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Paper 2: the Woollen Cloth Industry in the Lim Valley © Richard Bull & Lyme Regis Museum Revised with Extra Images July 2015
Industrial Lyme - Paper 2: The Woollen Cloth Industry in the Lim Valley © Richard Bull & Lyme Regis Museum Revised with extra images July 2015 Like all research, this is on-going. If you know more, or are descended from any of the families involved, please get in touch with the author via Lyme Regis Museum. Summary Woollen cloth has been made in the Lim Valley from at least medieval times, but this paper is more about the factories in Lyme Regis and Uplyme that made high-quality West of England coat cloths. The factories in Lyme were bankrupt in 1847, leaving the Uplyme factory to soldier on against Yorkshire competition until it was destroyed by fire in 1866, whilst being modernised. In Lyme the factories were started up again in the 1850s to make silk thread and hemp twine, but only for a short period; these are the subjects of other papers in this series. This paper contains: the background to the trade, the history of the factories and a walking trail to see the mills. Cloth making – the essential process in a nutshell Sheep fleeces are packed on the farm into big canvas bags called woolsacks. At the factory the fleeces are scoured (washed) to remove lanolin (wool- grease), dirt and adhering vegetable material. Then the fleeces are scribbled (torn up into pieces), combed and carded to produce rovings, long strips of wool ready for spinning. Washed and combed fleece being fed into a carding machine at Coldharbour Mill, Uffculme, Devon Industrial Lyme Paper 2 – The Woollen Cloth Industry © R Bull & Lyme Regis Museum 1 Spinning means to draw out and twist - and by this process the scales of the individual wool fibres lock together to produce a thread known as a single. -
Filage Et Tissage (2)
FILAGE ET TISSAGE (2) LINGUA È TECNICA LEXIQUE Français-Corse Réalisé par : ANTONDUMENICU MONTI Et MARIE-CHARLES ZUCCARELLI Traduzzione inglese d'Anghjula Maria Carbuccia Spinning and weaving ADECEC CERVIONI 1980 accrochage : azzingatura, azzinghera, azzinghime / warp and woof interlinking accrocher : azzingà / to interlink (warp and woof) aiguille : acu / needle aiguillée : curata, podana, acata, acughjata / needleful alépine : aleppina / bombazine alpaga : alpagà / alpaca alun : (teinture) : alume / alum alunage : alumatura / aluming aluner : alumà amidon : su(g)u / starch anacoste : arscottu / double-milled, woollen cloth apprêt (pour les étoffes) : approntu / finishing apprêter : appruntà / to finish armoisin : ermisinu / sarcenet armure (de tissage) : armatura.- fundamentale, semplice, cumposa, fattizia, dirivata, di fantasia, alluciata, guardrata, diritta (toile), à spichjoli (en losanges), à filetti (sergé), ) spighe (chevrons) / weave - foundation, simple, combined, sham, derived, fancy, open-work, square, plain, lozenge-shaped, serge-like; chevron pattern aspe ou asple : aspa / silk winder assouplir (les chemises et draps de lin) : derozà / to supple, to smooth attacher : attaccà, appiccià, alliacciulà / to tie baignage : bagnatura, bagnime / dye-bath, soaking baigner : bagnà / to soak bain : striscia, fascia, banda / dye-bath bande : striscia, fascia, banda / strip barège : baresgiu / light woollen cloth, barege bariolage : frisgiulime / medley of colours, motley pattern barioler : frisgiulà, frisgià, framisgià / to paint or -
Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 36, No. 3 Michael Colby
Ursinus College Digital Commons @ Ursinus College Pennsylvania Folklife Magazine Pennsylvania Folklife Society Collection Spring 1987 Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 36, No. 3 Michael Colby Donald Graves Monica Pieper William T. Parsons Ursinus College Helen Urda Smith Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.ursinus.edu/pafolklifemag Part of the American Art and Architecture Commons, American Material Culture Commons, Christian Denominations and Sects Commons, Cultural History Commons, Ethnic Studies Commons, Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons, Folklore Commons, Genealogy Commons, German Language and Literature Commons, Historic Preservation and Conservation Commons, History of Religion Commons, Linguistics Commons, and the Social and Cultural Anthropology Commons Click here to let us know how access to this document benefits oy u. Recommended Citation Colby, Michael; Graves, Donald; Pieper, Monica; Parsons, William T.; and Smith, Helen Urda, "Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 36, No. 3" (1987). Pennsylvania Folklife Magazine. 116. https://digitalcommons.ursinus.edu/pafolklifemag/116 This Book is brought to you for free and open access by the Pennsylvania Folklife Society Collection at Digital Commons @ Ursinus College. It has been accepted for inclusion in Pennsylvania Folklife Magazine by an authorized administrator of Digital Commons @ Ursinus College. For more information, please contact [email protected]. I------.w'l_____ -----,.-~ ~tnn~ lJ {vania oeoeoeoeoeoeoeoeoeoeo ul Ii e (tontril1utor~ MI C HAEL COLBY, a teacher in the Bethlehem A rea School District, a nd DO ALD G RAVES, a freela nce wri ter for the Bethlehem Globe Times a nd Early American Life magazine, are deeply in volved in 18th century life a nd traditions. T hey have bee n growing a nd ha nd -processing fl ax- spinning, dyeing a nd weaving the fi ber into cloth as was done by the settlers in colonial Pennsylva nia- a nd have been connected with the Jacobsburg Environmental Center a nd Historic Bethlehem, Inc. -
Architectural Digest the International Magazine of Interior Design March 2005
ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST THE INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE OF INTERIOR DESIGN MARCH 2005 Clint d Eastwoo Masterminds His Golf Club in Carmel Designer Marjorie Shushan, along with architect Thomas M. Kirch hoff, conceived a 6,500-square-foot residence for James and Eleanor Woolems in Palm Beach, Florida. Garrow Kedigian was the interior architect. LEIT: The living room. Chelsea Editions drapery fabric. alm Beach! Rattan! Pink and green! Bring on the hibiscus! On second thought, maybe not. P"Haven't we seen enough houses in Palm Beach that are oom-pah-pah?" Marjorie Shushan asks. Never one for an insistent beat, this interior designer believes in the power of subtlety, in a buttery-soft atmosphere that leaves her clients feeling all wrapped up in a cash mere throw, preferably a beige one. "Peace, quiet and some luxury" is what she says most of us want. It does sound rather nice, doesn't it? "I had no idea how luxurious it would be," says Eleanor Woolems, after months of touching the sensual fabrics that are the designer's signature, and waking up in a big downy bed encircled by matelasse draperies, and nestling into furniture from Shushan's secret source in Los An geles. She and her husband, James, enjoy these luxuries year-round; they are full time residents-natives, in fact-of this winter resort. He is a contractor who builds and renovates residences; she has been selling real estate here for 15 years. Their new 6,500-square-foot house in the quiet North End was designed for them by the architect Thomas M . -
Fragile Spectres: How Women of Victorian Britain Used the Occult
FRAGILE SPECTRES: HOW WOMEN OF VICTORIAN BRITAIN USED THE OCCULT AND SPIRITUALIST MOVEMENT TO CREATE AUTONOMY A Thesis Presented to The Faculty of the College of Arts and Sciences Florida Gulf Coast University In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirement for the Degree of Master of Arts By Danielle Jean Drew 2017 APPROVAL SHEET This thesis is submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts Danielle Jean Drew Approved: April 19, 2017 Committee Chair / Advisor Committee Member 1 Committee Member 2 Committee Member 3 The final copy of this thesis has been examined by the signatories, and we find that both the content and the form meet acceptable presentation standards of scholarly work in the above mentioned discipline. 1 Table of Contents Acknowledgements 3 Introduction 4 Chapter 1 11 The Spiritualist Movement in London Chapter 2 24 The Lady and the Medium: Spiritualism and Women in the Nineteenth Century Chapter 3 37 Middle Class Mediums: A New Vocation for Victorian Women Chapter 4 50 Finding New Life in Art: Medium and Artist Georgiana Houghton Chapter 5 66 Medium, Editor, and Inspiration: Emma Hardinge Britten and the Spiritualist Movement Chapter 6 83 Rosa Campbell Praed: Theosophy, Feminism, Authorship, and Autonomy at the Turn of the Century Conclusion 98 Bibliography 102 2 Acknowledgements There are many people that I am grateful to and would like to acknowledge in the completion of this Master’s thesis. The first thank you belongs to my mother, who has supported me emotionally and mentally through these past two years, providing me with words of wisdom and encouragement when I wanted to give up. -
The Complete Costume Dictionary
The Complete Costume Dictionary Elizabeth J. Lewandowski The Scarecrow Press, Inc. Lanham • Toronto • Plymouth, UK 2011 Published by Scarecrow Press, Inc. A wholly owned subsidiary of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. 4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706 http://www.scarecrowpress.com Estover Road, Plymouth PL6 7PY, United Kingdom Copyright © 2011 by Elizabeth J. Lewandowski Unless otherwise noted, all illustrations created by Elizabeth and Dan Lewandowski. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Lewandowski, Elizabeth J., 1960– The complete costume dictionary / Elizabeth J. Lewandowski ; illustrations by Dan Lewandowski. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references. ISBN 978-0-8108-4004-1 (cloth : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-0-8108-7785-6 (ebook) 1. Clothing and dress—Dictionaries. I. Title. GT507.L49 2011 391.003—dc22 2010051944 ϱ ™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992. Printed in the United States of America For Dan. Without him, I would be a lesser person. It is the fate of those who toil at the lower employments of life, to be rather driven by the fear of evil, than attracted by the prospect of good; to be exposed to censure, without hope of praise; to be disgraced by miscarriage or punished for neglect, where success would have been without applause and diligence without reward. -
IS 2364 (1987): Glossary of Textile Terms - Woven Fabrics [TXD 1: Physical Methods of Tests]
इंटरनेट मानक Disclosure to Promote the Right To Information Whereas the Parliament of India has set out to provide a practical regime of right to information for citizens to secure access to information under the control of public authorities, in order to promote transparency and accountability in the working of every public authority, and whereas the attached publication of the Bureau of Indian Standards is of particular interest to the public, particularly disadvantaged communities and those engaged in the pursuit of education and knowledge, the attached public safety standard is made available to promote the timely dissemination of this information in an accurate manner to the public. “जान का अधकार, जी का अधकार” “परा को छोड न 5 तरफ” Mazdoor Kisan Shakti Sangathan Jawaharlal Nehru “The Right to Information, The Right to Live” “Step Out From the Old to the New” IS 2364 (1987): Glossary of textile terms - Woven fabrics [TXD 1: Physical Methods of Tests] “ान $ एक न भारत का नमण” Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda “Invent a New India Using Knowledge” “ान एक ऐसा खजाना > जो कभी चराया नह जा सकताह ै”ै Bhartṛhari—Nītiśatakam “Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen” IS : 2364 - 1987 Indian Standard GLOSSARY OF TEXTILE TERMS- WOVEN FABRICS ( Second Revision ) ULX 001-4 : 677.074 Q C’ojpright 1988 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG NEW DELHI 110002 Gr 7 Alay 1988 IS : 2364 - 1987 Indian Standard GLOSSARYOFTEXTILETERMS- WOVENFABRICS (Second Revision ) 0. FOREWORD 0.1 This Indian Standard ( Revised ) was adopted based on the prevalent practices and usage in the by the Bureau of Indian Standards on 10 Novem- Indian textile industry and trade, and are of tech- ber 1987, after the draft finalized by the Physical nical nature and need not necessarily tally with Methods of Test Sectional Committee had been those coined by excise or customs departments for approved by the Textile Division Council. -
European Linen in the Cloth Cultures of Colonial North America
Swarthmore College Works History Faculty Works History 2003 Transatlantic Textiles: European Linen In The Cloth Cultures Of Colonial North America Robert S. DuPlessis Swarthmore College, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://works.swarthmore.edu/fac-history Part of the History Commons Let us know how access to these works benefits ouy Recommended Citation Robert S. DuPlessis. (2003). "Transatlantic Textiles: European Linen In The Cloth Cultures Of Colonial North America". The European Linen Industry In Historical Perspective. 123-137. https://works.swarthmore.edu/fac-history/414 This work is brought to you for free by Swarthmore College Libraries' Works. It has been accepted for inclusion in History Faculty Works by an authorized administrator of Works. For more information, please contact [email protected]. 5 TRANSATLANTIC TEXTILES; EUROPEAN LINENS IN THE CLOTH CULTURE OF COLONIAL NORTH AMERICA Robert DuPlessis It IS well known that American colonial markets became of increas ing— even primary—importance for European manufactures during the eighteenth century and thereby contributed significantly to the onset of the Industrial Revolution.* For no goods was this so true as textiles, the first sector to enter the age of mechanized factory produc tion. In the New World, cloth makers and merchants found continu ously buoyant demand that more than compensated for the shrinking of traditional markets as mercantilist barriers arose and newly com petitive manufacturing centres proliferated across Europe. Shortly before the outbreak of the War of Independence, it has been estimated that about ‘half of all English exports of silk goods, printed cotton and linen goods, and flannels’, and between ‘two-thirds and three-quarters of all exported English . -
Transcription Instructions
Project Summary: William Ramsay was a merchant and civic official who lobbied with the Virginia General Assembly to establish the town of Alexandria, VA. The Ramsay store sold a huge variety of goods: for home (cooking and cleaning, sewing furnishings and clothes), for building and agriculture (tools and supplies), for personal use (like combs or jewelry), for reading and writing (books, paper and supplies), as well as grocery items (dry goods, spices, and beverages). The products listed in the database reflect a globalized consumer market with items from across Europe, India, China, the West Indies, and the Caribbean. The ledger, housed at the Smithsonian archive, begins when the store was founded in 1753 and continues through 1756. Ramsay used double entry accounting, where daily sales were recorded in a daybook then debts were copied into the ledger. The ledger, therefore, records the dated itemized purchases where merchants extended credit (debits) on the left with customer payments (credits) listed on the facing page. Since the daybook does not survive, we do not have complete information on cash sales and sadly cannot fully understand some financial issues, even foot traffic in the store. The ledger does, however, reflect a wide range of purchases by a culturally diverse range of customers. Spreadsheet: This project is being transcribed into a spreadsheet in order to allow more functional ability to search and categorize the information for interpretation. To facilitate such analysis, data needs to be entered in a slightly more systematized way than a straight transcription. Each line on the spreadsheet reflects a line of sales or payments. -
Hampton National Historic Site National Park Service U
FURNISHING THE MASTER BEDCHAMBER (1790 - 1815) HAMPTON Hampton National Historic Site National Park Service U. S. Department of the Interior 1993 31o/i 3VW7? Hampton National Historic Site National Park Service U. S. Department of the Interior 1993 FURNISHING THE MASTER BEDCHAMBER (1790 - 1815) Prepared by: Lynne Dakin Hastings, Curator Recommended by: Date Approved by: CONTENTS Acknowledgments iii Management Summary 1 Administrative Data 3 Status - List of Classified Structures Administrative History Proposed Use & Prior Planning Documents Interpretive Objectives 7 Interpretive Operating Plan Access Interpretive Security Related Media Historical Data 12 Local History Hampton 1745-1829 Architectural Data 16 Features: Southwest Bedchamber Surface Treatments Paint Faux Painting: Marbleizing and Graining Wallpaper Evidence of Original Furnishings 26 FURNISHINGS STUDY 35 I . The Bed A. The Bedstead 36 B. Bedding 42 C. Linens 46 D. Bed Furnishings 53 II. Other Soft Furnishings A. Matching Window Treatments 67 B. Slipcovers 69 C. Towels 71 III. Floor Coverings A. Brussels Carpet 72 B. Hearth Rug 78 C. Drugget or Baize 79 D. Straw Matting 79 E. Painted Floor Cloth 80 IV. Other Furniture A. Crib 83 B. Low Post or Trundle Bed 84 C. Chairs 85 D. Backstool 90 E. Easy Chair 91 F. Sofa 93 G. Night Table or Close Stool 94 H. Dressing Tables 96 I. Washstand 99 J. Clothes Horse and Towel Rack 101 K. Wardrobe 102 L. Bureau 104 FURNISHINGS STUDY, Other Furniture (con't) M. Writing Desk 106 N. Table 107 O. Bed Steps 109 P. Stool 109 Q. Large Chest 110 R. Dressing Glass and Looking Glass 112 V . -
Conservation in Colour Innovations and Experiences in Creating Colour for Textile Treatment and Display
Conservation in Colour Innovations and experiences in creating colour for textile treatment and display. Postprints from the Symposium of the ICON Textile Group 8th November 2019 People’s History Museum Manchester Edited by Viola Nicastro and Terri Dewhurst 1 Copyright © 2020, Individual Members All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under the copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise) without prior written permission of the copyright owner and the ICON Textile Group. Disclaimer: Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy, the editors and the ICON Textile Group can accept no responsibility for the content expressed in the publication; they are solely those of the individual members. 2 Contents Foreword 4 Viola Nicastro, Icon Textile Group Events Coordinator 4 The Treatment of Previous Repairs in an Eighteenth Century Carpet 5 Nicola Gentle, ACR, Free-lance textile conservator & researcher, Devon 5 Colour Conundrums and Digital Dilemmas: Printed Photographic Infill Patches for a 17th Century Tapestry 14 Jane Smith & Nadine Wilson, Senior Textile Conservator & Textile Conservator, National Trust Textile Conservation Studio 14 Conservation of Two Degraded Silk Colours: Putting the Colour Back 24 Liz Rose, Textile Conservator, British Library 24 Colouring for Camouflage: Exploring the Use of Artists’ Pencils to Reduce the Visual Disturbance of Irremovable Stains on Textiles 35 Alison Lister ACR, Director/Principal Conservator, Textile Conservation Limited, Bristol, UK 35 3 Foreword Viola Nicastro, Icon Textile Group Events Coordinator The 2019 Icon Textile Group Colour Symposium took place on the 8 th November at the People’s History Museum in Manchester and it was attended by 51 delegates. -
The Material Culture of the Household: Consumption and Domestic Economy in the Eighteenth and Early Nineteenth Centuries
THE MATERIAL CULTURE OF THE HOUSEHOLD: CONSUMPTION AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY IN THE EIGHTEENTH AND EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURIES Barbara Caddick BA(Hons) A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of the University of Wolverhampton for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy May 2010 This work or any part thereof has not previously been presented in any form to the University or to any other body whether for the purposes of assessment, publication or for any other purpose (unless otherwise indicated). Save for any express acknowledgments, references and/or bibliographies cited in the work, I confirm that the intellectual content of the work is the result of my own efforts and of no other person. The right of Barbara Caddick to be identified as author of this work is asserted in accordance with ss.77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. At this date copyright is owned by the author. Signature……………………………………….. Date…………………………………………….. Abstract Research into the material culture of the household and the domestic interior has increased rapidly during recent years. It has primarily focused on the appearance and use of domestic space leaving household management and maintenance a neglected area of study. Furthermore the relationship between the ownership of goods, the domestic interior and the use of the home has not been studied in conjunction with the management and maintenance of the household. Additionally, research into the material culture of the household has predominantly focused on quantitative changes experienced during the late seventeenth century and early eighteenth. It has long been established that the ownership of household goods increased in this period, but similar research has not taken place to explore the nature of these goods, nor to extend this work to the subsequent period.