MAKING A LIST, CHECKING IT TWICE: THE STYLISH SET’S HOLIDAY MUST-HAVES, PLUS: BERNARD ARNAULT- GIVES AND LED LVMH HAS ONCE AGAIN DO’S. PAGES INCREASED ITS STAKE IN 7 TO 9 HERMES. PAGE 2

THE ‘MISSES’ SYNDROME Once Vibrant Sector Forced to Reinvent

By EVAN CLARK

THE BATTLE FOR THE MISSES’ CUSTOMER — WWD once a raging front in the retail war — has become more of a sideline skirmish, leaving specialty stores WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2011 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 that relied too much on the once-lucrative consumer segment to face dramatic change. The Talbots Inc., which has closed stores and suf- fered declining revenues, on Tuesday batted away what it considered to be a low-ball offer to acquire its operations. Instead, the company said it would explore “strategic alternatives” with financial ad- viser Perella Weinberg Partners — Wall Street speak for hanging out the For Sale sign. Earlier this month, Charming Shoppes Inc. did much the same when it revealed plans to divest the Fashion Bug chain and hired Barclays Capital to, again, pursue “strategic alternatives.” Talbots is said to have drawn the interest of both financial and strategic players. One possibility, the acquisition-minded Ascena Retail Group Inc., which operates the Dress Barn chain, and is also consid- ered a possible buyer of Charming Shoppes. But, in general, the category is simply not getting lots of love. Call it the misses’ crunch. And compa- nies across the segment are feeling it. Coldwater Creek Inc. and Christopher & Banks Corp., as well as Talbots, are cutting their store base by 12 to 15 percent each. “It’s a zero-sum game and any market share somebody is gaining is at the expense of somebody else,” said Arnold Aronson, managing director of re- tail strategies at Kurt Salmon. “Some of the attrac- tiveness of the department stores, in terms of their multiple brand options, is creating pressure on the Pretty SEE PAGE 12 IN WWD TODAY

Selfridges’

Perennials Redesign ▼  PAGE 4 Look familiar? Frida Giannini dug into Gucci’s RETAIL: The U.K.’s archives for pre-fall, resurrecting this delicate Selfridges is Oshibana floral print from the early Eighties. revitalizing She also showed more masculine looks for its women’s what she described as “a collection of nuances designer gallery and subtleties that strikes a modern balance with new between strong and soft.” For additional news shops and on the season, see page 10. exclusive product. Big Moves At Bebe PAGE 4 RETAIL: Bebe, known for its sexy styles, is transforming itself to grow the business, as well as adding a new fragrance and entering bridal. Nike Battles Costs PAGE 2 FINANCIAL:Net gain at Nike came under pressure as product costs ate into margins, though second- quarter revenues rose 18.4 percent.

PHOTO BY GIOVANNA PAVESI 2 WWD wednesday, december 21, 2011 WWD.COM LVMH Again Increases Stake in Hermès Textile Firm Thieves Sentenced A MANhATTAN DISTRIcT court sentenced a mother and In an interview with French son to between four and 12 years in state prison Tuesday for By Joelle DIDeRIch daily le Figaro last week, Bertrand stealing more than $16 million from two textile companies Puech, the executive chairman in Soho in New York city. PARIS — lVMh Moët hennessy of emile hermès Sarl, which rep- The defendants Judy Del Galdo, 67, and her son Joseph louis Vuitton again increased resents the family shareholders, Del Galdo, 46, were arrested in June for pilfering $6 million in its stake in luxury firm hermès declared the war with lVMh over, funds from hi-Fashion Fabrics Inc. and $10 million from its sis- International, just a day after the although he reiterated his call for ter company, Timeless Treasures Fabrics Inc. Judy Del Galdo hermès family announced it had the luxury giant to withdraw. worked for the family-owned firms for 22 years as a bookkeep- completed the creation of a nonlist- lVMh chairman and chief ex- er. According to the court, from August 2003 to April 2010, Del ed holding company grouping more ecutive officer Bernard Arnault sur- Galdo funneled the stolen monies into her son’s bank account. than 50 percent of its share capital prised markets when he revealed in Defendants were ordered to pay $15,523,139 each in restitu- in a bid to ward off a takeover. october 2010 that he had accumu- tion to the victims, of which they have already paid $850,000. According to a declaration pub- lated a 17.1 percent stake in hermès “This mother-son duo made it their family business to lished by France’s stock market au- via cash-settled equity swaps that steal millions of dollars and squander the funds on jets, thority AMF on Tuesday, lVMh on allowed him to circumvent the yachts, cars and other luxury items,” said District Attorney Dec. 15 upped its stake in the maker usual market rules requiring firms cyrus Vance Jr. “This sentence and restitution order will of Birkin handbags and silk scarves to declare share purchases. help make the victims whole.”

to 22.3 percent from 21.4 percent aitre Although Arnault said he had no In addition to spending millions on living the high life, previously. It now retains 16 percent m plans for a full takeover, the move the defendants also diverted $6.7 million to Joseph Del of the firm’s voting rights, crossing rattled hermès, which has vowed to Galdo’s now-defunct ambulance company. the threshold of 15 percent that re- protect itself from what it considers on Nov. 18, the Del Galdos plead guilty to grand larceny in Dominique quires market notification. Y an unwelcome suitor. the first degree and money laundering in the first degree. Judy A spokeswoman for hermès said Bernard Arnault In Tuesday’s AMF filing, lVMh Del Galdo also pleaded guilty to forgery in the second degree.

it did not have any comment on the Photo b said it would consider purchasing The defendants were convicted on all counts. AMF filing. more shares in hermès depending  —AleXAnDrASTeiGrAD on Dec. 14, hermès said Julie Guerrand had been on circumstances and market conditions, but reiterat- appointed president of the holding company, dubbed ed that it did not seek to take over the firm. It also said h51. Guerrand belongs to the sixth generation of heirs it holds cash-settled equity swaps covering 205,997 BeaUty Beat to Thierry hermès, who founded the company in 1837. shares in hermès, which expire from April 4, 2014. Burberry Weighing Fragrance Options PARIS — Burberry Group and Inter Parfums SA are in talks about establishing a new operating structure for the Margin Pressures Limit Nike Net Gain Burberry fragrance and beauty business. America, china and emerging markets offsetting a “As there can be no assurance that an agreement will be By ARNolD J. KARR double-digit descent in europe. reached, Burberry has exercised its right to evaluate the company executives delivered mixed messages purchase price for the unexpired term for the existing li- NIKe INc. exceeDeD analysts’ expectations for about europe, with bullish expectations for its in- cense,” Inter Parfums SA stated. “In this process, Burberry its second-quarter profits as the company combated volvement with the Summer olympics in london has until July 31, 2012, to determine whether it wishes to higher costs and weaker margins with a 20 percent and european championships tempered by concerns buy out the unexpired portion of the license or continue the increase in its footwear and apparel businesses. about general economic conditions and the poten- existing license, which runs through Dec. 31, 2017.” For the three months ended Nov. 30, the tially erosive effects of currency fluctuation. Donald Inter Parfums SA stock closed Tuesday down 13.7 percent Beaverton, ore.-based sports gear giant boosted its Blair, chief financial officer, said he expects Nike’s to 16.84 euros, or $22.01 at current exchange. Burberry stock net income 2.6 percent to $469 million, or $1 a di- gross margin to remain under pressure and finish the ended the day up 1.5 percent to 11.68 pounds, or $18.30. luted share, 6 cents better than the 94 cents expect- current fiscal year down about 160 basis points from  —JenniferWeil ed, on average, by analysts. Year-ago profits came to fiscal 2011, a steeper drop than forecast earlier. In ad- $457 million, or 94 cents. dition to currency issues, he cited the promotional Total revenues moved up 18.4 percent to $5.73 bil- tenure of business during the just concluded quarter. Counterfeit Perfume Trafficker Gets One Year lion from $4.84 billion, but a 23.9 percent increase “We expected improvement in discounts [in the WAShINGToN — U.S. officials announced Tuesday that a in cost of sales, to $3.28 billion, lowered gross mar- second quarter] but they came out about flat,” he federal judge sentenced a chinese perfume importer to 12 gin 260 basis points to 42.7 percent of sales from 45.3 told analysts on the company’s late afternoon con- months in prison for trafficking in counterfeit perfume. percent a year ago. The firm said that higher product ference call. U.S. District court Judge Sandra l. Townes handed down costs “more than offset the positive effects of grow- however, with the strength of Nike’s brands and the sentence to Shaoxiong Zhou, 42, of Shantou, Guangdong, ing sales in our direct-to-consumer operations, price modification in input pressures, he added that he ex- china, in Brooklyn on Monday and also ordered Zhou to pay increases and ongoing product cost reduction initia- pects the firm to resume year-on-year margin growth $20,000 in restitution. tives.” Selling and administrative expenses declined “over time.” Assistant Attorney General lanny A. Breuer of the to 31.8 percent of sales from 33.3 percent in the sec- Blair also projected that revenue increases in Justice Department’s criminal division and U.S. Attorney ond quarter of last year. the back half of Nike’s fiscal year would be slightly loretta e. lynch of the eastern District of New York made Nike’s closely watched futures orders metric, re- above the 13 percent growth in futures orders. Year- the announcement. flecting footwear and apparel scheduled for delivery to-date revenues were up 17.9 percent, to $11.81 bil- In January, U.S. customs and Border Protection officials through April, totaled $8.9 billion, 13 percent above lion from $10.02 billion. Net income rose 9.6 percent seized a cargo container containing 37,000 units of perfume the 2010 mark. to $1.11 billion, or $2.36 a diluted share, from $1.02 bearing bogus trademarks from well-known brands, includ- In the quarter, footwear sales rose 19.6 percent billion, or $2.08. ing lacoste, Polo Black and Armani code. to $3.09 billion, surpassed on a percentage basis by The company made frequent reference to the Zhou admitted to shipping the container to a facility in apparel’s 20.9 percent expansion to $1.68 billion. By strength of its category strategy, with the executives not- Staten Island, N.Y. Separately, he admitted to offering to region, growth was strongest in Greater china, up ing the strength of its basketball products despite the supply counterfeit perfume to prospective buyers at a las 34.9 percent to $650 million; emerging markets, up NBA lockout. Although highly confident about its plans Vegas trade show in August 2010. 25.6 percent to $948 million, and its largest market, for the olympics, european championships and the officials said the case is part of a federal investigation North America, ahead 21.5 percent to $2.07 billion. National Football league apparel license it takes over into counterfeit perfume and cosmetics being conducted operating income grew 1.8 percent to $621 mil- from Reebok next year, Blair noted that those programs by U.S. Immigration and customs enforcement-homeland lion, with double-digit improvement in North had not yet begun to affect it future order position. Security Investigations. —KriSTielliS

toDay on WWD.CoM To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is SeCtorS in thiS iSSUe [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. ■ RETAIL: See COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. FINANcIAL 1,2,12 dENIm 6 more images of VOLUME 202, NO. 128. WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2011. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily BEAUTY 2 mEdIA 7 (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and Bebe’s evolving two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, RETAIL 4,5,12 pEOpLE 7,8,9 look at WWD.com/ which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY retail-news. 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial ■ EYE: See more Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional images of They mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Daily QUote Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O .Box 503, Are Wearing: New RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR York Shoppers at DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA WWD.com/eye. 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as ■ FASHION: See printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have Not every woman the latest pre-fall no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us collections at know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four buys jeans when WWD.com/fashion-news. weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the ■ BUSINESS: request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or she’s pregnant, but More business via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our news and daily subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe markets coverage would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at it’s pretty close. at WWD.com/ P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED — Lisa Hendrickson, destination Maternity. business-news. MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND

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w21a002a.indd 1 12/20/11 7:48 PM 12202011194950 You talking to me? PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE

HAL REITER OF HERBERT MINES ASSOCIATES // INDUSTRY LEADER AND LOYAL READER REACH EVERYBODY WHO’S ANYBODY IN FASHION 4 WWD wednesday, december 21, 2011

A watercolor from Tanya Ling Tamer Bebe Finding Its Stride for Selfridges. ping up special events and social By DaviD Moin Emilia media, with 1.9 million Facebook Fabricant fans gained in the past year. she also “i’M too sexy” is something Bebe said the strategy focuses on creating managers might never say about in-store visuals for “clearer fashion their brand, though they’ve thought statements” and easier shopping. about it. stores in northPark Center in Dallas there’s still room for those short, and aventura, Fla., have been remod- deep v plunge cocktail dresses and eled, inside and out, and are being superskinny Bebe-logoed jeans, but monitored as prototypes. the south as the 35-year-old contemporary col- Beach, Fla., unit was also remodeled lection transforms to a head-to-toe though the facade was retained due business, it’s showing some tamer to landmark considerations. sides. a bridal collection will Bebe sport, the active, be launched in March. Bebe’s Lululemon-inspired subbrand, was fourth fragrance called Wishes brought back into Bebe stores and & Dreams launches late april. online earlier this year after a hia- a new lifestyle shoe strategy is tus, though the Bebe sport shops s Wishes & Dreams, Bebe’s under development. a broader upcoming fragrance. were all closed. overseas, licensed array of denim and dresses is Bebe stores have been proliferating, already evident, and the com- with 102 operating in 20 countries, pany is looking to gain ground about half the net of three and 20 additional locations seen in wear-to-work apparel, years ago. operating by June 30, the end of the where the look has been Humbled but not de- company’s fiscal year. more “dressed to kill” than feated, Mashouf has estab- the upcoming Wishes & Dreams dressed for office. lished a new team, which fragrance, developed and distributed “Bebe is back and ex- has been striving to restore by inter Parfums inc., is described as panding market share,” historic profit levels and “a dreamy blend of fresh florals, sen- stated emilia Fabricant, orchestrate strategies to sual woods and white amber.” Prices Selfridges Revitalizes president of Bebe stores turn the business around. will range from $38 for a 30-ml. bottle inc., during a preview of Fabricant, formerly divi- to $70 for a 100-ml. bottle. Bebe’s debut bridal collection sional merchandise manager Bridal will be sold by appoint- Its Women’s Galleries at the Gansevoort Hotel in new for Barneys Co-op, founder ment at four Bebe flagships: oak york earlier this month. “the 25- to and chief executive officer at Cadeau street, Chicago; soHo, n.y.; Rodeo 35-year-old woman — that’s still the Maternity, and president and chief Drive, Los angeles, and aventura, By nina Jones core, but we do see it expanding.” merchandising officer at Charlotte and online. initially, there will be Developing a bridal business for Russe, came on board 15 months ago 10 gowns in silk taffeta, silk satin, eaRLy next yeaR, selfridges will unveil the the first time, said Fabricant, is “a nat- and has since added new vice presi- charmeuse, georgette, organza and first phase of its new women’s designer galleries, ural extension for us.…the gowns are dents for marketing, visual, e-com- chiffon, and corsets for a custom a 17,000-square foot space that fuses the store’s timeless but modern. that’s Bebe.” merce and international, and an exec- look. they will range in price from neoclassical architecture with elements of technology. Bebe was founded by majority utive vice president of merchandising $950 to $2,500, falling in a zone be- the room will host eight in-store boutiques shareholder Manny Mashouf in 1976 Renee Bell, who is on her second tour tween David’s Bridal and J. Crew. for Chanel, Prada, Lanvin, Celine, alexander of duty at Bebe after once a gown is selected it’s ordered McQueen, Balenciaga, Givenchy and Dries van an interlude with for a 60- to 90-day delivery. noten. interspersed among those boutiques will Rami Kashou, Bebe’s Metropark Usa. “i wanted to create beautiful be collections by edgy labels including Gareth bridal designer, with a there are signs of wedding gowns with a custom feel Pugh, Haider ackermann, Rick owens, Comme draped silk taffeta gown. progress, attributed and attention to detail,” said Rami Des Garçons and anne Demeulemeester. sebastian to advances this year Kashou, Bebe’s bridal designer who Manes, director of women’s wear at selfridges, in product quality, in- was runner-up on “Project Runway” said: “the concept of the room evolved in tandem ventory control and in season four, and is a contestant with the selection of these designers, in order to full-price selling. For in the upcoming “Project Runway: offer customers the collections they will love and a the quarter ended all stars.” Kashou characterized the place to discover the exciting looks of each season.” oct. 1, net income Bebe gowns as “feminine, elegant, a focus of the room, which has been designed rose to $2.4 million timeless and romantic” and “a cel- by Jamie Fobert architects, will be a digital in- from $300,000 in the ebration of the hour-glass figure.” stallation by the British artist Daniel Brown, who year-ago period, and veils, clutches, jewelry and gifts has designed a triptych of screens that will show a comparable-store will also be offered, as well as a line continually evolving image. Meanwhile, the chang- sales were up 7 per- of 10 bridesmaids’ dresses, priced ing rooms will feature three cent to $126.3 million, from $150 to $300, that are suitable digital screens with built-in compared with $115.3 for occasions other than weddings cameras, allowing customers million. the stock and are either stretchy or flowy; long to snap digital pictures or vid- has been performing or midlength. “they’re cool, sexy eos of themselves, so they can well and set a fresh cocktail dresses,” Kashou said. see a look from different an- 52-week high of $8.48 that’s consistent with Bebe’s past gles. they will then have the in trading on tuesday. marketing, which typically evoked ag- option of e-mailing the im- also last quarter, traf- gressive, confident women fit for real- ages to themselves or friends. fic was flat yet the con- ity housewives shows, à la tie-ins with in a nod to selfridges’ origi- version rate — turning eva Longoria and Kim Kardashian, nal 1910 decor, the room’s browsers into shop- though it’s changing as the offering floor is crafted from 41 types pers — was up 7 per- grows in dimension. “Bebe started of marble, while marble pan- cent. Units per trans- using new models last summer. i total- els will also be placed along action rose 6 percent. ly noticed the difference. it’s sexy in the room’s windows, allowing significantly, the a tasteful way — not trashy,” observed light to flood into the space. company seems re- retail analyst Black. the space, which will open sponsive to customers, “they’ve softened the edge. in time for London Fashion absorbing feedback off the collection is more age appro- Week in February, will also iannacone More iMages of BeBe’s Facebook, tuning into priate,” said Dana telsey, ceo and offer customers the services A Balenciaga exclusive evolving look at women’s wardrob- chief research officer of telsey of an in-house tailor to pro- for Selfridges. thomas ing needs and getting advisory Group. there’s also great- vide alterations to their pur- by WWD.com/ quicker to seize upon er variety in the mix which should chases. to mark the gallery’s launch, illustrator retail-news. sales trends like its appeal to a wider range of women, tanya Ling has created a series of ethereal wa- photos fast-fashion competi- telsey added, citing improve- tercolor illustrations to represent what selfridges tors. For example, a ments in denim, knits, sweaters, calls “the modern luxury woman.” the illustrations at a time when bridge, juniors and Chanel-inspired shawl collar bouclé outerwear and jewelry. Jumpsuits will be featured as part of selfridges’ advertising misses ruled fashion and the con- jacket, priced at $189, was present- have also recently performed well. and on selfridges’ Web site. temporary category barely existed. ed last fall as part of a suit, though However, the wear-to-work, woven alannah Weston, creative director of selfridges, For many years, the pioneering chain women were buying it as a separate. and footwear categories are “works added: “the Women’s Designer Galleries at maintained a singular status for its “i could see right away Bebe reacted in progress,” telsey noted. selfridges will showcase some of fashion’s most excit- daring ways, though in recent times and now there are more jackets, along asked if Bebe is indeed getting ing designers in a creative setting that embraces the has been cut down by the rise of com- the same lines,” said retail analyst tamer for a wider appeal, Fabricant expectations of today’s modern woman. We know that petitors such as Forever 21, Zara and Jennifer Black. “they’re perfect for replied: “everything we do starts our customers are sophisticated, global trend-makers H&M. since the recession, the $500 wearing with jeans or with nice pants. with Manny’s vision of contemporary and we look forward to presenting beautiful designer million specialty chain has closed Women want to mix and match.” fashion with a sexy, feminine edge,” pieces in a serene and elegant environment.” stores, shed $100 million in revenues a “360-degree approach” to recap- though, she added, “we have upped the first gallery will be followed by two further and has endured a decline in profit- turing customers has been adopted, the sophistication and design quotient areas of the women’s designer galleries that are ability, which in the latest fiscal year Fabricant said, involving launching and are offering versatility that’s get- due to open in phases, one later in 2012 and the ended July 2 came to $6.1 million, or products and categories, and step- ting us increased closet share.” other in 2013.

w21a004b;8.indd 1 12/20/11 7:32 PM 12202011193247 WWD wednesday, december 21, 2011 5 WWD.COM Pomellato Opens on Rodeo Pandora Appoints New CEO

market, Asian tourists and hollywood stars. By Joelle DiDerich Björn By MArcy MeDinA Tilda Swinton, who has appeared in the Gulden company’s television and print ads for the past PAriS — Danish jewelry maker BeVerly hillS —italian jeweler Pomellato three years, is set to host an opening party next Pandora has appointed Björn has opened its largest boutique to date, a month during awards season. Gulden as chief executive officer, 5,000-square-foot, two-story space at 320 rodeo Morante predicted that once chinese cus- capping a five-month search for rn

Drive here. Following U.S. locations in new tomers begin traveling to the States en masse, an executive capable of turning O york, Bal harbour, Fla., and chicago, the around its waning fortunes.

store, framed by a stone facade emulat- Gulden is managing director of Fernk ld

ing roman arches, is the first to house The new the Germany-based Deichmann TO both the signature collection and its Group, europe’s largest shoe re- Pomellato Ber younger brand, Dodo. store. tailer, and president and ceo of BY Designed by architect raffaella its rack room and off Broadway

Bortoluzzi, the first-floor space housing U.S. retail chains. Before that, he PHOTO Pomellato’s fine jewelry is composed spent eight years with Adidas. from neutral stone materials with black he will take over on March 1 Pandora said the announce- lacquer and gold accents, while the up- from interim ceo Marcello Bottoli, ment would have no impact on its stairs Dodo space features gold walls who was appointed in August after guidance for 2011. with bright red accents. retail prices his predecessor, Mikkel Vendelin Known for its charm bracelets, range from several hundred dollars for olesen, resigned following a profit Pandora, which sells its jewelry a Dodo charm bracelet to $5,000 and up- warning that caused the compa- in more than 65 countries, previ- wards for fine jewelry. ny’s shares to fall by nearly 65 per- ously said that revenue this year According to chief executive officer cent in a single session. will be in line with the 6.67 bil- Andrea Morante, the company is expand- Allan leighton, chairman of lion Danish kroner, or $1.19 bil- ing its retail footprint geographically. Pandora, said: “Björn is an out- lion at current exchange, it post- “We are following a typical standard standing executive who has im- ed in 2010. originally, the firm whereby when you have a fairly good pressed me with his knowledge anticipated revenue growth of european platform, you come to the States at los Angeles will be an obvious entry point. and hands-on experience from “no less than 30 percent.” the closest entry point, the east coast, and work “Trying to follow the chinese consumer will be many years in the retail and whole- its sales plummeted by around your way west,” he said. calling the chicago name of the game in the following years, and sale business around the world.” 30 percent in July after olesen store, which also opened this year, “the real making our next big retail push in china will be he also praised the performance hiked prices to compensate for test for the rest of America after new york,” a priority,” he said. Also on his hit list are stores of Bottoli, who will become deputy increased gold and silver costs, Morante said the Beverly hills location was in Tokyo, Singapore and South coast Plaza in chairman of the Pandora board a tactic that did not go well with strategic in terms of reaching the california costa Mesa, calif. once Gulden takes up his post. thrifty consumers.

w21a005a.indd 2 12/20/11 7:40 PM 12202011194048

PLUS: MORE PRE-FALL FROM GUCCI, REEM ACRA, TIBI, DSQUARED2 WWD STYLE AND MCQ. ▲ PAGE 10

Christmas Stories

With the holidays officially here, WWD caught up with a slew of fashionistas for the dish on their holiday routines present and past. Along with the vintage shot above, James Mischka shared plans for his and Mark Badgley’s “big, traditional, but gluten-free” California Christmas. For more from Alber Elbaz, Tor y Burch, Rachel Roy and a host of revelers, see pages 8 and 9, and look for part two in Thursday’s WWD.

MEMO PAD ROMAN LEGION: After Milan and The advertising campaign will break Venice, Moschino opts for a sun- in February. — ALESSANDRA TURRA kissed Rome backdrop for its spring- CHANGE OF HABIT: summer advertising campaign. MAY LAFORCE BE WITH YOU: James LaForce Stefano Pilati has Shot by Juergen Teller, images gave revelers at his annual holiday broken with feature Polish model Kasia Struss party last week a preview of “24 Hour tradition by standing in front of the Colosseum Catwalk,” the fashion competition entrusting Yves wearing a torero-inspired look. show that makes its debut on Lifetime Saint Laurent’s To further underscore the Italian on Jan. 10. LaForce serves as a judge spring-summer mood, a vintage red Fiat 500 car ap- on the show and fellow judges Cynthia campaign to pears in the shot. Rowley and Derek Blasberg popped into David Sims, after “‘Viva l’Italia’ is the slogan which the India-themed party, along with nine seasons A Valentino image, shot by Deborah Turbeville. best represents the new Moschino Bibhu Mohapatra, Keanan Duffty, Lisa of working campaign,” said the brand’s creative Mayock, Doug and Ben Burkman, Fern with Ines van Bijoch and male model Clement Chabernaud. director Rossella Jardini. “I wanted to show Mallis, PVH’s Ken Wyse, Geoffrey Bradfield, Lamsweerde and One image shows the four women stand- once again how much we love Italy, which is Hearst’s Michael Clinton and Scott Sassa, Vinoodh Matadin. ing tall in the grass against a shadowy one of the most beautiful countries, able to Seventeen’s Ann Shoket and House This confirms a Mariacarla Boscono in an stone wall, each clad in a rose or deep red stand out for the excellence of the Made in Beautiful’s Newell Turner. report in WWD Yves Saint Laurant ad. dress with richly embroidered details. Italy and its sartorial tradition.” From the preview clips, it looks like on Nov. 25. The Citing photographer-actress Tina LaForce assumes the Simon Cowell acid- ads, which are scheduled to break in Modotti and artist Georgia O’Keeffe as in- tongue role on the show, spouting off February issues worldwide, feature model spiration, Valentino creative directors one-liners such as, “This is 24 Hour Mariacarla Boscono sporting hyper-stylized Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli Catwalk, not 24 hour sidewalk,” “How eyebrows. Guido Palau did hair and Diane described their spring collection as do you wield power with titty tassels?” Kendal the makeup. — JOELLE DIDERICH “linked to Mexico as a state of mind,” and “It’s kitty literal.” and the campaign as “a fantasy setting Rowley, for her part, claims, “Of SAY OLE: Valentino tapped artsy photogra- for a new poetic femininity.” the three judges, I’m definitely the pher Deborah Turbeville for its spring adver- The designers cited their enthusiasm smartest, funniest, nicest and most tising campaign, which breaks in January. for Turbeville’s “subversively elegant beautiful-est.” Shot in Pozos, Mexico, in an aban- aesthetic vision.” Perhaps in the spirit of the show’s doned mining town in the Guanajuato Pierre Orlando handled makeup and title, LaForce donned a pair of high- region, the campaign brings together an Mark Hampton worked the models’ hair, heeled pumps and worked a makeshift international cast of Pretty Young Things: which was twisted into wreathlike braids. runway at the end of the evening to Bette Franke, Maud Franzen, Fei Fei Sun, Zuzanna — CYNTHIA MARTENS Moschino takes to the streets of Rome. whoops from the crowd. — DAVID LIPKE 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2011 A Fashionably Festive Guide to Gifting,

Alber Elbaz Liz on vacation in house in East Hampton. It was a weekend I’ll Goldwyn Argentina, 2009. never forget.” Gifts you’ll give? “Every year I give a handmade bound book of photographs from the previous summer to close family and friends.” And on your wish list? “A night at The Carlyle hotel would be an indulgent gift to receive from my wife. There’s something special about being able to escape from your everyday but only travel a few blocks.” What will you be eating…and where? “I’ll be in Palm Beach; anything my wife decides to cook I’ll love!”

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Favorite holiday memory? “What I love is a Christmas tree decorated with pomanders — oranges studded with cloves.” What will you be eating…and where? “I will be with my uncle and aunt in the Périgord, so it will be a lot of foie gras!”

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Favorite holiday memory? “My first happy new year party in my new house in Egypt.” Gifts you’ll give? “Women’s and men’s shoes.” What’s on the menu? “We start with a huge And on your wish list? “Anything coming from antipasto, then pasta with a fresh tomato the heart.” and crab sauce, followed by shrimp scampi, What will you be eating…and where? stuffed clams oreganato, baked lobster, MARK BADGLEY AND JAMES MISCHKA, JACQUI GETTY “Vietnamese food in Saigon — hopefully spicy calamari salad and, of course, tons of BADGLEY MISCHKA Favorite holiday memory? “Being at a New and delicious!” Italian pastries.” Favorite holiday memory? “The year we Year’s Eve party and going into labor and having started Badgley Mischka, we swapped my daughter Gia [Coppola] on New Year’s Day.” WES GORDON PRABAL GURUNG our New York apartment with a couple in Gifts you’ll give? “Special books that are Favorite holiday memory? “Christmas Favorite holiday memory? “Going to Tiger Tops Montmarte for Christmas week and flew chosen individually for each person, like mornings! Nothing beats the anticipation of in Nepal with my mother and father when I ourselves over on the Concorde. It was the Antonioni’s ‘Blow Up’ and ‘The Marriage Plot’ rushing down to see what Santa brought.” was younger.” most magical week you could ever imagine — by Jeffrey Eugenides.” Gifts you’ll give? “Diptyque’s Feu de bois Gifts you’ll give? “Love and more love!” snowy, crisp, full of promise!” What will you be eating…and where? “Gia and candles, to make any home smell like there’s a And on your wish list? “Charitable donations And on your wish list? “We’re giving each other I will be in Napa, eating black ink octopus roaring fire in the fireplace.” from friends and family are always wonderful custom blazers from Alan Couture.” pasta and drinking wine. My favorite is the And on your wish list? “A new watch — there’s to receive and I am never one to turn down What will you be eating...and where? “A big, Coppola Blancaneaux white this year.” one I’ve had my eye on.” holiday treats.” traditional, but gluten-free, Christmas with What will you be eating…and where? “I’m so What will you be eating…and where? “My Mark’s family in California, and a very intimate ALBER ELBAZ excited to go home for a Christmas dinner cousin has a restaurant in Chinatown, Thakali champagne and caviar fete at our place in What’s on your wish list? “I always feel — turkey, mashed potatoes, etc. Basically, Kitchen, and I love the momos there.” Palm Beach.” embarrassed when people give me presents Thanksgiving part two.” so I prefer giving them. JENNI KAYNE Books are always good, PAMELA LOVE Favorite holiday memory? “Taking [my son] Tor y Burch music is great and food Favorite holiday memory? “Once over New Tanner sledding two years ago in Alta and on the is wonderful to give and Year’s, a group of my friends and I went taking [my daughter] Ripley there this year for slopes with to get.” upstate and stayed in a cabin in the woods her first Christmas.” her sons. Holiday travel plans? “My during a blizzard. We got bored so we walked Gifts you’ll give? “APC quilts, The Elder fantasy would be going to a local dive bar wrapped in blankets (and a Statesmen cashmere and goodies from to India.” Snuggie). By the end of the night I was playing Heath.” drums for the bar’s house jazz band.” And on your wish list? “A Celine Seau bag and TORY BURCH What’s on the menu? “I love warm apple a set of All-Clad cookware.” Favorite holiday memory? cider with a little Kanon vodka and “Watching ‘Rudolph the caramel, and comfort foods like roasted Red-Nosed Reindeer’ with vegetables. Typical holiday fare, except my brothers every year, I’m vegetarian and engaged to a vegan.” and my parents reading ‘A Christmas Carol’ to us — RACHEL ROY a tradition I passed on to Favorite holiday memory? “Going to my children.” the beach in Northern Cali where we Dennis Basso, Gifts you’ll give? “Ted lived with my brother and mother after age 2, and Muehling candlesticks opening gifts on Christmas morning.” Santa at for my stepdaughter; Gifts you’ll give? “My Heart of Haiti Macy’s. paddleboards for my jewelry collection, which employs a

NOA GRIFFEL boys; The New York Times mother-daughter team in Haiti that book of articles from your handmakes the jewelry. I also will give birthday for everyone.” gift cards for the Caudalie Spa at The PHOTO BY And on your wish list? Plaza hotel and La Perla underpinnings.” “Subscription to The World And on your wish list? “More extended Pamela of Interiors, Feng Shui lazy days in the sun listening to the Love consultation, a package of ocean, a dinner with Deepak Chopra, SoulCycle classes.” a large white quilted Chanel bag and What will you be eating… a private plane with a pilot. A girl can and where? “My boys and dream, right?” I are going to Myanmar and Thailand — fresh DENNIS BASSO fish, shrimp and great rice Favorite holiday memory? “When and curry dishes.” [husband] Michael [Cominotto] and I built our house in Water Mill and FRIDA GIANNINI, GUCCI celebrated our first Christmas there 15 Favorite holiday memory? years ago.” “Decorating the Christmas Gifts you’ll give? “My croc evening bags, tree with my family.” faux fur throws and scented candles. What’s on your wish list? Also, Hermès blankets, crystal serving pieces ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA “Going to the mountains from Tiffany and the new Eleanor Lambert Gifts you’ll give? “I would like to give pictures to ski in Saint Moritz.” book, ‘Still Here.’” of cinema personalities taken by famous And on your wish list? “Royal Water by Creed, photographers.” REED KRAKOFF T. Anthony garment bag, a new subscription And on your wish list? “A modern art vase in Favorite holiday memory? to Hello and Majesty, an extra-long black blown glass from the Sixties. Hint, hint!” “The year when my family cashmere scarf and a little more blue and white What will you be eating...and where? “I’m going and I got snowed in at our antique china. I don’t need it but I love it!” back to my family in Naples, where on our WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2011 9 WWD.COM Getting, Going and Gorging, Part I*

A young Gia Coppola, 3, in Prabal Rome. Gurung and his parents.

Christmas dinner table I’ll be sure to find sponge for Christmas. I was so excited to receive it he does not need another cashmere sweater or reindeers. I can’t say it was my favorite thing cakes (babà) and puff pastries (sfogliatelle).” that I put it on straight away and added a red cuff links.” at the age of 15, but it’s something we laugh lipstick sticker on my lips!” And on your wish list? “Quality time with about now.” ANTONIO MARRAS Gifts you’ll give? “Handmade gingerbread my family is gift enough, but baubles from Gifts you’ll give? “Coqui Coqui scents from Favorite holiday memory? “When the mayor of my cookies with custom decorations.” Pomellato are always appreciated.” Colette.” city, Alghero, asked us to set up a huge Christmas And on your wish list? “My birthday is also Dec. What will you be eating…and where? “I can’t And on your wish list? “A pair of Anita Ko tree in the oldest city square. We involved the 25 so I’ve selfishly bought myself a couple be sure what I’ll be eating, but I’ll definitely pyramid diamond stud earrings.” entire elementary school where my son Efisio presents already: a piece of art by Niagara at be sipping a rum punch with Andy in the What will you be eating…and where? “My studied. All the kids created huge ornaments.” the “Destroy All Monsters” show, and a Norma Dominican Republic as our children play in mother cooks traditional southern style food What will you be eating…and where? “After Kamali nude and black lace dress that looks the sand.” and I always overindulge — peach-glazed an entire year spent traveling you need like lingerie.” ham and bread pudding with bourbon are my home…and eat traditional things, for instance PETRA ECCLESTONE absolute favorite.” fish and lobster soup, pork or lamb CRYSTAL LOURD Gifts you’ll give? “I have blown up pictures plus my favorite traditional Favorite holiday memory? from my wedding, which is sentimental, IRENE NEUWIRTH Alghero desserts.” “Coming down the stairs and but have bought my mum an amazing Gifts you’ll give? “I’m making an opal bracelet seeing Santa’s magic in handbag and my sister a piece of art that I for a very lucky friend. And my dog, Teddy, FIONA CIBANI, PORTS 1961 Colorado and then going out know she wanted.” gets whatever he wants, as usual.” Favorite holiday memory? for a family ski!” And on your wish list? “I have been dropping What will you be eating…and where? “I host a “Volunteering with my Gifts you’ll give? “Fur to hints to James, so hopefully he picked the trunk show every year for Christmas at Seaside children to feed the less my mom…football jerseys, right watch I wanted! And he always adds a Luxe at the Four Seasons Hualalai. There I fortunate and hand out RLX ski outfits and iPads new Birkin to my collection.” eat fresh fish and delicious fruits. Just after blankets.” to my boys…velvet blazer What will you be eating…and where? “I will be Christmas I go to San Miguel, where it’s all Gifts you’ll give? “A Ports and cashmere sweaters to cooking a turkey this year, the first time ever, delicious homemade Mexican food.” 1961 cashmere travel husband.” in L.A.” bag complete with scarf, What will you be eating…and SARA ZIFF, MODEL slippers and eye mask.” where? “In Aspen enjoying CONSTANCE JABLONSKI, MODEL Favorite holiday memory? “When my brother And on your wish list? “A sushi at Matsuhisa, Italian Gifts you’ll give? “A new iPad for my and I were little, our parents would keep us homemade card from my kids. at Campo de Fiori and home boyfriend.” guessing and speculate that the smallest box I just love saving their little cooking at Bonnie’s on the What will you be eating…and where? “French might contain, say, a collapsible hockey stick. creations.” mountain for lunch.” scallops called Coquilles Saint-Jacques in the This unlikely gift became a running joke every What will you be eating…and north of France with my family on Christmas, Christmas, so a few years ago we actually where? “Keeping it healthy at MICHELLE SMITH, MILLY and probably delicious cheese the week of bought a hockey stick, sawed it into pieces home. Thin tastes better!” Gifts you’ll give? “Thomas New Year’s Eve because we are going to the attached with hinges, and folded it into a the Tank Engine train mountain to ski.” small box under the tree.” LIZ GOLDWYN set for my son William, Gifts you’ll give? “Nicole Miller joined forces Favorite holiday memory? Irene a ‘princess watch’ for AMY SMILOVIC, TIBI with Indego Africa to create a great collection “I was about seven years Neuwirth’s my daughter Sophia and Favorite holiday memory? “Every year on of fair trade bracelets.” old and had begged for a festive theater tickets for my Christmas Eve my grandfather piled the And on your wish list? “Love, health and Fiorucci pooch husband Andy. He has family into the wagon and drove around happiness — with a bow on top.” outfit Teddy. politely informed me that for hours checking out all the Santas and * See Thursday’s paper for part II.

Jenni Kayne and Michelle her son, Tanner. Smith and her family having a beachy holiday.

A young Rachel Roy with her brother and mother. 10 WWD Wednesday, december 21, 2011

ColleCtions tibi Amy Smilovic Pre-Fall 2012 kept it simple with FOR MORE pRE-Fall, SEE seasonless pieces WWD.com/ ideal for runway. transition wardrobes. There MCQ were wool jackets For Alexander with knit McQueen’s more sleeves, accessible line, a long Sarah Burton drop-waist looked to the dress in windswept crepe and, landscapes for fun, a of England’s shirt and countryside, as matching envisioned in palazzo the 1967 film pants in adaptation of a cool Thomas Hardy’s graphic “Far From the print. Madding Crowd.” The influence came through in pieces that nodded to aristocratic country pursuits, such as a snug coat in khaki felted wool and a silk bustier dress printed with an image of snarling wolves.

DsQuAReD2 With preppy argyle knits, cropped trousers, ReeM ACRA plaid skirts Whether and great dressed up coats in for day (lace bold hues, inserts on a Dsquared2’s lapis leather Dean and sheath) or Dan Caten toned down worked a for night good-girl- (a zip-front gone-bad jacket over a motif, long floating inspired skirt), pre-fall by the at Reem Acra rebellious was a picture youth of the of subtle Fifties and elegance. Sixties.

GuCCi “This season I wanted to intersect romanticism with minimalism by pairing unexpected elements,” said Frida Giannini. Thus, she balanced a masculine mood — oversize silk georgette

shirts, slim camel PAVESI IANNACONNE AND GIOVANNA hair blazers, wide pants in wool crepe — with pleated maxiskirts and

round-neck fluid THOMAS JOHN AQUINO, dresses. BY PHOTOS

w21a010a;4.indd 1 12/20/11 6:17 PM 12202011181820 WWD wednesday, december 21, 2011 11 WWD, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 21, 2011 11 WWD.COM Fashion scoops For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. CHINESE CARNIVAL: with a red-lined Italian brand envelope. The 12 Stefanel SpA, blank cards are known for its casual wrapped in leopard chic knitwear print tissue paper and sportswear, in a box with a has signed a five- red satin ribbon year agreement silk-screened with fashion with Vreeland’s retailer Carnival signature. Style- International, part conscious letter of the Taiwanese writers can now corporation An Oscar de la Renta place card. find the $98 box set Yulon Group, in the new Connor granting exclusive shop in Barneys distribution rights for Stefanel clothing New York’s Chelsea Passage. and accessories in China and Taiwan. Oscar de la Renta is also giving “The Chinese market has enormous admirers another reason to write. potential and it’s crucial to be present Through a deal with Mrs. John L. there,” stated Stefanel president Giuseppe Strong, the designer will launch note Stefanel. “However, it’s also indispensable cards, invitations and place cards at to find the right local partner.” Stefanel the Mrs. John L. Strong boutique on said the agreement will help the Madison Avenue, as well as through his company strengthen its position in the boutiques and Web site. The designer’s Far East. The company is already present stationery has images of delicate- in Japan, South Korea and Hong Kong. looking gold bows, similar to ones that And the brand already has four occasionally appear in collections, stores in China, which Stefanel said though these are considerably more Carnival is developing. In addition, affordable. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG 50 new Stefanel boutiques are slated to open in Chinese and Taiwanese DIANA’S DRESSES: The Duchess of Cambridge’s shopping malls and department stores, style might be garnering all the buzz with openings in Beijing, Shenyang and these days, but London’s Kensington Chengdu in spring 2012. Palace is set to unveil a display next year The stores will adopt the concept that highlights some of the pieces from laid out by London architecture studio Princess Diana’s celebrated wardrobe. Sybarite, which Stefanel described as The display of five dresses — some a “fresh, innovative” way to present the of which are on show in the U.K. for the company’s products, especially knitwear. first time — will launch at Kensington Stefanel celebrated its 50th anniversary in Palace March 26. The centerpiece of 2009 and since then has been rolling out a the show will be the black silk taffeta rebranding campaign; in 2010, the brand Emanuel gown that cemented Diana’s launched Made for Stefanel, a jewelry status as a fashion plate when she wore collection designed by Kenyan women it at her first official engagement with using recycled, ethically sourced materials, Prince Charles in 1981. The other dresses and in 2011 it presented an Eco-Cashmere on show are a fuchsia silk chiffon sari- Collection during Berlin Fashion Week. style dress and an ivory silk crepe Speaking about his company’s dinner dress, both by Catherine Walker, experience in the Asian market, Stefanel a black and white cocktail dress by was enthusiastic, noting that customers Bellville Sassoon Lorcan Mullany and a were responsive and the Hong Kong black silk shift dress by Versace. store, “a diamond,” saw sales increase by The dresses will be presented against 38 percent over the past year. He further a set created by interior designer Finola stressed the importance of developing Inger, while Julie Verhoeven has designed Asian stores in light of the faltering bespoke wallpaper for the space to Italian economy. — CYNTHIA MARTENS highlight the late Princess of Wales’ key fashion moments. The display, called MIH, HARDLY MIA: After collaborating with “Diana,” will be on show as part of Net-a-porter on a capsule collection the celebrations to mark a $19 million earlier this year, London premium revamp of Kensington Palace in time for denim brand MiH Jeans has launched Queen Elizabeth II’s diamond jubilee and ASSISTANT DESIGNER a line exclusively with U.S. online the London Olympics, which both take Major Woman’s Outerwear Co. Seeks assistant designer. Must have experi- retailer Shopbop.com. The collection, place in 2012. — CATHERINE TIPPLE ence in all technical details, ie: specs, for resort, hit the online store this week. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, fittings, etc. Communication with mul- Textile Library For Sale PRODUCTIONS tiple factories overseas, have knowl- Inspired by the mood of Marrakech in SUN EUROPEAN PARTNERS BUYS JACQUES EXTENSIVE Full service shop to the trade. edge of excel & Illustrator, Experience WHOLE COLLECTION SALES ONLY Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 w/ AS 400 & web PDM a plus. Hand the Seventies, when the MiH label was VERT: Sun European Partners, an affiliate Contact James at 914-242-2090 sketching, photo shop, Salary commen- first launched, the collection includes of U.S.-based Sun Capital Partners, has surate w/exp.Please e-mail resume to: [email protected] MiH’s Marrakesh kick flare and Monaco offered to buy British women’s wear ATTENTION Or you can fax 1-212-764-7057 cropped flare jeans with embroidered retailer Jacques Vert. The group offered CLASSIFIED ADVERTISERS details, alongside blouses, tunics and shareholders 21 pence, or 33 cents, per The Classified Department will be closed from 12/23 thru 12/29. BOOKKEEPER safari shirts, in fabrics such as washed share in cash, a 68 percent premium on Apparel Co. NYC seeks Exp’d A/R A/P knowledgeable working with Wal- denim, chambray and mousseline. the publicly traded retailer’s share price The Marketplace section will resume with the issue of Tuesday, January 3rd. Mart, Sears and Factor. MiH has also created a special on Dec. 15. The offer values the retailer Deadline for issue of 1/03 will be Friday, 12/30 at 11am. [email protected] hangtag for the collection, which at around 40 million pounds, or $62 Thank you for your cooperation. HAPPY HOLIDAYS features a black-and-white image of million. Jacques Vert’s brands, which SRI Search 212 465 8300 founder and creative director are tailored to more mature women, During that week, recruitment postings may be still be entered at Jennifer Glenn Chloe WWDCareers.com Allen Platt Lonsdale’s mother Chekkie Maskell, a include Planet, Precis, Windsmoor and former model and the first muse to Jacques Vert, and in its fiscal 2011 the the MiH brand. Lonsdale described company reported revenues of 118.4 the collection as offering “a modern million pounds, or $183.5 million. interpretation on vintage classics.” Matthias Gundlach, vice president of Prices for the line start at $187 for the Sun European Partners, said: “Jacques Marrakesh short and run to $238 for a Vert has a collection of attractive, well- tie-front collarless shirt. — NINA JONES known brands that operate in a growing segment of the retail sector with a WRITE NOW: There is no disputing that stable demographic. The company Diana Vreeland was a real card and is profitable and has traded robustly now her name is stamped on limited through the downturn. This is a space edition stationery. The late fashion in the retail market we know very well, editrix’s grandson Alexander Vreeland and we look forward to working with has collaborated with Connor Fine the management team and employees to Engraver and Stationer to help finesse make the business even stronger.” the Diana Vreeland special edition card Earlier this year, Sun European set. An image of the signature ivory Partners acquired U.K. women’s wear (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] horn necklace his grandmother wore retailer Alexon, rescuing the company is engraved on each card which comes from bankruptcy. — N.J.

w21a011a.indd 11 12/20/11 7:51 PM 12202011195250 12 WWD wednesday, december 21, 2011 WWD.COM Misses’ Chains Battle Evolving Marketplace

{Continued from page one} private equity firm Sycamore Partners, monobrands. it’s competition for a con- which already owns 9.9 percent of the The Talbots Inc. turned down an offer by sumer segment that is not growing, but at chain and said it would buy the rest of Sycamore Partners to buy the company. XXXXXXXXXX best is treading water.” the outstanding shares for $3 each — aronson said Kohl’s, J.C. Penney, valuing retailer at $211.5 million. talbots XXXXXXXXXX Macy’s and belk have all effectively said the “proposal was inadequate and courted the misses’ customer. substantially undervalues the company.” the combination of an aging consum- investors weren’t so sure. the stock er who is economically challenged and gained just 1.9 percent to $2.69 in light less focused on fashion as they retire has trading tuesday. made for a hyper-charged competitive as it tests the waters, talbots said it environment. talbots, for one, has felt would continue with its long-range plans the brunt of it. When the company did and carry on in its search for a successor try to update its fashions to court a young for outgoing president and chief execu- customer, it ended up alienating its es- tive officer trudy Sullivan. tablished base — a retail Catch-22. Paul lejuez, an analyst at nomura the offer to buy talbots came from Securities, said the retailer should have

taken the money from Sycamore and run. leon nicholas, director of retail in- “[talbots has] a lot of debt, the brand sights at Kantar retail, said the outlook is damaged,” lejuez said. “it’s hard to for for the two companies might be different us to see why anyone would pay much if Generation X was bigger or if Gen-Y more. if they can get a new ceo in there wasn’t coming of age with e-commerce. who can shake things up a bit, that to me “[talbots and Charming Shoppes] is the best they can hope for, but i don’t didn’t accomplish what i would call think it’s going to be easy to fill that role.” intergenerational transfer,” nicholas Given the pressures of operating as a said. “they just didn’t recognize that public company in a difficult customer this next generation, Generation Y, was segment, talbots and Charming Shoppes going to buy differently. they didn’t might not have lots of options. look and see that demographics is des- “it may be these companies recogniz- tiny and see that their core shopper in Lane Bryant parent Charming ing they’ve done what they can do and time would be older.” Shoppes Inc. said it’s pursuing they’re ready to monetize in whatever in essence, he said, the misses’ mar- “strategic alternatives.” way they can,” lejuez said. ket has become a niche market.

Louboutin to Open Manhattan Men’s Store Comme des Garçons it’s around the corner By Sharon EdElSon from louboutin’s store at Expanding in Berlin 59 horatio Street, which bErlin — Comme des Garçons is dou- ChriStian louboutin’S men’s col- was opened in 2004. the bling up in berlin, with plans to open lection started organically a few years small store is said to do a both a Comme des Garçons black Shop ago when the designer began making robust volume with crowds and Pocket Shop here on Jan. 15. shoes for himself and a few friends. so big on Saturdays, it’s the two shops will be located next louboutin added men’s footwear to hard to get in the store. door to each other on linienstrasse in women’s stores, but demand became after 20 years of de- the hackescher Markt area of Mitte. too big for the women’s shops to han- signing exquisite and at though tweaked to help integrate the dle. there was enough demand to jus- times edgy footwear for brand into its new berlin surroundings, tify a freestanding men’s store, which women, louboutin is get- the store design will largely reflect ex- opened on Sept. 11 on rue Jean Jacques ting in touch with his isting black and Pocket shops around

rousseau in Paris across from the masculine side. and he ie Rea the globe. original women’s store louboutin seems to be show- S there are shops for black, the brand’s Su opened 20 years earlier. ing men’s footwear The men’s youngest line featuring iconic Comme WWd has learned that with the same at- store in Paris. des Garçons pieces for men and women,

louboutin in the spring will open tention to detail. Photo by in Paris, london, new York, Japan and a 1,035-square-foot men’s store the men’s styles Singapore. launched in Paris in 2008, in Manhattan’s Meatpacking can be as extravagant as the viously its industrial bones and mas- the Pocket format featuring the brand’s district. it will be its second women’s. a collaboration with culine aura. the store is near the final expanding range of perfumes and wal- men’s store in the world. Jean-François lesage, son southern entrance to the high line at lets. the berlin shops will be 800 square “the men’s shoes only rep- of the late François lesage Gansevoort Street. one thing is fairly feet and 270 square feet, respectively. resent a small portion of the whose maison was considered certain, the store will likely have a re- this is not Comme des Garçon’s first business at present but we the last great embroidery ate- worked red carpet, which has become a foray into berlin. the German capi- think it has huge potential lier in Paris, yielded a collec- louboutin signature. tal was the site of the first Comme des for the future,” said alexis tion for fall. india was the the Paris men’s store has an eclectic Garçons guerrilla shop in 2004. two Mourot, chief operating of- inspiration for several styles mix of studded leather floors and em- more followed in other berlin venues, ficer. “We are very happy to including Mikaraja, a patent broidered leather walls, a tin ceiling, plus another in Glasgow. the guerrilla have found a location in new leather loafer with hand- vintage airplane seats and a “Star trek” concept has since been ended. York, especially one so close to stitched pearl tassels for table and chair. Customers can person- there was a bit of serendipity in- our current downtown women’s $2,095, and the loubi Flat, in alize their louboutins with bespoke volved in this latest berlin move, ac- boutique. this store opening in off white nappa leather with embroidery replicating their own tat- cording to the company’s chief execu- new York is an important step for lesage embroidery, $2,295. toos or choose from the store’s designs, tive officer, adrian Joffe. “We have Christian and for the company.” there’s also a rollerboy spiked a service that could be carried over to always liked the energy of berlin Mitte, louboutin’s retail sales ex- velvet hunter green loafer, the Meatpacking district. we have slowly evolving plans in place ceeded $250 million for the year The off white $1,295, that looks like a porcu- the company declined to discuss to expand our black and Pocket stores ended august 2010. Loubi Flat. pine, and the alfie Flat, mu- future men’s stores, but a possible loca- worldwide, and we have kept in touch the new men’s store will be litcolor specchio calf and glit- tion is the Christian louboutin store on with [architect] Christian Weinecke located on Washington Street between ter high tops, $895. north robertson boulevard between since we first opened the very first guer- horatio Street and Gansevoort Street, louboutin executives said details of Melrose avenue and Santa Monica rilla store together in Mitte in 2004” he and next to the Whitney Museum of the store’s design haven’t been finalized. boulevard. the two-story building has a told WWd. american art construction site. however, the appeal of the space is ob- freestanding structure behind it.  —MelissaDrier

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