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The Law, Culture, and Economics of Fashion

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The Law, Culture, and Economics of Fashion THE LAW, CULTURE, AND ECONOMICS OF FASHION C. Scott Hemphill* & Jeannie Suk** Forthcoming, Stanford Law Review (2009) INTRODUCTION....................................................................................................... 102! I. WHAT IS FASHION? ............................................................................................. 109! A. Status ........................................................................................................... 109! B. Zeitgeist ....................................................................................................... 111! C. Copies Versus Trends .................................................................................. 113! D. Why Promote Innovation in Fashion? ........................................................ 115! II. A MODEL OF TREND ADOPTION AND PRODUCTION ........................................... 117! A. Differentiation and Flocking ....................................................................... 118! B. Trend Adoption ............................................................................................ 119! C. Trend Production ........................................................................................ 121! III. HOW UNREGULATED COPYING THREATENS INNOVATION ............................... 123! A. Fast Fashion Copyists ................................................................................. 124! B. The Threat to Innovation ............................................................................. 127! 1. Harmful copying ................................................................................... 128! * Associate Professor of Law, Columbia Law School. ** Assistant Professor of Law, Harvard Law School. The authors thank Robert Ahdieh, Yochai Benkler, Vernon Cassin, Glenn Cohen, Domenico De Sole, Hal Edgar, Liz Emens, Noah Feldman, Robert Ferguson, Amy Finkelstein, Terry Fisher, Jane Ginsburg, Victor Goldberg, Jeff Gordon, Laura Hammond, Michael Heller, Lauren Howard, Olati Johnson, Clarisa Long, Avery Katz, Alon Klement, Doug Lichtman, Ronald Mann, Martha Minow, Ed Morrison, Melissa Murray, Ben Olken, John Palfrey, Alex Raskolnikov, Kal Raustiala, David Schizer, Elizabeth Scott, Steve Shavell, Chris Sprigman, Matt Stephenson, Cass Sunstein, John Witt, and audiences at Harvard Law School, Columbia Law School, the University of Tokyo, and the New Yorker magazine’s 2008 annual conference for helpful discussions and comments. Bert Huang provided constant collaborative advice and support. We thank Sarah Bertozzi, Melanie Brown, Andrew Childers, Jon Cooper, Brittany Cvetanovich, Zeh Ekono, Joseph Fishman, Ilan Graff, Brett Hartman, Andrea Lee, Samantha Lipton, Zoe Pershing-Foley, and Ming Zhu for excellent research assistance, and the staff of the Columbia Law School, Fashion Institute of Technology, and Harvard Law School libraries for their efforts procuring difficult sources. Special thanks to the several dozen stakeholders—in fashion houses, government agencies, industry associations, and law firms—for interviews from which we gained valuable insights on fashion design and the fashion industry. Views or errors in this article are those of the authors only. 101 [2009] 102 2. Distorting innovation ............................................................................ 129! C. The Myth of Beneficial Piracy ..................................................................... 133! IV. TAILORED PROTECTION FOR ORIGINAL DESIGNS ............................................. 137! A. The Scope of the Right ................................................................................ 138! B. Considering Objections ............................................................................... 142! CONCLUSION .......................................................................................................... 147! INTRODUCTION Fashion is one of the world’s most important creative industries. It is the major output of a global business with annual U.S. sales exceeding $300 billion—larger than those of books, movies, and music combined.1 Everyone wears clothing and inevitably participates in fashion to some degree. Fashion is also a subject of periodically rediscovered fascination in virtually all the social sciences and the humanities.2 It has provided economic thought with a canonical example in theorizing about consumption and conformity.3 Social thinkers have long treated fashion as a window upon social class and social change.4 Cultural theorists have focused on fashion to reflect on symbolic 1. Apparel sales in the United States totaled $361 billion in 2007. Global Insight, Inc., Global Insight Consumer Forecast 2008. For comparison, U.S. publishers had net sales of $25 billion in 2007. Press Release, Association of American Publishers, AAP Reports Book Sales Rose to $25 Billion in 2007 (Mar. 31, 2008), http://www.publishers.org/main/ IndustryStats/indStats_02.htm. The motion picture and video industry had estimated revenues of $64 billion in 2003. U.S. Census Bureau, 2003 Service Annual Survey, Information Sector Services (NAICS 51)—Estimated Revenue for Employer Firms: 1998 Through 2003, at 1, tbl. 3.0.1 (2003), http://www.census.gov/svsd/www/sas51-1.pdf; see also Motion Picture Association of America, Inc., Entertainment Industry Market Statistics 2007, at 3, available at http://www.mpaa.org/USEntertainmentIndustryMarketStats.pdf (reporting U.S. box office sales of nearly $10 billion in 2007). The music industry had U.S. revenue, measured at retail, of about $10 billion in 2007. Recording Industry Association of America, 2007 Year-End Shipment Statistics (2007), http://www.riaa.com/keystatistics.php. Thus fashion is comparable in importance to other core creative industries even if, as seems plausible, some apparel has a lower intellectual property content. Fashion is also the third- largest employer in New York, after health care and finance. Rags and Riches, ECONOMIST, Mar. 6, 2004. 2. See, e.g., LARS SVENDSEN, FASHION: A PHILOSOPHY 7 (John Irons trans., Reaktion 2006) (“Fashion has been one of the most influential phenomena in Western civilization since the Renaissance”). 3. See, e.g., Harvey Leibenstein, Bandwagon, Snob, and Veblen Effects in the Theory of Consumers’ Demand, 64 Q. J. ECON. 183 (1950); see also, e.g., Sushil Bikhchandani, David Hirshleifer & Ivo Welch, A Theory of Fads, Fashion, Custom, and Cultural Change as Informational Cascades, 100 J. POL. ECON. 992 (1992); Philip R. P. Coelho & James E. McClure, Toward an Economic Theory of Fashion, 31 ECON. INQUIRY 595 (1993); Wolfgang Pesendorfer, Design Innovation and Fashion Cycles, 85 AM. ECON. REV. 771 (1995); Dwight E. Robinson, The Economics of Fashion Demand, 75 Q. J. ECON. 376 (1961); George J. Stigler & Gary S. Becker, De Gustibus Non Est Disputandum, 67 AM. ECON. REV. 76, 87-89 (1977). 4. See, e.g., THORSTEIN VEBLEN, THE THEORY OF THE LEISURE CLASS (Dover Publ’n, Inc. 1994) (1899); Georg Simmel, Fashion, 10 INT’L Q. 130 (1904), reprinted in 62 AM. J. SOC. 541 (1957); see also, e.g., QUENTIN BELL, ON HUMAN FINERY (Shocken Books 1976) [2009] 103 meaning and social ideals.5 Fashion has also been seen to embody representative characteristics of modernity, and even of culture itself.6 Indeed, it is hard to imagine a locus of social life—whether in the arts, the sciences, politics, academia, entertainment, business, or even law or morality— that does not exhibit fashion to some degree.7 People flock to ideas, styles, methods, and practices that seem new and exciting, and then eventually the intensity of that collective fascination subsides, when the newer and hence more exciting emerge on the scene. Participants of social practices that value innovation are driven to partake of what is “original,” “cutting edge,” “fresh,” “leading,” or “hot.” But with time, those qualities are attributed to others, and another trend takes shape. This is fashion. The desire to be “in fashion”—most visibly manifested in the practice of dress—captures a significant aspect of social life, characterized by both the pull of continuity with others and the push of innovation toward the new. In the legal realm, this social dynamic of innovation and continuity is most directly engaged by the law of intellectual property. At this moment, fashion itself has the attention of federal policymakers, as Congress considers whether to provide copyright protection to fashion design,8 a debate that is sure to (1949); PIERRE BOURDIEU, DISTINCTION: A SOCIAL CRITIQUE OF THE JUDGMENT OF TASTE (Richard Nice trans., Harvard Univ. Press 1984) (1979); DIANA CRANE, FASHION AND ITS SOCIAL AGENDAS (2000); KURT LANG & GLADYS ENGEL LANG, COLLECTIVE DYNAMICS 465- 88 (1961); PHILIPPE PERROT, FASHIONING THE BOURGEOISIE: A HISTORY OF CLOTHING IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY (Richard Bienvenue trans., Princeton Univ. Press 1994) (1981); JOHN RAE, THE SOCIOLOGICAL THEORY OF CAPITAL 218-36, 245-76 (Charles Whitney Mixter ed., Macmillan Co. 1905) (1834); Bernard Barber & Lyle S. Lobel, “Fashion” in Women’s Clothes and the American Social System, 31 SOCIAL FORCES 124 (1952). 5. See, e.g., ROLAND BARTHES, THE FASHION SYSTEM (Matthew Ward & Richard Howard trans., Farrar, Straus & Giroux, Inc. 1983) (1967); JENNIFER CRAIK, THE FACE OF FASHION: CULTURAL STUDIES IN FASHION (1994); FRED DAVIS, FASHION, CULTURE, AND IDENTITY (1992); Edward Sapir, Fashion, in 6 ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF THE SOCIAL SCIENCES 139, 139-44 (Edwin R. A. Seligman ed., 1931). 6. See, e.g., JEAN BAUDRILLARD, FOR A CRITIQUE
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