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A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
Everest – South Col Route – 8848M the Highest Mountain in the World South Col Route from Nepal
Everest – South Col Route – 8848m The highest mountain in the world South Col Route from Nepal EXPEDITION OVERVIEW Join Adventure Peaks on their twelfth Mt Everest Expedition to the world’s highest mountain at 8848m (29,035ft). Our experience is amongst the best in the world, combined with a very high success rate. An ultimate objective in many climbers’ minds, the allure of the world’s highest summit provides a most compelling and challenging adventure. Where there is a will, we aim to provide a way. Director of Adventure Peaks Dave Pritt, an Everest summiteer, has a decade of experience on Everest and he is supported by Stu Peacock, a regular and very talented high altitude mountaineer who has led successful expeditions to both sides of Everest as well as becoming the first Britt to summit Everest three times on the North Side. The expedition is a professionally-led, non-guided expedition. We say non-guided because our leader and Sherpa team working with you will not be able to protect your every move and you must therefore be prepared to move between camps unsupervised. You will have an experienced leader who has previous experience of climbing at extreme high altitude together with the support of our very experienced Sherpa team, thus increasing your chance of success. Participation Statement Adventure Peaks recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Adventure Travel – Accuracy of Itinerary Although it is our intention to operate this itinerary as printed, it may be necessary to make some changes as a result of flight schedules, climatic conditions, limitations of infrastructure or other operational factors. -
Nuptse 7,861M / 25,790Ft
NUPTSE 7,861M / 25,790FT 2022 EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES NUPTSE EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES 2022 EXPEDITION DETAILS Dates: April 9 to May 20, 2022 Duration: 42 days Departure: ex Kathmandu, Nepal Price: US$38,900 per person Crossing ladders in the Khumbu Glacier. Photo: Charley Mace. During the spring season of 2022, Adventure Consultants will operate an expedition to climb Nuptse, a peak just shy of 8,000m that sits adjacent to the world’s highest mountain, Mount Everest, and the world’s fourth highest mountain, Mount Lhotse. Sitting as it does, in the shadows of its more famous partners, Nuptse receives a relatively low number of EXPEDITION OUTLINE ascents. Nuptse’s climbing route follows the same We congregate in Nepal’s capital, Kathmandu, line of ascent as Everest as far as Camp 2, from where we meet for a team briefing, gear checks where we cross the Western Cwm to establish a and last-minute purchases before flying by fixed Camp 3 on Nuptse. From that position, we ascend wing into Lukla Airport in the Khumbu Valley. We directly up the steep North East Face and into trek the delightful approach through the Sherpa Nuptse’s summit. The terrain involves hard ice, homelands via the Khumbu Valley Along the way, sometimes weaving through rocky areas and later we enjoy Sherpa hospitality in modern lodges with lower angled snow slopes. good food, all the while being impressed by the spectacular scenery of the incredible peaks of the The Nuptse climb will be operated alongside the lower Khumbu. Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition and therefore will enjoy the associated infrastructure We trek over the Kongma La (5,535m/18,159ft), a and legendary Base Camp support. -
Volume 30 # October 2014
Summit ridge of Rassa Kangri (6250m) THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER l Volume 30 October 2014 CONTENTS Climbs and Explorations Climbs and Exploration in Rassa Glacier ................................................. 2 Nanda Devi East (7434m) Expedition 204 .............................................. 7 First Ascent of P6070 (L5) ....................................................................... 9 Avalanche on Shisha Pangma .................................................................. 9 First Ascent of Gashebrum V (747m) .....................................................0 First Ascent of Payu Peak (6600m) South Pillar ......................................2 Russians Climb Unclimbed 1900m Face of Thamserku .........................3 The Himalayan Club - Pune Section The story of the club’s youngest and a vibrant section. ..........................4 The Himalayan Club – Kolkata Section Commemoration of Birth Centenary of Tenzing Norgay .........................8 The Himalayan Club – Mumbai Section Journey through my Lense - Photo Exhibition by Mr. Deepak Bhimani ................................................9 News & Views The Himalayan Club Hon. Local Secretary in Kathmandu Ms. Elizabeth Hawley has a peak named after her .................................9 Climbing Fees Reduced in India ............................................................. 22 04 New Peaks open for Mountaineering in Nepal ................................ 23 Online Show on Yeti ............................................................................... -
Himalayan Glacier Mass Changes Altherr, W
Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | The Cryosphere Discuss., 4, 2593–2613, 2010 The Cryosphere www.the-cryosphere-discuss.net/4/2593/2010/ Discussions TCD doi:10.5194/tcd-4-2593-2010 4, 2593–2613, 2010 © Author(s) 2010. CC Attribution 3.0 License. Himalayan glacier This discussion paper is/has been under review for the journal The Cryosphere (TC). mass changes Please refer to the corresponding final paper in TC if available. T. Bolch et al. Longest time series of glacier mass Title Page changes in the Himalaya based on stereo Abstract Introduction imagery Conclusions References Tables Figures T. Bolch1,3, T. Pieczonka1, and D. I. Benn2,4 1Institut fur¨ Kartographie, Technische Universitat¨ Dresden, Germany J I 2 The University Centre in Svalbard, Norway J I 3Geographisches Institut, Universitat¨ Zurich,¨ Switzerland 4University of St Andrews, UK Back Close Received: 1 December 2010 – Accepted: 9 December 2010 – Published: 20 December 2010 Full Screen / Esc Correspondence to: T. Bolch ([email protected]) Printer-friendly Version Published by Copernicus Publications on behalf of the European Geosciences Union. Interactive Discussion 2593 Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Abstract TCD Mass loss of Himalayan glaciers has wide-ranging consequences such as declining water resources, sea level rise and an increasing risk of glacial lake outburst floods 4, 2593–2613, 2010 (GLOFs). The assessment of the regional and global impact of glacier changes in 5 the Himalaya is, however, hampered by a lack of mass balance data for most of the Himalayan glacier range. Multi-temporal digital terrain models (DTMs) allow glacier mass balance to be mass changes calculated since the availability of stereo imagery. -
Lhotse 8,516M / 27,939Ft
LHOTSE 8,516M / 27,939FT 2022 EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES LHOTSE EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES 2022 EXPEDITION DETAILS Dates: April 9 to June 3, 2022 Duration: 56 days Departure: ex Kathmandu, Nepal Price: US$35,000 per person On the summit of Lhotse Photo: Guy Cotter During the spring season of 2022, Adventure Consultants will operate an expedition to climb Lhotse, the world’s 4th highest mountain. Lhotse sits alongside and in the shadow of its more famous partner, Mount Everest, which is possibly THE ADVENTURE CONSULTANTS why it receives a relatively low number of ascents. Lhotse’s climbing route follows the same line LHOTSE TEAM of ascent as Everest to just below the South Col LOGISTICS where we break right to continue up the Lhotse Face and into Lhotse’s summit couloir. The narrow With technology constantly evolving, Adventure couloir snakes for 600m/2,000ft, all the way to the Consultants have kept abreast of all the new lofty summit. techniques and equipment advancements which encompass the latest in weather The climb will be operated alongside the Adventure forecasting facilities, equipment innovations and Consultants Everest team and therefore will enjoy communications systems. the associated infrastructure and legendary Base Camp support. Adventure Consultants expedition staff, along with the operations and logistics team at the head Lhotse is a moderately difficult mountain due to office in New Zealand, provide the highest level of its very high altitude; however, the climbing is backup and support to the climbing team in order sustained and never too complicated or difficult. to run a flawless expedition. This is coupled with It is a perfect peak for those who want to climb at a very strong expedition guiding team and Sherpa over 8,000m in a premier location! contingent who are the most competent and experienced in the industry. -
Lhotse – 8516M
Lhotse – 8516m The 4th highest mountain in the world Ascent of Lobuche East to minimise the travel through the Khumbu Icefall Via the Western Cwm, Lhotse Face & Lhotse Couloir EXPEDITION OVERVIEW First climbed by Swiss climber Ernest Reiss in 1956, to this day Lhotse (Tibetan for “South Peak”) has only received just over 600 ascents compared to Everest’s several thousand. Why not join Adventure Peaks in climbing one of the most spectacular and dominating 8000m giants. Director of Adventure Peaks Dave Pritt, an Everest summiteer, has over twenty years’ experience organising and leading high altitude expeditions, including 8000m peaks. He is supported by Stu Peacock, a regular and very talented high altitude mountaineer who has climbed Broad Peak, has led successful expeditions to Cho Oyu and to both sides of Everest as well as becoming the first Britt to summit Everest three times on the North Side. The expedition is a professionally-led, non-guided expedition. We say non-guided because our leader and Sherpa team working with you will not be able to protect your every move and you must therefore be prepared to move between camps unsupervised. You will have an experienced leader who has previous experience of climbing at extreme high altitude together with the support of our very experienced Sherpa team, thus increasing your chance of success. Participation Statement Adventure Peaks recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. -
Lesson 3: Sea Floor to Summit
Everest Education Expedition Curriculum Lesson 3: Sea Floor To Summit Created by Montana State University Extended University and Montana NSF EPSCoR http://www.montana.edu/everest Lesson Overview: Explore the rocks that lie beneath Mount Everest’s summit. Simulate the formation of the Himalayan Mountains and Mount Everest while uncovering the dynamic processes of plate tectonics. Study the rocky layers that Dr. David Lageson researched on Mount Everest and investigate the geologic layers that sit below each climber’s crampons (ice cleats). Discover how the ancient sea floor now sits on this extreme summit and ponder whether Mount Everest really is the tallest mountain on earth. Objectives: Students will be able to: 1. Explain how the Himalayan Mountains formed. 2. Identify the rock layers of Mount Everest. 3. Explain the different ways each of the world’s four “tallest” mountains are measured. Vocabulary: fault - a crack with offset in the Earth's crust folding - when rocks or rock layers that were once flat are bent or curved gneiss (nice) - a high-grade metamorphic rock formed from preexisting granite or sedimentary rock (high grade metamorphism changes the rock so completely that the source rock often cannot be readily identified) Read more: http://www.answers.com/topic/metamorphism#ixzz1oxKeAZaE granite - an igneous rock that forms from the slow crystallization of silica-rich magma below Earth’s surface limestone - a sedimentary rock composed mostly of calcium carbonate formed in clear, warm, shallow marine waters marble - a metamorphic -
Explorersweb - the Pioneers Checkpoint - the Pioneers Checkpoint
Explorersweb - the pioneers checkpoint - the pioneers checkpoint http://www.explorersweb.com/print.php?id=20164 May 19, 2011 10:53 am EDT Himalaya and Everest wrap-up: pushing the edge in shaky weather, watch it live take 2 (Brooke Meetze) Another bunch of some 20 climbers summited Everest south in reportedly mild 10kts. Judging from the dispatches, the wind seems to alternate between hard and calm. More climbers are going up tonight, also on Lhotse, Everest North side, Kangchenjunga and Makalu. Watch for the oxygen-less attempts and a paraglide on Everest tonight, possibly even on the webcam just set up by the scientists at the Italian solar pyramid close to BC. Technology The EvK2Cnr Everest webcam has just been set up by the High Altitude Scientific and Technological Research. Here's from the press release: "The picture shows Mount Everest, 8,848 m, the highest mountain in the world. On the right you can see the South Col plateau, 8,000 m. The image is updated every 5 minutes, and you can even see the movements of clouds around the mountain. The webcam is active only with daylight, almost between 6 am and 18 pm, Nepali time zone." Everest South Gavin Bate (watch it live, take 1)/Adventure Alternative intended climbing up to Camp 4 (8,000m) on the South Col today, which means summit push tonight. "Looking at forecast it seems that there may be high winds tonight and tomorrow but if the team can make it up to camp 4 on the 19th May then it looks very positive for a summit on the morning of the 20th May! If not the 20th then the 21st which also looks like it will be favourable weather conditions." MountainTrip, led by Scott Woolums, aborted their summit attempt reporting strong and increasing winds. -
Implosion Connecticut Climbers Defied Death at the Top of the World, No One Imagined the View Would Turn So Ugly
Implosion Connecticut Climbers Defied Death At The Top Of The World, No One Imagined The View Would Turn So Ugly. By MICHAEL KODAS © The Hartford Courant November 14, 2004 Northeast Magazine Cover Story Anne Parmenter, co-leader of the Connecticut Everest Expedition, was too busy settling the team's accounts at a mountaineering company in Katmandu, Nepal, to notice the workers hanging a bright red banner honoring the group. " ... Congratulations To Mr. George Dijmarescu For Your Sixth Consecutive Summit, To Ms. Lhakpa Sherpa For Her Fourth World Record Successful Summit And To the Members of the Connectcut [sic] Mt. Everest Expedition," read the pennant, a full 10 feet wide. By mountaineering measures, it had been a successful expedition. A week earlier, four of the team's seven members reached the highest point on Earth. But when Anne stepped onto the balcony of the fourth-floor office of Asian Trekking on May 27 and saw the banner, she responded with anything but pride. "Take it down," the Trinity coach told Dawa Sherpa, the company's business manager. "If you're going to recognize him," she declared, her voice rising in anger, "I'm not paying my bill." Dawa brought scissors from his office to help Anne slice out George Dijmarescu's name. When Dawa found the edited version too ugly to display, Anne offered to pay for a new one. But the tribute never hung again. Nothing in the e-mail signed by George that I received five days later indicated he knew about the edited flag. Still, he was livid with Anne. -
Irish Mountain Log Issue 91
No 91 Autumn 2009 ISSN 0790 8008 €3.20 ( £2.20) THE MAGAZIINE FOR WALKERS AND CLIIMBERS IIN IIRELAND www.mountaineering.ie membership Gramang Bal, Himal Pradesh, objective of IMC summer expedition 2009. Photo: Sé O’Hanlon. Onwards and upwards Plans to recruit a new Chief Officer ongoing “Change will not come if we wait for some organisation. However, it continues to be As we start our new membership year, other person or some other time.” a time of great change in Mountaineering we are looking forward to the Autumn Ireland and, by the time you receive this Gathering in Dingle, Co Kerry, when we s clubs and individuals start issue of the Mountain Log, we will be hope that as many members as possible to make their way back onto engaged in trying again to recruit a new will be present to discuss the changes in Athe hills and crags after a Chief Officer for the organisation, a crucial the organisation and to enjoy the craic. summer possibly spent further afield, post as we move forward. The Board we on the Board have to take stock would like to acknowledge the excellent of where Mountaineering Ireland is work of the acting Chief Officer, Pat as an organisation and, more Dignam, and of all the staff members, importantly, of where it is going as north and south, who have shown we head into a new membership year professionalism and commitment beyond Ruairi Ó Conchúir for the National Governing Body for the call of duty in the past few months. Chairperson Mountaineering Ireland hillwalking, climbing and We also welcome Joe Dowdall of Co mountaineering in Ireland. -
Read Ebook {PDF EPUB} Dark Summit the True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season by Nick Heil Everest Book Report
Read Ebook {PDF EPUB} Dark Summit The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season by Nick Heil Everest Book Report. Nick Heil sorts through the mess of the 2006 pre-monsoon North Ridge climbs in Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season. During the climbing, 12 people died on the mountain in a little over a month's time, matching the death toll of 1996, but without the killer storm. Heil explores the deaths of David Sharp and Thomas Weber and the near-death of Lincoln Hall (see his Dead Lucky ) high on the Northeast Ridge and plumbs the culpability of fellow climbers in their abandonment. The author frames the story roughly around the Himex expedition under Russell Brice, establishing him as the "Big Boss" of the north side at the time. Brice has a motley assortment of climbers and responsibilities that year, with the double-amputee Mark Inglis ( Legs on Everest ) and his film and support crew, a number of clients, a first-time Everest guide, and a documentary team for the Discovery Channel ( Everest: Beyond the Limit ) covering the whole parade. A number of other expeditions are on the mountain, including Abramov's 7 Summits Club (under whom Hall and Weber climbed), Mazur's SummitClimb, and a conglomerate of climbers on a permit for Asian Trekking, including George Dijmarescu (see Kodas' High Crimes ). Heil divides the book into two sections, telling the story chronologically, with David Sharp's story followed by the other two. In addition, Heil works in a pretty good condensed history of Everest, including telling of earlier tales similar to Sharp's.