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History of Yuba - the Film That Forms HISTORY OF YUBA - THE FILM THAT FORMS... 1 HISTORY OF YUBA - THE FILM THAT FORMS ATOP HEATED SOYMILK (1587-2012): EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK Also known in Chinese as doufu-pi (“bean curd skin”), doufu i (“bean curd robes / lingerie”), and fuzhu (“dried bean curd sticks”) Compiled by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi 2012 Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF YUBA - THE FILM THAT FORMS... 2 Copyright (c) 2012 by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information and retrieval systems - except for use in reviews, without written permission from the publisher. Published by: Soyinfo Center P.O. Box 234 Lafayette, CA 94549-0234 USA Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091 www.soyinfocenter.com [email protected] ISBN 9781928914501 (Yuba without hyphens) ISBN 978-1-928914-50-1 (Yuba with hyphens) Printed 1 Nov. 2012 Price: Available on the Web free of charge Search engine keywords: About the Chinese and Japanese characters History of beancurd skin on the title page: History of bean curd skin History of bean-curd skin Left side: Chinese characters History of soymilk skin Top: Doufu pi = Bean curd skin History of bean curd sheets Middle: Doufu i = Bean curd robes / lingerie History of tofu skin Bottom: Fuzhu = Dried bean curd sticks History of the fi lm that forms atop soymilk when heated History of protein-lipid fi lm Middle (color): Chinese characters from a label History of doufu pi Fuzhu = Dried bean curd sticks (dried tofu sticks) History of toufu p’i .... Right side: Japanese characters History of beancurd clothes Top: Yuba (hiragana) History of bean curd robes Bottom: Yuba (kanji = “hot water” + “leaf”) History of bean-curd lingerie History of doufu i History of toufu yi ..... History of dried yuba sticks or rolls History of dry yuba sticks or rolls History of bean curd sticks History of dried bean curd rolls History of dried bean milk cream History of fuzhu History of fu chu Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF YUBA - THE FILM THAT FORMS... 3 Contents Page Dedication and Acknowledgments.................................................................................................................................. 4 Introduction and Brief Chronology, by William Shurtleff .......................................................................................... 5 About This Book ............................................................................................................................................................. 8 Abbreviations Used in This Book .................................................................................................................................. 9 How to Make the Best Use of This Digital Book - Search It! .................................................................................... 10 Full-Page Graphics ................................................................................................................................................. 12-16 History of Yuba: 733 References in Chronological Order ......................................................................................... 17 Contains 64 Photographs and Illustrations Subject/Geographical Index by Record Numbers ................................................................................................... 369 Last Page of Index ....................................................................................................................................................... 418 Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF YUBA - THE FILM THAT FORMS... 4 DEDICATION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Japanese translation and maps: Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. This book is dedicated to Ken Lee (of Soyfoods of America). Lawrence C. Wu (yuba researcher), and Minh Loma Linda University, Del E. Webb Memorial Library Tsai (of Hodo Soy Beanery) - pioneer yuba manufacturers (Seventh-day Adventist): Janice Little, Trish Chapman. and educators in the United States. We would also like to thank our co-workers and friends at Soyinfo Center who, since 1984, have played a major role in Part of the enjoyment of writing a book lies in meeting collecting the documents, building the library, and producing people from around the world who share a common interest, the SoyaScan database from which this book is printed: and in learning from them what is often the knowledge or skills acquired during a lifetime of devoted research or Irene Yen, Tony Jenkins, Sarah Chang, Laurie Wilmore, practice. We wish to give deepest thanks... Alice Whealey, Simon Beaven, Elinor McCoy, Patricia McKelvey, Claire Wickens, Ron Perry, Walter Lin, Dana Scott, Jeremy Longinotti, John Edelen, Alex Lerman, Lydia Of the many libraries and librarians who have been of great Lam, Gretchen Muller, Joyce Mao, Luna Oxenberg, Joelle help to our research over the years, several stand out: Bouchard, Justine Lam, Joey Shurtleff, Justin Hildebrandt, Michelle Chun, Olga Kochan, Loren Clive, Marina Li, University of California at Berkeley: John Creaser, Lois Rowyn McDonald, Casey Brodsky, Hannah Woodman, Farrell, Norma Kobzina, Ingrid Radkey. Elizabeth Hawkins, Molly Howland, Jacqueline Tao, Lynn Hsu, Brooke Vittimberga. Northern Regional Library Facility (NRLF), Richmond, California: Martha Lucero, Jutta Wiemhoff, Scott Miller, Special thanks to Tom and Linda Wolfe of Berwyn Park, Virginia Moon, Kay Loughman. Maryland. And to Lorenz K. Schaller of Ojai, California. Stanford University: Molly Molloy, who has been of special For outstanding help on this yuba book we thank: Minh help on Slavic-language documents. Tsai (of Hodo Soy Beanery), Ken Lee (of Soyfoods of America), Linda Barber; Tomoko Brandemuhl, Dana Jacobi, National Agricultural Library: Susan Chapman, Kay Derr, Vitali Kim, Takuji “Tak” Kimura, Dixie Mahy, Toshie Marra, Carol Ditzler, John Forbes, Winnifred Gelenter, Henry Andrea Nguyen, Hoang Quoc Nguyen, Valerie Robertson, Gilbert, Kim Hicks, Ellen Knollman, Patricia Krug, Miyoko Schinner, and Clarence Yee. Sarah Lee, Veronica Lefebvre, Julie Mangin, Ellen Mann, Josephine McDowell, Wayne Olson, Mike Thompson, Finally our deepest thanks to Tony Cooper of San Ramon, Tanner Wray. California, who has kept our computers up and running since Sept. 1983. Without Tony, this series of books on the Web Library of Congress: Ronald Jackson, Ronald Roache. would not have been possible. Lane Medical Library at Stanford University. This book, no doubt and alas, has its share of errors. These, of course, are solely the responsibility of William Shurtleff. Contra Costa County Central Library and Lafayette Library: Carole Barksdale, Kristen Wick, Barbara Furgason, Sherry This bibliography and sourcebook was written with the Cartmill, Linda Barbero. hope that someone will write a detailed and well-documented history of this subject. Harvard University’s Five Botanical Libraries (especially Arnold Arboretum Library): Jill Gelmers Thomas. French translation: Martine Liguori of Lafayette, California, for ongoing, generous, and outstanding help since the early 1980s. Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF YUBA - THE FILM THAT FORMS... 5 INTRODUCTION What is yuba? inaccurate term. Yuba is not the skin of tofu. It no longer If you have ever simmered a pot of milk over very low has anything to do with tofu, except that both are made from heat or set a bowl of hot milk aside to cool, you have no soymilk. doubt noticed the thin, delicate fi lm that soon forms on the In Japan today the word “yuba” is written either with two milk’s surface. The longer it is allowed to set, the fi rmer and Japanese hiragana characters or with the two Chinese (kanji) thicker it becomes. And if you have ever tried lifting this characters that mean “hot water” + “leaf.” In 1843 these two fi lm off and tasting it, you may well have found it to be soft, kanki characters were fi rst used to mean yuba in the Tsukue warm, and delicious. no Chiri. The twin facts that (1) the word “yuba” is written In the same way, if fairly thick soymilk is gently heated in Japanese hiragana script, and that (2) the Japanese do not in fl at and open pans at about 80-90°C, a thin cream-yellow, presently use the traditional Chinese characters (“bean curd” water-insoluble fi lm soon covers its surface. In Japan this + “skin”) suggest that the Japanese may have developed yuba fi lm is called yuba, and since ancient times it has been before they learned about it from China. considered a true delicacy. Removing the fi rst fi lm from the Why not call it “tofu skin”? First, yuba no longer has soymilk surface (by carefully inserting a long skewer or anything to do with tofu. Second, the word “skin” is not shaft beneath it, then hanging it up to dry) makes way for the appealing or appetizing in English. Third, “tofu skin” can be rapid formation of the next fi lm. Many fi lms can be removed confused with “pressed tofu sheets.” Fourth, as of Nov. 2012, from the surface and hung up to dry. The fi rst fi lm removed the term “tofu skin” has almost never been used historically. is generally considered to be the highest quality and the last It appears only twice in the body of this book. the lowest. Yuba is also nutritious, containing 55% protein Our philosophy of naming foreign foods: Our main and 25% vegetable oil on a dry weight basis. purpose in giving English-language names to Asian soyfoods Yuba is easily prepared at home, and
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