lake' '), a fine ..,heet of water lying between abrupt region south of it is far-famed Connemara, and here and barren mountains. On their west side the Pass the mountain group called the Twelve Bens or of Delphi and Dhu Lough are bounded by the " Pins " is the dominant featu.re. Although but Mweelrea group, which consists of three mountains­ little over 2,000 feet high, the Twelve Ben; form a M\\'eelrea, Benbury, and Benlugmore-all over 2,000 remarkably striking and picturesque elu ter of peaks, feet high. Mweelrea (2,688 feet), the highest moun­ bold in outline and beautiful in colour, rising abruptl." tain in Connaught, i farthest from Dhu Lough, and from country almost at sea level, a spacious region rises majestically from the sea 5hore, guarding the of open moorland, studded with lakes both large and entrance to the Killary " like a great watch-tower." small, which provides for them a noble setting. 'Ihe Its eastern faee is a grand precipice, rising from the highest summit ~3 , 2,395 feet. The loveliest shore of the little Lugaloughan lake right to the sum­ is the second in height, Bencorr, with itR finely mit, RomE' 1,400 feet above, Still grander, however, shaped ridges and sharp ummit, especially if it be i the precipice on the north face of Benlugmore seen from the east, acros the calm ,,-aterc; of Lough (" the mountain of the great hollow"), looking Inaah. Bencollaghduff, perhaps, ha,~ the grande t to\yardc; Dhu Lough. The!'e cliffs drop sheer from precipices. Muckanaght is richest in mountain the narrow crest of the mountain to a depth of per­ plants. Beautiful valleys, such as Glen Inagh and haps 1,500 feet. Yet experts can climb them from Glen Coaghan, give easy access Lo the heart of the base to summit at more than one point. For the !!roup. On the cast the wide vallev which contain!' mountnin walker of !';ome experience the Mweelrl'il ep

.followed and thrilling glimpses into the depths ob­ tained. All Round Ireland Tour. Inland from the head of the Killary lie other moun­ CORRESPONDEN'f writes :-" During the tain mas €IS, such as the quaintly named Devil's past week I have met many people who have Mother and the great plateau of Ben"'ee and Maum­ A just returned after their holida,Ys, and I dis­ trasna. The sides of the latter group possess mag­ covered the interesting fact that a large percentage nificent glacial cirques or " corries " (though probably of them had completed the entire coastal tour of none so grand as the " great hollow" of Benlug­ Ireland by motor: All, without exception, were a~,ay more), and at its southern foot, hidden amongst enthusiastic about what the,Y described as a wonderful the hills lies the beautiful and lonely Lough Nafooe,Y, trip, and had little to complain of regarding hotel or which discharges its waters, through the short Finny road conditions. All agreed that the tour could be River, into great Lough J\lask. completed in leisurely fashion within fourteen or Such are a few of the more outstanding attractions 8ixteen days-the average holiday of the business of the district, surely one of the fine t in the British man-and that by a little preparatory study, the Lsles. 'With the help of a motor car (or even a itinerary can be sub-divided into dail.v runs which will bicycle) this magnificent piece of country can be ex­ get one to a comfortable hotel each evening. But plored from the comfortable Leenane Hotel, on the the most enthu~iastic of all about this coastal tour Killary. Since the destruction of the hotel at ,,,as one of my acquaintances who has walked every Rece s, Leenane is the only place in all this lovely inch of it. He did not of course perform this athleti~ country wh re one can stav in comfort, and, more­ feat in one holiday, but did it in three consecutive over, Recess could never ~ompare ,,·ith it for co~­ summers-\\'alked 'Wicklow, Wexford, Waterford, v nience, bein3' situated on the edge of the mount~1D reO'ion whereas Leenane is ituated at its centre, wIth Cork and Kerry in 192G; Limerick, Clare, Galway, go~d things on every side. All lovers of wild, unspoilt ::\1ayo, Sligo and Donegal in 1927; and Derry, Antrim, counln' \\·ho hare not yet visited Leenane should 0'0 Down, Louth, :.Ieath and Dublin in 1928. The fact there ~t the earliest opportunity. all the more remarkable as ill? friend is close on fifty years of age-but as he says himself " feels no more than t,,·enty."

A Gera/dine's Refuge. (Continuetl) involuntary glissade, in a deep water syphon 100 feel fCORK. below. The curtain also overhangs this slope, facing the HOTEL METROPOLE enlrance of a O'allerv runnin!5 northward, described Finest unlicensed Hotel in Ireland by Arthur Youn~, au'd with his ignature inscribe~ at ELECTRIC ELEVATOR AND ALL MODERN CONVENIENCES the end. The beautiful stalactites ,,-hich at one bme frinO'ed it \\'ere broken off some time about the Free Garage for h~nQ'I'v Inclusive Terms " forties." All these objects are situated in 30 cars. 16/- a day. tbose ~)~rtions of the cave easy of acces~. a~d which Bus meets all trains require no further inconvenience or xerbon ID travel­ T£ltgraml: Phon.: A linO' lhrou""h them than an occasional scramble over .. Hotel MetTopole. Cork." 800 (3 lines). ,// fallen bloc]{s and the exerc'i e of a little caulion in treadin!5 the clay slope. . The cave entr~nce has a drop of 20 feet. which has to be negobated by a ID'R VE YOURSELF HIRE SERVICE' ladder tbat can be procured from Pat Mulcah,\', the WE HAVE TWO SEATERS. TOURERS AND SALOONS FOR HIRE ON THE .. DRIVE YOURSELF" PRINCIPLE. lessee of the adjoining tOUl'i t cave. The accompany­ Any period from 12 Hour. to 3 Months. • Rates from ;£; 1 17 6 ing photos ,,-ere taken by the \niter during his last Full Tariff on application to ANDHEW J. DOYLE, A.I.M.A.A., vii-;it. in company "'itb J\le "a's. J. W. Pultrc~l. (the FUT. 1'lUU11PH AND BIANCHl AGENT. 51 SOUTH KING STREET, DUBLIN organiser of three succe" fnl xploring expedlbons) .Phone 2721. (Next Gaiety TheatTe). 1"gram.. .. Gears." and G. C. J\1itchell, both of the Derb., hire Penine Club.

If you are interested in Alpine and Herbaceous Plants, SHOOTING Roses, Seed Potatoes, Hand made Lingerie, fine em­ For Guns, Ammunition and Gun Repail'!'l by broidery Work and Crochet, Donegal Tweed and hand knit Skilled Workmen Stockings, alsoWheelbarrows, Wheelstuff and Horse Shoes call at Lissadell off the Sligo Bundoran road Monday till M. GARNETT, Saturday morning. Petrol pump and repair shop for Crampton Court (opposite Dublin Castle) Dame St., motors. Manager, Lissadell, Sligo. DUBLIN. 65 lH1SH TRAVEL. November, 1928. In the Donegal Highlands.

(1'11e Dunfanaghy District) By Edward Doherty.

:Cl FANAGHY is At the eastern point of the promontory is seen th~ f"st becoming one roof of a monster sea caV0 in which there" is a remark­ n of the most popu­ able orifice, opcn to the surface above. In times of lar seaside resorts in 'Iir­ storm, the waves dashing into the cave leap upwards conaill Lccau e of its excel- with great force, causing an explosion like a cannon's 1 e n I. bathing roar, with which the ail' is made to tremble ominously, and f ish i n ~ and is often heard at a great distance. accommodation. Of late years every effort is being A walk of two miles on the Letterkcnny road leads made to cater for the wants of the tourist. In addi­ to "Ards," which, with its extensive woods and tion to the two old-established hotels (Hogg's and adjacent farm, is one of the most remarkable places Stenett's) a third (McGinley's) has been built and in the orth of Ireland. Its history is as follows:­ equipped in the most modern style ov",rlooking the After the Elizabethan war, and the defeat of 0 'Don­ beautiful Bay of Sheephaven. Just outside the town nell, an English soldier of fortune in 1603 named at a place called Faugher a whole tcrrace of boarding­ John vVray got 1,000 acres at Cornagilla, near Letter­ houses has been provided for those who prefer privata kenny, to which was soon added Castle vVray, a grand accommodation, and to judge by the recorded experi­ slope on the Swilly. John Wray, Lord of Cornagilla ence of the celebrated writer, Mr. Hilaire Belloc, and Castle Wray, marricd the daughter of Mr. Samp­ who spent an enjoyable holiday in onc of them, he son, the then owner of the Dunfanaghy settlement, found creature comforts and a local social charm who was also an English adventurer. vVith her came which were regretfully absent in more pretentious possession of " Ards, " where, in the centre of one of ~~~. .. the most smilina scenes of nature, he had a noble resi­ The famous promontory of Horn R ad IS dll"tnnt dence erected ;n a sunnv bank of Sheephaven Bay. about three miles from Dunfanaghy. John "\Vray passed a long and happy life here. The In 1700 a Captain Charles Stewart, of old Scottish second son, Humphrey, was the father of the famous blood, having the motto" Avant Darnley " engraved Master of Ards (old William Wray) , who for many a upon his seal, happened to come into these parts. year presided over that enchanting principality, in He was so taken with the peninsula of Horn Head fcudal state, wielding a sceptre more powerful than that h purchased it on the spot for a Mr. Sampson. that of many a crowned head in Europe at the time. He built the present Horn Head House,. where the Re married the sister of Sir Henry Hamilton, and family lived until recently in the full enjoyment of was connected by degrees of relationship with nearly their ancient lineage. all the " planted" families in Donegal and neigh­ The Rev. Cresar Otway, after touring Ireland, bouring counties. To these he dispensed hospitality left a lively sketch of Horn Head :-" Did Shake­ with regal splendour, so that covers for twenty guestiJ. speare see these enormo~s battlements .0£ Irelan~? were always laid in the diningroom, and twenty stalls Dover Cliff, of which he gIves such a subhme descnp­ always reserved in the stables for th it' horses. tion, is perhaps magnified in the imagery of the The host, from his lawn, 14 miles distant, watched poet, but certainly I conceive Born Head comes up through a powerful telescope the procession descend­ m~re to his representation. othing indeed could be inCY the mountain on the At'ds side, and seeing it safely astonishing than the whole scene; there was. a mlst o landed below, be ordered his little army of servants hanaina over the Atlantiu that gave a mystenousness o 0 1 to prepare the dinner. Thus, to borrow a phrase from to its magnificence, like the way into the eterna Chaucer, the home of the Master of Ards " snowed world-shadows, clouds, and darkness rested upon of mete and drink," and the enormous expenditure it; there was no wind, it was a perfect calm, and yct be<>an to be felt. Financial ruin, long threatening, the roll of the waves, and the roar of the tides, as ca~e at last, and the proud Master of Ards died in they rushed and rolled amidst the caverned cliffs, France, poor, unfriended, and forgotten. His beauti­ communicated an awful grandeUl' to the whole scene. ful home, with its broad acr s, was sold to Mr. Alex­ It was the moan of suffering endurance under the ander Stewart, brother of the Marquis of London­ ceaseless exertion of the Atlantic. ow, in the midst clerry, from whom it descended to the present owner. of July, it was a scene pregnant with grandeur; it who is still a Stewart. was also one teeming with life." 66 IRISH TRAVEL. Novembe1', 1928.

The Irish Tourist Association. AT HOME AND ABROAD.

\Ve only regret that there are not avail­ ways for bringing about improvements, MEETINGS. able printed copies of the, Bundo:an and it will generally be found that con­ In the absence of a meeting of the Committee's reports for the mformabon sultation beforehand with the LT.A, will Executive durin" the month under re­ of other resort·. This is not a survey evoke information as to the casiest way. view we shall av~il of the Editor's indul­ of all such committee. Our examples Wit.h a central organisation to sugge t, gence to refer briefly to om~ out tand­ are taken nlPrely for illustration. \\'e ad\'1 e and support them, local cmu­ in" items of interest and Importance. would only add to. them a refere~lce to mittees will gain by the cumulative ex­ perienc~ TI7e policy of the LT.A. is broadly ex­ the special comll'uttee formed III Co. of one another. Their publicity pressed -as oroanisation at home ~nd Mayo for the recepiton, of ,A~eric;1ll work wIll be kept up to a standard-and publicity abroad, to attract and sabsfy visitors to the CroaO'hpatrlck PJlgrlmage. perhaps down to a price also-their or­ visitors to Ireland. Of both bran 'hes This was a county ~ommittee, organi ed ganisation work will be along the most there are some aspects which de erve for a special purpo e, which achieved economic and expeditious lines, and the more attention from interested citizens that purpo e after much hard work and result of such organi ation in the form in all parts of Ireland. careful preparation. of publicity material and of improved s.e:vice (which are the best form of pub­ ORGANISE LOCAL COMMITTEES. WHY WE WANT COMMITTBES. hClh) wdl be made better known to the public, for whom they arc eaterinO' It is unfai r to expect that a live na­ The work of local committees need not Organise and combinc. ' ,.' tional association, no matter how repre­ be, indeed it sometimes cannot be, spec­ sentative, can embrace in its programme tacular, They should collect and llI~ke PUBLICIT1' ABROAD, all the hundred and one items of local a vailable for the fullest po sible publtc~­ organisation work neces :Hy for the tion detailed information about the,r To ensure a mlllUTIUm standard of satisfactory reception and treatment of resorts, 'A strong local commit!ee can quality with the maximum value of effect visitors. In every department there is aO'itate with the responsible publtc body it is essential that publicity for the at­ an urgent need for more local co-opera­ f~r improved amenities in its district, traction of visitors should be operated a~ tion, since local needs increase with the for up-to-date systems of w.ater su~ply, as fa; po sible through one central influx of visitors and with the discovery drainage, lighting and cle~mng ervlces. orgamsatJon, No other can ensure that of the particular requirements of such It should collate and publIsh the names the .best and only the best distribution med~a vi itors. The only Irish resorts which and addresses of all residents ~n its dis­ are availed of, The distribution ,hter~ture a~ld enjoyed a fni l' share of the increased trict who cater for the entertamment of o,f the placing of adver­ ~ts traffic of 192 were those in which the visitors, and it should. state in print the bSlllg ,'!' all forms is a technical national work of the central bodY was charges for all such Items as accommo­ p;oposlbon. "ears of expcrience have backed up by the more debiled a'ld less dation, meals and amusements. There gIven t.o the LT.A. a mass of information conspicuou hut no less important work hould be definite tandard charges, on vanous media colbted ;rom time to of local tourist cmnmittees. ,\ few ex­ ~fT time and from innumerable ourccs, and \'Uryin!! perhaps for " seas?n " and " o~ amples will emphasise this. Killarney season" periods, but defimtely stated In checked subsequen.tly by an experi­ suffered from a few glaring cases of mental perIOd of experience in e3ch case, print, 0 that no suspi~ion. of indivi~ual unfair trentment of visitors. The effect If you have a hundred or a hundred victimis'1tion could eXist m the mmds thm~sand miQ"ht have been disastrous if the ener­ of any visitors. American and British leaflets to distribute this infor­ I'"etic local committee had not stepped in. visitor's must be given no rea on to fear ?latJon is equally desirahle, Individual By the stern application of cor>ection Illterests should before und rtakinO' any or susnN't that they will be faced with a :c.ntr~1 and exposure they reassured KilIarney's special set of prices because of the pecu­ distribution consult with the would-he gllests, 'and the adverse effect liariti('s of their accent or the quantity body, They should also eo-opernte to of short-si!!hten individual actions were of their luggage. make . ~ur own publicity more effective more than balanced by thl' stron~ ex­ A gain, a 101''11 committee can orp-anise by glVlllg us topical information and pression of collective opposition to such ~hotographs actions. and p-ive publicity to local events likely and any other suggestions to interest visitors, Visitors want more lIkely to make our literature more at­ Rosslare in recent years has enjoyed tracti~~ much incrcased husiness. The recog­ than sc('nery, air and sea. They go on .. ",Ve can find a thousand people nised infl'1tion of land values there is a holidays to be entertained, amu ed-even to criticIse Our various I:ooklets to th "'lire indicntion of tll'lt imp~o\'ement. amazed if pos, ible! If amu ements do one who brings forward a practical suO'~ We are emphatically of opinion that it not exist, they should be organised. If gesti,o? for improvement. In outside is in great part due to the' energetic a resort has a successful race meeting in publICIty work co-operate and avail of and proQ"rcssivc outlook of the local a so­ Augu t attracting thousands of extra our help and don't eriticise unless you eiat ion, and th'1t a proportion at least visitors, why will it not try to have som(' think your criticism is helpful. of the new trnfl'c which is heing directed other outshnding event in .July to in­ to Rosshre is at the exnense of its older H'II.12' WE WANT. rival, Tramore, which has no per­ crease its popularity in that month also? end us on notes regarding hi,torical manent committee to look after its If visitors want to dance. see to it that facts, scenic attractions, dates of im­ intercsts. they have the facilities for doing so in C'omfort. If the roads leading to your portant events and fixtures. Suggestions Skerries onened the season with a resort are incurring the maledictions of for tours in your district! st·ong committee to look after its needs, motorists be ready to tell your County Secure for us good photograph illus­ and we hear that the results amph' Council '0 and have the wei!l;ht of a trating any of the above subjects. See justifv the trouble and expel,se involved. representative committee behind you. to the formation of a committee in Your Greystones has had its committee for resort to undertake the above work -and some years pa t and can show ample COMBINED EFFORT. to brin~ about improvements in the evid nce of good work accomplished. A local committee to be effective amenities of the district, Bundoran ha probably the oldest of all \Ve shall be prepared to help all we our local committees. ",Ve have referred should ensure the fullest co-operation can! to it in carlier issues of this journal. with tlIe central body. Ther are many 67 IRISH TRAVEl.. November, 1928.

Mellifont Abbey. By H. T. Wright.

HRISTIANITY fir3t entered Ireland through font, whose abbots sat in the early Irish Parliaments the sacred waters of the Boyne. On the Hill \\"ith the rank of an Earl, and whose civic jurisdiction C of Slane, within sight of this classic river, and power were very considerable in those days. The St. Patrick lit the mystic flame of faith which was to conquest of Ireland by the Anglo·.!. ormans, however, spread through all the land; and here grew up on the brought troubles to the Abbots of Mellifont, who borders of the Boyne some of the most renowned found themselves in constant dispute with the new monastic institutions and chooh of Christian philo- rulers of the land. Gradually their privileges were sophy "'hich Europe has cver known. . restrained, their powers reduced, and their property Chief among those seats of piety and learning were seized, until finally, in 1539, the royal edict of sup. ::\Iellifollt Abbey-now in ruins-situated close to pression closed the doors of the famous abbey for Slalle in the romantic valley which is watered by the ever more. little Mattock stream, as it winds itG way to join the The hi'3tor,V of Mellifont did not, howev·r, end with Boyne. '1'he site of this historic Abbey was chosen its suppression. In 15BG the abbey and its extensive by St. ~Ialach.r, Archbishop of Armagh, in compli­ pos es ions were I a ed by Queen Elizabeth to Sir ance with the wishes of t. Bernard, Abbot of the Edward Moore, whose son, ir Garret---and the fir t Cistercian Monastery at Clairvaux, where Malachy Lord Moore-inherited it, and converted the existing had sent somc of his novice:; to complete their mis­ building:; with additions, into a forti ned castle. sionary training. The site selected by the Archbi hop Inside its walls the Lord Deputy J\Iountjoy received was readily granted by Donagh 0 'Carroll, Prince of the submi sion of Hugh 0'... eill, ]~rince of l'lster' Oriel, "'ho became ai, well a munificent patron of the and here the historic treaty known as the Articles of ::\Ionastery, the building of which, having commenced J\IeUifont \\"ere signed, which purported to give re­ in 1142, wa soon completed after the plan of the ligious freedom to the Catholics of Ireland, but which parent Abbey of St. Bernard at Clairvaux. In 1157 in realit,v the treat,\· did not do. .\gain in 16-U when a great synod was held within the walls of Mellifont Catholic Ireland took up arms in defence of religious \"hen the church \\'a8 consecrated in the presence of liberty, the abb ,\" \\'a fortified agaimt the Irish, and seventeen bi hops and the High King of Ireland, Lord ~Ioore, who sought to hold pos. ession, was accompanied by the princes of the land; and thus driven out by a section of Sir Phelim 0 'NeiJl 's armv commenced the work of the Irish Cistercian Monks, ,,,hil proceeding on their ,,,a.v to the siege of Drog­ ,,,ho were destined to shine in subsequent ecclesias­ heda. Lord ~Ioore, however, SOOI1 lecovered posses. tical history. sion, and ::\Iellifont continued to be the residence of hi~ The mode of life followed by the Iri,h Cistercians descendant., the Enrl" of Drogheda, until about is thus described by Dr. Heal.V:- 1720, when they inherited and went to r side at Moore .\bbey, near J\Ionasterevan, now the Irish " The community produced everything that ,,,as home of the "'orld-famous singer, John Connt J\IcCor­ needed for itself. They had food-ample food-from mack. their own fields, gardens and orchards. The.v had Since that time ~Iellifont was allowed to fall into fi h from their own streams. They had wool for their dec<.v, and the hand of time has found a l' ady help­ O\\'n habits from their own heep; they spun, ,,,ove mate in a certain vandal who, having settl~d here and 'Vl'ought it themselves, for the.v were their own over a hundred :veal'S ago, proceeded to build an tailof3 and sllOema1{ers. They had their own mills; unsightl.v mill with the stones which he tore from the they ground their own corn and they baked their own bosom of th once handsome church. bread; they brewed their own beer, and they got their The existing ruins comist chiefly of the Lavabo and own wine so far as they needed it, from their own the Chapter House, the former an octagonal building houses in France; they had their own fuel, peat and in the T orman . t,vle, and the latter a beautiful con. wood, and oils for the lamps. Moreover, every abbey ception of the late decorated period of Gothic archi­ had its own school for the younger members of the tecture. The foundations of the original buildincys community. The youth of the neighbourhood were w re unearthed a few ~-ears ago by the Board ~f also admitted to these monastic school., and received \Yorks, in "'hose custody they were previou ly vested, such education as they needed. And ... the monas­ nnd were found to extend into an adjoining garden. tery had a technical school as well as a literary nreflll excavation has laid bare many fragments school, and above all, it was an agricultural school for ,,'hich will give the visitor an idea of the extent of the the country all round." church, which authorities a 'Sert must have been 150 The Plantagenet Kings-Henry n., John and feet in length, jndging by the massive pedestnls Henry IlL-granted charters to the Abbe.\' of Melli- whi<:h supported the arches in th nave. 68 November, 1928. I RI S H TRAVEL.

you can bring away no HELY'S more lovely souvenir of Ireland's capital than a length The leading Irish Stationers and Printers. of Atkinsons' Irish Poplin or one of the beautiful articles into which it is made. Stationery. Visiting Cards,

T ravelling Goods. Picture Postcards. ATKINSONS Flasks, Albums of Views, IRISH POPLIN Fount Pens, Angling Requisites, TIES. HANDBAGS. Golf Clubs. Photo Albums. SCARVES. HATS AND COATS. Courtesy and Service. RICHARD ATKINSON & CO., College Green. Dublin. ESTD. 1820. .IItkinsons' Irish Poplin Ties are sold b:9 tood oul/iltus el.'u3UJhere. Dame Street, DUBLIN. U.S.A. Representative-Chas. E. Warner. 210 Fifth Avenue. New York.

Sailings and Rates from U.S.A. & Canada to Ireland.

Date RATES of From To Operating Co. Steamer I Tourist Departure 1st Cabin 2nd 3rd " 3rd Nov. 2nd Montreal ... Belfast Canadian Pacific Duchess of 157.00 107.50 Bedford 3rd New York ... Cobh Cunard Carinthia 207.50 140·00 Samaria ... 205.00 $140·00 * White Star Celtic 107·50 Hamburg Amerika Cleveland 105.00 7:J United States Lines President Roosevelt 8th Hamburg Amerika Westphalia 140.00 8th North German Lloycl Muenchen 145.00 105.00 * lOth Cunard Scythia ... 152.50 107.50 White Star ... Baltic 152·50 107·50 16th Montreal Belfast Canadian Pacific Duchess of 145.00 107.50 Atholl .. 17th New York ... Cobh Cunard Carinthia 207.50 $140'OU * White Star Cedric 152.[;0 107·50 ., 22nd North German Lloyd Dresden ... 145.00 103.50 , 24th Cunard Laconia ... 152.50 107.50 ., 24th White Star ... Adriatic ... .155·00 107·50 ., 27th Hamburg Amerika Thuringia 140 00 ., 28th Montreal Belfast Canadian Pacific Rly.... Minnedosa 145.00 102.50

.. Calling at Boston next day. (jU IRISH TRAVEL. November, 1928.

W'I " 'I ! 11

There are TWO ROUTES Our Travelling Hint! to The ocean traveller who has made many Atlantic crossings, and who knows what"service" ENGLAND really is, travels by the ROSSLARE and FISHGUARD HAMBURG-AMERIKA llNIE DUBLIN and HOLYHEAD (DUN LAOGHAIRE) knowing he will obtain that high standard of comfort and enjoy By whichever route you travel you that sense of well~being. the are sure of a fast, comfortable provision of which has earned journey by the modern steamers for the Company its world~ of the G. W. and LMS Railways. wide reputation 0 f g i v i n g Luxurious express trains connect the Ports of both FISHGUARD "A SERVICE UNSURPASSED" and HOLYHEAD with all the Our travelling hint to those important centres of population who do not yet know what and industry and the Holiday " Hapag" stands for, is to travel Resorts of Great Britain. The by this Line and learn why the trains of the Great Southern discriminating voyager does so. Railway Company connect with the Steamers at Rosslare and ASK YOU R LOCAL AGENT! Kingstown. Before booking for America, ask the local Steamship Agent about the special facilitiesto be obtained Il urtrated Guider to Holiday CJ?..esorts on [he steamers of the Hamburg~ and mform1tlOn respecting P:1ssenger Amerika Linie: and Goods services on application to G W. Rai!way Paddington LOW FARES - EXCELLENT MEALS - COMFORTABLE CABINS-IRISH MATRONS CARRiED-MUSiC-CINEMAS LM S Ra'[way Eustcn ON BOARD-DANCES-CHiLDREN'S FESTIVALS. e'e. Every G.). Railways· DlIblzn faciluy for celebrating Holy Mass.

Cobh (Queenstown) to Halifax and New York THURI~~GIA NO/. 10 I WESTPHALlA Dec. 8 CLEVELAND Nov. 24 I THURINGIA Dec. 22 Cobh to Hamburg CLEVELAND Nov. 12 I THURINGIA Dec. I1 WESTPHALlA Nov. 18 I C:LEVELA1'oD Dec. 17 Apply to WM. H. MULLER &CO. (London) LTD" COSH (Queenstown) or to Principal Passenger Agents PADDINGTON EUSTON v·=~~ """"'''''liiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii_r>

70 November, 1928. IRISH TRAVEL.

LINKS THE THE LLOYD LINE WORLD COBH (Queensto-w-n) to NEW YORK.

5.5. " DRESDEN" Nov. 10th, 1928. 5.5. "STUTTGART Dec. 8th, 1928. jf 5.5. "MUENCHEN " Nov. 24th, .. 5.5. " DRESDEN" Dec. 22nd, HOLIDAY FARES. """" Tourist Third Cabin to New York and return. GALWAY to HALIFAX and NEW YORK FROM £37 to £41 10s. 5.5. "KARLSRUHE " Nov. 20th, 1928. (.According to Steamer and season). COBH to HALIFAX and NEW YORK 5.5 STUTTGARt" Dec. 8th, 1928. REGULAR SAILINGS TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD. COBH to CHERBOURG and BREMEN Irish Matrons carried. Low Fares, Modern Liners, Excellent 5.5. "DRESDEN" 0\'. 2nd, 1928. Food and Cuisine, Spacious Public Rooms, Handsome State­ rooms, Brass and String Bands, Dances, Games, Gymnasia. 5.5. "MUENCHEN" Nov. 26th, Courtesy and Attention to all. Apply Local Al!ents or LIMERICK STEAM SHIP CO. LTD., LIMERICK, GALWAY & COBH. K.A.A ------

WITH U.S.A. & CANADA (From COBH Queenstown) To NEW YORK To BOSTON and NEW YORK CEDRIC Sun., ovember 4 CEDRIC Sun., November 4 ADRIATIC Sun., November 11 CELTIC Sun., ovember 18 CELTIC Sun., November 18 REGINA Sat., Decembe,' 1 BALTIC Sun.. November 25 REGI A Sat. December 1 To QUEBEC and MONTREAL and sailing every Sunday thereafter. MEGA TIC ...... Sun.. 'ovemher 11 Maintaining New Cabin and Tourist Third Cabin Service Third Class passengers also carried in new and improved accommodation Rates ;- Cabin from Tourbt Third Cabin Third Class £30 £22 £1815s. For full pa"lieulars apply to WHITE STAR LINE SCOTT & co. (Queenstown) EDEN QUAY, DUBLIN LTD., COSH, or Local Agents

71 IR 18 H ([,RAVEL. November, 1928.

A CHAIN OF I-IOTELS

CLIFF CASTLE HOTEL, DALKEY, DUBLIN: JURY'S 1l0TEL and co, DUBLIN. COLLEGE GREEN RESTAURANT GRILL ROOM. COFFEE ROOM. Ideally situated. overlooking Dublin Bay. Mild Winter RESTAURANT. TEA LOUNGE. Resort. 7 minutes from Dun Laoghaire (Kingstown) Pier. 20 minutes rail to City. AMERICAN BAR and OYSTER SALOON. Hot and Cold Water and Telephone in every Bedroom. Very Moderate Tariff. Excellent Cuisine. Every Home Comfort, Phone Dalkey 88 'Phone No. 5511. Telegrams: "Jury's Dublin."

Carna, CO. Galway, Mongan's Hotel. Oughterard, CO. Galway, Railway Hotel.

First class Fishing and Shooting. Thou'>and of acres S minutes walk from Lougb Corrib. Bestfree Salmon Fishing in Ireland, of rough shooting. Mountain, River, Lake and Sea. also Trout, Pike and Perch. Golf. Free Garage. Motors for Hire, ::: Free Garage ::: Excellent situation and special terms for winter residents. J. W. i'lfONGAN, Proprietor. E. A, SWEENY, Proprietor,

Under entirely New Mana~ement from 1st January. 19~6. Telephone No. 2438. Telearams-" Union Hotel," Belfast Dublin. NORTH STAR HOTEL op~~~':;\,Sl~~~~·.u. BELFAST. UNION HOTEL, Fully Licensed. 50 Bedrooms. Most Central Position. OMFORT RESTAURANT T I h Family and Commercial, LEANLINESS COFFEE ROOM e2elPIOone CIVILITY SMOKING LOUNGE DONEGALL SQUARE SOUTH. A LA CARTE a.d TABLE d'DOTE MEALS, RESTAURANT OPEN ON SUNDAYS For Tariff. apply Mana~er. Telearoms: "NORSTAR. DUBLIN." MISS OWENS. Proprietress. HARCOURT STREET CARRICK.ON-SHANNON. BUSH HOTEL ·P~4n. HOTEL IVANHOE DUBLIN. .A leU) aoors from Step},en'. Green. An A.A. and R.I.A.C. Appointed Hotel. The "Irish Times" says: CONVENIENT STOP FOR MOTORISTS "The most comfortable and highly recommended un­ DUBLIN to Donegal, Sligo, Mayo. licensed Hotel in Dublin:' From: BELFAST to Mayo, Galway and the South T~/egrams: relep},one: "Sati./iea. 'Dublin." -Garage- Vi.itors 51126. Offices 51461 M. E. McDERMOTT. PROPRIETRESS. LOUGH DERG HOTEL, DUN LAOGHAIRE (late Kingstown), ROSS'S HOTEL DROMINEER, NENAGH.

Fir.t Class Best Position Facing Sea. Near Mail Boat, Station, Pier. Good Rioer and Lake Fishing. Tennis. Boaling Excursions. elc Baths .nd GolF Courses. Central for Motoring. Excellent Cuisine. Electric Light, Free Garage. R.I.A,C" A.A. & R.A,C. Appointments Terms Moderate-Apply Proprietor.

IHlOTJE[,§! §Cl11d

During the year enquirers at the Bureaux of the Irish Tourist Association frequently asked to see the accommodation plan of hotels to which they were going. In most cases such were not available. The Irish Tourist Association invites all hotels in the Free State to send on their accommodation plans, and undertakes to show them to interested enquirers. Dccembcr, 1928. IRISH TRAVEL.

LINKS THE THE LLOYD LINE WORLD COBH (Queenstow-n) to NEW YORK. 5.5 STUTTGART" Dec. 8th. 1928. 5.5. "MUE CHEN " Feb. 2nd, 1929 5.5 DRESDEN" Dec. 22nd. " 5.5 STUTTGART" Feb. 16th, 5.5. "l\TUENCHEN " ]an 5th. 1929. 5 s MUENCHE " Mar. 2nd. 5.5. ,. STUTTGART ]an. 19th, Jf 5.5 DRESDEN" Mar. 43rd, se.~ ""- HOLIDAY FARES. GALWAY to BOSTON and NEW YORK Tourist Third Cabin to New York and return. 5.5 KARLSRUHE " Mar. 11th, 1929. 5.5 KARLSRUHE" Apl. 9th. .. FROM £37 to £41 105. COBH to CANADA (Halifax). (According to Steamer and season). 5.5. "STUTTGART" Dec. 8th, 1928. 5.5 STUTTGART " ]an. 19th. 1929. 5.5 DRESDEN" , Mar. 23rd. REGULAR SAILINGS TO ALL PARTS OF THE COBH to CHERBOURG and BREMEN WORLD. 5.5. "MUENCHEN" Dec. 16th, 1928. Irish Matr01ts carried. Low Fares. Modern Liners, Excellent Food and Cuisine, Spaciolts Public Rooms. Handsome State­ GALW AY to BREMEN. rooms, Brass a1td String Bands. Dances, Games. Gymnasia. 5.5. .. KARLSRUHE" Dec. 14th. 1928. Courtesy and A ttention to all. Apply Local A/!ents or LIMERICK STEAM SHIP CO. LTD., LIMERICK, GALWAY & COBB. K.A.A.

WITH U.S.A. & CANADA (From COSH Queenstown)

To NEW YORK To BOSTON and NEW YORK REGINA Sat., December 1 REGINA Sat.• December 1 CELTIC Sun.. December 16 CELTIC Sun.• December 16 ADRIATIC Sat.• December 29 BALTIC Sun.• December 2J ADRIATIC Sat.• December 29 To HALIFAX, N. S. BALTIC Sun., December 23 Maintaining New Cabin and Tourist Third Cabin Service Third Class passengers also carried in new and improved accommodation Raus:- Cabin from Tourist Third Cabin Third Class £30 £22 £18158. For full particulars apply to WHITE STAR LINE SCOTT & co. (Queenstown) EDEN QUAY, DUBLIN LTD., COBH, or Local Agents

73 IRISH TRAVEL. December, 1928.

TICKETS FOR ALL LONDON THEATRES By arrangement with Messrs. IRELAND ASHTO & MITCHELL and 33 OLD BONp STREET LONDON PIGOTT & CO., LTD. ENGLAND are now prepared to book Seats for any London Theatre and to issue Tickets- for same Two Routes Full pal·ticula1's sent fl'Ce and TJlcall'e Plans DUBLIN and HOLYHEAD (KINGSTOWN) may be inspccted at OU1' Booking Office ROSSLARE and FISHGUARI:

The LM Sand G.W. Companies' routes have long been famous as 112 GRAFTON STREET the principal routes between DUBLIN Ireland and England. The Steamers are equipped with every modern convenience for the comfort of passengers. Fast Expresses connect both the ports 'S HOTELand of Holyhead and Fishguard with JURY Restaurant all the principal centres of popu­ lation, industry, and Holiday COLLEGE GREEN, DUBLIN Resort of Great Britain.

FOR Illustrated Guides to Holiday Cf?!sorts FIRST and information lespecting Passenger and Goods seTYices on application to Comfort, Cuisine and Service LMS Railway Eus/on ELECTRIC LIGHT GRILL ROOM g. W. Railway Paddington ELEVA~roRS RESTAURANT PRIVATE SUITES COFFEE ROOM AMERICA.." BAR I~ GRILL LOU~GE. OYSTER SAr OON HAIRDRESSING SALOON BA.."QUETING ROOMS ORCHESTRA CE~TRAL HEATING HOT A~D COLD WATER AND TELEPHONE IN BEDROOMS. Afternoon Teas a Speciality MOST CENTRALLY SITUATED HOTEL IN DUBLIN Restaurant, Coffee Room and Tea Lounge operl SU1lday Telephone 5511-14 (4 Lines) Branch Exchange. Telegrams: "JURY'S, DUBLIN." For Tariff and full particulars apply to PADDINGTON J. W. :MANNING, Managing Director.

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