Implosion Connecticut Climbers Defied Death at the Top of the World, No One Imagined the View Would Turn So Ugly
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A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
Volume 30 # October 2014
Summit ridge of Rassa Kangri (6250m) THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER l Volume 30 October 2014 CONTENTS Climbs and Explorations Climbs and Exploration in Rassa Glacier ................................................. 2 Nanda Devi East (7434m) Expedition 204 .............................................. 7 First Ascent of P6070 (L5) ....................................................................... 9 Avalanche on Shisha Pangma .................................................................. 9 First Ascent of Gashebrum V (747m) .....................................................0 First Ascent of Payu Peak (6600m) South Pillar ......................................2 Russians Climb Unclimbed 1900m Face of Thamserku .........................3 The Himalayan Club - Pune Section The story of the club’s youngest and a vibrant section. ..........................4 The Himalayan Club – Kolkata Section Commemoration of Birth Centenary of Tenzing Norgay .........................8 The Himalayan Club – Mumbai Section Journey through my Lense - Photo Exhibition by Mr. Deepak Bhimani ................................................9 News & Views The Himalayan Club Hon. Local Secretary in Kathmandu Ms. Elizabeth Hawley has a peak named after her .................................9 Climbing Fees Reduced in India ............................................................. 22 04 New Peaks open for Mountaineering in Nepal ................................ 23 Online Show on Yeti ............................................................................... -
Catalogue 48: June 2013
Top of the World Books Catalogue 48: June 2013 Mountaineering Fiction. The story of the struggles of a Swiss guide in the French Alps. Neate X134. Pete Schoening Collection – Part 1 Habeler, Peter. The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ‘78. 1979 Simon & We are most pleased to offer a number of items from the collection of American Schuster, NY, 1st, 8vo, pp.224, 23 color & 50 bw photos, map, white/blue mountaineer Pete Schoening (1927-2004). Pete is best remembered in boards; bookplate Ex Libris Pete Schoening & his name in pencil, dj w/ edge mountaineering circles for performing ‘The Belay’ during the dramatic descent wear, vg-, cloth vg+. #9709, $25.- of K2 by the Third American Karakoram Expedition in 1953. Pete’s heroics The first oxygenless ascent of Everest in 1978 with Messner. This is the US saved six men. However, Pete had many other mountain adventures, before and edition of ‘Everest: Impossible Victory’. Neate H01, SB H01, Yak H06. after K2, including: numerous climbs with Fred Beckey (1948-49), Mount Herrligkoffer, Karl. Nanga Parbat: The Killer Mountain. 1954 Knopf, NY, Saugstad (1st ascent, 1951), Mount Augusta (1st ascent) and King Peak (2nd & 1st, 8vo, pp.xx, 263, viii, 56 bw photos, 6 maps, appendices, blue cloth; book- 3rd ascents, 1952), Gasherburm I/Hidden Peak (1st ascent, 1958), McKinley plate Ex Libris Pete Schoening, dj spine faded, edge wear, vg, cloth bookplate, (1960), Mount Vinson (1st ascent, 1966), Pamirs (1974), Aconcagua (1995), vg. #9744, $35.- Kilimanjaro (1995), Everest (1996), not to mention countless climbs in the Summarizes the early attempts on Nanga Parbat from Mummery in 1895 and Pacific Northwest. -
Cat 42 Final.P65
Top of the World Books Catalogue 42: November 2010 Mountaineering Bates, Robert H. The Love of Mountains is Best: Climbs and Travels from K2 to Kathmandu. 1994 Randall, Portsmouth, 1st, 8vo, pp.xv, 493, photo Alpinist #32 Autumn 2010. #25559, $9.99 frontis, 8 color & 144 bw photos, 12 maps, 5 sketches, photo eps, dec blue Sarmineto, Foraker, Karakoram, and much more! cloth; inscribed by Bates, dj fine, cloth fine. #9492, $89.- Alexander, Eric. The Summit: Faith Beyond Everest’s Death Zone. 2010 Bob Bates has provided us with a terrific book covering his entire career, from US, 1st, 8vo, pp.223, 72 color & 15 bw photos, drawing, appendix, wraps; the first ascent of Mt. Lucania with Bradford Washburn, to K2 in 1938 and 1953 signed, new. #25611, $14.99 with Charles Houston, to Ulugh Muztagh. This book is a must read, with maps Alexander presents a powerful story of guiding people with disabilities to six of and sketches by Dee Molenaar. the Seven Summits. Here are his accounts of Ama Dablam (2000 with Erik —. Mountain Man: The Story of Belmore Browne - Hunter, Explorer, Weihenmayer), Everest (2001 with Erik Weihenmayer), Elbrus & Mt Cook Artist, Naturalist and Preserver of our Northern Wilderness. 1991 Amwell (2002), Pisco (2003), Kilimanjaro (2004, 2007), Aconcagua & Denali (2005), Press, Clinton, 2nd, 4to, pp.xvii, 424, 33 color illus, 98 bw photos, sketches, 4 and Vinson (2006). Intertwined throughout is Eric’s strong faith in God and life maps, appendix, gilt dec brown cloth, slipcase; slipcase fine, cloth new. lessons gained with his expeditions. #23623, $59.- Ardito, Stefano, ed. -
Organized By: Endorsed By: Sponsors
Endorsed by: Sponsors: Organized by: UIAA YOUTH Climb your dream in Nepal See the world’s highest mountain? UIAA Global Youth Summit International Everest Base Camp Trek (5364 m) 14-30 September 2011 Climb Pokhalde Peak (5806 m) Endorsed by: Sponsors: Organized by: UIAA YOUTH 2 Peace Climb – International Youth Mountain Symposium UIAA Global Youth Summit Year of Asia – A unique opportunity to share the Himalayas with experts including Nepal women’s record Everest team, ECO Everest expedition leader Dawa Steven Sherpa & mountain medicine experts of the Himalayan Rescue Association. NAMASTE! Everest Base Camp Trek is takes in some of the most famous mountain scenery in the world passing the beautiful Ama Dablam on route to Everest Base Camp itself and its spectacular ‘horseshoe’ of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. We invite young Asian climbers & Federation trainers to share mountaineering techniques, performance development & the most of all the Himalayas. We welcome other countries to attend and offer an insight into their climbing programmes & environmental education. OBJECTIVES l Exchange training & mountian l Take part in an ecological action & techniques on the Everest Trek. Set new school visit on route. rock routes & boulder problems. l Make a post meet Peace climb & gather l Listen to high altitude & youth lecture – video. Himalayan Rescue Association. l Contribute to mountaineering and l Trek with some of Nepal’s top Sherpa’s mountain communities in Nepal. including women’s record Everest team. l Enjoy being in these amazing l Discover ice climbing in Asia session & mountains, make new friends to share how to organize ice climbing events. -
Explorersweb - the Pioneers Checkpoint - the Pioneers Checkpoint
Explorersweb - the pioneers checkpoint - the pioneers checkpoint http://www.explorersweb.com/print.php?id=20164 May 19, 2011 10:53 am EDT Himalaya and Everest wrap-up: pushing the edge in shaky weather, watch it live take 2 (Brooke Meetze) Another bunch of some 20 climbers summited Everest south in reportedly mild 10kts. Judging from the dispatches, the wind seems to alternate between hard and calm. More climbers are going up tonight, also on Lhotse, Everest North side, Kangchenjunga and Makalu. Watch for the oxygen-less attempts and a paraglide on Everest tonight, possibly even on the webcam just set up by the scientists at the Italian solar pyramid close to BC. Technology The EvK2Cnr Everest webcam has just been set up by the High Altitude Scientific and Technological Research. Here's from the press release: "The picture shows Mount Everest, 8,848 m, the highest mountain in the world. On the right you can see the South Col plateau, 8,000 m. The image is updated every 5 minutes, and you can even see the movements of clouds around the mountain. The webcam is active only with daylight, almost between 6 am and 18 pm, Nepali time zone." Everest South Gavin Bate (watch it live, take 1)/Adventure Alternative intended climbing up to Camp 4 (8,000m) on the South Col today, which means summit push tonight. "Looking at forecast it seems that there may be high winds tonight and tomorrow but if the team can make it up to camp 4 on the 19th May then it looks very positive for a summit on the morning of the 20th May! If not the 20th then the 21st which also looks like it will be favourable weather conditions." MountainTrip, led by Scott Woolums, aborted their summit attempt reporting strong and increasing winds. -
Read Ebook {PDF EPUB} Dark Summit the True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season by Nick Heil Everest Book Report
Read Ebook {PDF EPUB} Dark Summit The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season by Nick Heil Everest Book Report. Nick Heil sorts through the mess of the 2006 pre-monsoon North Ridge climbs in Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season. During the climbing, 12 people died on the mountain in a little over a month's time, matching the death toll of 1996, but without the killer storm. Heil explores the deaths of David Sharp and Thomas Weber and the near-death of Lincoln Hall (see his Dead Lucky ) high on the Northeast Ridge and plumbs the culpability of fellow climbers in their abandonment. The author frames the story roughly around the Himex expedition under Russell Brice, establishing him as the "Big Boss" of the north side at the time. Brice has a motley assortment of climbers and responsibilities that year, with the double-amputee Mark Inglis ( Legs on Everest ) and his film and support crew, a number of clients, a first-time Everest guide, and a documentary team for the Discovery Channel ( Everest: Beyond the Limit ) covering the whole parade. A number of other expeditions are on the mountain, including Abramov's 7 Summits Club (under whom Hall and Weber climbed), Mazur's SummitClimb, and a conglomerate of climbers on a permit for Asian Trekking, including George Dijmarescu (see Kodas' High Crimes ). Heil divides the book into two sections, telling the story chronologically, with David Sharp's story followed by the other two. In addition, Heil works in a pretty good condensed history of Everest, including telling of earlier tales similar to Sharp's. -
25 Years for Mountains and People – ICIMOD Celebrates Its Silver Jubilee
25 Years for Mountains and People – ICIMOD Celebrates its Silver Jubilee ICIMOD in 2008 In 2008, the International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD) celebrates 25 years of working for mountains and people in the Hindu Kush‐Himalayan region. ICIMOD is an independent regional knowledge, learning, and enabling centre serving eight member countries in the Hindu Kush‐Himalayan region, as well as the global mountain community. Founded in 1983, ICIMOD is based in Kathmandu, Nepal, and brings together a partnership of regional member countries, partner institutions, and donors with a commitment for development action, to help secure a better future for the people and environment of the region. Under its new strategy and medium term action plan 2008‐2012, ICIMOD is working towards a future where the mountain population of the greater Himalayas enjoys improved well‐being in a sustainable global environment. The new strategy focuses on understanding the impacts of climate change, and finding ways to strengthen people’s resilience and support adaptation. ICIMOD is celebrating its silver jubilee with a year‐long series of events focused on raising awareness of the impacts of climate change and the need to enhance the adaptation and resilience of mountain communities as well as ICIMOD’s way forward. The last five years have seen an increased awareness of how climate change directly impacts livelihoods, as well as the impact it has on natural hazards. ICIMOD is taking this opportunity to enhance the role played by the Centre in the region, and among global stakeholders, in promoting coordinated efforts to face the challenges of climate change. -
Climate Change, "Everestification,"
CLIMATE CHANGE, "EVERESTIFICATION," AND THE FUTURE OF MOUNTAINEERING ON ANNAPURNA I by Jamie Leanne Hutchinson A Thesis Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree Master of Environmental Studies The Evergreen State College June 2020 ©2020 by Jamie Hutchinson. All rights reserved. This Thesis for the Master of Environmental Studies Degree by Jamie Hutchinson has been approved for The Evergreen State College by ________________________ Kathleen Saul, Ph. D. Member of the Faculty ________________________ Date ABSTRACT Climate Change, "Everestification", and the Future of Mountaineering on Annapurna I Jamie Hutchinson This study aims to research how climate change is affecting the Annapurna Conservation Area in the Western Region of Nepal. This region consists of two mountain districts, three hill districts, and encompasses the Annapurna massif. Temperature and Precipitation data was obtained from the Department of Hydrology and Meteorology, Nepal, spanning thirty years (1988-2018). Monthly, Seasonal and Yearly data were aggregated and averaged for both datasets, and statistical analysis was completed using JMP and Excel. Results indicate overall warming in all districts by 1°C, with higher elevations being impacted more than lower. Precipitation tests show strong seasonal intensity in the summer months, sometimes predating monsoon season, with higher elevations receiving less snow than previously recorded. Additional focus was then turned to Annapurna I in order to analyze expedition data for the last thirty years (1989 – 2019). All 8,000-meter peaks within Nepal were studied for expedition size and experience in order to establish climbing trends that lead to "Everestification." Current trends show an increase in expedition size but a overall decrease in inexperienced climbers. -
Volume 28 # January 2014
THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER l Volume 28 January 2014 THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER Contents Expeditions and Explorations Indian Himalaya Eastern Karakoram and Ladakh First Ascent of Chamshen (707 m) ...........................................................3 First Ascent of Plateau Peak .......................................................................5 First Ascent of Cha Ri .................................................................................5 Explorations in Rongdo Valley ...................................................................6 Himachal Pradesh First Ascent of Khhang Shiling (6360 m) NE Face and Attempt on Kullu Makalu .....................................................................9 Kumaun & Garhwal Attempt on Nada Devi East ......................................................................0 First Crossing of Chaukhambha Col ........................................................11 Arunachal Pradesh Explorations in the Upper Subansiri, 203 ...............................................12 Karakoram First Ascent Kunyang Chhish East (7400 m) ............................................4 First Winter Ascent of Broad Peak ............................................................5 New Route on South West Face of Broad Peak .......................................6 First Ascent of K6 West (7040 m) .............................................................7 Laila Peak (6096 m) ..................................................................................7 First Ascent of Koh-e-Gulistan -
Savage-Torgler-CREMA
Center for Research in Economics, Management and the Arts Raumplanung: Rückzonungen sollen Einzonungen ermöglichen THE TIMES THEY ARE A CHANGIN': The effect of institutions on behavior, cooperation, emotional attachmentRené L. andFrey sentiment at 26,000ft Artikel erschienen in Basellandschaftliche Zeitung, 28. November 2012, S. 30, aufgrund des Referats «Mehrwertabschöpfung: Eine politisch-ökonomische Analyse», gehalten am 1. November 2012 in Zürich im Rahmen des «Forums Raumwissenschaften», Universität Zürich und CUREM Beiträge zur aktuellen Wirtschaftspolitik No. 2012-04 Working Paper No. 2013-10 CREMA Südstrasse 11 CH - 8008 Zürich www.crema-research.ch CREMA Gellertstrasse 18 CH-4052 Basel www.crema-research.ch THE TIMES THEY ARE A CHANGIN’: The effect of institutions on behavior, cooperation, emotional attachment and sentiment at 26,000ft David A. Savage QuBE – Queensland Behavioral Economics Group, School of Economics and Finance, Queensland University of Technology, GPO Box 2434, Brisbane, QLD 4001, Australia. Benno Torgler QuBE – Queensland Behavioral Economics Group, School of Economics and Finance, Queensland University of Technology, GPO Box 2434, Brisbane, QLD 4001, Australia. EBS – Universität für Wirtschaft und Recht, EBS Business School, ISBS, Rheingaustraße 1, 65375 Oestrich-Winkel, Germany. CREMA – Center for Research in Economics, Management and the Arts, Gellertstrasse 18, CH-4052, Basel, Switzerland. Abstract This paper attempts to determine if the introduction of a competing social institution has had a significant effect and shifted the pro-social behavior in the extreme (life-and-death) environment of mountaineering in the Hi- malayan Mountains over the last sixty years. We apply an analytic nar- ratives approach to empirically investigate the link between death, success and the introduced social institution (commercialization). -
Climbers' Journal
Climbers’ Journal A scientific expedition to Mount Everest featuring journal entries from Dr. David Lageson and Travis Corthouts, Montana State University Department of Earth Sciences Use this Climbers’ Journal in conjunction with the Everest Education Expedition curriculum materials www.montana.edu/Everest Dr. David Lageson Travis Corthouts M ONTANA NSF Access the full online curriculum, including lesson plans, classroom activities and multimedia files at www.montana.edu/Everest n Spring 2012, a team of athletes and scientists date and describe the fossil-bearing marine limestones embarked upon an historic expedition to com- that form the summit pyramid of Everest; and study- memorate the 50th anniversary of the first success- ing the major faults that cut through Mount Everest Iful American ascent of Mount Everest. to better understand how and when they formed (in Several of the team’s climbers, led by mountaineer particular, the Qomolangma and Lhotse detachment and author Conrad Anker, sought to retrace the steps faults). of the first American ascent of Mount Everest via the Dr. David Lageson, a Montana State University geolo- difficult West Ridge. In 1963, two Americans (Tom gist, conducted several research projects while part Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld) became the first to suc- of the expedition and was a grantee of the National cessfully climb Everest’s West Ridge then descend via Geographic Society. The expedition was sponsored by the Southeast Ridge, thus traversing the entire moun- National Geographic and The North Face with sup- tain. This was one of the most difficult high-altitude port from Montana State University. feats in mountaineering history.