SIGHTS of the Parish of TÕSTAMAA

2006 Contents

Introduction ...... 3 Lake of Tõhela ...... 22 Church of Tõhela ...... 23 Parish of Tõstamaa — brief Boulders of Alu ...... 23 historical survey ...... 4 Viruna ...... 24 Bog of Nätsi–Võlla ...... 24 Sights of the Parish of Tõstamaa 4 Nature conservation area of Lindi .....4 How to behave in nature ...... 25 Lindi–Tõstamaa road ...... 5 Staying in nature ...... 26 Church of –Kõpu ...... 5 Roads and footpaths ...... 26 Landscapes of cultural heritage ...... 6 Fishing and hunting ...... 27 Manor of Pootsi ...... 7 Littering the nature ...... 27 Lao and Munalaid ...... 8 Everybody’s responsibility ...... 28 Island of Manija aka ...... 8 In brief ...... 28 Kokkõkivi of Manija ...... 9 Island of Sorgu ...... 10 Advice to hikers ...... 29 Sacrificial tree of Päraküla ...... 11 Church of ...... 11 Building ...... 30 Pine tree of Tõrvanõmme ...... 12 Hill of Levaroti ...... 13 Village of Tõstamaa ...... 14 Parish house of Tõstamaa ...... 15 Church of Tõstamaa ...... 15 Reservoir and choir stand ...... 16 Manor and park of Tõstamaa ...... 16 Laagisoo ...... 18 Manor, oaks, and juniper grove of Kastna ...... 18 Church of Kastna ...... 20 Manor and port of ...... 20 Lakes of and Tõhela ...... 21 Lake of Ermistu ...... 22 River of Tõstamaa ...... 22 INTRODUCTION building, which rules and regulations to observe in waste management. Parish of Tõstamaa is rich in its natural As the main part of the visitors journey forms. Protected bog of Nätsi–Võlla, rich along Audru–Tõstamaa–Nurmsi road- in vegetation, is located on the northern way — that is a part of EuroVelo, the border of the parish; nature conservation European cycle route network — the area of Lindi is located on the western sights are presented in a sequence that border. We have here also the larg- starts from entering into the parish on est lakes of Pärnu County, Ermistu and the border of the Parish of Audru, in Tõhela, which are rich in fish and thera- Lindi, and moving onwards towards the peutic mud. One can find here arable border of the Parish of in Vaiste. lands, pristine forests, seaside meadows From Pootsi one can take a turn towards and woodlands, sand drifts are situated port of Munalaid via which connection some kilometres from the shore. The with islands of and Manija takes coastline is divided by coves, peninsulas, place. From Tõstamaa one can turn to forelands, and sand spits. One can find the direction of Tõhela–. here shallows and high shores, fields sown with stones, and some sands too. The booklet is composed basing on infor- Here is inhabited island of Manija, and mation available to the administration uninhabited Sorgu, and numerous islets of the Parish of Tõstamaa. Publication and holms. Many of these can be con- of the booklet was supported by the sidered natural sights. SA Foundation of the Environmental Investment Centre under the program of Residing in the Parish of Tõstamaa we Environmental Awareness. have got accustomed to our living envi- ronment. One has to admit at the same Author of the idea of the booklet and time that in answering more complicated compiler of the project is Raine Viitas, questions we often encounter difficul- the publication is composed by Kristiina ties. Particular intention of this booklet Lepik and Kerli Brandt. Completion of is therefore to inform local people of our the booklet was assisted by Efeliine Liiv natural values and to acquaint them with and Mari Lühiste. Photos by: Toomas our living environment. Mitt, Ülle Tamm, Madis Veskimägi, Toomas Rõhu, Eve Käär, Kristiina Lepik, Hospitality services are developing and and Karin Randmäe. the number of people visiting the par- ish is growing. Introducing the area and its sites is the second objective of this booklet. The third purpose of this booklet is to share with local population, as well as with vacationers and guests, knowledge on how to preserve our common living environment: how to behave oneself in nature, which rules to observe whilst hiking, which rules to follow when

3 Parish of Tõstamaa — brief historical survey SIGHTS OF Region of Tõstamaa was first men- THE tioned, though in more general terms, in the Chronicle of Liivimaa where it was PARISH OF referred to as ‘seaside land’. Although it is told that the word ‘Tõstamaa’ stands TÕSTAMAA for high land that is suitable for farm- ing, according to folk tradition people acquired here living “not from land, but from the sea”. First written notices of the region date back to 1242 when a land disagreement between the Diocese of Saare–Lääne (Ösel–Wiek) and Livonian Order was settled. Upon divid- ing lands the Order was left with 2 par- ishes of that time: Cotze (on territories of Tõhela, Tõstamaa, and Varbla) and Sorwe (on territories of Seliste, Pootsi, and Audru). The parishes were sepa- rated from each other by primeval for- ests of Päraküla. Data on Kastna dates back to as early as 14th century — in connection with building of the monas- tery of Padise. Other regions of the par- ish — Tõhela, Ermistu, Pootsi, Liu, and Värati — were mentioned for the first time in 1534. References to 13 villages that are known nowadays too and to state estate of Tõstamaa (‘Testama’ — in administration district for socage service of the Manor of (in Estonian: vakus), in 1553) are made in a revision letter dating back to the beginning of ’s affiliation to Sweden. Present Parish comprises the village of Tõstamaa and 19 hamlets, including inhabited island of Manilaid (Manija). Larger centres are Tõstamaa, Seliste, Pootsi, Tõhela, and Kastna.

4 Nature conservation area swamp pine grove spreads on edges, mixed pine–birch forest grows in the of Lindi south–western part. Southern part of the swamp is rich in blueberries and cranberries, in autumns plenty of mush- rooms grow here. One can easily move in the swamp, but certainly not damag- ing frail swamp landscape. On the other hand it is prohibited to visit the spit that spreads into the swamp. As for species of flora we may come here across common yew, lesser tway- blade, lady’s–slipper, broad helleborine, Nature conservation area of Lindi, area: heath spotted digitate orchid, fir club 1100 ha, is located alongside Pärnu– moss. Tõstamaa roadway on the borders of Birds are here very unusual because the parishes of Tõstamaa and Audru. birds characteristic both to fogs and to Swamp conservation area of Lindi was seacoast appear here: erne, black stork, formed in 1981. The area was extended lesser spotted eagle, crane, horned in 1999 — four habitats of protected grebe, black grouse, and greenshank. species and swamp of Lindi were merged into one unitary nature conser- There are no dwellings or cultivated vation area — in order to preserve differ- pieces of land in the protection area. ent species of flora and birds, swamp Bog landscape can be enjoyed from communities, and surrounding forests. Lindi to Kõpu. Over 20 different types of forest are rep- Winding road of Lindi–Tõstamaa, resented here. that is included into the list of beautiful The nature conservation area is geo- road sections, runs from the dairy of logically situated in the south–western Lindi to Tõstamaa on the seaside ridge part of Pärnu lowland, in the basin of of an old dune. Near Seliste the dunes NW–SE direction. The swamp of Lindi split into two: the road runs onwards has been formed in the Lagoon of the on the seaside ridge, the second ridge Litorina Sea (development stage of the departs and runs parallel to road, past Baltic 7,5-4 thousand years ago) in the village of Tõstamaa, straight in direction basin that was surrounded by high dune of Kastna. ridge. The swamp collects its nourish- Linear villages Pootsi and Seliste are ing waters from rainfalls and from the located alongside the road. Roadside bourns of Lindi and Künnimaa that fall landscape is valued by beautiful pine into the Livonian Gulf. The nucleus forest, swamp of Lindi, oak alley and of the conservation area is formed by manor assembly of Pootsi, and churches the swamp of Lindi with its tiny pic- in Kõpu and Seliste. In spring high turesque lakelets most of which disap- water period treat for eyes is offered by pear by midsummer. Wet bald swamp fast–flowing streams of Männiku and with silt hollows and single bog–pools Tõrvanõmme which intersect the dune is bounded by carr strip, transition ridge.

5 There are five churches in the Parish of church are also built in the same style. Tõstamaa, one of which is of Lutheran There is a memorial tablet to the first religion (Tõstamaa), remaining four Estonian bishop of Orthodox Church, (Pootsi–Kõpu, Seliste, Tõhela, Kastna) Platon (Paul Kulbusch), who was born are Orthodox ones. in Kõpu. The congregation is function- ing heretofore. Church of Pootsi–Kõpu There are several beautiful landscapes of cultural heritage in the Parish of Tõstamaa. These are primeval semi–nat- ural communities of human origin, first of all woodlands, limestone regions, covered with thin soil and stunted vegetation, meadow hayfields, seaside meadows, but also other hayfields and pastures, where human influence has been limited to hay–making and pastur- ing only. We have both coastal mead- ows and woodlands here that have little by little started to reed and overgrow with bushes. The Holy Trinity Orthodox Church of Costal meadow is an area that Pootsi–Kõpu was completed in 1873; remains in the sphere of influence of the congregation however was estab- sea; the area is floodable by high water lished before the church was built, and has meadow vegetation. As a result already in 1847. Building was based of land rising and former very inten- on standard design of 1871 of archi- sive pasturage several large expanses of tect G. Schell. Several other Orthodoxy coastal meadows have been formed on churches (Church of Uruste in Pärnu the coast of Tõstamaa Parish. Kavaru, County, churches of Ööriku and Leisi in Pootsi, Nuki, Lembra–Kilgi, Värati, and , etc.) have been built accord- Kastna are amongst these coastal mead- ing to the same design. The Church of ows where community is preserved bet- Pootsi–Kõpu is a large imposing build- ter. ing of cruciform ground plan and is quite exceptional in Pärnu County for its architectural solution — the house of God lacks belfry towering on the main entrance. Visitors of the place of wor- ship are welcomed by a cross on top of low slope gable roof of the vestibule. The church is built of quarry–stones and is partly plastered. Decorative cor- ner strips, wide cornice under the roof, and framings of windows and doors are plastered. All this gives the building a baroque touch. Mighty domes of the

6 Cattle breeding and accordingly pas- Pootsi. The house of manor’s governor turing on coastal meadows have been was put in order in 1998 and the school decreased during last decade of the was transferred there. Several economic past century significantly. Due to this buildings of the manor complex are still the Marine Park of the Straight of Kihnu extant and accounted for as cultural started arrangement of restoration of monuments too. The manor complex cattle breeding on coastal areas — in comprises main building, servants’ or order to preserve meadows. Beef cattle manager’s house (present centre of the is pastured mainly for the reason that Marine Park of the Strait of Kihnu and it requires less care, but is at the same village), stable, ruins of greenhouse, time the best restorer of lands that stonewall, windmill, outbuilding–drier. are covered with dead grass and reed. The Manor of Pootsi is surrounded by a Cattle are pastured on coastal meadows park of 4,9 ha area that was taken under of Kavaru, Värati, Manija, and Kastna. nature protection in 1959. The park Bird observation platforms were set up was once very rich in species — one in Kavaru and Värati in the autumn could find here red–leaved beech, grey of 2002 — a view opens from there walnut, weeping elm, European larch, on coastal sea and on greater part of Weimouth pine, North American black coastal meadow. Islands of Manija and lime. As for rarities a variety of box elder Sorgu can be seen as well. that appears in Estonia only in single Ports of Kavaru, , Munalaid, Tölli, habitats grew here too. Unfortunately Värati, and Kastna are situated in the the larger part of interesting species of coastal area. Regular boat connection trees is destroyed by today. with the islands of Kihnu and Manija takes place from the port of Munalaid. In Pootsi, alongside Pärnu–Tõstamaa road, is situated beautiful oak alley. Main buildings of the Marine Park of the Strait of Kihnu and of the Manor of Pootsi are situated in the same place. Manor of Pootsi was founded in the second half of the 16th century. Manor house of classicistic style, that was at Oak alley first one–storied, has undergone sig- nificant changes in connection with rebuilding it into school in 1962 (the building was built by one floor higher). Four gorgeous columns that were built on main stairs to support mansard floor are still in place. In 1962-1997 the mansion housed elementary school of Manor of Pootsi

7 Lao and Munalaid vation tower is set up on the cape of Torila. Through the port of Munalaid connec- There are 9 islands–islets in the Parish tion is held both with islands of Kihnu of Tõstamaa which are under nature and Manija. Ferry boat goes to Kihnu protection: Manilaid, Sorgu, Heinlaid, and regular boat to Manija. Kiveslaid, Anilaid, and four nameless One of the largest staging posts of islets. Islets are covered with grassland waterfowl is located in the low water and stones, some of islets are covered area of the Strait of Kihnu. The Strait with single small trees too. Protection of Kihnu is an area hosting birds and of islets of Tõstamaa Parish aims at pro- the area is considered to be of interna- tecting landscapes and avifauna. tional importance. Large transmigration of waterfowl and terrestrial birds takes place in the area of Lao in autumn. Island of Manija aka Birds which are considered as endan- Manilaid gered in Europe are nesting here and 43 species of birds of Estonian Red Book have been met here. Especially many sea birds are here straight after melting of ice. In addition to sea birds coastal areas of the Straight of Kihnu are impor- tant stopping place for Bewick’s swan, whooper swan, barnacle goose, widg- eon, and goldeneye. Shallows of the Straight of Kihnu are important moult- ing places for mute swan, goldeneye, and cormorant, coastal reed–beds serve the same purposes for ducks, greylag gooses, and cranes. Lao is especially advantageous place for studying autumn migration of raptorial birds, Columbiformes, and Passeriformes. In birds observation sta- tion of Lao over 200 000 birds have been ringed from 1980 to 1999. For those who are interested birds obser- Manija, the second largest island of Pärnu County, after Kihnu, is located in the estuary of the Gulf of Pärnu near the coast of Lao and is separated from the Cape of Torila by a strait of about 1 km width. The island is viewed from the seashore as lengthy and nar- row strip of land with small wood in the middle. Manija is a stony island of 200 ha area, the widest place of the island is 0,5 km, length of the island is

8 4,5 km, and height from the sea level is To improve living conditions of nat- 5,2 m. During big storm water can rise terjacks several low freshwater froggy to such an extent that the island shall ponds are set up. be divided into three parts. Both islands of Manija and Anilaid In written word the island was first are landscape conservation areas from mentioned in 1560: Holm Maunõ / 1991. Throughout times 338 species of Mannõ — as a hayfield and fishermen’s th tracheophytes, 12 of which are under stopping place. During the 19 century protection, have been found here. 81 island was a state government reserve species of birds have been nesting there land and hayfield of the Manor of Pootsi. during last decade. Composition of avi- There was a house of hayfield guard on the island, couple of barns, brier and fauna has changed sharply — number of willow bushes, and no trees at all. In coastal birds has decreased and number 1933, when island of Kihnu became too of brushwood birds has increased. tight for people of Kihnu, 22 families, The lighthouse of Manilaid is built in 79 people in total, moved to island of 1933. The height of the mark on white Manija. Cultural connections between cylindrical ferroconcrete tower is 8 m, these two islands are therefore tight. 9 m from the sea level. The lighthouse Nowadays there are 48 residents and 14 is slightly tilted as a result of the autumn households on the island, in addition to storm of 1967. several summerhouses. Men are tradi- tionally occupied with activities that are connected with sea and women with Kokkõkivi of Manija those that are connected with home. Hospitality services on the island are provided by one tourism farmstead. Culture of Manija and Kihnu is inscribed on the list of World Cultural Heritage of UNESCO from 2003. Natural values of the island consist of habitats of rare plants and coastal mead- ows which are clanging from voices of coastal birds. Sonorous concert of nat- terjacks (in Estonian: kõre) can be heard here in warm nights of May and June. Along the island runs a ridge rich in erratics with a road on it. In the mid- dle of the island, alongside the road is located the biggest boulder of Pärnu County, Kokkõkivi, that is also known under names of Kokakivi, Kotkakivi, Suurkivi, and Liukivi. The stone is under nature protection from 1938. Diameter of the boulder of pyramidal shape above land surface is 15 m, volume: 20 m3, and height: 3,4 m. As the region is age–old nutrition area for ernes, the

9 boulder was once probably a pleasant is also the only place from where right stopping place for birds, from which the inshore can be reached by boat. name derives. Sorgu that was first mentioned around Several folk tales are told in connection the middle of the 16th century carries with this boulder. It is told that the Evil on old charts the name of Sorkholm. One who was seeking for a company Reefs of Sorgu, situated alongside the had once an intention to carry a huge entrance way to the Gulf of Pärnu, are rock to a Spit of Sõrve. He grasped one known to sailors from old times already, rock into his apron and started to walk because many ships have been sunken towards Sõrve. On his way apron strings here. A wooden seamark was erected on burst and the rock fell on the ground. The the island at the time when the port of rock, called Kokakivi, is standing now Pärnu was build, in 1864. In 1904 the on one tiny island that is called Manija mark was replaced by a cylindrical light- house, made of red bricks, the height of and belongs to the Manor of Pootsi. which is 16 m, 19 m from the sea level. At the same time it is known that in old The post of lighthouse keeper was for times sailors used to visit the boulder to the last time occupied by the family of have a meal by the rock, copper coins Haavik. A son of the lighthouse keeper and seal bones have therefore been was born on the island and he is prob- found from there. ably the only man for whose birthplace the island of Sorgu is marked. Summer Island of Sorgu holiday home of the maritime depart- ment was situated in the building of the house of the lighthouse keeper in the middle of 1960’s. Auxiliary buildings of the lighthouse are built of the stones of Sorgu. Granite originating from Sorgu can be found also in old cobblestone pavements and moles of Pärnu. The land southwards from the light- house is covered with bushes of dog rose with pink and red blossoms. When looking leftwards from the house of lighthouse keeper one can see a pretty th Sorgu that is situated on the 30 kilo- jungle; from here dogwood, single juni- metre of Pärnu–Riia seaway is a kind pers, bird sherry trees, and rowan trees of Cinderella in its own way. This is a can be found. Uninhabited Sorgu is one tiny stony islet — natural rockery and of favourite stopping and nesting places paradise of sea birds — surface area: of migratory birds and therefore on the 5 ha, located westwards from Manilaid. island of Sorgu the ban on movement Northern point of the island rises from is established from the 15th of April the sea quite steeply and extends in the until the 1st of July. Journeys to island form of plateau to the lighthouse; there have to be agreed beforehand with the Environmental Service of Pärnu County.

10 Sacrificial tree of Päraküla pleted by monks of Riia. Details of the church were brought by ice rout from In Seliste, on the lands of the farm of Riia in winter and after that the church Killumaa grows an old sacrificial tree. It was built up here. The house of God is an old five–branched lime–tree that th th was erected in 1861 and inaugurated dates back to the 18 -19 century. Two in honour of Holy archbishop Vassilius new trees — of 1 m and 0,6 m diam- the Great in 1864. Local congregation eter — have grown out of the tree by was established in 1847 and functioned today. The lime–tree was taken under until 1987. The sanctuary, in a shape nature protection in 1973. The following of Latin cross in its ground plan, is is told about the genesis of the lime– unsophisticated blockhouse, lined with tree. It is told that in old days trees used boards, ascetic in comparison with to wander from one place to another. Orthodox ecclesiastical architecture of This way 3 limes travelled too. Laces for its times. Above western entrance tow- a “pastel” of one lime unfastened and ers vertically outlined octahedral turret the tree started to fasten them up; this on a quadrangular foundation that is way the lime remained behind others on covered by a small pavilion casque with the lands the farm of Tamme, in former onion–shaped dome. The awning on hamlet of Vihakse. This lime does not the main entrance is supported by col- exist at the present time. The second umns. Interior decoration lacks embel- lime remained on a field of the farm of Killumaa; the third lime remained yet in lishment. The building was overgrown a distance of about 3 kilometres, on a with bushes and soiled and thus the field of the farm of Eeriku. By now the works to put the church in order were last lime is destroyed too. It is also told started in 1998. that under the lime of Killumaa there was a scabby stone with footpaths of Pine tree of Tõrvanõmme animals and children on it. In the hamlet of Tölli, near farm of Tõrvanõmme, grows an 8–branched Church of Seliste pine with knotty stem and quaint Building of wooden St Vassili Orthodox expansible top. The height of the tree is Church of Seliste, aka Seli was com- 14,5 m, diameter of the top is 24 m, and the girth of the tree at the height over 4,5 m is 90 cm. Had the pine this girth at breast–height or at normal height it could be considered to be the thickest pine of Estonia. Yet as the stem starts to branch at the height of 140 cm, its girth is calculated at the height of its thin- nest place or at the height of 90 cm, so that the pine cannot compete for the title of the thickest pine of Estonia. The pine saved farmers from emergency once. The mistress of a household was outdoors with children where they were

11 attacked by a furious bull. Mother father–side family stems from the farm with children escaped and climbed the of Tõrvanõmme. It is told that her scrubby pine. After these events she father, Jakob Tõrv, had left the farm started to pay more attention to the tree before World War II and went to live that had saved them. She found that the to England. He married a Scotchwoman tree deserves to be taken under nature there and a daughter was born in 1944; protection. The woman measured the later on, whilst living in Australia, she tree and sent data to officials of nature became a wife of Rupert Murdoch. protection. The tree was soon taken Older people still remember the times under nature protection. when father of Anna Maria lived in The pine was taken under nature pro- the farm of Tõrvanõmme. Members of tection in 1991. their family were known in the village In connection with the tree a story is as people of great willpower and stingy told that is connected with well–known character. It is thought that this may be Estonian who lives abroad. Former in some way connected with the pine wife of world’s powerful press magnate tree of Tõrvanõmme. Pine, after all, is Rupert Murdoch has been considered to also famous for its ability to grow often be the richest presently living woman up a mighty tree growing persistently of Estonian blood. She is a successful on poor soil. journalist and has published popular novels in English. It is known that her

12 There are eight underground village Tõstamaa River, on the right side, is cemeteries and stone graves in the located a cemetery that was founded Parish of Tõstamaa that date back prob- in 1822. There are 5 graveyards and ably to the 15th-19th centuries: in Seliste cemeteries in the parish: Kõpu, Seliste, alongside Pärnu–Tõstamaa road, on Tõstamaa, Tõhela, and Kastna. the western bank of Männikuoja; in 1 km eastwards from the graveyard is the hamlet of Lõuka, near bus stop of located the highest dune that is covered Võidu on the land unit of Nõmme; in partly with loose sand and called the the hamlet of Kastna on the land unit Hill of Levarot (height of the tree is of Maroga; stone graves near the Manor 28 m from the sea level). Dunes are of Tõstamaa on dunes of Toominga. 3 covered with pinewoods. One can meet stone graves and 1 cemetery are located here blueberry pinewoods as well as in Tõhela. In the course of archaeo- dune, aka heath pinewoods. logical excavations different items have A fire in which 2 ha of pinewoods was been found from underground cem- damaged broke out in the surround- eteries. These items are preserved in ings of Levarot in the summer of 1998. archaeological funds of the Institute of Those who are interested can observe History. Several tombs are covered with here “sequence” of plants’ recovering: woods by now. All of them are under at first birch and oak began to grow, fir state protection. has joined them by now. Planted pine On the southern slope of Tõstamaa– seedlings are gathering strength too. Varbla upland, parallel to Audru– Tõstamaa road, run two dune chains marking location of former coast- line. Straight before village, alongside

13 Two stories are known on how the Hill of Levarot got its name. A wanderer, who was looking for a better place to live, has reached a mound by the end of a day. He adjusted himself to sleep and placed a bag for bread under his head. Waking up in the morning there was not much left from the bread, some crumbs only. “Damned bread rats”, said the wanderer, because he thought that rats had carried the bread away or eaten it. When bog–fields were prepared under supervision of the manor manager Toots sand was carried from the hills of the village. Peasants doing their corvée had their food bags along. They hanged their bags on a tree on the highest hill and left to carry sand. When they got hungry they returned for bags yet there was no sign of the bags. One man got angry and yelled: “Damned bread rats!” Yet these were not rats who had taken the bags but bums of the village. This way the name Levarott was attached to the hill.

14 Village of Tõstamaa 2 shops, café, village hall, Rescue Service (Support Unit of Pärnu County Rescue Tõstamaa is historical parish centre that Service), Road Traffic Administration, th that took its form in the end of the 19 library, health centre, rehabilitation cen- th and in the beginning of the 20 cen- tre, pharmacy, social care house. You tury, around junction of roads which can get acquainted with the sights of led to the church. North–South direc- Tõstamaa whilst walking on the hiking tional road that connects the Manor of path that goes through the village. Tõstamaa with Värati has evolved into The village of Tõstamaa had 619 resi- main street of the village. Besides build- dents by the 1st of January 2006. ings of the inshore hostel of the Manor of Tõstamaa (was located in the present building of the Rescue Service; built in 1870’s), church (1768), and manor complex (1804), amongst older build- ings are also drugstore’s house, made of quarry–stones (1889) (presently par- ish administration), post office, former fire–station, dairy, quondam homes of tradesmen and craftsmen, and building of a shop with a garner (1927), made of bricks made in Tõstamaa and belonging to the Economic Society of Pärnu. At the moment in the village are func- tioning: manor school with 250 school- children, kindergarten with 44 children,

15 Parish house of Tõstamaa was replaced by shingle roof. The stee- ple was an important landmark in the Strait of Kihnu. Present altarpiece and fretwork pul- pit which were made by local master were donated on the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the church. Last organ was inaugurated in 1885. Bell was moulded in Riia in 1861. There are memorial tablets in the church which are dedicated to pastors, to their mis- tresses, and to squire; manor lord’s bench is there too. The building is Parish house is more than 100 years built on quicksand soil and lateral walls old. Number 1889, indicating the year started therefore to sink as soon as in the of building, can be seen in the stone 19th century. Supporting piers were built wall of the building. The building was to avoid possible collapse. The steeple at first one–storied and housed a chem- and front side of the church collapsed ist’s shop which operated, with inter- on Midsummer Eve of 1972 because of vals, until 1944. During World War I digging works of sewerage canal track; the building was used as a stable. A the organ was destroyed too. border guard station has been located in this building too. In the autumn of Restoration works were commenced in 1944 the building housed Soviet military 1983. The church received its present headquarters. Later on second floor was appearance by 2000; spire, cock, and built on the building to accommodate decent watertight roof are still missing. office–workers and young schoolmas- The church has active congregation. ters. Village council and library were situated in the building from the begin- ning of 1950’s. When village councils were changed into parishes, the build- ing became a parish house. Church of Tõstamaa is situated left from the parish house. Present Marian Lutheran Church of Tõstamaa was built of quarry–stones under supervision of master builders of Pärnu in 1763- 1768. Stone walls were plastered and the depiction of multicoloured rustic masonry was painted on outer cor- ners. A plank carrying date 1767 and note “Soli Deo Gloria” (Glory to God Only) has been preserved in the ceiling. Church hall is covered by mirror vault ceiling made of boards; the ceiling was renovated in 1888 and the stone roof

16 Manor and park of Tõstamaa Manor of Tõstamaa, pride of villag- ers, was first mentioned in the mort- gage of 1553. For construction date of the main building is marked 1804. By the end on 1860’s the building was a two–storied stone building with tin roof and arched cellars. The edifice obtained its present post–classicistic appearance in the course of reconstruction works which took place in 1876-1877. Pilasters with Ionic capitals decorate the frontal of the manor house; inside the build- ing quaint architectural details, which date back to 18th and 19th centuries, can be found: elegant steps leading to the main entrance, the room below shell chimney, frescos and ceiling pieces. At one time (1869) the heart of the manor comprised 24 buildings, the group of stable buildings with representative frontal from the 19th century is the most interesting of them. Large dairy farms, mills, and hostels were situated farther; Reservoir and choir stand the manor had over 60 buildings in all. Reservoir, is situated within the borders Stael von Holstein family took the of the village of Tõstamaa, was built on manor into their possession from 1831. the River of Tõstamaa during ameliora- Representative of the third generation tion works in Laagisoo in 1972. Shady of this family was Alexander Stael von place with beautiful nature proved Holstein (1877-1937), famous orientalist, attractive to local people and right after Sanskritist, professor of the University damming up a choir stand and place of Peking. A memorial stone to him for campfire with benches were built has been placed in front of the main there. At first only Midsummer Eve building. A school is functioning in the bonfires were held there, but later other building of the manor from 1921. In the spring–summer actions (fairs, outdoor course of years the old manor house concerts, etc.) were held there more has been repeatedly repaired and recon- and more often too. Present choir stand structed. As a result of capital repair was accomplished in 1991 when folk- that was started in 1997 the appearance lore days (in Estonian: pirand) of Pärnu of the school has changed completely County were held in Tõstamaa. by today. Many works of heritage con- servation have been carried out (more valuable ceiling pieces are restored), yet

17 at the same time the building meets requirements that are presented to a modern school. The manor is under heritage conservation. Park of the Manor of Tõstamaa was founded around the main building of the manor in the beginning of the sec- ond half of the 19th century. Later on the park was expanded in the form of free–shape park to water tower house that was built in 1880. Expansive park Manor of Tõstamaa around the manor is surmounted by an oak which has branchy head (diameter of the head: 23 m). A memorial stone was placed near the oak in 1990 on the occasion of the 300th anniversary (1688- 1988) of public education. The park is divided into halves by a road. The part on the park that is located on the other side of the road resembles forest and offers shady resting places and walking paths. The park has been looked after by schoolchildren of Tõstamaa, several different trees have been planted in addition during last years. The park is both under heritage conservation and under nature protection. School garden is situated in a garden that dates back to manor times and is Ceiling piece of Tõstamaa Manor surrounded by high wall made of quarry (Christmas ring) stones. In the course of times the gar- den has been rearranged several times, reflecting changes in school programs. By now school garden, together with fire place and outdoor classroom, is a working and resting place both for schoolchildren and visitors.

School garden in Manor Park

18 Laagisoo veyor by profession, was a fellow com- batant of C. R. Jakobson and associate chairman of the Agricultural Association of Pärnu; he became a chairman of the Association after Jakobson left. J. Toots passed away in 1919 and rests in graveyard of Tõstamaa.

Manor, oaks, and juniper grove of Kastna Three kilometres from village of Laagisoo and Lake of Ermistu Tõstamaa, in direction to Varbla, signposts show the way to the oaks of Kastna. Ruins of large household Last owner of the Manor of Tõstamaa, buildings and mighty oaks of the park, from 1898, was Alexander Stael von situated before thee oaks of Kastna, Holstein who spent most of his time mark former nucleus of the Manor of abroad. The manor was therefore man- Kastna. aged by an Estonian bailiff, Jakob Toots First notes about the Manor of Kastna (1948-1919), who was actively engaged date back to the middle of the 16th cen- in amelioration and development of cat- tury already. It is known that in Kastna tle breeding. On his initiative Estonian a manor, where representative mansion first arable swamp fields were founded was lacking, was sold (for 400 marks!) here in 1885. Surface of swamp was cut to the city of Pärnu in 1665 already. The by ditches into headlands and water manor was managed by renters who from swamp run into ditches. Sand usually did not stay for long. Last rent- layer, 10 centimetres in thickness, was ers who stayed for longer were Ballods. carried on the headlands in winter, for The only remaining building is former ground to bear a horse. 1000 loads of laundry, later summerhouse of Volmer sand were carried on “bushel lands” that family. Omar Volmer, who was a man of makes 1500 tons per hectare! Land was museums and letter, along with his wife then fertilised with artificial manures Marvi, put the park in order and supple- and lime. Fruitage grew mighty: car- mented it with interesting transplants rots up to 70 cm, oats 1,5 m, and rye of trees and bushes, creating arboretum up to 2,1 m of length, onions thrived that was rich in species and attractive especially well. Thanks to J. Toots vil- too; unfortunately the arboretum is lagers have good quality vegetable gar- overgrown with bushes by today. dens up till now. The first undertaking The territory covers the part of the of co–operative trade in Pärnu County Peninsula of Kastna with its beautiful was held on initiative of Jakob Toots too. A sailer–full of salt was ordered to beach and is located seawards from Agricultural Association from Crimea in the road of Tõstamaa–Varbla. Western 1883 and big decrease of salt price was shore is stony, high junipers have achieved in Pärnu. J. Toots, land sur- grown up on the coast–bank, forming

19 gorgeous juniper grove — juniper grove of Kastna on 5 ha. Coastal meadows are extant partially. In lower places, landwards from coastal bank, coppice wood grows. The eastern coast of the peninsula is lower and tends to over- grow with reed; land surface is shelving and is more open than in the western part of the peninsula. One can enjoy beautiful views that open whilst mov- Oak of Kastna before storm ing on the beach, in the juniper grove of Kastna, as well as on village roads. Most typical representatives of the flora of the juniper grove of Kastna are unpretentious plants which are able to grow on coastal thin shingly soil: juni- per, common barberry, mountain cur- rant, common milkwort, dropwort, hill strawberry, cat’s foot, lyme grass and wavy hair grass, fly orchid, and cocks- Oak of Kastna after storm comb. Three oaks of Kastna are situated The landscape is one of the most valua- westwards from the Manor Park and ble areas both of the Marine Park of the were taken under nature protection in Strait of Kihnu and of Pärnu County. 1938. One of the oaks is the thickest in Pasturing of domestic animals helps to Pärnu County and apparently the old- keep seaside from growing over with est (360 years) too — its girth is 6,25 m reed and bushes. and height 19 m. As a result of thun- der, fire, and fungal diseases a hollow of 5,5 m height and up to 1,2 m width has been formed in the stem of the oak. The hollow was filled with light gravel and sealed in 1995. Two boughs of the oak were broken during storm in January of 2005. Two other oaks are smaller, diameter of these oaks is accordingly 4,4 m and 3,8 m, height: 17,5 m. The oaks of Kastna were traditionally called as Captain’s Oaks because the trees, tow- ering on a bald shore, were good land- marks for sailors in old times. Sheep in Sutirand

20 Church of Kastna ings are and made of yellow bricks too. The congregation was active until 1986. The assets of the church were trans- ported to Vasknarva after the church was closed. The place of worship is presently empty. Indispensable works were carried out in 2004 to stop decay of the church. From time to time con- cert ministrations are arranged here.

Manor and port of Vaiste The borders of the hamlet of Vaiste have changed in the course of times. At present the hamlet of Vaiste belongs to the Parish of Varbla, yet the manor itself is located in the Parish of Tõstamaa. The hamlet is over 300 years old; former St Arsenius Orthodox Church of Kastna name of the hamlet was Lehenda. There was built in 1904 in a style imitating has been a manor, school, mills, large Byzantine architectural style. saw–mill, port, and later on a fish plant People of Kastna countryside, like peo- too in the hamlet. ple of Tõhela, belonged earlier into the In 1661 the Manor of Vaiste was in pos- congregation of Seliste that is located on session of the owner of the Manor of the other side of Tõstamaa. Independent Vana–Varbla and it was a small seaside congregation of Kastna was established manor then. in 1896. A small wooden church was The last main building was built in built in the same year. Stone church got 1880 and it was one–storied at first. ready and was inaugurated on the 25th The income came from forest, sea, and port, but from cattle–breeding and hos- of November 1904. tels too. In comparison with the churches of Two–storied wooden building of the close surrounding the Church of Kastna manor perished after collapse of the was built most lately and resembles the roof in 1970, some economy buildings Church of Tõhela. The entrance of the made of quarry–stones are still extant. building has a pavilion casque with a By the end of the 19th century the manor small onion–cupola campanile on top. had 813 ha of land and three hamlets: Main part of the walls of the sanctuary Nõmmküla, Rammuka, and Vaiste (62 is built of quarry–stones; decorative cor- farms with 1654 ha of land in total). ner strips, cornices, and vigorous zigzag frieze that runs in two horizontal belts During first years of the Republic of are built of yellow bricks of Tõstamaa. Estonia manor’s land was divided Round arched window and door open- between participants of the War of

21 Independence — this way settlement of best ones in Estonia, pikes of 10-12 kg Vaiste was formed. are not rare, perch, crucian, roach, rudd, The biggest employer was lumber- and ablet are common. From imported mill, aka sawmill (1929-1948) that species eel and carp have acclimatised was founded nearby the inlet of Vaiste in the Lake of Ermistu. where there was a good location for a Avifauna is rich in species: greylag port. A two–branched railway, 20 km in goose, crane, common tern, mallard total, connects sawmill with forest. Two and teal, tufted duck, goosander and 20 m long bridges were extended into red–breasted merganser, mute swan (up the sea. Places where former port of to 5 nesting pairs in some years), sedge Vaiste, sawmill, and railway were situ- warbler, great reed warbler, and reed ated can be seen presently as well. bunting. The bog between two lakes is The last ship, aiming at Sweden, left yet one of rare known nesting places of the port in September 1944. ernes in Estonia. The beach of Vaiste is nowadays used as a resting place by tourists who enjoy nature, silence, and privacy.

Lakes of Ermistu and Tõhela In the beginning of Antsülus Lake Stadium (development stage 7 thou- sand years ago) the basin of lakes of Tõhela and Ermistu was a broad strait between islands. Later on, due to falling back of the Great Lake, it transformed into extensive Lagoon of Tõhela. As a result of swamping the lagoon severed into two separate lakes: lakes of Ermistu and Tõhela. The lakes have much com- mon: they are surrounded by swamps and bogs that serve for them as feeding sources, both Lakes have muddy bot- toms. Eastern shores of the lakes are accessible. Sandy shore–strip is suitable for bathing and creates good precondi- tions for resting. The lakes are rich in fish and have therefore become favour- ite lakes just for hobby fishermen. Bream and tench are here allegedly amongst the Fish from the Lake of Ermistu

22 Lake of Ermistu The River of Tõstamaa takes its rise from the Lake of Ermistu and carries its waters into the inlet of Värati (slope: 17 m). On its way to sea the river crosses two chains of dunes. In spite of its shortness (4,28 km) the width and slope of the river are very variable. Fish ladders are built for fish to facilitate their way from sea to lake for spawning, yet the number of water migrants has decreased from year to year.

The lake has been traditionally called Lake of Tõhela Lake of Tõstamaa, Lake of Ermistu (Hermes, Härmesi), and Lake of Manor. Tõhela is one of the most beautiful shallow lakes of Pärnu County and of The lake is the largest in Pärnu County the whole West Estonia too. The lake and is at the same time the largest lake is tenth largest in Estonia, area: 407 ha, in Läänemaa too, and the ninth largest average deepness: 1,3 m, length: 3 km, in Estonia. The area is 480 ha, deepest width: 2 km. The lake is steeply deep- place: 2,9 m, average deepness: 1,3 m. ening and muddy on its western bank; Bottom of the eutrophicate lake is cov- eastern bank is low and has sandy bot- ered by slice of sapropel 5 metres in tom that is suitable for swimming. One thickness. Water is of medium trans- of the most famous crayfish rivers of parency. In the middle of the lake there the region, River of , takes its is one stony islet and in the southwest- origin in the north–western part of the ern part there are many floating peat lake. A fish ladder was built in the head islets. There is a feeble abrasion on the of this river in 2001 in order to main- eastern bank where surface is washed tain the water level of the lake and to away and sandy subsoil and erratics can improve the path for fish. be seen. Here is good opportunity for The lake was a training polygon of swimming. The lake is nourished from Soviet air force for bombing exercises the eastern slope by small brooklets, during post–war time. the River of Tõstamaa flows out of the lake. Ermistu is famous for its thera- peutic mud, aka sapropel that is used by several medical establishments. It is also possible to use sapropel for provid- ing provender addendum for domestic animals and for producing field fertiliser as hydro mass. Otter and mink belong to the lakeside fauna, beavers have car- ried out their activities on the southern shore during last years.

23 Church of Tõhela ple were carried out in 2000 to protect the church from further decay.

Boulders of Alu Moraine agglomerate of Murru–Alu– Köössa (Häidaste), aka Hill of Alu is located eastwards from Tõhela, between Männikuste and Soomra. The mound is 4 km long and 50-100 m wide. In local flat area the ridge, which is 5-6 m higher than surrounding ground, is the most outstanding rise composed of gravel and sand. The Hill of Alu is blankly covered The John the Baptist Orthodox Church with boulders. In the surroundings of of Tõhela is factually located in the Alu and former hamlet of Murru boul- hamlet of Männikuste. Before build- ders cover an area of 5 hectares size (90 ing of their own church orthodoxies of chunks per acre) and these are consid- this area belonged to the congregation ered to be amongst the most remarka- of Seliste, the priest served people of ble ones in Estonia. Animals’ path runs the area at first in the farm of Ansutoa on the edge of the ridge. In autumn, and, from 1873, in the schoolhouse when leaves have fallen from trees and of Tõhela. As there were almost 1200 mossy caps of stones attract attention, orthodoxies in the region (ca 75% of the boulders shall change into some- the population), their own congregation thing mystic indeed — rosy, ruddy, and was founded in 1876. A piece of land greyish–reddish granite boulders attract was bought in 1894 to build a church notice. One of the most gorgeous boul- on it and yet in the same year construc- ders of local stone fields is Piirikivi that tion works were started. The author of is situated on the edge of the Hill of Alu the project is architect A. Edelson. where four stone fences come together. The church is a building of traditional In the northern part of the boulders, at three–part construction that has a stee- Köössa families, genuine stone cellars ple in the west, main body with a hall are situated; former dwelling and loca- tion of a well are recognisable and oaks in the middle, and a chancel in the east. grow there too. The wall of the church, made of care- fully chosen and hewed and cleanly laid Woodlands of the Parish of Tõstamaa which are preserved to the greatest quarry–stones, was supported by yellow extent are located in the hamlet of bricks of Tõstamaa of which the steeple Tõhela, right between the rivers of Kalli was built too. The interior was deco- rated by simple cornices that run under the ceiling, and skimpy neo–classicist paintings. The Church and congrega- tion of Tõhela functioned until 1962. Indispensable repairs of roofs and stee-

24 and Paadrema. Woodland is a natural Bog–field of Nätsi–Järve that has been hayfield where trees and bushes grow formed upon a lake becoming boggy, dispersedly. Woodland has been the is a plain bog where large bog–pools most typical part of farm landscapes for with surrounding hollow bogs appear centuries. Yearly mowing is the basis of and is typical to West Estonia. The woodlands’ existence. We have Viruna bog has steep slopes; thickness of peat and Männikuste woodlands which are bed is over 5 m, maximum: 7 m. The taken care of for years. bog of Nätsi, located in the northern part, has two bog–pools; plain south- Viruna ern part is covered with very extensive In Viruna, where density of popula- wet hollow–lands. Streams of Punaoja tion has been yet historically rare, and Mustoja, which fall into the River was a hunting lodge of the Manor of of Paadrema, take their rise in the bog– Tõstamaa that was connected with pool; the stream of Uruste begins in Tõstamaa by a hunting road. Last baron the north–eastern part. Plain bog birds Alexander Stael von Holstein was alleg- and eagles live in the bog and plenty of edly born in Viruna. During previous cranberries and cloudberries grow here republic a settlement village formed too. alongside Tõstamaa–Kalli road. Only In the bog massive of Võlla are located few farms have remained by now and grove islands: chain of bog islets that former hunting lodge is destroyed by consists of three moraine hummocks this point of time too. and can be reached from the road of Pärnu–Lihula. Gravel–road leading to the bog was built on the former log road. Bog of Nätsi–Võlla The highest of bog islets is Tagasaare The area is located in the western part that was inhabited from about 1780; of Pärnu shallow and in the north–east- there were two single farms on the ern part of Tõstamaa Parish. The border islet before the last war: farm of Salu– of Tõstamaa Parish runs along western Jaan Eessaare and farm of Salu–Jaan rim of the bog of Nätsi–Võlla. The larger Tagasaare. The bog is surrounded by a part of the bog is located in the Parish narrow strip of transitional fen and bog of Audru. The moor comprises the bog forests. Former swamp hayfields on bog of Nätsi–Võlla with its surrounding for- borders (especially on the north–east- est areas, and moraine ridges that are ern and northern border) are overgrown located southward and south–west- with bushes. ward. The bog of almost 11 000 ha area is located in the basin behind the upland of the Peninsula of Tõstamaa. From southwest the moor borders with moraine ridges of Köössa–Alu–Murru, from northwest with woodlands of Viruna.

25 HOW TO BEHAVE IN • Landowners or other landholders NATURE may not prohibit fellow citizens to move on public lands and on lands Nature is common property of all of us that are designated for public use, on everybody has a right to share in. Load roads and on water bodies, as well tolerance of northern fragile nature is as on ice and on shore paths. not significant and therefore hikers, vacationers, as well as landowners, • Every public water body or a water have to keep nature clean and beauti- body designated for public use has ful. Undisturbed state and biota of shore paths that can be used by ev- nature have therefore to be preserved. erybody. The width of a shore path This way nature will be preserved to our is 10m for navigable water bodies successors. and 4 m for other water bodies. The In order to preserve nature one has to owner may not close the path even if be first of all familiar with it — the better the private land is fenced or marked we know nature the closer it becomes with signs that prohibit movement. to us. Besides that one should not for- Pasturage fences and other fences get that nature exists and lives perfectly situated on shore paths shall have its’ own life, without any human inter- ference, perhaps even better than under gates. our care and protection. • Motor–boating on a public water Which truths one should take for guid- body or a water body designated for ance? These can be aligned as rights public use is permitted, but on a lake and obligations, aka everybody’s right. of area less than 100 ha this shall be Here we deal with ethical beliefs that deemed to be inappropriate. The tra- are grounded both on laws and tradi- dition does not concern motorboats tions, on articles and culture. that belong to guarding and rescue Creation of campfire places on beaches, services. dunes, and landscapes of beautiful • Motor–boaters shall avoid entry into sights in the Parish of Tõstamaa is cur- fish spawning sites and places of rently under way. For the purposes of mass nesting of waterfowl during preserving our valuable landscapes fol- spawning and nesting period. lowing rules of behaviour should be observed: • When moving on natural landscapes one has to avoid disturbing animals • One can move on private land from and birds, especially specimens of sunrise until sunset, provided that protected species, during their nest- no damage is caused to landowners ing period, in their living and repro- or other landholders by this. If the duction sites, and in their migratory private land is fenced or marked with routes. signs that prohibit moving, for pass- • ing through this land a permit of a When moving on cultural landscapes landowner is needed. on has to close after oneself cattle gates, in winter too.

26 • Special order may be established re- • If places for camping and making garding movement on nature conser- campfire are absent a place for stay- vation areas and on lands that belong ing in nature shall be chosen where to defence forces. Movement may be domestic peace for locals shall be closed out on polygons that belong guaranteed. to defence forces — during drills Remember! In case if a fire risk warning about which fellow citizens shall be for forests is issued making of open fire informed via marks in nature. is always prohibited, on campfire beds • Everybody’s right does not apply in too. regard of arrangement of sport and other mass events on landscape. Roads and footpaths For organising these events consent • Do not ride a motor vehicle outside of landowners or other landholders public and private roads. Park your shall be applied for and consent of vehicle in a place that is designated local administration shall be applied for this purpose (parking place, bi- for too, if necessary. cycle holders, etc) or on a shoulder where it does not interfere move- Staying in nature ment of other vehicles and does not • Short–term staying on landscapes for harm nature. resting, sunbathing, bathing, gather- • Waterways of a public water body or ing gifts of nature, fishing, mooring other water body that is designated or landing a boat is permitted in same for public use are open for traffic for places and under same conditions as everybody. Everybody’s right does in case of moving on landscapes. not give permission for moorage and • For preparing a camp (a place for tying a boat to a landing stage that camping and making campfire) use belongs to private owner. Landing marked place that is intended for on banks and shores and access to this purpose. In case where marked shore paths is allowed to everyone. and prepared places for camping and For landing in a port ask the owner/ making campfire are used, permit is holder of the port for permission. not needed. • Besides that everyone’s right does • It is not permitted to make a camp- not give a permission to move with fire on peaty soil, on areas covered motor vehicles outside public roads, with foggage, or dry reed, nor on except for sledges in winter. Foot- sands which are used as a beach. paths that have been formed accord- • Feed brushwood for campfire can be ing to longstanding customs are free gathered from forest floor. A camp- to use for everyone. fire shall be safe and on leaving one • The owner or other holder of pub- has to make sure that the fire is ex- lic water body or water body des- tinct and charcoal finally dead. ignated for public use is obliged to

27 take care of the water body, to clear • When moving on landscape one has away trees that have fallen into the to avoid disturbing wild animals and water — in order to insure fixedness birds, especially in their breeding and of river shores and ensure usability nesting places. It is also not permit- of the river as a waterway. ted to go to spawning sites of fish • Landowners or other landholders and mass nesting places of birds on shall make possible to everyone ac- water bodies. cess on foot to objects that are un- der heritage conservation or nature Littering the nature conservation, as well as to bathing • When you are staying or moving in areas, to footbridges on traditional nature it is not permitted to it. Pet- footpaths, to fords that are passable rol and oils are dangerous waste and on foot, and to natural sources of this kind of waste has to be always fresh water that is suitable for drink- taken along when leaving nature. ing. Yet to visit an object that is situ- ated in owner’s kitchen–garden one • Do form oneself a principle accord- has to ask for permission. ing to which no trace shall be left of the camping place. Anything you Fishing and hunting have brought along to protected area or hike you have to take along whilst • Everyone has a right to fish, free of leaving it. Do not throw remnants into charge, with one simple hand line on water bodies or on the ice in winter! public water bodies or water bodies Do not bury your trash! If you see designated for public use, including a dump in nature that is created by watercourses that belong to many someone else, try to dispose it. landowners or landholders. On other • If there is a garbage bin, throw gar- private water bodies fishing is al- bage into it, if the garbage bin is lowed only on consent of the owner absent take garbage with you. Gar- of the water body. Fishing with other bage has to be assorted, if possible, fishing devices is permitted only with and carried into relevant containers fisherman permit and under regula- (packages, aluminium, waste paper, tions provided for by law. etc.). Dangerous waste, like chemi- • Hunting is regulated In Estonia by cals, batteries, lamps, medicines, in- law and is not covered by everyone’s secticides, oil waste, etc., has to be right. handed over to Waste management • It is permitted to be in a forest with facility. We have a waste manage- dog if the dog is on the lead, with ment station in Tõstamaa. See the the exception of hunting–dogs while contact number on the back cover! hunting.

28 Everybody’s responsibility It is prohibited: If a person causes with his/her activi- • to move in home yards, plantations, ties, intentionally or unintentionally, apiaries, sowings, crops, and other damage in nature to protected natural agricultural land, where thereby a objects or protected species, fossils and damage is caused to the owner; minerals, and to landowners or other landholders, or violates their lawful • to set fire to a campfire and to camp rights, he/she has to compensate the without consent of a landowner or a damage (burnings, treading of crop and landholder; hay, pollution, etc.). In case if the dam- • to hunt and to fish without relevant age shall be compensated voluntarily permit, except with one simple hand and conscientiously, it should be nice. line; Otherwise the damaged party is entitled • to damage trees and bushes; to claim the guilty party for compensa- tion of damages. • to disturb domestic peace of local people; • to harm habitats and nests of wild animals and birds, to gather their eggs, to bring them along to home and to harm them in other ways; • to harm protected objects of nature IN BRIEF and protected species; • to use motor vehicles where it is pro- In nature it is permitted: hibited; • to pollute nature. • to move on foot, by bicycle, on Everybody’s right applies also in regard skies, on boat, and on horseback ev- of all foreigners and other persons, erywhere where it is not permitted legally staying on Estonia. pursuant to law or under the law ; Further information about principles of • to stay everywhere where moving is everyone’s right can be read in the fol- permitted too; lowing acts: • to gather wood–berries, mushrooms, • flowers, herbs, hazelnuts, and other Law of Property Act, gifts of nature that are not under na- • Water Act, ture protection; • Nature Conservation Act, • to fish with one simple hand line on • Forest Act, public water bodies or water bodies • Fishing Act, designated for public use. • Waste Act.

29 ADVICE TO HIKERS friend you are calling might not hear you. • Go on walking tour two or three to- • When hiking do observe everybody’s gether. No one knows beforehand right as well! when friend’s advice, supporting hand, or simply presence may be BUILDING needed. • Amongst camping outfit one has to In order to preserve valuable landscapes, take along a map, compass, racket old buildings, and attractive objects of nature to future generations as well, we footwear (rubber boots), spare socks, have to pay special attention to activi- penknife or Finnish knife, gnat spray, ties that could potentially harm these piece of film; thanks to the latter one values. Construction activities are cer- has not to sit down on wet moss tainly amongst this kind of activities and the film can be also spread over and thus one has to address parish head and rucksack in the wet. administration before starting any kind • When going to bog or swamp find of construction works. yourself a hike stick of about 1,5- For protection of shores and banks cer- 2 meters length which is strong tain rules are provided for by laws: enough not to brake when stepped • Building exclusion zone is estab- on it; it is also good for examining lished on shores and banks — 200 the surface where to step. meters on sea–islands, 100 meters on • In order not to sink through the sur- sea coast, 50 meters on the banks of face choose carefully the place where the lakes of Ermistu and Tõhela. Re- duction of building exclusion zones you step: choose tuft with ligneous can be applied for from the Minister stalks (clumps–bushes), big shrubs of Environment, only in exceptional of cotton grass and sword–grass, case, basing on detail planning ap- dark brown (not bright green) sur- proved by parish council. The appli- faces of moss that bear man. cation has to be very well grounded. • Roots of plants that grow in swamps This obligation does not apply in and bogs or on shores of water bod- regard of building in the yard of an ies are not eatable; some roots may existing farm. even be deadly poisonous. • On sea coast and on forest land of • When you have finished hiking make the banks of lakes the building exclu- sure that there are no ticks on your sion zone shall extend to the bound- body or clothes. There are no ticks ary of the limited management zone in a bog but in the bushes on the of the seashore or bank, i.e. 200 m edge of a swamp they may prowl for on seashores and 100 m alongside “warm–blooded” passer. If the tick’s lakes. Special requirements are estab- sting starts reddening it is necessary lished in regard of building on valu- able landscapes that are dealt with to seek for medical advice. in this booklet; building exclusion • Due to muffling effect of fogs hu- zones are established on some of man voice does not echo in a bog. A these landscapes.

30 For preservation of • one comes into contact with land- valuable landscapes it is scape mainly from roads and thus it is important to keep roadside (in necessary: case of water tourism shores of water • to preserve natural elements, attrac- bodies too) arable lands, hayfields, tive road sections, openness, and and pastures in good condition; views on valuable elements of land- • to preserve in landscape “imprints” scape; that derive from previous era, where • to preserve and arrange resting plac- it is possible. Preserved traces create es which are in intensive use in a temporal deepness in a landscape way that their value should not be and diversify living conditions for liv- deteriorated due to large number of ing nature at the same time; visitors; • to keep in mind that single objects of • to adjust new elements and land–use historical value (objects of heritage to old elements and land–use in a conservation) render landscape ad- way that disturbing discord should ditional value; not be created and their values • to preserve traditional land use and should not be irreversibly damaged; landscapes in places where popula- • to leave natural habitats (smaller or tion structure, road network, and ar- larger wetlands, coppices, big single chitecture have been preserved better trees) as islets into large expanses of than usual; arable land; • to preserve sites that are connected • in case of shortage of natural areas with folk legends and events of his- in some places, to replace natural ar- tory, as well as with heroes, person- eas with planting of greenery (e.g., ages of culture or other people well roadside lines of trees, alleys, wind known to people; protection stands) and coppices, us- • activities that are necessary for vaca- ing local species of trees and bushes tion have to be planned to be carried for this purpose; out in places that are designated for • to preserve in forests valuable habi- this — on natural or semi–natural ar- tats (those of animals, mushrooms, eas in the locality of settlements; lichens, and plants) and age–old • to use nature friendly materials roads; (clay, natural stone, wood, reed) • to leave strips of shore (in width of in construction works, if possible, water protection zones), as parts of and eco–technological solutions in landscape with the greatest ecologi- wastewater treatment. cal potential, in nature close condi- tion; • to preserve water bodies of natural and human origin that are yet in natural condition; INFORMATION Marine Park of the Strait of Kihnu Sadama tee 2 Tõstamaa 88101 Pärnu County Telephone: 44 96 180 Mobile phone: 527 0190 (Heikki Luhamaa) Fax: 44 96 186 Skype: “marine park” e–mail: [email protected] home page: www.merepark.ee

Parish administration of Tõstamaa Sadama tee 2 Tõstamaa 88101 Pärnu County Telephone: 449 6180 Fax: 449 6186 e-mail: [email protected] home page: www.tostamaa.ee

Waste management station Mobile phone: 522 3024 (Kalev Martson)