JULY, 1916. PRICE, 25 CENTS A COPY. $2.00 A YEAR 1111D ACIDIC 41ACAZINE
CLOSED PU 620 .M5 - In 1915 San Francisco invited the world. Honolulu, at the crossroads of the Great Ocean. invites all Pacific nations as its guests in 1917. See within. Speedy Trains in New South Wales The Mother State of the Australian Commonwealth.
The World's Famous Railway Bridge Over the Hawkesbury River, N. S. W.
All the year round New South Wales is railway bridge. Here is 'to be found the best place for the tourist. From Syd- glorious river scenery as well as excellent ney and New Castle, as well as from points fishing and camping grounds. By rail also in other states, there are speedy trains, with is reached the splendid trout fishing streams comfortable accommodations, at very cheap of New South Wales, stocked with fry, rates to the interesting points of the Mother yearling and two year old trout. State of the Australian Commonwealth. Beautiful waterfalls abound throughout Within a few hours by rail of the metrop- the state and all beauty spots are reached olis of Sydney are located some of the most after a few hours' comfortable trip fron- wonderful bits of scenery in the world. It Sydney. is but a, half afternoon's train ride to the beautiful Blue Mountains, particularly fa- Steamship passengers arriving at Sydney mous for the exhilarating properties of at- disembark at Circular Quay. Here the mosphere. Here and in other parts of the city tramways (electric traction) converge, state are the world's most wonderful and and this is the terminus of thirty routes, beautiful limestone caverns. Those of varying from two to eleven miles in length. Jenolan are known by fame in every land. One of the best means of seeing the pic- Reached by the south coast railways are turesque views and places of interest about the surf bathing and picnicing resorts famed Sydney is to travel around them all by elec- throughout Australia and even abroad. tric tram. The cost is trifling, as the fares on Within a score of miles of Sydney is the, the state railways are low. The secretary beautiful Hawkesbury river ana its great of the railway system is J. L. Spurway. • 13,11A,IVAS•ALAIMP,MR,11, 41,11/4,M•ApnlIO,SOMNIMAP K,111,10,0) • Kfl 4 • 4.1•45„).1_141.1„..14041•MIPAMM „LI 1 I 1•14.11AMPAMPAnyl,\INIMA/41,41., 20,91(2.$ ., ., . ii r flito-Parttir fliagattur : i i CON DUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD 4 • VOLUME XII. NO. 1. '4 . . • CONTENTS FOR JULY, 1916.
t-,- • Our Art Gallery. San Diego and the Pan-Pacific Exposition +..i The 1917 Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu - - - 17 +. 4 New Zealand Today - - - - - - - - 33 4 K By Consul-General Alfred Winslow. 4.. g The Panama National Exposition - - - — 39 4 Alone Before the "House of the Sun" — - - - 43 • il By John P. Clum. • • t The Tourist Bureau of New South Wales - - - - 47 . By Director Percy Hunter. • i • Japan-America and the Panama Canal - - - - - 5 • By Soichiro Asano, President of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha. . . The Busiest Volcano of the World - - - - - - 55 • . By Sidney Powers, (Geological Museum, Cambridge, Mass.) • 'C■ American Trade in China — - - - -' - 61 • By John H. Arnold, (United States Commercial Attache) i . 67 • . New Hebrides Days - - - - — - - By Charmian Kittredge London t (From the Log of the Snark) :14 • My First Day in Java - - - - — - - - 73 4 By the Editor. 4 il Robert Louis Stevenson in Kona - - - - - - 79 .t=4 g By Dr. E. S. Goodhue • • - - - - 85 14 kr Manila and Its Environs - — By Captains George Seaver and Mark Scott. t ( On Camel Back in Central Australia - - - - - 91 . t By Jas. F. Flynn • ig • g Editorial- - - - - — - - - - - 96 THE HONOLULU EXPOSITION 1 i.5 1E Encyclopedia of Hawaii and the Pacific.
011e i' i: id-farifir i'r minim. K Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. ._1! ;ID Printed by the HontanutiSataariludeerzoLtso Yearly IsitlgbareirtioncsouinnttLeUnited States ained possessions,$2.00 in advance. copies, 25c Entered as second-class mattrrlat the Hoklua; POstofficeg. . 4 • Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given 4 oatto•-i .1 • • • • lyki • warectroviwv•-44 • a t a • Itilra*tartil • 1 a i • raw/Aiwa• lair • Itrict • lai THE CALIFORNIA BUILDING AT THE SAN DIEGO EXPOSITION.
From the most successful Panama-California Exposition in San Dieo, Cali- fornia, comes the suggestion to the Pan-Pacific workers to hold in 1917 at the Cross-Roads of the Pacific a really Pan-Pacific Exposition, and Honolulu accepts the invitation. Already John Barrett, president of the Pan-American Union, has promised his personal support and that of the Pan-American Bulletin to the Pan-Pacific 1917 Exposition, as has Percy Hunter, head of the movement in Australia. A NEARER VIEW OF THE CALIFORNIA BUILDING.
This fire-proof building in San Diego remains a monument to the 1916 Exposition. It 'was through Secretary H. J. Penfold of the Panama- California Exposition that the first step was made to invite the Pan- Pacific Club of Hawaii to lead in providing a Pan-Pacific Exposition at Honolulu in 1917 THE SCIENCE AND ARTS PALACE, SAN DIEGO EXPOSITION.
This is a portion of the building and patio of the Science and Arts Palace at the San Diego 1916 Panama-California International Exposition. It is now occupied in part by the exhibits from more than one Pacific country, not housed in the Pan-Pacific building. THE PAN-PACIFIC GUILE ANG AT THE SAN DIEGO EXPOSITION.
This picture shows a portion of the Pan-Pacific building at the 1916 Inter- national Exposition at San Diego. This building, besides housing ex- hibitions from Australia, New Zealand, Java, Alaska, Japan, China and Hawaii, is also the home of the wonderfully artistic and instructive exhibit of the Philippines. SAN DIEGO'S CIVIC COURT OF HONOR.
San Diego is splendidly equipped to care for the visitor. Here we have a glimpse of the beautiful palm court and fountain in the center of the city and surrounded by the leading hotels and theaters. From this center the Pan-Pacific Exhibition building may be reached in a few moments by elec- tric tram or automobile. MODJESKA'S HOME NEAR SAN DIEGO.
San Diego is located in a country beautiful. Summer and Winter it is ideal for home making. In this region hundreds of famous men and women, including the late Polish patriot and actress, Helene Modjeska, have made their abode. What wonder that visiting thousands daily attend the Exposition at San Diego. CALIFORNIA'S PLYMOUTH ROCK AT SAN DIEGO.
At Old San Diego, four miles from the Exposition Palaces, Father Serra in 1769 planted the cross, and from its crumbling ruins has risen the Ply- mouth Rock of the Pacific where California was born. SAN DIEGO'S FIRST DATE PALM.
In 1769 the first date seeds brought to America were planted at Old San Diego, one of the trees that grew and bore was sent to the Chicago Ex- position, one died, and the last stands before the ruins of California's first mission. SAN LOUIS REY MISSION, NEAR SAN DIEGO.
The San Louis Rey Mission is kept in repair by patriotic San Diego citizens as the home church of the Pala Indians by the forefathers of whom it was built nearly one hundred and fifty years ago. Here about the old mission the Pala Indians still live and even increase. THE PALA TOWER BELLS, NEAR SAN DIEGO.
The only tower bells in flmerica, those of Pala, at the San Louis Rey Mis- sion near San Diego. These bells were sent from Spain in 178o, and the Indian lace makers seen in the picture are the descendants of the old mission Indians. A BIT OF CONVERTED CALIFORNIA DESERT.
Before the close of the 1916 San Diego Exposition it is hoped that the new transcontinental railway connecting San Diego even more closely and directly with all great American cities will be in operation. Here is a bit of Mohave desert on its line in Southern California that irrigation and railway have made a habitable earthly paradise. A BIT OF PAN-PACIFIC SAN DIEGO.
illready the San Diego region is becoming Pan-Pacific in its architecture. There are old Spanish-day mission buildings, Mexican haciendas, Chinese farms, and at Coronado beach, a few moments from San Diego, ideal Japanese tea gardens as attractive and real as any in the Land of the Rising Sun. OLD MISSIONS IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA.
The "Kingdom of the Sun" the artistic Exposition quarterly tells us that there are eighteen old Spanish Missions in California that are still in a fair state of preservation, some of these still being used for the celebra- tion of the mass; three have crumbled to ruins, but that at San Diego is well preserved and revered as the marriage place of Ramona. THE U. S. CRUISER "SAN DIEGO."
The Cruiser "San Diego", named after the Exposition City, is the pride of the Pacific fleet and hopes to officially assist in welcoming the Pan-Pacific exhibitors to Honolulu in 1917. THEAVE NUEO FALL N ATIONSAT TH ES AND IEGO EXPOSITION. flith-Partitr filagattur CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD
• 11111111111111.1411.1111I/11111111111,111■1111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111.1111■1111111111111111111111111/11111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111411111M11111111111.1141111111.1■111111111111111111■•1111111111141111111111111111■11111111/11111111011111111111111111111111111111111111111111311114,1111,11111■141111111111 Vol.. XII. JULY, 1916. No. 1
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Ctty Set Upon a Hill Cannot Be Hid—The San Diego Exposition City.
Preparing for The 1917 Pan- Pacific Exposition in Honolulu
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THE HANDS-AROUND-THE-PACIFIC ORGANIZATION INVITES THE PAN-PACIFIC COUNTRIES TO HOLD AN EXPOSITION IN HONOLULU IN 1917, OR AT THE CONCLUSION OF PEACE IN EUROPE.
HE Pan-Pacific organization in at the San Diego 1916 Exposition, having Honolulu has long looked for- augmented the desire in America for a bet- T ward to an all-Pacific exposition ter knowledge of things Pacific, it has been at the Cross-Roads of the Pacific Ocean, suggested that the Pan-Pacific Club in Ha- and now San Diego asks Hawaii to take waii, which is the central arganization of the lead in preparing for 1917 a Pan-Pa- the Hands-Around-the-Pacific movement, cific Exposition that will attract the peo- interest the lands about the Great Ocean ples of all lands about the great ocean to in the project of a Pan-Pacific Exposition come together at the Cross-Roads of the in Honolulu in 1917. Each Pacific land Pacific to work together for the adance- to be offered, rent free, an exhibition palace ment of all material interests in which the in which to install its exhibits, and every people of the Pacific are interested. effort made to secure free transit of such The exhibits in the Pan-Pacific Building exhibits from Pacific lands to the varied
17 18 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 19
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Plan of the Exhibition Palaces at the 1916 San Diego Exposition. __The Pan-Pacific Building is marked No. 12 on the plan.
rxposition buildings in Honolulu. Thus paign and exhibition to interest the world may be begun the nucleus of a permanent, at large in the wonderful opportunities movable Pan-Pacific exhibit that should at- the Pacific Ocean—that future theatre of tain to great achievement. The suggestion world's commerce—holds for those who is accepted by Honolulu. inhabit her shores. The value of the opportunity at this The first invitation for co-operation in time to gather together at one place in the 1917 Pan-Pacific Exposition was ex- the Pacific, at little cost, attractive ex- tended by the Pan-Pacific Club to John hibits from each Pacific land, will be Barrett, president of the Pan-American more fully appreciated when it is further Union, which, from its marble palace in announced that at San Antonio, Texas, Washington extends and radiates its fel- in 1919 is to be held a great industrial lowship feeling to and among the people exhibition, and in 1920 in Boston an in- of all lands in the two Americas; and ternational exposition of first magnitude. the second was to Percy Hunter, the rep- The gathering of Pacific effort and ex- resentative of several Australian states, hibits in Honolulu in 1917 will but who has been a prime mover in the Hands- pave the way for more effective exhibits Around-the-Pacific movement from the and work for Pacific interests at these hour of its inception. Both invitations later expositions, and perhaps cement the were cordially received and elicited warm plans for co-operative work, that all Pa- assurances of personal co-operation, and cific lands may now unite in a joint cam- this is the co-operation desired, for the ex- 20 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 21
The Lagoon before the Pan-Pacific Building, at the 1916 San Diego Exposition. hibit will be the result of united personal idea has grown until today through num- effort from every land about the Pacific, erous weekly luncheon clubs in the larger rather than mere official government rep- Pacific cities there has grown up a co- resentation. It is to be an effort of the operative plan for all of the Pacific coun- people of the Pacific to find a way to get tries to work together as a whole and cre- together and work together for the ad- ate a real patriotism of the Pacific. vancement of the interests of all lands The first of these weekly get together that border on or lie within the greatest luncheon clubs was organized in Honolulu of oceans. and called the Hands-Around-hte-Pacific As in the Pan-Pacific Building at the Club, and at these weekly gatherings there 1916 Exposition in San Diego, so at the were people resident in 'Honolulu from 1917 Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu, every Pacific land. Later, as the idea the industrial men of each land are ex- spread around the Pacific, the weekly pected to meet otgether and work together, luncheon clubs in the different cities took each for the other and for the success of the different names, but all worked in co- whole, save that there will be many men operation with the Hands-Around-the- and exhibits from each Pacific land, it is Pacific movement. The Pan-Pacific Club hoped ; for in 1917 whole buildings are to iil Honolulu is the local branch of the be filled with the exhibits from each Pacific greater organization and its purpose at country, instead of the mere sections that the cross-roads of the Pacific is to estab- in 1916 have so interested America in the lish a permanent Pan-Pacific commercial Pacific that more, far more, is asked for; museum and depot for exhibits from every and in view of the desirability of the expan- Pacific land that may be rushed on cable sion of commerce about the Great Ocean order to any part of the Pacific for ex- —should be most gladly given. hibition purposes. The Pan-Pacific movement had its in- At a meeting of the Pan-Pacific Club ception in Hawaii about seven years ago, in San Francisco in December at which when a congress was held to promote were present the commissioners to the San around-the-Pacific travel. Since then the ,Francisco Exposition from every Pacific 22 THE MID—PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC
The aisle between the Hawaiian and Philippines Exhibits in the Pan-Pacific Building. land, an invitation was extended by Presi- descriptive literature of the island domin- dent Davidson and Mayor Capps to the ion. Later in the season it is probable Pacific countries to exhibit at the San that there will be some artistic exhibits Diego 1916 Exposition. This matter was sent from Wellington, the capital of New at once taken up by the Pan-Pacific Club, Zealand. Australia sent exhibits similar which guaranteed for all of the countries to those of New Zealand as well as flags of the Pacific that there would be such of all of the Australian states for decora- an exhibit, and the Philippines at once tive purposes, besides great reels of motion came in with strong support. Owing to films that tell the advantages of the Aus- the war in Europe the Pan-Pacific Club tralian Commonwealth. issued an invitation to those countries of Java has a small exhibit of native brass- the Pacific which could merely send ex- ware and it is probable that other ex- hibits to send these, and the Pan-Pacific hibits will arrive direct from Java during Club would assume all further responsi- the Exposition season. bility, providing lecturer, motion picture Alaska has one of the most interesting and stereopticon outfits as well as taking and picturesque exhibits in the Pan-Pacific care of the exhibits and distributing litera- Building. She has sent down one of her ture from every country of the Pacific. great ocean-going canoes, besides a great New Zealand is supporting the work panorama showing the Muir Glacier. and has sent an excellent exhibit of large Stuffed animals of the interior are on dis- pictures of New Zealand scenery as well play as well as the skins of great grizzly as motion picture films, some of which are bears and other animals of Alaska, to say in color, and besides these a splendid set nothing of relief maps and a splendid col- of albums of New Zealand scenery and lection of photographs. 24 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 25
A corner of the Alaska Exhibit in the Pan-Pacific Building.
From the Northwest there will be from the nucleus of a working corps. time to time displays of the fruits of that The plan of the Pan-Pacific Building at region as well as picturesque and decora- the San Diego Exposition is the first ex- tive exhibits. periment of this sort to be tried out, and Siam is sending an exhibit of small art if it is a success it means that hereafter ware and photographs, while in Hawaii Pacific countries will work together for the Chinese and Japanese are getting to- themselves and for each other whenever gether a most picturesque exhibit of Far opportunity offers; and that a real pa- Eastern art ware. There is a restaurant triotism of the Pacific will grow and ex- in the building where the Hawaiian music pand until the ambition of every one liv- boys sing and play familiar airs of the ing about the shores of the Great Ocean Pacific and here is served Hawaiian coffee will be realized and the Pacific will be- as well as native dishes of other Pacific come the great theatre of the commerce lands. or the future. In the Hawaiian section there are great The attendance at the San Diego Ex- oil paintings of the scenery of the paradise position so far for 1916 has far exceeded .of the Pacific as well as relief maps of all that of a year ago and large crowds from the islands and splendid color transparen- the East seem headed that way and there cies. From time to time the collection is no counter attraction at San Fran- will be added to by shipments from Ha- cisco. There were 45,000 visitors on waii. It is the intention of the Pan-Pacific opening day, March 18th, in the Pan- Club to keep adding to the collection in Pacific Building. the Pan-Pacific Building throughout the A great deal of interest centers there Exposition year and to employ a working in the Hawaiian exhibit, which even now force that will learn to boost for the whole next to that of the Philippines occupies Pacific. So that for 1917 there is already the largest space in the Pan-Pacific Build- ■
26 THE. MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 27
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A corner of the Australian Exhibit in the Pan-Pacific Building.
ing, and with the arrival of the Pan- to bring her curios and native work and Pacific exhibits from Honolulu promises sit in that canoe, borrowed a lot of can- to be the big attraction. However, the vas painted to represent the sea which he splendid exhibit of black opals from Aus- put on the floor under the canoe with his tralia installed by Percy Marks, the opal splendid collection of polar bear skins, king, is a close rival. moose heads and curios from Alaska This Pan-Pacific effort is really a striv- strung around. You can't keep the school ing after results. One man that is attrac- children and the high school boys and ting much attention in the press is L. L. girls away from that section and you Bales of Alaska. He exhibited at the San can't keep their parents away and you Francisco Exposition and with an en- can't keep the newspaper men from writ- thusiasm for Alaska as large as the great ing columns of stuff and publishing pic- building he was in. He was offered free tures and photographs of Bales, his Eski- space in the Pan-Pacific Building, jumped mc girl, his wife and this section. Now at the chance, rushed up to Alaska at his one man did this alone and that one man own expense and brought down an ex- possibly hasn't a hundred dollars to his hibit that is the kind that people want to name yet he has made such an exhibit as see and not the kind we might care to the original one that started the most mar- thrust before them. velous permanent exhibition in the world, Bales borrowed a big painting of Muir that of Canada, which has a building to Glacier from one of the steamship com- itself, and it is along the lines of Bales' panies, about 40 feet long and about 25 exhibit—developed to the extreme. The feet high. This he made the background Canadian exhibit is what the Pan-Pacific of his exhibit, then he borrowed a 35-ft. exhibit should grow to be within a few long Alaskan canoe, next got an Eskimo girl years. There are probably forty diora- ■
28 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID -PACIFIC 29 mas as a background and in the fore- Building has been turned into a club ground are seen, for instance in one, the room for the newspaper men and women wild game of the country as natural as of San Diego as well as for those who life, in another a beaver dam with a real visit the Exposition. Here Hawaiian cof- lake, beavers at work building their dam, fee is on tap as well as light refreshments beavers alive and working. There are provided by the Pan-Pacific Club for the other dioramas depicting the scenic splen- press and its friends. The newspapers of dors of Canada with perhaps the real the Pacific countries as well as the maga- standing grain in the foreground, and still zines are kept on file. other dioramas of the industries and of the In the main gallery has been installed cities of Canada, and these all so real a motion picture theatre and here the and natural that the eye is deceived and films and lantern shades of all Pacific it seems impossible to believe that you are lands are shown, the Pan-Pacific Club not just looking out of a car window on having secured the services of an ex- a great broad expanse of the real thing. perienced lecturer familiar with Pacific It isn't the money you put in an ex- lands and their ambitions. hibit, it is the brains and taste and energy The work for the 1917 Pan-Pacific and effort. Exposition is well on its way, the follow- The Philippine exhibit is a marvel. It ing from the Commercial Advertiser of grew from a little exhibit at a country Honolulu on the day after the arrival of fair—a mere sales exhibit ten years ago in the delegates who were on their way to the Philippines. An exhibit begun by an interest Australia, New Zealand and army officer, it grew from year to year other Pacific lands, fairly outlines the be- until today it occupies a space in the ginning made. Pan-Pacific Building about 125 by 50 feet. "Several Pan-Pacific commissioners ar- Its installation cost nine thousand dollars, rived yesterday on the "Sierra," bearing but the fact is that it grew from an ar- from H. J. Penford, Secretary of the San tistic little exhibit along the same lines Diego Exhibition an invitation to the Pan- made ten years ago, and it has ever since Pacific Club in Hawaii to call together paid its own way and is still doing so. the races about the Great Ocean during . A big dominant feature, for instance, in 1917 for a Pan-Pacific Exposition. It was the Pan-Pacific Building at the San Diego later decided that Honolulu at the cross- 1916 Exposition is the Hawaiian flag. roads of the Great Ocean would be the It stretches nearly fifty feet along the one logical location for such a Pan-Pacific wall space and in its center is a large gathering. oil painting of Hanalei Bay, although this "The project has appealed to the rep- picture seems lost on the great space of the resentatives of Pacific lands already ap- flag. It has been necessary to place a large proached. John Barrett, director of the sign on this flag, stating that it is the , Pan-American. Union, and one of the vice- Hawaiian emblem, as several indignant presidents of the Hands-Around-the-Pacific patriotic American women nearly mobbed movement, has given assurances of his co- the director of the building, declaring operation and will assist in getting the that they would not have a British flag Latin-American countries to at least fill a the most prominent thing in the building. South American building with their ex- This is by long odds the largest and most hibits. Percy Hunter, the Australian vice- beautiful flag on the Exposition grounds president of the movement, is •returning and people come from every direction to to Sydney, where the local organization, see the big Hawaiian flag. The Millions Club of New South Wales, One of the galleries in the Pan-Pacific with its 3,000 members, will begin the 30 THE MID-PACIFIC campaign for filling the Australian Build- has been secured a splendid beginning for ing. this work for the 1917 Pan-Pacific Exposi- "The Filipinos have asked for an en- tion from Canada, South America, Mexico, tire building for 1917, as has Alaska. Sir the Philippines, and Alaska. In continuance Joseph Ward, former premier of New of this the present plan is to appeal, for in- Zealand and leader of the opposition stance, to each city in Australia through its there, is another keenly interested vice- branch of the Hands-Around-the-Pacific pi esident of the Hands-Around-the-Pacific weekly luncheon club to send from Bris- movement, and an emmissary is on his bane, Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth way to the Antipodes. Word has been and Hobart dioramas of these cities with sent to S. Sheba, an officer of the Pan- their harbors displayed in the foreground Pacific Club now in Japan, to become with models, perhaps, of the larger steam- active there, and even Siberia asks for a ers (from the steamship companies) float- small building for 1917. ing in real water. The Dunedin Expan- "The people of the mainland are tak- sion League, the Thirty Thousand Club ing up the co-operative feature of the of Napier and the New Plymouth Expan- Pan-Pacific work. It is getting much sion League in New Zealand are also being publicity, and Hawaii, at the crossroads appealed to along the same lines. These of the Pacific, is looked to as the logical dioramas are movable, easily taken to leader in getting the races and countries pieces and packed. It is needless to say of the Pacific to work together. There that the Tourist Bureaux and State Rail- are three great expositions to follow that ways of Australia are also being appealed at San Diego—the Industrial Fair in San to to send dioramas of their most striking Antonio in 1919 ; the world's exposition in scenery and industrial centers. Boston in 1920, and a great exposition in "In this, Hawaii can, well afford to Japan. Nowadays countries no longer care make the good beginning of a permanent to enter for awards—everyone gets them, movable exhibit that will attract atten- so they become valueless. Instead, each tion and interest wherever it is displayed. country demands its own building where At no great cost Hilo could provide a it displays its own exhibits, preferring co- most excellent diorama, say thirty feet operation to rivalry, so the exhibits are long, by fifteen feet high and fifteen feet not entered for competitive awards, but deep, of Kilauea in action. The Maui merely to attract the public. Canada at Chamber of Commerce owes it to the the San Francisco Exposition spent a Valley Island to reproduce for perma- million and a half dollars on her build- nent exhibit Haleakala at Sunset and per- ing and in the installation and upkeep haps Iao Valley. Kauai should send a of the series of exhibits she has spent model of Waimea canyon to the world, eighteen years collecting and perfecting. for it is unrivalled. Those who saw the Every province of Canada is represented marvelous Javan dioramas (now treas- as a part of the complete whole. ured as gifts in the leading universities "Now this is exactly the idea of the in America) at the San Francisco Ex- Pan-Pacific work. In the present Pan- position, will recall the interest they Pacific Building at San Diego begins the aroused. Oahu has her Pali, and the Out- nucleus of an exhibit that may be moved rigger Club will be asked to donate a from one exposition to another. The least diorama of our surfriders in action ; and costly and most effective exhibit is based perhaps we may secure a diorama from on the diorama plan, or series of dioramas the Trail and Mountain Club of our entirely around a building, with the center wonderful mountain haunts behind Hono-. space clear for individual exhibits. There lulu. THE MID-PACIFIC 31
fl Birdseye View of the Exhibiiton Buildings at the San Diego Exposition.
"Now, too, seems to be the time when Now let's play ball, and be at the bat in the sugar planters might well have pre- Honolulu in 1917." pared a series of dioramas depicting the On the same day the Honolulu Star- sugar industry and its value to these isl- Bulletin commented as follows: ands. It would do no harm to show these "Mr. Hunter arrived in Honolulu in in Honolulu, San Antonio, Boston and the steamer 'Sierra' yesterday, in company New York, with the loan in an off year with Alexander Hume Ford. The two to the Smithsonian Institute in 'Washing- met in San Diego, California, by appoint- ton. No Pacific land can rival Hawaii in ment, Mr. Ford having made the 'date' her possibilities for dramatic and scenic by cable while Mr. Hunter was in London. effect in the diorama field, and Colonel Both are interested in the proposed Pan- Hutchison of the Canadian Building in San Pacific Exposition in Honolulu in 1917, Diego states that it is this effect that Can- and it was to talk over the plans for this ada relies on in its exhibition building to event that they met in the Pacific Coast day. It is planned to call on Hawaii's city. greater color artists, Lionel Walden, How- Speaking of the Pan-Pacific work Mr. ard Hitchcock, and James A. Wilder for Hunter said : co-operative effort in starting this work in "On my way home I met Mr. Ford Hawaii. at San Diego to keep a cabled appoint- "The American people for obvious rea- ment, and to discuss the proposition of sons are beginning to look toward the Pan-Pacific publicity work by means of a Pacific. Let us meet their expectations special and exclusive exposition at Hono- half way and from now on work with lulu in 1917. Mr. ord has received a the other Pacific countries to keep our very valuable offer from the secretary of attractions permanently before the Ameri- the San Diego. Exposition site and build- can people. The work at the Pan- ings (the city of San Diego) to place the Pacific Building has been the first step entire concern at the disposal of the Pan- in this direction. Its worth has been Pacific Club as sponsor for a Pan-Pacific most flatteringly recognized, for we are exposition in 1917, but we have all agreed invited to follow it up on a larger scale on further consideration of the matter that in 1917, with an eye to future oppor- any Pan-Pacific exhibition should be held tunities. Hawaii has brought the people first at Honolulu, the cross-roads of the of the Pacific together for team work. greatest of oceans. 32 THE MID-PACIFIC
"I immediately saw the tremendous pos- proposition before the Australian lead- sibilities for valuable work which this ers, either government or civic, that we proposition contains, and cordially in- will secure sufficient support to make the dorsed the proposal. Australian end of the Pan-Pacific venture "Of course, in these times of war, it entirely satisfactory." is rather too much to expect our Austra- "I propose to spend two days in Hono- lian government to consider any expansion lulu renewing my acquaintance with the of publicity work, but, at the same time beauty spots of the city, and in fully out- the leaders of our political movements are sufficiently far-sighted to realize that lining with. Mr. Ford the share Austra- the war will • not last forever, and that lia is to take in the 1917 movement, and our tasks will be harder in consequence also, incidentally, as a vice-president, to of our tremendous sacrifice, and therefore shoulder some of the burdens of the gen- we cannot afford to ignore practical com- eral work, and so help to relieve Mr. mon-sense business methods. Ford of some of the work of general "I expect to find, when I place the organization."
Viaduct and entrance to the 1916 Exposition at San Diego. A busy New Zealand waterfront.
New Zealand Today
By CONSUL GENERAL ALFRED W. WINSLOW, Auckland. •
EW ZEALAND has a population amounts to about $1,250, and the foreign of about 1,200,000 and has great trade reaches about $200 per capita per N natural resources, fertile soils, a annum. To date, less than one-tenth of delightful climate, and beautiful scenery. the available land has been put under cul- The Dominion has apparently solved some tivation otherwise than for grazing, and of the more important social and industrial much of that area even is not well culti- problems in regard to labor and capital, vated. and the working classes may be said to en- The port of Auckland made a good joy quite ideal conditions; wealth being showing during 1915 both financially and more evenly divided than anywhere else commercially, and in these particulars in the world. There are few millionaires fairly represented the country in general. in New Zealand, but the per capita wealth Auckland is the principal city of the Do-
33 34 THE MID- PACIFIC minion, with a population of about 120,- able, especially for 1915, when prices of 000, and is admirably located to become butter and cheese were very high and the an important commercial center. It has a United Kingdom took the entire product splendid harbor, and the business men of available for export, which was valued at the city are wide-awake and progressive. $16,016,580 for the nine months ended Financial conditions in general in New September 30, of which amount $6,811,- Zealand in 1915 were exceptionally good, 114 was for butter and $9,205,466 for the total revenue of the New Zealand cheese. Government amounted to $63,912,231 Up-to-date dairy machinery and meth- and the total expenditure to $63,196,179, ods are employed, such as cream separat- leaving a balance of $716,052. ors, milking machines, churns, etc., many During the next few years the United being of New Zealand manufacture. States will be taking much more in im- Especial attention has been given to the ports from New Zealand, such as wool, development of milking machines, which fresh meat, butter, and cheese, which will seem to have reached a very practical have a tendency to increase American sales stage. There are 403 cheese and butter in this field. The sooner some definite ac- factories in New Zealand, with a total ca- tion is taken along this line, the better for pacity, according to the latest available ali concerned. figures, of 31,858 tons and 40,247 tons, Only one American vessel touched at respectively, and the industry is rapidly Auckland port during 1915, as against two developing. for 1914. Much care has been taken to develop Road building is quite extensively carried the milk and butter-fat producing cow, on, and a scheme has been put on foot to and with good success, for quite a number build a national automobile highway from of cows in the Dominion give more than Auckland to Wellington, a distance of 10,000 pounds of milk per season, contain- 428 miles. Quite a portion of the road ing more than 500 pounds of butter fat. now is in fair condition. The estimated New Zealand is an agricultural and cost of this work is $1,459,950. pastoral country, and the future promises The harbor improvements in New Zea- much for these industries, especially for land are generally in charge of the har- the latter. There are 16,265,890 acres bor board at each port and not the New under cultivation, of which more than Zealand Government, and with splendid 14,000,000 acres are seeded to grass. Only results, for New Zealand is well prepared 1.729,504 acres are under crop, and 32,733 to handle the commerce of the country. acres in orchards. Besides the above, This is especially true of the port of 23,972,236 acres of native pasture land Auckland, where the harbor board con- are privately owned. Of the foregoing trols over 73 square miles, with about amount 8,128,000 acres are held by 90 194 miles of seaboard. This is one of the persons, in some cases individual holdings safest harbors in the world. exceeding 150,000 acres. The Land Board It is proposed to cut a ship canal across of the New Zealand Government is taking the isthmus dividing the waters of the over these large tracts and opening them Pacific at this point at an estimated cost to settlement to meet the demand on the of $6,083,125. This would shorten the part of small farmers for the land. route to Australian ports from 100 to 200 Many projects are under way to de- miles and that between Auckland and velop the wild lands, such as draining Wellington by sea more than 200 miles. low and swampy lands and improving The dairy industry in New Zealand is transportation facilities for the interior growing rapidly and is exceedingly profit- sections, and all with good results. THE MID- PACIFIC 35
The fruit-growing industry is becom- 300, and comprised 392,908 quarters of ing an important factor in the develop- beef, 2,169,152 carcasses of mutton, and ment of the Dominion, covering in all 3.058,021 carcasses of lamb, exported in about 40,000 acres, and including prin- sixty-two steamers. cipally apples, peaches, plums, pears and Kauri lumber, which is considered the gi apes. The fruit in general ranks very best finishing lumber on the market here, high, and this is especially true of apples, retails at $68.13 per thousand feet for which are exported to quite an extent to first-class undressed inch boards under 24 the United Kingdom, Argentina, and feet in length, $54.74 for medium class, Uruguay, amounting in all during 1913 and $34.06 for second class. Oregon ta 1,505,443 pounds. An effort is being pine is $58.39 to $63.26 per thousand made to greatly increase the export trade. feet in the rough, same dimensions. .Lr1 local publication called attention to the The cost of living has materially in- fact that New Zealand was well suited creased since the war broke out, and no to supply the United States with fruit in indication is seen of a decrease soon, save the off season. in the matter of rents, which have decreas- The raising of cattle and sheep is the ed fully 5 per cent during the last six most important industry of New Zealand, months. The increase for groceries aver- having contributed $121,195,108 of the ages 14.9 per cent since August 1, 1914; tc.tal exports amounting to $145,851,803 meats, 12.7 per cent; provisions, 11.8 per for the year ended September 30, 1915, cent; and dairy products, 4.6 per cent, and it is growing rapidly. About 450,000 with a marked advance in clothing, fur- horses, 2,300,000 cattle, and 25,000,000 niture, and imported articles in general. sheep were reported in this Dominion at Notwithstanding this, practically no desti- the end of 1915. tution exists in the country, for a large The climate is ideal for sheep raising majority began early to practice economy. and the wool is of a high quality. The The people in general are well housed, mean temperature at Wellington, which is and it would be difficult to find anywhere located near the center of the Dominion, better home conditions than are found in is 62.1 for the summer months and 47.9 this Dominion. A large proportion of fcr the winter months. Practically no the people of New Zealand own their feeding is required, live stock being able own homes, which are largely of the bun- to graze the year round, which makes it galow type, on fair-sized, neatly-kept lots exceedingly profitable for sheep raising, Labor is well employed in New Zea- since the lambing percentage is from 90 land. No strikes of importance occur. to 105 per cent, besides an average fleece Wages in general have been good, but of between 9 and 10 pounds per annum. there has been no marked advance, since North Island contains about 54 per this matter is largely regulated by the cent of the sheep and 79 per cent of the Government labor bureau and trade cattle, and this is largely due to the mild- unions, and no person is expected to work er climate and greater rainfall. The bet- for more or less than the wage fixed by ter grades of wool are grown in South authorities and trade unions. Following are the rates of wages pre- There are thirty slaughterhouses in the vailing in Auckland and its vicinity at Dominion, with a cold-storage capacity of present as fixed by the dierent labor 15,000 to 250,000 sheep carcasses, and awards: more are under construction. The ex- Barbers, $13.38 per week ; blacksmiths, port of chilled meat for the first ten 27 to 32 cents per hour; bricklayers 39 months of 1915 was valued at $30,172,- cents per hour; butchers, $12.16 per week; • 36 THE MID-PACIFIC
carpenters, 36 cents per hour; carriage The public schools are supplemented by makers, 33 cents per hour; clerks, $5.46 manual training and domestic science work to $12.98 per week; coal miners, $2.31 to under competent instructors trained in nor- $2.73 per day; day laborers, $1.70 to $2.31 mal schools. Agriculture is being taught per day; electricians, 33 to 36 cents per in many of the country schools with splen- hour; farm hands (with board) $4.86 to did results. $7.29 per week; girls in shoe factories, Canadian interests have been making $6.86 to $8.51 per week; harness makers, a strong bid for the trade of New Zealand 28 cents per hour; painters, 33c per hour; with good success, having increased im- plasterers, 36 cents per hour; plumbers, ports from $2,402,751 during the year 34 cents per hour; printers $13.38 to ended September 30, 1914, to $3,244,953 $15.80 per week; servants, $3.40 to $6.07 for 1914-15. This was largely due to the per week. preferential duty in favor of Canada and The hours fixed vary from 45 to 48 direct subsidized steamship lines to handle per week, and overtime is usually paid at the freight. Canada has a trade commis- a one and one-half rate. sioner located here and there is a strong Much aid is given by the New Zea- disposition on the part of both Dominions land Government to aid the working to favor each other in trade. classes, such as advances for building of homes, accident and sick relief for one or It behooves the American manufacturer more members of the family on payment to get a foothold here now, when there is of a small amount weekly, old-age pen- a demand for American goods, and to do sions upon reaching the age of 65 for this so well that his customer will dislike males and 60 for females if without an to break with him. This is no time to income of $292 and unable to care for unload off-color goods in this part of the oneself, cheap life insurance, etc. world. Everything must measure up to The sanitary conditions in New Zealand sample. are quite ideal. The birth rate is 26 The following table shows the foreign per 1,000 and the death rate is less than 10 per 1,000, these being the averages for commerce of New Zealand for 1914 and the past ten years. 1915, as divided by countries:
Countries— Imports from Exports to 1914 1915 1914 1915 United Kingdom $58,329,606 $54,218,002 $104,064,705 $123,555,713 anada 2,331,735 3,882,571 2,898,541 4,505,518 Australia 3,376,371 3,554,535 9,384,607 12,402,786 Belgium 537,218 17,281 7,592 5 France 718,670 643,356 1,104,827 10,511 Germany 1,907,572 53,489 2,219,917 15 Netherlands 618,230 400,784 3,645 15 _J.:Tan 912,473 1,480,983 289,596 668,968 Philippine Islands 107,121 117,706 151 54 United States 11,110,054 12,654,107 5,003,025 9,764,606 All other countries 26,323,641 28,711,557 2,824,726 3,597,829
Total 106,362,691 105,743,371 127,801,332 154,506,080 THE MID- PACIFIC 37
Japanese interests have greatly increased Other goods just arrived are locks, shelf the sale of their wares in New Zealand, brackets, sash brackets, sash rollers, and and they seem to be awake to the future. hasps and staples. Leather purses (all They are pushing for better shipping fa- grades and varieties), scents and soaps, cilities, which promises to result in a line lead pencils, ink erasers and stationery of from Japan to New Zealand, via Aus- all kinds, fountain pens, surgical and rub- tralia, which will mean much for Jap- ber goods such as hot-water bottles, bar- anese trade in these countries. bers' instruments, vacuum flasks, Panama There is hardly a manufactured article hats, basket ware and suit cases are only that Japan is not turning out at the a few of the Japanese lines to recently find present time, says the New Zealand Her- their way to the Wellington market. In ald, and she makes no secret of the fact brush ware the Japanese have made great that she is endeavoring to get a strong strides, and they are now going in for the hold on the world's markets, especially better quality of article. those that were formerly flooded with Foreign commerce between New Zea- German goods. During the last month or land and the United States has been in- so there have arrived in Wellington goods creasing very rapidly during the past few that prior to the war Japan had not at- years, and this was especially true in 1915, tempted to manufacture. These include as indicated by the following table giving ircnmongery and such implements as gar- den tools, which are evidently intended to the imports and exports for the last four he a replica of the American-made article. years: Imports Total from Exports United United to United States Years— States States trade. 1912 $9,974,466 $3,022,038 $12,996,504 1913 10,258,533 4,438,496 14,697,029 1914 11,110,054 5,003,025 16,113,079 1915 12,654,107 9,764,666 22,419,773
The foregoing statement shows that ex- ness in New Zealand for American manu- ports to the United States have increased facturers if they will come after it, in- much more rapidly than imports from the stead of waiting for the merchants of this United States. The president of the country to go after it with the cash in Auckland Chamber of Commerce says: hand. This field is ready for active "There is no doubt that one of the work, but customers must be looked principal causes for the increase in our up and allowed fair credits, such as exports is the larger quantity of wool sight draft against shipping documents at shipped direct to American ports since the port of shipment, or 30, 60, or 90 days removal by the United States authorities for some lines. There are plenty of re- of the import duty on wool. The exact liable houses here that have been enjoying figures are not yet available, but it may, these concessions from European manu- I think, be safely assumed that wool to facturers and will return to them after the value of at least one million sterling the war closes, unless the American manu- has been purchased for American accounts facturer and exporter establishes himself during the last two or three months." on a similar footing and is ready to give There is a large amount of good busi- similar accommodations whenever possible. 38 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Palace of Fine Arts at the Panama Exposition, Panama City.
The Administration Building at the National Exposition of Panama, Panama City.
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Palace of Agriculture at the National Exposition of Panama, Panama City.
The Panama National Exposition
By THE EDITOR OF THE PAN-AMERICAN, UNION BULLETIN.
HE Panama National Exposition added to the interest of the occasion, while was formally opened with appro- official receptions, fireworks, and a general T priate ceremonies on February 6, illumination made up the program for the 1916, and is now complete and in full op- night entertainments. eration. The opening address by the The exposition grounds are just north of President of the Republic of Panama, Don the city of Panama, on the shore road to Belisario Porras, was the chief feature on old Panama, the ancient ruins of the city the afternoon of the opening, the grounds m ade famous in the tales of the buccaneer- having been thrown open free of charge ing days of the Spanish Main and which to the large crowd in attendance. Parades was finally sacked and destroyed by that of school children, of the various fire de- doughty old pirate, Morgan. They rise in partments, and of the uniformed police a gentle slope from the beach of the Bay
39 40 THE MID-PACIFIC
Palace ,of Education, Panama Exposition. of Panama. The "Gran Vila," or central management has succeeded in collecting a promenade of the exposition commands a splendid variety of specimens showing the fine view of the bay, of its little fortified diversified fauna and flora of the country. islands, and of the vast expanse of the open As an instance may be mentioned the fact Pacific beyond. To the right, as one looks that among the many varieties and species out over the bay, is the city of Panama of birds exhibited there are no less than extending seaward to a point, while to the twenty-five different species of pigeons and left, at but a little distance is the edge of doves. Many specimens of large and small a dense forest. Far beyond this forest, mammals and of rare species of fish are perhaps some sixty miles away, stands the among the most interesting of the exhibits, celebrated "peak in Darien" from which while the forestal wealth of .the country is Vasco Nunez de Balboa first beheld the demonstrated by samples of hundreds of great ocean called by the Spaniards the varieties of fine timber and cabinet woods. "South Sea," little dreaming that 400 Among them are samples of wood that is years later an exposition would commem- lighter than cork, while others are of tim- orate the event especially in his honor. ber that is heavier that water. The for- Arranged in squares about a large cen- ests of Panama, containing many of the tral plaza are the seven principal struc- most valuable cabinet woods known, have tures of the exposition. These are the as yet remained practically unexplored. Hall of Fine Arts, the Education, Com- Millions of acres of dense tropical forests merce, Agricultural and Horticultural, have never been explored and await only and Administration buildings, and the fine the advent of men with sufficient capital to permanent edifices of Spain and of Cuba. add their riches to the world. After the close of the exposition the two To many of the Latin-American visi- last named are to serve as the permanent tors the exhibition of the United States homes of the legations of these countries, Government is perhaps the most interest- Of the buildings erected by the Govern- ing. The United States commissioner, Mr. ment of Panama two are also of perma- William E. Tuttle, succeeded in his efforts nent character, one being destined to serve to have the United States transfer its fine a. the permanent official residence of the exhibit from the great Panama-Pacific Ex- Presidents of the Republic and the other position at San Francisco, after its close, to be transformed into a national museum. to the exposition at Panama. As a conse- The most important features of the ex- quence, it is the best and most comprehen- position are the exhibits of the natural re- sive exhibition the United States Govern- sources of the Republic of Panama. The ment has ever sent to a foreign country. In THE MID-PACIFIC 41 it are included exhibits of every govern- dance and attested their appreciation of the mental department, among the most not- active participation of the United States in able being those of the Army and Navy, the exposition. The President of Panama the Public Roads Office, the Geological and other state and exposition officials Survey, the Coast Guard, the Bureau of were entertained at a luncheon by the Standards, the Bureau of Lighthouses, the United States commissioner, the day's ac- Panama Canal, the Bureau of Mines, the tivities adding materially to the already Bureau of Fisheries and the Bureau of cordial relations existing between the rep- Education. In addition to these exhibits resentatives and peoples of the two re- splendid motion pictures of the multifold publics. activities of the United States Government Considering the disadvantages and han- are presented daily in the theatre in the dicaps under which Panama has labored Hall of Commerce. to launch this exposition at a time when In accordance with the general custom the financial depression resulting from the of expositions, the management of the European war has prevented the full co- Panama Exposition has set apart certain operation of other foreign governments days in honor of the various nations par- except those of Spain, Cuba, and the ticipating. The anniversary of Washing- United States, the Government of the Re- ton's Birthday, February 22, was desig- public and the management of the exposi- nated as "United States Day," and upon tion are both to be congratulated upon this occasion was declared a nationol holi- their success. The exposition stands today day, marking the formal opening of the as an example of the energy, courage, and United States exhibit. The occasion was independence of the Republic of Panama, celebrated most enthusiastically. Appropri- and will accomplish much in the way of ate exercises were held and the day was showing to the world something of the fine celebrated by military maneuvers, drilling spirit of its people as well as of calling contests, various games, and athletic con- attention to the great natural resources of tests. Over 15,000 people were in atten- the country.
The Panama Canal. 42 THE MID-PACIFIC
Hale, in Hawaiian, means "house," and a-ka-la means "of the sun." At dawn, when the clouds come pouring over the rim of Haleakala and fill up the vast crater with fleecy whiteness, it is indeed the house of the sun, for the day god soon turns to crimson the fleecy clouds and drives them from his abode.
The Silver-Sword, Which Grows Only in "the House of the Sun."
Alone Before "The House of the Sun 9 9 A graphic description by one who has viewed the greatest wonder of the world.
By JOHN P. CLUM •;•
HOUSANDS of tourists and world; that its rim rests 10,037 feet many scientists have seen and mar- above the surface of the sea; that the cra- Tveled at the wonders of Halemau- ter includes an area of over seventeen mau, "the house of everlasting fire," in square miles—more than 11,000 acres; the volcano of Kilauea, but comparatively that the great pit is about 2,000 feet deep, few eyes of the present day have looked and that some of the cones rise more than upon the wonders of the island of Maui, 1,000 feet above the floor. That is all I the second in size of the Hawaiian Isl- knew of Haleakala. ands. To me, this "valley isle" is the most interesting of the group. Passing through the beautiful Iao Staunch animals were provided for the (bloody) Valley, one sees on either side final eight-mile trail trip to the summit, great canyons, towering peaks, tumbling which trail zig-zags up the western slope waterfalls and sweeping vistas in the midst of the mountain. Bravely we penetrated of exquisite draperies of tropical foliage, the chilly mists of the cloud belt which but a new zest permeates the soul as we ercircled the great peak and effectu- near the beginning of our trip to the ally obstructed the view. Thus we summit of Haleakala, "The House of the ploded slowly upward until within about Sun." a mile from the summit, when, suddenly, I had learned that Haleakala is the we broke through the mists and emerged name of the largest extinct crater in the into the bright sunshine, and half an hour
43 44 THE MID -PACIFIC later were standing by the stone cabin draws one nearer and nearer to the brink close to the crater's rim. We paused a in order that the eye may command every moment for rest and reflection and from detail of the soul-stirring panorama. I here I went on alone. found myself unconsciously muttering such An extraordinary vista stretched away week words as "wonderful," "glorious," toward the western horizon. The can- "magnificent," "tremendous," "superla- yons, the lower reaches of the mountain tive." slopes, the plantations, the villages and Who can picture the undescribable? the sea were submerged in the masses of The walls of the crater in some parts are billowing clouds which rolled beneath us, bare and sheer from rim to floor, other while in this higher world to which I had sections have been reduced to steep grades ascended all was bright sunshine—and Jo by disintegration, while at two points the it should be—for had I not arrived at walls appear to have been torn away by the very portal of "The House of the some tremendous explosion, thus allowing Sun ?" egress to the sea. Favored, indeed, was I among mortals The vast floor of the crater—seventeen to be thus permitted to stand in the clean square miles in area—is occupied with a air of. this altitude, the island peaks jut- score or more of cones, some exceeding ting here and there above the surface of 1,000 feet in height, which are doubtless the bright cloud-sea around me, the slant- the result of the final convulsion. With- ing rays of the descending sun already in each cone there is a crater from which scattering a myriad of softest tints, and (long ago) roared great columns of flame myself conscious of the fact that a few --marking the death throes of the ex- more steps would unfold to my enrap- piring monster of the pit. tured vision the mysteries and the mar- You will undertake to imagine the vels of the great Haleakala. great crater as it was when filled with a seething lake of molten lava like Kilauea, As I turned toward the rim, the bright and then you will endeavor to picture the afternoon sun was at my back pouring a final grand but terrifying display when flood of light into the crater, illuminating the cones were formed. But very soon every surface that could meet the eye, you will abandon the fanciful and devote developing the complete scope of the yourself to a full enjoyment of the regal mighty crater and emphasizing every de- reality. tail of form and color. The final eruption appears to have emit- With keenest expectation I moved to ted chiefly sand and cinders, and so in- the brink of the yawning abyss. Suddenly tead of huge masses of black, jagged and the curtain began to fall away—for the repelling lava, the great floor of the cra- picture opens from the rim downwards. ter is filled with symmetrical cones of In an instand the vast crater lay un- soft appearing material (sand and fine folded before my astonished vision. So cinders) with every surface smoothed and quickly does the marvelous panorama rounded and many of the crests and slopes broaden and deepen and flash into view reflecting a variety of rich colorings in that the mind is momentarily dazed with reds and browns and grays and blacks, the magnitude and the magnificence of harmoniously blended, and which impart the gleaming spectacle. wonderful brilliancy and life and beauty I found that my anticipation was puny to the scene. in comparison with the sublime reality. Here, indeed, is the regal throne of the The majesty of the scene irresistibly fire-goddess Pele at the zenith of her reign THE MID-PACIFIC 45 •
of might and terror, and although she cupied our own sunlit world—high up has removed her abode to the Halemau- —ten thousand feet above the surf— mau of Kilauea, she has left her royal with a landscape of soft, rolling clouds apartments at Haleakala completely fur- stretching away beneath, and yet other nished and ready for instant occupation filmy clouds to catch and hold the sun should she determine at any time to re- tints in the heavens. sume her fiery sway on Maui. And so the sun went down in a regal The scene at Kilauea's brink is more splendor of gold and russet and crimson, or less terrifying, but there is no sensation and the rich and ever-changeful glow of fear of the mighty forces that were lingered long, and the clouds below and once supreme at Haleakala. Here now the clouds above snatched every color from one is conscious only of grandeur and the changing lights—while directly in the tranquility and peace—a magic in the zenith poised the silver moon. The splen- silence and the desolation and the solit- dor and the glory of the sunset on the tude—an unutterable majesty in the calm one hand and the majesty and the gran- repose. deur of Haleakala on the other—and 1 One is opposed with a mingled feeling alone upon the crater's brink. of humility and of gratitude: humble in the presence of such evidences of infinite I thought of the millons who would power, and grateful for the rare privilege never stand on Haleakala's towering crest of viewing the marvelous spectacle in all and see what I had seen. I stood amazed the majesty of its grandeur. to think that profligate Nature should It does not seem possible that the pic- provide such a glory for the delight and ture could be extended and yet Nature, exultation of one poor soul—conscious of so generous and so prolific, permitted me but one regret that I was alone. to view from Haleakala's lofty brow one Anon the soft lights faded and the shad- of the most glorious sunsets that mortal ows fell, and one by one the bright stars eye ever witnessed. swung to their appointed places in the Remember that Haleakala and I oc- tranquil heavens.
In the Crater. THE MID-PACIFIC
•:*
Percy Hunter, the organizer and director of the now world-famous Government Tourist Bureau of New South Wales, has made a wonderful record in Australia, raising hundreds of thousands of pounds for the Belgian relief funds, and this in addition to con- ducting Challis House, Sydney, and the great buildings on Mel- bourne Place, Strand, London. Hotel Kosciusko and the Tennis Courts.
The Tourist Bureau of New South Wales Its business methods described by its organizer and director.
By PERCY HUNTER
4 ACH succeeding year shows grati- crease in the numbers of the traveling pub- fying results of the work done by lic. Our objective—that the New South F the Tourist Bureau of New South Wales public should know their own state Wales. This is evidenced in a marked first—is also meeting with recognition from degree by the number of local bureaux those amongst us who annually take holi- established not only in our state but days, while the world-wide distribution of throughout the Commonwealth. Local our literature is having the effect of bring- bodies, notably at Bathurst, Braidwood, ing to New South Wales a larger propor- Wollongong, and other centers have tion of old-land visitors than ever before. sought our advice in the formation of local This increase of oversea visitors is inducing ' bureaux, where visitors are accorded a the shipping companies to build larger and welcome and information. These increas- faster steamers, and the inter-state com- ing facilities to tourists, as well as the panies find that their enterprise in placing well-known factors of good seasons and large up-to-date vessels on the coasts is larger and better steamship accommodation, meeting with satisfactory results. have all tended to produce the marked in- Special effort is directed to the prompt
47 THE MID- PACIFIC discharge of another important function, conducted tours were arranged over these namely, the answering of the inquiries routes. The Federal Territory and Bur- which flood the Bureau immediately after rinjuck is a popular trip, which tourists the arrival of the ocean steamers, particu- will be encouraged to make as soon as larly those from America, and in this con- better facilities are available. nection it should be stated that the daily An unprecedented development has been advent of the commodious inter-state liners' made in the regular motor services of this visitors keeps a throng of travelers con- state. Powerful transportation companies, stantly moving through the Bureau. Par- with numbers of well-equipped and luxuri- ticularly at the Jenolan Caves and the ous touring cars, now conduct regular ser- Hotel Kosciusko is the increase of oversea vices between many towns that are not tourists marked. This influx is having an linked up by rail. Particularly is this effect upon the metropolitan hotels also, noticeable on the North Coast and North- where at certain seasons of the year great ern Tableland. A new service is now run- difficulty is experienced in securing accom- ning from Taree to Grafton, connecting nioaation. I am glad to notice the enter- up-the-river towns. Well-appointed cars prise exhibited, whereby many of our lead- also run regularly from Armidale, Glen ing hotels, both in city and country, have Innes and Tenterfield to the river towns been modernized, and I feel sure the capi- and also the middle west. With head- tal so invested will, eventually, pay hand- quarters at Cooma and Bega, well-estab- some dividend:, I cannot let this oppor- lished companies now operate throughout tunity pass without specially referring to the whole of the southern districts, stretch- the enterprise which has brought about the ing from Nowra to Eden and across to improvement in a most marked manner of Tumut. These companies open up very several of the hotels on the Blue. Mountains. great possibilities, and it is frequently found It is to be regretted that this spirit has that owners of private cars prefer to not been evidenced in some of our country travel by the regular services or obtain towns where traffic has increased in a special cars from the companies, finding marked degree, but accommodation for that the comfort is just the same, whilst travelers has been allowed to remain hS worry and a good deal of expense is it was years ago. Nevertheless, in some avoided. A popular motor service is places the installation of lighting, water that now provided between the train and sewerage systems has wonderfully im- terminus at Narrabeen and Pittwater. proved many hotels. Some kind of super- The commodious touring car which vision should be given to boarding and ac- leaves the Tourist Bureau twice daily for commodation houses so that a guarantee trips round Sydney, varying on one day can be afforded to the public that sanita- to National Park and another overland tion at least has been properly provided. to Narrabeen, has been well patronized ; Tourists often complain of the absence of and there is no doubt that in the near even elementary comforts in these particu- future this traffic will extend very con- lars at some of the fashionable resorts. siderably. Those establishments which pay strict at- The Hotel Kosciusko; which is owned tention to such details as well as to the by the Tourist Bureau, during the past usual and more apparent comforts reap the twelve months, has experienced the most reward of the foresight. successful year since it was built. Con- The opening of the railway to Taree tinuing under the same able management, has made possible new round-tours, return- the enlarged building, completed since my ing via Myall Lakes or steamer from Port last report was submitted, has at times Macquarie and Kempsey, and personally been taxed to its utmost capacity — a THE MID-PACIFIC 49 pleasing and hopeful feature being the in- ably the equal of any trout fishing in creased patronage afforded the hotel dur- the world. Fresh fry, supplied by the ing last summer. Now that the building Fisheries Department, is placed in suit- —containing a ballroom, billiard-room, able places in the mountain streams each and practically every modern convenience season, with a view to assuring the future and comfort—has been completed, special of these already famous rivers, from an attention is being paid to the provision of angler's point of view. outside attractions and amusements for Arctic dogs and sledges, presented to the guests. The Kosciusko Golf Club the Government by the management of has been formed, and, as a large num- the Captain Scott and Dr. Mawson Ex- ber of members is enrolled, good sport peditions, have proved attractive and use- during the ensuing season is anticipated. ful features. It is hoped that in the The tennis courts are in first-class or- near future a full team will be ready der, and greatly in demand during the for real transportation work in the snow. summer months. They are being ex- tended at the present time, which fact The beautifully situated lake in front should be an added attraction. A croquet of the hotel has been well stocked with lawn, in a beautiful position overlooking various species of waterfowl, which lends the lake, has been turfed, and should be a live appearance to the scene. Steps in playing condition before the summer is are being taken to secure enlarged re- far advanced. There are at present 45 serves adjacent to the hotel, with the miles of well defined tracks, suitable for view of protecting the natural flora and walking or riding, leading from the hotel introducing attractive fauna. to various sites of interest within easy The winter seasons at Kosciusko have distance of the hotel. The extension of increased the popularity of ice and snow these tracks is being kept in view. sports, and the seasceiust passed excelled The trout fishing in Piper's and Spen- in very respect those Ag.thich preceded it. cer's creeks, Island Bend and Long Cor- It is pleasing to note tht the patrons of ner on the Snowy River, and Friday Flat one year are in many cases the earliest and other points on the Thredbo River, applicants for accommodation for the year all handy to the hotel, has the proud dis- following. There is every prospect that tinction of being the best on the Southern before long the hotel will prove to be an Tableland for last season. It is prob- exteremely profitable state asset.
Ready for a Thrill at Kosciusko. 50 THE MID-PACIFIC
•:*
The great, white, yacht-like steamers of the T. K. K. now carry the fame of Japanese shipping to almost every quarter of the globe. This is the line that a self-made Japanese built up in half a lifetime.
Mr. Asano and Secretary. Japan-America and the Canal Any man who has done what Soichiro Asano has done, is worth listening to.
By SOICHIRO ASANO President of the Toyo Kishen Kaisha, the most important steamship company under • the Japanese flag
Y THE time peace is again re- is indeed a problem which affects every stored, the merchant marine of man and the solution of which will tax B the world will doubtless have the mind of the greatest genius. dwindled into half its former magnificance, Before any attempt, however is made and years will be required for its restor- to solve the problem, it will be well to ation. consider the directions in which the post- But our sense of loss will be even bellum commerce is most likely to move more keenly felt when we consider that and to see who will assume the roles of the first relief to the countries devasted suppliers and buyers in the international by the war must be brought by the ships exchange. and that the progress of rebuilding of The greatest producing nations of Eu- the world's industrial structure must de- rope have been thrown into the vortex pend largely upon the ocean carriers. It of the struggle and their industrial or-
51 52 THE MID-PACIFIC ganizations have been disorganized beyond markets. And in solving this problem, the possibility of recovery for some years we have the aid of the new and signifi- to come. Before the war, Germany had cant Panama Canal, which was opened been pushing the standards of her indus- during the war and the possibilities of trial activities with unparalleled vigor which are yet unknown and untried. throughout the world. But now what- Just how far the new water way, join- ever may be the result of the conflict, it ing together the two great oceans, will does not seem possible that even the affect the movements of the ocean car- dauntless Germans will be able to carry riers, no one can prophesy at this hour, on the campaign of "Made in Germany" and is, in itself, a great question, which is with any degree of effectiveness. Great being studied by the students of inter- Britain, with her highly skilled laborers, national trade. Without doubt, however, engaged in complex and specialized in- quite a large portion of the trade now dustries, will be fully taxed to take care taking the Suez route to the Orient will of her natural market and will not have be turned westward to proceed through the extra energy to meet the demands of the Panama Canal. Moreover, there have the coarser and cheaper trade, especially been in the past years and there are even those of the Oriental markets. The world at the present time, many substantial cargo must necessarily seek for new sources of boats engaged in almost-around-the-world supplies and must naturally turn to the trade: proceeding from New York to Lon- United States and Japan. don, thence through the Mediterranean The present conflict has great moral and Suez Canal to the Orient and on to lessons to teach to the nations of the the Pacific Coast of the United States ; earth, buth warring and peaceful. And and on the return voyages retracing al- I believe that the people of the United -- most the same course in the opposite di- States have been impressed with the stern rection. It is yet premature to forecast messages more than any other. I be- whether these freighters will continue in lieve I am not greatly mistaken in my their accustomed course or will use the impression that the recent tendency in Panama Canal to complete the great cir- the United States toward unnecessary ex- cle and to return to New York to start travagance and frivolity—if I may use over on their world-circling voyage. But that expression to describe the unbounded already many carriers have been sent gaiety, which seemed to have become so around the world with good profit and rampant in the recent years—has been success; and there is much promise of ex- stayed within the past few months. The tensive development in this trade. Americans seem to be facing the terrible Furthermore, I believe there will be realities of life with greater seriousness developed with the Panama Canal as the and are preparing to supply the needs of center, a new and important system of the world. As for Japan, we have here ocean transportation. The comparatively a great population of most adaptable small and slow freighters, engaged in long hands, full of vitality and anxious for voyages, will not prove adequate to meet work, a nation ready and eager to res- all the requirements of the commerce. Fre- pond to the call of the international quency and rapidity of movement will be- market. come the deciding factors in the compe- Thus the problem of the shipping in- tition; and it seems to be more in accord dustry seems naturally to be to furnish with the spirit of the age and demands of those that may be called international the times to look for gigantic and speedy suppliers with the necessary raw materials ocean leviathans, traversing the highways and to carry the finished products to the of the two great oceans, with the Ameri- THE MID -PACIFIC 53
can continent as the center and extending I have tried thus far to express a few on one side to Europe and on the other thoughts, in a rambling way, on how to the Orient. These great carriers will the commerce after the war is most likely be fed with cargoes by speedy coasting to move, and how it will be affected by steamers, running from New York to San the Panama Canal. The expressions of Francisco and Seattle through the Panama this nature, however, are at best beset Canal. And the greatest opportunity in by the weaknesses of speculative thoughts. history will be afforded to the shipping Yet whatever be the actual result, this industry of Japan. much is certain that the new canal will The United States has not been a great bring the nations of the earth into most merchant marine power in the recent intimate touch, and Japan and the United years, and it does not seem probable that States especially will be -brought into the she will make any radical move in this closest of relations. direction in the near future. She has within her own boundaries practically un- There are men who come out in peri- limited resources to develop, requiring all odic spasms, warning against the immi- the energy of the nation, and American nence of a Japanese-American war, but capitalists and laborers are too shrewd to I am one of those firm in the belief that leave their profitable soil to engage in this there will not be any such war. It is uncertain and less lucrative trade of the quite true that in certain parts of the sea. On the other hand, we have in Japan United States there exists strong anti- an overflowing population, accustomed to Japanese feeling, but this is an opinion the life of the sea and crowded within held simply by certain people only and the narrow limits of the island Empire. is an extreme attitude not entertained The valuable American products, produced or justified by the intelligent public. in great abundance, cannot hope to ob- Japan and the United States have long tain the highest economic returns in their been bound together by the closest ties well supplied markets at home; but once of friendship; and in the recent years, brought to the Orient they will enjoy the the traditional relations have been firmly advantages of almost boundless market. cemented by growing mutual interests and And the service of transporting the com- commercial inter-dependence. modities from the producers in America Until recently the United States has to the consumers in the Orient, will nat- been a great customer of Japan, but urally be performed by the Japanese ships. steadily the position has been reversed, I believe my pet hobby is not without and Japan has become a great importer good foundation; and in a comparatively from across the Pacific. Japan today im- few years we will see a mighty fleet of ports from America over 400,000 bales Japanese vessels carrying from the Pa- of raw cotton and 10,000,000 cases of cific Coast ports of the United States kerosene per year, not to speak of im- immense cargoes composed • of the products mense quantities of machinery and other of that coast , as well as those of the in- products; and in exchange for all these, terior and the Atlantic states, brought by she expbrts raw silk, silk goods and tea, the railways or by the coastwise vessels quite inconsiderable in comparison. While through the new waterway. the excess of imports over exports is not The Panama Canal will thus open up always to be welcomed, I rather welcome a new trade route, making the dream of Columbus a reality, and there will be a the heavy importation of this nature from dawn of a new day for the trade on the America, because they furnish work for Pacific and throughout the world. thousands of hands and laborers in Japan. 54 THE MID-PACIFIC "I Blowhole.
♦ The Busiest Volcano in the World Mr. Powe s is, first of all, a scientist, then a lover of the wonderful.
By SIDNEY POWERS, Geological Museum, Cambridge, Mass.
HE first record of the activity of eruption took place. in which bombs, Kilauea is that of a catastrophe. ashes and dust were ejected. In the first T An army of Hawaiians reached section of the army, a few people were .the crater at the beginning of ex- suffocated, and the remainder escaped plosive eruptions which continued for by running. The third section was un- two days while they paused near the harmed, but when it overtook the second crater to make offerings to Pele, for they section, it found them, 80 in number, all were afraid that they had angered the suffocated, through retaining every ap- fickle goddess by throwing rocks into the pearance of life. The remains of these crater. On the third day they left by the victims of Pele's wrath remained unbur- Kau desert on the west, in three divi- ied, and some of the bones were found sions, but before proceding far, a great as late as 1864 on the desert.
55 56 THE MID -PACIFIC
At present Kilauea is a dome rising to crater Halemaumau overflowed was in an elevation of 4000 feet. One side of 1894. Then followed a sudden collapse the dome is buried under .the loftier dome leaving a circular pit 1200 feet in dia- of Mauna Loa, and the slope of the latter meter, on the summit of a broad, low mountain commences within two miles dome inside the large Kilauea sink. This of the summit of Kilauea. The summits crater, Halemaumau, is now the abode of both domes have collapsed to form of Madame Pele, and is still the place oval depressions, or "sinks," the floors of worship of the Hawaiians. of which are covered by fresh lava. The Imagine yourself standing on the Kilauea sink is 3 miles long and 2 miles brink of an almost perpendicular wall wide, with several subsidiary depres- 300 feet or more in height, watching a sions. Near one end of the Kilauea sink lake about 600 feet long and .250 feet is the crater Halemaumau, "the house wide, composed of a yellowish-red mol- of everlasting fire," in which a liquid lava ten lava covered by a steel grey or black lake is usually present. There is no cor- crust of cooling lava through which huge responding crater in the Mauna Loa bubble fountains burst to a height of sink, Mokuaweoweo, but temporary from 10 to 40 feet at intervals of a few lakes are formed on the floor by lava seconds. If the wind is blowing—and which rises through narrow fissures at it usually is—little drops of lava from the time of activity. these fountains and finely-spun filaments The history of Kilauea is known since of glassy lava of a straw color are car- 1823, and, with the exception of an oc- ried up to the edge of the pit. These casional year or two of repose, liquid are Pele's tears and Pele's hair—attrac- lava has always been visible either in tive offerings of the goddess. Halemaumau or other lava lakes. In no other volcano in the world have lava The crusts on the lake are seen to be lakes been so persistently active. This in motion, streaming at a rate of one to history of Kilauea records the slow fill- five miles an hour from one end of the ing of the crater by the fluctuating rise lake to the other. Suddenly the current of the lava, followed by collapse, caused may be reversed and the crusts stream in several instances by lava breaking out the other way. Where the lava is ris- of the side of the mountain and pouring ing the reddish viscous liquid (at 1830° down the sides of the dome into the sea. F.) quickly cools and the surface be- During the maximum rises, lava fre- comes coated over (at 900° F.) with a quently pours over the edges of the lava grey skin which becomes an inch or two lakes on to the floor of the sink. thick as it moves across the lake. The From 1823 until the present time, there currents readily break the skins apart, have been three large flows from fis- forming irregular cracks through which sures in the side of the mountain to the the liquid lava is seen. By the time the sea, probably several submarine flows, skins have reached the center of the lake and two flows in smaller pits near Ki- bubble-like fountains begin to rip them lauea. At intervals of from eight to ten apart. These fountains are caused by years there has been a maximum rise uprushes of gas—the secret of all vol- followed by a more or less pronounced canic activity—and break with great collapse, and a sinking of the lava out commotion on the surface of the lake. of sight, as if the pressure of the lava Gas-free lava is heavier than that con- on the sides of the dome caused an un- taining gas, so after a fountain breaks, derground fissure to open, into which the the heavier lava sinks, sucking in the lava ran. The last time the lake in the crusts as a few small bubble-fountains 411
THE MID -PACIFIC 57 give up the remaining free gas. Occa- brighter color, 'indicating greater heat. sionally traveling fountains appear, and The smoke which obscures the crater move with the current to the shore, when the lake is at a low-level, grows throwing up a continual splash of lava. less as the lava rises, and the smoke- The side of the lake toward which the holes are covered up. Boiling, red pots current moves is generally marked by are seen in various parts of the floor, active fountaining and splashing against looking like ovens and sending forth fes- the shore, usually a wall. If the shore toons of glowing lava which run off is undermined, a splashing-cave or grotto slowly and change color to steel gray, is formed and into it are sucked the then black. Other pots are building up crusts. Again the downrush is caused cones by belching forth huge blobs of by the release of gas, making the lava molten lava that fall on the sides of the heavier. The lava which sinks becomes pot. Then, occasionally the lava rises recharged with gas at some depth be- in the cone and a little stream trickles low the surface and then rises at another down for ten or twenty feet to the floor. part of the lake. Therefore, in order to The lava may rise higher in these pots keep the "pot boiling," only a constant and cones than in the broad, open lake, supply of superheated gas is needed, and only a dozen yards away. At night the the convection currents like the bubbles pit is a beautiful sight ; with the volcanic rising in a kettle, do the rest. fire illuminating the crater as well as the Old Faithful is one of the fountains thin cloud of smoke which rises up from which always breaks at the same place, it ; the lava streaming from one end of near the center of the lake, and usually the lake to the. other where the thin every 20 and 40 seconds. Old Faithful skins are swallowed up with a violent has been noticed for the past seven years splashing noise that sounds like waves or more, no matter at what level the beating on a distant shore ; fresh flows lake may be. It is thought that the main worming their way across the floor in pipe or tube under the lava lake may serpentine fashion ; pots suddenly break- have its center under Old Faithful. ing out and throwing splashes of mol- The surface of the lake is constantly ten lava ten feet in the air ; and little fluctuating in height. As the lake sinks. hissing sounds which are finally seen the walls cave in and the whole floor of to be pale blue jets of that mysterious the crater collapses to form a mass of volcanic gas which has only once been slike-rock. If the lake sinks more than captured by man. 650 feet below the rim, the talus mate- When the lava is falling, the lake be- rial completely fills the hole, forming a comes surrounded by black walls against funnel-shaped depression in which no which the lava-fountains splash. Foun- sign of fire may be seen. It is there- taining is very active, and the whole sur- fore possible to measure the range of face of the lake may be covered with movement only through 650 feet, and it fountains both big and little, bursting is quite impossible to tell how much far- occasionally to heights of from ten to ther down the lava-column sinks, or what twenty feet. With rapid subsidence, the may be the shape of the chamber or pipe down-suck may be so great as to cause below the surface. huge, fiery whirlpools to involve the en- When the lava is rising, fresh flows tire surface of the lake in a mad swirl are usually seen on the floor surround- around which the broken crusts rush at ing the lake. Fountaining is not so ac- a rate of twenty miles an hour. Portions tive, but the lava is seen to be welling up of the shore-cliffs, and even the outer rapidly at one end of the lake with a walls fall in with a crash, developing 58 THE MID -PACIFIC waves which sweep across the lake and struction, over which it poured flows on thunder against the shore. The floor to the Kilauea sink. After the summer around the lake cracks and settles, and solstice the lake suddenly dropped 220 up the cracks comes the sulphur smoke feet in ten hours, and in a few months which acts as if it had been bottled up all sign of fire disappeared. This sud- for a long time and were glad once more den subsidence of the lava-lake was one to rush fortL and obscure the view. of the most wonderful sights ever beheld When carefully studied the fluctua- at Kilauea. On the day before the col- tions are not so irregular as might seem lapse, the lava filled the crater to the on first consideration. There is a daily brim and was running over. The fol- change, occasionally as much as 20 feet, lowing morning the lake had sunk be- which appears to depend on barometric low the rim, and fell steadily at the rate pressure. This may frequently be ob- of twenty feet an hour from ten o'clock served about noon when the lake over- in the morning until eight in the evening. flows a temporary floor on either side, From noon on, the crash of falling blocks only to sink below the level of the floor was heard almost incessantly as the walls an hour later. Then there is the very lost the support of the very heavy liquid noticeable semi-annual change, with a lava. As the lake sank, the walls be- tendency toward a maximum height in came higher, causing larger blocks to November—January, and again in May break off with increased commotion in Earth tides have long been known to the lake. A number of sections of the exist, and have recently been measured bank 200 to 500 feet long, 150 to 200 at the University of Chicago. The lava feet high and twenty to thirty feet thick lake in Halemaumau appears to act as would split off and "with a tremendous a gauge of earth tides, just as a tide roar, amid a blinding cloud of smoke and gauge is used to determine oceanic tides. dust, fall with an appalling down-plunge The earth is subject to greatest com- into the boiling lake, causing great waves pression at the solsticial periods, when and breakers of fire to dash into the air, the sun is farthest north or south of the and a mighty ground swell to sweep equator, and the elastic earth appears to across the lake, dashing against the op- squeeze up the lava in Halemaumau at posite cliffs like storm-waves upon a lee these periods—December and June. The shore." In some of these crashes the moon also pulls upon the rigid earth, al- rocks would not immediately sink, but though in earth tides as contrasted with would float off across the lake like a ocean tides its effect is less than that of floating island, or plunging beneath the the sun. There are other forces, some surface of the lake at first, would re- imperfectly understood, all of which tend appear and float off, although the cold to produce minor fluctuations in the main lava is heavier than the molten lava. solsticial rises and equinoxial falls. Still In January 1910 the lake rose to with- other forces produce the cycles of activ- in 100 feet of the rim of Halemaumau, ity of about nine years length, mentioned and was almost as large as in 1894. above, and cycles of about the same Again in December 1912 and 1914 rises length on Mauna Loa which will be de- brought the lake to comparatively high scribed below. These may be determin- levels, with flows filling up the pit to a ed by the time which it takes the volcano distance of 350 feet below the rim. Dur- to be refilled after the lava has run out. ing the last year, subsidence commenced In January 1894 Halemaumau was an after the winter solstice, the lake sink- immense lake, 1000 feet in diameter, sur- ing over 500 feet below the rim. It rose rounded by a rampart of its own con- slightly with the summer solstice, and THE MID -PACIFIC 59 again in September (to 365 feet below rough, barren lava which is impossible the rim). Sometime within the next to sleep upon, they were forced to return 40 to 50 years, after a period of repose, at once. The second party was caught we may expect another explosive erup- in a sleet storm when encamped on the tion like that of 1789, when the whole side of the mountain and never reached southern part of the island of Hawaii the summit. A few later parties, at great may be covered with ash. hardship and expense, did succeed in In describing Kilauea, Mauna Loa must reaching the summit and watched the not be passed by, for that immense volcano fountains at a distance of over a mile, has its summit only twenty-two miles away but they were unable to cross the rough from Halemaumau, but 10,000 feet higher. lava. The sink is bordered by unscale- Eruptions of Mauna Loa have been rec- able walls which are in places 1,000 feet orded since 1832. The character of the or more in height, and the only place activity of this volcano differs from Ki- where a descent is possible is at the lauea, the difference probably being northern end. While the distance to this largely dependent on the great height. place is not many miles, it requires sev- The eruptive period commences with ac- eral hours to walk over the terrible as tivity on the summit, when a brilliant lava which resembles a pile of clinkers glow is seen from the base of the moun- armed with many needle points. A horse tain, and frequently earthquake shocks cannot be ridden over this kind of lava are felt, announcing the formation of unless a trail has been made, and even lava fountains and a lava lake in the then, one trip up Mauna Loa on the summit sink, Mokuaweoweo. The lava "trail," so cuts the horses' hoofs that the breaks through the floor of the sink in animals cannot be used again for any a narrow fissure, and the highly gas- kind of work for several months. There charged liquid shoots up in fountains as is a movement now on foot to erect a high as from 100 to 600 feet. When the resthouse on the summit and to make a gas-pressure is sufficiently lowered, the better trail. fissure freezes up, and a pause ensues un- The summit activity lasted only forty- til the pressure is greatly increased. Then eight days, so far as is known. This is, the mountain splits, and lava pours out however, but the first stage of the pres- of fissures on the side of the dome, build- ent eruption, for the eruptive period lasts ing up cinder cones at the place of out- over three or four years. The next stage break. This, the second stage, may or will be a lava flow possibly in 1917 or may not be immediately preceded by an- 1918. If we are to judge from the events other outbreak at the summit. of the past, the flows appear to come on On Thanksgiving day, 1914, follow- alternate sides of the mountain with suc- ing a series of small earthquakes record- ceeding eruptions. The last flow in Jan- ed on the seismograph of the Hawaiian uary 1907 came down the southwest side Volcano Observatory, a light was seen and ran over a desert tract of land, on the summit of Mauna Loa. A party across the government highway, and al- made its way to the summit by the sec- most into the sea, a total distance of 18 ond night and beheld an active lava lake miles. The next, flow may break out on with fountains playing continuously to the northeast side and run toward the a height of 150 feet and intermittently town of Hilo. to a height of 400 feet. Because of the A good topographic map of the moun- intense cold at the summit, severe at- tain would show the paths of least re- tacks of mountain sickness, the absence sistance for the lava and so prevent much of any kind of shelter, and the hard, damage to life and property. •
60 THE MID-PACIFIC
r
7, The Chamber of Commerce at Nanking.
American Trade in China Facts, advice and warning from one who is thoroughly familiar with conditions.
By JULIAN H. ARNOLD, United States Commercial Attache. O
T Is almost as true today as it was business to the Chinese market condi- when Christopher Columbus tried tions, and the Chinese goods and ways I to reach the Orient, that the only to the foreign market conditions. The way to have trade with the Chinese peo- Chinese merchant will probably learn to ple is to come after it. do the same some day, but for the pres- The Chinese merchant has not yet ent at least, he prefers to leave this to learnt how to go abroad for trade, nor the foreign merchant resident in China. how to form direct trade connections Some months ago, during my sojourn with merchants and manufacturers in in Hankow, as Consul General, I in- foreign lands. We hear from time to quired of the representative resident Chi- time of proposals for direct trade be- nese merchant as to the possibilities of tween American manufacturers and Chi- more extensive trade relations between nese dealers, but these proposals are that great export center and the United made in ignorance of conditions existent States. The reply which I invariably re- in China. The foreign merchant resi- ceived was, "How can you expect us to dent in China learns to meet and cope do business with the United States when with the peculiar set of conditions obtain- you have no import and export firms in ing in China. He learns how to adapt Hankow capable of doing a large busi- the foreign goods and ways of doing ness?" This reply indicates that the Chi•
61 •
62 THE MID -PACIFIC
nese merchant does not consider himself slightest concession in the way of ex- really prepared to enter into direct busi- penses incident to advertising, working ness relations with firms abroad. It would up and financing trade in China. How be well for the American manufacturer can such a concern justify such action and exporter to bear this in mind and for in light of its professed desire to secure the present at least to depend for his a market in China for its goods? The trade extension in China upon American only answer to this query is that it does firms already established in China or es- not seriously desire or feel the need of a tablish his own organization in the field. foreign market. The German and Japanese manufactur- The American manufacturer is often ers and merchants have not waited for. criticized for his refusal, or at least fail- the Chinese producer and consumer to ure, to quote his prices C. I. F. Shan- come to them for business. Within re- ghai. The Chinese buyer wants to know cent years, no matter where one may what his goods will cost him laid down travel in China, he would have a difficult in his shop and not in New York or in time to go far without encountering a Birds Center, Minnesota. Hence it is Japanese or German merchant in quest necessary that the firm in China, when of trade. These people do not sit in their bidding on materials for the Chinese homes or even Shanghai offices waiting trade, quote cost, insurance, and freight, for trade to filter down through their thus American prices should be quoted agent or compradores to their desks, as accordingly. Where the British. Ger- has been the custom of many of our man and Japanese merchants try to give American merchants in China. The the Chinese buyer what he wants, if they American merchant must learn to get find that he cannot readily be educated closer to the producer and consumer in to want something which they make, the China. To do this he must train men American more often proceeds upon the in the language and customs of the Chi- basis of giving him what he (the Amer- nese people. The new American Cham- ican) thinks he ought to want. The ber of Commerce for China should ar- Japanese merchants are probably the range for classes in instruction in the keenest on meeting the wants of the peo- Chinese language under the supervision ple as they exist. I was told when in of some American well-versed in the in- Hankow that Japanese dealers upon dis- tricacies of the language and capable of covering that following the revolution outlining a course which will be drawn foreigners and some Chinese were buy- up to meet the peculiar needs of young ing up portions of bursted shells as sou- Americans in business in China. venirs of the revolutionary activity about One of the handicaps under which Hankow, shipped in a cargo of old and American houses in China labor is the bursted shells from Japan, especially pre- fact that the manufacturers whom they pared for the purpose, and sold it off at represent out here more often than oth- good profit. This may or may not be erswise refuse to share in the expense of true but it is thoroughly in keeping with advertising, soliciting and financing busi- the Japanese ideas of meeting a demand, ness in China. Responsible American no matter how peculiar it may be. The firms in China are called upon to make Chinese dealer wants his drugs put up in substantial outlays for samples from the 2, 4 and 6 ounce bottles while the Amer- concerns for whom they are trying to ican manufacturer arbitrarily puts them work up a business. A manufacturer in up in pint bottles. The Chinese dealer America who will spare no expense in wants a light green-colored wire screen, getting goods before the consumer at evidently because of superstitious ideas home, will often refuse flatly to make the about color or because he considers that THE MID-PACIFIC 63 dark green painted screen is not new. through the Embassy at Tokio, Japan, in The German manufacturer will give the the latter case to provide against imita- Chinese dealer light green painted wire tion by Japanese manufacturers for sale screen, while the American manufactur- in the Chinese market. Also American er says that he can take dark green wire manufacturers should so adapt their or nothing and the Chinese takes nothing trade marks and "chops" for use in the so far as the American is concerned. The China market that the phrase "Made in Chinese dealer wants a bright finished America," translated if possible into Chi- screw such as is furnished by British nese characters, is made a conspicuous manufacturers and because the American part of the trade mark. manufacturer continues to insist on giv- ing him a dull finished article, American The question of securing Chinese screws are having a hard time finding agencies for American manufactures is favor in China. I might go on enumer- one which should engage the intelligent ating examples of this sort for some time, consideration of those in America desir- specially in hardware and cotton piece ous of finding a market in China for goods lines, but enough has been said to goods which they themselves are not pre- indicate a serious lack of consideration pared through their own organizations to of the demands in this market on the part put on the market. The present Euro- of many American manufacturers. A pean war has accentuated in China, as few Chinese characters on a label will well as elsewhere, national lines. The often do much to popularize a product so-called "Enemy-Trading" restrictions which might otherwise have to struggle adopted by certain communities in China hard to gain recognition in the market are not helping any other than their own of China. Likewise color and design on interests. American manufacturers labels will often help to make for popu- would do well to place their China agen- larity among the consuming public in cies with American firms. I do not mean this country. to intimate that American products have While on this subject of trade marks always suffered because of being handled and designs or "Chops" as the Chinese by other than American houses. I know call them, it is well to warn the Amer- of many American articles that are be- ican manufacturer that the Chinese deal- ing very effectually marketed by foreign er places much importance on the firms. These articles are, generally "Chop" or trade mark and that once a speaking, those which do not come into trade mark is established in the Chinese competition with anything manufactured market it has in itself a distinct value, by the country of the firm holding the especially to the dealer. For this reason, agency, for, other things being equal, a there is offered a great temptation to un- merchant will push the sale of his own scrupulous dealers of other than Amer- country's goods before those of any oth- ican nationality to imitate the trade mark er nationality. I know a foreign firm of a well established article and use the which took the plans and estimates fur- imitation to market a cheaper and infe- nished it by the American manufacturer rior product, which results in eventually for which it held sole agency rights in driving the original article out of the China and sent them to its home office market. To protect against this emerg- for the guidance of its manufacturers in ency, American manufacturers and deal- securing competing plans and estimates. ers should see that their trade marks for On the other hand American manufac- articles which are intended for sale in turers would do well to exercise equally China are registered through the Con- great care in entrusting the agencies for sulate General at Shanghai and likewise their products to American firms. I know 64 THE MID- PACIFIC of Americans who are now traveling ers now in operation on the Pacific un- over the United States in quest of manu- der the American flag be withdrawn facturers' agencies for China. Some of from the Pacific or placed under foreign these men have no connections in China flags, as it seems quite likely may hap- and are not in a position properly to rep- pen. It is evident that the bulk of peo- resent the concerns from whom they are ple in the United States do not appre- seeking agencies. Some hope to secure ciate the direful predicament into which sufficient in the way of retaining fees American trade in China will be thrown from the American manufacturers to by the disappearance of the American keep them going during the years which flag from the carrying trade of the Pa- they try to establish themselves in this cific. The British enemy trading act and country ; some have even no such seri- regulations are so interpreted by the ous intentions, but hope to make an easy British consular authorities in China as living with the aggregate of retaining to make it impossible for American fees ; others secure the agency rights firms to secure space on British ships for with the object of peddling them. The cargo from which German or Austrian American manufacturer should be care- firms or individuals may in any way ful not to tie himself up by agency rights directly or indirectly receive any profit, over more than a comparatively short even extending to the preparation of period, at least until he has thoroughly this cargo for shipment. When it is esti- satisfied himself of the ability of his rep- mated that it is considered that prior to resentative to handle his goods as they the war, upwards of 70 per cent of the should be handled. American manufac- export trade from China to the United turers often grant agency rights in China States (exclusive of tea and silk) was for the whole of the country to a firm done through German firms, who alone which operates only in one section of possess the facilities for the preparation the country. I have known of a case and handling of most of this cargo, one where a large American manufacturing may conceive of the difficulty which concern gave sole agency rights cover- American firms now experience in se- ing China, Korea, Siam and the Philip- curing cargo which does not possess pine Islands, to a firm which confined some enemy taint. British shipping com- its operations entirely to North China. panies are forbidden carrying any enemy If the American manufacturer who con- tainted cargo even though offered by templates securing representation in neutral firms and the bona-fide property China, and is unfamiliar with conditions of these firms at the time of shipment. in the country and without knowledge of British lighter companies are under the the standing of the concern seeking his same restrictions, hence Japanese ships agency rights, will first address the which depend in a large measure upon American Commercial Attache or the British lighters for loading cargo are to American Consul at the port of residency a considerable degree in the same po- of the prospective agent, he may be able sition in regard to neutral trade as the to secure information in regard thereto British concerns. Furthermore, so it is which will undoubtedly be of much as- reported, the Japanese government has sirtance to him. ordered Japanese ships to give prefer- American trade in China is seriously ence to Japanese ports for tonnage. The hampered by a lack of adequate shipping only solution for this deplorable state of facilities. Trans-Pacific rates have ad- affairs in American shipping is the op- vanced nearly 300 per cent since the out- eration of a goodly number of ships un- break of the war. This condition will der the American flag. It is high time become distinctly acute should the steam- that the American people learn from this •
THE MID-PACIFIC 65 experience that it is indeed dangerous China with an estimated population of to our trade interests to have to depend 400,000,000 and with only 6,000 miles of upon foreign bottoms for our transpor- railways as compared with America's tation. 100,000,0000 people and 300,000 miles of China's financial condition as a result railways; China with 1,000,000 spindles of the European war is better now than as compared with America's 32,000,000 prior to the war, for the reason that she and England's 50,000,000 and China with has found it necessary to rely on her an average wage scale about 1/25 of that own resources for money and has since of the United States, offers a marvelous the war floated successfully two large field for industrial and commercial ex- internal loans. It is true, there is at pansion, especially so when we consider present in Shanghai banks, foreign and that the country possesses unlimited un- Chinese, a sum of upwards of $100,000,- developed natural resources, combined 000 (gold $40,000,000) which is nearly with a peace-loving, industrious, hardy ten times that of normal times. This population. America now supplies only 8 money has accumulated as a result of per cent of China's imports. Where else the revolution, rebellion and Japanese are there to be found brighter prospects crisis, but as normal conditions are re- for future development for American stored it will flock back into the chan- capital and enterprise than here in this nels of trade and materially lend a great oldest and most populous of living na- impetus to active industry and com- tions and among the youngest in point merce. of the development of her natural re- The European nations which up to the sources? We have the good will of the outbreak of the present war played such Chinese people to an extent such as is an important part in the commercial and possessed by no other foreign nation. industrial developments of China are by The Chinese people are anxious to do virtue of the war unable to continue in business with us and cordially invite these developments. China will suffer American capital and American brains on this account as she is greatly in need to come to China to take advantage of of foreign capital and skill in the devel- the opportunities here presented. Amer- opment of her resources. Present indi- icans resident in China and engaged in cations are such that we can oniy con- business in this country are ready to do clude that even after the war, European their part, but ask that the manufac- nations will have no money for China. turers and exporters at home play the It appears that America will be the only game and treat them with something country that will have capital for foreign like the consideration which they accord enterprise. China will have to bid along their home trade. The time is now op- with Europe for the capital that Amer- portune for the inauguration of big ica may have to offer. American manu- things in American trade in China, but facturers must appreciate the fact that it will require big men to do the work there can be no trade without capital. in a way commensurate with the oppor- If we would have business in China we tunities presented, hence let the Amer- must be prepared to assist in financing ican manufacturers and financiers send that business. "Trade follows the loan." their big men to this field to cooperate The Chinese people undoubtedly appre- with those of experience already on the ciate the fact that American capital and ground. However, before we can hope enterprise in China are devoid of all poli- for any success in a large way in our tical characteristics, and for this reason trade in China we must have adequate they will undoubtedly be welcomed not only by China herself but by the Euro- American shipping and banking facili- pean nations as well. ties. 66 THE MID-PACIFIC Idols of Wood.
(THE LOG OF THE SNARK) New Hebrides Days Mrs. London continues her delightfully interesting account of the Cruise of the "Snark"
By CHARMIAN KITTREDGE LONDON * 3
Sunday, June 14, 1908. on any day of the week, no matter what the example, went to developing the day's E ARE tired again tonight, and films in the hot Snark bathroom; result, Martin also, for we walked mostly failures. We are all heartbroken, W and climbed a twelve-mile- for the pictures we took of the queer round trip to the bush village, and hairy animals in the bush would have Martin, in addition to scratches, is been invaluable to us. fuming because the Rev. Watt quietly Jack started the day with a hair-cut, but firmly declined to lend his dark-room Henry at the helm—I mean the scissors. on the Sabbath, because of the deleterious I put tapes around my lame ankles and effect it would exercise upon his congre- laced my walking boors tighter than yes- gation. Martin, muttering that he never terday. Said boots, a sailor shirt, broad heard of a native who wanted to work hat, khaki riding breeks, and a 22 auto-
4 Copyright by the author. 67 68 THE MID -PACIFIC matic rifle for sport, made up my equip- of the latter on our part was met by ugly ment. Martin remarked with a smiling scowls. If any savage smiled for any rea- eye that Mrs. London looked "very pan- son, it was momentary, monkeyish and in- tesque this morning." Which rather per- stantly over. sonal observation may be indulgently al- Our way led to the left this time and.. lowed, for Martin has ever been the soul I was not long in getting ahead, for I of impersonal comradeship and delicacy love to go first along a trail and feel toward me. Indeed, the tacit taking of first in a new vista—a sense of breaking me as "one of the boys" has been one of my own trail. I fear there is little of the most charming things about the spirit the burden-bearing, following squaw in aboard the Snark—combined always with my make-up ! We traveled beautiful ferny the ready hand to help and protect "the trails where we had to use both arms to best man aboard," as Dutch Herrmann press aside the enormous green fronds. would say. I remember, one time when But the woods were not so spectacular as I was railing to Jack about the way Cap- on the volcano side, and many a time tain Warren had thrown us down, Jack Jack and I would nurse a homesick feel- chided : ing on the familiarity of this scene or "Yes, I know; but don't forget one that. I even discovered five-finger ferns. thing: he was always good to you, not Flying-foxes drifted aloft, and we heard only in his personal treatment, but in querulous little chatterings among paro- turning over to you any loot of any sort quets we never glimpsed in the thick —whether it was a mat someone had foliage; and there were myriads of wee given him or a pair of gold-lipped pearl green canaries flitting and twittering shells or a pearl." among the lower leaves, and strange small * * * We got away at nine, this time black and white birds with snubby heads. in charge of Mr. Stanton, a true-blue-eyed, The chief articles of export in the New serious-mannered, clean young Colonial, Hebrides are copra, small shipments of the type of earnest, self-respectful Eng- coffee, bananas, maize, sago and in latter lishman, made of grit—so much so that days, diminishing quantities of whale oil, he can never grow fat. He has suffered sandal-wood and beche de mer. Traces terribly from the malignant, devastating of gold, nickel and copper have been malarial fever that all have to reckon found and Martin spied something that with who dally long in Melanesia. he declared was coal. We saw copra dry- The country we traversed yesterday was ing on patches of volcanic rocky ground, quite unpeopled so far as we could see. hot in the sun. But today we passed occasional slovenly We sat to rest in the shade. Jack grass huts, some of them inclosed in and Mr. Stanton talked about wars in pandanus-plaited fences—the only decent Korea and South Africa, and swaped ex- workmanship of any kind that we saw. periences. The women were deadly unfeminine— It is like wandering in Eden to trip nearly resembling the men in face and along in the wilder parts of this blossom- voice, ageless, sexless, dirty; and they and ing isle. As we began to climb moun- their men treated us with an ungracious tain fastnesses to the village, I wondered hospitality that made us think vividly if Jack's and mine were the first boots up and lovingly of the Societies and Samoas. the eyrie runway, for Stanton went bare- In spite of the scant differences between foot and Martin had emulated him. This the sexes, these men are notoriously jealous runway was a perfect approach to a moun- of their females, and any special scrutiny tain stronghold, for the narrow perpendic- THE MID -PACIFIC 69 ular sides were above our heads and the the women, but turned my own side to- point where we emerged in a high mea- ward the women, snapping them while I dow containing the village would mean enthusiastically admired the prospect up- unavoidable death for every single person mountain. who should show himself, were the natives The women were shyly friendly with hostile. Stanton has assured us of our me, from over the plaited screen, and did safety from any tricks, but based the as- a great deal of giggling. The chances are surances upon the fact that he knew the they had never seen a white women be- head man, who was in debt to him for fore, as it is very unlikely that they are certain favors, and we were expected. allowed far from the village, and we are Just the same, when we came in sight told that no white women has been in there was an alert movement ahead of all the village before me. The babies were the figures on the short fine grass where round and dimpled brown cupids, their they lay aboud, and subdued exclamations ear-lobes scooped out and filled with hair- from some grimy hovels of grass, mere pins, bone rings, safety pins—all sorts of roofs without walls, off to the right, "truck" brought home by the foraging fa- where we caught sight of the disappearing thers; and strings of shells girdled their backs of women. pot-bellied little loins. The people are I had never seen animal-hairy humans, polygamous, and the women are equally and the score or so of naked men that fond of one another's children, even in gathered shiftly and uneasily to meet us, the same plural household. One old lady, were for the most part very fuzzy indeed. fat and black and fuzzy, was the picture It was almost a fine black fur that matted of a southern mammy. their chests and limbs. They were better But the gathered clan of obscene, formed and fuller fleshed than the salt- hairy men on the grassy meadow slope, water natives and their faces showed more diversity and character. It was rather their only covering a string or a strap, startling to note that some of them had and a wrapping on bandage of astounding their faces painted—strange countenances phallic advertisement, was a far wilder reminiscent of old civilizations—a notable sight. They were so uneasy, so shifting sprinkling of a Phoenician type ; a de- —lying down, getting up, moving here cided suggestion of the Hindu ; and one and there and back again, like a band of bearded old patriarch, despite unspeakable monkeys, and never turning their backs encrustations of filth ("sty-baked" Mar- to us—a trick of caution that white men tin put it!) was a veritable Moses of the would do well to follow in this corner old Masters—in miniature, to be sure. of the world. We were quite aware that After a long pow-wow on Stanton's our unwilling hosts were armed, too, with part with his chief-friend and the council, spears and bows and arrows, and they it was granted that we might photograph showed their consciousness of our rifles by the men, but not the women. Any at- undisguised covetousness of them. tempt of Jack or Martin to take a snap We did not stay long, and I for one at them where they crept among the felt easier when we were clear of the houses to look at us was met with un- descending runway and in the open once disguised scowls and mutterings. I was more. We ate our lunch under a banyan, allowed to go to the low plaited fence, had a good rest, practiced with our rifles but when I trained my pocket kodak on tiny leaves on top branches of high there was an instant disturbance back of trees, and reached the trader's store in me among the men. So I smiled and good time to pick up Mr. Wyllie for nodded submission and kept the lens on supper aboard the yacht. •
70 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 71
Monday, June 15, 1908. with peroxide of hydrogen. Four of the At three this afternoon Martin started lucers were entirely well by the time we the engine, I took the wheel, Henry his reached Fiji, and the last is almost closed post at masthead, and Jack forward con- up—all of them thoroughly healed from ning. We had intended to put in at the inside out. Wysissi Bay, a few miles from Port Reso- There are myriads of flies in Tana, and lution, but changed our minds after we many of the natives who came aboard had got outside and set our course for the sores, so it is probable Wada got his in- port of Vila, on Efate, of Sandwich fection by these means. Jack has warned Island. him and Martin and the others to use This forenoon Martin, Nakata and our antiseptics on the fresh abrasions they got two Polynesians took the volcanic trip, all on the volcanic trip, but they do not seem barefoot. Wada did not go, as he has impressed. I am not afraid, for I prac- developed a sore on his leg from a cut tically never "catch" anything. he got on the coral—like the one Jack * * * I was up early this morning, in had. They are called Fiji sores, and time to see the sun gild the tops of the Solomon Island sores, so the doctor in green, green hills and light up the helio- Suva told us. Some one called them tropes of the bay. Mt. Yasowa boomed yaws, but Stanton says yaws are a much dully and natives were dynamiting fish. worse kind of sore. One's skin is thin Henry and Tehei went out to get some and tender after a while in the tropics, for our breakfast and came back grinning and the abrasion, say from scratching a from ear to ear, with small mackerel and mosquito bite, is apt to get infected, most a long fish with a red-tipped sword on its likely by flies, and then trouble begins nose. A bevy of low-chattering, watchful and the difficulty of healing is appalling. naked cannibals paddled out aboard, and Jack and I had been so alarmed about his one of them, who seemed a wag among sores that we had privately talked about them, a canny-uncanny wizened ape, in- laying up the Snark in Fiji and getting sisted that he had seen Jack before to a steamer to Australia and doctors. But our gales of glee. Jack is not the one to be idle while he Everybody came to see us off and is waiting. He read up in our little medi- brought basketfuls of fruit and vegetables; cal library abroad, found nothing like his but so far as the kindly Rev. Watt was trouble, closed the books, opened the concerned, Martin remained unforgiving glass doors of our medicine chest and se- of his ruined pictures. lected the most violent enemy he could We ran the engine for three hours, find with which to fight these malignant then set sail; but it soon fell calm, and and active ulcers. "Corrosive sublimate" we are now drifting, with plenty of lee- sounded more fiery and radical than any- way. We are all very alert, for it is no thing else, and he started dosing the five joke to be wrecked hereabout. sores on his instep and ankles (where he Yasowa flared into the sky as dark had scratched Samoan mosquito bites) came on and then a big bright moon rose, with wet dressings of a solution of cor- so we have ample light for our night rosive sublimate, occasionally alternating watches. •
72 THE MID-PACIFIC •
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The • fl Street in Chinatown, Batavia. My First Day In Java . . . I have always said that the greatest and strongest pleasure in life is that first day in a strange new country, when all impressions are new and vivid." FROM THE EDITOR'S DIARY.
E had decided to first see Ba- passed so quickly before our eyes that it tavia from the electric tram. fatigued us to remember things. We W Racing with the tram were passed the private dwellings on the out- little bits of ponies that drew quaint, skirts of Weltervreden with their beau- queer-shaped little cars on which the tiful yards, and everything outdoors. We driver sat crossed legged, and the passen- soon began passing the hotels that for ger with his feet dangling out behind. comfort and sensible construction can give You can ride all day in one of these for Europe "cards and spades." We came three or four shillings. in front of the "Grand Hotel Java" with We passed through the Chinese town, its great park-like entrance that reminds not like our China town, but built in the one of the "Royal Hawaiian Hotel," and fashion of the house in China. Every- I jumped up and choked the Malay con- where were Chinese bazaars and Chinese ductor until he stopped the car. It made shops and Chinese hotels, all picturesque me homesick. I remember once in the and attractive. It is doubtful if you old days when I was in Hawaii, and could burn this section of the city, of was just making ready to board the such solid masonry is it built. The dif- steamer for Sydney, that dear old Bews, ferent sights and scenes and action who did know how to run a real tropical
73 •
74 THE MID-PACIFIC
hotel, mentioned the fact that the summer have made it. Then came a dish with rate at the "Royal Hawaiian" was go- a Dutch name, delicious beans, a lit- ing into effect the next day, $60 a month, tle larger and rounder than the Boston and Bews was then setting a sixteen bean, with which was served a deli- course dinner, the equal of which has cious unknown vegetable and a little never been seen since in Honolulu. It sauce-bowl of melted butter and tiny was like finding money—it was an in- square of crisp bacon. Next came a vestment—it was absolutely saving, so ragout, and oh ! the gravy of that ragout, for three months more I lingered at what and with it there was a vegetable that I considered the most perfect tropical tasted like cauliflower and some other hotel in the world, and I have never vegetable mingled—but deliciously min- changed my mind, for there are possi- gled, and after that there was one of bilitie,-, in the "Royal Hawaiian" that are those pancakes that only the Dutch can unexeJled. However, I wish the stock- make to perfection—a pancake with real holders of the "Royal Hawaiian" could eggs in it, and then the coffee, the real stay for one day and eat one meal in the strong essence of coffee in the bottom "Java Hotel," in fact in any of the hotels of the cup and a silver mug full of hot of Batavia—they may "live and learn." milk with which to dilute it. Yes, I know The plan of the rooms is an improve- Kona coffee is delicious—most delicious ment even on the plan of the "Royal if you will go to the Alexander Young Hawaiian," for each great wide tiled la- Cafe at six o'clock in the morning, when nai is charmingly furnished. In the thick the cafe first opens and the first instal- walled rooms the beds are half a mile ment of coffee is made, and you add your wide, and each room opens into a great ten cents worth of island cream to this cement bath tub three feet deep. And coffee. Even with milk the Javan cof- how airily the rooms are furnished, and fee—but I stop there, I shall not speak yet the furniture is of the most beautiful treason of Hawaiian coffee, it is the best native wood. But the dining room—the in the world whether it is or not, be- dining room is a great building to itself, cause it comes from Hawaii, but anyway under the shade of spreading trees. It I wish that the Kona people would get is not so open perhaps as the old lanai some of this Javan coffee grain and grow dining room of the Royal Hawaiian Ho- it. tel in its palmy days, but it is vastly larg- And here I am two or three hundred er, and the three entrances are immense miles south of the equator, in a nice archways, while around it is a great open large, thick-walled, cool room with tiled lanai, where individual tables are set. roof, sprawled out dictating my daily Such a hotel on Prince Kuhio's grounds, diary to Joe, and the day is scarcely half or on those of the late ex-Governor Cleg- gone, but then in Java one breakfasts at horn, would acquire a frne that I firmly six, lunches at noon and dines at eight believe would resound as fund the world ; in the evening, while the afternoon is and the lunch at the "Java Hotel !" You spent snoozing on the great Dutch bed who have enjoyed your many course te- indoors. dious, machine-cooked meals in an Amer- It was after lunch that Joe and I went ican or an English hotel, can scarcely out to see a little more of fascinating understand the luxury of this change. Java. The banks of the canal are al- The first course was cold ; cucumbers ways spotted with gay-saronged women with mayonnaise spread over chipped washing clothes, and the brown naked iced beets, and served in a seashell ; and boys and small girls in swimming. This then there was soup—a Frenchman must canal flows right by the hotel grounds. THE MID- PACIFIC 75
I say "flows" for a river in the rainy sea- of them sixty feet long are tied together, son races through the city and empties in- their small ends turned up into a sort of to the canal, giving it quite a current, so how, and it is wonderful the heavy that all along the banks native men may weights these craft can carry. We walk- be observed fishing, although I do not ed down the pathway with the canal on believe they ever catch anything, yet the one side and the native houses on the steam tram that runs by the canal always other ; then we wandered down beautiful has a rear flat car filled with fishermen avenues on either side of which were and their great baskets of fish. great open houses, and in some of the Joe and I started in on the fruits of humblest yards scores of beautiful or- Java—what we ate I know not, but I do chids were hanging from trellis work. know that there is a little fruit, about Javanese musicians and Javanese actors the size of a liche nut divided into little came down the street with native bands, bits of slices the shape of those in the while behind them followed scores of orange, which is one of the most deli- people with chairs, and these formed the cious things I have ever tasted. impromptu audience. Some times for a We had crossed the canal and struck mile we did not see a white face—it was off toward the native section, first pass- like being in another world. ing through a street of mixed nations, We just drifted—now we were by the where the rows of buildings built seem- river watching the scores of little brown ingly on the plan of Chinese temples children swimming against the current, formed the street ; and what scenes ! and now we were in the great city square There were men with nothing on but where several games of football were a breeechclout, racing back and forth being carried on at once by whites, part- with great watering-pots hanging from a whites and colored races. On one side stick across their shoulders watering the of the square was the beautiful palace streets. There were men harnessed to of the governor, and on another the great wagons in lieu of horses, and at the end cathedral of the Roman Catholics, with of the street, we discovered a little native its four spires of wrought iron. It was market. Here was every kind of veget- almost dark when we got back to the able, and here and there itinerant res- hotel and we had done the forbidden taurants, and really the viands seemed thing in Java—we had enjoyed ourselves tempting. At the end of the street, near the entire day without any siesta and the market, was a Chinese temple with we enjoyed every moment of it, and now, Doric columns in front, and a portico although it is seven o'clock, there is an which was about as incongruous as our hour before the earliest dinner is served Hawaiian-Chinese temples located on the in Java, and the great cement bathtub second floor of a modern New England with its four feet )f cool water is in- ramshackle frame building. We wan- viting me, and I am going to accept the dered through the spacious temple into invitation. a cocoanut grove, and then found our- * * selves in the midst of a purely Javanese The water held all day in the cement village, where every house was built of encasement was cool and refreshing. laced bamboo and had a thatched roof. After it was over I took a nap before The effect was artistic in the extreme, dinner, and to my surprise I found that and we wandered for an hour in real in Java there are never any bedclothes, Java before we turned back to the canal only a sheet to rest upon. In Hawaii I where the great, long bamboo boats were have never slept without a sheet over lined up. Thirty or forty bamboos, many me, and usually a blanket, so the cli- •
76 THE MID -PACIFIC
mate is much different. I have fallen pered one word to the keeper of the lit- right into this plan of the eight o'clock tle stand : "Durian." He understood and dinner. I like it. It gives time for a took me a little beyond, where in the bath and a snooze after the pleasure and open air stood half a. dozen spiked sour- excitement of the afternoon ; and the sop-looking affairs done up in leaves. dinner was good. Not more than half He gave me to understand that I could a dozen courses, but each one prepared take one of these for ten cents, and by by an artist. Even the spinach was good. sign language gave me to know that There was no bringing you a plate with upon cutting it open I would have to a small portion of meat in a corner and hold my nose. The durian is about the half a dozen canary bath tubs filled with size of an ordinary pineapple with sharp dabs of vegetables. If carrots were spikes all over it. For twenty-five years served they were on the bill-of-fare. I had been longing to sample the durian, Usually I do not like carrots, but tonight and now my desire was to be gratified. I ate more than an ordinary helping. Carefully we carried it back to the hotel Chickens are six cents each in Java, but and out on the lanai I prepared to open this did not prevent the artist in the it. In my youth I had once been forced kitchen putting in plenty of time in the by a lot of newspaper compatriots to preparation of the chicken that was spend the night in the old Charnel House served. After dinner we wandered out Morgue in New York with about thirty to see Upper Batavia (Belleviedeu) by corpses. I anticipated that upon cutting right. We meandered down along the open the Durian the odors of that night canal with its native life, bordered by would be vividly recalled, but alas I was the great shops and beer gardens of the doomed to bitter disappointment. In- Dutch, and then we came to the "Har- side the durian were layers of thick, monie," the club of Java, and one of the beautiful custard and no odor ascended. clubs of the world. There is plenty of Quickly I reached forth and took one ground for such a club in. Honolulu, and of the layers and broke into it with my there should be such a club. The entire teeth, expecting then that I would get effect is in white with great spacious the full smell and endeavor to run away verandas and the entire columned inte- from myself. To my surprise there was rior open to the air. Billiard rooms, din- only a taste of rich young onions and ing rooms, smoking rooms, dancing delicious walnuts mixed. Now I am very rooms, music and reception rooms, all fond of walnuts, but I detest the odor high ceiling and open to the breezes, of onions, so I can't tell whether I like and everywhere men in white, reading, the durian or dislike it. I can eat it but lolling, billiarding and leisurely strolling I do not run after it. Joe took one bite without, and—on the opposite side of the and I thought he would go into convul- street—what a contrast. There we sions. The hotel proprietor who had found a sort of native club. Little stores come over to make the request that we perhaps eight feet square, twenty or take our durian a mile away from his. thirty of them, and each store a para- hotel beat a hasty retreat, and sent a petitic restaurant. I tried to explain to corps of native servants to ask that they Joe that you get different courses all be permitted to deposit the remains on down the line, and to convince him visit- one of the other islands. It was the ed the stalls. Sure enough when we first durian that had ever been opened came to the last booth there was noth- in the hotel. Joe says that he admires ing but fruit. Many of the fruits we Mark Twain and can understand why he had tried during the day, but I whis- tried to persuade some of his friends to r
THE MID-PACIFIC 77 domesticate the beautiful, gentle pole- greatest and strongest pleasure in life cat, but that he can understand no man, is that first day in a strange new coun- no matter how callous, who would at- try, when all impressions are new and tempt to domesticate the durian, and yet vivid. Once more I have experienced I have several of the seeds of my durian, such a day, but Joe says that although and they shall go back to Hawaii. he has enjoyed every moment of it, he My first day in Java has brought back would like to be far away in Hawaii the thrills of travel as they used to pass tonight, six thousand miles away from over me before I settled down in Ha- the smell of the part of that durian that waii, and I have always said that the I ate in my pride.
The Artistic Cathedral, Weltevreden.
78 THE MID-PACIFIC
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• 5.; Captain Cook's Monument, Kealakekua Bay, Kona, Hawaii. • Robert Louis Stevenson In Kona A story told by a personal friend of many of the world's great writers.
By DR . E. S. GOODHUE. (The "Sage of Holualoa", Kona, Hawaii.) • •
Time is yet needed to make it a mat- folks" naturally preferred livelier places. ter of general interest that Jack London "Here in this story of mine is the wish wrote his "Martin Eden" (which Rich- of my heart. Like Keawe I would have ard Le Gallienne in a recent letter to me a house in Kona away from the noisy says he considers Mr. London's best shallows of life," Robert Louis Steven- book), in Kona land, and the curiosity son writes to an English friend. "I could of probably a majority of your readers be satisfied here forever, and I gladly has not led them to find out that Steven- spend a few days in this delightful lava son spent a few of his precious days at forest, while the rest go on to Kilauea. Hookena writing one of his best stories To me these dead fields of stone are as —"The Bottle Imp." Yet so it was. fascinating as the activity of Kilauea is Stevenson himself loved the "quiet said to be." spots of the earth," though his "women Stevenson's first visit to Hawaii was
79 80 THE MID-PACIFIC
Made in 1889, from Tahiti on the yacht walls of the "Puuhonua" or Hawaiian Casco. With his wife, mother and some City of Refuge. acquaintances, he occupied rooms at the It was whilst waiting for the return Hawaiian Hotel (his friend Stowward of his party of friends from their visit had told him of this charming place, and to Kilauea that Stevenson must have the view from "The Cupola" of the "dis- composed his tale of the "Bottle Imp." tant Waianae hills") but he did not stay The sole occupation of the Hawaiians long, tiring of "the stir and cackle" of living on the beach at Hookena is fishing Honolulu, and the callers who came to in their slender outrigger canoes, and see him more from curiosity than friend- occasionally surf swimming in the bay. liness. The late D. H. Nahinu's house at Hoo- With all his kindliness and humanity, kena, where Stevenson lived during his he was a man of moods, and unknown, sojourn, is close to the beach, immedi- unwelcome visitors were often shown ately in front of the spot where the semi- scant courtesy. naked fishermen are wont to launch their On one occasion at Waikiki he glared long, narrow canoes ; and it was very upon two strangers (women) who came likely when seated on the veranda in the upon him rather unceremoniously in his cool of the evening and watching the dif- "den." ferent crews paddling to land with their "Get out," he growled, "damn ye, get loads of "opelu" or "akule," that the idea out." of the Bottle Imp came into his head. But no one could be sorrier for what Apart- from the occupation of watch- he said than Stevenson could be, and ing the young men and children amus- none ever made humbler reparation. ing themselves by swimming in the He was never ashamed or afraid to breakers on the top of their surf boards, take back things ; in this quality, and the there is little to interest the visitor to utter simplicity and sincerity of his na- Hookena. ture lay the secret of his many lasting Certainly the view just before sunset friendships. looking towards the palm trees of Kala- Mr. Hammerton tells us in 1907 that hiki and the slopes of the huge snow- "very little has been published about capped Mauna Loa, where the coffee and Stevenson's visits to the Hawaiian Is- awa grow, is enchanting; but unless one lands beyond what he himself wrote of can live on fish and poi, or rice and eggs these episodes in his wander years ;" but (it is difficult to get anything to eat here) we find something in a very interesting one soon tires of Hookena and is glad to contribution to the Scots Pictorial re- get a change to fresh fields and pastures garding Mr. Stevenson's stay at Hoo- new." kena. Under date January 22, 1889, Steven- "His health was so bad—he did not son's mother writes of leeward Hawaii: even get the length of the Kilauea half "Yesterday morning at 10:30 we sight- way, at Hookena, a native village in the ed Hawaii, a lofty mountain with white district of South Kona, island of Hawaii, clouds wreathed about it, above which its and there he remained until the rest of head was uplifted. We were spinning his party returned. along at such a rate that the captain Hookena lies seven miles south from quite thought we should reach Honolulu Kealakekua Bay, the scene of Captain by the evening, and we were pleasurably Cook's death ; and about half way be- excited. tween the two places is Honaunau, where "But alas ! when we got under the lee still stand the remains of the black lava of the land the wind fell ; and this morn- THE MID-PACIFIC 81 ing we are becalmed and only a little matches to light his pipe. It was not so further north than the bay where Capt. with Stevenson. The inexhaustible re- Cook was murdered. This side of Ha- sources of his fancy and imagination waii (about opposite our house) is very gave him as they give others, the subtle bleak and treeless, with high cliffs, and power to see beauty where others find it is hard to be stopped when we are only a "dreary waste." so near port, but I am thankful to say "There was a man of the island of Ha- our food supplies have held out." waii," begins Stevenson, "whom I shall To the average tourist and to some call Keawe ; for the truth is, he still lives, residents themselves, leeward Hawaii, up and his name must be kept secret ; but as far as the forest belt, is a "dreary the place of his birth was not far from waste." Honaunau, where the bones of Keawe To the few who know it well and love the Great lie hidden in a cave." it better, its appeal is strong and intrinsic. It has been said that the original of From Makalawena, along the whole coast "Keawe" is Capt. Simerson of the Ma- line to Hoopuloa, there is not a dull or una Loa ; but this is not so. uninteresting spot; which can be said of I am satisfied that Charles Keike is the few printed pages. man, still living though now very old, The versatile sea with its colors at born "not far from Honaunau—first-rate dawn and sunset, its pertinacity and rest- mariner besides, sailed for some time in lessness always in evidence ; the ragged, the island steamers, and steered a whale broken rocks strewn by hot impulse and boat on the Hamakua coast." hiss of steam, now cold and dead : cliffs, He has led an unusually interesting bays, inlets, sunny curves, pebbly beach- and adventurous life, visited San Fran- es ; little higher up, fields of lava whose cisco and other large American cities, wideness and blackness are an inspira- but returned after all to build him a tion to thought ; then the wooded slopes, "house in Kona—a better place of all the and the summits touched perhaps by a others." flocculent cloud ; above all, the hollowed Here in his garden is a shrub planted Kona sky, deep, blue, imperturable ; al- by the hand of Kalakaua, with roses ways, too, the air moving back and forth from Queen Emma's bush, and many from mountain and sea in studied ex- plants the gift of the present Hawaiian change ; in mildness and purity ; with a queen. A comfortable house it is ; pic- serenity that pervades day and night tures on the walls and toys on the tables, alike. with verandas where I have spent many Even here one must come at last -to a an hour listing to the old man's talk. question of eating, but I do not know Near the Nahinu house lived Keawe that Kona is worse rationed than other and his wife, both dead, but they talked country sections of Hawaii. Most trav- with Stevenson, as their son tells me, elers are exacting of the places from and no doubt R. L. S. borrowed their which they expect esthetic inspiration ; name for his particular use. the merest lack of "modern convenien- " 'Said Lopaka—' make up your mind ces," good steak, or aromatic coffee, —for I have an idea of my own to get seems to strike them dumb and paralize a schooner and go trading through the appreciation. islands.' It is not so with really great and sin- `That is not my idea,' said Keawe ; cere men. It was never so with John `but to have a beautiful house and gar- Muir who could get along without den on the Kona coast where I was born, 82 THE MID -PACIFIC
the sun shining in the windows, pictures and see the W. G. Hall going by once a on the walls, and toys, and fine carpets week or so between Hookena and .the on he tables, for all the world like the hills of Pele, or the schooners plying up house I was in this day, only a story the coast for wood and awa and bananas. higher and with balconies all about like "One day followed another, and Ke- the king's palace ; and to live there with- awe dwelt there in perpetual joy. He out care and make merry with my had his place on the back porch ; it was friends and relatives—' there he ate and lived, and read stories "Now the house stood on the moun- in the Honolulu papers ; but when any tain-side, visible to ships. Above, the one came by they would go in and view forest ran up into the clouds of rain ; the chambers and the pictures. below, the black lava fell in cliffs, where "And the fame of the house went the kings of old lay buried. A garden far and wide ; it was called Ka Hale Nui bloomed about that house with every hue —the Great House—in all Kona ; and of flowers ; and there was an orchard of sometimes the Bright House, for Keawe papaia on the one hand and an orchard kept a Chinaman who was all day fur- of herdprint on the other, and right in bishing; and the glass, the gilt, and the front, toward the sea, a ship's mast had fine stuffs, and the pictures, shone as been rigged up and bore a flag. As for bright as the morning. the house, it was three stories high, with "So time went by, until one day Ke- great chambers and broad balconies on awe went upon a visit as far as Kailua each. The windows were of glass, so to certain of his friends. excellent that it was as clear as water "A little beyond Honaunau, looking far and as bright as day. All manner of ahead, he was aware of a woman bath- furniture adorned the chambers. Pic- ing in the edge of the sea; and she seem- tures hung upon the wall in golden ed a well-grown girl, but he thought no frames—pictures of ships, and men fight- more of it. Then he saw her white shirt ing, and of the most beautiful women, flutter as she put it on, and then her red and of singular places ; nowhere in the holoku ; and by the time he came abreast world are there pictures of so bright a of her she was done with her toilet, and color as those Keawe found hanging in had come up from the sea, and stood by his house. the track-side in her red holoku, and she As for the knickknacks they were ex- was all freshened with her bath, and her traordinarily fine; chiming clocks and eyes shone and were kind. musical boxes, little men with nodding "I am Kokua, daughter of Kiano," heads, books filled with pictures, wea- said the girl. "I was educated in a pons of price from all quarters of the school in Honolulu. I am no common world, and the most elegant puzzles to girl." entertain the leisure of a solitary man. Lopaka, Kiano and Kokua are local And as no one would care to live in names, the last that of a charming girl such chambers, only to walk through and who lived in view of Nahinu's house, view them, the balconies were made so up on the Kalahiki bluff where the palms broad that a whole town might have liv- are. ed upon them in delight ; and Keawe A few years ago I attended her in her knew not which to prefer, whether the last illness. back porch, where you get the land Since Stevenson has told us about the breeze, and looked upon the orchards and Kona house, let us see what Jack Lon- flowers, or the front balcony, where you don has to say about the Kona climate could drink the wind of the sea, and in his "House of Pride": look down steep walls of the mountain "You cannot escape liking the clim- THE MID -PACIFIC 83 ate," Cudworth said in reply to my pane- darkening its surface, with here and gyric on the Kona coast. there and everywhere long lanes of calm, "I was a young fellow, just out of shifting, changing, drifting, according to college, when I came here eighteen years the capricious kisses of the breeze. And ago. I never went back, except, of each evening I had watched the sea course, to visit. And I warn you, if you breath die away to heavenly calm, and have some spot dear to you on earth, not heard the land breath softly make its way to linger here too long, else you will find up through the coffee trees and monkey- this dearer. pods. "We had finished dinner, which had "It is a land of perpetual calm," I said. been served on the big Agnai, the one "Far abok towered the huge bulks of with the northerly exposure, though ex- Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, seeming to posure is indeed a misnomer in so delect- blot out half the starry sky. Two miles able a climate. I looked through a screen and a half above our heads they reared of banana and lehua trees, and down their own heads, white with snow that across the guava shrub to the quiet sea the tropic sun had failed to melt. one thousand feet beneath. "You see, the land radiates its heat "For a week, ever since I had landed quicker than the sea, and so, at night, the from the tiny coasting steamer, I had land breathes over the sea. In the day been stopping with Cudworth, and dur- the land becomes warmer than the sea, ing that time no wind had ruffled that and the sea breathes over the land. Lis- unvexed sea. True, there had been ten ! Here comes the land-breath now, breezes, but they were the gentlest ze- the mountain wind. phyrs that ever blew through summer "I could hear it coming, rustling soft- isles. ly through the coffee trees, stirring the "They were not winds ; they were monkey-pods, and sighing through the sighs—long, balmy sighs of a world at sugar cane. rest. "On the lanai the hush still reigned. "A lotus land," I said. Then it came, the first feel of the moun- "Where each day is like every day, tain wind, faintly balmy, fragrant and and every day is a paradise of days," he spicy, and cool, deliciously cool, a silken answered. "Nothing ever happens. It coolness, a wine-like coolness—cool as is not too hot. It is not too cold. It is only the mountain wind of Kona can be always just right. Have you noticed how cool. the land and the sea breeze breathe turn "Do you wonder that I lost my heart and turn about? to Kona eighteen years ago?" he de "Indeed I had noticed that delicious, manded. "I could never leave it now. rhythmic breathing. Each morning I had I think I should die. It would be terri- watched the sea breeze begin at the shore ble." and slowly extend seaward as it blew Rpbert Louis also learned to love the mildest, softest whiff of ozone to the Kona, and here, cut off from the rest land. of the world, he lived, received inspira- "It played over the sea, just faintly tion and worked. 84 THE MID-PACIFIC
In the Philippine Islands there are wonderful avenues of the coconut palm, which, besides provid- ing great scenic driveways, give a handsome profit from the sale of the dried coconut meat— or copra of the tropics. The historic Bridge of Spain.
Manila and Its Environs As seen by men who must know every inch of the ground.
By CAPTAINS GEORGE SEAVER and MARK SCOTT
HERE are a number of pretty auto in a couple of hours, and by team spots in close connection with Ma- in three hours. T nila which can be visited within a One of the most pleasant rides about few hours. the city is through the beautiful district One of these is Fort McKinley, said of Singalong, past the Government labor- to be the largest post of the United States atory, the new hospital and to Passay and Army, which is situated seven miles from Paranaque. Here, in Singalong, one can Manila. It extends along the Pasig get some idea of the beautiful flowers that River for a number of miles, and occu- are grown in the Philippines, and also pies a most commanding site. From the some idea of the ordinary ways of living high ground situated within the enclosure of the native people ,in the provinces. The can be seen the harbor, the city, and the read is kept in good condition by the city broad Laguna de Bay. The roads through cfficials, and is one of the favorite driving the great military reservation are broad places of the city. and well kept, and wind through some The Singalong Road at last passes pitcuresque spots. The trip out and through the town of Pasay, and the Pasay back to Fort McKinley can be made by Road is taken. This is a well kept boule-
85 86 THE MID -PACIFIC yard, and continues around the bay shore through the islands to give the Filipinos to Cavite. Out some distance on this the benefit of improved methods of carry- road the Zapote Bridge is reached, and ing on agriculture) ; to Calle Wright; here one of the stiffest engagements of the down Calle Wright to the buildings of insurrection was fought out. The insur- the new General Hospital and Philippine rectos put up a good fight, and it took Medical School; the Government Labor- the combined forces of the army and atory (a visit to which would prove very navy to dislodge them. Returning by interesting to those interested in the medi- Malate, old Fort San Antonio Abad is cal and mining developments and experi- passed, and it was this place that the guns ments since American occupation) ; down of Dewey shelled on the historic 13th Calle Herran to Calle San Marcelino, to August, 1898, which compelled the sur- the Paco fire station and the Paco Ceme- render of Manila by the Spaniards. The tery. (This cemetery was build in 1810; Pasay Road winds for the most part along it contains niches for 1,782 bodies. For- the bay shore and the return by Malate merly a fee was charged for the use of and Calle Real brings one through a very these niches, and when one's family failed pretty residence district. to pay, the bones were thrown into a One can get a fair idea of Manila "deposito" in the back part of the ceme• itself by leaving the Government docks tery. The bones are now covered up.) to the Malecon Drive, passing the Down Calle Nozaleda, passing Calle Legaspi and Urdnaeta Monument; (this Isaac real (on which street are situated monument was found by the Ameri- the Episcopal Cathedral and the Colum- cans on the arrival here in 1898. bia Club), the Methodist Church, Carni- It was placed in position by. them in val site, and the residence of military offi- 1901. Legaspi was the Spanish general cers; then passing the old Real Gate, in command of the troops which captured built in 1780, where the new aquarium Manila from the natives May 19, 1570. is being built and where specimens of nu- Urdaneta was an Augustinian friar, who merous and beautiful fishes of the P. I. accompanied Legaspi on this voyage to the are housed ; through the new Palacio en- Philippines) ; to the Luneta; the New trance; passing Cuartel de Espana (now Hotel, the Army and Navy and Elks' occupied by American troops) ; the. Santa clubs, Wallace Field (Carnival site) ; Potenciana Building; the San Augustin University Club; passing up Calle Real, Convent and Church (this is the oldest Ermita (the Observatory of Manila can church in the Philippine Islands, having be seen as you pass Calle Padre Faura), been built in 1591) ; up Calle Real to passing Military Plaza and the command- Calle Arzobispo, passing the Jesuit Col- ing general's residence; to the Malate lege, Museum and Church (the interior Church and the monument of Isabella decorations of the church of St. Ignatius the Second, who was one time queen of are most beautiful, being carved of native Spain ; out Calle Real to Washington hardwoods), to Calle Postigo. Park to Fort San Antonio de Abad, near Down Postigo, passing the courthouse, which the American soldiers landed in an old foundation (This foundation is an 1898, and after taking this fort from the example of how things were conducted Spanish troops, marched into Manila; to in Spanish times. Money was appropri- Calle Vito Cruz, to Singalong. ated and supposed to have been spent 'o Via San Andres, passing the Agricultu- build a government building on this site, ral Experiment Station (this is one of but nothing further was done after start- the many experiment farms scattered ing the foundation) ; to Plaza Wm. Mc- THE MID-PACIFIC 87
The Legaspi Monument on the Luneta.
Kinley and the statue of Carlos the worthy of notice; the beautiful marble Fourth (the Catholic Cathedral fronts on bases, altar steps, altar railings of worked this plaza) ; also the Ayuntamiento (this brass, and the sacristy) ; down Calle So- contains the offices of the Philippine Gov- lano, passing the San Francisco Convent ernment, formerly occupied by the Spanish and Church. Leave Walled City via Vic- Governor-General) ; to Fort Santiago toria, passing the . Manila High School (built in 1590, and has been the scene and out through one of the new gates. of many stirring events. This was the To the City Hall, Taft Ave., Normal fort taken by the British in 1762 when School, Government Printing Plant (all they captured Manila. Here it was that erected since American occupation). Mili- General Merritt received the surrender tary Hospital; to the famous Botanical of Manila on the 13th of August, 1898) ; Gardens and Zoo of the city of Manila. to Calle Aduana, passing the Intendencia (Here are plants of every known variety Building (now used by the Bureau of found in the Philipppines. The Zoo is Audits and the Treasury of the Philippine small but interesting) ; to the Estado Islands) ; to the Santo Domingo Church Mayor (military offices, Department of and Convent (a statel3 Gothic structure. Luzon) ; Cuartel Infanteria (formerly The doors of this chi rch are especially used by the Spanish infantry as barracks, 88 THE MID-PACIFIC now occupied by the U. S. Signal Corps. trict and various government buildings, The wireless station conducted by the the Anda Monument, built in honor of same body) ; the Government Ice Plant Anda, that Spanish general who refused (a modern and up-to-date factory for to surrender to the British in 1762-1763 making ice and distilling water) ; the when they captured Manila — and the Postoffice; crossing the Bridge of Spain Magallanes Monument, which was built (the original built on pontoons, rebulit by in honor of the great explorer, Ferdinand Juan Nino de Tabora in 1631. Two cen- Magellan, who discovered the Philippines ter spans were destroyed by an earthquake in 1521. Most interesting of all things in 1824 and for twelve years pontoons to be seen along the Pasig River trip were used again, when it was repaired. is the famous old walled city, built in the Has been widened twice since American fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The occupation) ; passing through the main work was started by Governor Gomez business section of the city—Plazas Mor- Perez Dasmarinas with money raised from aga and Cervantes, Calle Rosario to the a tax on playing cards, and on all goods Binodo Church, Plaza Callderon de Ba7.-- brought into Manila. Many additions co, to the Oriente Building (formerly were made to the walls from time to one of Manila's hotels, now used by the time. The walled city has been captured Government as office building). twice, first by the British in 1762, and Take Calle Reina Regente (passing the again by the Americans in 1898. Cuartel Meiste, formerly used by the Along the Pasig and its environs are also Spanish army as a garrison and later by the postoffice buildings, formerly the the Americans for the same purpose, now Cuartel Fortin, and occupied by Spanish used by the city government as a police troops; the Compania General de Taba- station and for schools), to Calle Azcar- cas de Filipinas cigar factory, owned and raga, passing theatres, Bilibid Prison, fa- operated by the Spanish, and the Germinal mous steel church of San Sebastian, to Cigar Factory, which is practically the Plaza Santa Ana, to Calle -Aix, to the - only cigarette factory in the islands owned Rotonda (here is a fountain built in honor entirely by Filipinos; Malacanan Palace, or Carriedo, who gave to the city of residence of the Governor-General of the Manila in the year 1743 its water sys- islands; San Juan River Bridge, where the tem )., down Calles Aviles, Uli Uli to the opening guns of the insurrectionists were Malacanan Palace, the residence of the fired against the American troops, Feb- Governor-General, that of the Chief Jus- ruary 4, 1899, and the old town of Guad- tice of the Supreme Court, the Honorable alupe, where the monastery of Guadalupe, Cayetano S. Arellano, 432 General So- built in 1601-1615, stands and where was lano; San Miguel Brewery (the only fought one of the stubbornest battles be- brewery in the Philippine Islands), the tween the Americans and insurgents, when San Miguel Church, General Solano, the the church was burned. Ayala Bridge, San Miguel Street, to Calle Echague, the Quinta Market (one of the For a truly Oriental flavor one must several new and modern markets built go to the Binondo district, Manila's since American occupation), to the Plaza Chinatown. Here the six-foot passages-- Santa Cruz and Church, Plaza Goiti, the the only streets—are crowded with Chi- central down town hotels and business nese who seem to feel perfectly at home district. in the shadow of the overhanging walls. The trip along the Pasig River takes Crossing back to the Pasig River district in, beside the lighthouse, the Farola dis- one may find the little town of San THE MID-PACIFIC 89
Pedro de Macati, and watch, beneath the There are many other sights and scenes glare of electric lights, a famous cock- in Manila that are well worth a visit. fight, sharing the excitment which he can't The tourist, if he stays long enough, will help feeling as the fight progresses, with Filipinos, Spaniards, Chinese, Japanese hear of these, or will, if he cares to ram- and the riff-raft of all nations. ble about without a guide, run into many A large pipe organ, built of bamboo, by of them himself, when the pleasure of dis- Pedro Diego Cera, may be seen at Las- covery will be greatly enhanced by the pinas. Even the pipes-1,714 of them-- are made of bamboo. belief that he is the orginal discoverer.
Part of the New City. 90 THE MID-PACIFIC •
The dboriginal.
Through Central Australia on Camel Back From the notebook of the man who made the trip.
By JAMES FLYNN.
HE sun is bright, the air is freshen it a fortnight ago, and the dark beautifully clear, and light green clumps stand out on ground of red T clouds break up what would sand which stretches for miles in the long otherwise be a monotony of per- valleys between very low hills. These fect blue. The spinifex had rain to hills seem to be waves of drift sand
91 92 THE MID-PACIFIC
merely, but here and there naked rocks starts up, takes in the situation, and yelps seem to indicate that the ridges are really in a tone of great authority. The calves outcrops of stone lightly dusted over. make an ungainly sprint for an instant Desert oaks are looking their best, and only, and relapse into stateliness. throw deep shade where several are These are decadent times, in which grouped together, but the breeze which authority is played out. Time was, some murmurs in a delightfully lazy fashion three weeks ago, when the first look or through their needle-like "leaves" is cool sound sufficed, and Pup was a power in- today, so shadows are needed only for deed as he looked rearwards from his purposes of the picturesque. lurching throne. Alas, .through not be- Rising out of the spinifex clumps are ing content to keep his throne during hot long stalks which carry ears not unlike hours of the day Pup got sore feet on wheat. If the plants grew closer these the burning sand, was condemned in would look like a crop, but the stray cat- mercy to rest at home during one trip, tle could not eat the nourishing ears with and the calves had time to think out the any degree of comfort, for spinifex essential difference between a snapping spines are tough and very sharply point- dog at heel and a yelping dog on moth- ed. Between the groups of oaks this er's back. How many representatives of breeze is too lazy even to murmur, and authority have suffered from sore feet deepest silence reigns. No birds are or something ! near, for water is far away. But we Perhaps there was a sound of offended have brought our music with us—a reg- dignity in that last yelp, for Texas rouses ular swish in the canteens, which keeps from his book, twists round, and regards harmony with the muffled drum, for the his companion—the human one. "How're camel is a master bandsman, drumming you doing?" he calls, opening the after- with ugly feet on the surface of Austra- noon's conversation. "Great." The com- lia. panion consults his watch. It is five min- "Texas" is in the lead. He is bowed utes past five—and we started at one ! low, lost in a book. His camel knows What a wonderful place is Central the track, and plods steadily on unguid- Australia, called "finest pastoral land on ed. The second camel, piled high with earth" by one and "desert" by another. His Majesty's mails, is attached by a line I would rather let some one else speak from its nosepeg to the leader's tail. The for utterance is certain to make trouble. third, similarly attracted to the second, What a pity one could not always lurch is loaded with packbags, canteens, gen- along in silence on top of a patient camel, eral cargo, and coiled on top of the with a good book, a full water bag and whole is "Pup." The fourth camel is no critics. Here, however, is a doctrine loaded with quartpot, waterbag, swag, to which many have agreed ; Central blankets, and, crowning all in an attitude Australia is the core of a big whole hardly coiled or anything exactly ortho- which must be bored through with a rail- dox, is the scribe. He is not reading. way. The line at present runs round by The present is too good to be wasted that Melbourne and Adelaide to Oodnadatta. way. A little more than 1000 miles will con- Now and again the pack camels give nect that distant place with Pine Creek low moans and look back awkwardly, which is already joined to Darwin. noselines notwithstanding, for they are Leaving Oodnadatta the way lies due anxious mothers, and cannot hear the north. Macumba Station, 30 miles out, lanky calves which follow in stately del- is away from the track. One must travel iberation away in the rear. Pup then 80 miles to Dalhousie, or 90 miles to THE MID- PACIFIC 93
Hamilton Bore on the alternative track, border of northern Territory. Here you before coming to a habitation. All along find telegraph station, again creek and the country is more or less of the gibber above with pumping station. variety, and there are patches which Horseshoe Bend boasts a hotel- look terribly bare to southern eyes. At cattle station. Here the Finke River, intervals creeks are met with, creeks of mostly just clay sand makes a sweep, dry sand. The Alberga is a quarter of hence the name. a mile wide, with stunted gums grow- Just on the brow of a rise only about ing all over the bed. The Macumba is fifty yards from where you look down lined with bigger trees, though no per- over the river and hotel, there was once manent surface water is found near the a sad tragedy. A foot traveler had reach- road. Travelers are well enough cater- ed this point in extremity through weari- ed for, however, "Wire Creek Bore" is ness and thirst. Possibly he had been only a little over 20 miles from Oodna- careless in not providing himself with datta. Then at 50 miles you come to enough water for the stage, for it is cer- "Ten Mile Bore." (This bore is ten tainly not a severe one for these parts ; miles away from somewhere necessarily ; possibly he was overtaken by a sudden we don't know where, but it doesn't mat- attack of illness, to which any man is ter, the water is good). Here a strong liable travelling in hot weather ; at any flow runs from the pipe into an old creek rate, here, almost in sight and sound of bed where it makes a narrow waterhole the house, not half a mile away, weak- a couple of miles or more in length. ness triumphed over reason. The poor Reeds grow thickly at the edge, fish fellow tramped round and round in a splash about toward evening, waterfowl small circle, making a distinct track, un- —and mosquitoes—come and go. til at last he sank down to die alone. Following the Dalhousie branch track He was found a day or two afterwards one crosses a sand belt of country for a by the hotel folk, and buried where he dozen miles, sometimes crossing "clay- fell. pans," hard, level, wonderfully smooth At Horseshoe Bend is a camp of places which the wind sweeps clean. blacks, where sometimes a hundred or Here fine patches of mulga grow in more may be found. Some work on the places, and grass is abundant in good station, others are engaged by passing seasons. Further on, more gibber coun- drovers, and thus earn the wherewithal try is met, looking bare indeed after three to be gentlemen of leisure for the suc- dry seansons. Dalhousie springs are in ceeding spell. The condition of these the midst of this country. The springs blacks is not what one would like to see, are of considerable size and very numer- but one must not fly to hasty conclusion ous. One authority assured us that the about causes and remedies. Among the springs are bottomless. The next place white residents there is a general feeling on the road is "the Federal." Pipes are of kindliness towards the natives, and laid all over the grounds, which include the distribution of clothes, rations, and a flower garden, fruit trees and tennis tobacco runs into much money, which lawn. The tank stand is not visible to can at times ill be spared. One has not the eye, being covered with a mass of only to "do for" blacks who are in one's "Poor Man's Bean ;" and underneath is service ; their friends and relatives, old the kitchen in the coolest place. and young, come also and camp along At Blood Creek, 7 miles away, is a side ; welcome or unwelcome, these share store—that's all. Twenty miles farther in everything, for socialism is not a mere on is Charlotte waters, just across the theory amongst these original inhabit- 94 THE MID-PACIFIC ants of Australia. Not even the famous In the hundred miles from Horseshoe two Angora goats would be spared here. Bend to Alice Springs we passed (in Thus partly to ensure the workers get- actual sight of) a police station, where a ting enough to eat themselves, and part- young trooper is to be found sometimes, ly out of genuine pity, the whites deal though, as a rule, he is away anything out rations in many cases far more lav- up t oa hundred miles or more on patrol. ishly than mere justice demands. All Alice Springs has some surface water, this does not alter the fact that things however : a valuable pool alongside are not as they should be, and the kind- which the telegraph station is built ; but ness is at the best of that quality in which with this exception, the Todd River is domestic animals share. The residents generally dry. It is a bed of sand lined cannot do more, however. They are there by gums. Sometimes a great flood will to look after their own interests, and come down out of the hills above, yet sometimes find all they can do to strug- soon it all passes. But water is near, gle against adverse circumstances of nevertheless. Near the blacks' camp, you drought and other handicaps. State and may see a lubra very busily engaged in Church—or, is it Church and State ?— obtaining a domestic supply. She has are responsible, and whatever improve- dug a hole waist deep in the sand, and ments may be necessary must be under- standing therein scoops up the water with taken by them. To the honor of the a jam tin from the neighborhood of her whites, too, I can add this. I believe the feet, thus gradually filling a bucket of church will not carry conviction among which she is the proud owner. the white residents of Central Australia, So wells are plentiful in the township. either thoughtful or careless, until it does The water raises and falls according to something for the blacks, especially for season ; sometimes it will recede 40 feet the half-caste. But we cannot enter in- down, but generally may be obtained as to this difficult problem here. shallow as 20 feet. It is of very satis- At Horseshoe Bend the coach stops, factory quality, and so is the soil around. and mails are carried beyond by camels I tasted fine dates fresh from the palms, —one lot north to Alice Springs and but the superior kind were not yet ripe. Arltunga, the other norwest along the The superior ones must be very good. Finke River to Herrmansburg. It was One of the storekeepers had navel beyond here that Texas and I entered oranges growing luxuriantly, though the spinifex country. Some miles on we still young and small trees. Their fruit passed between two strong posts. What was also unripe, but some time after my an excellent friend is habit ! Travelers return to Melbourne I saw samples of still go through the gateway, though that same crop on exhibition in Collins gates and fence alike have long disap- Street. Anyone who happened to see peared. Forty years ago this was the them will agree as to their fine quality. entrance into the huge territory of a Enthusiasts wax eloquent about the great pastoral company. Owing to diffi- climate. "Finest in the world !" We culties of intermittent droughts and con- have heard this confident remark about stant isolation from railways the com- so many places that we are tempted to pany has gone where the fence since fol- think the world remarkably good all lowed—and the man who erected the over, but it must be admitted that many fence now owns this station among oth- of the admirers of Alice Springs have ers. We passed on slowly, for pack been travelers of considerable experi- camels will only travel about four miles ence, not parish pump orators. an hour. We would prefer to, have Macdonnell THE MID-PACIFIC 95
Ranges many times as high, but as that great cleavage from top to base of the is out of the question at this late date, range where a creek domes through. we must make the most of them as they Simpson's Gap, sixteen miles west, is one are, somewhere about the same height of the most interesting. as Blue Mountains, N. S. W. They rise, Seventy miles east gold is found. however, out of a high tableland, and There Arltunga has had its rise and de- thus do not tower above the surround- cline. The battery has closed down now, ing country as the coastal ranges do. and very few miners are left. The mor- Such as they are they are very bold in tality among the miners has been rather outline. They run in parallel ridges severe owing to the awkward nature of about 150 miles east and west ; Alice the country and crude methods of min- Springs is in the very heart of them. ing. What the ultimate worth of these How sharply they rise out of the plain fields is must be left to the future to de- in places may be gathered from the fact cide, but with a railway over 350 miles that near Heavetree Gap, where you en- away by shortest route, consequent high ter the enclosed plain between the sec- freight and fare, and loss of time in trav- ond and third ridges, the police have eling, it is not likely that much thorough erected two parallel fences several miles testing will be done in the near future. apart from the first to the second ridges, And yet at the present moment repre- and thus have formed a complete pad- sentatives of a Sydney company are dock. The gaps in these ranges are pecu- working hard developing a mica field 50 liar. Every few miles you find one, a miles beyond Arltunga!
The "ship of the desert" in Australia. EDITORIAL COMMENT
Honolulu and the Pan-Pacific Exposition, 1 9 1 7- 1 9 1 8 AWAII is at the Cross-Roads of the Pacific. It is the natural and logical H center, not only for a Pan-Pacific Exposition, but here should be located the one great free port of the Pacific. Honolulu should become the warehouse of raw material from every part of the Great Ocean, from whence it might be again re- distributed to the world. From Hawaii should issue the great propaganda of Pacific progress; here should be gathered the nucleus of a permanent Commercial Museum of Pacific industry. A Pan-Pacific Exposition held at the Cross-Roads of the Pacific might well serve to bring together and consolidate the efforts to establish a permanent but movable exhibit of the industries and attractions of the lands and islands in and about that greatest theatre of commerce — the Pacific Ocean. More than two-thirds of the world's population live and progress in the lands that border on the Pacific, and at the very Cross-Roads of the traffic among these races and peoples is Hawaii, and here every nationality of the Pacific is at home. The Japanese of the Mid-Pacific can easily afford to erect a permanent exhi- bition building which will be a monument to the prosperity of their people in Hawaii, and to this they can invite their countrymen in Japan to send, space free, exhibits that will make all the people of the Great Ocean realize the progress that New Japan is making. The same statement holds true of the Chinese in Hawaii. The Filipinos at these Cross-Roads Islands are numbered by the tens of thousands, s are the Koreans, while the Rusian from Siberia form quite a colony, eager to do its share in the Pan-Pacific propaganda. Australia and New Zealand are well represented by influential citizens, while the sons of Canada, Oregon, and Cali- fornia are among the makers of modern Hawaii, one of the most prosperous and advanced communities in the world. Honolulu is in direct touch by steamship service with the Pacific South Ameri- cm Coast, while there is a steady stream of steamship arrivals from Panama bound for almost every port of the Pacific and the world beyond. While other lands are unfortunately tearing each others' commerce to pieces, let us of the Pacific get to gether and help each other to better things and to grander achievements, taking a just pride in the growth of the commerce of the Pacific. From a Pan-Pacific beginning in Hawaii we may yet teach the whole world the lesson that the fruits of co-operation are sweeter far than those that grow in the garden of competition. It is for us to forward a movement that will tend to lift all to higher things, to strive together to attain a loftier standard in the material life for all the peoples of the Pocific, so that each and all will benefit, no matter what their race, nationality or country. Let us begin to study each others' attractions and advantages. Let us begin scientifically and earnestly at a Pan-Pacific Exposition and convention of PaCific peoples to help each other, rather than to crush one anothers' efforts. Let us aid each other to become efficient that all may benefit. Let us study the art of working together, and to this end Hawaii invites her sisters of the Pacific to a co-operative Pan-Pacific Exposition and Congress of Pacific people, to be held in Honolulu dur- ing the years 1917-1918. ADVERTISING SECTION Among the Hawaiian Islands
Map by courtesy of the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company.
466., 'Is; %Aro, KAUAI ARAI& HAWAIIAN I S LAND S Ocak /15,04=Zorpoo ,14,7 Camaka'Ar fie Warr% hompeni•ig awswAlais By h' E Newf.*, ----Aped, /503. NIIHAU OAHU .Series is Afdes Amr • • r .fRocale MOLOKAI Alformor 1/
N NORTH v AM ERICA
The Island of Hawaii is about the size of the State of Connecticut; the area of all the islands is about two-thirds that of Belgium. STEAMSHIP SERVICE. THE KAUAI CANYONS From Honolulu, on the Island of Oahu, At 5:15 P. M. every Tuesday there is to and from the Island of Maui, there is a large boat (S. S. "Kinau") leaving almost daily service, either by way of Honolulu for Kauai ports, a night's ride, Kahului on the lee side of Maui, or on the and on the return leaving Waimea, Kauai, windward side, at Lahaina, there being at 10 A. M. Saturdays, affording oppor- splendid auto services between the two. tunity for a visit to the famous canyons Twice a week there are sailings from of Kauai and the Barking Sands. Fare Honolulu for the Big Island of Hawaii. each way $6. The "W. G. Hall," a Communication between the islands of smaller steamer, leaves Honolulu every Hawaii is maintained by the splendid and Thursday at 5 P. M. Returning leaves frequent steamers of the Inter-Island Nawiliwili, Kauai, every Tuesday at Steam Navigation Co. Ltd. 5 P. M. THE HALEAKALA TRIP. THE VOLCANO OF KILAUEA. The flagship of the Inter-Island fleet Mondays and Fridays there is a boat leaves Honolulu every Wednesday and leaving Honolulu for Kahului, Maui, at Saturday for Hilo on the Island of Hawaii, 5 :00 in the afternoon—fare $6 each way, from whence a visit to Kilauea is made, a pleasant night's ride, and from Kahului and from whence a tour of the largest of on Wednesday and Saturday afternoons the Hawaiian Islands may be begun. Fare the same steamer (S. S. "Claudine") sails to Hilo, each way, $12.50; by rail and for Honolulu . This is the most conven- auto to volcano, about $5.00 return ; rates ient boat for trips to Haleakala and the at Volcano House, about $6 a day. famous Koolau Ditch Trail. The Mon- The main offices of the Inter-Island day boat from Honolulu touches at many Steam Navigation Co., Ltd., are on Queen Maui ports. Street, Honolulu ; phone No. 4941. Honolulu from the Trolley Car I
Surfriding as Seen From the Cars of the Rapid Transit Company. You may take the electric tram as you beautiful mountain valleys behind Hono- step off of the steamer in Honolulu, and lulu, or you may transfer to Kaimuki for five cents ride for hours—if you wish on the heights behind Diamond Head, to take transfers—to almost every part which is now a great fortress ; in tact, of this wonderously beautiful city and its the entire day may be spent with profit suburbs. on the car lines. At Waikiki often may There appeared in the Mid-Pacific be seen from the cars men and boys dis- Magazine for January, 1915, an article porting themselves on their surfboards, telling of a hundred sights to be seen as they come in standing before the from the street cars. waves on these little bits of wood. At one end of the King street car line The cars in Honolulu are all open, for is Fort Shafter, on a commanding hill, the temperature never goes below 68 from which may be seen the cane lands and degrees, nor does it rise above 85 de- rice fields, stretching to Pearl Harbor in grees, and there is always a gentle trade the distance. Before reaching Fort Shafter wind stirring. is the Bishop Museum, having the most re- When Honolulu was ready for her markable Polynesian collection in the world. electric tram system, the Honolulu Rapid Transit & Land Co. completed the most At the other end of the line is Kapiolani perfect system of its kind in the world, Park, a beautiful tropical garden, in which and it is always a delight to ride smooth- is located the famous aquarium of Hawai- ly over its lines. ian fishes, rivaled only by the aquarium in It is but twenty minutes by car to Naples. Waikiki beach and but five minutes Transfers are given to branch lines longer, by the same car, to the wonderful penetrating several of the wonderfully aquarium in Kapiolani Park.
The Island of Oahu
TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN. The Matson Steam Navigation Co., maintaining the premier ferry service be- tween Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kishen Kaisha, maintaining pa- ,couvcie latial ocean greyhound service between San cArr Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, 4b)' PAC/f/(" have their Hawaiian agencies with Castle & YOKOHAMA Cooke, Ltd. SAP HAWAIIAN /;";$ ,sC,5 This, one of the oldest firms in Hono- -- ISLANDS q' ONG.YONG 996/ m lulu, occupies a spacious building at the
/, PH/LIPP/NE , — corner of Fort and Merchant streets, Hono- A lulu. The ground floor is used as local passenger and freight offices of the Toyo DEANN , Kisen Kaisha and of the Matson Steam Navigation Company. The adjoining Of- fices are used by the firm for their busi- ness as sugar factors and insurance agents. Phone 1251. / A SYONEr Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for many of the plantations throughout Ha- AcecliOrt '17 elk waii, and here may be secured much varied aaiian Islands information. Here also the tourist may se- cure in the folder racks, booklets and pam- 21 phlets descriptive of almost every part of the great ocean. Maps by courtesy of Castle F.zi Cooke, Ltd.
Area ~i 511,V, Nil?5 598 Mir OLUtil NOWAL Lsot,s sckti or MILES: 15 lqnsi 2 5 Kies
tYezif trustmjitt(g4,9.830 FE
0 1558 Arli) COPYVONTED BY PopolOon over 60,000 People ; ifilt NILL1.3 T. POPE. NNW, frs,cs ealdorms 2100 t Distance from Jopen 3,4o0 Wei
NA D,5[anct from liotra444 )9MIle5 Government Road around Island first-dos Railractol Stistem
Sags Crop for 1907. TOL\ _ •
Ati£Ort EA/
city of HONOLULU
The Island of Oahu is more than half the size of Rhode Island, although it is one of the smallest of the Hawaiian Group.
Map by courtesy of Alexander & Baldwin.
HAWAII I A S is F.1.!,5 .015 ... 90 , 74 t 13.805 P;.p,,,,IlLn over 4.7;sx, D4 In... !ram UFir Pr. 1.3-4r, ,,to. 30 Y L,30f The Ln■Ier FIrw, Work.' T,env,r, &larcrc,-:"cr • . ■37.72.5
The Island of Hawaii is about twice the size of Delaware. On the island of Maui, on which Alex- to sail to or from Hawaii, and the exact ander & Baldwin are agents for the larg- movements of the large Inter-Island est single sugar plantation of Hawaii, is steamers. This truly American concern Haleakala, the largest and most wonder- has diversified interests in all of the isl- ful extinct crater in the world, as on ands, and is therefore interested in the Hawaii, Kilauea is earth's largest ac- development in every way of every part tive volcano. On the island of Kauai, of the Territory. where this firm also has its interests, The Hawaiian group is composed of there are canyons as varied in color and seven large and a number of small isl- variety of scene as any in Arizona, while ands. The largest island of the group- on Oahu, where the home office of Alex- Hawaii—occupies nearly as much land as ander & Baldwin is housed in the Stan- does the State of Connecticut, and boasts genwald building in Honolulu, there is an unbroken sugar-cane area more than the famous Pali or precipice which is a hundred miles long. It is the home of visited by every tourist, and is the pride the two highest island mountain peaks of the Hawaiians themselves. in the world. The going and coming of people in The Hawaiian Islands lie 2,100 miles Hawaii is regulated by the truly remark- southwest of San Francisco, and have able monthly calendar in red, white and a population of 200,000, the very living blue, issued by the firm of Alexander & of whom depends upon the growing of Baldwin, sugar factors and insurance sugar cane, the islands shipping over agents. This large calendar, it is safe 500,000 tons of raw sugar to America to say, hangs in every business office annually, thus creating and supporting the in the islands, and in many on the coast. two largest American steamship com- It shows each day just what steamer is panies. Map by courtesy of the Pacific Guano & Fertilizer Co.
fiONOLULtt NOP.11ALSCHOOL ` SLALE Ot M1lE 5
PRfPARED AND COPYRIC,N1tD WJLU5 T
AM-MA
MAUI a in te Square PVLile s,725 Length 48 Miles, Breadth 30 title :Highest Elevoiton 1003Z Fg. et •rgest Extinct Crater in theLvorto Jon over zb.000 rwe from Honolulu 7E frtiles Su5or Pluntotions of, For 150'T 104TIZTons
The Island of Maui with its sister island, Lanai, is about the size of the State of Rhode Island.
The soil of Hawaii is of a character that fertilizer. It gets sulphate of ammonia requires fertilization to a great extent. from England, nitrates from Chili, and When one speaks of the fertilizer business potash salts from Germany, while tons of of Hawaii, he speaks of the Pacific Guano sulphur are brought direct from Japan to and Fertilizer Co. The majority of the the works. It costs, ordinarily, fifty dollars sugar and pineapple plantations are sup- an acre to fertilize pineapple lands, unless it plied by this company. A very large con- is the fertilizer from the Pacific Guano and cern today, the Pacific Fertilizer and Guano Fertilizer Co. that is used, when the ex- Co. is the outgrowth of a small industry pense is cut in half. If you need fertilizer which followed the discovery of rich guano for your garden or your plantation, call up deposits on Laysan Island. These deposits Phone No. 1585, and the Pacific Fertilizer have been so depleted that the company now and Guano Co. will gladly advise you, mak- secures its supply from other Pacific islands, ing a chemical analysis of the soil, if neces- and at the same time it is a large importer sary, and mixing the fertilizer in accord of other articles used in the manufacture of with the demands of the soil. •
The Home Building in Honolulu of H. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., Plantation Agents, Wholesale Merchants and Agents the American-Hawaiian, and all the principal Atlantic S. S. Lines.
Where the Lighting and Cooking in the Honolulu Home is arranged for as well as the Power for Factories. Around the Pacific
American-Hawaiian S. S. Co. Steamers, plying between New York and via the Panama Canal and San Francisco. Approximate time in transit, 38 days.
TO SOUTH AUSTRALIA. Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on King William Street, Adelaide, and the From San Francisco, Vancouver and government has printed many illustrated from Honolulu there are two lines of fast books and pamphlets describing the scenic steamships to Sydney, Australia. and industrial resources of the state. A From Syney to Adelaide, South Aus- postal card or letter to the Intelligence and tralia, there is a direct line of railway on Tourist Bureau in Adelaide will secure the which concession fares are granted tourists books and information you may desire. arriving from overseas, and no visitor to the Australian Commonwealth can afford ON TO JAPAN. to neglect visiting the southern central state The Nippon Yusen Kaisha, or Japan of Australia; for South Australia is the Mail Steamship Co. with its fleet of 94 State of superb climate and unrivalled re- vessels, and tonnage of 450,000 maintains a sources. Adelaide, the 'Garden City of the service from Yokohama via Japanese, Chi- South,' is the capital, and there is a Govern- nese, Philippine and Australian ports to ment Intelligence and Tourist Bureau Sydney and Melbourne, as well as a where the tourist, investor, or settler is European service, fortnightly from Yoko- given accurate information, guaranteed by hama to London and Antwerp, and from the government, and free to all. From Yokohama (starting at Hongkong) to Vic- Adelaide this Bureau conducts rail, river toria, B. C., and Seattle, Wash. Be- and motor excursions to almost every part sides these main services the Nippon Yu- of the state. Tourists are sent or conducted sen Kaisha extends its coastal service to through the magnificent mountain and all of the principal ports in Japan, pastoral scenery of South Australia. The Korea and China, etc., thus making it government makes travel easy by a system the ideal shippers' service from Aus- of coupon tickets and facilities for caring tralia, America and Europe, as well as for the comfort of the tourist. Excursions the most convenient around the Pacific are arranged to the holiday resorts; indi- and around the world service for the viduals or parties are made familiar with tourist or merchant. There are branch the industrial resources, and the American offices of the Nippon Yusen Kaisha at as well as the Britisher is made welcome if all the principal ports of the world. The he cares to make South Australia his home. head office is at Tokyo, Japan, and its The South Australian Intelligence and telegraphic address Morioka, Tokyo. •
Wonderful New Zealand
Native New Zealanders at Rotorua.
Scenically New Zealand is the world's of the tourist, for whom she has also wonderland. There is no other place in built splendid roads and wonderful the world that offers such an aggrega- mountain tracks. New Zealand is tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The splendidly served by the Government West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are Railways, which sell the tourist for a in every way more magnificent and awe- very low rate a ticket that entitles him inspiring than are the fiords of Norway. to travel on any of the railways for from Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic one to two months. In the lifetime of panorama of unrivalled beauty from end a single man, (Sir James Mills of Dune- to end. Its hot springs and geysers in din, New Zealand,) a New Zealand the Rotorua district on the North Island steamship company has been built up have no equal anywhere. In this dis- that is today the fourth largest steam- trict the native Maoris still keep up ship company under the British flag, and their ancient dances or haka haka, and larger than any steamship company here may be seen the wonderfully carved owned in America with her 100,000,000 houses of the aboriginal New Zealand- million population, or in Japan with her ers. There are no more beautiful lakes 50,000,000 population. New Zealand is anywhere in the world than are the Cold a land of wonders, and may be reached Lakes of the South Island, nestling as from America by the Union Steamship they do among mountains that rise sheer Co. boats from Vancouver, San Fran- ten thousand feet. Among these moun- cisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steam- tains are some of the largest and most scenic glaciers in the world. In these ship Co. also transfers passengers from Southern Alps is Mt. Cook, more than Sydney. The Government Tourist twelve thousand feet high. On its Bureau has commodious offices in Auck- slopes the Government has built a hotel land and Wellington as well as the other to which there is a motor car service. larger cities of New Zealand. Direct in- New Zealand was the first country to formation and pamphlets may be secured perfect the government tourist bureau. by writing to the New Zealand Govern- She has built hotels and rest houses ment Tourist Bureau, Wellington, New throughout the Dominion for the benefit Zealand.
New South Wales
Circular Quay, Sydney.
Physical configuration and a wide The wonderful system of limestone range of climate give the State of New caverns at Jenolan is a marvelous fairy- South Wales its wonderful diversity of land of stalactitic and stalagmitic forma- scenery. its abundance of magnificent tions, which must forever remain the resorts by ocean, harbor, mountain, val- despair of the painter, the photographer ley, plain, lake, river and cave. It is this and the writer. The world has no more bewildering array of scenic attractions, marvelous or beautiful system of caves and the peculiar strangeness of the forms than these at Jenolan, which tourists of its animal and vegetable life, which from everywhere have marked as their make New South Wales one of the most own. The famous Jenolan series is sup- interesting countries in the world, and plemented and rivalled by the extensive one which an up-to-date. well-traveled systems at Wombeyan and Yarrangobil- tourist must see. ly, a little further away from Sydney. In the south, among the Australian The climate of the State ranges from Alps, lies the unique Kosciusko Range, the arctic snows of Mt. Kosciusko to the which contains the highest peak in the sub-tropical glow of the Northern Riv- Continent, and is said to be the oldest ers, and withal is one of the most equable land surface on the globe. The Hotel m the world. its eastern shore is washed by the crested rollers of the wide Pacific Kosciusko, a modern spa, replete with and stretches by meadow, tableland and every convenience, golf links and tennis mountain to the rich, dry plains beneath courts,—stands at an altitude of 6000 feet. In Summer, the mcuntaineer and the rim of the setting sun. trout fisherman stays here to enjoy the Westward of Sydney, the Blue Moun- majestic scenery at the summit, or fill his tains attain an altitude of 3000 feet at a bag with fish caught in a handy stream. distance of 60 miles. The scenery is of and in Winter the ski-runner, tobogganer rare magnificence. Through countless and ice-skater revel in the Alpine car- centuries, the rivers have carved stupen- nivals conducted on the glistening snow- dous gorges, comparable only to the fields. famous Colorado canyons. The eucalyp- The Government Tourist Bureau, a tus covered slopes give off health-giving splendidly equipped Institution at Challis odours, and graceful waterfalls. gaping House, Sydney, readily dispenses infor- valleys, fern-clad recesses and inspiring mation, maps, pamphlets and booklets, to panoramas impress themselves on the all inquirers in connection with the tour- memory of the mountain visitor. ist resorts of the State. •
For the Tourist and Visitor
The Alexander-Young Hotel (under same management as the Moana and Hawaiian.)
CRATER HOTEL, Volcano Hawaii, A. T. concern is constantly adding new features Short, Proprietor. See Wells Fargo Ex- and new stock. The business man will press Co., Paradise Tours, Inter-Island find his every need in the office is supplied and S• S. Co., Honolulu for special in- by the Hawaiian News Co. merely on a clusive excursion rates. call over the phone, and this is true also THE SWEET SHOP, on Hotel Street, op- of the fashionable society leader, whether posite the Alexander Young, is the her needs are for a bridge party, a dance, one reasonably priced tourist restaurant: or just plain stationery. The exhibit rooms Here there is a quartette of Hawaiian of the Hawaiian News Co. are interesting. singers and players, and here at every The von Hamm Young Co., Importers, hour may be enjoyed at very reasonable Machinery Merchants and leading auto- prices the delicacies of the season. mobile dealers, have their offices and store THE BLAISDELL. The newest down town in the Alexander Young Building, at the hotel, occupying a block on Fort Street. corner of King and Bishop Streets, and Splendid rooms from $1.00 a day and $20 their magnificent automobile salesroom and a month up. Phone 1267. garage just in the rear, facing on Alakea Honolulu is so healthy that people don't street. Here one may find almost any- usually die there, but when they do they thing. Phone No. 4901. phone in advance to Henry H. Williams, "Maile" Australian butter from the 1146 Fort street, phone number 1408, Metropolitan Meat Market on King and he arranges the after details. If you Street, stands at the head for flavor and are a tourist and wish to be interred in keeping quality, and is guaranteed. It is your own plot on the mainland, Williams here you also get the tender meats and will embalm you; or he will arrange all fresh vegetables of which an abundant details for interment in Honolulu. Don't supply is always on hand. Heilbron & leave the Paradise of the Pacific for any Louis, proprietors, have built up a won- other, but if you must, let your friends derful business until now the Metropolitan talk it over with Williams. Meat Market is the central and popular The largest of the very fashionable market place in Honolulu. Phone 3445. shops in the Alexander Young Building, Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street, occupying the very central portion, is that Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu. of the Hawaiian News Co. Here the Its auto wagons deliver each morning fresh ultra-fashionable stationery of the latest from the oven, the delicious baker's bread design is kept in stock. Every kind of and rolls consumed in Honolulu, while all paper, wholesale or retail, is supplied, as the grocery stores carry the Love Bakery well as printers' and binders' supplies. crisp fresh crackers and biscuits that come There are musical instruments of every from the oven daily. Love's Bakery has kind in stock, even to organs and pianos, the most complete and up to date machin- and the Angelus Player Piano and this ery and equipment in the territory. B. F. Ehlers & Co., the leading woman's store in Honolulu, on Fort Street, between King and Hotel Streets.
E. 0. Hall & Son, corner Fort and King Streets.
A part of the interior of H. F. Wichman & Co.,—jewelers, which occupies nearly half of the block between King and Fort Sts. The Power Factory, where the Lighting and Cooking in the Honolulu Home is arranged for.
ELECTRICITY IN HONOLULU. horsepower, with, another two hundred and fifty horsepower to the Federal Wireless In Honolulu electricity costs ten cents Station, fifteen miles distant, besides cur- per kilowatt, for the first two kilowatts per rent for lighting all private residences in month per lamp, and six cents thereafter. Honolulu, as well as for operating its own From the Hawaiian Electric Company extensive ice plant. A line is now being plant, power is furnished to the pineapple built to furnish light and power to the canneries (the largest canneries in the great army post at Schofield Barracks, world) to the extent of seven hundred twenty miles distant from Honolulu.
Entrance to Lewers & Cooks' large establishment. Lumber, hardware, etc. Honolulu's big department store, W. W. Dimon6 clz Co., on King St. Phone 4937.
Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King Kekaulike Streets is one of Honolulu's Streets, is the actual center of life and leading enterprises, doing a flourishing activity in Honolulu. Here at the inter- lumber and mill business. section of the tram lines, the shoppers, Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the business men, and tourists await their cars, chief port, and from Hilo excursions are chatting at the open soda fountain, that is made up to all the points of interest. The the feature of Chambers Drug Store. Here Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken up the tourist and stranger is advised as tc the matter of home promotion work and is the sights of the city, and supplied with developing the wonderful scenic surround- any perfumes, candies or drugs he may need during his stay. Chambers Drug ings of Hilo. In this line of work the Hilo Store is one of the institutions of Hono- Board of Trade has the hearty co-operation lulu. Phone No. 1291. of the Hilo Railway. This Railway has Mr. Chu Gem, Honolulu's most re- recently extended its rails thirty-two miles snected Chinese business man, is a director along the precipitous coasts of Lapauhoehoe of the Home Insurance Co., and head of and beyond. This thirty-two mile rail trip the firm of Quong Sam Kee Co., at the is one of the scenic trips of the world. The corner of King and Maunakea St., which Hilo Railway also extends in the opposite supplies the local dealers of the territory direction to the hot springs of Puna, and a with drugs and general merchandise. branch with the Auto Service takes the Whatever you do, do not fail to visit tourist from the steamer wharf to the edge the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on King of the ever active Kilauea. Street. Early morning is the best time for The leading music store in Hawaii is this, when all the multi-colored fish of on King and Fort Sts.—The Bergstrom Hawaiian waters are presented to view Music Co. No home is complete in Hono- and every nationality of the islands is on lulu without a ukulele, a piano and a Victor parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Anin is r talking machine. The Bergstrom Music leading spirit and founder of the Oahu Company, with its big store on Fort Street, Fish Market, which is a Chinese institu- will provide you with these—a Chickering,. tion of which the city is proud. a Weber, a Kroeger for your mansion, or a A monument to the pluck and energy of tiny upright Boudoir for your cottage; and Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the if you. are a transient it will rent you a City Mill Co. of which he is treasurer piano. The Bergstrom Music Company, and manager. This plant at Queen and phone 2331. •
LIGHTING THE HOUSE. BUILDING THE HOME. There are 4100 consumers of gas in The Pacific Engineering Co., with spac- Honolulu, and the price of gas in that ious offices in the Yokohama Specie Bank city, $1.00 to $1.50 a thousand feet, ac- Building, are engineers and constructors cording to amount consumed, is a lower of buildings of every kind, from the smallest price than that charged for gas by any private residence to the largest and most other American city having not more than imposing blocks. Being composed of some 4100 consumers. of the most prominent men in the islands, When the Honolulu Gas Company first it is not surprising that it has secured began business the charge for gas was large and important contracts, including $2.50 a thousand feet, but as more con- the construction of the new Y.M.C.A. sumers were secured the price was lower- The City's great furniture store, that or ed, and will be lowered considerably as J. Hopp & Co., occupies a large portion of the people of the city become educated to the Lewers & Cooke Block on King St. the fact that gas is the most economical Here the latest styles in home and office fuel for cooking, as well as for lighting, furniture arriving constantly from San that is to be had in the city of Honolulu. Francisco are displayed on several spacious The gas mains of Honolulu are con- floors. Phone No. 2111. stantly being extended to the outlying dis- tricts. The brightest and cheapest street With the wood that is used for building lighting in the city is that secured from in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen gas in connection with the latest inven- Street, Phone 2105, have for generations tions in incandescent hoods, these giant supplied the people of Honolulu and those hoods made incandescent by a small jet of on the other islands; also their buildings and paints. Their office is on Queen St., gas giving a marvelous light that seems as near the Inter-Island S. N. Co. Building, bright as day. The smaller hoods are and their lumber yards extend right back used in the office and in the home, greatly to the harbor front, where every kind of reducing the gas bills of consumers. hard and soft wood grown on the coast is The Honolulu Gas Co., Ltd., has its landed by the schooners that ply from spacious show rooms and offices at the Puget Sound. corner of Beretania and Alakea Streets, and here the public is invited to meet with Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., on Queen the staff of experts in gas lighting and Street, Phone 2295, prepare the crushed cooking devices. They know how to aid rock used in the construction of the mod- in saving on the gas bill to an extent that ern building in Hawaii. They also main- will induce all to use gas, both in the tain their own stables and drays. Draying kitchen and in the parlor. in Honolulu is an important business, and Every new gas consumer aids in lower- Hustace-Peck are the pioneers in this line, ing the price of gas to all. They gladly and keep drays of every size, sort and de- send men to give estimates for the use of scription for the use of those who require gas in the home. Write them or phone them. They also conduct a rock crusher 3424. and supply wood and coal.
■ i
The Banks of Honolulu
The First National Bank of Hawaii at the corner of 4 Fort and King streets Hono- lulu. This bank is the de- pository in Hawaii of the U. S. Government.
The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was established August 17, 1858, and has oc- cupied its premises on the corner of Mer- chant & Kaahumanu Streets, since 1877. The operations of this Bank began with the encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry of the islands, and the institution has ever been closely identi- fied with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M.Damon, Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cock- burn. On June 30, 1915 the deposits with this bank amounted to $7,555,975.03. Bank of Honolulu, Ltd., located on Fort street, is an old established financial in- stitution. It draws on the principal parts of the world, issues cable transfers, and transacts a general banking business. The entrance to the Bank of Hawaii, The best thing on ice in Honolulu is soda the central bank of Honolulu, with a water. The Consolidated Soda Water capital, surplus and undivided profits Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort Street, are the amounting to nearly a million and a half, largest in the Territory. Aerated waters or more than the total of any other bank cost from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. The in the Hawaiian Islands. It has its own Consolidated Co. are agents for Hires Root magnificent building at the busiest busi- Beer and put up a Kola Mint aerated water ness corner of Honolulu, Merchant and that is delicious, besides a score of other Fort streets; has a savings department and flavors. Phone 2171 for a case, or try a was organized in 1897. bottle at any store. Financial Hawaii
A MODERN TRUST COMPANY. injune of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated The Trent Trust Co., Ltd., organized doubling this capital. On June 30th, 1913, in 1907 with a paid-in capital of $50,000, the Capital of the Company was $200,- now has $140,000 in cash capital and earn- 000 ; Surplus $10,000, and Undivided ed surplus, and gross assets of $390,000. Profits $22,573.77. It conducts a trust The Mutual Building & Loan Society, or- company business in all its various lines ganized and managed by the same people, with offices in the Stangenwald Building, has assets in excess of $200,000. The Merchant St., adjoining Bank of Hawaii. splendid growth of these concerns has been The Mutual Telephone Co. works in due to careful and conservative manage- close accord with the Marconi Wireless, ment and to the unbounded confidence re- and controls the wireless service between posed in them by the people whom they the Hawaiian Islands, as well as the tele- serve. The Trust Company acts as Ex- phone service throughout Hawaii. For a ecutor and Trustee under Wills, Adminis- dollar and a half a night letter of twenty- trator and Manager of Estates, Fiduciary five words may be sent to any part of the Agent, and as Attorney and Agent for non- territory. Honolulu was the first city in residents and others needing such service. the world to install a house to house tele- Its offices are centers of activity in real phone system, and Hawaii the first country estate, rent, insurance and investment cir- to commercially install wireless telegraphy. cles. The Company is a member of the Next to the Marconi Wireless on Fort Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange. Street is the Office Supply Co., the home of the Remingtori Typewriter in Hawaii, The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd.. and the Globe-Wernicke filing and book the most recently incorporated Trust is cases. Every kind of office furniture is Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders kept in stock by the Office Supply Co. as are closely identified with the largest business interests in the Territory. Its well as a complete line of office stationery. directors and officers are men of ability. There is a repair shop for typewriters, and integrity and high standing in the com- every necessary article that the man of munity. The Company was incorporated business might need. Phone 3843.
The Henry Waterhouse Trust Company occupies the ground floor of the Campbell block on Fort St., and partly on Merchant St. This is the business center of the city; here stocks and bonds are exchanged, insurance and real estate handled. Here is the home of the Kaimuki Land Company, and safety vaults.
I •
• THE GARDEN AND PLAY Tasmania GROUND OF AUSTRALIA
1--
Lake Marion and Du Cane Mountains, Tasmania.
Tasmania is one of the finest tourist re- ital,—one of the most beautiful cities in the sorts in the southern hemisphere, but ten world—is the headquarters of the Tasman- hours' run from the Australian mainland. ian Government Tourist Department; and The large steamers plying between Vic- the Bureau will arrange for transport of the toria and New Zealand call at Hobart visitor to any part of the island. A shilling both ways, and there is a regular service trip to a local resort is not to small for the from Sydney to Hobart. Between Launce- Government Bureau to handle, neither is 4 ston and Melbourne the fastest turbine tour of the whole island too big. Travel steamer in Australia runs thrice weekly. coupons are issued including both fares and Tasmania is a land of rivers, lakes, and accommodation if desired. mountains, and it is a veritable tourists' In Hobart and in other Tasmanian cen- paradise. It is also a prolific orchard ters there are local Tourist Associations. country and has some of the finest fruit In Launceston the Northern Tasmania growing tracks in the world. The climate Tourist Association has splendid offices. is cooler than the rest of Australia. The Tasmanian Government has an up- The angling is one of the greatest at- to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 William tractions of the island. The lakes and rivers Street, next door to the New Zealand Gov- are nearly all stocked with imported trout, ernment office, where guidebooks, tickets, which grow to weights not reached by other and information can be produced. parts of Australia. The Tasmanian Gov- For detailed information regarding Tas- ernment issue a special illustrated handbook mania, either as to travel or settlement, dealing with angling. enquirers should write to Mr. E. T. Em- The Tasmanian Government deals di- mett, the Director of the Tasmanian Govt. rectly with the tourist. Hobart, the cap- Tourist Dept., Hobart, Tasmania. •
• • • • • Ulp.,•1MIP
•
The picturesque Oahu Railway. There are daily trains from Honoluln to the' beautiful Haleiwa Hotel, and to Leilehua. Also combined auto and rail trips around the island through the Wahiawa pineapple fields, with a stay at Haleiwa. $io covers all expenses of this two-day trip.
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PRINTED BY HONOLULU STAR.MULLETIN. MERCHANT •T.