Issue 6 | AUGUST 2015

‘WITH THE GODS’ Mainstream fashion A capital with football clubs A local trend industry Branding at A look at the legacy Fashion Week of textile mills

Editor’s note AUGUST 2015 Contents

Marketing: elcome to the a merging market; male sports fans August edition with a penchant for style. A look at of Labelling If you have a burning question branding Fashion, the or industry interest that you’d like at London 04 onlineW magazine that reaches to see covered in our magazine, Fashion Week beyond fashion, textiles and or you would like to contribute to future editions, please email apparel to explore exactly News: [email protected]. All what’s going on in the industry interesting and relevant content Stories and from a marketing and labelling will be considered. We also have comments perspective. advertising space available, so from the This month’s edition has two if you’re in the fashion, textiles industry 06 main themes; Fashion Weeks and apparel industry, why not and the hybrid world of Football book a space and see how far Case Study: fashion. We have an interesting your audience reaches? To see case study exploring a new niche what’s going on between issues Fashion with in terrace fashion and style. A new of our magazine, follow us on football clubs: brand WITH THE GODS is the social media: WITH THE brainchild of two ex-footballers – GODS 08 well worth keeping an eye on these guys and waiting for them to come Review: to a club shop near you. As we look towards the autumn A look back fashion weeks, we are also at the local exploring how the traditional Editorial team, history of fashion format is evolving to include textile mills 10 menswear specifically. It certainly is Labelling Fashion

Looking behind the label Labelling Fashion | August 2015 03 Marketing Source: Melissa’s Blog Melissa’s Topshop Source:

A capital trend Lynsey J Bowen takes a look at branding at London Fashion Week

s we look to next month and the excitement that London Fashion Week brings to our industry, we cast our eye to the Aunseen tactics used by brands as they demonstrate their latest designs. September 18-22 will see London play host to many of the world’s biggest fashion brands as they seek to showcase new collections and reinforce their brand in the minds of their target market and the fashion sector in general. London Fashion Week is about so much more than ‘this seasons look’ – it is an opportunity to impress buyers from massive high-street and boutique retailers, the world over. This is why branding, and the use of branding techniques to convey specific, subliminal

04 Labelling Fashion | August 2015 Looking behind the label messages to their target market, plays such a vital, yet unseen, role at London Fashion Week.

Classic fashion branding Source: londonfashionweek.co.uk Source: One of the biggest challenges facing fashion labels and brands is whether they are an artistic business or whether their designs are pure art. This subtle but crucial difference will change how you approach branding. If your label Award winner Mary Katrantzou is an art, there will be less focus on creating a message or story behind the communications used to ‘sell’ your designs. BOSS, Barbour and so on. There is and so on that will communicate the The primary focus for your brand even a website aimed at this exact brand on show to the public. A logo, at will be the artistic notions behind each niche tribal market which brings the Fashion Weeks, will be the reserve design. The journey and creation of together all of these brands called of the marketing department who will the piece will be the story and not the Terracesmenswear.co.uk be using it on print collateral, banners, concerns of the wearer of how they will In a similar vein, a fashion labels adverts and online but rarely, on the look or feel in your pieces. branding should always have its ideal collections themselves. client in mind. Understanding the needs, wants, desires and expectations of your Awards fantasy muse can help shape the brand Every year there are a number of messages used at London Fashion awards that are presented at the Week and beyond. relevant Fashion Weeks and this is an excellent, and much underrated, Logo or device form of branding. Earlier this It is so easy to slip into year, Mary Katrantzou the mind-set that was announced as branding equals a the winner of this logo. And yes, year’s BFC/Vogue your brands logo Designer Fashion is an important Fund. The Fund Source: Hayden Williams part of your was established brand and the in 2008 and In contrast, an artistic business will communication of provides one

place more emphasis on creating a what your brand helpmystyle.ie Source: designer with brand personality which their target stands for, but it a bespoke, high market can relate to. Executed well, isn’t everything. level mentoring brands who do this create a social You will notice that support programme tribe which has social traits similar to very few of the designs over a twelve month those of the brand, essentially creating on the catwalk at next month’s period, as well as a a niche target market for their brand. fashion weeks across the world will £200,000 grant to provide necessary This branding practise is designed to have logos on them. Logos are saved for infrastructure to take them to the next stimulate sales which is where it differs display boards at the entrance to events stage in their business. from an art brand. and exclusive parties where new clothing Winning any sort of prize or award A good example of this is football lines will be showcased ‘in the flesh’. certifies a brand as trustworthy, of high fans which, as a social tribe, tend to It will be the cut of the fabric, the quality and worthy of your time as a wear fashion brands such as Ellesse, colour combinations, the textiles used purchaser. It gives the brand external recognition demonstrating independent confidence in it. IT WILL BE THE CUT OF THE FABRIC, THE So, look out for the winners of next months London Fashion Week, and, COLOUR COMBINATIONS, THE TEXTILES the different forms of fashion branding. USED AND SO ON THAT WILL COMMUNICATE THE Why not Tweet us with your favourite designers, collections, labels and forms BRAND ON SHOW TO THE PUBLIC of branding @GBLabels

Looking behind the label Labelling Fashion | August 2015 05 News First Men’s Fashion Week in NYC

celebrate all that is good about The Menswear-focused event seems their niche of the fashion world. to have been a huge success as it steps The event attracted new out from the shadow of the Fashion designers including Football Weeks around the world. star and Superbowl champion The most frequently used adjective Victor Cruz, who has teamed used to describe New York Fashion Source: hypebeast.com up with actor and producer Week: Men was “chill” as people were in Tyson Beckford, to promote good spirits. There were fewer designers Men’s Fashion Week: State-side the importance of menswear on the calendar and the venues were and fashion in their roles as closer together making the agenda far As we all prepare for this month’s ambassadors for the event. more manageable and relaxed. fashion weeks around the world, last Cruz said on Today.com ‘Menswear In fact, Alyssa Vingan, who covered month saw the inaugural Men’s Fashion is outselling womenswear right now and the event for Fashionista.com writes Week hosted in New York City. that just goes to show how much men ‘attendees seemed to exude more actual Back in February of this year, are paying attention to fashion.’ “style” than we see during the women’s CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers Cruz is renowned for caring about ready-to-wear and couture weeks…’ of America) announced that it was how he looks outside the stadium suggesting the event has actually achieved launching its own menswear-dedicated and has created his own fashion line something quite significant in its innovation. fashion week, underlining menswear’s Young Whales. Whilst the New York event was growing importance in the American Kicking off the event was a low-key focused on Menswear in the American fashion industry. day of presentations in the West Village fashion world, we are hoping the The event was a fantastic opportunity that closed with John Varvatos’s highly success of NYFW:M will catch on and for menswear designers, editors, bloggers publicized return to New York after we will see similar events hit Europe and buyers to come together and eight years of showing in . very soon.

London Fashion designer Week comes to Soho

Elio Fiorucci dies aged 80 Source: Londonfashionweek.co.uk

His clothes caught the attention of the 1970s “jet set” and clients included Andy Warhol and Bianca Jagger. His Fiorucci brand went on to pioneered stretch and Brewer Street: Venue Source: BBC News was famous for using bright and The 62nd edition of LFW, a global fluorescent colours. highlight on the international fashion The Milan shop became a focal calendar, will move to Brewer Street point for youth culture and stores in in the heart of Soho. This new central : Denim legend London and New York later followed. London location fulfils the British Mr Fiorucci sold his company in Fashion Council’s (BFC) goal to host It was announced at the end of 1990 to a Japanese firm but 11 years London Fashion Week in the West last month that the famous Italian ago founded a new brand, Love End, providing an epicentre for a city- octogenarian had sadly passed away Therapy. This new clothing brand wide fashion celebration with close following a sudden illness. offered new garments, new jeans, proximity to major retail spaces. Elio Fiorucci was born in Milan, Italy new T-shirts, dresses and accessories Spanning two floors of the Brewer in 1935 where he inherited a shoe designed to bring happiness and Street Car Park, the venue will play store from his father. In the mid-60s, he optimism. Coloured dwarfs are the host to some of the world’s most began traveling to London to bring - symbol of Love Therapy. exciting designer catwalk shows in skirts and other fashionable items for The fashion industry will sadly miss the BFC Show Space. sale in his shop in Milan. this creative denim genius.

06 Labelling Fashion | August 2015 Looking behind the label Football fans: Admiral is Italy’s €20 Million US Fashion Bid back in the clothing game Italy is said to be announcing a €20 million initiative to strengthen its relationship with the US regarding Sportswear still continues textiles, fashion and leather goods to rule the menswear exports. Vice minister of economic agenda – so much so development, Carlo Calenda, that we’re starting to see detailed the Ministry of Economic formerly legendary, but Source: Admiral Development’s year-long plans in now dormant brands New York which involved “trade get a second chance. shows, special events, incoming Case in point: Admiral. services and assistance in Italy and Launched back in 1914, a major media campaign.” Admiral was known for crafting kits for English Admiral: Return to the game football teams (including supplying England’s 1966 World Cup every man needs, with a sporty twist: goalkeeper, Gordon Banks, with his T-shirts and nylon zip-ups with branded The country has been encouraged jersey and for kitting out the World taping, slim chinos, tailored tracksuit by its increasing exports to the Cup side in 1982). Now it’s back, bottoms and Mod-style polos with US (which last year totalled $5.6 and applying its history of sporting contrast piping. billion), WWD reports, and hopes expertise to a new line of men’s casual If you like what you see, good news: to profit from “the ever-influential wear – and we’ve got a first look. every item comes in at under £30. youth culture” since 34 per cent of Styled by Benns (the man However, the even better news is that the US population of 315 million is behind Jack O’Connell’s superb off- it’s all be available now exclusively at under 25. screen looks), the 28-piece collection Sainsbury’s – so you won’t have to go far The move is a major boost for consists of the kind of wardrobe staples to get yourself a piece of the action. the Made In Italy brand, which has been used since the Eighties to highlight the quality of the country’s produce, as well as for the nation Tommy Hilfiger’s Fall itself, which saw exports of clothing, textile, leather goods, cosmetics, eyewear, jewellery and rise Campaign Scores Major significantly in 2014, contributing to a 4.5 per cent market share growth Fashion Goals since 2013.

fall ad campaign gave us. than it actually is. Seriously, what high Although, I don’t remember school do these guys attend, and can my high school being quite I get a re-do on my lackluster four year this chic… experience, please? Hilfiger’s football themed The full campaign will be released fall runway show obviously on August 3rd, but the sneak peak

Source: fashiontimes.com scored a major touchdown, images are definitely getting us amped because the designer decided up for what’s to come. Prinsloo poses in Photo: Courtesy/Tommy Hilfiger to stick with the theme for his a striped shirtdress as she gets hoisted fall 2015 ad campaign. The up in the air by some football hunks, Tommy Hilfiger: Football crazy campaign, adorably dubbed impeccably dressed dudes chill on “Team Hilfiger,” stars Victoria’s goal posts, and I don’t want to give It doesn’t get much more “all American” Secret model Behati Prinsloo and a slew away any spoilers or anything, but than high school football games, so it’s of football studs (in uniform), for a series there are some pretty a-mazing fur hats. pretty fitting that that’s exactly what all of images that most definitely make #fallgoals American designer, Tommy Hilfiger’s, going back to school seem way better Pun totally intended.

Looking behind the label Labelling Fashion | August 2015 07 Case Study

Footy

fashionaul McGregor is an ex-footballer Lynsey J Bowen showcases the up and with a keen interest in music and coming new fashion brand WITH THE fashion. Following his retirement from professional football he had GODS as they bring mainstream fashion Pan idea which, with his business partner to football club shops Shaun Barker, he is well on the way to making a reality. Paul has been around the music and fashion world for much of his life and upon leaving professional football, noticed that club shops where filled with unfashionable clothing items which had a lazy design, normally the clubs logo, printed on average-quality products. ‘We feel that there is no need to sacrifice quality and style whilst you’re supporting your club. Simple.’ explains Paul as we discuss his new business venture. ‘I’d started getting invited back to games and clubs that I’ve played

08 Labelling Fashion | August 2015 Looking behind the label for and it just dawned on me that club shops don’t provide what you see on the terraces and I felt that there was a place for them to do that. Club shops offer what they offer and there’s a market for it, I’m not knocking it. I just think they can do more. We’re a really exciting bolt on for them and I feel we can grow a great brand from that foundation.’ and they are the things professional. Such great company that it we will never compromise.’’ barely feels like work to be around them What is ‘WITH THE GODS’? explains Paul as he talks me through the but goodness, they know their stuff. Paul thought there was a gap in the inspiration behind his idea. Top boys!” market for club-focused, heritage- The designs for each clubs range In the same vain, when inspired, stylish fashion items which will be worked on as a collaboration it came to branding and bridged the gap between football between Paul, Shaun and the design labelling their new clothing merchandise and trendy, fashionable agency ‘The Bleach Room’ based line, Paul and Shaun apparel which could be warn socially in Hackney, London. Each looked no further as well as in the terraces. clubs design theme will be than GB Labels He took this idea to his childhood a single element that best based at Friar friend, Shaun, and together they have represents each club. This Gate Studios, created the clothing brand ‘WITH theme is then used to create Derby. GB Labels THE GODS’. As Shaun was the Derby a number of modern, stylish have more than 50 County FC Captain at the time, they and fashionable designs which years’ experience worked with the club to trial a range bridge the gap between the in branding and of fashion-focused T-shirts designed to club-association and high- labelling. They specifically target Derby County fans end fashion designs. also manufacture who wanted to show their support for their woven labels their club but also wanted to remain Local association in the UK, making on-trend. When it came them the obvious to manufacturing choice to work with and producing when it came to QUALITY OF the finished branding and labelling prototypes, Paul their T-shirts. GARMENT AND and Shaun wanted ‘Lovely guys, who not to look locally only make great labels but QUALITY OF DESIGN for the different are always willing to go that ARE OUR STAPLES AND elements needed. extra step providing help and They worked with a business knowledge which we THEY ARE THE THINGS Derby-based printer found invaluable when starting WE WILL NEVER who has experience our business. Can’t praise in screen-printing to them enough.’ COMPROMISE create the best quality designs possible. Paul and Shaun are very passionate The future of WITH THE GODS about the designs they create for each The trial at Derby County has been ‘Mandy Hollis at Derby County club and wanted to work with a screen so successful, there are a number of has been fantastic with us, helping to print company who could do those Premiership and Championship clubs trial and bring our products to market’ designs justice. This is why they chose queuing up for the WITH THE GODS explains Paul with enthusiasm. Darkside Screen Prints. brand to appear in their club shops. Both Paul and Shaun were keen to Paul has nothing but praise for twins, But it doesn’t stop there, there are keep the focus of their brand on stylish Chris and from Darkside ‘I’ve plans afoot to create a whole range of design and high quality as these are just about got a grip on which one’s fashion-wear with modern club-focused the two elements they felt were missing Chris and which one’s Nick now but designs so watch this space because from club shops. ‘Quality of garment either way they both couldn’t have ‘WITH THE GODS’ is coming to a club and quality of design are our staples been more helpful, knowledgeable or shop near you soon.

Looking behind the label Labelling Fashion | August 2015 09 Review Source: buxtonfestival.co.uk Source:

A local industry

asson Road. Mill Street. A cottage industry Justine Kiddy looks Arkwright Avenue. Strutt Until the eighteenth century, textile back at the legacy Street. Weaver’s Close - a production was considered to be a selection of street names ‘cottage’ industry, so called because of textile mills Mfound in Derbyshire towns and villages. it mostly took place in the home Why? Because they are the legacy and relied on slow and labour of an industry that wove its way into the intensive handlooms. fibres of society and because, almost In 1733, an inventor and clockmaker literally, weaving put these places on named John Kay set about changing all the map. of this. He invented the ‘flying shuttle’, an To explain why and how Derbyshire automated machine that meant weavers came to be known for its part in the could stand back and monitor output, rise of the textile industry, we have adjusting the design and fixing failures to step back through history to a without having to physically ‘shuttle’ time when mass production was the thread back and forth through a loom. thing of dreams for a man named Thanks to John Kay, the efficiency of Richard Arkwright. looms vastly improved and there was a

10 Labelling Fashion | August 2015 Looking behind the label THE EFFICIENCY OF LOOMS VASTLY IMPROVED AND THERE WAS A SURGE OF PRODUCTIVITY, SHIFTING DEMAND TO GOOD QUALITY YARN surge of productivity, shifting demand machine capable Masson Mills Source: cromfordmill.co.uk Source: to good quality yarn. It is at this point of spinning four that we meet the man who went strands of cotton on to play such a pivotal role in the at the same time. It was a breakthrough, Lewis Paul had already invented the textile revolution. but its size needed more than mere machine in 1748, but with Arkwright’s manpower to operate it. improvements, it served to complete the Richard Arkwright Arkwright turned to water for a whole production chain, making textile Born in Preston in 1732, it wasn’t a consistent source of power and soon, big manufacture more efficient than ever. privileged upbringing that led Richard entrepreneurial names were recognising Arkwright to the weaving industry - he the chance to turn a profit. Two men Parting company was the son of a tailor, but instead of named Jedediah Strutt and Samuel Need By 1781, Samuel Need was dead and pursuing the family trade, Arkwright lent their names to Arkwright’s cause and Jedediah Strutt had grown alarmed paved his own way through life. As a plans to build the first water-powered mill at the pace of industrial expansion. barber, he reworked ways of dying were soon in place. The trio dissolved, but far from perturb hair; as a wigmaker, he marketed the Arkwright, he took the opportunity to first waterproof wigs and as a travelling expand further. salesman, he networked with spinners A new, small-scale factory called and weavers, all of the while gleaning Masson Mills was built in 1783, less vital insight into their wants and needs. than a mile from Cromford. Here, the He was not an inventor, or a visionary, power from the River Derwent was far but he was industrious. greater than at Cromford, allowing for a It was during Arkwright’s travels that greater yield of cotton. It was the first in he heard about attempts to make fabric a string of new factories from Belper to production faster and more efficient. He Source: belper-research.com Manchester and beyond to Scotland. understood the struggles of his father’s industry and with his entrepreneurial Social legacy mind, he quickly recognised the potential. Arkwright’s Water Frame The automation of Arkwright’s machines meant a surge in the employment of Joining John Kay unskilled workers. After exhausting the In 1767, Arkwright met John Kay, Cromford Mill pool of local labourers, Arkwright built who had been working on a method Building at Cromford began in August cottages close to his factories to employ for spinning yarn. With Arkwright’s 1771. Water from the nearby Bonsall people from all over Derbyshire. business mind, a little of his money Brook and Cromford Sough was used The factories were so successful that and Kay’s innovative thought, the pair to drive Arkwright’s spinning wheel spies were sent to report on operations. developed the ‘Spinning Frame’, a and by the time it was operational, it Legend tells that a supervisor from was capable of spinning 128 threads Masson Mills took the knowledge of and making yarn that was stronger cotton spinning to America, sparking than similar machines (such as John textile revolution across the Atlantic. Hargreaves’ Spinning Jenny). The mill The ‘Cotton King,’ ‘the father of became the first industrial-scale cotton factories’ a ‘pioneer of industry’. factory and one of the first modern However you wish to describe Richard factories in the world. Arkwright, he was responsible for revolutionising the textile industry and

Source: businesslife.ba.com The Carding Machine putting Derbyshire on the map for In 1775, Arkwright took out a patent for a manufacturing excellence. For us, his ‘Carding Machine’, an engine that could legacy lives on in our woven labels, Richard Arkwright turn raw cotton into yarn by ‘combing’ produced in the heart of Derbyshire, the fibres in preparation for spinning. where it all began.

Looking behind the label Labelling Fashion | August 2015 11