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00 Textiles and Textile Production.Indd This pdf of your paper in Textiles and Textile Production in Europe belongs to the publishers Oxbow Books and it is their copyright. As author you are licenced to make up to 50 offprints from it, but beyond that you may not publish it on the World Wide Web until three years from publication (April 2016), unless the site is a limited access intranet (password protected). If you have queries about this please contact the editorial department at Oxbow Books ([email protected]). Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to ad 400 edited by Margarita Gleba and Ulla Mannering ISBN 978-1-84217-463-0 © OXbow BooKS 2012 www.oxbowbooks.com ANCIENT TEXTILES SERIES VOL. 11 CONTENTS Foreword ...............................................................................................................................................................................................v Preface ..................................................................................................................................................................................................vi List of Maps ......................................................................................................................................................................................viii Introduction: Textile Preservation, Analysis and Technology ......................................................................................................1 Margarita Gleba and Ulla Mannering Austria 1. Austria: Bronze and Iron Ages ................................................................................................................................................27 Karina Grömer 2. Austria: Roman Period ..............................................................................................................................................................65 Kordula Gostenčnik Denmark 3. Denmark ......................................................................................................................................................................................91 Ulla Mannering, Margarita Gleba and Marianne Bloch Hansen Germany 4. Germany: Bronze and Pre-Roman Iron Ages .....................................................................................................................122 Susan Möller-Wiering 5. Case Study: The Textiles from the Princely Burial at Eberdingen-Hochdorf, Germany .............................................139 Johanna Banck-Burgess 6. Germany: Roman Iron Age ....................................................................................................................................................153 Susan Möller-Wiering and Julian Subbert Greece 7. Greece ........................................................................................................................................................................................185 †Youlie Spantidaki and Christophe Moulherat Italy 8. Italy: Bronze Age ......................................................................................................................................................................203 Marta Bazzanella 9. Italy: Iron Age ...........................................................................................................................................................................215 Margarita Gleba 10. Case Study: The Textiles from Verucchio, Italy ..................................................................................................................242 Annemarie Stauffer 11. Case Study: The Tablet-Woven Borders of Verucchio ......................................................................................................254 Lise Ræder Knudsen Latvia 12. Latvia ..........................................................................................................................................................................................266 Irita Zeiere Norway 13. Norway .......................................................................................................................................................................................275 Sunniva Halvorsen Poland 14. Poland .........................................................................................................................................................................................293 Jerzy Maik Slovak and Czech Republics 15. Slovak and Czech Republics ...................................................................................................................................................306 Tereza Belanová-Štolcová Spain 16. Spain ...........................................................................................................................................................................................334 Carmen Alfaro Giner Sweden 17. Sweden .......................................................................................................................................................................................349 Mari-Louise Franzén, Amica Sundström, Eva Lundwall and Eva Andersson Strand Switzerland 18. Switzerland: Neolithic Period .................................................................................................................................................367 Fabienne Médard 19. Switzerland: Bronze and Iron Ages .......................................................................................................................................378 Antoinette Rast-Eicher Ukraine 20. Ukraine .......................................................................................................................................................................................399 Margarita Gleba and Tatjana Krupa United Kingdom and Ireland 21. Scotland and Ireland ................................................................................................................................................................428 Elizabeth Wincott Heckett 22. England: Bronze and Iron Ages ............................................................................................................................................444 Dee DeRoche 23. England: Roman Period ..........................................................................................................................................................451 John Peter Wild Index ..................................................................................................................................................................................................457 Foreword Lotte Hedeager and Kristian Kristiansen Over the last 10–15 years, textile studies have their production, distribution and consumption moved from being a specialised niche at the during later prehistory. Compelling new academic periphery towards the centre stage evidence from strontium isotope analyses of of archaeological and historical research. textiles is now for the first time able to trace This book, originating from the Danish the origin of textiles, and the first results from National Research Foundation’s Centre for the well-known Huldremose woman’s dress, Textile Research (CTR) at the SAXO Institute, a bog sacrifice from Denmark, demonstrate University of Copenhagen is a testimony to that some of the materials for clothing and the the sustained and systematic efforts behind woman probably originated outside Denmark. such a development. Furthermore, it is a major New studies of textile technologies are also contribution to the expanding field of textile increasing our understanding of the complexity research, just as it adds yet another publication and sophistication of textile production in to the Oxbow Ancient Textiles Series, which Europe from the Bronze Age onwards, when has opened up the field to the non-specialist. wool production took over as the dominant Beginning with the major synthesis ‘Ancient material, and subsequently changed the animal Textiles: Production, Craft and Society’, which economy towards this new domain. We know took the reader around all important aspects from the famous texts in ancient Anatolia of of textile production and consumption in the how the Old Assyrian caravan trade during the ancient world, as handed down through texts, 19th to 18th centuries BC was organised around iconography and archaeological finds, this most the highly profitable trade in fine textiles, and recent book addresses the archaeological traces it is now becoming increasingly evident that of textile production and consumption during a major shift occured also in Europe, where the Bronze and Iron Ages in Europe. The new wool clothing encultured the Bronze Age overview is systematically organised country body, and created an entirely new economic by country, and each chapter is structured sector that persisted and expanded into the according to the same plan, beginning with Iron Age. chronology and cultural history and then The articles in this book not only provide an moving on to a discussion of the archaeological overview of the evidence, but also summarise evidence of textiles and their production. recent research. The editors and the authors It will be an invaluable guide for the are to be congratulated for presenting such a increasing number of archaeologists who major, systematic endeavour which will serve understand the central role played by textiles, archaeological research in years to come. Preface This book had its genesis in 2007, when textile
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