Azerb aij an D inners The Winter 2 0 1 7 Nancy Z aslavsky : Program Notes By Richard Foss, CH C peakers Bureau Commi ee Chair Vol.15 No. 2 Continued from Page 1 Hi In September and October the Culinary ry sto a r i To sponsor one of these items or part of one, or Historians had two members-only in a l n something else please contact Madeleine Beaumont u dinners of the cuisine of Azerbaijan s who helps with tax-deductible sponsorship questions, C Food made by Feride Buyuran, author of as we are a 501 c(3) organization. Contact Madeleine Pomegranates And Sa ron: A Culinary C H S C o Since 1995 for payment with a credit card or mail your check to f ia Journey to Azerbaijan. The venue was S n o r u o Donna Chaney, CHSC Treasurer. th if Feride’s home, and she and her daugh- ern Cal a special We gratefully announce your ter Meltem greeted visitors wearing JOurnal sponsorship in a newsletter traditional Azerbaijani costumes and such as Charles Perry’s $ 50 0 Dedicated to pursuing food history and supporting culinary collections at the Los Angeles Public Library escorting us to the beautifully lit rear sp onsorship of any expense, THANK F eride and h er daugh ter Meltem show o traditional patio. The menu was different each and Arthur Everett’s 0 dress of Azerbaijan C old B urgers of the D epression time, but included over a dozen items sp onsorship towards a program When the sandwich was invented in the late 18th century, it was such as chilled yogurt soup with herbs and chickpeas, multiple videotaping, and a generous just a utilitarian way of eating meat without the need for plates pons ors salads, rice pilaf topped with lamb stewed with dried fruit and member’s $ 3 0 0 anonymous to our s and forks. But the idea was an irresistible blank slate, and within a sp onsorship . chestnuts, and four kinds of homemade breads. Feride came out century a Glasgow caterer boasted that he made 100 kinds of YOU between courses to explain not only the individual dishes, but sandwiches. The first edition of Fannie Farmer’s T h e B oston U p coming Programs at the Central Have you read Marie ondo’s bestseller, T h e also food traditions and politeness at the table. She and her Lib rary’s Mark T ap er Auditorium: C ooking- Sch ool C ookbook (1896) described 16 sandwiches, most Life Changing Magic of Tidying p? Spring-cleaning helpers also demonstrated traditional dances and encouraged of them forgotten (lettuce-mayonnaise, Swiss cheese-walnut, season is around the corner, time to discard unloved CHSC members to join in. F eb ruary 1 1 , 2 0 1 7 C harles Perry sliced ginger, fig paste with peanuts, quince jelly with walnuts). As C HSC President cookbooks and tidy bookshelves. Please donate volumes The evening finished with Andy Coe we know, the invention of novel sandwiches has never ceased. to CHSC for our used cookbook sales during some homemade Baku-style “ F eeding Hungry Americans: D iets of the G reat D ep ression” Two inventions were particularly important. In the late 1890s, the club sandwich program receptions and yearly at the Hollywood Farmers baklava, an array of dried emerged from the Saratoga Clubhouse in upstate New York. It introduced the Market. Contact Librarian Ani Boyadjian, aboyad lapl.org fruits and nuts, and tea March 1 1 , 2 0 1 7 double-decker concept of three pieces of bread (preferably toast) with two fillings. or 213-228-7223 for drop-off information. with homemade rose George Geary For a long time, the recipe was the one we still know: chicken or turkey and bacon on petal and sour cherry jam. on Corbe passes a plate of sa ron rice “ F amous E ateries of Hollywood’s G olden Age” the first level, lettuce and mayonnaise (and after a while sometimes tomato) on the Ap ril 8 , 2 0 1 7 second. Inevitably, cooks elaborated the possibilities, most of which have fallen by
Neela Paniz and Nandita Godbole the wayside.
theautry.org events special events avors historic california “Ancient Cuisine, Modern Interpretations”
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plates from farm-to-table food stations access to the California Continued galleries and meet-and- and galleries Continued California the to access stations food farm-to-table from plates May 1 3 , 2 0 1 7 like Salisbury steak -- between two pieces of bread. I’m not going to venture into the
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The Autry Museum of the American West is currently presenting “Flavors: Historic California,” Historic “Flavors: presenting currently is West American the of Museum Autry The June 1 0 , 2 0 1 7 Late Late Program Notes Andy Smith “A History of Food, Health and Nutrition The fall season opened with Feride Buyuran in September’s in America” “Food of Azerbaijan: From the Silk Road to Today” where she masterfully guided us through the cuisine’s evolution. October’s program, “L.A. Craft Brew,” was moderated by John Verive and starred a panel of local experts on the evolution of Los Angeles’ rapidly growing field of local, small-scale breweries. Thank you to Joan Nielsen who chaired the program and the following day’s Are you Nancy Z aslavsky C HSC V ice President, annual members party, a craft beer fest at Three Weavers Brewing an Amazon shopper? Programs in Inglewood. Patric uh spoke in November on, “Tracing Flavor Through Charitable Cookbooks” as a fine introduction to his new book, F inding th e
CHS C is now a lavors e Lost: rom Bread to Bourbon, How Artisans Reclaimed American ood. I
Address Correction Requested Correction Address smile.amazon charity! moderated December’s program, “A Journey Through Vietnamese Cuisine” with
Los Angeles, CA 90071-2002 CA Angeles, Los If you would lik e Amazon to donate to author im Fay and Chef immy Tang it was a perfect opportunity to ask every 630 West Fifth Street Fifth West 630 Culinary Historians of S outhern California, question I had about the country’s flavorful dishes, both ancient and contemporary p lease start each shop p ing session at the fusion. All of these wonderful programs were videotaped and can be viewed on the web site, smile. amazon. com, rather than CHSC website, chscsite.org. the usual amazon.com and they’ll donate Please let me remind you that CHSC now solicits sponsorships for costs we accrue
0 .5% of the p rice of your eligib le p urchases. at the at each year as our new fundraising tool. Members, please consider helping with ongo-
Amazon donates and there is zero cost to you. ing expenses besides your annual membership, such as: Newsletter printing: 500 (2 T he Culinary Historians of S outhern California outhern S of Historians Culinary he T V isit Y our A mazonSmile I mpact to see times per year) Program videotape for website: 350 (8 times per year) Hospitality donation information and learn more. reception expenses: 200 (8 times per year) and Directory (yearly) printing: 800 (1 time per year). Continued on page Events Ar m the Editor ound A Le er fro Los An Gourmet Ghosts geles by James T. Bartlett Gluten Free and Allergen Friendly Expo Reflecting upon the headlines of 2016, we saw a lot of focus I was sitting in Jones on Santa Monica Boulevard when the bartender (you can even reserve his old table, though he apparently often preferred February 11-12, 2017 upon technology and food. told me about the history of the place. Back when it was called Ports, to sit at the bar). Del Mar Fairgrounds, San Diego Some innovations were expensive and interesting, like robot Michelangelo Antonioni, Warren Beatty, Julie Christie, Robert Redford gfafexpo.com I wanted to discover some lesser-known tales too, and wasn’t surprised waiters in restaurants in Asia, delivery drones that corporations and Francis Ford Coppola all came in – though probably not at the when I learned in interviews that many business owners – and veteran The largest exposition of its kind in the United States, are implementing into their businesses, portable gluten testers same time. featuring specialty food product vendors, classes for staff – apparently find it hard to hand over the reins, even if they’ve gone for those with special dietary concerns and the continuing to that great eaterie in the sky. nutritional cooking and educational demonstrations to evolution of smart kitchens. Then he mentioned they had a resident ghost. meet the dietary needs of the celiac community, those There’s Consuela Castillo de Bonzo, still reigning over Olvera Street from with food sensitivities, autoimmune/inflammatory But other developments were more dubious and haven’t yet There was even a particular table where he, she, or it seemed to cause diseases, and autism. caught on with the mass public. For example, pizza-ordering havoc – regular spillages, broken glasses, dropped food – and security her balcony at La Golondrina, and “mama” Encarnación Gomez is still giving out sweet treats at the El Carmen tequila bar on West 3rd Street – LA Cookie Con & Sweets Show temporary tattoos raised questions about how much personal data customers would camera footage (of course now lost) of an unexplained incident in the be willing to submit. The demand for cute food emojis seemed like a winner as store room. to say nothing of Hank Holzer, who still hangs out at February 18-19, 2017 his famous dive in the Stillwell Hotel, and guitarist Los Angeles Convention Center well, though they haven’t been very functional or widely accepted as of today. I wasn’t an amateur Ghost- lacookiecon.com Even rainbow-colored bagels and 3D-printed food products are starting to lose Gino D’Auri and owner Clark Allen at flamenco spot buster or a big believer in El Cid. At Tom Bergin’s on Fairfax, Tom still appears so The biggest convention on the West Coast for all things their sense of novelty. psychics, but as a journalist my sweet, salty and savory in the world of baking. Features regularly that it’s hard for the new owner to keep workshops, demos, sampling, decorating contests, a It’ll be interesting to see what emerges this year. There’s no shortage of new antennae started twitching; nighttime cleaning crews! cosplay competition and a kids zone. Celebrity pastry food-related projects begging for Kickstarter funds and other support, and no maybe it would make a fun chefs include Duff Goldman and Ron Ben-Israel. one knows what new products or technologies will become a bestselling hit, but Halloween article for the LA January 2017 saw the 70th anniversary of the brutal I believe that food science literacy is on the rise, despite the long-standing and Weekly or even the LA Times. murder of Elizabeth Short – better known as “The All-Star Chef Classic Black Dahlia” – and, as arguably the most famous March 8-11, 2017 inherent skepticism between chefs and scientists. There may be some positive outcomes to emerge from experiments being conducted in America and abroad Years later I was regularly investi- (unsolved) murder in L.A. history, it’s no surprise that L.A. Live, Los Angeles gating old newspaper micro- allstarchefclassic.com that will forever change how we experience food and restaurants. Here’s to our her ghost has been claimed by many bars, as well as Black Dahlia martini,
continued progress. Welcome to a new year! Magic Castle The credit: Photo fiches at the Central Library and the Biltmore Hotel (the last place she was seen alive). Biltmore Hotel A 4-day event of dining experiences, including a Masters Invisible Irma Dinner Series. Also offers 2 strolling events with savory launching Gourmet Ghosts 2, my second collection of stories about haunted bars, restaurants andhotels Rather dubiously, the Biltmore even has a drink named for her – ingredi- offerings, unlimited beer and wine in an open-market ents include vodka, Chambord black raspberry liqueur and Kahlua – while setting. Chef talent includes Chris Cosentino, Ludo in and around the Los Angeles area. LeFebvre, Curtis Stone, Dahlia Narvaez, Hugh Acheson, Sharon Tani The Basement in Santa Monica, a hidden bar under The Victorian event Sherry Yard, Jon Shook, Vinny Dotolo and many others. When a hotel or restaurant is 100 years old, they’ve hosted countless venue, has Delia’s Elixir (bourbon, agave, raspberries and lemon). F DIE thousands – maybe even millions – of guests, and not all of them were California Wine Festival O O ID After hearing strange footsteps and drawers and doors opening and F A CTO good or happy people. In fact, it turned out that many of the “ghost” slamming in the wee hours while they were closing up (often alone), the Orange County, April 21-22, 2017 stories I was told had their roots in murder, mystery and suicide. Santa Barbara, July 13-15, 2017 Who invented Basement’s staff felt a celebratory cocktail might be a good idea. californiawinefestival.com But not all of them. Wine, food, music, sea and sun create the quintessential edible underwear? Just in case. wine tasting experience. California’s best wineries pour Edible undies were born late one night in early 1970s Of course there’s the fabulous Magic Castle in Hollywood, which is vintage red and white wines, regional top chefs and Chicago, when young entrepreneurs David Sanderson famous for its own ghost “Invisible Irma.” She plays the piano for tips Originally from London, James has been living in specialty food purveyors serve gourmet appetizers along and Lee Brady were sitting around sharing apple- and is more Disney than the devil, but nevertheless the Castle’s Milt Los Angeles since 2004. Gourmet Ghosts 2, his second murder/mystery/ghost/food and with live music and a beachside view. Some events are flavored wine — and other substances — with some Larsen told me two convincing stories about other ghosts – a former limited to 300 ticket-holders. bar tender and a guest magician – that have been seen there too. drink guide to L.A’s bars, restaurants and friends. “Puff the Magic Dragon put the idea in our mind,” Sanderson recalls. “I hotels, is now available on Amazon and Simply diVine remembered my older brother used to say, ‘eat my shorts.’ Like ‘buzz off.’ We said, You may also have heard of Charlie Chaplin still spending time at his at stores across town. He’ll also be giving March 25, 2017 “Let’s make shorts you can eat!” a talk on “True Crime & Real Love” at the Los Angeles LGBT Center, Los Angeles favorite table in old school Musso & Frank’s, the smell of Orson Welles’ They found an edible film that had been originally designed to wrap frozen turkeys, cigars by his old table at Ma Maison (now a fancy bakery), and it’s said LA Breakfast Club on February 8th – more simplydivinela.org details at www.gourmetghosts.com Premier food and wine event for LGBT people and their and fashioned licorice-laced briefs they called Candypants. The product was both that the wonderful Tam O’Shanter in Los Feliz still hosts Walt Disney allies. Sample food and drink from L.A.’s most popular edible and wearable, but they never seriously expected it to be eaten or worn. restaurants, food trucks, wineries, distilleries, breweries, They assembled samples in a spare bedroom and put them on display in a friend’s and more. All proceeds support the Center’s programs and boutique. A student at the Univ. of Indiana bought the first pair. Her school Charles Perry: Cold Burgers of the Depression services. Co-chaired by Chef Susan Feniger, HGTV’s David newspaper published an article, and the Associated Press picked up the story. Continued from Page 1 Thank you to our generous Bailey, Pavilions’ Laurie Deddens and Sotheby’s Jory Burton. Orders started flooding in. How popular were Candypants? At one point in 1976, they poisonously contentious question of where and when this happened. What Angels, Benefactors & Patrons The Agriculture, Food and Human Values Society were selling $150,000 of edible underwear a month. They bought a 7,000 sq. ft. historic interests me is the fact that in the 1930s, hamburger patties were some- & The Association for the Study of Food and mansion with a grand staircase and a ballet studio. times served cold -- and in particularly fussy club sandwiches. Society Annual Conference Source: Gideon Brower. (2015, February 13). An unofficial history of edible June 14-17, 2017 The Culinary Historians of Southern California acknowledges the underwear. [KCRW’s Good Food Blog]. Summarized with the author’s permission: In 1939 the well-known food writer Louis P. de Gouy published his generosity of members who have joined or renewed at the Occidental College, Los Angeles http://blogs.kcrw.com/goodfood/2015/02/an-unofficial-history-of-edible-underwear/ Sandwich Manual for Professionals, which offered more than a dozen club oxyfoodconference.org Angel, Benefactor and Patron levels. Your gift allows our Supports scholarship on the theme, “Migrating Food sandwich recipes using hamburger patties as if they were sliced roast beef. organization to enhance member services and increase our Cultures: Engaging Pacific Perspectives on Food and Here are some of Louis’ ideas, in case you feel like trying them: support of the culinary collections of The Central Library. Agriculture” through presentations, panel sessions, *Burger and watercress layer, egg salad-lettuce layer. roundtables and workshops. Includes discussions of how The Culinary Historians of Southern California Angel: Benefactor: agricultural and food mesh with environmental, social, http://chscsite.org *Burger and chopped bacon layer (cold, of course), Swiss cheese and lettuce. Cheryl Cole Don & Marilyn Corbett cultural, and historical resources as well as examinations of *Burger with mustard and pickles layer, pineapple and lettuce; this one served on rye. Amelia & Ralph Saltsman people, places, innovation, food production and consumption. President: Charles Perry *Burger and shredded pineapple layer, with tomato and lettuce, on raisin bread. Judith & Woolf Kanter National Dutch Oven Gathering Vice President - Programs: Nancy Zaslavsky *Burger and sauerkraut layer; tomato, bacon and lettuce (a combination which sounds June 17, 2017 Vice President - Membership: Susanna Erdos perfectly fine on its own, if you ask me), on pumpernickel. Rancho Jurupa Park, Riverside Patron: Jeanette King *Burger and sliced egg layer, marmalade and lettuce layer, nut bread. www.nationaldog.org Treasurer: Donna Chaney Anonymous William McLaughlin Over 100 cast iron Dutch oven cooks from across America Secretary: Joanna Erdos *Burger and lettuce, chicken salad and lettuce, on white. Grace Bauer Robyn Miller gather together and cook in the same Dutch ovens that Media Relations:Heather Hoffman *Burger and ham slice, potato salad with walnuts and lettuce; on rye. Susan & Tom Gardner Noel Riley Fitch & Albert Sonnenfeld tamed the country from the Revolutionary War through *Burger with hot fried tomatoes and lettuce, string bean salad and lettuce. the Lewis and Clark expedition and are still used by outdoor Library Liaisons: Ani Boyadjian & Stella Mittelbach George Geary Jill Walsh enthusiasts and Scouts today. Features classes, goodie Newsletter Editor/Art Director:Sharon Tani *Burger and cress, layer of cream cheese, raspberry jam and lettuce, on raisin bread. Arthur & Rachael Gordon Nancy & Morris Zaslavsky bags, entertainment, competitions and a huge evening pot *Burger and bean salad layer; marmalade, walnuts and cress; orange date bread. Edie and Jay Gralla Judy Zeidler luck dinner for those who contribute a side dish to share. Questions? Please contact: [email protected] *Burger with Liederkranz cheese; tongue, tomato and lettuce, on pumpernickel or rye. Page 2 Page 7 Page 6 walkexpanded and hotel amenities. www.lletycynin.co.uk for aswell adults aschildrentheir location and includesa wooded tarts, butterbeer hot Hagrid’s and birthday cake. Themenu isintended creations inspired by thebooks series, suchaschocolate frogs, treacle were spent researchingtesting and includes thethemed-menu which is creating a year-long celebration. According totheir website, months year,this Bed-and-Breakfast Llety Wales, South Cyninin Great Britain, As the20thanniversary ofthefirst Potter Harry book’s release arrives Wizard’s Tea www.soloperdue.com flower arrangements,a day and rental Ferrari of cars are alsoavailable. regional and seasonal ingredients. Personalized fireworks displays, poet, Horace. TheItalian menuchangesfreshis based dailyandupon the grounds on building ofaRoman to villaoncebelonging theLatin Per Due,translates which to “just for two,” ishousedina19thcentury onetable,only two seatsyour and server’s undivided attention? Solo atriptoabout theworld’s smallest restaurant inVacone, Italy, with amongstIf theideaofdining naked strangers turnsyour stomach, how Solo Per Due www.thebunyadi.com what’s but part withclothing, the point that of at anaked restaurant? today! They alsohave abamboo-partitioned area who forthose can’t the waitinglist so isamilelong haveyou timehit the togym starting stainsyour on necktie. Self-conscious? Nophotography isallowed and become liberated from electronics, pretense andapparently, food candlelightwood on furniture, eat organic food, and useedible cutlery createdrestaurant apop-up that inLondon encourages diners to sitin acompany Lollipop, nude. specializingincreative experiences, has Tired ofyour boringrestaurant routine? Spiceitup inthe by dining Bunyadi, TheNaked Restaurant Pan Amtravel bag.panamexperience.com game trivia “in-flight” that can winyoua attendants an and clothing, inperiod drinks basedmenus, uponoriginal flight interior,airplane complete withmeals and Experience aboard theirPan Am747replica Twice amonth, they recreate thePan Am world’s largest aviation-themed film studio. by bookingaseat withAirHollywood, the Relive theglamourof1970’s luxury travel air The Pan AmExperience who seemsto have everything. few that can behadviatheinternet. It’s sure to pleasetheperson find: somelocal adventures, somedestinations indistant landsanda gift for your food lover? Here are themost interesting ones we could Valentine’s Day is fast approaching. Are you looking for anunusual Gifts forLoversofFoodHistory by SharonTani, CHSCNewsletter Editor Annual Members Only Party by beer writer JohnMichaelVerive quenching discussionwas moderated Public Library. Thislively thirst - at theLosAngelesAngeles brewing” Brew, apanel ontheevolution ofLos October 8, CHSCpresented Craft “L.A. What afunweekend! OnSaturday Porter, BrianSchmitz Naga Reshi, JohnMichaelVerive, Laurie Craft Brew Panel (l to r):RichMarcello, events). See you next year! Nielsen, chairandorganizer ofboth arranging theSilent Auctionand to Joan raise $945.(Thanks go to DonCorbett for many wonderful items andhelped CHSC more. Theevent’s Silent Auctionoffered Bean Pot, Chocolate Stout Cake and Spareribs, ShrimpDunk USA, Ale Baked Sweet andSpicyBeer Nuts, Beer-bequed 1963 “Beer Party USA” booklet) including Guests enjoyed recipes (many from a Weavers Brewery Company inInglewood. Craft BeerBrunch,” was held at the Three On the following Sunday, theannualCHSCMembers OnlyPotluck Party, “A in Palmdale. City Brewing inTorrance andBrianSchmitzofLucky Luke Brewing Co. Riverof Dry Brewing downtown in LosAngeles, LauriePorter ofSmog including RichMarcello ofStrand Brewing Co.in Torrance, Naga Reshi and featured brewers from the LosAngeles County Brewers Guild,
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Photo credit: LustMexico.com jobs. After that hehadmanagers working for him, butwas at the restaurantonly the was It it. of end worked all of the jobs andit was here that he really he it, started he “Because explained. sons Tohls’three the of Tohl,one Cienega,”David La on here experience dining fine the started really he “ Fried Frog Legsfor $3.75. French or Sautéed and the $3.50, $2.75, for for Amandine Planked Rainbow Trout Scallops Other Cod $3.95. Cape was the were dinner Dinners” lobster Shore “Famous Maine of fresh full pound but ½ time, 1 the A variety. for pricey were Table Captain’s the at Dinners thus created the first cold water tanks inthe business. out how to keep the lobsters alive for many hours, butthey did, and the time for some tooklobsters It figure fromvarious airlines. to Tohls of delivery the up pick to 2am around night each LAX to Maine drive would live Bernie and fly-in Janet diners. to their for country fresh serve to the California to in lobsters people first the were Tohls The ships’ antiques, wheels, custom painted murals, andstained coast glass. east with decorated fancy, was place The ors. its white dinnerjacketed for waiters, leather booths, anddarkwooded interi- remembered is and 1948 around opened Table Captain’s The Rib, Tail Cock,Shanty, TheFish O’The andMingRoom. the area's more popular restaurants of the time included Lawry’s Prime was the place to be and to be seen when dining in Los Angeles. Some Vicente,of San and Wilshire between Boulevard, Cienega La nightclubs, swinging restaurantsand upscale numerous RestauranttoRow. Home section of streets along the eastern edge of Beverly Hills was nicknamed Coming into prominence at the end of Prohibition in the 1930s, a small Bernie andJanet Tohl CHSC Annual Book Sale Dad's favorite restaurant was always the Captain’s Table, which is where by AniBoyadjian, Liaison CHSC Library We hauled out38boxes (asopposed to theover 100last helped usthat day. members, including DonCorbett andDonnaChaney, who helping before, duringandafter. Thanks also to CHSC Specialthankssale withus. alsogo to Sandeep Gupta, for cashier alongwithStella Mittelbach, whoalso worked the candidates weeks beforehand. Madeleine alsoserved as sorting through materials by out besttopic andpicking countless hours inthe Science Department closed stacks helped throughout theduration ofthesale, butspent Very special thanks to Madeleine Beaumont, whonotonly offerings just intime for folks preparing theirholidays menus. welcome respite, andallowed us to out ourholiday bring oppressive. The crisp and cool December weather was a year's booksalewas heldinAugust andtheheat was quite Farmer's Market onSunday, December 4, 2016.The previous The CHSCannualcookbook salewas heldat theHollywood rant Row. four restaurants simultaneously onRestau- operated Tohls the time one At Islander. Tohl Hale’sand Cugat,Alan BarrelLobster Casa of list the and restaurants includedthe Blue BoarTavern, open, to one first the was TableCaptain’s The Hills. Beverly their successeastern onthissmall edge of success was inreal estate, Cienega,” andthey found La to key the Mrs. Tohlbelieved Janet and Bernie and “Mr. as Known 1947 to 1987 opened thirteen restaurants. on La Cienega was Bernard Tohl, who from One ofthemost successful restaurateurs where he actually worked at all the Mr. andMrs.LaCienega learned the business by Carole Rosner for the all great memories. fine diningalongRestaurant Row, we thankthe Tohls 1987. Although Ma Maison and Spago opened and defined a Lobsternew era in Hale’s Alan restaurants, Tohl the of last The the we’d close not, doors, If remodel andreopen,” Janet said. great. it worked, If something. try “We’d time. Bernie and Janet would research, travel, and create new concepts all such asfire dancers andhuladancers. entertainment nightly also hostess There was stand. the by button a by with thunderandlightning storms that were controlled rainforest, develop anartificial An engineer helped loose,” Jeffrey said. never got “They the restaurant. environment within inacontrolledliving and toucan birds capuchin monkeys There were live also and palmtrees,” Jeffrey Tohl, anotherson, said. was gods, tiki alabastershells, with ramplined a up world, anotherinto you building entire took The sequence entrance over. the so sidewalk walk the above floor to one elevated had you which lagoon entry front with the huge flaming torch caught a lot of attention as well as the out sign big The experience. this for up lined People times. all people at front give to used “We adventure. rickshaw rides around an the block aswe had three or four rickshaws out was Islander the at Dining unique tropical drinks were always served ahit. spot dinner and rumaki, ribs, spare heyday. themedThe its in night a Polynesianpeople 1,000 around this 1959, in Opened rants. At 385 No. La Cienega sat Islander, one of the Tohls most unique restau- from that restaurant andto theenditwas hisfavorite.” stemmed His success night. every much pretty restaurants what about. it'sall opportunity at outreach is Library, andthisgreat the LosAngeles Public brochures) of andservices (we passedoutquite afew got to learn aboutthe CHSC Farmer's Market goers also for next year's sale. quite afew nicecookbooks photographer stopped by andchatted withus,andlater donated All inall, itwas atidysumandwholeloteasierthanlast year. A KCRW without everyone's assistance. so appreciative of everyone's help--it would beimpossible to do it for ofthe doingalot heavy lifting. We have great volunteers andare my brother-in-law, Vrej Kevorkian, for letting usborrow histruck and we ofgreat hadlots titles from which to choose. I'dalsolike to thank year), andmade atotal of$580.Itwas muchmore manageable, and a fan ofcompetitive cookingshows. the oldest cookbook sheowns isfrom1937, andshe’s recipes. Herlemoncoconut squaresarealways ahit, neighborhood eateries, andeasy to follow dinner comfort food, decorated beautifully desserts,secret Carole Rosner isanativeAngelino whoenjoys cheesy complete Islander Restaurant menu Excerpt fromthe Barrel, closed in Page 3 the M y lifetime¬-and career- have paralleled the rapid changes in our food system over the past but I was thrilled that the standards had finally been established and the public could understand the vast difference between forty years. After we became certified organic at Restaurant Nora, it made me think about how far conventional and organic food. It was a huge validation of my efforts and of the organic foods movement as a whole. we’d come. Before World War II, there was no such thing as organic food. All food was organic. Food O rganic foods became more widely available and more in demand. Sales of organic foods grew from twelve billion dollars in 2004 to was just food- plants, grains, meats, and dairy that we could all recognize or grow. There were no thirty-two billion dollars in 2012. One of the great effects of this growth is that the price of organics is going down. It’s always been a problem long lists of ingredients on packages that you couldn’t pronounce, much less have an idea what they that the organic food has been seen to be elite- much more expensive and mainly available to people with money. To have it more widely did to your body or the environment. In 1938, the USDA’s Yearbook of Agriculture was called Soils available to more people at a lower cost is a great step forward, and I’m all in favor of having organic foods available at large commercial stores like and Men, and it remains a handbook of organic farming today, but back then that was the norm. Walmart and Costco, because that’s where people shop. It’s great if you can shop for local produce at farmers’ markets, but if you can’t, the more organics that are available, the better. I still think, however, that if you can n 1941, twenty million Americans planted Victory Gardens to support food buy both local and organic- this is the best option. productionI during World War II- the kind of garden Michelle Obama planted at the White House. People learned to grow food to help sustain their families and to dig root cellars to t the same time, we store vegetables and to make pickles and preserves. In 1942, Rodale published Organic A need to reconsider what we farming and Gardening magazine, and in 1943-the year I was born-Sir Albert Howard, a It’s always been a problem that the organic food has been spend our money on. Most of British mycologist and agricultural researcher, published a classic text on soil fertility and was the inexpensive food available in seen to be elite- much more expensive and mainly available founder of the organic farming movement, farming that creates the healthiest and most the United States is not of good nutritious and sustainable soils. to people with money. To have it more widely available to W hen I am in a gathering of cheese professionals – quality. It is less healthy, it is not something that happens quite a bit in my life – unfailingly, high in nutritional value, and it is more people at a lower cost is a great step forward, and someone announces that even though they “grew up on grown for quantity, not quality. It I’m all in favor of having organic foods available at large Velveeta” theyB ut Worldare now War committed II changed everything, to strengthening is also high in animal fat and including the foods we eat. All the chemicals devel- commercial stores like Walmart and Costco, because America’s burgeoning “artisan” cheese movement. Heads refined carbohydrates and low in oped during the war, and the industry that created fiber and has contributed to our nod. Shouts of “Me too!” ring out. Sometimes peopleMy Organic Life that’s where people shop. them, had to be turned to some sort of domestic use, obesity epidemic and other whichclap. became, This self-effacing in part, chemical announcement fertilizers and and later chorus of health problems. It’s bad for our pesticides,agreement fungicides, are such anddependable herbicides. occurrences Subsequently, it makes by Nora Pouillon health problems. It’s bad for our health and for the environment. Organic foods and produce benefit our health and help to asyou big wonder agriculture if anyonegrew, the in use the of USA pesticides didn’t growand herbicides up on swept the nation, and chemicals were used to preserve our foods, preserve biodiversity. Paying more for these items supports farmers who keep our environment clean, protects the health of feedVelveeta our farm or animals,an equivalent and pollute from the the entire 1950s-1990s. ecosystem right down to our stomachs. Diverse varieties of vegetables disappeared farmworkers, and helps to sustain rural communities. In the long run, “cheap” food has a staggering cost. I always say that I prefer as big food industries decided what would be the most convenient, and least perishable, to sell in supermarkets. In eighty years, to spend my money on food now rather than medical bills later. we lost 90 percent of the variety of our food seeds. Housewives became convinced the processed foods were more convenient and tasty, and they were spoon-fed recipes that required canned and packaged foods. The food system degraded into the horror T oday, some 78 percent of families buy some organic foods now and then, but sales of organic foods and beverages still of a supermarket I encountered in Washington, D.C., when I first arrived from Europe and couldn’t find anything that resembled represent only 4.2 percent of all food sold in the United States. Less than 1 percent of all American crops are organic, so we have a real, fresh, unaltered food except some lifeless iceberg lettuce and tasteless tomatoes. long way to go. Someday, we can hope to be like Europe, where fully 25 percent of all agricultural land is certified organic. We are A fter almost twenty years of working professionally steadily moving in that direction, and the latest bill, from 2014, was a real win for the organic movement, in that it provides money for as a cheesemonger, I began to wonder about a lot of research and certification programs and to develop the science and technical assistance to transition farmers, support organic growers, aspectsBefore of cheeseWorld thatWar I hadII, takenthere for was granted. no such Why thing did as and help grow the organic sector overall. This farm bill dramatically expandsGordon opportunities Edgar loves for cheese organic and farmers. The government is most of us grow up on Velveeta? Why, until recently, has responding, at last, to consumer demands for food that is healthy and hazard-free.worker-owned co-ops, and has organicAmerican-made food. All cheese food beenwas theorganic.Food source of ridicule was just or food - been combining both of these f course, every successful movement has a backlash, and the Nora Pouillon is a pioneer and champion dismissal?plants, We grains, are in the meats, midst and of thisdairy “artisan” that we cheese could O infatuations as the cheese buyer movement throughout the country, but why did we need organic movement is no exception. In 2012, the media made one of of organic, environmentally conscious for Sancuisine. Francisco’s Born in Vienna, Rainbow Austria, Nora one in the first place?all recognize or grow. their occasional nutritional pronouncements. “Organic Foods Not Healthier,” read headlines around the world. A Stanford University came to the United States in the late Grocery1960s. Cooperative In 1999, Restaurant since Nora 1994. I n 1971, he Alice United Waters States, opened a Chez Panisse. Rodale Press started an meta-study on organic versus conventional produce was ripe for organic certificationT program in California, which grew in the 1970s to other (www.noras.com) in Washington D.C. nation of immigrants, long has misinterpretation. It claimed that eating organic doesn’t give you Edgarbecame has been the first a certifiedjudge at organic states, creating standards for people to know where their food came from and had some degree of cheese health benefits, but the scientists just measured nutrients in the foodsnumerous restaurant national in the United cheese States, a if it was free from chemicals. The International Federation of Organic Agricul- without taking a look at pesticide residue or antibiotic resistance, bothcompetitions, feat accomplished a byboard few since. member ture Movementsdiversity amongst(IFOAM) was ethnic organized in 1972, which added political clout of which have been proven to be harmful to our health. Numerous for theNora California has consulted Artisan and developed Cheese to organicenclaves farming, in andcertain California regions. Certified You Organic Farmers (CCOF) was studies are also coming out that show that pesticides have adverse Guild,recipes and forhas Walnut had Acresa blog and since Fresh createdcan in 1973 get stinky to provide smear-ripened standards for organic food. The Oregon Tilth effects on our hormones and may be contributing to obesity. Fields (now Whole Foods), and is a certificationcheese agencywhere started there inwas 1974. a It was 1976 when I started the Tabard Inn. 2002,partner which in Bluecan Circle be found Foods, aat www.gordonzola.net. German community, Alpine-style supplier of both fresh and frozen T o me, “healthy” means that we aren’t spraying toxic chemi- His latest book, Cheddar: A cheeseI n where 1978, GovernorSwiss folks Jerry settled, Brown of California signed the Direct Marketing Act, which made farmers’ markets legal. cals on the food that we eat, we aren’t dousing agricultural workers sustainable seafood. (Imagine: it was illegal to sell produce directly to consumers before then!) This began to change the way people related to their etc. These communities even with those pesticides, and we aren’t poisoning the earth and its vital microor- Nora is the author of Cooking Journey with toNora the, Heart of food, and got to know where it came from, and provided a means of encouragement and support to small farmers. The Organic ganisms with chemicals. “Healthy” means that we are nourishing the soil a seasonal menu cookbook America’s that was aMost Iconic Cheese Foodhelped Act wascreate signed what into are California usually law in 1979, the year I opened Restaurant Nora. referred to as “American with compost, we’re keeping the water clean, we’re finalist for the Julia Childinvestigates Cookbook Award. America’s preserving the earth for future Over the years, Nora has received awards Originals”E arlier in my in book, the cheeseI talked about the significant events of the 1980s and the groundbreaking passage of the 1990 farm bill. Over the from many culinary and organic relationship organizations. with cheddar, course community,of the ten years altering after the recipes farm bill first laid the groundwork for organic standards, the U.S. government finally announced its new generations, and we are treating In 2009, she was the first why recipient we loveof the it, and the effect nature and our bodies with respect, organicfrom standards. tradition The conventional and creating food lobbynew is very strong, and so it had been a real struggle to put meaningful standards into play. Genesis Award from Women that Chefscheese and has had on the not reckless disregard. “Healthy” Restaurateurs, which recognizes a woman Initially,cheese the USDA like had Brick proposed in Wisconsin allowing bioengineered crops, sewage sludge, and irradiation on organic production, which was hardly in American food system. keeping with the philosophy of tending the land to nurture its health. It is some measure of how popular the organic movement had become means foods that are picked ripe who has achieved a true ‘first’ in the culinary and Dry Jack in California. profession. In October of 2011, Chefs by then that the USDA was inundated with more than 300,000 consumers complaining about the regulations. In October 2002, when the and bursting with flavor and Edgar’s cheese memoir, nutritional value, that are so delicious Collaborative inductedCheesemonger: her into their A Life on the final National H Organicowever, Standards I soon wererealized implemented, those “big three” exceptions had been removed. Finally, there was a nationally recognized Pioneers Table. set of standards so the consumers could understand what “organic” meant, and it spurred the growth of the market for organic produce. that children and adults alike will want Wedge was published in 2010. that to understand cheese in to eat their fruits and vegetables. And To much acclaim, Nora’s memoirs titled My Organic Life: How A America, s the you owner have of theto understandfirst certified organic restaurant in the country, I was invited to speak at the press conference held by the more fruits and vegetables, we do Pioneering Chef Changed the Way We Eat Today was published A know, mean better health. by Knopf in early 2015. PageEnvironmental 4 Working Group in front of a room filled with politicians and environmental experts. I was intimidated speaking to a crowd, Page 5 Page 4 Page 5