México March 2007 You Will Feel at Home

coyoacán Urban Oasis by

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MARCH 2007 mm e e x x p p e e t t s s ii s s s s u u e e dog tales Dogs dine out at the Bow Wow Deli › 10 One animal shelter’s mission to rescue and to educate › 14 Need to travel overseas with your pet? Here’s how › 19

Jonathan heath on Mexico’s economy › 7 // A dvanced frequent flyer tips › 27 Around Coyoacán What’s the strangest food Taste your dog likes Martha to eat? Ortiz 20 Her medium is food. Her inspiration, the world.

Rumbo a... “Sushi – what weirder thing could she eat?” Guadalajara Pulkue, three-year-old Chihua- Travel to hua, and owner Karo Aguilar the big city with 8 a different sense of time.

“Strawberries and cream, and hotcakes with syrup Market Meter and peaches.” Niki, one-and-a-half-year-old French Poodle, and owner Open the door Lili Huerta $1,000,000 pesos apartments in the DF 25

4 Inbox Steals and Deals Editors Letter Dog Days Lingo for Gringos 24 Real Estate Creature Talk CloseUp Oscar Cedillo: “Guayava and bananas.” 5 Invoices Keeping it Real in Roma 12 Arts&Culture Kikin, one-year-old Cocker Span- Ceci Connolly iel-Maltese, and owner Carolina Herrera in Oaxaca Bush and Latin America 26 Transitions Salomón Caballero Glimpses Victor Solis Los Folkloristas sing Mexico’s How Healthy is that Taco on Past the Corner? 7 News and Notes The Fixer A look at rules 14 Cover Story for renters in Mexico x Factor Mexico’s macro- economy by the numbers For Mexican pets, a shelter from the storm 28 The Green Guide And practical advice on Can Mexico go Solar? 9 Inside Out preparing your pet for an G1 CloseUp international move A Xoloitzcuintli breeder 29 Farewells The Guide 22 Taste Marilyn Greenwald “Tacos, but as if a person Coyoacán 10-11 InsideOut The Cava were eating them, with Lorraine Orlandi on the Dog Why a Wine’s Nose Matters 31 The BackPage & The Calendar Café salsa and everything.” Rossana Fuentes-Berain Lex, two-year-old Poodle, and owner Giovanna Villegas

[ ] InsideMéxico March 2007 You will feel at home.

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lthough this was going to be the pets issue, things quickly went to Friend calls. A the dogs… The poor dog, in life the firmest friend/ In Mexico City you’re more likely to see The first to welcome, foremost to defend/ dogs steeled against the cold – or at least Friend Whose honest heart is still the master’s own/ their owners’ idea of cold – wrapped in chic Who labours, fights, lives, breathes/for him alone/ sweaters that would make Carolina Herrera Unhonour’d falls, unnoticed all his worth/ (see pg. 12) proud. We even saw one dog, Denied in heaven the soul he held on earth / whose owners could not afford a fashionable “Let’s get While man, vain insect hopes to be forgiven / doggie top coat, dressed in a tattered, but together.” And claims himself a sole exclusive heaven. somehow quite literary, black turtleneck. The bonding of human with dog always You –Lord Byron, inscription on the gravestone has the feeling of inevitability…of all the of his Newfoundland dog, 1808 doorways in all the world, this furry love All you cat, ferret, gerbil, rabbit, horse and walked into yours. So it was with Birdie finch lovers out there, be patient, we’ll re- and Beck, who last month brought their “Cool!” turn to the theme. For now, send us your puppy chaos from the parking lot down the Friend favorite animal stories and we’ll begin by street full-tilt into our lives. And we’ll never posting some of them at in- forget how one friend of ours found his dog. sidemex.com. A stray sidled up to him during lunch at a “Where do And what about “man’s restaurant in Puerto Escondido, rested his (and woman’s) best friend”? chin on our friend’s thigh, and gently gazed you want The phrase belies the com- into the friend’s eyes. That was two years to meet?” You plexity of our relationship ago. Now Brando makes the annual round with our canine compan- trip to Mexico in the winter and back to ions. Or maybe, it’s that the Maine in the spring with parents and four best friendships aren’t the legged brother. “…?” simplest of relationships. From Tara FitzGerald’s cover story on The one between humans the shelter Presencia Animal, to Lorraine and dogs has its ups and downs, as well Orlandi’s afternoon at a dog birthday party to as moments that can be are hilarious, poi- Quade Hermann’s interview with a breeder gnant, gruesome, ridiculous, and spiritual of Xoloitzcuintli (the ancient breed thought by (think Amores Perros). the Aztecs to accompany their masters to the Many foreigners have a negative view of a netherworld) we take a curious, wet-nosed We suggest you sign dog’s life in Mexico. And in fact, the number look at our closest companions, who some- up for Inside México’s was somewhere north of one hundred when how, through their wise and wacky ways we stopped counting the bodies of dogs who’d teach us what it means to be more human. weekly e-mail. ventured unfortunately close to the Mexican road. On the other hand, it’s just as common Woof, woof! THE TiP will help to see a dog with its owner or family, eating, playing and conviviendo. Aran, Margot, Birdie and Beck Shetterly you avoid awkward situations like the one represented above. Once a week Distribution 40, 000 Aran Shetterly (paper and online) we’ll recommend editor -in-chief [email protected] Printed by SPI: Servicios something fun, tasty, NUMBER 3 • febrUARY 2007 Profesionales de Impresión, S.A. de C.V. Margot Lee Shetterly advertising Derechos reservados © Editorial Manda S.A. de C.V., cool, or interesting. managing editor Emilio Deheza Cordoba 206A #4, Colonia Roma, C.P. 06700, México creative consultant [email protected] Catherine Dunn D.F., México 2007. Se prohíbe la reproducción, total art & photography o parcial, del contenido de esta publicación, así como méxico city editor Alejandro Xolalpa contributors también se prohíbe cualquier utilización pública del commercial director Luz Montero Víctor Solís, Quade contenido, como por ejemplo, actos de distribución, staff photographer Hermann, Erick Montero, Carlos Xolalpa, Sales transformación y comunicación pública (incluyendo la Editorial Contributors Patricia Cerezo transmisión pública). Griselda Juarez, Sales Carlo Cibo, Ceci Connolly, design Certificado de reservas al uso exclusivo del título: 04- Sign up now! Georgina del Angel, Tara Marcela Méndez in monterrey: Olivia Deheza 2006-111512075500-102. Fitzgerald , Rossana Fuentes- Ana Ma. Prado [email protected] Certificado de licitud de título y de contenido: en Berain, Mario González- Emilio Deheza diseño Román, Maya Harris, Quade Maya Harris trámite. Los artículos aquí contenidos reflejan única- Send us an e-mail: legal counsel mente la postura de su respectivo autor, y no necesari- Hermann, Beatriz Mancebo, pr coordinator, méxico amente la de Editorial Manda S.A. de C.V., por lo que Lorraine Orlandi, Gibran Raya Luis Fernando González [email protected] [email protected] Nieves for Solorzano, Carvajal, dicha empresa no se responsabiliza por lo afirmado por Jamie Rosen, Michelle M. John Boit, Melwood Global, us Stroud González, Pérez-Correa, s.c. los respectivos autores aquí publicados.

[ ] InsideMéxico March 2007 [email protected] Víctor Solís Is Bush’s trip an opportunity for Latin America? Ceci Connolly

President Bush arrives in Latin America out of fashion, are equally eager to prove March 8 for a six-day swing that cul- they can lead. And immigration reform minates with meetings in Mexico with appears to be one of the few subjects where President Felipe Calderon. they and Bush are more simpatico than The reason for the trip, according to the he and Republican lawmakers. It isn’t dif- White House, is “to underscore the commit- ficult to envision a scenario in which House ment of the United States to the Western Speaker Nancy Pelosi and Senate Major- Hemisphere and…highlight our common ity Leader Harry Reid—both border state agenda.” Democrats—craft a compromise with Bush My first thought was, why bother? Six the Texan. years after Bush and his companero Vi- Homeland Security Secretary Michael cente Fox chummed it up on the ranch, Chertoff signaled the administration’s open- the most notable changes in U.S. policy ness in his mid-February visit to Mexico. have been exactly the sorts of things Mexi- “Every time a Border Patrol officer is cans most dislike. Last year, Bush signed transporting a load of future housekeepers into law authorization for a 700-mile fence and landscapers to some place to be re- along the border and last month raised ap- turned, he’s not looking for drug dealers or plication fees for legal immigration, in some drug loads,” he said. “So to me, total immi- cases by as much as 80 percent. gration reform that addresses economic mi- Aside from his quick blow through Cancun grants is actually an enforcement enabler a year ago, Bush’s last trip to Latin America because it lets us focus more on the people was in November 2005. And that is perhaps that we don’t want in the country under best remembered for the raucous anti-U.S. any circumstances, namely the criminals protests in Argentina and the taunts of Ven- and the dangerous folks.” ezuelan President Hugo Chavez. Bush’s visit should also encourage Today, the lame duck president is as Calderon and other more democratical- unpopular throughout Latin America as ly-oriented leaders in the region to act as Inside México Listens In elsewhere, largely because of the ongoing checks against the Chavez, whose clout has war in Iraq. In tracking polls conducted for only grown in recent months. The planned the BBC, approval for the United States stop in tiny Uruguay is meant to convey “”There are few matters so important to the has steadily declined, from 40 percent sup- that Bush understands how difficult it can future of this country....we are going to put into port in 2005 to 29 percent at the start of be to stand up to the charismatic, oil-rich place the same kind of diplomatic and lobbying 2007. The numbers are even more dismal leftist. effort that we did in the early 1990s when in this region—12 percent in Mexico and 13 The trip also includes visits to econom- NAFTA was being decided.” percent in Argentina, says MUND Ameri- ic heavyweight Brazil, Colombia, which is - Arturo Sarukhan, Mexico’s ambassador to the US, refer- cas president Dan Lund, who conducted heavily reliant on U.S. dollars to fight ring to efforts to get immigration reform in the United States. the Mexico survey. narco-trafficking, and Guatemala, which Ever since its 1847 surrender in the produces a large number of migrants. U.S.-Mexican War, Mexico has viewed any But Chavez allies in Argentina, Bolivia “This country is already I am looking to take a foreign intervention by the United States and Ecuador are being passed over, as among the top three vacation this March break, warily, Lund told me. is Daniel Ortega, the former Sandinista markets for armoring but under no circumstances “The more dangerous the U.S. is, or dictator who recently returned to power in North and South will I choose a Mexican seems to be, the more nervous you feel sit- in Nicaragua. America. Armored cars destination. I refuse to ting south of the border,” he said. “The Citing what the Bush administration are here to stay.” support the tourism industry United States in violent warfare—even if views as the “radical and irresponsible - Esteban Hernández, head of a country that fails to it’s on the other side of the world—that populism” of Chavez, diplomat R. Nicholas of Mexico’s association of adequately address unsolved echo is there in Latin America.” Burns promised late last year that “the armored vehicle produc- violent crime involving Yet in the upside down world of politics, U.S. intends to make the goal of invigorat- ers, on projected growth in citizens of my country. Bush’s visit may represent an unexpected ing ties with Latin America as a major his industry. from Reuters. - Kathryn (from the CBC web- opportunity for U.S. allies in the region to priority.” com site) Mississauga, Ontario make gains. That could be good news for America’s Like every president entering the sun- neighbors to the south. Besides, for Bush, “Mexico City is a complicated place to fly.[T]here are set of his career, Bush is thinking legacy it will be good to get out of Dodge, errr, I helicopters from news companies, TV stations, all kinds of and desperately searching for something mean Washington. executive choppers. There is a lot of traffic.” to plunk down in the history books besides -Eduardo Trujillo, a helicopter pilot. the bloody Iraq story. Ceci Connolly is a reformed political The Democrats now in charge of Con- reporter, on a leave of absence gress, keenly aware that obstructionists are from the Washington Post. Express yourself: [email protected]

March 2007 InsideMéxico [ ] SOLCARGO: Taking legal representation Monterrey March 11: During the Mexican-Ameri- Elevation: 1740 feet Daylight Saving can war of 1846–48, recent above sea level American immigrants were conscripted into the Regular in México March Average Hi/Low Time México Army and sent to fight the Temp: 81 F/ 58 F Whoah!!! In March? Just when Mexicans. When some of these to a higher level March Average Precipi- you thought you knew what men – mostly Irish – realized tation: 0.8 inches time it was back home, you’ve they were at war with a Catholic Latitude & Longitude: got to adjust again. Mexico’s country on behalf of an invading 25.40 N, 100.18 W daylight saving time still falls Protestant army, they switched Full Moon: March 3. on the first Sunday in April, so sides and offered their services Also, full lunar eclipse expect a few weeks of confu- to the Mexican General, Mejia. March 3-4 sion. Why the change? Some By all accounts St. Patrick’s say DST saves the US 1% a day Battalion, numbering as many March 2 on energy consumption. Add an as 800, fought valiantly. The extra 30 days and you are talking Americans hung the men as Theodor Seuss about some serious conserva- traitors. To Mexicans they are Geisel tion. This isn’t a new scheme. the Irish Martyrs. Better known as Dr. Seuss, was Benjamin Franklin proposed the born on this day in 1904. idea in 1784 in an article entitled, March 21. “Have no fear, little fish,” said “The Economical Project of the Cat in the Hat. “These Diminishing the Cost of Light.” Benito Juarez’s Solorzano, Carvajal, González y Things are good Things.” birthday Pérez-Correa “SOLCARGO” is a And he gave them a pat. “They March 13, 1781 Born in the remote Oaxaca highly respected and well are tame. Oh, so tame! They Discovery of Uranus. Please… town of Guelatao in 1806, Juarez have come here to play. this is serious. William Her- learned Spanish when he was connected Mexican law firm They will give you some fun / schel, a German musician living nine and became president of with offices in México City On this wet, wet, wet day.” in England, glimpsed the planet Mexico in 1858. Some say he and Los Cabos. and named it after King George was Mexico’s greatest Presi- March 7 III of England. It became the dent, a man of laws. Revision- Guam Discovery seventh known member of our ists suggest his accomplish- Solcargo is a comprehensive law solar system. The current name ments have been overrated for Day came into use in 1850. In Greek the sake of cohesion between firm that can service all of our is celebrated on the first Mon- mythology, Uranus is the father criollos, mestizos and indigenos clients personal and business day in March. It marks the day of Saturn. Its diameter is 32,190 (Juarez was a Zapotec). Regard- needs The firm is divided into the Ferdinand Magellan landed on miles, compared to Earth’s less, his personal story is one of following main practice areas: the island in 1521. The discovery mere 7,973 miles. the most remarkable in the his- saved the lives of the sick and tory of the Americas. He said, • Corporate, Foreign Investment starving crew. March 14, 1879 “Among individuals, as among & Finance Albert Einstein’s birthday. nations, respect for rights be- March 8: Some quotes from the genius: yond one’s own is peace.” • Immigration “The important thing is not • Intellectual Property-Entertainment International to stop questioning.” “Any March 24. Law Women’s Day intelligent fool can make things Here today, gone • Litigation & Dispute Resolution, The first National Women’s bigger, more complex, and Bankruptcy Day was organized in the United more violent. It takes a touch of tomorrow States in 1909. International genius -- and a lot of cour- The world’s most famous ma- • Real Estate, Resort & Hospitality Women’s Day was observed age -- to move in the opposite gician and escape artist, Harry • Enviromental & Land Use in Denmark, Germany, Austria direction.” “Science without re- Houdini, was born on this day in • Tax & Administrative Law and Switzerland on March 19, ligion is lame. Religion without 1874. A new biography suggests 1911, when more then one mil- science is blind.” that his public profession was a lion men and woman marched cover for his covert role as a spy for women’s rights. This year’s March 17 for both England and the United Torre Mural theme: ‘Ending impunity for St. Patrick’s Day. States. Believe it…or not? Av. Insurgentes Sur 1605 violence against women’ Piso 12, suite 3 Ye’ll come and find the place where San José Insurgentes I am lying. And kneel and say an Ave México D.F. 03900 there for me. –from danny boy

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Mr. Heath is one of the most respected ethanol goes up and then the price of * all monetary values in USD macroeconomists in the country. sugar also goes up. These are all joint markets. People say, “What?! Why is $213.4 Billion worth of corn going up?” But it’s all linked. goods exported by Mexico in INSIDE MEXICO: Recent reports pre- If our grandfathers had a factory, IM: How important do you think the 2005 dict that by 2050 Mexico’s economy they could do the same thing every day influx of American and Canadian retir- Of 2005 exports could be the world’s sixth largest. What for thirty or forty years. That’s an obso- ees will be to Mexico? 87.6% went to the US do you think? lete formula now. JH:I was in Panama City a few JONATHAN HEATH: Well, there is no IM: In terms of economic strategy months ago and there were four resi- 1.8% Of 2005 exports went simple answer. Recently I was reviewing does Mexico have to choose between an dential high rises, each over 100 sto- to Canada a report I gave in 1986. Back then we educated work force and cheap labor? ries. Where are these people coming were at the peak of the hyperinflation. JH: The ideal labor force would be from? Retired couples from the US $223.7 Billion worth of The 80s was a no-growth decade. We call like Germany’s or Switzerland’s. Those and Europe, who’ve saved money all goods imported by Mexico in it the lost decade. The debt burden was are the most productive economies in their lives, and now they’re looking for 2005 high. People were crying that there was the world. If you can have high produc- a cheaper place to retire, and a higher no hope. It was a doomsday scenario. tivity and better wages, it’s a win-win. standard of living. They’re looking for 55.1% Of 2005 imports Today, inflation is at 4 percent. Back Cheap labor means competing with countries like Panama and Mexico. came from the US then inflation was over 100 percent and China. I would never compete with But Mexico is probably losing out. Of 2005 imports the margin of error was 10 percent! China. The average Chinese laborer is We’re not giving what these other 7.1% came from China Now we’re arguing about half-a-percent screwed! The wage differential between places are giving. We’re not as flexible. margin of error. Who cares!? China and Mexico is ten-to-one. Imagine We need to work hard to attract these 47 Approximate number of Mexican economic history is one of if we were to pay Mexican workers one retirees, because at the end of the day, countries with which Mexico external debt and chaos. The few times tenth of what they’re earning now. everyone benefits. has free-trade agreements we’ve had low levels of external debt We do have one advantage over IM:What about NAFTA? Has it been we’ve been able to make real economic China: we are close to the US and can good, bad or indifferent for the Mexican $6,770 2005 average per progress and achieve economic stability. deliver just-in-time production in a way economy? capita income If you don’t have macroeconomic sta- they can’t. JH:The best thing about NAFTA is bility, you can’t address poverty, unequal IM:What about developing tourism it gave Mexico the ability to produce its 20% Of the population income distribution, or employment. as a linchpin in the Mexican economy? own foreign exchange, and made us a earns 55 percent of the income IM: Where should Mexico focus for JH: They have been talking about more export-oriented economy. When World rank of Mexico for economic success? tourism as the hope of the Mexican you produce your own foreign exchange, 1 production of avocadoes, JH: What’s the way forward? Well, I economy for 30 years, since they built you reduce your debt load. If you start- onions, limes, lemons and saf- think we need a very flexible economy. Cancun back in the 1970s. Well, Can- ed with these expectations, NAFTA has flower seeds If you’re not continuously investing in cun has one of the highest concentra- been a success. If you thought NAFTA technology you’re falling behind. tions of hotel rooms anywhere, but it was going to solve poverty, well, then 4% The contribution of We are living in a competitive global hasn’t helped. We need to sit back and it’s a failure. agriculture to GDP economy. It’s not good enough to just assess it. Was tourism the wrong sec- But what NAFTA did do was cement grow. Right now, if China is growing at tor? Or was it the right sector but we macroeconomic stability. Now we can 27.9% Of rural Mexicans 200-300 kilometers an hour and we’re don’t know how to do it? focus on solving the other problems. An lived in poverty in 2004 moving at 30-40 KM/H, it seems we’re IM:What about alternative fuels? absence of macroeconomic stability is doing great. But we’re actually losing JH: We should develop the potential, like driving at night with no lights. You $89 Billion of US capital ground. but look at ethanol. Corn, sugar and can’t see where you’re going. NAFTA invested in Mexico between gave us lights. Now we can concentrate 1999 and 2006 on driving. Jonathan Heath received a degree in Economics at Anahuac University in Mexico City. Billion invested by Spain IM: What economy is a good example $16 He did graduate work at the University of Pennsylvania before starting his professional career in Mexico between 1999 and for Mexico? in the Ministry of Budget and Planning (SPP). Later he joined Wharton Econometric Forecast- 2006 ing Associates in 1983, as Director of the Mexican Project. There, he developed a macroecono- JH:Chile. Without a doubt they are metric model of the Mexican economy. Before joining HSBC, he started and ran an economic the regional example to follow. They $62 Million invested by consulting network. He writes a regular column for Reforma. are a success story no matter how you China in Mexico between 1999 look at it. and 2006 $18 Billion remitted annually Sign up for to the country by Mexicans home delivery living abroad [email protected] Sources: World Bank, CIA Factbook, Wiki- in the D.F. pedia, Mexican Economic Secretariat March 2007 free InsideMéxico [ ] How to get there By car: Leave Mexico City via the Toluca highway (57D) and guadalajara follow the signs. Toll road costs $554 pesos and takes 6 hours. By bus: Near-hourly departures from morning until midnight from Mexico City’s northern bus station. Fare is $410 pesos. Book online www.estrellablanca.com.mx By air: Daily flights on Aero- Mexico and Aerolineas Azteca from Mexico City, from usd $196 RT. Fares and booking at www.travelocity.com worth seeing Plaza de Armas Arrive early for a spot around the bandstand and enjoy free concerts from local groups. Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays at 6:30 p.m.

Arena Charros Av Doctor R Michel 577, Col. San Carlos Tel: 3619.0315 See cowboys bust broncs and twirl their lassos. Tournaments, escar- amuzas, music. Sundays at noon.

Mercado Libertad (also known as San Juan de Dios Market) Av Javier Mina and Calz. Inde- pendencia Have a taco with handmade tor- Mexico’s Heartland tillas in the food fair and swing by the bruja stalls on the third level. The Text and Photos by Quade Hermann patrol on mountain bikes. Every taxista is a vol- Open seven days a week untary guide, offering tips and sharing stories biggest hursday night. Plaza de Armas. The with a wink and a smile. Feel free to practice Plaza de Toros small pale stone of the cathedral glows your Spanish with them. One even had a Span- Nuevo Progresso warm orange in the setting sun. ish–English dictionary, just to be sure we were Pirineos 1930, Col. Monumental town in Conversations along the benches in talking about the same thing. An impressive ring for witnessing the plaza are set to the low, sweet If you’re a cowgirl at heart, this is the definite- the grand tradition of bullfighting. Mexico Tmusic of violins and trumpets. ly the town for you. The state of Jalisco is consid- Regular schedule from October offers Some folks tap their ered to be the home of the until spring, otherwise check toes, as they listen to the charreria –rodeo – which Ticketmaster for dates. something band play favorites in the was decreed Mexico’s na- colonial–era bandstand. tional sport in 1880. Plaza de los Mariachis for Others watch toddlers Every rodeo features Close to the intersection of Av Ja- everyone run through flocks of coo- ten events and in addi- vier Mina and Calz. Independencia ing pigeons, scattering tion to being a measure Raise a glass in tribute to the them into clouds that lift, of a cowboy’s skill, each is birthplace of mariachi music and circle the plaza – once, At 4.1 million people, its own ritualized grand admire the statues along the top twice – and settle again. Guadalajara is Mexico’s pageant. There are many of the buildings. Plenty of places Over the childrens’ de- second largest metropoli- rules for ‘authentic’ char- for a beer and a serenade. lighted laughter you can tan areas. Residents of the ros, right down to the out- hear the rustle of feathers, city, founded on January 5, fits they wear. Shirts, for Chivas Training Centre wings beating the air. 1532, are known as “tapatios”. example, must be light– (known as Valle Verde) It’s the kind of serenity coloured, and the buttons Watch this year’s hot young play- you don’t often find in the made of bone. ers show their stuff. The address heated chaos of a big Mexican city. There are experts on hand to coach the as- isn’t public but this Chivas coun- But that’s the thing about Guadalajara. It piring cowboy. Visit El Charro, on the corner try-- most taxi drivers will know manages to offer a traveler all the urban de- of Juarez and Molina in the centro historico. how to get you there. Training lights you expect from a city of four million, They have traditional outfits, as well as more sessions throughout the week, with few of the distresses. American–style boots, buckles and hats. You but always the morning of the day Traffic moves efficiently. Shops are plentiful, can’t miss it; there’s a life size plastic horse in before a game. Check www.chivas. and open every day. The streets are clean and the doorway. com.mx for details. the sidewalks unclogged by ambulantes. Police The closet mariachi can also get outfitted

[ ] InsideMéxico March 2007 Children chase pigeons in the Plaza de Armas

This fountain makes a beautiful bike rack

here. The purple velveteen women’s traje with gold boto- nadura got me fantasizing about starting my own band. And the sombreros are to die for. Ancient Dogs If the prices are too high in this famous shop (or the ones nearby) just stroll down Juarez to the awe–inspir- ing Mercado Libertad where you will find everything you Breeding Mexican history need – including the guitar – at a fraction of the price. Strolling comes naturally in Guadalajara’s centro historico because it’s laid out in a series of old plazas by Quade Hermann/Photo by Luz Montero “It’s our nation’s breed,” says Giménez proudly. connected by pedestrian–only streets. Admire the old His father started breeding the dogs more than 40 churches, modern art, and beautifully restored colonial– A woman looks once at the small, pink-skinned, years ago. “My father’s a patriot, a man very inter- era buildings, then take a rest on a bench by a gushing hairless dog, and then looks again. Fidel Giménez ested in Mexican culture and everything Mexican,” fountain and watch the tapatios go by. smiles. He’s used to double, even triple, takes. In a he explains. “And it’s the same way with me.” You won’t need a guidebook to find your way from sunny park full of golden-haired retrievers and fluffy When Giménez’s father started breeding Sholos plaza to plaza, though one will help you identify the spaniels, his xoloitzcuintli (pronounced sho-lo-itz- in the late 1960s there were just a few hundred many points of historical interest. CWINT-leh) stands out. left in the world. The remaining dogs were kept by Be sure to enjoy all the beauty along the way, but don’t “The first time you see them maybe you don’t Mexican nationalists, artists and intellectuals, and miss out on a few important somber moments. know what to think,” he chuckles. “You don’t know in isolated villages in the Sierras where the Aztec In the Callejon del Diablo, the devil’s alley, you can if they’re pretty or ugly or what.” nobility had fled to escape the conquest, taking their tour the mansion that was the seat of the Holy Spanish Not hard to see why Sholos, as they’re called, Sholos with them. Inquisition in the region. might be considered ugly. Small-boned and delicate, Now in a kennel outside Mexico City, Giménez Or step into the Catedral Metropolitana, which is they have large bat-like ears, narrow faces, and long and his family breed the dogs carefully, working almost as old as the city itself, and join the dumbstruck bony tails. Many are completely bald, but if they do hard to maintain the ancient characteristics. They crowd around the glass coffin of the Incorruptible Saint have any hair it’s on their toes, the end of their tails, are among the handful of committed breeders who Innocence. She was murdered by her father for con- and the tops of their heads. Because they have no have brought Sholos back from near extinction, to a verting to Catholicism, and the child–size doll has the fur, their bodies are hot to the touch. worldwide population of 5,000. blackened relics of her hands (in lace gloves) beside a 7 months-old Cualli (Giménez gives all his dogs “Ten or 15 years ago it was very rare to have container of her blood. Nahuatl names) doesn’t shy away when I run my somebody asking for a puppy,” says Giménez. “Now When you’ve had enough of relics and incense, catch a hand over her soft skin. They’re smart dogs, says I get inquiries every day, from Mexico and also from little live entertainment and Guadalajara’s futbol fever. Giménez, loyal, and very affectionate. Cualli gives different countries.” He’s sent dogs as far afield as With three teams, Chivas, Atlas and Tecos there’s a lot my calf a good sniff, then curls around it, eyeing the Finland and Israel. And last year, one of his dogs was to be feverish about. So skip the museums and churches, bigger, hairier dogs trotting past. a champion at the World Dog Show in Poland. and head out to the Chivas training center. Cualli looks exactly like her ancestors did some Giménez puppies start at $1000 USD, but he At this peaceful suburban enclave you can stand 3,500 years ago. Sholos were first raised by the Az- takes pains to point out that his family is not getting alongside hardcore fans to watch El Bofo chase a ball tecs for companionship, comfort, and, according to rich; raising Sholos is not a business for them, but a around the cancha. archeologists, food. They also played a crucial role passion. “You just have to love these dogs,” he says, Afterwards, try to get your jersey autographed – a in religion, believed to have the ability to guide their bending down to give Cualli an affectionate pat. special souvenir from Guadalajara that few others will owners safely across the great river and into Mictlán, “Once you get one you most likely won’t have own have. (see sidebar) ❚ the afterlife. any other breed again.”

March 2007 InsideMéxico [ ] Canine

Th is upsca Cle Colohnia Romaic eatery has gone to the dogs

by Lorraine Orlandi your pedigree, the rules apply: no leash, Photos by Luz Montero no service. Fighting and excessive bark- ing are prohibited. izashi peers down his re- Mexican society is changing, and that gal, wet nose as the cam- is true for dogs as well. If Birthday pooch era bulb flashes. Today the Hizashi exemplifies a class of canine that champion Siberian Hus- is increasingly popular here, then his ky is starring in his own master, 22-year-old Adriana Alvarez, Hbirthday celebration, a classy production represents a new breed of pet owner. at a small, swank cafe on an gentrifying Especially in a nation where dogs have block in Roma Norte. traditionally subsisted on leftover torti- Hizashi conducts himself with a dig- llas. Once a week, Hizashi eats raw tuna nity befitting his Old World bloodline … or salmon with his dry croquettes. Make a wish: Hizashi savors his birthday cake. until the cake arrives. It is shaped like Alvarez, a university student in graph- a giant dog bone, and the ostrich liver ic design, made place cards for Hizashi’s the freshness and quality of the food she biscuit on top sends Hizashi’s practiced party guests. And there was the $150 serves. Bow-Wow Deli. poise flying out the window. He shoves peso lamb and vegetable cake. Seems In a crowded city brimming with Located at Medel- his face into the mashed potato and like a lot of luxury for a dog, but Alvarez neighborhood eateries, the Bow-Wow lin #40-A, Colonia lamb’s liver icing. has no doubt her pet is worth it. may be the only one where a man’s best Roma. Tel: (55) 5208- Woof. “He helps keep me in contact with friend is not just tolerated but honored. 4171; Web: www. Welcome to the Bow-Wow Deli. People nature, with my equilibrium,” she says, “For me it’s very gratifying to serve bowwowdeli.com; are warmly accepted here, but dogs are her dark sweater bristling with white dogs as if they were people,” says Ivan email: info@bow- catered to with love. Inspired by similar dog hair. “This city is stressful. I brush Galindo, 20, who worked as a Bow-Wow wowdeli.com Open establishments in Japan, the Bow-Wow him, we play, and I forget everything. waiter until starting veterinary school in Monday through may be the surest sign yet that this de- We are very good friends.” January. “It shows they’re appreciated.” Friday, 9:30am- veloping nation of more than 100 million Bow-Wow owner Nikai moved here Until recently, Nikai saw little de- 8:00pm, Saturday people (and countless dogs) has one paw six years ago with her husband, a Mexi- mand in Mexico for an establishment 9:30am-3:30pm, firmly in the First World. can chef (who cooks for humans) whom like hers. But since she opened the ca- closed Sunday The decor is understated chic, with a she met while working and studying in fe in September customers have, well, whiff of Paris Hilton. Whimsical displays New York. lapped it up. hold $1000 peso hand-woven collars im- They adopted a skittish African grey- “In the past couple of years I see ported from Germany and rhinestone- hound with a sensitive stomach and peoples’ customs toward dogs changing covered leash grips. The menu offers Nikai began cooking for him. She re- drastically,” she says. gourmet coffee, green tea and, for four- searched dog nutrition on the internet Still, she is not insensitive to the no- legged foodies, those homemade ostrich and bought books on the subject. tion that her shop reeks of First World liver biscuits. “It’s the same thing as when you have decadence. Dog treats sell for about $50 On a typical afternoon some patrons your first baby; you become very sensi- pesos per bag, a few cents more than the smoke and gossip and sip lattes. Others tive to food,” she says. average daily minimum wage in Mexico pant and drool and lick the floor. All are On his birthday she baked her dog a City. But Nikai aims to perform a service valued customers for owner Miki Nikai, a cake. Then she started baking them for for dogs and their devoted masters. 36-year-old dog lover from Nara, Japan. her friends’ dogs. Soon she was making “Sometimes I feel so guilty. In Mexico “I want people without doggies, people them to order. She uses flour, egg and there are people who cannot afford food,” with doggies, all to share a nice atmo- pureed liver for flavor. No milk, sugar she says. “But at the same time, there are sphere,” says Nikai, who greets all cus- or chocolate, all of which are tough on people like me who are not rich, but they tomers with a shy smile, and sometimes canine digestive tracts. Following her want to do something special for their dog- a scratch behind the ears. But no matter chef-husband’s lead, Nikai is strict about gie, even if it is just one day a year.” ❚

[ 10 ] InsideMéxico March 2007 Animal mania

Bag Check Go gold Anda como burro Carry your stuff in style Handbag en primavera: Com- $1100 pesos pares someone to a this spring Manola donkey with strong, Álvaro Obregón springtime reproduction Photos by Luz Montero 185, Col. Roma needs. 5208 8290 Habla como perico: A person who talks too Sinaloa Satchel much is like a prattling (Cadillacs sold sepa- parrot. rately) Backpack Basket A backpack? A basket? It’s both! $520 pesos $360 pesos Camarón que se By Tres Tetas duerme, se lo lleva At: Kong By Oqram Diseño www.oqramdesign.com la corriente: The Colima 143, Col. Roma shrimp that sleeps is carried 1054 6094 Dime Álvaro Obregón 185-B away by the current. A per- Colonia Roma son who gets distracted won’t end up where he wants to go.

Cocktail Más vale pájaro Party Chic $1542 pesos en mano que cien Manola volando: A bird in the Álvaro Obregón 185, hand is worth more than Col. Roma 100 in the air. A twist on 5208 8290 the common, English- language expression.

Hijo de tigre, pin- tito: The son of a tiger is the same. Like father, like Feed your pockets son. These wallets made from recycled snack wrappers Con un ojo al gato Floral Fun will keep your money y otro al garabato: Purse: $400 pesos toasty and tasty One eye on the cat and Wallet: $195 pesos Large: $70 pesos another on the meat hook. By Sensacional Small: $35 pesos Keeping an eye on two www.sensacional.com.mx By bagabunda things at once. At: Kong At: Kong Colima 143, Col. Roma Colima 143, Col. Roma Pata de perro: Liter- 1054 6094 1054 6094 ally, dog foot. Someone who roams or wanders.

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cintillo livtopia.indd 1 21/2/07 23:34:35 March 2007 InsideMéxico [ 11 ] Artisans’ Mecca Hosts higH AS ION FDesigner CAROLINhA HERRERA takes a turn on Oaxaca’s cobbled streets

By Margot Lee Shetterly

arch in Oaxaca is warm, the skies sharp blue like glacier ice. Blooming jacaranda trees bathe this southern city, a beehive nestled in the Sierra NMorte mountains, in a purple mist. A year ago, Venezuelan fashion designer Carolina Herrera brought her understated el- egance to Mexico, first to Mexico City to open one of her signature CH boutiques (the first in Latin American) then to Oaxaca, for Moda Mexico International, a two-day fashion spec- tacle that took over the former convent Santo Domingo and transformed that icon of the Oaxacan patrimony into a runway. The simmering political situation was still more than two months from erupting into direct confrontation, and the city buzzed about, bartering for the hard-to-come-by tickets, gossiping about the celebrities who would or would not be making an appearance (“I hear erezo

Brad Pitt’s flying in today!” “Is that Naomi C Campbell there on the corner?”). Barriers

around the massive bronze-hued building atricia P by

kept curious locals at bay, then parted just wide enough to let in the svelte, the mini-

skirted, those wearing wraparound sunglass- photos es or fabulous exotic-pelt boots. Herrera’s models take to the runway in a collection inspired by 18th century Viennese prints. Into the middle of the frenzy walked Caro- lina Herrera, timeless and gracious in a white Venezuelan-born Herrera is one of the and children in tow. And though most would suit. Her first time to Oaxaca, Herrera spent fashion elite, a designer whose classic style scratch their heads looking for links be- the day before the event perusing the pan- has earned her financial success, the respect tween the wealthy woman whose business oply of textiles found in the local markets of her peers, and loyal clients. The interna- is based on an image of effortless luxury and lunching with artist Francisco Toledo tional society girl was late to entrepreneur- and the daily lives of many of the women in (“He’s a very attractive man…such wonderful ship. At 40, she left Caracas for New York Mexico’s second poorest state, Herrera begs hands.”) to make a go of the fashion biz, her husband to differ.

[ 12 ] InsideMéxico March 2007 “I was not supposed to have talent,” she says. “When I started this business, they Los Folkloristas thought it was a whim, that I’d never last. Well I showed them.” “People look at an indigenous woman from Singing Mexico’s Oaxaca, a poor woman, and they make a judgment and write her off. They don’t con- sider the talent that might lie beyond those past preconceptions.” by Beatriz Mancebo Herrera has a clear point of view on her work and her profession. “The role of fashion exicans have a long, richly textured, and is to please the eye, it is not intellectual.” Msometimes turbulent, history. Along the Does fashion matter, then? way, some of that history was set to music. “Of course fashion matters. Fashion is Mexican musica folklorica; stories of love lost for everyday. It brings us beauty. Fashion and found, adventure, conflict, sacrifice and improves civilizations.” times gone by. The weekend’s crowd is overwhelmingly Los Folkloristas was founded in 1966 by chilango, a slice of Mexico City society air- people passionate about preserving and lifted and transported en masse to Oaxaca. In recording the traditional music of Mexico fact, there was quite a brouhaha over how few and Latin America. From the beginning, they Oaxacans—guests, press, even local design- have worked hard to be faithful to the original ers—received invitations. Herrera, when told sound of the old songs; they play instruments of the situation, was surprised. authentic to the time period and place of the “I wasn’t involved in the planning of the music’s origin. In each concert you will hear event,” said Herrera, “and I certainly don’t as many as 70 instruments, collected from support that. Oaxaca has offered up its re- all over the region, some from very remote sources and welcomed us here, and of course places. AS ION Oaxacans should be allowed to enjoy this.” Folkloric music has been handed down h At night, stage lights inside Santo Do- through the generations by oral tradition; there mingo painted the colors of the sunset on are few written scores. Los Folkloristas reper- the convent walls. A demimonde of celeb- toire includes everything from a pre-Hispanic rities, stylists and fashionistas gives in- Mayan lullaby to Son Jarocho. During a single terviews and mugs for cameras. Beautiful concert, you will be treated to as many as 20 Oaxacan girls dressed in brightly colored different types of music. traditional dress, their hair adorned with El son is a danceable music played mainly in

ribbons in the style of Oaxaca’s isthmus cul- Carolina BY PHOTO Herrera New York Jalisco, Veracruz and Nayarit. Locals take to the ture shepherd guests to their seats. Back- floor and dance in the zapateado way, striking stage, models, skinny like exquisite praying hard with every step. The rhythm of the song mantises, turn up their faces for painting is created in part by the sound of heels hitting and shimmy their slender forms into the wood. designer’s confections. La valona verses employ typically clever Herrera sits up front. There are other de- Backstage, Mexican humor to give songs double mean- signers showing, such as Mexico’s Carlos models prep ings. For instance, the last word or sentence Demichelis, but she is the center of attention. for their of a stanza might be repeated in the following When her models parade down the runway, turn on the stanza, but used in a different way, seeding the crowd takes pleasure in both Herrera’s catwalk. the song throughout with funny double-en- skill and the confident personal style that tendres. shows in the work. At one point the Catholic Church tried “My inspiration comes from many places, to suppress the Son Jarocho. Apparently the from books, from memory. This collection was Oaxaqueñas church took exception to the frequent use inspired by a late 18th century movement in in traditional of sexual double-entendres and tendency Viennese prints and decorative arts, from a dress served as to make fun of religion, death, and even the show I saw in Paris.” The clothes have clas- hostesses for church itself. sic lines but are adorned with bold prints, the event. And for the pre-Hispanic music, from the with pink, brown and periwinkle dominating first moment I heard the song Raíz Viva, I fell the color scheme. in love with the unique sounds of the 20 or “One dresses according to the times,” she so drum and wind instruments. Not all the said. “We must translate our inspiration instruments in this version are traditional; in for the time in which we are living, so that the original piece musicians played the triple the clothes are not folkloric. That is what it flute of Texexexpan, Veracruz, the triple flute of means to be modern.” the Golf, and the Toltecas flutes. Even so, this The last model leaves the catwalk, and the haunting instrumental piece will transport you audience comes to its feet. Herrera limps to to an ancient past rich with myths, gods, and a podium to receive an award for her distin- Carolina natural beauty. guished career, her white suit now set off by Herrera If you want to experience all this yourself, a painted purple cane, support for an ankle strikes a you’ll have a chance this month. Los Folkloris- twisted on Oaxaca’s cobbled streets. She gives pose with tas will be playing in Mexico City. Keep an eye a short speech of thanks to the evening’s em- two young out for dates. cee and the crowd, then gingerly, but grace- fans. For more information and tickets, see their fully returns to her seat. ❚ website www.losfolkloristas.com.mx. March 2007 InsideMéxico [ 13 ] Curious faces greet visitors to one of the shelter’s patios, where the dogs are free to play and hang out together.

[ 14 ] InsideMéxico March 2007 dog tales AA cleanclean wellwelllightedlighted placeplace Presencia Animal rescues Mexico City’s lost, abused and abandoned animals, and offers them safe haven.

March 2007 InsideMéxico [ 15 ] by Tara FitzGerald Photos by Luz Montero ena stands trembling on the surgery table as two vets carefully tend to the multiple burns and scabs on her body, covering them with ointment and gauze and then bandaging her carefully. When they are finished she looks more bandage than dog, but she Knever cries or complains. Kena was brought to the Presencia Animal pet shelter in Janu- ary after a reporter who was called to a warehouse fire found her tied up inside the burning building. She is just one of 75 dogs and 34 cats that, after being abandoned, lost or mistreated, currently live at this haven run by Dr. Jose Luis Genis.

“I like this work because it is more varied than cause they are simply too wild and won’t even simply working in a veterinary clinic,” says Dr. let people touch them. He’s a pragmatist, real- Genis, a soft spoken man who has worked at izing that he will never be able to save each the shelter for 10 years. As we go from room to and every animal that arrives at the shelter. room in this house that serves as a pet orphan- It is too late for the shelter to help one scraw- age, he talks to the animals, strokes one, and ny little black-and-white cat with a lopsided then picks up another for a cuddle. expression. “This one will have to be put down “Not all the animals that arrive here are today because his body is not absorbing nutri- mistreated, but many of them are. We also get ents any more. There’s nothing more we can do dogs and cats that have been rescued from the for him,” Dr. Genis says as he places the tiny cat street. Some have been abandoned and some in a cage so that the others can’t steal his food. are merely lost,” Dr. Genis explains. For the dogs and cats that Dr. Genis deems Presencia Animal opened its doors to the adoptable, Presencia works hard to find them waifs and strays of the animal kingdom 20 homes. On the shelter’s website you can browse years ago. Since then it has worked not only to photos of the animals and fill-in an online adoption care for these abandoned creatures, but to edu- application form. All the animals are guaranteed Dr. Jose Luis Genis, the director of the shelter, cate people on how to be better pet owners. to be healthy, sterilized and fully vaccinated. From the street, the shelter looks like just There are strict conditions for the adoptive another house. There’s no sign and it doesn’t family as well. A prospective pet owner must is responsible for the day-to-day care of the animals, publicise the address so that people don’t aban- answer questions about past pets and why he don animals on the doorstep. Instead, there’s an no longer has them, his reasons for adopting a as well as ensuring that those who are adopted go to answering service where people can leave ques- new pet, and the conditions in which it will live tions about adopting a pet, or information about (e.g. inside or outside the house). responsible, loving owners. But he’s never too busy a rescued animal. The staff return all calls, and Once its high standards have been met, the will arrange to pick up an animal if necessary. shelter delivers the adopted pet to its new home. From the moment I walk in, the Presencia But their responsibility doesn’t end there. The to give a little affection, as Mosh here can testify. Animal shelter feels more like a home than a adoptive family must agree to a follow-up visit to shelter. In the kitchen, small dogs romp freely, check on the animal’s health and wellbeing. while others sun themselves on the front and “Our aim is to get five dogs adopted per back patios. Dr. Genis explains that where week,” says Dr. Genis, adding that so far this each dog is kept depends largely on size, tem- year (to mid-February) 31 dogs have been ad- perament and the type of attention required. opted. In 2006, Presencia found new homes “For example, the dogs that are here [on the for 246 dogs. “Normally people hear about us back patio within sight of the surgery] tend to through our website or through advertisements be the more timid animals. They need attention that we place in newspapers,” he adds. because most of them have been mistreated, and here they have more direct contact with Virtual Adoption us throughout the day,” he says. Presencia also has a “virtual adoption” pro- Of course, many of the dogs are caged be- gram for the animals that are old, disabled or cause they are aggressive or overly energetic, in need of constant medical care, and as such but even these cages are spread throughout the have little or no chance of being taken into rooms of the house. The place is light and airy someone’s home. Donations to the program and people come and go constantly. ensure these animals will live out their lives on The cat kingdom – one large room dedicated the secure and peaceful grounds of a large farm to the three dozen feline residents – is at the outside of Mexico City with 24 hours care and back of the house. There are scratching poles, all the love and freedom they need. And here’s one of the lucky ones. cubby holes for chilling out, toys and bells scat- In return for an annual donation of 1,200 pesos tered over the floor, and a huge wooden play- the sponsor receives a photo of her adopted pet, Silvia, a volunteer at the shelter, tracks house for climbing. as well as monthly updates on how it is getting down the owner of lost French poodle Tiny, fluffy kittens purr and street-wise on. Presencia arranges annual visits to the farm. Nacho and arranges to have him deliv- toms, veterans of one too many brawls, stalk. At the moment, about 130 dogs and 50 cats are ered home within a few days. As he surveys the scene, Dr. Genis notes that being cared for by sponsors who have signed on some of these cats will never be adopted be- through the virtual adoptions program.

[ 16 ] InsideMéxico March 2007 Two poodles re- cuperate after their neutering operations. All the animals that arrive at the shelter are sterilized as a matter of course in order to pre- vent health problems and overpopulation.

Then there is the nursery assistance pro- Make Contact gram for kittens and puppies recuperating from starting life on the street and that are Presencia Animal still too young to be adopted. Donations help www.presenciaanimal.org care for them until they have grown up a bit, Tel: 5135-5343 (in DF) received all their vaccines and medical treat- [email protected] ments, and been sterilized. At that point they (for information on virtual are ready to go to a good home. adoptions)

Volunteer Work Cambia un Destino The shelter is open every day from 9am-4pm for – adoption center official business, but there is always someone www.cambiaundestino.com.mx there taking care of the animals. The four regular Tel: 5219-3610 or 5219-3611 staff members are helped by about six volunteers. (in DF) In addition to Dr. Genis, there is another vet that Business hours: Dr. Jose Luis Genis, the director of the shelter, visits three days a week and performs the more Mon-Fri 9.30 am-7.30 pm, complicated surgical procedures. Sat and Sun 12 pm-5 pm is responsible for the day-to-day care of the animals, Although the shelter welcomes volunteers, adopciones@cambiaundestino. they want to be sure they’re getting the right com.mx people. “We have a person who is dedicated to as well as ensuring that those who are adopted go to interviewing potential volunteers,” Dr. Genis Prodefensa Animal A.C. explains. (prodan), Monterrey responsible, loving owners. But he’s never too busy Sylvia has been volunteering at Presencia Rescues mistreated and Animal for about two years now. “I decided to abandoned animals; offers to give a little affection, as Mosh here can testify. volunteer after I rescued a dog from the street pet for adoption; gives talks in and a friend told me about the adoption pro- schools on caring for animals grams they run here. I love animals – I have a and promotes pet steriliza- dog and six cats at home – so I am just glad to tion, among other activities. be able to help,” she says. Plutarco Elias Calle No. 307 Presencia Animal promotes sterilization – Col. Tampiquito “Sterilize and Save Lives”– something that some Garza García, N.L. 66240 Mexicans are often loath to do. “People here are Tel: 8478-0566 (Monterrey) less likely to sterilize their pets because they www.prodan.org.mx want puppies or kittens,” says Sylvia. “But then Bank account: they just end up throwing them out on the street BANORTE 147026358 because they can’t find homes for them.” Checks should be made out to The shelter sterilizes all its animals and en- Prodefensa Animal A.C. courages pet owners to do the same. As well as Donations can be made preventing animal overpopulation, Presencia online. says it can help animals lead longer, healthier lives by preventing uterine, ovarian, breast and More links about animal testicular cancer. adoptions and shelters on Meanwhile, my visit ends on a happy note Presencia Animal’s website. when Dr. Genis discovers that a French poodle named Nacho who was brought in to the shel- Presencia Animal keeps photographic ter is wearing identification tags. He probably has an anxious owner who is looking for him. records of all its animals that are up for A quick phone call confirms Dr. Genis’ suspi- adoption, as well as those that have found cions and arrangements are made to return the new homes. mop-headed pooch to his rightful home. You can almost see Nacho smile when Dr. Genis says, “You’re going home boy! You’re one of the lucky ones.” ❚

March 2007 InsideMéxico [ 17 ] Luneta, one of the shelter’s older residents, belies her age with her spectacular jumping ability.

What’s going on out here? Luneta makes an acrobatic break for freedom.

Kena was rescued from a warehouse fire and brought to the shelter by a reporter called to the blaze. Pres- encia Animal is appealing for do-

Kena rests on the floor of the nations to fund Cubby holes for cats. The three surgery after a bandage change. dozen feline residents of the shelter her costly medical have their own room filled with toys care. and a wooden playhouse. [ 18 ] InsideMéxico March 2007 the Pet Travel Advice tip Import regulations vary widely from country to country, so you need to do your research and start the process well in advance. It will help a lot if you work with a vet who’s familiar with the regulations of the country where you’re going.

Pet Travel Scheme (pets) USDA Animal and Plant Mexico City vets experienced Information Health Inspection Service importing and exporting pets www.defra.gov.uk/animalh/ (aphis) quarantine/index.htm www.aphis.usda.gov/vs/ncie/ Dr. Samuel Yelin iregs/animals/ HosPetAl www.perrosdemexico.com.mx Provides links to international Toluca Libre A great resource for dog own- export/import regulations for Tel: 5259-5840 ers in Mexico many countries. Dr. Hector Sánchez Clinica Animal de Bosques Duraznos Tel: 5596-1672

Immigrant pets

By Michelle M. Stroud In order to do this, we had to implant a microchip in Roxy’s shoulder. The point of or corporate families that move often the chip is to prove that Roxy is the same between countries, owning a pet can dog whose rabies vaccination numbers are F seem like a domestic luxury beyond recorded in the accompanying paperwork. reach. The prospect of the sticky red tape Without that proof, she would be tossed into that comes with transporting animals across quarantine. national borders had, until recently, kept my However -- and here’s the tricky part -- family pet-free. the chips most often used in Mexico aren’t That changed for us one night in Chapulte- always readable by British scanners, and pec Park. A weak, young, flea-ridden Ger- the chips in Britain usually can’t be read by man shepherd – soon to be named Roxy -- the scanners here. There’s no universally won our hearts. When we lifted her into our accepted “chipping” system. car, we embarked on a journey that would You have a choice. You can either insist teach us all that is involved in preparing a that your vet order a chip from the country pet for the transient life of an executive with where you’re going, or you can implant the a global corporation. Mexican chip and bring along a Mexican scanner that the foreign authorities can use Avoiding Quarantines to match your pet to her paperwork. Many countries require animals to be de- Once Roxy got her chip, the next step was tained at the border until authorities are a rabies vaccination, followed by a blood test positive that they are disease (and particu- a few weeks later to confirm that the shot larly rabies) free. However, there are ways to had worked. This process isn’t just time con- shorten these quarantines and even to avoid suming, it’s expensive. The chip, the vaccina- them altogether. tion, and the blood test will cost you upwards In our case, we may not know where we’re of $250 USD. going practically until we’re packing the And there’s more… six months more. Roxy house. So as soon as we adopted Roxy, we won’t be cleared to travel for six months after began preparing her to travel at a moments her blood test. notice. In a situation such as ours, it’s a good idea to follow the guidelines for a country Final Steps whose regulations are strict, just to increase Before we leave Mexico, Roxy will go back to the likelihood that you’ll be covered no mat- the vet for a final exam and a health certifi- ter where you go. The island nations, Great cate declaring that she’s okay to travel. At Britain, Japan, and Australia, tend to have the Mexico airport, we’ll present that certifi- the toughest requirements. cate and the vaccination records to the Office We chose to follow the British guidelines of Animal Health. They will issue a second It’s a dog’s life. Two puppies chill out because they’re demanding enough to satisfy certificate, the Guia Sanitaria, before Roxy the requirements of most European countries leaves the country. on the back patio. and many others. Until recently, Britain had Since most receiving countries and many a mandatory six-month quarantine, which is airlines will have their own requirements not only costly, but can be traumatic for the vis-à-vis health certificates and vaccinations, animal. Now, with the introduction of their be sure you have everything you need in new “pet travel scheme” (PETS), it’s possible hand before you leave the vet’s office.❚ to bypass pet prison.

March 2007 InsideMéxico [ 19 ] [

20 T T

]

I nside a a M s s éxico te te omnivore’sdilemma S ecutive ingconsulting, photography, the studyingreerthe tic Mexican cooking in an upscale setting. Izote] and I were the first to offer authen fire, the earth….from nothing.” thewater, thewind, the invoke to have women do, it’s really like magic…. [they] Mexicanwomen arestrong. Whatthese profoundly feminine. But strong, the way her hands,” she says. “Mexican cuisine is an caressing and forming the tortilla with as gender. such characteristics even encompass to texture and color taste, beyondtending multidimensionalthing, a its qualities is ex food Ortiz, for that clear becomes It eat.” can you that film little “a says, through Mexican gastronomy. creating “a total experience of the senses” launched direction to others’ culinary projects, she Mexicanon regional cuisine—and offer cookbooks eight penned has food—she bearing and resume; Ortiz began her ca her academyin the of hint a thanmore aliterature “ person. in accessible and tiz, model glamorous in photos, is earthy desk. her on piled shelves, in stacked books, therestaurant, arethe to doornext ing build understated an in located office, tory of Mexico. a ritual dedicated to the culture and his sense of taste is just the staging area for dining room five years after its opening. elegant the crowd to continue who customers, satisfied of multitudes restaurants. best ury and travel press as one of the world’s knowledgement by the international lux L A tar cademy of of cademy I “ “ “ T F B The world of chef P T n 2001, after years of writing about about writing of years after 2001, n E H he first thing you notice in Ortiz’s Ortiz’s in notice you thing first he or the restaurant’s owner and and owner restaurant’s the or y greats dishesonliterature, atricia [Quintana, chef of restaurant hink about tortillas—there’s a wom D ach plate is a little story,” Ortiz Ortiz story,” little a is plate ach Sobremesa Sobremesa istory of

S iamond awards by the by awards iamond M C lender with long dark hair, Or hair, dark long with lender hef Martha Ortiz, however, the A argot guila y R a is, by all measures, excellent: obvi the with dispense et’s ous: the food atfood the ous: feminine cuisine,andthe P H eforma. One ofMexic’sculinary h F G D ospitality ospitality our our astronomy. ,”she says, and there is S L S A Mar ol, with the mission of ociologyof F ee nd, not least of all, all, of least not nd, S orks review from from review orks everal prestigious

S hetter S I ciences. ciences. A ’d love to be be to love ’d PR guila yguila A F merican P and art ood andood t olanco olanco taste ofpatria l y E A S ha

x ol c ------dedicated to Mexican culture andT history F N dreamed of being a princess at Mitla (the her. to importance utmost of are dishes the of names the even presented, is it which pearancefood,theatmospheretheof in skill. success is the triumph of marketing over culinaryfides, grumblingbona her that a tiny “beauty spot” of red chili oil. chip,inserts twochive quills andpaints taro a places she dish, red tomato a in ing to the eye: into a green avocado soup presentationoverwhelminglyis appeal and editing with colors and textures. writing poet a plates, the of production traditionalthemeticulousin a sense as towitness not somuch food preparation thecompany of chef circuit, her name often mentioned in T N cuisine has earned her international acclaim. oday, Ortiz is a star on the international erran he owwe’ve been joined by many others.” apa Valley’sapa to classical Mexican S WatchingOrtizprepare herdishes is O M ome in the food world question Ortiz’s

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D anielBoulud, S pain’s T he - - photos by guillermo kahlo famedMexican architect S reta(who built the ers from t’s the voyage of the of voyage the “It’s says. she world,” earth and sky and history. learntasteto the richcolors Mexicanof eagle.” open one in regreso’ she says) and has been invited to a Madrid outpost (“it’s the ‘conquista del this year. to the book, which will be published later essays contributed have others) among taste”. my are you “Mexico as eloquently) (less expressed E direct no with know”, “to and taste” “to bes bookcalled cooking that causes some to bristle. hunger for company beyond the world of plines,” Ortiz says, and perhaps it is this all carry Mexican pride.” mole Oaxaqueño identity. us gives food] [Mexican country. my of history the of pieces and bits tasting in but eating, of act the on just not based pastry with a feminine twist). Magas la florería aca)is evident in names like ancient site of the Mixtec empire, in Oax ol, she admitsshehavingol,interesttoan in nglishtranslation whichbutmightbe “ I A S “ “ , a delicious play between the words the between playdelicious a , I I f she succeeds, many more people will he’s currently working on a cook a on working currently he’s sked about plans to expand I like toexpose myself toother disci want Mexican culture totravel the ’ve developed a culinary utopia, utopia, culinary a developed ’ve (the traditional X F (a dessert decorated with flow ochimilco) and orexample, México:túquetodoa mesa L os A and ngeles. F C sopa de tortilla riends, such as the as such riends, amino chilesennogada, Díade los Magos Rosca de Reina R ❚ icardo R Maríava a eal M A arch H guila y L , they otels, egor 2007 ------

Crema de Cacao Ceremonial Avocado Soup With Whimsical Cookies ingredients (Servings: 2) • 150 g peeled, pitted avocado • 20 g green apple cut in cubes, ingredients (Servings:4) • 1/2 chile serrano, or to taste for decorating • 500 g sweet whipping cream • 1 pinch of salt • 10 g sour cream and • 20 g peeled cucumber in cubes • 3 egg yolks • Whimsical corn cookies (see • 30 g coconut milk • 1 teaspoon dry coconut sea- • 1 tablespoon toasted and recipe) • 100 ml chicken broth (fat free) soned with chile sol ground chile ancho, or to taste • 1/2 teaspoon cilantro seeds • Scallion, for decoration • 90 g bittersweet chocolate (coriander) crushed • Salt, to taste • 75 g bitter chocolate • 1 pinch oregano • Oregano Vinaigrette, to taste y preparation preparation eat the cream in a pot; iquify the avocado with H when it begins to boil, L the chile, cream, coconut carefully add egg yokes; milk and chicken broth. Add then, add ground chile with the cilantro seeds, oregano the chocolates and a pinch of and salt. Pass the mixture salt. Cook until completely through a colander and re- mixed. Pour into bowls and frigerate. Serve in soup bowls, refrigerate. Serve with the decorating with cubed apple, “whimsical” cookies. (see cucumber, coco enchilado and recipe) scallions. Finish with a dash of oregano vinaigrette. aguila

Oregano Whimsical Vinaigrette Corn Cookies of preparation preparation ix the vinegar with the ix sugar and egg whites. M mustard; add salt and M Add flour, cocoa and pepper to taste. Add orega- butter. Drop dough in circles no, then oil. Beat until all on non-stick cooling pan and ingredients are thoroughly bake at 200º C. Give the cook- montero mixed. ies whimsical forms immedi- luz

ately after taking them out of the oven. photos ingredients (Yield: Approx. 150 milliliters) ingredients (Servings: 12 cookies) • 2 tablespoons white wine • 1 tablespoon fresh oregano • 3 egg whites • 25 g cocoa vinegar mashed • 125 g white sugar • 50 g melted butter taste • 1 teaspoons dijon mustard • Salt, to taste • 100 g wheat flour • 2 teaspoons dried oregano • Ground white pepper, to taste • 25 g corn flour • 125 ml olive oil a

a good meal demands a good wine for so many good reasons

oscar wilde 9 col. polanco, méxico, d.f. 5282 1066 5280 1834 [email protected]

March 2007 InsideMéxico [ 21 ] La Cava

winewise LESSON 2 the nose knows...

wineby carlo cibo / photos by luz montero roma may be more important to Ayour appreciation of a wine than taste.

PART 1 - THE NOSE: A HISTORY

he best wines possess tasting and enjoying wine. gratification on your palate. pounds have been detected in the chemical changes that oc- the richest aromas. A large part of what we call The aromatic informa- wine and can be organized in cur as the wine ages. TThose that aren’t as the “taste” is really “aroma.” tion that is processed by our the following manner: prima- This multiplicity of aro- good are aromatically poor, (You know this because when brains, therefore, mingles ry aromas that come from the matic compounds is a func- and our sense of smell tells you have cold you can’t taste with previous experiences. grape and are the most fresh tion of the soil, climate, age us the difference. A wine’s your food.) In addition to tell- For this reason, it’s funda- and fruity; secondary aromas and type (or types) of grapes, “nose” as it’s called, reveals ing you about the wine, the mentally important that a generated during the fermen- the ripeness of the grapes, much about its identity, ori- bouquet can conjure intense good wine taster, as well as tation process are more intri- as well as the materials and gin and quality before you memories of people, places, an aficionado, taste wines of- cate than the primary aro- technology used during the even put it in your mouth. and emotions; it’s an olfac- ten so that the aromas lodge mas; tertiary aromas are the winemaking and aging pro- In fact, smell may be the tory prelude in her memory. most mysterious, elegant, and cesses. most important sense for to the carnal Nearly 500 aromatic com- complex. These result from

Everyday Special Occasion Wines expert Wines With a good quality/price ratio, these Wine for daily use that are good and wines offer intense flavors and make choice inexpensive – under $150 pesos. excellent gifts. At less than $500 pesos, they are worth the price. Carlo Cibo LAN Crianza 100 % Tempranillo Cinco Sentidos Bodegas LAN Malbec D.O.C. Rioja, España Finca Algarve Each month, Mendoza, Argentina we’ll bring The color is cherry red with ruby back- This wine is clean and brilliant. Its ground. Complex combination of aromas. intense red-violet color glimmers with you a fresh The aging process created an aromatic bal- hints of ruby. Delicate aromas of ripe ance between the oak (from the casks) and plum and cherry enter the nose and re- perspective mature fruits. It’s an expressive wine, with peat on the tongue. In the glass, you will sweet and elegant tannins. Accopanies stews smell hints of vanilla and leather, which on the wines and dry cheeses. You can find it in supermar- come the time spent aging in the cask. kets for an average price of $140 pesos. Enjoy it with pasta, a fondue or a grilled we drink and steak. You can find it in specialty stores and a few restaurants, such as Entrevinos why we love in Polanco for $200 pesos. them.

[ 22 ] InsideMéxico March 2007 PART 2- THE NOSE: IN PRACTICE

Many people worry that they’re not going to be able to detect as many aromas as they think they should be able to. Smelling wine is really about practice and concentration. If you pay more attention to aromas around you – plants, spices, the earth, flowers, fruit, vegetables, bread, cooking food – you’ll also improve your nose for wine. Keep your glass on the table and swirl it so that air mixes with the wine. Then, quickly, lift the glass to your nose. Stick your nose as far into the glass as you can without touching the wine and smell it. Free associate: is the smell fruity, woody, intense, light? Wait a moment and try again. (Your nose gets tired fast, but recovers fast, too.) Listen to what your friends say and try to find the aromas Paying close attention that they smell. The impor- to the “nose” will increase tant thing, after this ritual of your enjoyment of the wine. swirling and sniffing, is that you discover smells that are pleasurable and interesting… and that you have fun.

Note: Bad aromas exist too. Wine is a natural, agricultural product. When a wine is dam- aged it’s immediately notice- able in the aroma.

Luxury Wines These wines can be enjoyed now, or kept for a later date. Gran Ricardo Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc y Merlot Bodegas Monte Xanic, Valle de Guadalupe, B.C., México

This is a great Mexican wine with primary aromas of strawberry and wild raspberry in front, and a background of cedar, chocolate and anis. It’s smooth and velvety with amazing balance. This fine wine can be enjoyed by itself or with entrees such as beef Wellington and baked leg of lamb with rosemary. It will compliment the strong flavors of veni- son, duck, goose, as well as aged cheeses. You can find it in specialty stores for an average price of $650 pesos.

March 2007 InsideMéxico [ 23 ] Health The Fixer TACOS a healthy option Fia-what? Taking out the bad Understanding rental won’t make you miss requirements in Mexico out on the good By Maya Harris by Georgina del Ángel ays, weeks or problems. Many of us arrive Photos by even months af- without personal contacts Luz Montero ter scouring the or a sponsoring company. Dclassifieds, talk- Unfortunately, we immi- One of the double-edged ing to realtors and tour- grants often lose out on our luxuries of eating in Mexico ing so-called “rooms with a dream rentals because we – getting a licuado or a view” you’ve finally found cannot turn up a fiador. It tamal on the street corner, a the perfect rental property feels a little awkward to ask quesadilla in the market, a and you’re anxious to end someone you’ve just met to taco at the local joint – is for- the search and settle in. risk their personal property getting about those nagging Sound familiar? If so, for your sake. nutritional labels that stalk you know that the work Lacking a fiador, a rent- us in the supermarket. In a has only just begun. er may be allowed by the foreign country, it’s all the Renting property in landlord to purchase a fi- more tempting to imagine Mexico is a civil act, regu- anza – bond contract – from that calories and cholesterol lated by each state, and in an afinanzadora – financial simply don’t count. (Come on Mexico City (as well as in institution specialized in – tacos al pastor are tiny!) most other states) rental performance bonds. Yet living here doesn’t law includes a fianza or a Fianzas are, essentially, mean we’re on permanent fiador. This means that be- landlord insurance paid by vacation from paying atten- yond the renter’s contract, the renter; the renter pays tion to what we eat. Inside and security deposit, the a premium (around 10% of México’s nutrition colum- landlord also requires a a year’s contract) so that nist steers you toward better personal guaranty contract, the institution will assume choices, without suffering committing a third party liability in the event that total taco avoidance. Healthy taco suggestions to assume the obligation of the renter defaults. • Lean meats (chicken, fish, • Legumes (beans) the lease in the event that Although small property bove all the re- beef) • Tortillas de maíz (tortillas de the renter defaults. owners often discourage gional dishes that • Any type of fresh vegetable harina – flour – contain salt Essentially, someone this option, Phillip Hendrix identify each state that isn’t fried (flor de calabaza, and fat) – an individual, organiza- of Coldwell Banker recom- Ain the country, the nopales, spinach, etc.) tion or institution– has to mends fianzas to land- taco is like the national flag Remember: To keep calories down, tortillas de maíz should be grilled vouch for the renter. lords because they can go of food, Mexico’s common cu- (a la parrilla or a la plancha) or roasted (asada) and never fried (frita). Many landlords will first directly to the afianzadora linary banner. ask for a fiador. A fiador to recoup lost rent instead Since pre-Hispanic times or guarantor, is a property of suing someone. the taco has been a basic owner (individual or com- Landlords who have food of the Mexican people. The body’s ability to create we make a healthy, balanced pany) who co-signs with had very bad experiences Conquest-era chroniclers healthy cells and maintain choice? The important thing the renter. A fiador must have been known to ask for Bernal Díaz del Castillo a state of well-being de- is to choose a filling with have real estate registered both a fiador and a fianza, and Don Fray Bernardino pends on those nutrients. high-quality nutrients, and in her name. This property though “if you have a fia- de Sahagún explicitly nar- The Mexican corn tortilla’s to remember that everyone can be held as leverage if dor – there is no need to rate how the indigenous high nutritional content of- has particular needs. In gen- the renter doesn’t pay. De- spend the extra money on diet consisted of a tortilla fers our bodies lots of ben- eral, an obese person with pending on how the con- a fianza. One or the other made from maíz. On the tor- efits; it contains calcium and high blood cholesterol should tract is constructed, land- should be enough,” says tilla the indigenous people dietary fiber, without adding choose grilled white meats owners can legally sue the Patricia Hogan, of Interna- heaped vegetables, beans, fat or salt (unlike flour torti- like chicken or fish, legumes fiador directly without first tional Relocation Services. turkey or quail, chapulines llas, which do). and grilled vegetables. Some- suing the renter. The moral of this tale? If (grasshopper), gusanos de one with anemia should Despite the risk in- you are new to Mexico and maguey (worms), tadpoles How to make eat red meat at least twice curred, it’s common prac- need a place to live, look or snake meat. Then they a healthy taco a week, and legumes and tice to co-sign for the sake for close, property-owning rolled it up and ate it. The difference between a grilled vegetables as well. A of a friend: “I trust the peo- friends while you’re scout- healthy and an unhealthy pregnant woman should opt ple I’ve done it for, and I’ve ing those apartments. Tortillas, a healthy taco is what’s inside the tor- for grilled white meats, green never had a problem. If I Happy hunting! ❚ food tilla. Given the countless vegetables and legumes, and can help friends simplify Next Month: Every nutrient has a func- varieties of tacos, when it red meat once their process, I’m happy to Step-by-step advice on tion inside the human body, comes time to order, how do a week. ❚ do so” says Cristina Garcia, getting a fiador and acquir- which is why it’s important who has agreed to be a fia- ing a fianza. to recognize which ones are Georgina del Ángel is a nutritionist and researcher at the Sal- dor for numerous friends. vador Zubirán National Institute of Nutrition in Mexico City, Please send comments and ques- found in any given food. specializing in nutrition and the treatment of chronic and However, this is where tions to: [email protected] degenerative diseases. Any questions? [email protected] many new arrivals run into

[ 24 ] InsideMéxico March 2007 Market Meter

Nuevo León 221, Condesa 92m2, 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom, bedroom (which is accompanied What’s does communal terrace, street parking by its own bathroom) comfortably The 35-year-old yellow building, fits a king size bed and comes with across Baja California from the heart of a full wall of deep built-in closets $1,ooo,ooo Condesa, was completely renovated in and shelves. The second bedroom is 2000, and the current owners added smaller and has no closet. The full hall hardwood floors to the living room/ bathroom is little. pesos get you? dining room about six months ago. The kitchen is divided in two by a They also built a bar that partitions the wall of pantries and cupboards – more BY Catherine Dunn kitchen and living room area, an excel- storage! The cuarto de servicio, off the PHOTOS BY Luz Montero lent set-up for entertaining. kitchen, fits a washer and dryer. As the Wall-to-wall carpet covers only apartment on the ground floor of hat Polanco palace is probably a pipe both bedrooms, which look onto a nine-apartment building, it has more Tdream, but for a price tag of a million the building’s terrace. The master privacy, though less sunlight. pesos you can turn up decent-sized apartments in good, centrally located neighborhoods. Cuauhtémoc 1378, Santa Cruz Atoyac 68 m2, 2 bedrooms, 1 bath, 1 parking space, 24-hour security + elevator, small gym and rooftop terrace Hunkered alongside four- lane Av. Cuauhtémoc, this one-year-old complex puts you across the street from Del Valle, a five-minute walk from Metro Zapata, and a short jaunt space are limited, and there is no from Plaza Universidad. There additional storage. are banks, supermarkets and a The bedrooms, one slightly movie theatre close at hand. larger than the other, don’t The living room/dining room come with closets. The view of is compact, as is everything in the mechanic’s shop in back is this laminate-floored apartment. not much to look at, but in the The natural light coming through distance you see the silhouettes half-frosted windows opens of mountains. An $800 peso/ up the space a bit. A cuarto de month maintenance fee covers servicio off the kitchen can fit a the small communal gym, which washing machine and an extra includes a treadmill, an elliptical pantry. Counter and cupboard machine, and a weight machine.

Obrero Mundial 239, Navarte 97 m2, 3 bedrooms, 1 bathroom, 1 parking space, no elevator, 4th floor You’ll get a workout climbing to the fourth floor, but the tree- top level perch is a darn good reward. Parts of Obrero Mun- dial are traffic-busy and not so pretty, but this block is shaded by greenery. Highlights include room. Of the three apartments, the living room/dining room it is the only one with a vanity with floor-to-ceiling windows sink instead of a stand-alone and a balcony, and the charm- model. In the two smaller bed- ing kitchen with glass-paned rooms the closets are awkward, cupboards and rustic tilework. built out of the wall instead of Arched doorways line the inset. Remodeling would fix it. hallway off the dining area. The There is no cuarto de servicio, black-tiled bathroom has two but on the roof is a common entrances: one off the hallway room for installing your own and one from the master bed- washer and dryer.

For more information on these apartments and real estate in Mexico, email [email protected].

March 2007 InsideMéxico [ 25 ] RealEstate CloseUp

Inside México Talks with Óscar Cedillo City Streets A Roma resident’s love of DF’s gritty side

Photos by Luz Montero

Inside México: What do San Judas you do? Tadeo, the The building is located Óscar Cedillo: I’m the patron saint on a leafy street in Colonia head of the Community and of difficult Roma. Culture sections at the daily cases, keeps newspaper Excelsior. watch over IM: How did you get your Cedillo’s start in journalism? apartment. OC: Print journalism was never my passion; I had always wanted to work in film. But I started working at the newspaper El Financiero in ‘96-’97, after leaving school. I started writing articles, then I went from there to Reforma, where I worked in the Justice section, then Stunning wood floors to Metro (Reforma’s daily reflect the space’s natural tabloid). That’s when I re- light. ally fell in love with what I was doing. I love the popular aspect of the job. I love seeing the sordid side of life: the kidnappers, the thieves, the prostitutes, the gangsters… I’ve interviewed them all. In the streets I meet all kinds bad ones, everything. I even with the people, to be in the street. Like a lot of formerly of people. I’m energized by remember seeing these hor- streets, to convivir. I have a popular areas – Escandón, the theatre of the street. rible Russian films. good relationship with the Condesa, Navarte – in Roma IM: Your walls are covered IM: What are your favorite people around the neighbor- you get the neighborhood, with art and images from films? hood, like the zapatero and but now you get the services film. Where did this interest OC: The Godfather, Scarface the señora down the street too. It’s the best of both. come from? and Taxi Driver. I love Mar- who sells quesadillas. Mexico is a very visual An antique bathtub OC: Actually, I’ve always tin Scorcese’s sensibility. I’m completely at home place, the language of the provides a touch of luxury. been interested in film. IM: Why did you choose to in Mexico City… I can’t get barrio is visual. People come My father is a real cine- live in Colonia Roma? enough of the luchas, the from outside and find value phile. Before I was even old OC: I lived in Condesa for a cantinas and the popular in the popular way of life, enough to read, my dad and long time, before it was fash- markets. I go the beach for which we ourselves don’t I would go to the movies to- ionable. It’s a great neigh- a few days and I get antsy always do, since we’re in it gether. We’d watch the films borhood but I got tired of the to be back here. every day and can’t see it. and eat a roast chicken. I traffic and all the people. A IM: Do you think the gen- But I’m very proud to be learned everything about friend of mine was living in trification of neighborhoods from the barrio. It used to film and saw the great this building, and he told me like Roma is a bad thing? annoy me when intellectuals icons like El Indio Fernán- about this apartment. I’ve OC: I don’t think so. The would come here and con- dez. We’d go to all kinds of been here for three years neighborhoods aren’t losing sume the culture, but now theatres, from the piojitos now. something, they’re getting I want them to have it and (popular cinemas) to the I grew up in [nearby Co- better. The aesthetics are understand it. The way I see nicest ones. We saw classic lonia] Doctores, so Roma for improving. I can have my it, they can come and get in- The bar stands ready for films, Mexican films, inter- me is like the same old fa- comfortable apartment here, spiration and write about it, an after work drink. national films, good ones, miliar barrio. It’s great to be and still have the life on the but I’ve already lived it. ❚ [ 26 ] InsideMéxico March 2007 Staying in Touch Flying Smart How to get the most from your air miles

By Jamie Rosen sess about making the most of every mile, this is only the beginning. I love frequent flyer miles. I once Since I go to New York regularly, I flew nine times in one day back and take advantage of another perk: the forth between Boston and New York free stopover. just because Pan Am was running a When flyingC ontinental I can use promotion that offered 5,000 bonus miles to take a vacation in Europe miles each way. and stop – for free – in New York on So when I moved to Mexico two my way home. That’s because New- years ago, I was pleased to find that ark is a gateway city for Continental Mexico is a fantastic place to live if and considered a “natural” routing you’re a frequent flyer junkie. That’s point between Mexico and Europe. because Mexico is considered by most For these trips, I fly direct from airlines to be in the same “zone” as Mexico City to Paris or Amsterdam the rest of North America. For ex- (on one of Continental’s partner air- ample, airlines that will fly you from lines, Air France or KLM) and then New York to London for 50,000 fre- take Continental on my way home quent flyer miles will also fly you with a stopover in New York for sev- from Mexico City to eral days. For 50,000 miles, which From Mexico Istanbul for the same is just 15,000 more than it normally 50,000 miles (which costs to fly from MexicoC ity to New City to I did with my wife in York, I get a trip to Europe without Istanbul, October). having to double-back (and pay for) From a cost per- a second trip to New York. cash in when spective, this makes Another variation works for people you live on about as much sense who divide their time between the as the US Postal Ser- US and Mexico. For example, sup- the edge of vice charging the 39 pose you live in Atlanta and spend the North cents to deliver a let- winters in San Miguel de Allende. ter, whether it’s going Rather than cash in your frequent American from one side of Man- flyer miles for a round-trip ticket airline zone. hattan to the other or (30,000 miles on Delta), use 20,000 from Boston to Seattle more miles and add in a trip to Eu- (or from Puerto Rico to Guam, if you rope too. How? This is not for the really want to stretch the point). faint-of-heart as it requires some When it comes to regular tickets, deft scheduling, but in theory you airlines usually match the price to can book a 50,000 mile frequent flyer the distance. But when it comes to ticket from San Miguel to Atlanta frequent flyer tickets, for some reason, on March 1, stop in Atlanta for six airlines see the world as big zones: months, then fly to Madrid to brush North America, Europe, Asia, etc. up on your Spanish before heading This is a windfall for anyone living at back to San Miguel for the winter. the edge of one of these zones. Just to To get the most from your miles, quantify the point, a round-trip econo- you’ll have to spend some time learn- my-class ticket from New York to Lon- ing the ins and outs of various fre- don on Continental costs $497; from quent flyer programs. It took me Mexico City to Istanbul, $1938. But if years and many flights on the Pan you use miles, you’ll pay the same for Am Shuttle to get the hang of these both: 50,000 OnePass miles. Byzantine systems. A good place to For hardcore travelers who ob- start is www.webflyer.com ❚

March 2007 InsideMéxico [ 27 ] Doing A startup company the math

brings solar power to Mexico It would require about $500,000 pesos to take a house entirely off the grid, but even smaller pan- els ($5-$7 USD per Here comes watt, per panel) can reduce your monthly bill. The actual amount of energy generated depends the sun on factors including BY Margot Lee Shetterly pollution, angle of the sun and type of hen it comes to solar energy potential, panel installed. See Mexico is, ahem, light years ahead of www.grupoecos.com. Wmany places in the world. mx for more informa- “Germany is currently number one in terms of solar energy tion, email info@ production, but Mexico gets five times as much sun as Ger- eco-sistemas.com. many,” says Gleb Kouruznetsov, Director General of Grupo mx or call Gleb Kou- ECOS, a Mexico-City based compan dedicated to the produc- ruznetsov at 5681 tion and sale of efficient and alternative energy product. “This is 7126. a huge opportunity for us.” ontero uz M

Formed five years ago by four students and two profes- L sors at Mexico City’s Instituto Tecnológico Autónomo de Villafranca: Solar energy makes environmental and México (ITAM), the company’s mission is to protect the economic sense. environment and contribute to social well-being through the use of energy technologies. stand to benefit most, can be strong. “Some towns see the Alfredo Villafranca is a professor of the Ethics of Develop- lights as a stigma,” says Villafranca. “They say, ‘These are for ment at ITAM and an ECOS partner. He’s worked for years poor people. We want lampposts, like rich people have.’” with non-profits providing services to underserved communi- Kouruznetsov cites what he calls “cortoplazismo”– unwilling- ties and saw starting a business with strong social values as the ness to invest for the long term – on the part of governments best way to extend the impact of sustainable development and corporate executives as another barrier to surmount. But he projects. One of the company’s steadiest sources of revenue remains hopeful, saying he expects the next five years will bring comes from selling solar-powered light “kits” for installation energy reform in Mexico, as well as technological breakthroughs along highways, in remote pueblos and in other areas as of yet and a global explosion in the market for alternative energies. untouched by the electricity grid. Villafranca echoes the optimism, but is frank about the “The effect of bringing light and power to these areas is consequences of a world addicted to carbon-based energy, great. There’s a little restaurant in one of our pueblos, a very and a Mexico which wants its cars, computers and air condi- simple place selling quesadillas. With no electricity, they could tioners, just like its northern neighbors. only work during daylight. Now, the family has doubled their “The demand for power is far outstripping what can be Energy stored during work hours and their income. It’s changed their lives.” delivered,” Villafranca says. “If we don’t do something soon the day shines all night. The cultural resistance, however, even among those who the system is going to break.”

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[ 28 ] InsideMéxico March 2007 farewells

ping show that auctioned Marilyn semi-precious gems. The pals would call the show to bid on a jewel, and crack up Greenwald laughing to hear one another’s voices on the TV. 1924 – 2006 After her husband died in the early 1980s, Marilyn by Catherine Dunn globetrotted on numerous “She loved jokes, loved to travel. group tours and cruises. China, Japan, Hong Kong, She was a real fabulous companion.” Singapore. Germany, Den- – Friend Katharine Miller mark, Sweden, Russia. Marilyn She convinced her sister to icky Sylvan met two Catholic churches) at- Greenwald accompany her to India, a Marilyn Greenwald tracted many Jewish immi- during her country that overwhelmed Vin 1951 or 52. Mari- grants, like the Temples, modeling and affected Marilyn. The lyn was modeling French as well as refugees from days in New place got a hold of her, designer clothes for a the Spanish Civil War. The York. Elaine says, and she came charity fashion show at El Temple sisters went to the back more spiritual. Patio, the it social spot in American School, then on Later, the sisters went to the Centro. Marilyn, says the corner of Insurgentes Egypt, where they floated Vicky, was gorgeous and and San Luis Potosi. Photo courtesy Elaine Menassé down the Nile. On that trip glamorous. After high school, Mari- they visited Jordan and the The two developed a lyn went off to New York. ico City where Jack went Together,Vicky and magnificent carved city friendship that lasted until She became a hat model to work in the Temple Marilyn created the Art of Petra. In Turkey, they Marilyn died Dec. 2, 2006 – “it sounds terribly old- family’s fur and tannery Corner, a charity fund- toured the ruins of Troy. in Mexico City. fashioned,” says her sis- business. The couple had raiser at Beth Israel syna- Marilyn would always Marilyn’s uncle was ter Elaine Menassé – and two sons, Steven, an an- gogue. Forget jams and jel- say, “Let’s go, let’s go,” a man named Martin posed for magazines, in- esthesiologist who lives in lies, they thought. Instead Katharine Miller recalls. Temple, a vegetarian who cluding True Confessions. Chicago, and Mauricio, an the two recruited artists “She wouldn’t even think started a fur business in She also worked for a com- industrial psychologist who to donate works to a good twice.” the Mexico City. Martin’s mission focusing on Latin lives in Mexico City. cause. The Art Corner was Marilyn celebrated her brother, Jack, brought his America issues that was Marilyn made friends a big success and a precur- 80th birthday with her wife, and two young daugh- chaired by Nelson Rock- wherever she went. “Peo- sor to the American School family, including her two ters, Marilyn and Elaine, efeller. ple enjoyed her,” Elaine Art Fair. sons and two grandsons, by here from New York after Marilyn fell in love with says. “That’s an enor- Ever elegant, and a con- taking a cruise that passed the 1929 stock market a co-worker at a New York mous thing – to be enter- summate shopper, Marilyn through the locks of the crash. department store. She and tained, amused, comfort- loved to buy things and Panama Canal. The Temples lived next Jack Greenwald, World able.” Vicky Sylvan echoes loved to give presents. For “She wasn’t a sweet old to Parque México in Hipo- War II vet and Bronx na- Elaine’s assessment. “She kicks, Marilyn and her lady one bit,” Elaine said. dromo. The colonia’s secu- tive, eloped and ended up, was just fun to be around friend Katharine Miller “You don’t have to be sweet lar ambience (it had only after a few years, in Mex- … she had flair.” liked to watch a home shop- to be kind.”

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March 2007 InsideMéxico [ 29 ] Entendemos el mercado extranjero en México porque ¡nosotros somos ese mercado!

¿Estás interesado en llegar al mercado angloparlante en México? ¿no hablas ingles y no estás seguro de cómo comunicar tu mensaje?

¡puede ayudarte!

Desde el concepto hasta el diseño, nos aseguramos de que nuestros clientes obtengan lo mejor de los anuncios que publican.

Contacto: [email protected] Telefono: 55 5574 42 81

[ 30 ] InsideMéxico March 2007 Entendemos el mercado The Back Page extranjero en México porque Gringo, is a gringo, ¡nosotros somos is a gringo, is a gringo?

by Rossana Fuentes-Berain ese mercado! Telling the difference between differences ew Mexicans can talk about the couldn’t believe it. US without at least paying lip ser- How could she have enjoyed their com- F vice to history, and we remember pany if they had voted for Bush? Well, for For when that it was the Grand Old Party of Abra- the same reason our hosts enjoyed hers, ham Lincoln – a Republican – who op- even though she had cast her ballot for posed the 19th century war in which half López Obrador – the personification of the of Mexico’s territory was taken as booty. Big Bad Wolf for the Wall Street-types you want But then again, it was with Democrat around the grill. Bill Clinton that we signed that same We were just enjoying each other’s war’s armistice as NAFTA was being company. No one was trying to pin down passed more than 150 years later. the party loyalties of the other guests and your story And so, when I am asked which US po- judge them for it. litical party’s victory is better for Mexico, Political polarization doesn’t make life my immediate answer is, which Mexico? easy for anyone, and only leads to country A Mexican, is a Mexican, is a Mexican, and culture bashing. Still, political parties told right: is a Mexican? I quote, honoring dear old do it because they think it’ll gain them Gertrude Stein. electoral mileage. But no matter what Personally, I have more Democrats as they claim, no political party – Republi- friends. But I can live pretty well with cans, Democrats, priistas, perredistas or Melwood Republicans from California or the East panistas – represents all Americans or all Coast. Current Texas Republicans, at Mexicans. Democracy be welcomed! least those inhabiting the White House, Within the confines of a stereotype any are harder for me to swallow. simple definition is possible, but look at Global But the fact of the matter is that I truly real human beings and you’ll have a hard- believe both Mexicans and Americans er time showing that, a) all Americans are If you are doing business in Mexico have to be understood in a more personal, greedy and will steal our national goods, and want to become better known to and less partisan, fashion. as well as our dignity if we let them; or b) Washington, D.C. and Mexico City have all Mexicans are corrupt, lazy and always the people in the United States, you entrenched bureaucratic and political bod- ready to deceive an American. need Melwood Global to handle your ¿Estás interesado en llegar al mercado angloparlante en México? ies that try to paint us all in their colors. None of the political parties – here or However, at the end of the day, our identi- there – offer an honest picture of the com- information campaign. ¿no hablas ingles y no estás seguro de cómo comunicar tu mensaje? ties are too complex for simple answers. You plexity of the relationship between our might as well ask, which loves his neigh- two countries. Melwood Global helps its clients attract bour better, a donkey or an elephant? The truth is that Democrats or Re- Speaking of visiting the neighbors, a publicans are as good or as bad for cer- the attention of the media to generate left-leaning Mexican friend of mine (who tain Mexicans, as priistas, perredistas, or positive press coverage. Our clients distrusts anything coming from the US) panistas are for certain Americans. recently joined me on a visit to friends in Democrats and Republicans alike have have included governments, the hotel Cranberry, New Jersey. It’s a small com- attention deficit disorder vis-a-vis Mexi- and hospitality industry, educational munity, with a mixed bag of middle-of-the- cans on both sides of the border. road Republicans and Democrats. Priistas, perredistas and panistas have organizations and private individuals in When we arrived, she couldn’t tell the yet to figure out how to relate to the mil- over 40 countries. difference between them. I could, but then lion or so Americans who live in Mexico, again who cared? We had a wonderful or the many more Mexicans and Mexican- If you want clients, investors or the ¡puede weekend, with lots of good food, conversa- Americans living in the US. ayudarte! tion, and human warmth. So, better to concentrate our analysis general public in the United States to pick On the train back to New York she on how to get past party politics, because up a newspaper and read more about asked if any of those present had voted no matter who is in office, they won’t be for George W. Bush. Probably, I said. She there forever. you and your business in a positive light, Desde el concepto hasta el diseño, nos aseguramos Are we doomed by the fact that our contact us: elected politicians just don’t understand de que nuestros clientes obtengan lo mejor Rossana Fuentes-Berain is that Mexicans and Americans mostly like Managing Editor of the El Universal Op-ed each other? [email protected] de los anuncios que publican. pages and Editorial Board member and founder Not really. I think there is hope, because of Foreign Affairs en Español. She is a member despite all our prejudices, most of us enjoy +1 202 468 9413 of various NGOs working to advance the free- a good mixed party, where Mexicans and All queries remain strictly confidential. dom of access to information in Mexico. Americans of all stripes take themselves, Contacto: [email protected] Telefono: 55 5574 42 81 and each other, at face value.

March 2007 InsideMéxico [ 31 ]

restaurants · bars · shopping ·M u s e u M S & m o r e !

l o o k f o r m o r e Back to School The new Guide page on classes G6 Local Resources c o l l e c t Emergency numbers ’ e m a l l ! to clip & save G4 March Calendar Art attack in the Centro Histórico G5 Classifieds G7

This year marks the centennial of Frida Kahlo’s birth, July 6, 1907 in the Blue House, now a museum that draws droves to the home the painter once shared with husband Diego Rivera. Photo by Luz Montero

San Juan Batutista. “It’s a pueblo Of paseos inside of the city,” he says. Navigating There’s un toque of new-age-hip- oyoacán, a swath of barrios, pueblos and co- pie-haven about Coyoacán (spiritual lonias, is one of Mexico City’s 16 delegaciones. and times past bookstores, henna tattoo artists and CThe Guide focuses on the center of Coyoacán tarot readers) that mingles with the and the surrounding area, where many of the muse- classical cornerstones it’s famous for ums, churches, shops, cafés and markets can be found Coyoacán has been a hit ever (Plaza Santa Catarina, Hernán Cor- along residential streets. since Cortés arrived. Take a tés’s home). On weekends, the Jardín Here you won’t be greeted by a valet parking corps. Centenario and Jardín Hidalgo be- Street parking is commandeered by the “viene, viene” stroll around these streets and come a veritable fair grounds. men and women who’ll wave you into a spot with a it’s easy to see why. Coyoacán history coils around both large rag and expect compensation when you leave. its leyendas and legendary figures. There’re a number of parking lots too, and we’ve high- f the story of Mexico City is, in Hansen recalls the tale of “el náhuatl lighted a few on the map. (Note: Centenario, a main part, one of ravenous expansion, de Coyoacán,” an Aztec who turned street, becomes Tres Cruces at the Jardín Centenario). I Coyoacán, which means “place of into an animal and attacked Span- The main metro stops serving the center are Coyo- the coyotes” in Nahuatl, is a place the iards. “El Sombrerón” was the devil acán, Viveros and Miguel Ángel de Quevedo, all on urban jungle couldn’t quite swallow. disguised as a charro who roamed Línea 3. From the Coyoacán stop you can take a pesero Amble past walled gardens and Fran- Coyoacán’s cow pastures and ranches. or a sitio taxi to the center, and from Viveros it’s a 15 ciscan churches, along cobblestone Star sightings of the past include to 20 minute walk. The Coyoacán tourism office is streets and shaded plazas, and you’ll Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and Leon marked by a star on the map (next page). They’ve got feel like you’ve left DF behind. Trotsky. Some theories put Lee Har- handy local maps and brochures. “You can still smell the country air vey Oswald here before the John F. here,” says Julio Hansen, an accoun- Kennedy assassination. President Coming in April tant who moonlights on weekends as Venustiano Carranza oversaw the a seller of tamales chiapanecos. For writing of the 1917 constitution in Where do you like to go in Las Lomas? 27 years, he and his sisters have been Casa del Sol on Av. Francisco Sosa. What do you like to do, or eat, or buy when you selling the mole-filled specialties on When you’re in the center of Coyo- get there? Email [email protected]. the same corner beside the Parroquia acán, walk. Slowly. It’s good air here. Dining 5. La Salamandra 1980 the Japanese owner All prices listed in Pastas, steaks, salads has preserved Japan’s Mexican pesos Inside México Caballocalco 33 culinay traditions with Credit cards accepted Recommends unless noted 5659 3262 lots of sushi choices. Average cost listed Mo-Th: 1 - 9 pm Bars per person Fri, Sa: 1 - 10:30 pm 12. La Guadalupana Sun: 2 - 7 pm 9. Café de Todo Average cost: $110 Corazón Cantina 1. El Caracol de Oro Try the brochetta. Plas- Francisco Ortega 34-B Higuera 2 Café-restaurant tic picnic tables inside Tue-Sun: 4 pm - 12 am 5554 6253 Higuera 22-B-C and on sidewalk terrace. Cash only Mon - Sat: 1 pm - 12:30 am 5658 9054, 5658 9489 During the busy lunch A chil place with live Sun: closed Mo-Sa: 8:30 am-11:30 pm hour we spotted mem- music and the inviting Sun: 9 am - 10 pm bers of an early ‘90s hum of café-bar chatter. From the eaves of a wood-beamed No American Express Mexican rock band. ceiling, fans turn above the soft Average cost: $115 - $150 10.El Hijo din, and mounted bull heads Try the manzana 6. Los Danzantes del Cuervo watch over the circa-1932 classic. curry, apple wrapped in Contemporary Jardín Centenario 17 Women couldn’t enter in the old chicken with cheese Mexican 5658 7824 days, but now they can order cer- in this buzzing cafetería Jardín Centenario 12 Mo - We: 4 pm - 12 am with an artsy interior and 5554 1213, 5658 6054 Th and Su: 1 pm - 1 am vezas alongside the best of ‘em. a fun soundtack. Su- We: 1:30 - 11 pm Fr, Sa: 1 pm - 2:30/3 am Th: 1:30 pm - 12 am No American Express 2. El Sheik Fr- Sa: 1:30 pm - 1 am www.elhijodelcuervo.com Middle Eastern Average cost: $350 Live music Tues (jazz) Madrid 129 www.losdanzantes.com and Wed (rock). Beer by Walking tour 5659 3311 Try the huitlacoche ravi- the bottle, tarro or jara One of the most enchanting streets in Mo -Su: 8 am - 7 pm oli or the confite de pato in this raucous staple of Mexico City, Francisco Sosa ambles Average cost: $100 en pipián verde. Ask for a the Coyoacán bar scene. along a cobbled course, flanked by Try the kepes and restaurant recommen- choose from 30 dishes dation around here and 11. La Bipolar colorful buildings and walls hiding during the Wed, Sat and favorite Los Danzantes, Malitzin 155 secret gardens. At the corner of Av. Sun buffet, 1:30 - 6 pm. with its cactus-lined pa- 5484 8230 Universidad sits the Capilla of San A pastry counter brims tio and bold murals, rolls Mo - Sa: 1 pm -2 am Penzacola; wander further past the with baklava treats. off the tongue. Breakfast Sun: 1 - 10 pm Casa de Alvarado (Francisco Sosa served Sat and Sun 9:30 Actor Diego Luna 383, pictured right). When you reach 3. El Tajín am - 12:30 pm. (Validated opened this cantina with Mexican alta cocina parking, see Entre Vero) a yummy antojitos res- Plaza Santa Catarina, duck into the M. Á. de Quevedo 687 taurant-bar downstairs chapel, then mosey across the street (Inside the Centro 7. Pepe Coyotes (picnic-table style), to explore the Casa de Cultura Jesús Cultural Veracruzano) Hidalgo 295 and dance floor with Reyes Heroles. Finish up in the Jardín 5659 5759 5659 8902, 5658 0627 good music upstairs. Centenario. Mo- Fr: 1 - 6 pm Mo-Su: 8 am - 2 am Coyoacán hot-spot of Sa-Su: 1 - 7 pm Cash only the moment.

Average cost: $250 www.suguiadf.com MONTERO LUZ PHOTOGRAPHY: Try the crab meat soup Get huge portions of 13. La Posta and the amaranto- beef, chicken or seafood Italian restaurant-bar *Note: 15. La Botica, an with your coffee. You Choose your own coffee want to take charge. coated chicken. Alicia alambres, along with Pacifico 292 outpost of the popular can grab a bench or cup in this nook of a You’ll spy stands for Gironella De’Angeli’s tacos and camarones a 5554 5538 mezcalería chain in Roma table at two other locals: spot. Pizzas, sandwiches, esquites (corn in a cup) kitchen delivers sabores la diabla. They also have Mon - Sat: 1:30 pm - 12 and Condesa, located Av. México 25 & 163-B salads and a flour-less churros (fried dough antiguos in this quiet, a stand in Mercado am, Sun: 1:30 - 6 pm on Presidente Carranza, www.cafeeljarocho.com.mx brownie on the menu. rolled in sugar), and refined dining room. Coyoacán (see 22). www.restaurantelaposta. corner of Carrillo Puerto chicharrón (a fried snack, com.mx and 16. Dao, an Asian 18. Café Bizarro 21. Moheli Cafetería that’s all we’ll say). 4. Entre Vero 8. Taro Terrace and bar make restaurant and bar-lounge Cuauhtémoc 168 y Delicatessen Uruguayan Japanese a pleasant evening or at Av. México 59, were 5659 8453 Francisco Sosa 1 22. Mercado Jardín Centenario 14-C Restaurant-Bar daytime stop. clausurados at the time Mo - Sa: 9 am - 10:30 pm 55554 6221 Coyoacán 5659 0066 Av. Universidad 1861 of publication, but Inside Sun: 10 am - 10:30 pm Su-We: 8 am - 10:30 pm Allende, between Ma- Mo-Th: 1:30 - 11 pm 5661 4083, -4204 14. Mesón México would love to go Oaxacan coffee with a Th-Sa: 8 am - 11 pm lintzin and Xicoténcatl Fr-Sa: 1:30 pm - 12 am Mo, Tu, Th: 1 - 10:30pm del Buen Tunar have a drink there… when goth touch. No American Express Mo-Su: 8 am - 6 pm Su: 1:30 pm - 11 pm Fr, Sat: 1-11 pm Jardín Centenario 4-2 they’re open. Prices: Americano $16, What to try: Tostados Average cost: $300 Sun: 1-9 pm (in the passage next to Cafes 19. La Selva Café bagels, sandwiches and Coyoacán, a stand in - $400 Wed: closed San Juan Bautista) Jardín Centenario 4-3 entrees $46 - $74 the center heralded by a Try the cortes a la par- Average cost: $200 5554 2635 17. Café El Jarocho www.laselvacafe.com.mx Sip on a strong cup of giant yellow banner; La rilla, grilled steaks. An www.restaurantetaro.com Mo- Su: 10 am - 12 am Av. Cuahtemoc 134 A hip, bustling hideaway. coffe under the sidewalk Regional, towards the Informal bistro on the Try the yakiniku,meats Cash only Mo-Sun: 6 am – 2 am trellis or inside. back, for fine cheeses; 20. Los Bizcochitos main plaza but, like Los andseafood prepared at A relaxed bar with Cash only Antojos Pepe Coyotes (Local Danzantes, one of the your table wooden tables inside Famous for its good, de Coyoacán 257), with its cheap and nicer restaurants in the Though tecnically not in and out where students cheap coffee, there’s Presidente Carranza 291 Walk around the Jardín fillingcomida corrida. area. (Validated parking coyaocan, it’s so close, drink endless pitchers usually a fast-moving 5554 6528 Centenario and Jardín El Jardín de Pulpo, on lot on Tres Cruces, cor- and so good, we had to of draft beer. A classic, line out the door. Be Mo-Su: 9 am - 8 pm Hidalgo on the weekend the outside corner of ner of B. Domínguez) include it. Established in been around a long time. sure to have a churro Cash only and your tummy will Allende and Malitzin

[ G2 ] InsideMéxico March 2007 26 Rio Churubusco Coyoacán 50 Bruselas 34 Fc Madrid Abasol Priv o. Ce Divición de

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Za sc Pa ata untamient Xo M. A. QUEVEDO E T 29 chilc cí 31 Ay ati fico es Cruces tl 8 32 Tr a ca Migu i 13 Africa i el Angel de As pa Amér Quevedo ro 3 Eu 38 has excellent seafood 26. Centro Coyoacán 32. The Green 35. Museo Nacional Parks & Plazas 44. Viveros dance (such as flamen- (though not cheap by Mall Corner de Culturas de Coyoacán co and jazz), art, music, Populares 39. Jardín market standards). Also Av. Coyoacán 2000 Organic Centenario Open Mon – Sun, 6 am film, yoga and massage. several stalls worth of Su-Th: 11 am - 8 pm M. A. de Quevedo 353 Av. Hidalgo 289 – 6 pm the park has an children’s costumes Fr, Sa: 11 am - 9 pm Mo-Su: 7:30 am - 10 pm 5554 8968, 56 58 12 65 The plaza that com- excellent 2100-meter 48. Escuela Activa along Allende. Home delivery: We-Th: 10 am - 6 pm memorated Mexico’s loop for runners and de Fotografía, 27. Ecotienda One of the bigger Fr-Sun: 10 am - 8 pm first century in 1910 fills walkers. A grid of garden Coyoacán 23. “Mercado Organic and natural organic grocery stores Free entry with vendors’ tents and pathways and green Presidente Carranza 138 de la Comida” products around, browse the Displays of popular carts on the weekends. patches fills the space 5659 7261 Higuera, almost at the Av. México 134 aisles for peanut butter, culture and Mexican The coyote fountain between. The entrance www.eaf.edu.mx corner of Caballocalco 5554 8040 honey, cheeses and traditional customs. in the middle makes a to the plant nursery Mon - Sun: 8 am - 11 pm Mo- Fr: 8 am - 9 pm, Sa: 8 cereals. The company’s Trollay tours of Coyoacán good picture spot. (Mo– Su, 10 am – 6 49. Instituto This market doesn’t am - 7 pm, Sun: 8 am - 5 pm restaurant above, depart in front Mon-Fri pm) is at the corner of Italiano di Cultura have a real name, but Fruits, veggies, meats with big salads and 10 am -5 pm, Sat & Sun 11 40. Plaza Hidalgo Melchor Ocampo and Francisco Sosa 77 you’ll know it by all the and gluten-free bread other natural fare on the am - 6 pm. Flanked by the 18th Av. México. 5554 0044 counters and stands menu, overlooks the century Casa Municipal, Classes &Culture www.iic.org.mx proffering quesadillas, 28. Empacadora store. 36. Museo Nacional food vendors galore Study Italian, and cook- Selva Negra de las Intervenciones 45. Casa de Cultura tostadas, pozole, flautas, Museums gather on weekends. ing, through the Italian tamales, tacos and Cold meats Calle 20 de agosto and The kiosko, donated by Jesús Reyes Embassy’s cultural of- jugos. Local 14 is famous Mina 7 33. Museo Frida General Anaya Porfirio Díaz, plays stage Heroles fice. The library contain- for its fried quesadillas, 5658 3305, 5658 3314 Kahlo 5604 0699 to various musicians Francisco Sosa 202 ing 21,000 books, 120 and you’ll find healthier Londres 247 Tu-Su: 9 am-6 pm (talent varies). 5659 3937 Italian magazines and a toasted ones (a comal) 29. La Castellana 5554 5999 Entry: $37 Theatre performance video/DVD collection on the left-hand side, Wine shop Tu-Su: 10 am - 5:45 pm Inside the exconvento 41. Parroquia de and classes: dance, art, is open Mo-Fr, 10 am second puesto from the Melchor Ocampo 307 Entry: $30 de Churubusco 13 gal- San Juan Bautista woodworking, language, - 3:30 pm. entry. 5554 1170, -1171 You’ll tour past some leries illustrate foreign The Franciscans con- literature, photography. Mo-Th: 9 am - 8 pm of the artist’s paintings, invasions into Mexico. structed Coyoacán’s The large tree-filled 50. Teatro Bar 24. Siberia Fr, Sa: 9 am – 10 pm clothes and kitchen main cathedral begin- garden is perfect for El Vicio Plaza Jardín del Cente- Su: 9 am – 4 pm crockery. 37. Museo Nacional ning in the mid-1500s. hiding away with a book Madrid 13 nario, next to Sanborns www.lacastellana.com de la Acuarela or buying a piece of 5659 1139 Mo- Fr: 9 am - 9 pm Wine tastings, catas, 34. Museo Leon Salvador Novo 88 42. Plaza and Capilla eclectic sculpture. www.elvicio.com.mx Sa, Su: 9 am - 10 pm Friday afternoons after 3 Trotsky 5554 1801 de Santa Catarina A cabaret-bar that puts Cash only pm. Call for details. Av Churubusco 410 Tu-Su: 10 am - 6pm The small plaza and 46. Centro Cultural on political satire shows Helados, nieves and 5658 8732 Free entry slightly haphazardly Benemérito run by Las Reinas Chu- paletas 30. La Factoria Tu-Su: 10 am - 5 pm Portrays the tecnical decorated chapel are de Las Americas las. Buy tickets at the Jardín Centenario 16 Shopping Gourmet goods Entry: $30 use of water color and gems along Francisco door, We-Su. The Teatro Francisco Sosa 243-B Trotsky and his family it’s history in Mexican Sosa. Upstairs you’ll find La Capilla is on the same 25. Pino 6 5659 2333 took refuge here dur- painting. books and binders on plaza. Call 3095 4077 for This is the address of Mo-Su: 11 am - 8 pm ing his Mexico exile. 43. Plaza and Capilla the history and legends information. a small corridor that Chocolates, cheeses, The Russian revolu- 38. Museo de La Conchita of Coyoacán. houses Aranzazu cake teas and deli meats tionary dodged bullets Anahuacalli Study the architectural 51. Teatro Santa bakery (Mo- Su: 8 am here once, but was Calle Museo 150 details on the church, 47. Centro Cultural Catarina - 8 pm) and Galeria 103 31. Larre stabbed with an ice 5617 4310 across from the Hernán Los Talleres Plaza Santa Catarina 10 with a neat collection of Fishing gear and pick Aug. 20, 1940. He Tu - Su: 10:30 am - 5 pm Cortés residence (pri- Franciso Sosa 29 5658 0560 art for sale. excursions died Aug. 21. Entry: $45 vately owned), the red 5658 7288, 5339 5103 www.teatro.unam.mx M. Á. de Quevedo 486 Diego Rivera’s collection house on the corner of www.lostalleres.com.mx Another find on the 5659 8823 of pre-Hispanic artifacts. Higuera and Vallarta. Classes offerings include charming plaza.

March 2007 InsideMéxico [ G3 ] Phone Directory All telephone numbers are local to Mexico City. City area code: 55 Country code: 52 Emergencies Where Ambulances, firefighters and police: 080 to pick Police: 060 Red Cross: 060 up your Aerial ambulances: 5705 0925 Intensive therapy free ambulances: 5673 2555 ERUM: 5722 8805, 5722 8800 of Inside Rescue Squad and Medical Emergencies Water leaks: 5295 2891 Gas leaks: 5277 0422 copy México Human Rights At more than 200 points around the country! Commission: 5229 5600 INSIDE MEXICO’S IN: MEXICO CITY Altavista Giornale Caffé • Santa Fe Café Bosques de Las Lomas Sante Fe Café Tourism Centro Santa Fe Café • Museo de Arte Popular • Museo Nacional de los Ferrocarriles Mexicanos • Gran Melia Hotel • Hotel Ritz • Fiesta Infotur: 5525 9380 Americana Reforma • Sheraton Centro • Italian Coffee Company • Grand Hotel Ciudad de México • Holiday Inn Zócalo Condesa Condesa Secretary of Tourism’s DF • Libreria Rosario Castellanos • Elodia y Sus Bondades • Pata Negra • St. Patrick’s Pub • Malafama • 50 Friends • Agapi Mu • Bistrot Tourist Orientation and Information Services Continental • Bistrot Mosaico • Café La Gloria • Capicua • Don Keso • El 10 • Ligaya • Mibon • Orquideas • Parrillada Uruguaya Don Asado • Benito Juárez Interna- Rojo Bistro • Segundo Paso • Frutos Prohibidos y Otros Placeres • La Buena Tierra • Coffee Shop El Hijo del Santo • La Esquina del T • Piccolo tional Airport: 5571 3600 Toscano Café • The Village Caf • 5 L-Mento • Artefacto • Colectivo 7 • El Milagrito • Modifica• Black Horse • Cinna Bar • El Mitote • El Jamil • La Selva Café • Café la Glori • Barracuda Dine • Nuvo Sush • American Legio • Pajaros en el Alambre • Hivisa Viajes Coyoacán Hotel Real Embassies del Sur Cuauhtémoc Marquis Reforma • Sheraton Maria Isabel • British Embassy • Japanese Embass • US Embassy Guadalupe Inn Australian Embassy Nacional Financiera • The Italian Coffee Compan Héroes de Padiema Camino Real Pedregal Insurgentes The Italian Coffee Company 1101 2200 Interlomas Giornale Caffé Jardines del Pedregal Santa Fe Café Jardines en la Montañ Hotel Royal Pedregal Juárez Mission British Embassy Reforma Ciudad de Mexico • Biblioteca Benjamin Franklin • Italian Coffee Plaza La Escalera Hotel y Centro de Negocios Torre Lindavista 5242 8500 Consular section and Las Americas The American School Lomas de Chapultepec The American Benevolent Society • Santa Fe Café • Coldwell Banker emergencies involving British Napoles Hotel Beverly • Hotel Residencial Rochester Navarte The Italian Coffee citizens Company Palmas Giornale Caffé Parques del Pedregal Colegio de Ingenieros Envianos un correo y encuentra Canadian Embassy Civiles de México Polanco Hotel Casa Vieja • Hotel Residencial Polanco • Hotel W • las ventajas de ser 5724 7900 JW Marriott Hotel • Centro Educativo Multidisciplinario-UNAM • L’Actualite Internationale distribuidor de Inside México. Consular Section: 5724 7900 ext. 3322 • Estetica Polanco • The Break • Adonis • Bellaria • Chez Wok • Como • Entrevinos • Become a distributor of Inside Fishers • Izote • La Valentina • Le Bouchon • L’Olivier • Lox • MP Café Bistr • Non Solo Emergencies involving México. Email us and discover Pasta • Restaurante Spuntino • Thai Gardens • Tori Tori • Villa Maria • Area Bar and Canadians, country-wide telephone: Terrace • Bua • Gendarmeria de Don Quintin • Karisma Cantina • Camino Real • Riedel the benefits. [email protected] 01 800 706 2900 Wine Bar • Artemis • Fiesta Americana Grand Chapultepec • French Embassy • German French Embassy Embassy • New Zealand Embassy Prados de la Montana The Westhill Institute & Consulate General Roma Casa Lamm • Café de Carlo • Casa de la Condesa • La Casona • Alliant Universit • Kong San Ángel Bazar del Sábado San Pedro 9171 9700 de los Pinos Holiday Inn Trade Center San Rafael Hotel Stella Maris Santa Cruz Atoyac Hotel Royal Plaza Santa Fe Cámara Irish Embassy Mexicano-Alemana de Comercio e Industria • Centro de Investigación Y Docencia Económicas • Giornale Caffé • Bistrot Mosaico • Brássica • 5520 5803 Cabo Blanco • El Buen Bife • Antonella • Bread & Co. • La Selva Café • La Buena Tierra • Ruben’s Hamburgers • Moshi Moshi • The Anglo German Embassy • Sheraton Suites Santa Fe San Jeronimo Lídice Pedregal Palace Tabacalera La Selva Café Tacubaya Radisson Hotel Flamingos 5283 2200 Japanese Embassy Tlalpan La Selva Café Vista Hermosa Santa Fe Caf Mexico City International Airpor Hilton • Camino Real • Ramada • Fiesta Inn 5211 0028, 5514 4507 ALSO IN: Monterrey Libeko Plaza 401 •Libeko Lázaro Cárdenas • Instituto Columbia • Galeria del Gourmet • Gourmet Mexicano • New Zealand Embassy Bier Stube Riviera maya/ PUERTO MORELOS Café de Amancia • Hola Asia • Libreria Alma Libre • Restaurante Posada Amor • Tuna 5283 9460 Beach • Casita Blanca PUERTO VALLARTA • MERIDA • OAXACA • MONTERREY • CANCUN • GUADALAJARa • ISLA United States Embassy HOLBOx • CUERNAVACA • SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE • TEPOZTLAN • LOS CABOS • ENSENADA • 5080 2000 Consular services and after-hours emergencies

[ G4 ] InsideMéxico March 2007 march

Unhappy family, Union Church First Day of Spring 1dancing Av. Paseo de la Reforma Anna Karenina 1870 Start your garden right. The plant The St. Petersburg Ballet Second Friday of the nurseries at Viveros in Coyoacán sell Palacio de Bellas Artes month: 9am-12 pm. tulips, roses, bougainvillea, azaleas, 8 p.m. Tel. 5520 6912 herbs, fountains and more. Tickets: Ticketmaster Education Exposición Permanente de Floricul- www.bellasartes.gob.mx UK 2007 More shows March 3 & 4 10 tores y Viveristas Eréndira Hotel Camino Real Melchor Ocampo, 2 Ikikunari Salón Terraza Virreyes Where More than 35 British corner of Av. México Film debut institutions participate Col. Del Carmen Mon - Sun: 10 am - 6 pm Cinemark, Cinemex and in the education fair 21 Cinepolis theatres Register: www. Director Juan Mora britishcouncil.org.mx Catlett’s rendition of March 10 & 11. You Conquest destruction in can also register for precolombian Mexico. interviews held March 12 www.erendira.com.mx Totalmente Feria del Libro 14 de moda 3book reading Fashion Week México Peregrina: mi idilio socialista con Felipe Hotel Camino Real Carrillo Puerto Fall-Winter 2007 Palacio de Minería Shows by Mexico’s top 5 pm designers Commentary on the www.fashionweekmexico.com XXIII Festival de México autobiography of Alma March 14 - 16 Reed, one of Mexico’s A life in en el Centro Histórico most famous expats. pictures Speakers include Elena 17 1300 creative types in Delirio Íntimo Poniatowska and Miguel music, theatre, dance and Capistrán. Part of the Theatrical homage to visual arts sweep through Feria Internacional del Frida Kahlo 15-31 the Centro. Libro del Palacio de Teatro Casa de la Paz www.fchmexico.com Minería. Cozumel 32, Roma Feb 22 - March 4 7 pm, tickets: $80 pesos http://feria.mineria. 5286 0403 Oaxaca Monterrey Lake Chapala unam.mx More shows March 18 & Around Jazz with guest Roger Waters “Quilters” From the heart 25 (6 pm),23 (8 pm), 24 pianist The Pink Floyd founder jams Lakeside Little Theatre (7 pm) Susan Creamer Estadio Universitario 7:30 pm 3Nonviolent the Country communication Martes de March 4 de Monterrey March 1 - 6 workshop Cinebar Casa Colonial 9 pm Info: email Amy Friend, Presented by Roberta 20 4 - 6 pm March 2 [email protected] San Miguel de Allende Wall, lawyer and Lunario, located next to Tickets: Ticketmaster meditation teacher Auditorio Nacional Duets, a marriage The Day of Spring Concert: CasaLuna Films at 7 and 9:30 pm of good food and the Good Semana Santa “The Spirit of 6 - 8 pm, cost: $200 pesos Cost: $50/ both shows fine music Samaritan Cora Living and Dying” Popócatepetl 20, www.lunario.com.mx Classicial music on side- Guelaguetza, traditional Photo and documentary Los Cantantes del Lago Condesa Every Tuesday night by-side Yamaha pianos ac- music and folk dance exposition on the pre-Easter community choir balebusta@casaluna. Red Bull X- companied by home-made March 16 traditions of Nayarit’s Cora Time TBD org.mx Fighters ’07 Mexican cuisine. Llano Park people. March 23 - 25 23 March 22 & 29 10 am Museo Ciudad Guadalupe Info: Georgina Russell, “Tepito Motocross Free Style 6 – Bravo, Casa Crayola For information on Oaxaca (81) 8007 6530 (376) 766 1007, el barrio!” Plaza de Toros México Ticjets: $250 pesos cultural events: email Mar- Tues - Sun: 9 am - 6 pm cantantesdellago@gmail. 8:30 pm Reservations: carly@go- gie Barclay, barclayma@ Admission: $5/children, com Metro Auditorio, Línea 7 Tickets: Ticketmaster mexart.com, (415) 152 8900 aol.com $10/adults 10 large photos by www.redbullxfighters.com Francisco Mata of Bingo! Mexico’s most famous Blanco The members. Renew or buy Mexpat All prices listed in Mexican 24 Bingo pesos. barrio 24 y negro 28 American your membership before 28 Mix, mingle and For Ticketmaster sales, Feb. 2 - April 4 American Legion Ricky Martin Society of Mexico the event. milk the cash bar call 5325 9000 or visit Newcomers 4:30 - 6:30 pm Black and White Tour General Assembly Info: 5277 5875, Mon-Fri 8 pm www.ticketmaster.com.mx 9Club Celaya 25, Condesa. Palacio de los Deportes U.S. Ambassador’s 9 am - 5 pm Find out where: Got a date? Genaral meeting and $30/10 games 8 pm Residence Email: www.mexpat.com Tell us about it. membership sign-up 5564 4490 Tickets: Ticketmaster 7 - 9:30 pm americansociety2005@ Last Wednesday of Send announcements to Only American Society prodigy.net every month [email protected]

March 2007 InsideMéxico [ G5 ] Security Corner Smart safety advice from one of Mexico’s leading authorities Back by Mario González-Román to School Getting around, safe and sound You look both ways when you MONTERO ERICK ARTE: cross the street; here’s what to note before you get in a cab

Mario Gonázlez-Román is a member of the Security Experts Council of the New York-based Gerson Lehrman Group. For 28 years he worked at the US Embassy in Mexico, where he served the State Department’s Diplomatic Security Service and held the position of Foreign Service National Senior Advisor for Secu- rity. He is available as a private security consultant, and shares Náhuatl his public security expertise on his website www.securitycorner- mexico.com. His email is [email protected]. the language Don Mario’s Taxi Tips • Never, ever enter a roving green taxi. that bore • If desperate for a ride, and you want to get a cab on the street, wait until a passenger is dropped off and you see that money is paid to the driver. the name • If new to Mexico, call a city-wide radio taxi service. Here’s a number I use: 5516 6020. • If a resident, identify your closest sitio. Sitios are secure taxi stands. Some to know: • Condesa at Parque México: 5286 7129 • Behind US Embassy/Sheraton Hotel: 5514 9165 •Mérida 145 in Roma: 5574 3368, 5574 4596 & 97 México • Lomas de Chapultepec at S. Madre/Reforma: By Gibran Raya 5520 2159 • Reforma/Palmas: 5245 1016 ears ago, while visiting a rural town in Náhuatl class: Saturdays 3 to 4:15 pm • Know your exact location before you call. If you’re not at Estado de México, a local man asked me if I home, it’s best to call from a hotel or restaurant. Yspoke “Méxicano.” Though fluent in Span- Aztec Calendar class: • Tell the taxi driver the street name and number of your ish I was accustomed to missing the meaning of 4:15 to 5:30 pm destination, along with the names of cross streets, the the double-entendres commonly used by many colonia and the delegación. folks I spoke to, and so I held my answer for a few Cost: $30 pesos per class • Sit in the back, where you have better visibility. moments, trying to figure out what joke or pun Note: The classes are conducted in Spanish • Upon entering the vehicle always lock both back doors. would follow. Address: Palma 20, Interior 28 (corner of • Close personal contact with a driver who must concen- “Sí, hablo Méxicano, señor,” I finally replied. Cinco de Mayo), one block from the Zócalo trate on his work is not recommended. In return the elder began speaking in a native Teacher: José Luis Chávez Martínez Xolotl • If you’re riding at night, turn around occasionally to make tongue that I could not even begin to decipher. 044 55 5172 0039 sure no one is following you. Then I realized this was no punch line set-up; the [email protected] • Prepare your fare just before making a full stop man was simply sliding into the original language Xolotl also gives private instruction • When getting out, make sure you’re where you want to most commonly spoken by natives to this land, be, and that strangers aren’t waiting for you. Náhuatl, the idiom that bore the name for this • Drivers welcome tips, and it’s especially nice to give them nation and its people. Right, he said and then asked if we knew how to if you use the same sitio service regularly (I know my driver Born here and raised in New York City, I always say that in Náhuatl. He explained that the first in Condesa by name). worked to know more of my native land on sum- root of the language’s name is “Na” and “NaNa” • Every Christmas, give your regular driver a small gift. mer and winter holiday visits. Eventually I realized is used for “grandma” and sometimes for • Never leave home with credit cards if riding in non-sitio that delving deeper into my roots meant acquir- “mother.” “Huatl” means root, language and/or taxis. ing some of the ancient knowledge that underlies all that encompasses us. the physical and spiritual reality here. Thus, I had The word “Náhuatl” reflects the language’s po- to learn “real Méxicano”. etic multiplicity; it also stands for order, strength, This proved difficult in New York. I found a few flowering, growth and expansion. Náhuatl booklets, but they were hard to learn Understanding Náhuatl will enable me to start from. Here, acquaintances referred me to a forming a truer sense of the city I live in. Though teacher. the capital’s name has several translations, it is “What is the first word that almost all babies commonly explained as “place of the maguey’s babble?” he asked us during the first class. umbilical cord – located next to the stone bed of “Ma” or “MaMa,” we answered almost in uni- prickly pears.” That’s México-Tenochtitlan, in son. real “Méxicano.”

[ G6 ] InsideMéxico March 2007 It’s Call now: (52) (55) 5574 4281 • Email: [email protected] Free!

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March 2007 InsideMéxico [ G7 ] the bazaar is your marketspace! Reserve your space for the April issue: Call Alex Xolalpa 044 55 2519 9591 C M Y CM MY CY CMY K

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[ G8 ] InsideMéxico March 2007