SUMMER/WINTER 2011-2012 Società delle Guide di Gressoney Località Tache - 11020 Gressoney-La-Trinitè Ao Italia Tel. e Fax 0125 36.62.80 - 349 43.20.563 [email protected] www.guidemonterosa.info Thanks To : Regione Autonoma Valle d’Aosta Unione Valdostana Guide di Alta Montagna Cover PhoTo Davide Camisasca PhoTograPhs: Davide Camisasca Alessandro Comune Arnoldo Welf Bruno Welf graPhiC Design anD PrinTing: Tipografia Valdostana, Aosta SOCIETY OF GRESSONEY GUIDES MONTE ROSA ALPINE GUIDES ALPINE GUIDES GUIDE ALPINE Welf Arnoldo Fr. Edelboden - Gressoney-La-Trinité Tel. 0125 36.68.02 - 348 31.11.534 Busca Alessandro loc. Underwoald - Gressoney-St-Jean 340.40.67.156 Tel. 3474187656 [email protected] Welf Bruno Camisasca Davide Loc.Underwald - Gressoney-La-Trinité Piazza Umberto - Gressoney-Saint-Jean Tel. 0125 36.62.54 - 348 74.37.892 Tel. 0125 35.53.05 - 348.39.42.300 [email protected] [email protected] www.davidecamisasca.com A. GUIDE ALPINE Comune Alessandro Fr. Woaldiele - Gressoney-La-Trinité Tel. 0125 36.64.47 - 0125 36.63.47 Laurent Francesco Fr. Champsil – Gressoney-St-Jean 347 28.00.006 Tel. 348 81.44.942 [email protected] [email protected] Comune Massimo Mattiello Franco Fr. Theilly, 7 - 11020 Aosta Comune Paolo Fr. Woaldiele - Gressoney-La-Trinité Tel. 347 52.64.610 Tel. 0125 36.64.47 - 347.08.02.910 [email protected] [email protected] Silvestri Alberto Fr. Perletoa – Gressoney-St-Jean Jaccod Alessandro Tel. 348 92.87.506 Str. Collina - Donnas [email protected] Tel. 0125 80.42.87 - 349.05.75.625 Nicolino Felice EMERITUS ALPINE GUIDES Fr. Borgo , 77 Montjovet Tel. 0166.792.80 - 328.90.23.510 Busca Dario 0125 80.41.92 Gressoney-St-Jean Squinobal Arturo Monterin Willy V. Deffeyes - Gressoney-St-Jean Gressoney-La-Trinité Tel. 0125 35.53.13 - 0125 35.50.73 348 31.41.494 Rial Elio Gressoney-La-Trinité Squinobal Lorenzo Fr. Valdobbia - Gressoney-St-Jean Rial Brenno Gressoney-La-Trinité Tel. 0125 35.55.95 - 0125 35.63.46 349.89.56.756 Manganoni Roberto [email protected] Fr. Crest - Verrès 4 INTRODUCTION MONTE Rosa Monte Rosa has always represented a point of interest for its natural beauty, inspiring many great figures including poets, authors, painters, naturalists and, above all, alpinists. It is known that in the early 500s, Leonardo da Vinci adventured onto the slopes of Monboso (Monte Rosa). The origin of this name comes from the ancient Celtic name, “roëse”, “roiza”, “rovesa”, meaning glacier. The first true recorded ascent of Monte Rosa dates back to 1778; the “Roccia della Scoperta” near the Lys Col, was climbed by seven alpinists from Gressoney, Valentino and Joseph Beck, Sebastian Linty, Joseph Zumstein, Nicolas Vincent, François Castel and Etienne Lisco. The subsequent climbs on the massif were also led by alpinists from Gresso- ney; in 1819 Nicolas and Joseph Vincent claimed the peak which then took their name (Vincent Pyramid). In the same year, Nicolas Vincent and Joseph Zumstein reached the 4561-metre peak which is now known as the Zumstein Spitz. In 1893, the Gressoney guides accompanied Her Majesty the Queen Margherita of Savoia to the opening ceremony of the highest observatory hut in Europe, which was named after her. Later, there were many first ascents completed by the Gressoney guides. In 1902, there was the first ascent of the south-east face of the Western Lyskamm by the guides, Franceso Curt,. Giacomo Davide and Alessandro Lazier. In 1903, the guides, Curtaz and Pellissier, along with Mrs Grace Filder, opened a new route on the south-east face of Western Lyskamm, which was then given the name, “via Filder” (the Filder route). In 1907, the first winter ascent of Dufour took place with the guides Antonio Curtaz and Franz Lazier who accompanied the alpinist Mario Piacenza. Then, in 1911, the first Italian ascent of the north face of Lyskamm and the first ascent of the south-west ridge of Castore were completed by the the guide Antonio Welf along with his client, Carlo Fortina. The Society of the Gressoney Alpine Guides was founded in 1963. 5 LIST OF MONTE ROSA CLIMBS • Dufour con discesa a Zermatt (4633 m) • Dufour dal colle Zumstein (4633 m) • Dufour per la cresta Rey (4633 m) • Dufour per la via Piacenza (4633 m) • Nordend per il colle Zumstein con discesa a Zermatt (4612 m) • Zumstein (4561 m) • Punta Gnifetti Capanna Margherita (4554 m) • Lyskamm orientale per cresta Est (4527 m) • Lyskamm orientale per cresta Sella (4527 m) • Lyskamm orientale per cresta Perazzi (4527 m) • Lyskamm orientale parete Sud via Guglielmina (4527 m) • Lyskamm orientale parete Nord (4527 m) • Lyskamm occidentale parete Nord (4481 m) • Lyskamm occidentale per cresta O. (4481 m) • Lyskamm occidentale via Ravelli (4481 m) • Lyskamm occ. (4481 m) e or. (4527 m) trav. • Traversata Naso del Lyskamm (4100 m) • Cresta S. al Naso del Lyskamm dal Plateau con bivacco (4272 m) • Colle del Lys (4248 m) • Ludwigshohe (4342 m) • Punta Parrot (4436 m) • Shwarzhorn (4322 m) • Balmenhorn Cristo delle vette (4167 m) • Piramide Vincent (4215 m) • Piramide Vincent per la cresta Sud (4215 m) • Piramide Vincent per la cresta Sold. (4215 m) • Punta Giordani (4046 m) • Punta Perazzi (3906 m) • Castore (4226 m) • Corno Bianco cresta Nord (3320 m) Biv. Gastaldi • Becca di Frudiera (3076 m) Mont Nery For information about these climbs or climbs in other areas of the Aosta Valley and the Alps, ask in our office, now located near the Gover lake in Gressoney Saint-Jean, in the cross-country ski-school hut. 6 CLIMBING AND MOUNTAIN CHILDREN AND TEENAGERS To introduce your children to the world of rock-climbing and the mountains, the Gressoney Guides organise a weekly programme of courses and outings in the mountains. WEEKLY PROGRAMME •Every afternoon from 3p.m. to 6 p.m., the climbing wall at the Saint Jean office is open. It is recommended for all those who wish to try climbing, of all ages, from 4 to 99 years! COST: € 5 for 2 climbs •Monday, Wednesday, Friday, meeting at 9 a.m., until 1 p.m., group climbing courses for children (5-18years) COST: € 50 per person per lesson. Groups of 4 •Tuesday, meeting at 9 a.m. and returning in the early afternoon, outing on the Indren glacier to gain experience using crampons and pick-axe. For children and adults COST: € 50 per person. Groups of 7. Lift and lunch not included. •Thursday, meeting at 8 a.m. and returning mid-afternoon, trekking for children and families towards the source of the river Lys, visiting the Cortlys mountain pasture. COST: € 20 per person. Groups of 12 people. Bring packed lunch •Saturday and Sunday, two-day outings, in a mountain refuge, with climbing course and ascent to Punta Telcio. Departure at 9 a.m. from the Punta Jolanda ski-lift, one-hour walk to the Gabiet climbing wall. Lunch in the refuge and rock-climbing until 4p.m. Ascent to the Orestes’s Hütte refuge for dinner and overnight stay. Sunday morning, rock-climbing ascent of the easy ridge to Punta Telcio. Packed lunch and descent via footpath to Stafal. For children aged 10-18 years. COST: € 200 per child. Groups of 2-4 children The cost includes the lift-pass to Punta Jolanda, lunches, half-board in the refuge and use of the climbing harness. IN ADDITION: For children and teenagers, the following can be privately organised: climbing lessons, via ferrata ascents, outings to approach the world of mountaineering which can be carried out in one day or with overnight-stay in a refuge or in a tent. For costs and information or suggestions, ask directly in our office. 7 CLIMBING VIA FERRATAS Via ferratas are specially-equipped mountaineering routes which allow you to have a taste of rock-climbing and also reach amazing viewpoints. At Gressoney, our guides can take you on two routes and their variations. COMPULSORY EQUIPMENT: helmet, harness, ferrata kit with energy- absorbing lanyard, walking boots. Jose Angster Ferrata A beautiful itinerary to enjoy a great view of the inhabited area of Gressoney Saint Jean and of Monte Rosa. With an alternative route, “The Children’s Ferrata” it is an excellent introduction to the world of via ferratas. Ferrata of the Gressoney Guides An itinerary which is favoured for the view of the inhabited area of Trinité from above and its closeness to the Monte Rosa massif. A highlight of this ferrata is a 40m “Tibetan bridge” suspended 60m above the ground. The alternative red route (with tibetan bridge) and black route are very demanding and suitable for those with previous ferrata experience. COSTS: •Children’s Ferrata: 60 euros + 10 euros per person (max. 5) •Jose Angster and the Guide’s ferrata: 80 euros + 10 euros per person (max.3) •Guide’s ferrata via the red route: 100 euros for 1 person, 120 euros for 2 people The price includes the cost of the guide. Personal and everything else is not included. 8 DAILY PROGRAMMES CLIMB TO 4046 METRES AT PUNTA GIORDANI The quickest and easiest of the 4000m peaks of Gressoney. In around 3 hours of walking, you can experience the “thin air” at high altitude without depriving work or family of your presence for longer than a day. PROGRAMME: Meeting at 7.30a.m. at the Staffal ticket office and ascent by lift to Punta Indren (3270m). From there we fully climb the Indren glacier until reaching the rock of Giordani peak at 4046m. COST: GROUPS OF 4 PEOPLE € 85 per person GROUPS OF 3 PEOPLE € 110 per person GROUPS OF 2 PEOPLE € 160 per person ONE PERSON € 300 The price includes the cost of the guide.