SIGHTS of the Parish of TÕSTAMAA 2006 Contents Introduction ........................... 3 Lake of Tõhela ...............................22 Church of Tõhela ...........................23 Parish of Tõstamaa — brief Boulders of Alu ..............................23 historical survey ..................... 4 Viruna ...........................................24 Bog of Nätsi–Võlla .........................24 Sights of the Parish of Tõstamaa 4 Nature conservation area of Lindi .....4 How to behave in nature ........25 Lindi–Tõstamaa road ........................5 Staying in nature ............................26 Church of Pootsi–Kõpu ....................5 Roads and footpaths ......................26 Landscapes of cultural heritage .........6 Fishing and hunting .......................27 Manor of Pootsi ...............................7 Littering the nature .........................27 Lao and Munalaid ............................8 Everybody’s responsibility ...............28 Island of Manija aka Manilaid ............8 In brief ...........................................28 Kokkõkivi of Manija .........................9 Island of Sorgu ..............................10 Advice to hikers ....................29 Sacrificial tree of Päraküla ............... 11 Church of Seliste ............................ 11 Building ................................30 Pine tree of Tõrvanõmme ...............12 Hill of Levaroti ............................... 13 Village of Tõstamaa .......................14 Parish house of Tõstamaa .............. 15 Church of Tõstamaa ...................... 15 Reservoir and choir stand ............... 16 Manor and park of Tõstamaa ....................................... 16 Laagisoo ........................................18 Manor, oaks, and juniper grove of Kastna ..............................18 Church of Kastna ...........................20 Manor and port of Vaiste ...............20 Lakes of Ermistu and Tõhela ........... 21 Lake of Ermistu ..............................22 River of Tõstamaa ..........................22 INTRODUCTION building, which rules and regulations to observe in waste management. Parish of Tõstamaa is rich in its natural As the main part of the visitors journey forms. Protected bog of Nätsi–Võlla, rich along Audru–Tõstamaa–Nurmsi road- in vegetation, is located on the northern way — that is a part of EuroVelo, the border of the parish; nature conservation European cycle route network — the area of Lindi is located on the western sights are presented in a sequence that border. We have here also the larg- starts from entering into the parish on est lakes of Pärnu County, Ermistu and the border of the Parish of Audru, in Tõhela, which are rich in fish and thera- Lindi, and moving onwards towards the peutic mud. One can find here arable border of the Parish of Varbla in Vaiste. lands, pristine forests, seaside meadows From Pootsi one can take a turn towards and woodlands, sand drifts are situated port of Munalaid via which connection some kilometres from the shore. The with islands of Kihnu and Manija takes coastline is divided by coves, peninsulas, place. From Tõstamaa one can turn to forelands, and sand spits. One can find the direction of Tõhela–Lihula. here shallows and high shores, fields sown with stones, and some sands too. The booklet is composed basing on infor- Here is inhabited island of Manija, and mation available to the administration uninhabited Sorgu, and numerous islets of the Parish of Tõstamaa. Publication and holms. Many of these can be con- of the booklet was supported by the sidered natural sights. SA Foundation of the Environmental Investment Centre under the program of Residing in the Parish of Tõstamaa we Environmental Awareness. have got accustomed to our living envi- ronment. One has to admit at the same Author of the idea of the booklet and time that in answering more complicated compiler of the project is Raine Viitas, questions we often encounter difficul- the publication is composed by Kristiina ties. Particular intention of this booklet Lepik and Kerli Brandt. Completion of is therefore to inform local people of our the booklet was assisted by Efeliine Liiv natural values and to acquaint them with and Mari Lühiste. Photos by: Toomas our living environment. Mitt, Ülle Tamm, Madis Veskimägi, Toomas Rõhu, Eve Käär, Kristiina Lepik, Hospitality services are developing and and Karin Randmäe. the number of people visiting the par- ish is growing. Introducing the area and its sites is the second objective of this booklet. The third purpose of this booklet is to share with local population, as well as with vacationers and guests, knowledge on how to preserve our common living environment: how to behave oneself in nature, which rules to observe whilst hiking, which rules to follow when 3 Parish of Tõstamaa — brief historical survey SIGHTS OF Region of Tõstamaa was first men- THE tioned, though in more general terms, in the Chronicle of Liivimaa where it was PARISH OF referred to as ‘seaside land’. Although it is told that the word ‘Tõstamaa’ stands TÕSTAMAA for high land that is suitable for farm- ing, according to folk tradition people acquired here living “not from land, but from the sea”. First written notices of the region date back to 1242 when a land disagreement between the Diocese of Saare–Lääne (Ösel–Wiek) and Livonian Order was settled. Upon divid- ing lands the Order was left with 2 par- ishes of that time: Cotze (on territories of Tõhela, Tõstamaa, and Varbla) and Sorwe (on territories of Seliste, Pootsi, and Audru). The parishes were sepa- rated from each other by primeval for- ests of Päraküla. Data on Kastna dates back to as early as 14th century — in connection with building of the monas- tery of Padise. Other regions of the par- ish — Tõhela, Ermistu, Pootsi, Liu, and Värati — were mentioned for the first time in 1534. References to 13 villages that are known nowadays too and to state estate of Tõstamaa (‘Testama’ — in administration district for socage service of the Manor of Koonga (in Estonian: vakus), in 1553) are made in a revision letter dating back to the beginning of Estonia’s affiliation to Sweden. Present Parish comprises the village of Tõstamaa and 19 hamlets, including inhabited island of Manilaid (Manija). Larger centres are Tõstamaa, Seliste, Pootsi, Tõhela, and Kastna. 4 Nature conservation area swamp pine grove spreads on edges, mixed pine–birch forest grows in the of Lindi south–western part. Southern part of the swamp is rich in blueberries and cranberries, in autumns plenty of mush- rooms grow here. One can easily move in the swamp, but certainly not damag- ing frail swamp landscape. On the other hand it is prohibited to visit the spit that spreads into the swamp. As for species of flora we may come here across common yew, lesser tway- blade, lady’s–slipper, broad helleborine, Nature conservation area of Lindi, area: heath spotted digitate orchid, fir club 1100 ha, is located alongside Pärnu– moss. Tõstamaa roadway on the borders of Birds are here very unusual because the parishes of Tõstamaa and Audru. birds characteristic both to fogs and to Swamp conservation area of Lindi was seacoast appear here: erne, black stork, formed in 1981. The area was extended lesser spotted eagle, crane, horned in 1999 — four habitats of protected grebe, black grouse, and greenshank. species and swamp of Lindi were merged into one unitary nature conser- There are no dwellings or cultivated vation area — in order to preserve differ- pieces of land in the protection area. ent species of flora and birds, swamp Bog landscape can be enjoyed from communities, and surrounding forests. Lindi to Kõpu. Over 20 different types of forest are rep- Winding road of Lindi–Tõstamaa, resented here. that is included into the list of beautiful The nature conservation area is geo- road sections, runs from the dairy of logically situated in the south–western Lindi to Tõstamaa on the seaside ridge part of Pärnu lowland, in the basin of of an old dune. Near Seliste the dunes NW–SE direction. The swamp of Lindi split into two: the road runs onwards has been formed in the Lagoon of the on the seaside ridge, the second ridge Litorina Sea (development stage of the departs and runs parallel to road, past Baltic 7,5-4 thousand years ago) in the village of Tõstamaa, straight in direction basin that was surrounded by high dune of Kastna. ridge. The swamp collects its nourish- Linear villages Pootsi and Seliste are ing waters from rainfalls and from the located alongside the road. Roadside bourns of Lindi and Künnimaa that fall landscape is valued by beautiful pine into the Livonian Gulf. The nucleus forest, swamp of Lindi, oak alley and of the conservation area is formed by manor assembly of Pootsi, and churches the swamp of Lindi with its tiny pic- in Kõpu and Seliste. In spring high turesque lakelets most of which disap- water period treat for eyes is offered by pear by midsummer. Wet bald swamp fast–flowing streams of Männiku and with silt hollows and single bog–pools Tõrvanõmme which intersect the dune is bounded by carr strip, transition ridge. 5 There are five churches in the Parish of church are also built in the same style. Tõstamaa, one of which is of Lutheran There is a memorial tablet to the first religion (Tõstamaa), remaining four Estonian bishop of Orthodox Church, (Pootsi–Kõpu, Seliste, Tõhela, Kastna) Platon (Paul Kulbusch), who was born are Orthodox ones. in Kõpu. The congregation is function- ing heretofore. Church of Pootsi–Kõpu There are several beautiful landscapes of cultural