SUMMER/WINTER 2011-2012 Società Delle Guide Di Gressoney Località Tache - 11020 Gressoney-La-Trinitè Ao Italia Tel

SUMMER/WINTER 2011-2012 Società delle Guide di Gressoney Località Tache - 11020 Gressoney-La-Trinitè Ao Italia Tel. e Fax 0125 36.62.80 - 349 43.20.563 [email protected] www.guidemonterosa.info

Thanks to : Regione Autonoma Valle d’Aosta Unione Valdostana Guide di Alta Montagna

Cover Photo Davide Camisasca

Photographs: Davide Camisasca Alessandro Comune Arnoldo Welf Bruno Welf

Graphic Design and Printing: Tipografia Valdostana, Aosta SOCIETY OF GRESSONEY GUIDES MONTE ROSA ALPINE GUIDES ALPINE GUIDES

GUIDE ALPINE Welf Arnoldo Fr. Edelboden - Gressoney-La-Trinité Tel. 0125 36.68.02 - 348 31.11.534 Busca Alessandro loc. Underwoald - Gressoney-St-Jean 340.40.67.156 Tel. 3474187656 [email protected] Welf Bruno Camisasca Davide Loc.Underwald - Gressoney-La-Trinité Piazza Umberto - Gressoney-Saint-Jean Tel. 0125 36.62.54 - 348 74.37.892 Tel. 0125 35.53.05 - 348.39.42.300 [email protected] [email protected] www.davidecamisasca.com A. GUIDE ALPINE Comune Alessandro Fr. Woaldiele - Gressoney-La-Trinité Tel. 0125 36.64.47 - 0125 36.63.47 Laurent Francesco Fr. Champsil – Gressoney-St-Jean 347 28.00.006 Tel. 348 81.44.942 [email protected] [email protected] Comune Massimo Mattiello Franco Fr. Theilly, 7 - 11020 Aosta Comune Paolo Fr. Woaldiele - Gressoney-La-Trinité Tel. 347 52.64.610 Tel. 0125 36.64.47 - 347.08.02.910 [email protected] [email protected] Silvestri Alberto Fr. Perletoa – Gressoney-St-Jean Jaccod Alessandro Tel. 348 92.87.506 Str. Collina - Donnas [email protected] Tel. 0125 80.42.87 - 349.05.75.625 Nicolino Felice EMERITUS ALPINE GUIDES Fr. Borgo , 77 Montjovet Tel. 0166.792.80 - 328.90.23.510 Busca Dario 0125 80.41.92 Gressoney-St-Jean Squinobal Arturo Monterin Willy V. Deffeyes - Gressoney-St-Jean Gressoney-La-Trinité Tel. 0125 35.53.13 - 0125 35.50.73 348 31.41.494 Rial Elio Gressoney-La-Trinité Squinobal Lorenzo Fr. Valdobbia - Gressoney-St-Jean Rial Brenno Gressoney-La-Trinité Tel. 0125 35.55.95 - 0125 35.63.46 349.89.56.756 Manganoni Roberto [email protected] Fr. Crest - Verrès

4 INTRODUCTION

monte Rosa

Monte Rosa has always represented a point of interest for its natural beauty, inspiring many great figures including poets, authors, painters, naturalists and, above all, alpinists. It is known that in the early 500s, Leonardo da Vinci adventured onto the slopes of Monboso (Monte Rosa). The origin of this name comes from the ancient Celtic name, “roëse”, “roiza”, “rovesa”, meaning glacier. The first true recorded ascent of Monte Rosa dates back to 1778; the “Roccia della Scoperta” near the Lys Col, was climbed by seven alpinists from Gressoney, Valentino and Joseph Beck, Sebastian Linty, Joseph Zumstein, Nicolas Vincent, François Castel and Etienne Lisco. The subsequent climbs on the massif were also led by alpinists from Gresso- ney; in 1819 Nicolas and Joseph Vincent claimed the peak which then took their name (Vincent Pyramid). In the same year, Nicolas Vincent and Joseph Zumstein reached the 4561-metre peak which is now known as the Zumstein Spitz. In 1893, the Gressoney guides accompanied Her Majesty the Queen Margherita of Savoia to the opening ceremony of the highest observatory hut in Europe, which was named after her. Later, there were many first ascents completed by the Gressoney guides. In 1902, there was the first ascent of the south-east face of the Western Lyskamm by the guides, Franceso Curt,. Giacomo Davide and Alessandro Lazier. In 1903, the guides, Curtaz and Pellissier, along with Mrs Grace Filder, opened a new route on the south-east face of Western Lyskamm, which was then given the name, “via Filder” (the Filder route). In 1907, the first winter ascent of Dufour took place with the guides Antonio Curtaz and Franz Lazier who accompanied the alpinist Mario Piacenza. Then, in 1911, the first Italian ascent of the north face of Lyskamm and the first ascent of the south-west ridge of Castore were completed by the the guide Antonio Welf along with his client, Carlo Fortina.

The Society of the Gressoney Alpine Guides was founded in 1963.

5 LIST OF MONTE ROSA CLIMBS

• Dufour con discesa a Zermatt (4633 m) • Dufour dal colle Zumstein (4633 m) • Dufour per la cresta Rey (4633 m) • Dufour per la via Piacenza (4633 m) • Nordend per il colle Zumstein con discesa a Zermatt (4612 m) • Zumstein (4561 m) • Punta Gnifetti Capanna Margherita (4554 m) • Lyskamm orientale per cresta Est (4527 m) • Lyskamm orientale per cresta Sella (4527 m) • Lyskamm orientale per cresta Perazzi (4527 m) • Lyskamm orientale parete Sud via Guglielmina (4527 m) • Lyskamm orientale parete Nord (4527 m) • Lyskamm occidentale parete Nord (4481 m) • Lyskamm occidentale per cresta O. (4481 m) • Lyskamm occidentale via Ravelli (4481 m) • Lyskamm occ. (4481 m) e or. (4527 m) trav. • Traversata Naso del Lyskamm (4100 m) • Cresta S. al Naso del Lyskamm dal Plateau con bivacco (4272 m) • Colle del Lys (4248 m) • Ludwigshohe (4342 m) • Punta Parrot (4436 m) • Shwarzhorn (4322 m) • Balmenhorn Cristo delle vette (4167 m) • Piramide Vincent (4215 m) • Piramide Vincent per la cresta Sud (4215 m) • Piramide Vincent per la cresta Sold. (4215 m) • Punta Giordani (4046 m) • Punta Perazzi (3906 m) • Castore (4226 m) • Corno Bianco cresta Nord (3320 m) Biv. Gastaldi • Becca di Frudiera (3076 m) Mont Nery

For information about these climbs or climbs in other areas of the Aosta Valley and the Alps, ask in our office, now located near the Gover lake in Gressoney Saint-Jean, in the cross-country ski-school hut.

6 CLIMBING AND MOUNTAIN

CHILDREN AND TEENAGERS To introduce your children to the world of rock-climbing and the mountains, the Gressoney Guides organise a weekly programme of courses and outings in the mountains. WEEKLY PROGRAMME •Every afternoon from 3p.m. to 6 p.m., the climbing wall at the Saint Jean office is open. It is recommended for all those who wish to try climbing, of all ages, from 4 to 99 years! COST: € 5 for 2 climbs •Monday, Wednesday, Friday, meeting at 9 a.m., until 1 p.m., group climbing courses for children (5-18years) COST: € 50 per person per lesson. Groups of 4 •Tuesday, meeting at 9 a.m. and returning in the early afternoon, outing on the Indren glacier to gain experience using crampons and pick-axe. For children and adults COST: € 50 per person. Groups of 7. Lift and lunch not included. •Thursday, meeting at 8 a.m. and returning mid-afternoon, trekking for children and families towards the source of the river Lys, visiting the Cortlys mountain pasture. COST: € 20 per person. Groups of 12 people. Bring packed lunch •Saturday and Sunday, two-day outings, in a mountain refuge, with climbing course and ascent to Punta Telcio. Departure at 9 a.m. from the Punta Jolanda ski-lift, one-hour walk to the Gabiet climbing wall. Lunch in the refuge and rock-climbing until 4p.m. Ascent to the Orestes’s Hütte refuge for dinner and overnight stay. Sunday morning, rock-climbing ascent of the easy ridge to Punta Telcio. Packed lunch and descent via footpath to Stafal. For children aged 10-18 years. COST: € 200 per child. Groups of 2-4 children The cost includes the lift-pass to Punta Jolanda, lunches, half-board in the refuge and use of the climbing harness. IN ADDITION: For children and teenagers, the following can be privately organised: climbing lessons, via ferrata ascents, outings to approach the world of mountaineering which can be carried out in one day or with overnight-stay in a refuge or in a tent. For costs and information or suggestions, ask directly in our office.

7 CLIMBING

VIA FERRATAS

Via ferratas are specially-equipped mountaineering routes which allow you to have a taste of rock-climbing and also reach amazing viewpoints. At Gressoney, our guides can take you on two routes and their variations.

COMPULSORY EQUIPMENT: helmet, harness, ferrata kit with energy- absorbing lanyard, walking boots. Jose Angster Ferrata A beautiful itinerary to enjoy a great view of the inhabited area of Gressoney Saint Jean and of Monte Rosa. With an alternative route, “The Children’s Ferrata” it is an excellent introduction to the world of via ferratas.

Ferrata of the Gressoney Guides An itinerary which is favoured for the view of the inhabited area of Trinité from above and its closeness to the Monte Rosa massif. A highlight of this ferrata is a 40m “Tibetan bridge” suspended 60m above the ground. The alternative red route (with tibetan bridge) and black route are very demanding and suitable for those with previous ferrata experience.

COSTS: •Children’s Ferrata: 60 euros + 10 euros per person (max. 5) •Jose Angster and the Guide’s ferrata: 80 euros + 10 euros per person (max.3) •Guide’s ferrata via the red route: 100 euros for 1 person, 120 euros for 2 people

The price includes the cost of the guide. Personal and everything else is not included.

8 DAILY PROGRAMMES

CLIMB TO 4046 METRES AT PUNTA GIORDANI

The quickest and easiest of the 4000m peaks of Gressoney. In around 3 hours of walking, you can experience the “thin air” at high altitude without depriving work or family of your presence for longer than a day.

PROGRAMME: Meeting at 7.30a.m. at the Staffal ticket office and ascent by lift to Punta Indren (3270m). From there we fully climb the Indren glacier until reaching the rock of Giordani peak at 4046m.

COST: GROUPS OF 4 PEOPLE € 85 per person GROUPS OF 3 PEOPLE € 110 per person GROUPS OF 2 PEOPLE € 160 per person ONE PERSON € 300

The price includes the cost of the guide. Lift pass, lunch and everything else are not included.

THE 4000m PEAKS OF MONTE ROSA IN A DAY

Thanks to the new Indren lift, it’s now possible to climb some of Rosa’s peaks, enjoy the amazing views and experience the glacial environment at high altitude without having to stay in a refuge and without taking precious time away from other activities. Among the destinations which are easily- reached in around 4 hours of walking are the Piramide Vincent (4215m), the Cristo delle Vette (4167m) and the Roccia della Scoperta at the colle del Lys (4153m).

PROGRAMME: Meeting at 7.30a.m. at the Staffal ticket office and ascent by lift to Punta Indren (3270m). From there you reach the Lys glacier which you follow up to your chosen goal.

COST: GROUPS OF 4 PEOPLE € 100 per person GROUPS OF 3 PEOPLE € 120 per person GROUPS OF 2 PEOPLE € 160 per person 1 ONE PERSON € 300

The price includes the cost of the guide. Lift pass, lunch and everything else are not included.

9 ONE AND A HALF DAY PROGRAMMES

MARGHERITA HUT 4554m 4554 m

The Margherita Hut on Punta Gnifetti at 4554m is the highest mountain refuge in Europe. Following the horizon, your gaze can take in all 360°, admiring all of the surrounding Alps and the start of the Appenine range. Despite being quite physically demanding, from a technical point of view it is easy and especially interesting as the entire route follows the Lys glacier.

ProgrammE: Day 1: Meeting at the departure point of the lifts in Staffal at 2.30p.m., equipment check and ascent by lift to Punta Indren (3270m). Departure on foot to the Città di Mantova refuge (3498m), arriving after around 2 and a half hours of walking. Dinner and overnight stay. Day 2: Departure at 6.30 a.m. and arrival after around 5 hours at the Marghe- rita Hut (4554m) on Punta Gnifetti, after a short break, return to the Città di Mantova refuge and then we descend to Punta Indren. Expected arrival at Staffal at around 4.30p.m.

Cost: GROUPS OF 5 PEOPLE € 115 per person GROUPS OF 4 PEOPLE € 134 per person GROUPS OF 3 PEOPLE € 175 per person GROUPS OF 2 PEOPLE € 230 per person ONE PERSON € 454

Il prezzo comprende esclusivamente il compenso e le spese vive della guida.

10 ONE AND A HALF DAY PROGRAMMES

Punta Castore 4226 m

This mountain is the perfect compromise between difficulty and length in reaching the summit. All that is needed is around 3 and a half hours of enjoyable walking, which is especially fun in the second half thanks to its elegant snow ridge which is not excessively demanding.

ProgrammE: Day 1: Meeting at the departure point of the lift in Staffal at 2.30p.m., equipment check and ascent by lift to the Bettaforca Col at 2700m. Departure on foot to the Quintino Sella refuge 3585m, around 3 and a half hours of walking. Dinner and overnight stay. Day 2: Departure at 6.30 a.m. and arrival after 3 and a half hours at the summit of Punta Castore 4226m, after a short break we return to the Quintino Sella refuge and then descend to the Bettaforca Col. Expected arrival at Staffal at 3.30 p.m.

Costo: GROUPS OF 4 PEOPLE € 134 per person GROUPS OF 3 PEOPLE € 175 per person GROUPS OF 2 PEOPLE € 230 per person ONE PERSON € 454

Il prezzo comprende esclusivamente il compenso e le spese vive della guida.

11 ONE AND A HALF DAY PROGRAMMES

VINCENT PYRAMID 4215 m

This mountain is ideal for those who have never dared to even dream of reaching 4000m. To get to the top, we follow the first part of the route to the Margherita Hut to then take the easy slopes to the right. From the Vincent summit, the three valleys of Alagna, Gressoney and Champoluc can be admired and the view can extend from Monte Bianco to the Maritime Alps.

ProgrammE: Day 1: Meeting at the departure point of the lifts in Staffal at 2.30p.m., equipment check and ascent by lift to Punta Indren (3270m). Departure on foot to the Città di Mantova refuge (3498m), arriving after around 2 and a half hours of walking. Dinner and overnight stay. Day 2: Departure at 7.30 a.m. and arrival after around 3 hours of walking at the Vincent Pyramid Hut 4215m, after a short break, we return to the Città di Mantova refuge and the descend to Punta Indren. Expected arrival at Staffal at 3.30p.m.

Cost: GROUPS OF 4 PEOPLE € 125 per person GROUPS OF 3 PEOPLE € 160 per person GROUPS OF 2 PEOPLE € 215 per person ONE PERSON € 415

The price covers exclusively the payment and expenses of the guide

12 ONE AND A HALF DAY PROGRAMMES

TRAVERSE OF THE LYSKAMM NOSE 4100 m

An evocative traverse which develops at the feet of Lyskamm’s south face and passes over the Nose at 4100m. This route is one of the most important parts of the historical ski-mountaineering race, “Mezzalama Trophy”. Following this route, you can admire the great crevasses of the Felik and Lys glaciers, completing a route which allows you to take in views of all of the Monte Rosa massif.

ProgrammE: Day 1: Meeting at the departure point of the lift in Staffal at 2.30p.m., equipment check and ascent by lift to the Bettaforca Col at 2700m. Departure on foot to the Quintino Sella refuge 3585m, in around 3 and a half hours of walking. Dinner and overnight stay. Day 2: Departure at 6.30 a.m. and arrival after 5 hours at the Città di Manto- va refuge 3498m, after a break, we go to Punta Indren and then descend to Staffal. Expected arrival at 4.30 p.m.

Cost: GROUPS OF 4 PEOPLE € 154 per person GROUPS OF 3 PEOPLE € 198 per person GROUPS OF 2 PEOPLE € 258 per person ONE PERSON € 511

The price covers exclusively the payment and expenses of the guide

13 ONE AND A HALF DAY PROGRAMMES

LYSKAMM TRAVERSE 4527 m

This traverse develops along the sharp ridge between the two Lyskamm peaks. It is a very exposed traverse which is considered to be one of the most majestic and breathtaking of the Alps. Good preparation and experience of walking on ice with crampons is required for this type of itinerary.

ProgrammE: Day 1: Meeting at the departure point of the lift in Staffal at 2.30p.m., equipment check and ascent by lift to the Bettaforca Col at 2700m. Departure on foot to the Quintino Sella refuge 3585m, in around 3 and a half hours of walking. Dinner and overnight stay. Day 2: Departure at 5.30 a.m. and arrival after around 7 hours at the Città di Mantova refuge 3498m, after a break, we go back to Punta Indren and then descend to Staffal. Expected arrival at 4.30 p.m.

Cost: 2 PEOPLE € 400 per person ONE PERSON € 650

The price covers exclusively the payment and expenses of the guide.

14 ONE AND A HALF DAY PROGRAMMES

Punta Dufour 4633 m

This is the second highest peak in Europe. This is an imposing itinerary due to the enormous Macugnaga precipice and for the extraordinary and fantastic jagged ridge which leads to the summit. For this programme, good preparation and experience of moving on ice and rock with crampons is required.

ProgrammE: Day 1: Meeting at the departure point of the lifts in Staffal at 2.30p.m., equipment check and ascent by lift to Punta Indren (3270m). Departure on foot to the Città di Mantova refuge (3498m), arriving after around 2 and a half hours of walking. Dinner and overnight stay. Day 2: Departure at 3.30 a.m. and arrival after around 36 and a half hours at Punta Dufour. After a short break, we return to the Città di Mantova refuge and then descend to Punta Indren. Expected arrival at Staffal at 4.30p.m. NB. È possibile modificare la durata del programma e l’itinerario su richiesta.

Cost: 2 persone € 400 per person ONE PERSON € 650

The price covers exclusively the payment and expenses of the guide.

15 il massiccio del monte rosa

Castore Lyskamm Occ. Lyskamm Or. 4226 m 4477 m 4527 m

R. Q. Sella 3585 m Lyskamm Or. P. Dufour P. Zumstein P. Gnifetti P. Giordani 4527 m 4633 m 4583 m R. Margherita 4046 m 4559 m

R. Mantova 3500 m MULTI-DAY PROGRAMMES

MONTE ROSA EXPERIENCE

This 4-day programme has been designed to enable you to explore the Monte Rosa massif, climbing 5 of its 4000m peaks and dedicating time to the technique of moving with crampons, self-rescue manoeuvres and roped-party management on ice. DateS: 13-14-15-16 July / 27-28-29-30 July / 17-18-19-20 August ProgrammE: Day 1 : Meeting at the departure point of the lifts in Staffal at 2.30 p.m., equipment check and ascent by lift to the “colle della Bettaforca”, 2700m. Departure on foot to the Quintino Sella refuge 3585m, around 3 and a half hours of walking. Dinner and overnight stay. Day 2: Departure at 6.30 a.m. and arrival after around 3 and a half hours at Punta Castore 4226m. After a break we return to the Quintino Sella refuge for a good lunch. In the afternoon, we go on the glacier for a lesson on self- rescue, setting up a pulley system to rescue a companion from a crevasse. We will also look at the issues regarding systems of tying into a roped-party, the progression of the roped-party on a snow ridge and the progression on a glacier. Dinner and overnight stay at the Quintino Sella refuge.

18 MULTI-DAY PROGRAMMES

Day 3: Traverse of the Lyskamm Nose 4100m, passing at the feet of the Lyskamm south faces. This route is one of the most important parts of the historical ski-mountaineering race, “Mezzalama Trophy”. Having passed the “Nose”, we will descend to a lower plain and then climb up to Cristo delle Vette (the highest statue of Christ the Redeemer in the world), positioned on Balmenhorn 4167m, where we will eat our packed-lunch. In the afternoon, we will reach the Margherita Hut 4554m, Europe’s highest refuge, where we will have dinner and stay overnight. Day 4: After having admired one of the most spectacular and evocative dawns in the world, we leave the refuge to climb to Punta Zumstein 4561m. After taking a couple of photos, we descend, via the Lys Col and we will head up to the last 4000m peak of the experience, Vincent Pyramid 4215m. Descending to the Mantova Refuge for lunch we will study in depth the topi- cs dealt with on Day 2. Estimated arrival at Staffal at 4.30 p.m. COSTO: GROUPS OF 4 PEOPLE € 300 per person GROUPS OF 3 PEOPLE € 400 per person GROUPS OF 2 PEOPLE € 600 per person

This tour can be organised for other dates on request. The price includes the cost of the guide and half-board for the guide. Lift passes, accommodation and refuge lunches for clients and everything else is not included. 19 MULTI-DAY PROGRAMMES

Mountaineering Tour of Monte Rosa A unique chance to discover the fantastic Monte Rosa massif from all angles.

2 NIGHTS, 3 DAYS Day 1: Meeting point at Staffal, equipment check, ascent by lift to Punta Indren 3270m, and from here we continue on foot to the Mantova Refuge 3498m; dinner and overnight stay. Day 2: Ascent to the Lys Col 4248m, short break and then decent along the Grenzgletscher to reach Rotenboden 2815m; from here we take the Gorgengratt scenic train to the characteristic village of Zermatt, dinner and overnight stay. Day 3: Ascent by lift to take in the spectacular view from Klein Matterhorn 3883m, a stone’s throw from Cervino (the Matterhorn), and from here we traverse below the Breithorn South faces, to then climb Castore 4226m and after a short break we go to the Sella Refuge 3585m for lunch and then descend to Gressoney. Max 4 people per group GROUPS OF 4, 275 EUROS per person

3 NIGHTS, 4 DAYS Day 1: Meeting point at Staffal, equipment check, ascent by lift to Punta Indren 3270m, and from here we continue on foot to the Mantova Refuge 3498m; dinner and overnight stay. Day 2: Ascent to Europe’s highest refuge (Capanna Margherita 4554m) and to the third peak of the Massif (Zumsteinspitze 4561m), descent along the Grenzgletscher to the very new Monte Rosa Hutte 2795m, dinner and overnight stay. Day 3: Traverse to Rotenboden 2815m and descent to Zermatt with the Gornengratt scenic train, afternoon available for visiting the characteristic Swiss village, dinner and overnight stay. Day 4: Ascent by lift to take in the spectacular view from Klein Matterhorn 3883m, a stone’s throw from Cervino (the Matterhorn), and from here we traverse below the Breithorn South faces, to then climb Castore 4226m and after a short break we go to the Sella Refuge 3585m for lunch and then descend to Gressoney. Max 4 people per group GROUPS OF 4, 365 EUROS per person

20 MULTI-DAY PROGRAMMES

4 NIGHTS, 5 DAYS Day 1: Meeting point at Staffal, equipment check, ascent by lift to Punta Indren 3270m, and from here we continue on foot to the Mantova Refuge 3498m; dinner and overnight stay. Day 2: Ascent to Vincent Pyramid 4215m, then to Cristo delle Vette 4167m and to Lugwigshohe 4342m and we then continue to the Margherita Hut 4554m, dinner and overnight stay. Day 3: Ascent to Zumsteinspitze 4561m (the third peak of the Massif), descent along the Grenzgletscher to reach Rotenboden 2815m; from here we take the Gornengratt scenic train to the characteristic village of Zermatt, dinner and overnight stay. Day 4: Ascent by lift to take in the spectacular view from Klein Matterhorn 3883m, a stone’s throw from Cervino (the Matterhorn), and from here we traverse below the Breithorn South faces, to then climb Castore 4226m and after a short break we go to the Sella Refuge 3585m, dinner and overnight stay. Day5: Traverse of the Lyskamm Nose 4100m, in the natural amphitheatre of the two splendid Felik and Lys glaciers, descent to the Mantova Refuge 3498m for lunch before returning to Gressoney. Max 4 people per group GROUPS OF 4, 445 EUROS per person

4 NIGHTS, 5 DAYS – Departure and arrival at Zermatt Day 1: Ascent by lift to the Kleine Matterhorn 3883m, at a stone’s throw from Cervino (the Matterhorn), continuing to the Western and Central Breithorn 4160m, then descent to the Guide di Ayas Refuge 3420m, dinner and overnight stay. Day2: Ascent to the higher of the twin peaks, Castore 4226m and after a short break to appreciate the breathtaking view, descent to the Sella Refuge 3585m, dinner and overnight stay. Day 3: Traverse of the Lyskamm Nose 4100m, in the natural amphitheatre of the two splendid Felik and Lys glaciers, descent to the Mantova Refuge 3498m, dinner and overnight stay. Day 4: Ascent to Vincent Pyramid 4215m, then to Cristo delle Vette 4167m and to Lugwigshohe 4342m and we then continue to the Margherita Hut 4554m, dinner and overnight stay. Day5: Ascent to Zumsteinspitze 4561m (the third peak of the Massif), descent along the Grenzgletscher to reach Rotenboden 2815m; from here we take the Gornengratt scenic train back to the characteristic village of Zermatt. Max 4 people per group GROUPS OF 4, 550 EUROS per person

21 MULTI-DAY PROGRAMMES

Mountain Photo Workshop 2011 Mountain Photography courses

In search of the most evocative corners between the Aosta Valley mountains

The workshops are dedicated to those who are passionate about photography and the mountains and who wish to expand their theoretical and practical knowledge. With the help of Davide Camisasca, a professional photographer and alpine guide, who will put his professional and local knowledge at the disposal of the participants to enable them to learn more about the techniques of photography in the mountains. The proposed workshops are spread out over one or two days of activity in the field, between the beautiful Aosta Valley mountains; the course combines practical exercises in the field and lessons in the refuge. A concluding stage will be dedicated to a critical analysis of the photography produced by the participants. The workshops look at the various stages of preparation of a shot, from studying the subject and the framing to territorial planning for the selection of the most appropriate equipment. The concluding stage which takes place in Davide Camisasca’s photographic studio will be dedicated to the selection of images and the enhancement using photo editing software. The course will be integrated with the consultancy of the journalist and director Pietro Giglio, who will deal with a section of the course dedicated to the techniques of shooting videos to relate mountain journeys using a video camera.

FOR INFORMATION, BOOKINGS AND CALENDAR OF EVENTS Davide Camisasca - Puro Waeg, 9 - 11025 Gressoney-St-Jean (Ao). web: http://www.davidecamisasca.com/ - mail: [email protected] cell: +39 3483942300. The dates are subject to change depending on weather conditions.

22 MULTI-DAY PROGRAMMES

TREKKING IN THE OTRO AND VOGNA VALLEYS

This itinerary allows you to discover some of the ancient well-conserved Walser villages which are very different from the more well-known Gressoney villages. It is a fairly challenging route requiring 5-6 hours of walking per day yet leaving you a lot of time to enjoy the natural environment. Ideal for teenagers.

PROGRAMME: Day 1: Meeting at 8.00a.m. at the Staffal ticket office and ascent by lift to Gabit (2380m) from where we start to walk up to the Passo di Zube (2870m). From this col, we begin the descent in the beautiful Otro valley to the Zar Senni refuge (1650m) where we stay overnight. Day 2: Descent towards Alagna, where we buy our packed lunch and take a taxi to St.Antonio (1380m), a Walser-style village at the start of the Vogna valley. We climb up to Peccia (1530m) where we turn into the adjoining Valdobbia valley, which we follow up to the Sottile home(2380m) for our overnight stay. Day 3: We start to descend towards Gressoney Saint Jean. Passing via the small Principi valley we reach the town in the early afternoon.

COST: € 840 per group

The price includes the cost and expenses of the guide. Refuge accommodation, lunches, lift passes, taxi and bus transfers and everything else are not included. Groups of up to 12 people.

23 GROUP PROGRAMMES

QUEEN MARGHERITA HUT 4554 m

Every Thursday in July and August, with a minimum of three and a maximum of 5 people, the Society of Gressoney Guides organises an ascent to the Margherita Hut.

ProgrammE: Day 1: Meeting at the departure point of the lifts in Staffal at 2.30 p.m., equipment check and ascent by lift to Punta Indren 3270m. Departure on foot to the Città di Mantova refuge 3498m, with around two and a half hours of walking. Dinner and overnight stay. Day 2: Departure at 6.30 a.m. and arrival after around 5 hours at the Marghe- rita Hut 4554m on Punta Gnifetti, after a short break, we return to the Città di Mantova refuge and then continue down to Punta Indren. Estimated arrival at Staffal at 4.30 p.m

Cost: 230 EUROS per person.

Groups: minimum of 3, maximum of 5. The price covers the cost of the guide, half-board in the refuge, rental of harness and crampons. Drinks and extras in the refuge, lunch on the second day and everything else is not included.

24 GROUP PROGRAMMES

Punta Castore 4226 m

Every Thursday in July and August, with a minimum of three and a maximum of 5 people, the Society of Gressoney Guides organises an ascent to Punta Castore.

ProgrammE: Day 1: Meeting at the departure point of the lift in Staffal at 2.30p.m., equipment check and ascent by lift to the Bettaforca Col at 2700m. Departure on foot to the Quintino Sella refuge 3585m, in around 3 and a half hours of walking. Dinner and overnight stay. Day 2: Departure at 6.30 a.m. and arrival after 3 and a half hours at the summit of Punta Castore 4226m, after a short break we return to the Quntino Sella refuge and then continue down to the Bettaforca Col. Expected arrival at Staffal at 3.30 p.m.

Cost: 230 EUROS per person

25 WINTER ACTIVITY

FREERIDE – OFF-PISTE SKIING

Off-piste skiing on Monte Rosa is an unforgettable experience. The vast valleys where the pistes pass leave ample space from skiing where you can create your own tracks in the fresh snow. The variety of terrain and settings allow you to enjoy descents in both perfect woods and wide sunny slopes, from steep, technical channels to between seracs. Let one of our guides take you into this world, whatever your skiing level may be.

Compulsory Material: ARVA device for rescuing avalanche victims.

COST: Grupps of 3 person 94 euro per person Grupps of 4 person 80 euro per person Grupps of 5 person 70 euro per person Grupps of 6 person 60 euro per person Grupps of 7 person 50 euro per person

The price covers the cost of the guide. Skipass, lunch, transfers and everything else is not included.

26 WINTER ACTIVITY

HELISKIING

This activity has become more popular because of the many possibilities that Monta Rosa can offer to skiers. In fact, the slopes of this huge mountain offer descents of to 3000m at a time in wild and isolated environments, often on glaciers, in which case, a guide is invaluable to avoid the possible dangers and make the most of unforgettable skiing experiences.

Compulsory Material: ARVA device for rescuing avalanche victims.

COST: from 240 EUROS per person for groups of 4-7 skiers

The price covers the cost of the guide and the helicopter flight. Skipass, lunch, transfers and everything else is not included. Possible further flights cost 150 Euros per person.

27 WINTER ACTIVITY

SNOWSHOEING

Snowshoes are ideal for those who wish to discover the mountain in winter but aren’t able to ski. The calm pace of walking with snowshoes is also perfect for those who aren’t looking for a physically tiring experience and in this way you can fully appreciate the peace and tranquillity of the mountain in its pure winter coat

Compulsory Material: ARVA device for rescuing avalanche victims.

COST: ½-day Itinerary 150 EUROS, Full-day Itinerary 250 EUROS

The price covers the cost of the guide. Skipass, lunch, transfers, snow-shoe rent and everything else is not included.

28 WINTER ACTIVITY

SKI-MOUNTAINEERING

Ski-mountaineering in Gressoney has many different forms of expression: from multi-day trips on the glaciers, in the tracks of the legendary Mezzalama trophy route, to one-day trips in the wilderness of the lateral valleys. It is also very common to combine the use of climbing skins with the ski-lifts to enjoy long descents without excessive effort. This is the best way to make the most of Monte Rosa’s ‘free-ride’.

Compulsory Material: ARVA device for rescuing avalanche victims.

COST: Grupps of 3 people 94 euro a person Grupps of 4 people 80 euro a person Grupps of 5 people 70 euro a person Grupps of 6 people 60 euro a person Grupps of 7 people 50 euro a person

The price covers the cost of the guide. Skipass, lunch, transfers and everything else is not included.

29 REGULATIONS

ENROLMENTS for private excursions take place in the Guide di Gressoney-La- Trinité office in Tache or in the office in Gressoney Saint-Jean in the area of the Gover lake.

For GROUP PROGRAMMES, the excursions are organized only once a week. The departure date is fixed for Thursday each week during July and August. For all the group programmes, the price covers: • the assistance of the alpine guide; • half-board accommodation in the refuge (drinks excluded) • the use of mountaineering equipment (harness, crampons) if issued by the society.

THE CITTÀ DI MANTOVA REFUGE

The City of Mantova Refuge was opened in 1982 by the society of Gressoney guides who have built and now own it. The name was given in memory of four mountaineers from Mantova who were victims of a ski-mountaineering incident on the slopes of Lyskamm. Over the last two years, the refuge has been subject to restorations to considerably improve its comfort, making it one of the top refuges in a high mountain environment. At the end of the works, there will be a new room with big panoramic windows, internal toilets, a new and more efficient kitchen and bigger dorms. The refuge is the ideal starting point for many climbs on Monte Rosa, such as the Margherita Hut, Vincent Pyramid, Lyskamm, Dufour and for the classic traverses towards Zermatt or to the Sella refuge. Furthermore it is a panoramic goal for amazing excursions from Stafal or Gabiet.

It is open from 18 June to 12 September. For bookings and information, call 347 08.02.910 or go to the website www.rifugiomantova.it

Our guides are available to look at other programmes which are not shown in this guide, to meet all your needs. Furthermore, they can also take you to discover other peaks in the Aosta Valley and in the whole of the Alpine range. We also organise exciting canyoning trips.

30 SUMMARY

• Le guide...... 4 • Il Monte Rosa...... 5 • Le ascensioni...... 6

CLIMBING AND MOUNTAIN

• Bambini e ragazzi ...... 7

CLIMBING

• Ferrate ...... 8

DAILY PROGRAMMES

• Il primo 4000: Punta Giordani ...... 9 • I 4000 in giornata...... 9

ONE AND A HALF DAY PROGRAMME S

• Rifugio Margherita (4554m)...... 10 • Castore (4226m) ...... 11 • Piramide Vincent (4215 m)...... 12 • Traversata del Naso del Lyskamm (4100 m) ...... 13 • Traversata dei Lyskamm (4527 m)...... 14 • Punta Dufour (4633 m)...... 15

MULTI-DAY PROGRAMMES

• Stage Monte Rosa...... 18 • Tour del Monte Rosa alpinistico...... 20 • Corso di fotografia in montagna...... 22 • Trekking ...... 23

GROUP PROGRAMMES

• Rifugio Margherita...... 24 • Castore...... 25

WINTER ACTIVITY

• Freeride...... 26 • Heliski...... 27 • Ciaspole ...... 28 • Scialpinismo ...... 29

• Regolamento gite...... 30 • Il Rifugio Città di Mantova...... 30 SOCIETY OF GRESSONEY GUIDES Founded 1963

Località Tache 11020 Gressoney-La-Trinitè (Ao) Italia Ph. - Fax: 0125 36.62.80 - 349 43.20.563 [email protected] www.guidemonterosa.info