REFORMA Mexico's Main Street

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THE ENGLISH SPEAKER ’ S GUIDE TO LIVING IN MEXICO JULY 2007 JAPAN IN MEXICO ISSUE www.insidemex.com

THE HISTORY OF THE JAPANESE MIGRATION TO MEXICO

A CONVERSATION WITH CARLOS KASUGA OSAKA >7

A YOUNG VOLUNTEER TAKES TO THE STREETS>9

LIFE AND ART IN OAXACA>10

SUNTORY: A MEXICAN CULI- NARY INSTITUTION>21 East to the Americas

CECI CONNOLLY on Fox's Library // Jimm Budd: The Rise and Fall of The News

IMx08Cover.indd 1 6/27/07 11:03:48 PM Rumbo a... SAN LUIS POTOSÍ

IN THIS COLONIAL MINING TOWN, Aran Shetterly discovers electric 8 twilight, historic homes and tacos rojos 24 Health Milk got your tummy down?

4 INBOX 6-7 NEWS&NOTES 12-13 ARTS&CULTURE EDITOR’S LETTER TIMESTAMP Javier Marín and Celebrating 110 years of Luz Montero. Frida’s big show Japanese migration to Mexico PERSPECTIVE Carlos Kasuga Osaka 25-26 Real Estat e 5 INVOICES on Mexico and Japan CLOSEUP The housesit- CECI CONNOLLY ter’s home is your home President Fox’s Library 8-11 INSIDEOUT GLIMPSES STEALS & DEALS 30 FAREWELLS Víctor Solís Lacquered chopsticks Shari Rettig: 1941 - 2007 and more CLOSEUP 31 THE BACK PAGE 14-19 El Sensei Putting out The News, Part II COVER A Beautiful Mix EAST TO AMERICA Akemi Tsuru Ocaña, of mixed Japanese- 20 Taste Mexican parentage, was born and raised in DURING WORLD WAR II, THEY WERE ROUNDED Mexico City. She admits that she struggled with “never feeling fully from here or there” Suntory’s Head UP THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY AND SENT as a child. Though she more closely identifi es with her Mexican heritage on her mother’s Chef on classic TO LIVE IN MEXICO CITY AND GUADALAJARA. side, she embraces both cultures. NOW, JAPANESE-MEXICAN NIKKEI DISCUSS sushi and the cream Maquillaje: Rosario González MAKE UP ASSIMILATION, INVISIBILITY AND ANCESTRY. ARTIST de LANCÔME cheese migration

NUMBER 8 • JULY 2007 • www.insidemex.com • +52 55 5574 4281 • [email protected]

Aran Shetterly Printed by SPI: Servicios Profesionales de THE GUIDE CEO Impresión, S.A. de C.V. [email protected] Distributed by Servicios de Mensajeria al Askari Mateos Alejandro Xolalpa, Detalle Margot Lee Shetterly Derechos reservados © Editorial Manda S.A. PRESIDENT Federico Monsalve Commercial Director Lorraine Orlandi Carlos Xolalpa, Sales de C.V., Cordoba 206A #4, Colonia Roma, Catherine Dunn Vivienne Stanton Griselda Juárez, Sales C.P. 06700, México D.F., México 2007. Se reforma: REPORTER/PRODUCER ART AND PR prohíbe la reproducción, total o parcial, del Luz Montero PHOTOGRAPHY [email protected] contenido de esta publicación, así como STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER CONTRIBUTOR John Boit, Melwood Global, también se prohíbe cualquier utilización meXiCo Levi Bridges Victor Solis US pública del contenido, como por ejemplo, INTERN DESIGN EDITOR RESPONSABLE actos de distribución, transformación y co- CiTY’S main EDITORIAL Alejandro Zárate Jessica Budd municación pública (incluyendo la transmis- CONTRIBUTORS Daniela Graniel ión pública). Certifi cado de reservas al uso Aline Jáuregui WEB DEVELOPMENT David Agren Alberto Correu exclusivo del título: 04-2006-111512075500- drag Emilio Betech R. Publicaciones a Medida SA 102. Certifi cado de licitud de título: 13674. Jimm Budd de CV, 2454 4666 LEGAL COUNSEL Certifi cado de licitud de contenido: 11247 Luis Fernando González Carlo Cibo BUSINESS Los artículos aquí contenidos refl ejan única- Ceci Connolly Nieves for Solorzano, DEVELOPMENT Carvajal, González, Pérez- mente la postura de su respectivo autor, y no Georgina del Ángel Cabrera Maya Harris necesariamente la de Editorial Manda S.A. de Caroline Goldman Correa S.C. Mario González-Román ADVERTISING Distribution: 50,000 C.V., por lo que dicha empresa no se respon- Tara FitzGerald [email protected] (paper and online) sabiliza por lo afi rmado por los respectivos autores aquí publicados. G1

[ 2 ] InsIdeMéxIco July 2007

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08IMX_The Guide.indd 33 6/27/07 9:09:37 PM From Japanese Parts, Made in Mexico

he United States and Canada Japanese, who seemed so different culturally, are proud of their traditions were warmly received here.” Tof opening their doors to immi- I had the good fortune to interview Carlos grants from around the world: French Kasuga Osaka, the Director General of Yakult, and Africans, Koreans and Turks, Irish and S.A. de C.V. His company makes the ubiquitous Indians, all lending their faces, voices and cus- Yakult probiotic drink, a product designed to toms to a new national identity. As people ac- promote a healthy digestive system, originally customed to thinking of Mexicans as emigrants brought from Japan to Mexico 25 years ago by in search of opportunity, it’s often difficult for Mr. Kasuga. One of Mexico’s most successful estadounidenses and canadienses (despite the entrepreneurs, Mr. Kasuga’s appreciation for fact that we move here!) to see that Mexico the patria of his parents and his passion for is and has been a destination for people from the land of his birth have combined to form a other countries seeking a new life. unique philosophy of life and work, which he Such was my surprise one day when, go- shares in motivational speeches throughout ing through the checkout line in Mikasa, the Mexico and Latin America. Colonia Roma-based Japanese supermarket, I We also spend time with a young Japanese struck up a conversation with a friendly young volunteer who works with street children employee. As Magra scanned my hijiki and in Mexico City, a Japanese artist based in rang up my tempura, she told me with pride Oaxaca, and the chef of the Japanese restau- of her grandparents’ migration to Mexico, and rant Suntory, which after nearly 40 years of also of the difficulties that Japanese Mexicans operation, is a Mexican culinary institution. endured here during World War II. I knew All share their perspectives on the intersec- that there were large Japanese migrations tion of Japanese and Mexican cultures, and to Peru and Brazil but had never heard this how elements of both shape their work and story and was immediately fascinated, eager world view. to know more about this seemingly arcane bit We would like to thank the Japanese Mex- of Mexican history. ican intercultural magazine Zetten (www. And so, in a year in which the Japanese com- coralate.net), the Asociación México Japonesa munity is celebrating the 110th anniversary of (www.kaikan.com.mx), the Cámara Japone- its first migration to Mexico, Inside México sa de Comercio e Industria de México (www. takes a look at the history and culture of this japon.org.mx) the Japanese International Co- small but dynamic group of immigrants. operation Agency (www.jica.go.jp), the Japa- In our cover article, “East to the Ameri- nese Embassy (www.mx.emb-japan.go.jp) and cas”, Lorraine Orlandi takes us to Acacoyagua, the city of Acacoyagua, Chiapas for all of their Chiapas, the site of the original migration, help on this issue. We learned so much through and talks with Mexicans of Japanese heritage the research and writing, and have taken away about their stories and identity. “It was an from it yet another perspective on the richness eye-opener to learn about the immigration of and complexity of the mole that is Mexico. one particular group to Mexico, albeit small,” Enjoy! she says “And according to all accounts, the Margot Lee Shetterly

[  ] InsideMéxico July 2007

pag. 2 y 4 .indd 4 6/27/07 12:39:26 AM [email protected] Víctor Solís For the record nishings and photos. BY Ceci Connolly The Truman library in Independence, Missouri contains documents on the deci- Vicente Fox’s presi- sion to drop the atomic bomb, desegrega- dential library con- tion of the Armed Forces and the Nurem- troversy berg war crimes trials. When I went to the Carter museum in Atlanta, I lingered over At a recent dinner party in Mexico City, the transcripts from the 1978 Camp Da- the conversation turned to Vicente Fox’s vid Accords between Egyptian President first-in-the-nation presidential library, Anwar Sadat and Israeli Prime Minister under construction in the tiny ranching Menachem Begin. town of San Cristobal. FDR’s Hyde Park library candidly ac- “It’s an embarrassment,” growled one lo- knowledges that the president hid his cal entrepreneur who voted for Fox in 2000. crippling polio from the public and that Don’t even get people started on Marta he wrote love letters to a secretary named Sahagun, Fox’s super-coifed, super-contro- Lucy Mercer. And of course, there are the versial second wife. Now she’s got hubby tapes--Nixon’s library will include Water- dreaming of a Clintonesque post-presiden- gate conversations, while recordings of cy, complete with high-paid speeches and LBJ’s verbal arm-twisting have provided a mammoth shrine in his hometown. me endless hours of listening pleasure. (“Yes,” Senora Fox told me at a luncheon Each library reflects not only the of- for the international press, she did suggest ficial record, but the human side. At the using the Clinton library as a model.) Kennedy library, I felt uplifted by the airy, It seems Mexico’s intelligentsia is sparkling edifice that evokes youthful miffed that Fox is thumbing his nose at energy and optimism. Texan LBJ’s is the the tradition of ex-presidentes quietly fad- biggest. Chatty Clinton’s—no surprise—is ing from view. Reforma snarkily dubbed the most voluminous with close to 80 mil- “Don’t mind me, but I think I just discovered the gene the library and education center, “Foxi- lion pages and 1.8 million photographs. that causes hair loss.” landia.” The punditocracy snarled about Sure, some try to gloss over the nasty a man who fell short of delivering on his stuff. Watergate. Iran-Contra. Slavery. campaign promises erecting a monument But type “impeachment” into the Clinton Inside México Listens In to himself. library website and 436 items pop up. I don’t get it. An educational center President Johnson adamantly insist- with some 4 million presidential docu- ed the archivists find the “most hateful, “It’s funny because I’ve never been sur- ments, offering the opportunity to study vicious” mail he had received to ensure rounded by so many people, so many cam- the inner workings of government is cause there wouldn’t be a “credibility gap” in eras. Japanese people never cared about for ridicule? his library. When it came time to stock beauty pageants before…. I think I have a Historians are right to dissect the Fox the Ford library, Henry Kissinger “was samurai soul. I’m very patient, and I can serve legacy: He never got his compadre, George aghast” at plans to display the U.S. em- others.” 2007 Miss Universe Riyo Mori on winning. W. Bush, to sign an immigration accord. bassy staircase that diplomats used to Mexico’s growth rate never came close escape Vietnam during the fall of Saigon, to the promised 7 percent. Last year, he Smith told me. But Ford “saw it as a sym- “It’s just huge, absolutely meddled in the presidential campaign and bol of the desire for freedom.” incredible. We believe this allowed protests in Oaxaca to turn into Fox, who sent a plush bus to Mexico tunnel is, in fact, the larg- deadly riots. City to drive journalists the five hours est tunnel ever found on the But pooh-poohing the library seems north to his ranch, is making big promises south-west border. Our quick a curious contradiction. In the United about the center he’s building on family assumption is it’s the drug States, researchers have for decades land. It will feature a replica of his presi- cartels. When we find these mined historical treasure troves at presi- dential office, educational conferences, tunnels, we see that as a vul- dential libraries. exhibits on Mayan history and the “arrival nerability to our national se- “[The US’s] is really the only system in of democracy” ushered in by his remark- curity, whether the tunnel was the world where it is required by law that able election. “They deserve to used to smuggle aliens…or in the entire record of an administration be “This center will have the mission of the No. 1 team in a worst-case scenario, some preserved, assembled in one place and defending and promoting liberty and de- CONCACAF. They sort of weapon that would over time be made available,” said Richard mocracy for Mexico and Latin America,” played well... We be smuggled in and directed Norton Smith, a presidential historian at he boasted as we slurped tequila at his just didn‘t take ad- at the United States,” Michael George Mason University. grand hacienda. vantage of our op- Unzueta, a US immigration and A tradition that began with President It’s possible Fox will once again fall portunities.” Mexican customs special agent based in San Franklin Delano Roosevelt has now grown short of his promises. But if he does de- striker Cuauhtemoc Diego, California, on the discovery to a system of 11 presidential libraries liver, Smith says the cowboy-turned-soda- Blanco on losing the of a tunnel that runs from Tijuana (soon to be 12 with the addition of the Nix- mogul “will have struck a post-presiden- Copa de Oro to the US into California, is 2,400 feet long on collection) that are run by the National tial blow for democracy.” Soccer team June 24. and 85 feet below the surface. Archives. They are stocked with speeches, diaries, film clips, personal mementos, Ceci Connolly is a reformed political reporter, oral histories, declassified materials, fur- on a leave of absence from the Washington Post. Express yourself: [email protected] www.insidemex.com [  ]

pliego 3 front.indd 5 6/26/07 9:26:10 PM [email protected]

Bi-lingual (Spanish-English) ad sales professionals Bi-lingual (English-Spanish) radio producer Domino Effect Copy Editor (English) We pAGe throuGh StAff photoGrApher luZ montero’S portfolio. Freelance writers Interns: Design, Marketing, Editorial

e-mail: [email protected]

On a rainy afternoon in winter 2005, Luz and her picture of the day. Luz was using black and white Tri- model Mayanín Ángeles were driving on a Hidalgo X pan fi lm and a Nikon N-100 35 mm camera. Rain carretera, returning to Mexico City after a photo drops splattered the lens and the Volkswagen passed shoot in a graveyard. They spied the saddled pony by just in time for her to capture the surreal propor- on the side of the road and stopped to take the last tions: the Bug, the pony and the model-bride.

[ 6 ] InsIdeMéxIco July 2007

pliego 3 front.indd 6 6/26/07 9:26:26 PM Pacifi c Exchange INSIDE MEXICO TALKS WITH Carlos Kasuga Osaka ith complimen- Wtary economies and 400 years of cul- I am 60% Japanese tural exchange, bilateral relations between Japan and Mexico have never and 60% Mexican been better. 7th Japan’s foreign investor Carlos Kasuga Osaka is Director general of rank in Mexico. Yakult, S.A. de C.V. He is Founder and President 1888 Treaty of Amity, of the Japanese Mexican School, Founder and Past Commerce and Navigation signed between Mexico President of the Panamerican Nikkei Association, and Japan. and Past President of the Asociación México 1952 Octavio Paz travels Japonesa. His parents migrated to Mexico from to Japan to reestablish the Japan in 1930. Mexican Embassy. 1977 Opening of the Ja- INSIDE MEXICO: What was it like method of sales will never work in I said, what will I do if the machine pan-Mexico Lyceum. Plan for Japanese people in Mexico during Mexico. But they said, we’re celebrating breaks down in Mexico? He said, don’t got a boost when Prime World War II? the 10th anniversary of Yakult in worry, we’ll teach you how to fi x it. Minister Kakuei Tanaka CARLOS KASUGA: [US president] Brazil. So I decided to give it a try. Every week I sent my father a letter visited Mexico in 1974. Roosevelt asked the Mexican Before we launched, my business in Japanese, so he could see how my government to send the Japanese here partners and I did a market study. 2004 Mexico-Japan language study was coming along. I told Agreement for Strength- to concentration camps in Texas. The We needed to know what people really him about the machine and my idea for Mexican government refused to do this, ate, not just what they said they ate. ening of the Economic the business. Soon after, someone from partnership signed. but did agree to move Japanese from For three months, we got up at 4 AM the company came to see me. My father around the country to Mexico City. and gathered trash in Mexico City had sent a letter to the owner, saying 4,100 Japanese nationals When the order came for us to and around the country. We spread that my Japanese was good enough residing in Mexico (1999). relocate, my family was living in out the contents to examine them. We and I was to report directly to work at Cardenas, San Luis Potosí. We were knew if people drank milk or didn’t, if 15,650 Population of given 72 hours to leave for Mexico they ate meat, and how they cleaned the factory. Japanese descendants liv- City. Two soldiers came to our house their vegetables. For me—a Latino!—going to work at ing in Mexico (1999). to escort us and another Japanese When we examined the vegetable a Japanese company was really diffi cult! Approximate family to the train station. The entire peelings with a microscope, we found All the hierarchy, having to arrive early, 109,000 number of Japanese tour- town came to see us off. It was 1942 lots of bacteria because they hadn’t sweep the factory, wear a uniform—this ists to visit Mexico in 2007. or 43. I was seven years old. been washed properly. This, among was culture shock! But it was one of the In spite of the suffering, I have other things, told us there were most important experiences of my life: 27.81% Growth in trade to give some thanks to the Mexican dietary problems in Mexico, and I learned the importance of discipline, between Japan and Mexico government. We had the best because of this, Yakult would be a order and cleanliness. The owners of inform 2005 to 2006. concentration camp in the world! In success. the company were the first to arrive Mexico City, we had access to schools The first year we sold 2,568 and the last to leave. Everyone used 10.56% Increase in Mexican exports to Japan and the chance to get an education. containers of Yakult every day. Now the same bathroom. If the owner of a in 2006. IM: How did you start Yakult? we sell three million. company has a clean bathroom, and the CK: When I was founding the Liceo IM: When was the fi rst time you went one for the workers is disgusting, you 60.9% Of Mexican Mexicano Japonés, I traveled back and to Japan? breed resentment and hatred among exports to Japan are manu- forth to Japan, looking for support. CK: In 1959. My father sent me to the workers. factured products. [Mexican president] Luis Echevarria learn how to read and write Japanese. I eventually bought two machines had given me letters of introduction While I was there, I attended the fi rst $85,112,000 USD and brought them back to Mexico to to the Japanese government. I met a International Machine Fair in Tokyo. Of fresh fi sh sold to Japan start my business making lifesavers congressional representative, and I One company made plastic beach toys from Mexico (2005). told him about the problems we had and lifesavers. I had been on the school here in Mexico. I have brought three in Mexico, including unemployment swim team, and I’d never seen anything things from Japan for children: $176,329,000 and intestinal problems caused by the like that in Mexico! I said to the owner infl atable beach toys for fun, the Liceo USD Of pork sold to water. He said, you should bring Yakult of the company, I’d like to bring these Mexicano Japonés for education, and Japan from Mexico (2005). to Mexico. to Mexico. He consulted a book of trade Yakult for health. 34.14% Increase in In Japan, women sold Yakult door laws, and said, I’m sorry, but these IM: Are you more Japanese or Japanese exports to Mexico to door. People left money in their items are prohibited for import into Mexican? in 2006. mailboxes, and the ladies came by and Mexico. Why don’t you buy the machine CK: I am 60% Japanese and 60% left the Yakult. I said to them, this and make them there? Mexican [laughs]. 95.3% Of Japanese exports to Mexico are Carlos Kasuga Osaka has run Yakult Mexico for more than 20 years. He graduated in accounting from the Escuela Bancaria Comercia manufactured products. in Mexico City. In addition his many other activities, he is President of the International Life Sciences Institute, and Vice President of the Commit- Sources: Jetro Mexico (Japan External Trade tee for the Centennial Celebration of the Japanese Migration to Mexico. He has traveled all of Mexico, to Peru and to Columbia speaking about his Organization), Ministry of Foreign Affairs of philosophy, based on Japanese-style Total Quality and Productivity. Japan, SICE: Foreign Trade Information System, jetcommunity.com.

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pliego 3 front.indd 7 6/26/07 9:26:29 PM San Luis Potosí soon to boom again

Doña Juanita’s tacos have been an institution for 48 years.

by Aran Shetterly photos by San Luis Potosí Dept. of Tourism

ust before the street lamps come on in the Jar- din de Tequis, about a ten minute walk west along Venustiano Carranza from San Luis Potosí’s city center, the sky is a deep, electric blue. It’s an unusual color, visceral, as if you Jwere a whale peering from the depths, toward the surface of a shimmering sea. Then the yellow lights twinkle on, and the color of the sky deepens, but holds the twilight for what seems an impossibly long moment. Grackles squeak and alarm from the trees in the park. Teenagers skateboard. Young parents push strollers. The Church in Matehuala: Several smaller towns are an easy drive from SLP. Along the north side of the park there’s some bustle where Doña Juanita and her family are slapping together tacos rojos. The matriarch’s been at it for 48 years. Red because there’s a touch of chili in the masa, with a bit of queso fresco rolled into a tortilla dipped in hot oil, topped off with fried carrots and potatoes, shredded lettuce, and more cheese. How to get there This little park sits out beyond the impressive colonial By car: Take Route 57 north. center, but it’s a point of convergence for potosinos. San By bus: ETN, 5hrs. from Mexico Luis Potosí is one those cities that’s deceptively large. It Norte Station. $ 385. still feels like a collection of neighbors, even though it By air: Aeromar. 1 hour 15 minute flight claims a million-plus population. from Mexico City. $ 250-300 RT. An SUV stops and two women in their 50s step out to San Luis Potosí’s colonial center order. How long have you been coming for these tacos? is built around seven plazas. One laughs and drops her hand to her waist, palm down.

[  ] InsideMéxico July 2007

pliego 3 front.indd 8 6/26/07 9:26:39 PM Since she was a little girl. A young man rolls up with his novia in a silver VW bug that looks like a crumpled ball of aluminum foil, gets his tacos, asks me if I want to see the jewelry he makes. A day laborer ambles by, inquir- ing. Might Doña Juanita have any chores for him? He munches one of her quesadillas. Doña Juanita’s a tough, wiry great-grandmother, who skips along so fast with her cane that her grandkids hustle to keep up. Business, she says, is better than ever. She’s selling more tacos at higher prices and she’s got more than enough help; the night I’m there a daughter, a daughter- in-law, and a granddaughter are working for her. My family loves the business too, she says. All the potosinos I met noted that San Luis Potosí is safe. I felt completely comfortable walking between the city’s seven plazas late at night, admiring Latin America’s first master lighting plan, designed by Mexi- can architects Gustavo Aviles and Maria Pinto-Coelho to “project unexpected geometries and shadows on streets, plazas and buildings, [and to] create narrative sensations of space and time.” Perhaps, big city folks will find the absence of below- the-surface crackle boring. But San Luis Potosí is a livable place with good infrastructure, one of the best hospitals in the region, and, with students from the Uni- versidad Autonoma de San Luis Potosí everywhere you turn, the energy of a university town. It was founded as a boomtown in 1592. The Spanish discovered gold in the nearby Cerros de San Pedro. The wealth that poured out of those gold and silver mines is evident in the mansions at the city center and street after street of well-preserved colonial houses. In fact, San Luis Tsukasa Takahashi Potosí’s next goldmine may well be these buildings. At least one is being turned into an impeccable boutique hotel. Located in the north-central part of the country less El Sensei than two hours from San Miguel de Allende, few tour- ists stop in San Luis Potosí. Why, you might wonder, is by Margot Lee Shetterly/Photo Luz Montero “It’s very hard. Sometimes they’re like, ‘What San Luis Potosí, with more colonial buildings than any do you know about me, about my life?’ In the Mexican city save the DF and Puebla, off the track for Tsukasa (pronounced su casa) Takahashi is beginning I wanted to be as Mexican as possible, to traveling foreigners and Mexicans, whereas San Miguel dressed international b-boy style: he sports an try to gain their confidence. Eventually I realized that is virtually synonymous with Americans living in Mexi- oversized t-shirt and long baggy shorts, and a I’m Japanese, and that won’t change. But they’ve co? Surely it has to do, at least in part, with the whimsy color bandana printed with Japanese characters accepted me, and I have a lot of friends here.” of history that built a storied expat tradition in one place peeks out from under his baseball cap. He is only Now, Tsukasa’s rapid fire chatter is spliced and not in another. 24 years old but commands respect in the lively with the chilango slang of his charges. He’s taught The lack of attention shows in the rental market: A breakfast room of Fundacion Pro Niños de la them origami, and how to write their names in quick check of the classifieds puts well located 2-3 bed- Calle, a non profit dedicated to sheltering Mexico Japanese. They call him Tsukasa sensei (teacher). room apartments at $180-500 USD per month. City street kids. In December, when his two year stint is up, They’ve got a shiny little airport where you can’t get 18 months ago, Tsukasa left his comfortable Tsukasa plans to return to Japan, to work in the lost and direct flights to San Antonio. As more tourists life in Fukushima (a city north of Tokyo) to kindergarten founded by his grandfather, and and expats arrive -- as they are bound to do -- it will be volunteer overseas with JICA, the Japanese currently run by his father. “I’m the oldest son, interesting to see if potosinos continue to reimagine their International Cooperation Agency, similar to and in Japan the tradition is that the oldest son present by including their past: Doña Juanita’s tacos, the the Peace Corps in the US. He was hoping to be has to follow in the father’s footprints. I guess colonial architecture, and an easy neighborliness. z placed in Africa, and was surprised when he was I could just leave, but…” his voice trails off, the assigned to Mexico. pause indicating the complications created by “All I knew about Mexico was [soccer], pushing against such strong customs. Where to stay Where to eat tequila, mariachis and cactus. I didn’t know He says he’ll carry Mexico and his work with Panorama Hotel Rincon de la Huasteca Mexico was a country that had such extreme Pro Niños back with him, though he’s puzzling Amazing views from Excellent traditional food poverty, that the gap between rich and poor was through exactly how to keep the link alive, and is the top floors. from state’s eastern low- so wide”, he says. aware of the challenges posed by distance. $50-80 USD. lands. $ He arrived with little Spanish and immediately “When I go back, I could forget; the chavos plunged into the difficult work of walking the won’t be in front of me then. I could just think Hotel Filher Restaurante 1913 around the DF, seeking out the children who of my things, and my life.” Still, the passion he SLP’s oldest. A good Solid Mexican fare with live on the streets —their lives marred by drugs, evinces for the work shows no sign of burning traveler’s hotel. local touches in lovely violence and abandonment— and convincing out, and he says that helping those in need will $45 USD for a double. space. $$ them to step toward a better life through Pro always be a part of his life. Niños. The foundation tries to return kids to “Each of us has a little bit of power,” he says, Westin SLP Doña Juanita’s tacos school and reunite them with their families, and “but together we can do lots.” Fancy hotel, outside the Cheap, tasty, filling gives then a safe place where they can eat and For more information on Pro Ninos, go to www. center. $250 USD and up. street food. ¢ bathe during the day. proninosdelacalle.org.mx or call (55) 5782-0619. z

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pliego 2 front.indd 9 6/26/07 8:54:18 PM The Art of Living Japanese artist

Akiko Miyashita Accent with eastern flair makes art, a life and Lacquered soup bowl a home in Oaxaca • Tienda H (ache) $30.00 by Askari Mateos / photo by Askari Mateos

kiko Miyashita has lived in neighborhood. “Japanese cities are Oaxaca since 1991. Besides re- not like Oaxaca. It’s harder to have moving her shoes when enter- as comfortable a life as the one I ing the house Akiko preserves have here; it is not easy to live as many other Japanese traditions, an artist. Oaxaca is warm, fam- Asuch as eating foods like green tea, rice, and ily oriented, and the time seems wasabi, and valuing responsibility, respect, to go slower. It reminds me of my hard work, and contact with the water; she childhood in Gifu, the rice fields, washes her hands and face a few times a day. and little automobile traffic. Now “Japanese people like water so much. My that city is different. It has been Artist Akiko Miyashita with daughters María Nana and Sofía Yukari. father used to say that Japan is the rainiest developed and it’s now like the rest country in the world because it’s a volcanic of Japan. But many changes are island. But for reasons of climate change I am taking place in this city too; the more isolated because they have such orga- not sure about that anymore,” she says. Historical Center has become very commer- nized lives and services. Technology has de- Akiko was born in Gifu, located in the cial and people are moving out to live in the veloped so fast that contact with others is no south-central portion of the island. She small towns nearby.” longer possible.” These are the things Akiko studied art in Nagoya and her last five years She remembers that the first time she ar- appreciates most about Mexico: traditions, in Japan were dedicated to improving her rived in Oaxaca, the mixture of the wind, the family values, and friendship. graphic abilities. dust and the heat made her feel far away from “The thing I miss the most about Japan is “One day I met [Japanese print maker] Japan. She was also struck by the inequalities rain, water” —because Oaxaca has such a dry Shinzaburo Takeda, when he had an exhi- in education, economics and culture. But the climate— “but also the sensation of belonging bition in Nagoya. He told me I should go to biggest impression came later. “After living to a place. Nevertheless, when I’m in Japan I Oaxaca, where he was living and teaching here for a year and a half I traveled by train miss being a foreigner living in Oaxaca. I have art at the Escuela de Bellas Artes. So I took from Oaxaca to Mexico City to receive my Japanese blood but my attitude is Mexican.” intensive Spanish classes and I came to study parents who had come to visit me. From the Only when the social or political problems art for two years. But the language was still train I saw landscapes different from Oaxaca seem too difficult or the water is scarce does difficult for me”. and Puebla, and I saw a whole town built with she thinks about the possibility of returning When Akiko arrived in Oaxaca there was cardboard and plastic. That was the hardest to Japan. “But I am still here, with my two less tourism than there is now. “I am not image I have ever seen in Mexico. I asked beautiful daughters María Nana and Sofía against development, but when I arrived at myself who lives here and why?” Yukari, and my art is going well.” Oaxaca’s Historical Center the only people She has had to face rejection by some local She’s become a paper installation artist, you found there were local families. That tra- people, and has endured abuses like being using centuries-old Japanese paper-making ditional atmosphere was a unique thing.” overcharged for taxis or fruit and vegetables techniques. “You can see the oaxaqueno influ- Akiko married Mexican artist Fernando in markets. Recently, she has experienced ence in my art in my drawings, the landscapes Sandoval and the couple decided to move prejudice for being divorced woman. But of small towns and local people. Definitely, to Japan. One year later, however, they re- “there are some people who have become Mexico has had a great influence on me, it has turned to Oaxaca, to live in the San Felipe more open,” she says. “People in Japan are changed my life.” ❚

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pliego 2 front.indd 10 6/26/07 8:54:22 PM Tempest in a teapot Sushi Cheat Sheet Ceramic tea kettle •Tienda H Japanese From Japanese to Spanish (ache) $250.00 to English and back again 1000 different folds, – it’s easy to give up 1000 different uses Panache and ask for a menu with pictures. Here are a few Highest quality Incorporate a few simple and functional origami paper • tips to help you order Japanese elements to add a less-is-more Tienda H (ache) with confidence. $190.00 elegance and dash of spice. Follow it up with a few delicious picks and the table is set. Robalo: Photo by Luz Montero Suzuki—Sea Bass So worth learning how Huachinango: to pronounce Tai—Red Snapper Edamame 454g Keep it together Atún: • Mikasa Kimono fabric bag • Maguro—Tuna $29.30 Tienda H (ache) $175.00 Cangrejo: Kani—Crab ccent with A Camarón: eastern flair Ebi—Prawn Lacquered soup bowl Anguila: • Tienda H Unagi—Eel ache ( ) $30.00 Salmón: Sake—Salmon Ditch the soda Esmedregal: Uni-president black Buri—Yellowtail tea • Mikasa $13.20 Amberjack Pez Globo: You’ll never see Fugu—Japanese Incentive to Tired of tequila and sushi puffer fish drop the fork cacahuates on a pairing menu Decorative japoneses? Nothing shabby Ozeki Sake Dry • Pulpo: lacquered wood Kasugai peas about this chic Mikasa $58.8 Tako—Octopus chopsticks • Tienda 180g • Mikasa Lacquered square plate • Callo de hacha: H (ache) $15.00 $45.80 0 Tienda H (ache) $85.00 Hotate—Scallop Calamar: Where to shop: Ika—Squid Tienda H Super Kise Oriental Mikasa Tadaya Yamamoto Kume (ache) Div. del Norte 2515 San Luis Potosi 170 San Francisco 238 Porfirio Díaz 918 Importaciones San Luis Potosí 173 Col. Carmen Coyoacán Col. Roma Local C Local 1 Isabel la Católica 409 Col. Roma 5605-3430 & 5574-4859 & Col. Del Valle Col. Del Valle Col. Obrera 5564-9811 5604-9602 5584-3430 5669-5211 5559-2100 5538-8337

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pliego 2 front.indd 11 6/26/07 10:09:05 PM Renaissance From comics to the classics, sculptor Javier MarÍn goes in search of humanity Man by Margot Lee Shetterly photos by: Luz Montero

mature poets imitate; mature poets steal; bad poets deface what they take, and good poets make it into something better, or at least something different. IThe good poet welds his theft into a whole of feeling which is unique, ut- terly different from that from which it was torn…” –T.S. Eliot, from The Sacred Wood: Es- says on Poetry and Criticism, 1922.

Javier Marín´s colossal Colonia Roma workshop is bustling: construc- tion workers bathed in dust climb and descend a stairway, wielding drills; a woman meticulously exam- ines a schedule tacked to a door. In one corner, four young men are mov- ing one-sixth of the 250 kg frame that will be part of an installation at the Casa de America cultural center in Madrid. Together, the six pieces will form one of two fiberglass rings filled with wired-together pieces of broken molds from Marín´s many previous sculptures—disembodied hands, faces, torsos, so fragmented as to be abstract—and will be attached like wreaths to the building’s façade. Marín’s work inspires passion. “People identify with my work; it’s ac- cessible,” he says. “The human figure is the most universal thing. At some shows, there are people who come and they just cry and cry.” The man himself is slender and handsome, gracious and easygoing. He exudes the confidence of some- Above, and top: Detail of the instal- one at ease with their talent, neither Sculptor Javier Marín in his Colonia Roma studio. lation for Casa de America in Madrid. boastful nor artificially humble. Born in Michoacan in 1962 to a that someone took the time to write a his work. There are repeated refer- enormous heads, bearded and Posei- family of ten, Javier Marín studied whole page of how much they hated ences to classical and modern titans don-like, preside over the museum’s Visual Arts at the National Autono- my work,” he says) his 27-year career of art, mythology and philosophy: entry, like a council of the Gods. But mous University (UNAM) in Mexico has been an unqualified success. Aristotle and Apollo, Michelangelo rather than make the pieces perfect, City. Though gifted in photography, An oversized coffee table book on and Dante, Rodin and Nietzsche. copying the Greco-Roman ideal that painting and theater costume design, the sculptor and his art—beauti- One’s instinct is to classify Marín’s we’ve known since grammar school, he soon settled on sculpting, and with fully curated and produced by the aesthetic as classical. In a recent these heads, and the other pieces the exception of a bad review at the be- artist—intersperses essays written exhibition at the Pinacoteca Diego in the exhibit and in his studio, are ginning of his career (“I was just happy by critics between photographs of Rivera in Xalapa, Veracruz five monumental but distorted, riddled

[ 12 ] InsideMéxico July 2007

pliego 2 front.indd 12 6/26/07 8:54:49 PM Insight Frida at 100 Bellas Artes presents a blockbuster exhibition of one of Mexico’s greatest icons

by Askari Mateos Photo by: Luz Montero

rida Kahlo was born in the artist’s creative process. It begins Coyocan July 6, 1907. with the self-portrait room and contin- Now, 100 years later with ues on to still lives, portraits and urban Frida Kahlo 1907-2007, a landscapes. National Tribute, the Insti- The chronology begins with her early Ftuto Nacional de Bellas Artes (INBA) life during the last days of the reign of and Fundación Museo Dolores Olmedo Mexican President, Porfirio Diaz, and Patiño have assembled the largest ever emphasizes the important relationship exhibition of her work. It can be seen the girl had with her father, Guillermo from June 13 to August 19, where it Kahlo. From there it moves to the revo- References both classical and modern characterize Marin’s work. will fill eight galleries at the Museo del lutionary period and Frida’s entrance, Palacio de Bellas Artes. guided by photographer Tina Modotti, with holes, graffitied with cryptic The emotion in the work is indi- Although some might downplay Fri- into the world of politics. The exhibit in- numbers and words like vivir and vidual—grief, anguish, ecstasy—and da Kahlo’s success by saying that her cludes her travels in the United States, ni tu ni yo. They’re at once larger collective: it’s difficult to view the work is bound to tragedy, the exhibition her relationship with Trotsky and than life and vulnerable. The effect fragmented installation pieces like offers a fascinating glimpse at the Mexi- Trotskyism, and, finally, her death. is overwhelming. the Casa de America ring without can painter’s many, artistic facets. “Who In the Jose Clemente Orozco room, When he refuses to be pigeon- recalling the genocides that have has ever said that Frida Kahlo’s paint- visitors will see demonstrations of Frida’s holed, when he levels the influence marked the 20th and 21st centuries. ings are naive is wrong, although we little known admiration for calligraphy; of the classics in his work with that Despite Marín’s unsparing eye must recognize that she was influenced there are the letters and manuscripts in of comic books, urban culture and —or perhaps because of it— his strongly by popular art and pre-hispan- which she emphasized the aesthetic as- telenovelas, the claim rings true. sculpture is optimistic and truthful, ic symbols. Nevertheless, Frida Kahlo is pects of her texts as well as the content. He robs the poses of the ancient and openly embracing all aspects of our the Latin artist with the highest market In the Justino Fernandez room you find Italian masters, infuses them with humanity, however ugly or pain- value in the world,” says Bellas Arte her work on paper: drawings, watercol- the exaggerated energy and move- ful. Like the great masters of any director, Roxana Velásquez. ors and the only etchings she made. ment of pop images, and layers it all epoch, he has the talent and vision 354 of her pieces are together here, in- The photographs were curated by with a directness and sentimentality to appeal to the art world’s standard cluding 65 oils, 45 drawings, 11 watercol- Frida’s niece Cristina Kahlo. These im- that in the hands of a lesser talent bearers, and a popular sensibility ors and five etchings. The exhibition also ages will give to the public an intimate would be hackneyed. He plays to that roots his work in the public includes unpublished documents and portrait of a woman who was a master the audience, but we don’t mind one realm. Ultimately, it is this rare manuscripts: 50 letters, 100 photographs artist, personality of her time, and a bit; like the best popular culture, combination that has made Marín and one facsimile version of her dairy. photographic model. Marín’s work is great art: familiar, not just an acclaimed Mexican art- Many of these art works are em- To celebrate this exhibition the Bel- purloined and original. Instead of ist, but one of the most successful blematic (The Two Fridas), while oth- las Artes has organized several activi- idealized statuary, what he presents sculptors in the world today. Marín ers (Dorothy Hale’s Suicide), are little ties for people all ages, conferences and is closer to what we view in the mir- won’t deny the pleasure that comes known to the public. Some pieces have a catalogue which includes the thoughts ror each day—bodies and souls made from his work’s broad appeal. never before been shown in Mexico. and observations of 40 intellectuals, more beautiful and more interesting “I love people,” he says with a “There’s no doubt that this is Frida including some of Frida Kahlo’s biog- by the scars of life and time. smile, acknowledging the crowds Kahlo’s most complete exhibition, ev- raphers, such as Raquel Tibol, Carlos “I want to show us the way we that show up when his work is on er,” says Roxana Velásquez. Fuentes, Carlos Monsiváis, Elena Poni- are in reality, somewhere between display. “I love that lots of people The exhibition rooms are divided atowska and Margo Glantz. pleasure and torture,” he says. come.” ❚ thematically in an attempt to highlight The show is a must. ❚ www.insidemex.com [ 13 ]

pag 13 y 20ok.indd 13 6/27/07 12:44:33 AM The little known story of Japanese migration assimilation, suffering and identity in Mexico

By Lorraine Orlandi Photos by Luz Montero hen they sailed across the world in 1897, Asahiro Yamamoto and Saburo Kiyono were in their early 20s. In May of that year, they W and their fellow sailors landed in a place of searing sun and jungle fever. They walked for more than a week into the interior, settling in Acacoy- agua, Chiapas. Their dream of growing coffee there failed. Only one member of the group returned to Japan. The rest, including Yamamoto and Kiyono, stayed.

As many as 20,000 more Japanese Yamamoto, proudly calls herself both followed Ashahiro and Saburo to Mexico Mexican and Nikkei -- descended from in the ensuing decades. They overcame Japanese. She studies the Japanese language. cultural and language divides, unforgiving She loves mole and sushi. living conditions and, in some “I am Mexican, but I am proud of my cases, roaming bands of armed Japanese heritage,” Harumi says. guerrillas. They set down roots and prospered. Along the way, they These family histories encapsulate became increasingly Mexicanized, the little-known story of the Japanese marrying into Mexican families and giving migration to Mexico that began 110 years their children Spanish names. ago. Over the past century, the Japanese Asahiro Yamamoto had been dead for migrants >> years by the time the youngest of his eight children, Francisco Rokuro Yamamoto Cruz, married Kiyono’s granddaughter, Martha francisca ono , 80, is the child of Japanese Kiyono Sanchez, in 1956. The newlyweds emigrants to Mexico. She lives near de Tapach- spoke little Japanese and settled in Mexico ula, Chiapas, close to where the first Japanese City to raise four children. Today, their 16- colony settled. She’s photographed here in her year-old granddaughter, Harumi Quezada brother, Ernesto’s house in Coyoacan.

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IMX08_Main JAPAN.indd 14 6/26/07 8:24:21 PM East to the Americas

IMX08_Main JAPAN.indd 15 6/26/07 8:24:30 PM and their offspring have seen their culture ebb Japanese Association in Mexico City, says of and flow in their adopted patria. For decades the early immigrants. “It’s said that some were they were largely forgotten as they dispersed trained as Samurai warriors. That’s the only and assimilated into Mexican society. Dur- way they could have survived as they did.” ing World War II many hid their Japanese Toda comments that the impact of the Japa- heritage or, at the behest of the United States nese on the Chiapas locals “must have been government, were transplanted by Mexican something like when the Aztecs first saw the authorities from rural homes to metropolitan conquistadors, with their elaborate clothing centers. Now, many of the descendants are and their formal ways.” Still he and descen- looking back and celebrating their Japanese dants of the first immigrants emphasize that ancestry. the local people welcomed the strangers and “My upbringing at home inculcated Japa- likely saved them from perishing altogether. nese values, like discipline, honor and loyalty,” says Harumi. “But you must adapt to the coun- Revolution in Acacoyagua try where you live and take the best from each By 1910, the immigrants’ new homeland was culture. Mexican people are hard-working, engulfed in the first revolution of the 20th Cen- warm, spontaneous. One can share these dif- tury, which ended the autocratic three-decade ferent approaches to life.” rule of Porfirio Diaz. The civil war touched virtually all sectors of Mexican society. The The Enomoto Migration Japanese immigrants were not exempt from Toward the end of the 19th Century, Mexican the struggle and the changes, though by re- President Porfirio Diaz looked to draw immi- maining neutral they perhaps were spared the grants and foreign investment to modernize worst of the conflict’s atrocities. his poor and largely indigenous nation. Diaz Jose Martin Nomura Hernandez, 31, is mu- was the first foreign leader to sign a friendship nicipal president of Acacoyagua. It’s still a and trade pact with Japan in 1888 and the first farming town and counts among its 15,000 Latin American leader to encourage Japanese residents, what is probably country’s largest emigration. concentration of Japanese descendants. It is “Mexico had pretty much given up on the no doubt one of the few towns in Mexico where Indians, saying the Indians are holding back white rice is a dietary staple. modernization so we have to take land away “[During the revolution] there were rebels from them and give it to immigrants, espe- in Acacoyagua, the townspeople were fighting cially white immigrants,” says Michigan State among themselves, and my great-grandfather University historian Jerry Garcia, a specialist was a mediator,” Nomura says. “They sought in the migration. him out to intervene [and make peace].” Nine years later, the Enomoto migration The youngest son of Asahiro Yamamoto, was launched. The Japanese government pur- Francisco Yamamoto, tells how his father sin- chased 65,000 hectares of land in Mexico’s gle-handedly defended the homestead from Soconusco region near the Guatemalan border, revolutionaries who came to town in search and sent 36 young men, including Ashahiro of weapons. and Saburo, off to farm coffee there. “They came shooting, and it might have “They were promised land to plant and grow been a Sunday because everyone was away,” coffee, but when they arrived they were given Yamamoto says. “My father was home alone the worst land possible to grow coffee and they with my mother and the children. He shut lacked proper equipment,” says Garcia. “Their the door and started firing out the window. inexperience played a part, but essentially My mother passed him the guns -- he had an the best coffee land was already taken up by arsenal. Then he went out the back door and Germans who had come a little bit earlier. The started shooting. The rebels ran. He saved our Japanese and Mexican governments are both family and home that day.” culprits. Mexico promised land and resources, Over the years, some Japanese immigrants the Japanese government promised to help traveled north from Chiapas, mainly to Mexico them with start-up funds through the consul- City and coastal fishing areas where they be- ate in Mexico City, but the consulate pretty gan making a mark as businessmen, doctors much turned a blind eye to the situation.” and dentists, educators and scientists. Desperate, a handful of the colonists walked from Chiapas to Mexico City to confront Japa- nese officials. They arrived on the consul’s doorstep in tattered clothes, sunburned and hungry after a 30 day walk, Garcia says. They were returned to Chiapas. But the arrival of Tamiko Kawabe teaches dance a group of Japanese Christians revived the colony. The newcomers started cattle ranches at the Ginrei Kai. She and Miriam and introduced other successful businesses make a bridge for students: Kenzo into the community. “They were not just farmers, there were cat- Kihara (3); Ilda Aceves (11); Naoko tle ranchers and really prominent people from Kihara; y Lourdes Córdoba (17). Japan,” Isao Toda, president of the Mexico

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IMX08_Main JAPAN.indd 16 6/26/07 8:24:38 PM Beatiful tradition Prac- ticing Japanese fan dance at the Ballet Monderno Mexicano Ginrei Kai in San Pedro de los Pinos, DF.

Yamamoto family Descen- dants of two of the first Japanese to arrive Mexico, Harumi Queza- da, Francisco Rokuro Yama- moto, Martha Kiyono y Martha Hamamoto Kiyono at home in the Colonia Roma

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IMX08_Main JAPAN.indd 17 6/26/07 8:24:59 PM Teporingo Rabbit An estimated 7,500 to 12,000 teporingo rabbits make their home in the zacatón grasses in Parque Izta-Popo. These short-eared little hoppers are particular about their real estate; they only live near volcanoes and, like nearly 1,000 mammals, birds, reptiles and amphibians in Mexico, they are found only in this country. Anything that destroys its tall grass habitat – everything from forest fires to litter – endangers it further.

In Colonia Las Águilas in Mexico City, the garden of the Mexico Japanese Association is a community haven built from WWII reparations.

Family tradition ,Tamiko Kawabe with her daughter in law Naoko Kihara.

World War II As they prospered, some Japanese families sent Those who were moved stayed in cheap hotels messenger from the National Palace,” he recalls. their Mexican-born children to Japan to study or with other Japanese Mexican families until Nishimura was informed he was being drafted and to learn to read and write Japanese. These they could start over in the new place. into the Mexican army. “Again I picked up a young Mexicans arrived in a nation preparing Francisca Ono de Takemura was 14 and the el- gun,” he says. But before he was dispatched to for war. dest of seven children when her father was forced the northern city of Monterrey, the draft ended When he began his schooling in Japan in 1938, to sell his Mexican restaurant in Tepic, Nayarit, and he was excused from service. In his early Yoshiya Nishimura, born in Veracruz, was 11 and move his family to Mexico City. 20s, he repeated primary and secondary school years old. By the time he started high school, he “All of us who lived in Tepic left; we were six in Mexico. He finished his engineering degree at and his classmates were being trained to handle families. Each one looked for a place to live,” says the UNAM when he was 31 and went to work for weapons and meet an American invasion. Takemura, now 79. “My mother was very sad. But the electric utility. “They told us, ‘on such a day and at such an she kept it to herself.” In 1957, the Mexican government paid hour, you will become a soldier of the Japanese A delicate, gracious woman with a ready 700,000 pesos in reparations to the Japanese Empire,’” says Nishimura, now 80 and retired laugh, Takemura hesitates when asked about Mexican community for their suffering and from a 30-year career in Mexico’s Federal Electric- the relocation. It was traumatic, she admits, loss of property during WWII. A matching gift ity Commission. but she now believes it was for the best that from Japanese businessmen led to the found- Meanwhile, the U.S. government was pres- her family moved to the city. Like other Japa- ing of the Mexico Japanese Association, cre- suring their Mexican counterpart to round up nese descendants, she is quick to point out the ated to bring the two cultures closer together. Japanese nationals and citizens of Japanese generosity that Mexico has shown the Japanese The association’s luxurious compound-- com- descent into US style internment camps. For community over the years. plete with restaurant, language school, meeting the most part (A small number of “high risk” “They say that in some countries in South center and swimming pool-- provides a haven Japanese citizens and Germans were put in a America the Japanese were not treated well. In for the community in the south of Mexico City camp in Veracruz, according Isao Toda.) Mexico Mexico we are held in high esteem. I am Mexican resisted the US demands, agreeing only to move by birth and it is an honor because Mexico is a Proud to be Japanese, in Mexico Japanese Mexicans away from coastal and border very worthy country. We are happy our parents The nationalist fervor that followed the 1910 areas. Most were relocated to Mexico City and came to Mexico, because here we have lived con- revolution changed Mexico’s immigrant policies. Guadalajara, where they were monitored but not tentedly.” Unlike other Latin American countries, such as detained. Only the lives of the Japanese Mexicans Meanwhile, Nishimura, who spent years try- Peru and Brazil, that encourage Japanese to emi- in Chiapas continued uninterrupted, thanks to a ing to get out of Japan, finally got home in 1948, grate, Mexico basically closed the door. Today, an petition by the state governor who cited their a decade after he was sent away. estimated 15,000 Japanese Mexicans live among critical contribution to the local economy. “A week after I got back [to Mexico] they sent a a national population of more than 100 million.

[ 18 ] InsideMéxico July 2007

IMX08_Main JAPAN.indd 18 6/26/07 8:25:22 PM Teporingo Rabbit An estimated 7,500 to 12,000 teporingo rabbits make their home in the zacatón grasses in Parque Izta-Popo. These short-eared little hoppers are particular about their real estate; they only live near volcanoes and, like nearly 1,000 mammals, birds, reptiles and amphibians in Mexico, they are found only in this country. Anything that destroys its tall grass habitat – everything from forest fires to litter – endangers it further.

Kenzo Kawabe , 3, grandson of Tamiko Kawabe.

Remembering the ancestors, Columns bearing the names of the Japanese pioneers who emigrated to Mexico, stand in the garden of the Mexico Japanese Association.

In some ways, theirs has been more a story woman won the Miss Universe pageant – held of successful blending than those of other im- in Mexico this past June – Murakami cheered. In migrant groups. The Chinese, for example, also the World Cup soccer tournament, she has two came to Chiapas around the turn of the previ- teams to root for. She teaches Japanese language ous century, but their history in Mexico is more and studies Japanese dance. painful. Nikkei in Mexico hold dear what they see as “The Chinese did not completely assimilate Japanese commitment to hard work and educa- into Mexican society during the early part of tion. According to Carlos Kasuga Osaka, the the 20th Century,” says the Michigan State his- CEO of Yakult Mexico, 74% of Nikkei are uni- torian, Garcia. “A lot of Chinese men brought versity educated. their wives with them. Japanese men primarily Francisco Yamamoto proudly relates that his came single and married Mexican women. In the four children are all successful professionals. He Chinese experience, there were harsh atrocities and other Nikkei say they are grateful to Mexico during the early part of Mexican revolution. for opening its arms to their ancestors and giving They were massacred and expelled. That didn’t them a new country in which to live, build fami- happen to the Japanese. Assimilation protected lies and prosper. Francisca Ono de Takemura them. But this assimilation also explains why it’s helped found the Enomoto Association in Acacoy- kind of a forgotten past in Mexico. “ agua, where she has lived since marrying into This invisibility gives rise to an identity ques- one of the original immigrant families in 1950. tion that troubles many Japanese Mexicans. A The organization does small community projects few years ago Patricia Murakami was visiting as a way of giving something back to the people New York when she was robbed and her Mexican who first welcomed the Japanese, she says. passport stolen. She went to the Mexican consul- Nishimura, who was almost drafted into ate and was turned away. “They told me, ‘this is armies on opposite sides of the Pacific and now not the place, you’re Asian,’” says Mexican-born collects a modest Mexican government pension, Murakami, 41. “In Japan we are not Japanese, has no doubt about where he will end up. “I was and in Mexico we are not Mexican.” born in Mexico. I am 80 years old and the end is But like Harumi Quezada Yamamoto, Mu- nearing,” he says with a chuckle. “Yes, I go to Ja- rakami says she takes the best of both worlds pan to visit. But where to live day to day, where and values them equally. When a Japanese to die and be buried, well, it’s Mexico.”❚ www.insidemex.com [ 19 ]

IMX08_Main JAPAN.indd 19 6/26/07 8:25:44 PM For almost 40 years, Suntory Taste of has been bringing the the rising sun traditions Chef Masahiko Muto of Suntory Restaurant of Japan to Mexican diners By Margot Lee Shetterly Photos by Luz Montero

Suntory Executive Chef York Resident investigates how Masahiko Muto has spent a shortage of Japan-trained a decade at the flagship cooks has led to a growing restaurant in Mexico number of Mexican and Latin American susheros helming Japanese restaurants in New Dark wood paneling and white tablecloths lend York and Chicago. In the sushi the dining room a classic feel chef competition of the 2006 Japanese food festival in Los Angeles’ Little Tokyo, a Salva- doran and a Mexican won first and third place, respectively. Suntory has closed its doors in many other countries around the world due to sharply in- creased competition. Accord- ing to the Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, there are 20,000 Japanese restaurants world- wide. In the US there are now 9,000, twice as many as there were a decade ago (the only Suntory still open in the US or Canada is in Hawaii). Here in Mexico, however, Suntory is still an institution, synonymous with authentic Japanese cui- sine, and is expanding rather than shrinking. In addition to Gold foil adorns this dish made of cod, fish eggs its two branches in Mexico City and cherry tomatoes (Del Valle and Lomas) and one each in Guadalajara and Aca- “Dozo omeshia gari kudasai.” Sao Paolo and Atlanta before flavor. Garlic in this platter is an- cacy which can be fatal if not pulco, Grupo Suntory owns coming to Mexico ten years other Mexican touch.” prepared properly. the Polanco restaurant Sunka Masahiko Muto, Executive ago, says the owners of Sun- And what about cream The restaurant’s staff, in- (Mexican with Japanese touch- Chef of the Japanese restaurant tory had personal acquaintances cheese, a ubiquitous ingredient cluding four trained sushi es), Santa Fe’s Shu (Japanese Suntory, explains that before and in Mexico, and wanted to bring in sushi rolls in Mexico? chefs, is mostly Mexican, which fusion) and is opening another after eating, Japanese diners say Japanese cuisine and culture to “Cream cheese in sushi means paying extra attention to Shu in Acapulco this year. this quick blessing for the food the country. Suntory’s clientele originated in the United States. language and cultural barriers. With its dark wood pan- at the table and for those who is 90% Mexican, and grill items California rolls and other rolls “[With a Japanese staff] I eling, white tablecloths and prepared it. It’s a little different like tepanyaki and shabu shabu that use non traditional ingre- can use few words, everyone manicured garden, the flagship from the Mexican buen provecho, are favorites. dients like cream cheese and understands everything. Here, Del Valle restaurant feels like but just as traditional. “The base of what we do avocado started there, and I have to explain more.” How- a throwback, as if the décor Since the restaurant opened is classic Japanese cuisine, but since the United States and ever, Muto’s team has learned hasn´t changed a whit in almost in Mexico City´s Del Valle neigh- we make some adjustments for Mexico are closely linked, these many Japanese terms, and even four decades of business. Re- borhood in 1970—the Japanese Mexican tastes, like serving soy rolls eventually found their way though they don’t go so far as cent years have brought young- whisky maker’s first foray into sauce with chili and lime,” says down here.” to prepare sushi at home (“Fish er, hipper Japanese restaurants the restaurant business—Sun- Chef Muto. This being said, the restau- is very expensive here,” says to the scene, but Suntory is still tory has enjoyed a revered place An exquisite platter of fried rant presents a large menu with Masa) they do cook simpler Mexico´s Japanese godfather. in the Mexican culinary land- pieces of chicken resting on a all the sushi, sashimi and rolls dishes for their families like “This was the first authentic scape, even before Japanese cui- bed of chiles provides another that diners around the world Japanese-style fried rice. Japanese restaurant in Mexico, sine was commonplace in cities example. “The fried chicken is have come to love, as well as North of the border, the says Chef Masa. “Every day, ev- like New York and Los Angeles. a very typical Japanese dish, but a smaller menu of Japanese synergies between Mexican ery week, every month, the cli- Chef Muto, who spent his 22 here we fry it in oil that has been specialties like fugu (called pez cooks and Japanese cuisine ents keep coming. For decades years career in Suntory restau- soaked overnight in chile de árbol, globo in Spanish, or puffer fish are exploding. A recent article it was the parents, and now we rants in Singapore, Vancouver, to infuse the chicken with that in English), the renowned deli- published in the magazine New see their children here.” ❚ [ 20 ] InsideMéxico July 2007

pag 13 y 20ok.indd 20 6/27/07 12:45:27 AM Eat In What’s your or favorite Eat Out This month, we asked Inside Japanese México readers and staff which Japanese restaurants they love, and why. Here’s what they said: Restaurant?

LOS CABOS GUADALAJARA MEXICO CITY MEXICO CITY MEXICO CITY

Nick San Tokai Tori Tori Sushi Taro Mikasa Two locations: Av. Providencia 2802, Anatole France 71, Av. Universidad 1861, San Luis Potosí 173, Las Tiendas de Palmilla, Col. Providencia Col. Polanco Col. Coyoacán Col. Roma Local 116 Tel: (33) 3641-2285 Tel: (55) 5280-9069 Tel: (55) 5561-4083 Tel: (55) 5584-3430 Tel: (624) 144-6262 Moderate Moderate to Expensive Moderate Inexpensive and Blvd. Marina, Lote 10, Local 2 “One of the best spots in “The excellent service, a “A bit hard to spot, up on the ”For lunch-on-the-go, Tel: (624) 143-4484 Guadalajara for fresh sushi fresh and interesting menu second floor of a non-de- pop into this Asian food www.nicksan.com and people watching and impeccable presentation script building. Fabulous su- store for boxed sushi, Expensive -ranchero crooner invite you to extend the Friday shi, and also serve those giant, noodle dishes, tempura Alejandro Fernandez is afternoon sobremesa right on bubbling soups that you keep and Teriyaki. A weekend “The tuna tostadas are frequently spotted there. into dinner time. Sit upstairs hot at the table, plus some stir cook -out in front of a fusion of Mexican and A new location recently and you’ll feel like you’re in a fried dishes. Very pleasant, the store proffers grilled Japanese food and the opened on Avenida treehouse far from the hustle low-key atmosphere. If it’s goodness- fresh and hot.” sashimi cilantro is amazing, Guadalupe in and bustle of the city.” good enough for the Japa- Catherine Dunn, almost colonia Maya Harris, nese embassy Inside Mexico addictive.” Chapalita.” Inside Mexico crowd...” Reporter Luis González, David Agren, Business Ceci Connolly, lawyer journalist Development Inside Mexico Columnist

www.insidemex.com [ 21 ]

21-24.indd 21 6/27/07 10:54:55 AM Japanese grape

by carlo cibo photos by luz montero Wine? Off island, nourished by rich volcanic soils in Japan. The rest is made up of wine consumption in Japan is and the fruit ripens during the Semillon, Riesling, Chardon- robust, especially given that it’s very little is long sunny days. nay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and at only 5% right now and has known about Most of Japan’s wine pro- Merlot. far to go to catch up with beer ducing areas are found on the The 1970s was a time of (70%). 33% of wine sales are the wine south part of the main island. change for Japan’s wine indus- of Japanese vintages, with the However, the island Hok- try. Foreign wine experts arrived balance of sales being wines produced in kaido in the north has two wine from France and Australia and from France, Italy, Germany the land of producing regions, and another introduced grapes from France and Spain, as well as New island, Kyushu, in the south, has and Germany. Three Japanese World producers like the US, the rising sun. one. multinationals, Sanraku, Mann Chile and Australia. After conducting exten- and Suntory, constructed ultra- Although it might take Better known as an avid import- sive surveys abroad, Japanese modern vineyards to produce some time for Japanese wines er of wines, Japan has produced vintners brought back popular wines for the domestic market. to appear in Mexican wine dry and sweet wines for cen- American hybrids at the end Japan is best known for its stores, Asian specialty food turies. In the year 1186, koshu of the 19th century. These are sake (rice wine) but its incipi- stores here will begin stock- grapes—Japan’s only indigenous still the country’s most popular ent but stable production of ing them in the near future. wine-making grape, which pro- varietals: Campbell’s Early (a red grape wine bodes well for the In the meantime, however, duces a fruity white wine—were grape); Delaware (a delicate but industry’s future. Even though you can experiment by pairing being cultivated in vineyards acidic white, good for sparkling grape-based wine is not a sushi and other Japanese food around Mount Fuji. This region, wine); and the Muscat Bailey significant part of the culinary with complimentary wines like south of the Kofu Valley and A (a hybrid of the Koshu which tradition, Japan’s population Riesling. Champagne is a good east of Tokyo, is still Japan’s produces a good rosé). These has the disposable income pair with sushi, and you might most important wine produc- wines, along with the Koshu, necessary to cultivate a taste also try a Mexican white like ing region. There the vines are represent 85% of the viniculture for wine. The forecast for Monte Xanic.

Everyday Special Occasion Wines expert Wines Good and inexpensive With a good price/quality ratio, these choice wines are well structured and elegant Penta and make excellent gifts. The price Carlo Cibo is under $500.00. Tempranillo, Cabernet sauvignon, Mer- lot, Syrah y Petit verdot Bodega Pago del Vicario Paulinha Castilla, España Each month, Merlot 60%, Barbera 25% and we’ll bring Petit Sirah 15%, Viñas Pijoan The name refers to the five Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California months the wine spends in the cask, you a fresh the blend of five varietals, and the five An intense coincidence of aromas, senses it’s meant to stimulate. The perspective very fruity, with notes of red fruit and color is a blood red with a pomegran- fresh plums set off by herbs. Full in ate edge. The red, fruity notes—al- on the wines the mouth, pleasant, fresh, easy to most kirsch—tempt the nose. After it drink, with a medium finish. It’s a good breathes, you will find hints of balsam we drink and Mexican wine, from a small, family and rosemary. It’s for people who like vineyard and is well worth trying. You a simple, but expressive wine that why we love can find it in specialty shops like Delirio goes with a variety of foods. If you try them. in Colonia Roma. a glass at Entrevinos, you will drink more than one cup.

[ 22 ] InsideMéxico July 2007

21-24.indd 22 6/27/07 10:55:12 AM Viva Vinos! Inside México and Tierra de Vinos’ Wine Tasting photos by luz montero

ierra de Vinos and Inside Ensable Colina 2005, Crios Torrontes 2006, México promoted 5 top- Paralelo, Ensenada, Mexico Dominio del Plata. Cafayate, Tend wines at the tasting Regular price: $624 / IMX Argentina. Regular price: $233 / and have decided to extend the Reader price: $575 IMX Reader price: $185 special, IMX Community Price for the entire month of July. Aglianico 2004, Lat. 42 Reserva 1998, La Rioja If you know what you want to Mastroberardino. Irpinia Alta. Rioja, Spain. order, call the numbers (be- (Campania), Italy, Regular Regular price: $300 / IMX low) and have the wine delivered price: $319 / IMX Reader price: Reader price: $264 right to your home. $268 On June 19, Inside México and Tierra Call now and identify yourself as an In- de Vinos hosted a wine tasting for Suavignon Blanc 2004, side Mexico reader to get the IMX reader the IMX Community at the Tierra de Vi- Gramona. Cataluña, Spain. price. Tierra de Vinos Santa Fe: nos restaurant in Santa Fe. On a rainy Tues- Regular price: $399/ IMX (55) 5292-3431 Tierra de Vinos Durango: day night, 140 people turned out and all, it Reader price: $330 (55) 5208-5133 appeared, had a wonderful time meeting old friends and new, networking and trying out a superb selection of wines.

Luxury Wines This wine can be enjoyed now, or kept for a later date.

Reserva Magna Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Nebbiolo y shiraz Who’s feeling lucky? IMX wine tasters wait expectantly to see who’s going to win the wine raffle. Casa Pedro Domecq Ensenada, Baja California, México

This is a great blend, kept in French oak barrels 18 months and aged in the bottle for a year. It’s an intense red with touches of purple. The body is full and velvety, a sign of this wine’s unique complexity. If you hold it in your mouth, the French oaks stands out, combining with dried fruit, finish- ing with a light tang. It’s a connoisseur’s wine, ideal for all types of red meat. Find it in specialty shops and in department stores. The Budd family turned out in style: Jessica and Monica Balbontín of BBVA Bancomer and her Karen with father, Jimm. daughter, Alejandra. www.insidemex.com [ 23 ]

21-24.indd 23 6/27/07 10:55:33 AM Upset Long Term It could be lactose stomach? intolerance By Georgina del Angel Cabrera Stays in Photo by Luz Montero

e all know what it feels like to have Mexico digestive issues. If these continue unchecked the symptoms can affect our lives dramatically and diminish our ity professional performance. It is C important that we understand our bodies and the reaction our By Federico Monsalve digestive tracts has to different Photos by Luz Montero foods. This awareness will en- sure our comfort and well-being. The gastrointestinal tract is comprised of the mouth, Somewhere between a larynx, pharynx, stomach, small hotel and an apartment, intestine, large intestine (colon) and rectum. Food passes along these long-term stay the entire route, getting mashed and dissolved until it arrives at residences can be a the small intestine where, thanks to a variety of enzymes, nutri- reduction in production of to keep eating foods that the good option for business ents can be adequately absorbed intestinal lactase. Nonetheless, enzymes you do have can to nourish the body. What is illness (frequent diarrhea) and dissolve, and you should add people, students and not absorbed is passed through genetic factors also affect the nutritious foods that contain the large intestine and excreted concentration of lactase and can probiotics to your diet. others who are in town for through the rectum. present lactose intolerance. a week or longer The small intestine is lined Probiotics with villi and contains a plethora Lactose Intolerance Probiotics are lactic bacteria that of different enzymes that break A person is considered lactose feed on the cells in the small down nutrients (carbohydrates, intolerant when 12.5 grams of intestine and help maintain the – perhaps a touch of post- proteins and lipids) for absorption. lactose (what is found in 240 health of the small intestine. modern humor -- is dotted Food intolerances happen when ml of milk) or less produces These lactic bacteria (lactobacil- with old hardcover books, the body lacks a particular enzyme symptoms like intestinal noise, lus bulgaricus, streptococcus and a wall of floor-to-ceil- to digest certain foods. Such is the gas and diarrhea. When this thermophilus, casei chirota) ing French windows faces the case when the body doesn’t pro- occurs it is advisable to eliminate are in cultured products like tree covered street. duce lactase, an enzyme needed lactose from the diet. This pro- yogurt. Currently there are a lot Rising architectural star, to digest lactose, the carbohydrate tects the villi and small intestine of products on the market that Andrés Mier y Terán (he’s in dairy products. from frequent diarrhea that can contain lactobacillus. Nonethe- responsible for the design of The concentration of intes- severely damage the digestive less, the product that scientific restaurants Moshi Moshi and tinal lactase is greater when we tract and produce a number of studies report to have the best La Crepe Parisienne Bistro, are born, as milk is our principal additional food intolerances. effect on intestinal villi is Yakult, among others) emphasized nourishment. With age the pro- which contains the lactobacillus the apartment’s industrial duction of this enzyme dimin- If I am lactose intolerant, casei chirota. elements – corrugated metal ishes. However production of what can I do? Platón 294, ceilings, a grey brick wall in the enzyme will continue when Most importantly, you must I suggest taking one 80 ml. Polanco the living room – with thick there is a constant consumption try to reduce the symptoms of bottle of Yakult everyday in the 150 m2, 1 BR, 1.5 bath, 2 plastic detailing, glass, and of lactose, allowing many indi- intolerance to maintain a healthy morning with breakfast or at parking spaces, 24-hour raw metal touches scattered viduals to maintain a tolerance small intestine. It is important least three times a week. ❚ security + elevator. $2,800 throughout. through adulthood. USD/month. This loft has plenty of style, Georgina del Ángel is a nutritionist and researcher This partly furnished condo- yet minimalism is a love-it or Factors that diminish at the Salvador Zubirán National Institute of Nutri- minium opens to a narrow leave-it affair. For some it is intestinal lactase: tion in Mexico City, specializing in nutrition and the hallway of stark white walls the epitome of simplicity; for As previously mentioned, age treatment of chronic and degenerative diseases. Any and light formica floors. others it is just lacks soul and is the principal factor for the questions? [email protected] A clear plastic bookshelf warmth.

[ 24 ] InsideMéxico July 2007

21-24.indd 24 6/27/07 10:55:46 AM Suites Ejecutivas kitchenette. The central loca- Giorgio tion also puts you within walk- Río Lerma 166, Cuauhtémoc ing distance of the Ángel de To Kiss, or not From 75 m2 to 100 m2, from la Independencia monument. 1 - 2 BR, 1 - 2 bath, 1 parking The Giorgio is less than a year space. 24-hour security + old and doesn’t yet have a elevator, gym, and maid ser- restaurant or room service, yet to Kiss? vice. From $2,000 - $3,300 Río Lerma street is a popular USD/month. hang out offering sports bars The Giorgio’s basic and no- and restaurants; you can cruise frills design walks a line some- more eateries and bars in Zona Part 1: Business where between a hotel room Rosa, a 10-minute walk away. and a nomad’s apartment. Plain, dark wood furnishings etiquette in Mexico invoke quiet, solid practicality rather than flair and overt aes- thetics. Designed with busi- ness travellers in mind, these By Emilio Betech R. suites come with high-speed internet in every room, a small business center with computer n e o f t h e pointment 15 minutes late Business cards are always ports and a conference area, most inter- is a big no-no. But if you call exchanged in a first meet- and hotel services such as daily esting things and blame it on the traffic, ing. Mexicans love their cleaning and cable TV. that comes to you’re OK. (You can pretty professional titles, and use If you’re staying in to work, mind when much blame everything on them constantly. The most you’ll have a comfortable liv- Oyou compare life in Mexico the traffic.) If you schedule common title is licenciado ing room, a large couch, desk, with that of other coun- a meeting more than three which can apply to practi- work table and a well equipped tries, is the way we work. days in advance, it’s a good cally any college graduate. The hours we punch in, the idea to call and confirm, as These titles are followed by speed with which we pro- many Mexicans do not use the person’s surname. The cess our to-do lists…we do a calendar and may forget male courtesy title is señor it differently in Mexico. an appointment. (Mister) and the female In this column for Inside can be a señora (Mrs.) or perched in the heart of trendy México, I’ll explore issues Dress up… or button señorita (Miss) followed Condesa, only a short stroll related to working in Mex- down? Men usually wear by a surname. If you do from skads of neighborhood ico, primarily those dealing a conservative dark suit not know the person’s last restaurants, cafes and bars. with entrepreneurship. The and tie to work, and most name, you can just use the Tasteful contemporary challenge of starting a busi- women a skirt and blouse. courtesy title. paintings, luscious fresh flow- ness here can be daunting. In some fields of work and Mexican men can be jol- ers and potted plants decorate What permits will you need in small towns, casual ly and warm, and may ini- the house where light is the to kick-start your opera- wear -- meaning chinos tiate friendly physical con- central element. Flood light tion? How do you negotiate and a light shirt for men tact, touching shoulders or mingles, to great effect, with with Mexican business and a nice dress for women holding the arm of another. that of floor and hanging people? What are the legal -- is increasingly common. Withdrawing from these lamps, candles and even a few and fiscal guidelines? Jeans, T-shirts, and tennis gestures may be perceived oil torches. The general Mexican shoes are usually not con- as insulting. If you have The rooftop apartment’s work etiquette is basically sidered appropriate. Re- a close relationship with color scheme -- mustard yel- laid back. Even in urban vealing clothing for women your contact, you may hug Culiacan 6, La low and crimson – along with areas, with our hectic and shorts for either sex him or her (be prepared Condesa red terracotta tiling and large schedules, people take long are highly inappropriate. for a hug on the second or Apartment: 95 m2, 1 BR, 1.5 windows which allow in natural lunches and not a few sies- third meeting). This hug bath, roof garden light and gentle breezes, com- tas. Personal honor is high- To kiss or not to kiss? is accompanied by hearty Also available: three individual bine to give more a feeling of ly regarded. And, despite When it comes to forms of back-slap, followed by a rooms (two share a bath- hacienda than city dwelling. the presence of strong Mex- address, there are many second handshake. It is a room), communal kitchen A very minor downside ican businesswomen, the different styles. It is impor- sign of good will, a basic and living areas. Free wi-fi for those renting the rooftop macho still reigns supreme. tant to follow your gut and tenet in Mexican business throughout the house. From apartment is the need to share This is the first chapter in a imitate what others do. Men culture. ❚ $50 - $150USD/day; the the main entrance to the house survey of Mexican business will always shake hands in To be continued… apartment has discounts for with other guests. etiquette. greeting, and most women week- and month-long stays. It’s clear that “The Red will as well. A friendly kiss This casa de huespedes (guest Tree House” has been a labor My time or your time? on one cheek is common be- Emilio Betech R. is a house) welcomes you with a of love for its owners. ❚ Don’t expect punctuality tween a man and a woman. Marketing and Training colorful, bohemian palette, in parties or dinner invita- However, you should wait consultant, and writes for friendly hosts and a very play- For more information on tions, but when it comes to until she offers her cheek. the newspaper El Economis- ful Labrador. The building, these apartments and real work, Mexicans are more Many women will not ever ta and Entrepreneur maga- which neighbors have baptized estate in Mexico, email mar- punctual than you might kiss and will be offended if zine. You can reach him at: “The Red Tree House,” is [email protected]. think. Getting to a work ap- you attempt it. [email protected]

www.insidemex.com [ 25 ]

IMX06_25.indd 25 6/27/07 11:16:00 AM Imagine getting to live in each of these houses. All it takes is, giving up yours and adapting to the schedules of others. The life of a full-time housesitter By David Agren, in Ajijic, Jalisco Photos by Steven Miller Steven Miller stopped paying rent the home, watch over it and the pets, years ago, but he never lacks a com- and sleep there. After that, it was fortable place to crash. The retired was all word of mouth and non-stop U.S. Air Force officer housesits full- requests ever since. time in the Lake Chapala area – and “Two reasons I’m in demand: I sometimes other places – and finds don’t charge and I often fix things no shortage of homeowners looking that don’t work. I have two pensions for someone to care for their plac- so I’m financially secure.” es while traveling or heading back north. A quick glance at his calendar What are the benefits and the Steve Miller enjoys the comfort of luxury homes without shows no free time until November, downside of what you do? paying the mortgage when he plans on heading to Argen- “Living in luxury homes year- tina for several months. round, rent free that usually include He broke into housesitting by ac- a maid, gardener, pool and spa, is an What have been some of the best house softened and purified water, cident and never advertises his ser- attractive lifestyle. I enjoy the pets assignments you’ve received? satellite TV, wireless high-speed In- vices. While he seldom complains and the change of pace, homes, and “The best one are long term, three ternet, and a large carport for my about his lifestyle, the occasional locations. But best of all, I meet the or four months in great locations. minivan.” ❚ mishap – like having the refrigera- nicest people and often become good I’ve had many including a large, lux- tor suddenly quit – can sap the joy friends. ury, Mexican home in San Miguel de out of an assignment. Miller spoke “A downside is that when you Allende which included the use of a Tips For Housesitters to Inside Mexico about the ups and need a fork it’s not in the same draw- big, new Honda all-terrain vehicle. Prerequisites: Common sense, flex- downs of housesitting and the places er as the last home and Housesits Lakeside often include use ibility, the ability to learn the habits of he’s lived. the light switches have moved. I of a car, but ATVs are more fun.” others. had to fire a gardener once, but hired In case of emergency: Get phone How did you get into housesit- and new one that was much better. What kind of home style is most numbers for emergency services, ting? One home sprung a water leak on common in Ajijic/Lakeside? friends, neighbors, and know how to “About four years ago my neigh- the roof in the middle of the night “Most are quite large, newer, shut of the electricity, water and gas. bour asked me to housesit for them and flooded. I fixed it and the maid hillside lakeview homes with pool, Compensation: Must include free and move into their house while and I had all the clothes and such lush gardens, and breathtak- housing, and may include perks such they were gone. I was renting a dried out, cleaned and put back so ing views of Lake Chapala. Cool as use of automobile and a small large home at Lakeside (the Cha- the homeowners didn’t know until breezes and gorgeous sunsets are salary. pala area) ... and could have just fed they returned. There was little evi- the norm. Most are quite modern Contact: Always know how to get in the two small dogs as needed, but dence of a mishap. It also helps to be with all the amenities including a touch with the owner. homeowners want someone to live in mechanically inclined.” gourmet kitchen, dishwasher, whole

[ 26 ] InsideMéxico July 2007

pliego 3 back.indd 26 6/26/07 10:55:24 PM Transporting a Life The ins and outs of preparing a menaje de casa

By Carolyn Goldman duty-free transport of used (at least 6 months old) household belongings. hey say you carry your home in I went ahead, the boxes stayed be- your heart. But, when I moved hind, and the storage charges mounted. There eight months ago, I hired From Mexico, I applied for my FM2. movers to collect 157 boxes from my I was 9 months pregnant by the time it overstuffed New York City apartment was issued so the mandatory appearance On June 19th, 2007, and transport them across the Mexican to deliver my inventory list at the consul- border. ate in New York was out of the question. Inside México and Tier- I was seven months pregnant and Luckily I could file power of attorney; my leaving family, friends, job and birth- Mom went in my stead. ra de Vinos hosted a place behind. A sanctuary of familiar Menaje down… customs letters still things, I believed, would ease my tran- at-large? This last detail had simply wine tasting. sition to Mexico. So I packed what I’d fallen through the cracks – it’s strangely collected over the course of a lifetime, absent from the consular website. My A wonderful time was including a trove of flea market items movers required a quartet of letters, awaiting re-upholstery and at least one addressed to customs officials, signed had by all. half-used roll of aluminum foil. by me. The letters put a value on my When I called the movers to set a shipment, declared that my belongings date for pickup I hadn’t yet researched included no illegal merchandise, and the requirements for trucking my stuff agreed that my menaje would be export- to Mexico. Without transport approval ed from Mexico if ever I moved out of from the Mexican government, the mov- the country. ing company wouldn’t move. Instead of Finally, my boxes were loaded into a heading to Mexico, 4000-pounds of my truck and began their journey south. old life were deposited at a storage facil- I gave birth just four days before the Where ity in Upper Manhattan. movers arrived. A bit dazed, I held my I’d assumed that, married to a Mexi- daughter as they filed through the front can national, moving my stuff wouldn’t door with 157 boxes of clothes hangers, require working out my immigration books and aluminum foil. were status. I was wrong. I needed to file a Six months later, the furniture re- menaje de casa, the paperwork that mains un-upholstered, and I’m still not allows holders of the FM2 or FM3 visas entirely unpacked. Ni modo, as they say. (and Mexican nationals meeting certain Plenty of time for that. I won’t be revers- you? conditions) a one-time exemption for a ing a menaje anytime soon. ❚

1. Plan ahead! Check with facture) and describe large letters required by customs: consulate on time required furniture. A) declaration giving effec- Don’t miss out. Sign up to process your request. 5. Remember: “Used” = tive power of attorney to the 2. Have passport and six-months-old, or more. moving company; B) decla- for The Tip and once a Mexican visa (FM2 or FM3) 6. Prepare all copies and ration of value; C) declara- ready before beginning pe- signed pages before you tion that all merchandise is week we’ll recommend tition. Visa must be within go to the consulate. You’ll used, for personal use, that 6 months of issue. need $127 USD (cash or the shipment contains no something fun, tasty, 3. Confirm preferred bank check). illegal merchandise; and D) menaje format. 7. Take the approved in- that you will repatriate the cool or interesting. 4. Don’t close boxes ventory list to movers, or menaje when/if your visa is before everything is listed. whoever will arrive at ad- to expire. Note all electronics’ speci- uanas-customs with the 9. Expect that every box fications (make, model, se- shipment. will be opened by customs www.insidemex.com rial number, year of manu- 8. Provide movers with officials.

www.insidemex.com [ 27 ]

pliego 3 back.indd 27 6/26/07 10:55:25 PM Saving the environment in the DF “One battery at a time” teries oxidize and produce liquids By Tara FitzGerald and gases that contaminate water, hoto by uz ontero P L M earth and air. The same thing hap- he next time you see one of pens when they are incinerated. the tourist information and For example, 11 button batteries, Tguide columns along the such as those that are used in street in Mexico City, take a closer watches, can contaminate up to look. There may be more to it than 6.5 million litres of water. meets the eye. There are currently some 151 The Mexico City government’s of these containers in place in program Manejo Responsable de the Delegaciones of Coyoacan, -You can deposit AA, Pilas (responsible management of Cuauhtemoc, Miguel Hidalgo and AAA, C, D, CR and square batteries), which was launched in Benito Juarez. And about 130 more batteries, as well as February this year, has adapted are scheduled to be in place in the What can I • Take batteries out of cell phone and button many of these columns to serve as next month. do to help? appliances when they batteries in the specified containers where people can depos- “Since the program started in are not in use containers it their used batteries for recycling. February almost 2.9 tons of bat- • Always use recharge- • Deposit them exclu- -Used batteries should be “We realized that the publicity teries have been deposited, and able batteries (one sively in the recycling deposited in the contain- posts in the city could be adapted the amount is increasing month rechargeable battery is containers established ers with their poles pro- to be used as containers rather than on month,” Ms. Herrera said. “We equivalent to at least 300 for this purpose tected by adhesive tape just for commercials,” Rosalynn now have people calling up to ask disposable batteries) • Some cell phone and For more information call Herrera, coordinator of communi- where their nearest container is • Choose appliances that computer batteries Mexico City’s Depart- cation and training at the Depart- and others asking why their mu- are energy-efficient and now have their own ment of Environmental ment of Environmental Education in nicipality is not part of the pro- do not require batteries recuperation pro- Education on: Mexico City, told Inside México in gram yet.” • Never open, perforate grams – check with (55) 2615-3311 an interview. “And that this would People are asked to cover the or burn batteries the manufacturers give people in the city a viable op- batteries’ poles (the ends) with tion for recycling at least one type masking tape before depositing of waste.” them in the containers to make sure storage center in Naucalpan. From cials like a company such as Coca- According to information distrib- they are isolated and to avoid leaks. there they are transported to a Cola might be able to do.” uted by the Department for Envi- Each container, which has a plant in Irapuato, Guanajuato for “[But] the program is being pro- ronmental Education, the principal capacity for five kilograms of bat- the actual recycling process. moted through information posted components contained in batteries teries, is emptied every 72 hours by There, the batteries are separat- on the containers and on bus stops, -- mercury, cadmium, nickel and Imagenes y Muebles Urbanos, the ed and broken down into their vari- and information postcards are being magnesium -- are considered to be company running the program. They ous parts and 100% of the material distributed to cafes, restaurants toxic because of the harmful effects also make sure the containers are is used in the recycling process. and bookshops, plus we have also they can have both on the environ- not vandalized or covered in graffiti. “Unfortunately, we don’t have put out a few information spots and ment and on people’s health. When they are emptied the the resources to conduct a huge, interviews on the radio,” Ms Her- If exposed to the elements, bat- battery waste is initially taken to a glossy campaign with TV commer- rera said. ❚

[ 28 ] InsideMéxico July 2007

pliego 3 back.indd 28 6/26/07 10:55:28 PM

TO PICK UP YOUR FREE WhereWhere COPY OF

MR

AT MORE THAN 225 POINTS AROUND THE COUNTRY!

Altavista Giornale Caffé • Santa Fe Café Bosques de Las Lo- mas Sante Fe Café Centro Santa Fe Café • Museo de Arte Popular • Museo Nacional de los Fer- rocarriles Mexicanos • Gran Melia Hotel • Hotel Ritz • Fiesta Americana Reforma • Sheraton Centro • Italian Coffee Company • Grand Hotel Ciudad de México Holiday Inn Zócalo Condesa Condesa DF • Libreria Rosario Castellanos • Elodia y Sus Bondades • Pata Negra • St. Patrick’s Pub • Malafama • Agapi Mu • Bistrot Continental • Bistrot Mosaico •Café La Gloria • Capicua • Don Keso • El 10 • Ligaya • Mibong • Orquideas • Parril- lada Uruguaya • Don Asado • Rojo Bistrot • Segundo Paso • Frutos Prohibidos y Otros Placeres • La Buena Tierra •Coffee Shop • El Hijo del Santo • La Esquina del Te • Pic- colo Toscano Café • The Village Café • 5 L-Mento • Artefacto • Colectivo 7 • El Milagrito • Modifi ca • Black Horse • Cinna Bar • El Mitote • El Jamil • La Selva Café • Barracuda Diner Nuvo Sushi • American Legion • Pa- jaros en el Alambre • Hivisa Viajes Coyo- acán Hotel Real del Sur Cuauhtémoc Marquis Reforma • Sheraton Maria Isabel • British Embassy • Japanese Embassy • US Embassy Guadalupe Inn Nacional Financiera • The Ital- ian Coffee Company Héroes de Padiema Camino Real Pedregal Insurgentes The Italian Coffee Company Interlomas Giornale Caffé Jardines del Pe- dregal Santa Fe Café Jardines en la Montaña Hotel Royal Pedre- gal Juárez Mis- sion Reforma Ciudad de Mexico • Biblioteca Benjamin Franklin • Ital- ian Coffee Plaza La Escalera Las Americas Hotel y Cen- tro de Negocios Torre Lindavista • The Ameri- can School Lomas de Chapultepec The American Benevo- lent Society • Santa Fe Café • Coldwell Banker Napoles Hotel Beverly • Hotel Residencial Rochester Navarte • The Italian Coffee Company Palmas Giornale Caffé Parques del Pe- dregal Colegio de Ing- enieros Civiles de México Polanco Hotel Casa Vieja • Hotel Resi- dencial Polanco • Hotel W • JW Marriott Hotel • Centro Educativo Multidisciplinario- UNAM • L’Actualite Internationale • Estetica Polanco • The Break • Adonis • Bellaria • Chez Wok •Como • Entrevinos • Fishers • Izote • La Valenti- na • L’Olivier • Lox • MP • Café Bistro • Non Solo Pasta •Restaurante Spuntino • Thai Gardens •Tori Tori • Villa Maria • Area Bar and Terrace • Bua • Gendarmeria de Don Quintin • Karisma • Cantina Camino Real • Riedel Wine Bar • Arte- mis • Fiesta Americana • Grand Chapultepec • French Embassy • German Embassy • New Zealand Embassy • Prados de la Montana • The Westhill Institute Roma Casa Lamm • Café de Carlo • Casa de la Condesa • La Casona • Alliant University • Kong San Án- gel Bazar del Sábado • San Pedro de los Pinos •Holiday Inn • Trade Center San Rafael Hotel Stella Maris Santa Cruz Atoyac Hotel Royal Plaza • Santa Fe Cámara Mexicano-Alemana de Comercio e Indu- stria • Centro de Investigación y Docencia Económicas • Giornale Caffé • Bistrot Mosaico • Brássica • Cabo Blanco • El Buen Bife • Antonella Bread & Co. • La Selva Café• La Buena Tierra • Ruben’s Hamburgers • Moshi Moshi • The Anglo • Sheraton Suites Santa Fe • San Jeronimo Lídice Pe- dregal Palace • Tabacalera Tacubaya La Selva Café • Radisson Hotel • Flamingos Tlalpan La Selva Café Vista Hermosa Mex- ico City International Air- port • Santa Fe Café • Hilton • Camino Real • Ramada • Fiesta Inn Also in: Puerto Vallarta • Merida • Oaxaca • Monterrey • Puerto Mo- relos • Cancun • Guada- lajara • Cuernavaca • San Miguel de Allende • Tepoztlan • Los Cabos • Ensenada

08IMX_The Guide.indd 29 6/26/07 7:09:38 PM Shari Dawn Rettig (1941-2007)

By Catherine Dunn Photo Courtesy of Gladys Rodríguez

hari was kind, good-heart- launch The Journal as a full-fledged ed and unbelievably toler- daily, Shari founded a news website ant of personality quirks. about Mexico called Mr.News.Mx It made her a kind of “den (www.mrnewsmx.com). mother” as the late Joe When it launched in 1999, people SNash used to describe her, to the lost, in Mexico were asking “What’s a the loony, and the lonesome. banner? What’s a button?,” recalled –Friend Debra Anthony, from Gladys Rodríguez, who was also a blog remembering Shari Dawn Shari’s business associate. Rettig. Although the business never brought commercial success, Shari Her friends knew the Christmas tended it until she entered the hos- party would be at Shari’s house and pital. Radios hummed throughout that she would have the turkey and her house, her ears to the world. She the stuffing ready. In April they culled headlines about her adopted would dye Easter eggs together. They country from the Web. knew she would be available to chat A night owl, Shari’s friends knew online, well into the pre-dawn hours. not to bother her from 9 to 10 pm ev- And she always knew exactly what to ery evening. That hour was set aside say, even if it was to “mind your own for her sister; the two would sign business.” onto messenger and play electronic She was the kind of friend –loyal games of chess, checkers, poker and and fearless– who would take turns billiards. They also rehashed their sleeping in your car to keep it from childhoods, and spent years moving being stolen. through the past until they caught Shari Dawn Rettig, newswoman, up to the present. “We cleared things confidante, straight-shooter, died in up, we talked, we joked, we played,” Mexico City on May 21 after she had said Dianne Brocker, who lives in been admitted to the hospital with a Ft. Worth. “We did everything like lung condition. She was 66. we were 9-years-old again.” She was born and raised in Ft. Since Shari died, decades –worth Worth, Texas where she grew up of friends have emailed her sister with her doting little sister, Dianne. and brother-in-law, written about She went away to Washington, DC her in the newspaper, and on the for college, and, afterwards, took a blog established in her memory, job as a loan teller in a bank, said recalling her patience, her wry her sister, because the building was humor, the sweatpants she wore air-conditioned. around the house. Then in the late 1960’s, or early “She spoke and everybody listened,” said friend Gladys Rodríguez, Dolores Anne, who lives in Ohio, 1970’s, Shari and her pal Dolores “even if she used broken Spanish she got her message through and has wondered who she’ll tell things Anne Smith quit their jobs in Wash- everyone understood.” to now at the end of the day. ington, jumped in a car with their “There are more than a few dogs and took off. They were cruising people who considered her their best the Texas coast after Christmas. It Gladys Rodríguez said. She believed Shari’s career as a journalist friend,” Dolores Anne said. “I don’t was growing cold; dust and ice storms in the Virgin of Guadalupe, and sev- spanned nearly the entire library of know who she considered her best on the Texas panhandle blocked the eral times walked pilgrimages to the English-language publications based friend, but I know she was my best way to California. So they drove Basílica, handing out money to needy in Mexico City. At The News she be- friend.” ❚ south into the Sierra Madres. people she passed along the way. She came a managing editor, and when They had no place they had to be. addressed the city’s idiosyncrasies she left there, she worked at The A memorial service was held for “We were free,” Dolores Anne said. with practicality. For example, she Sun, The Mexico City Times, and Shari Rettig May 24 by the Ameri- Mexico and Shari suited each oth- hung flags out her window to signal then took the helm of El Universal’s can Benevolent Society at Union er. She loved earthquakes, “thought to the gas man and the water man if English section called The Journal. Church. Her ashes will be buried in they were a joyride”, her friend she needed them to stop by. When El Universal scratched plans to East Texas.

[ 30 ] InsideMéxico July 2007

pag. 30-31.indd 30 6/27/07 12:51:00 AM Putting out the News, Part II Up, down, over, and out…

By Jimm Budd

ditor’s Note: For learned that the answers to into one of Mexico’s most return to blandness, taking Bill said. “Try not to take it several months, our crossword puzzles were powerful voices, and now The News with it. too hard.” there have been not printed when they were was ready to do that with Unlike his superiors, Bill The Times died after rumors that The supposed to be and that the The News as well. was unconcerned about our two years. Foolishly, I went News, the for- comic strips were not ap- Thanks to the appearance competition. “We have the personally to announce this Emer English language news- pearing in proper sequence. of The Times, I found myself best comics and the best triumph to the family patri- paper published by Nove- It is no surprise that into named deputy editor. columns,” he told me once. arch Don Romulo O’Farrill. dades, may be relaunched this vacuum, competition A man named Howard “People may buy The Times He was a sharp old man, sometime this year. With this roared forth in the form of Taylor, trim and dapper as to see what it looks like, but always pleasant, and he in mind, we asked one of the the Mexico City Times. Walter Pigeon, taught us they are not going to cancel extended his congratula- paper’s former editors, Jimm The News was a tabloid, how to redesign our pages, their subscriptions with us.” tions. Unlike his son and Budd, to write some reminis- which meant it was easy to emphasizing ample white I suspected they might if The Beteta, however, he had no cences of his time there. His read. The Times appeared space, large photographs Times were delivered earlier. command of English. But first installment appeared the size of a “real” newspa- and snappy headlines. It never was. I understood his Spanish in the May issue of Inside per and it’s appearance had Far greater impact was Meanwhile, my boss was well enough. With the com- México. If you missed it, you a startling effect on our par- made by Jim Oliver, who, as more than happy to delegate petition gone, he could begin can find it on our website: ent company. Ramón Beteta, head of the Grant Advertis- more and more responsibil- trimming our staff. www.insidemex.com. the editor-in-chief and for- ing Agency office in Mexico, ity to me. He would drop by My own downfall came mer X minister, whom few had conducted some sort of the office about midday, then with the rise of Luis Ech- The notables I met were of us ever had seen, called survey. Oliver spoke with the head off to check on his race everria. The assistant press warm in their praise of The us into a meeting to deliver publisher and the publisher’s horses. “If anything comes secretary to the new presi- News. They lauded its com- a motivational speech and son, with the general man- up, knock it down,” he’d say. dent was the first to warn pact size and how, by read- announce that salaries were ager and the editor-in-chief. One midday, Shanahan me we needed to tread care- ing it, they could keep up being increased. The News, he declared, had lingered in his office longer fully with what we printed. with all that was happening Beteta, tall, trim and ath- the potential for becoming than usual. He called me in Young and foolish, I paid in the world. In the 1960s, letic, reportedly had been the most influential daily in and asked that I shut the scant heed. In March, af- there was no satellite televi- on the short list to follow the country. door. He handed me a cigar. ter Echeverria had served sion, much less anything like {Miguel} Aleman into the Bill Shanahan, the editor, “I’m about to start ped- his first 100 days in office, the Internet. For the mono- presidency. He ended up as was the skeptic. He had been dling drugs,” he announced. Junior O’Farrill summoned lingual, our daily was a life- ambassador to Italy instead. around longer than Ramon “All this will soon be me one last time. The presi- line to the outside would. As our editor-in-chief, he was Beteta and was willing to bet yours.” dent’s office, he said quietly, Almost everyone else I clearly – to those who could the middle-aged Beteta was Merck was hiring Bill almost apologetically, had met on my rounds criticized see such things -- Aleman’s just biding his time, keeping Shanahan to be their pub- asked that I be replaced. The News. The biggest com- representative on the paper. in the public eye while wait- lic relations vice president I n 2 0 03 , Novedades plaint was the poor delivery Not that he was any flunky. ing to get back into politics. for Latin America. ceased publication. So did service to subscribers. Also I He had turned Novedades With that, Novedades would “So you’ll be moving up,” The News. ❚

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