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Independent Evaluation of C&A Foundation Programme and Operational Effectiveness (2014/15-2019/20) Volume 1 – Report November 2020 Contents CONTENTS .............................................................................................................................................. I ACRONYMS ........................................................................................................................................... V GLOSSARY .......................................................................................................................................... VI ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .................................................................................................................... VII SUMMARY ............................................................................................................................................ IX 1 AMBITION TO TRANSFORM .................................................................................................... 1 1.1 Hidden costs of the fashion industry ................................................................................................. 1 1.2 Growing momentum for transformation ............................................................................................. 2 1.3 Evaluation approach .......................................................................................................................... 3 2 C&A FOUNDATION STRATEGY AND ALIGNMENT WITH C&A BUSINESS .......................... 5 2.1 Designed for transformation .............................................................................................................. 5 2.2 Capacity for leadership ...................................................................................................................... 9 2.3 C&A Foundation and C&A business priorities ................................................................................... 9 3 PROGRAMME RESULTS AND EFFECTIVENESS ................................................................. 12 3.1 Sustainable Raw Materials .............................................................................................................. 12 3.2 Forced and Child Labour ................................................................................................................. 17 3.3 Working Conditions ......................................................................................................................... 20 3.4 Circular Fashion .............................................................................................................................. 24 3.5 Gender equity in foundation programmes ....................................................................................... 28 4 PARTNER RELATIONS: EFFECTIVENESS, SUSTAINABILITY AND GRANT-MAKING EFFICIENCY ......................................................................................................................................... 32 4.1 Partner engagement effectiveness .................................................................................................. 32 4.2 Efficiency of partner engagement .................................................................................................... 37 4.3 Sustainability of benefits and organisations .................................................................................... 41 5 C&A FOUNDATION GOVERNANCE, MANAGEMENT AND OPERATIONS ......................... 47 5.1 Governance ..................................................................................................................................... 47 5.2 Global structure and functions ......................................................................................................... 50 5.3 Gender equity in governance, management and processes ........................................................... 56 6 MONITORING AND EVALUATION, ORGANISATIONAL LEARNING, AND RESEARCH ..... 57 6.1 M&E and organisational learning .................................................................................................... 57 ii Contents 6.2 Research ......................................................................................................................................... 62 7 CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS........................................................................... 66 7.1 Towards transformation ................................................................................................................... 66 7.2 Recommendations .......................................................................................................................... 68 Boxes Box 2.1 Gender Justice .............................................................................................................. 8 Box 2.2 Foundation and business alignment on materials ....................................................... 11 Box 3.1 Insight from the BCI evaluation ................................................................................... 15 Box 3.2 Key outcomes of the Working Conditions programme ................................................ 23 Figures Figure 3.1 Factors that enable or impede the integration of GEI in programmes and initiatives ..................................................................................................................... 31 Figure 4.1 Venture philanthropy in context ................................................................................... 35 Tables Table 2.1 Examples of industry-wide platforms supported by C&A Foundation ........................... 6 Table 3.1 Percentage increase in net farm income by geography, partner data, 2018/19 ........ 13 Table 3.2 Programmatic achievements in gender equity ............................................................ 29 Table 4.1 Key dimensions involved in strategic shift towards direct impact investing ................. 37 Appendices APPENDIX A. METHODOLOGY ....................................................................................................... 83 APPENDIX B. STAKEHOLDERS CONSULTED ............................................................................... 94 APPENDIX C. STRATEGY AND ALIGNMENT ............................................................................... 106 APPENDIX D. RESULTS AND EFFECTIVENESS .......................................................................... 133 APPENDIX E. GENDER, EQUITY AND INCLUSION ...................................................................... 164 ii Contents APPENDIX F. PARTNERSHIP ........................................................................................................ 173 APPENDIX G. SUSTAINABILITY .................................................................................................... 182 APPENDIX H. GRANT-MAKING EFFICIENCY ............................................................................... 190 APPENDIX I. BENCHMARKING WITH FOUR COMPARATOR ORGANISATIONS ..................... 193 APPENDIX J. GOVERNANCE, MANAGEMENT AND OPERATIONS ........................................... 203 APPENDIX K. GLOBAL STRUCTURE AND FUNCTIONS ............................................................. 205 APPENDIX L. M&E AND ORGANISATIONAL LEARNING ............................................................ 210 APPENDIX M. RESEARCH ............................................................................................................. 213 APPENDIX N. RECOMMENDATIONS AND THEIR IMPLICATIONS.............................................. 220 APPENDIX O. DOCUMENTS REVIEWED ...................................................................................... 230 iii Contents Case Studies (Volume 2) The evaluation included the preparation of five case studies, one for each C&A Foundation programme. The case studies informed the analysis and recommendations presented in Volume 1 of this study, and have been compiled separately in Volume 2. SUSTAINABLE RAW MATERIALS – CASE STUDY FORCED AND CHILD LABOUR – CASE STUDY WORKING CONDITIONS – CASE STUDY CIRCULAR FASHION – CASE STUDY STRENGTHENING COMMUNITIES – CASE STUDY iv Acronyms BCI Better Cotton Initiative BLAST Bangladesh Legal Aid and Services Trust CAMI Centro de Apoio e Pastoral do Migrante (Pastoral Care and Support Centre for Migrants) COO Chief operations officer CSR Corporate social responsibility DEI Diversity, equity and inclusion EMF Ellen MacArthur Foundation EP Effective Philanthropy FFG Fashion for Good GBV Gender-based violence GEI Gender, equity and inclusion GFF Good Fashion Fund GMO Genetically modified organism GO Global Operations HR Human resources IC Investment Committee ILO International Labour Organization KPI Key performance indicator M&E Monitoring and evaluation NGO Non-governmental organisation ONE Organisational and Network Effectiveness PPR Partner Perception Report RFP Requests for proposals RMG Ready-made garments SMART Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Relevant, Time-bound SO Strategic objective T&L Talent and Learning ToC Theory of change TRF Thomson Reuters Foundation WHO World Health Organization WWF World Wildlife Fund ZDHC Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals v Glossary Core support Funds given to an organisation for its maintenance or strengthening. Types of grants: Organisational Development: Funds specifically intended to help an organisation expand its capacity and improve its organisational performance. General Operating Support: Unrestricted funds aiming to support a non-profit organisation’s