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The South Face of Dhaulagiri
181 The South Face of Dhaulagiri Franci Savenc Yugoslav alpinists selected the S face of Dhaulagiri (8167m) as a goal some years ago. A request for permission for spring 1982 was submitted as they returned from Everest in 1979. However, in the spring of 1981 approval was received for the post-monsoon period. Although the expedition to the S face of Lhotse had scarcely been concluded, and another was not planned, it was essential to accept the offer. The expedition leader immediately left on a reconnaissance mission and established 2 possibilities: to the left and right of the funnel-shaped central section of the face. After speeded-up preparations, 6 alpinists left on 3 September 1981 for Nepal. Accompanied by Mr Mihan Khadka as liaison officer, five Nepalese staff and 56 porters they left Pokhara on 12 September. The final section of the approach march was over virgin ground. On 23 September they reached the location of Base Camp (3950m), where the low altitude porters left them. Nevertheless by 26 September Base Camp had·been set up. Following a period of bad weather and research, the only acclimatization tour/climb possible was made to Manapanti (6380m) during 1-3 October. From 7-13 October the lower part of the face was explored, the climbers reaching an altitude of 5300m, fixing 400m of rope (grades IV and V) and pitching a tent at 5150m. 15 act.: Stane Belak, Cene Bercic and Emil Tratnik started upon the face and left their tent (5150m) at 0235 the following day. At 0900 they were halted for 7 hours by falling stones at an altitude of 5500m. -
A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
The Characterization Analysis of Rob Hall in Everest: Never Let Go Film 2015
Indonesian EFL Journal, Vol. 2(1) January 2016 AISEE p-ISSN 2252-7427 e-ISSN 2541-3635 The Association of Indonesian Scholars of English Education THE CHARACTERIZATION ANALYSIS OF ROB HALL IN EVEREST: NEVER LET GO FILM 2015 Risna Budiarti Department of English Education, University of Kuningan, Indonesia Email: [email protected] Nani Ronsani Thamrin Department of English Education, University of Kuningan, Indonesia E-mail: [email protected] APA Citation: Budiarti, R., & Thamrin, N. R. (2016). The characterization analysis of Rob Hall in Everest: Never Let Go film 2015. Indonesian EFL Journal, 2(1), 71-79 Received: 12-11-2015 Accepted: 23-12-2015 Published: 01-01-2016 Abstract: This research focuses on Rob Hall’s characterizations and moral values found in “Everest: Never Let Go” Film. The aims of this research are to find out Rob Hall’s characterizations portrayed in the Film Everest: Never Let Go and the moral values of the Film. The researcher used the theory about psychological analysis (based on Sigmund Freud in Schultz, 2005) to find out Rob characters through his words or sentences in script of Everest; Never Let Go Film and semiotics theory (based on Roland Barthes, 1968, 1990, 1991) to find out the characteristics of Rob Hall through pictures or signs which show his character in Film “Everest: Never Let Go” with print screen of each pictures or signs, and theory of moral value based on George and Uyanga (2014). Qualitative descriptive method was used by the researcher to find out the characteristic of Rob Hall in Everest: Never Let Go Film and the moral values of Rob Hall characterized in the Film. -
Himalayan Climbing Course Notes 2022
HIMALAYAN CLIMBING COURSE 6,119M / 20,075FT 2022 COURSE NOTES HIMALAYAN CLIMBING COURSE 2022 COURSE DETAILS Dates: Trip 1: April 20 to May 14, 2022 Trip 2: October 8 to November 1, 2022 Duration: 25 days Departure: ex Kathmandu, Nepal Price: US$7,500 per person Hone your skills in the Himalaya. Photo: Guy Cotter Cut your mountaineering teeth on the course that teaches big mountain skills in the home of big mountains—the Himalaya. Developed and led by our experienced IFMGA Mountain Guides, our Himalayan Climbing Course provides you with both a solid foundation in high altitude mountaineering and your first 6,000m summit! Learn high-altitude mountaineering skills from experienced Himalayan mountain guides and how to COURSE OBECTIVE look after yourself properly in this stunning, yet high consequence environment. Our Himalayan Climbing Our objective is to pass on the skills, which have made Course will help you on the pathway to becoming a us successful in our own climbing careers. The most mountaineer by introducing skills then immediately important attributes being: putting them into practice on climbs of increasing difficulty and elevation. • Current techniques for high-altitude mountaineering • A climbing standard appropriate to the objective At the completion of the skills development phase, • Attuned mountain awareness the course culminates in an ascent of Lobuche East at • Sound judgement of your own abilities 6,119m/20,075ft high. In addition to the actual climbing • Solid planning and preparation skills skills and mountain movement you will develop your • The basis of good decision making self-awareness and you can utilise the learning to springboard your high-altitude climbing career on an uphill trajectory! SKILLS COVERED We endeavour to cover the following skills during the course, however, factors such as weather and climbing conditions may dictate that some skills are not covered in full: Contents Copyright © Adventure Consultants Ltd 2021 3 Learn high-altitude mountaineering rope skills. -
Around Dhaulagiri Circuit & Dhampus
AROUND DHAULAGIRI CIRCUIT & DHAMPUS PEAK CLIMB 2022 TRIP NOTES AROUND DHAULAGIRI CIRCUIT & DHAMPUS PEAK CLIMB NOTES 2022 TREK DETAILS Dates: April 10–28, 2022 Duration: 19 days Departure: ex Kathmandu, Nepal Price: US$7,200 per person Trek through a remote and spectacular corner of Nepal. Photo: Guy Cotter The `Around Dhaulagiri Circuit and Dhampus Peak Climb’ is a challenging and adventurous camping-based trek into a remote and unspoilt corner of Nepal. Dhaulagiri is the highest mountain completely within Nepal hence the circumnavigation delivers an all encompassing perspective of the environment and those who live around it. We initiate the journey at low altitude then ascend There is much that is compelling about this trek, through a wide range of cultural and temperate zones which qualifies it as one of the most fascinating and in a region that sees minimal contact with the outside rewarding in the Himalaya. world. Agriculture and horticulture give way to dense untouched forests through to extreme mountain- scape as we travel around the mighty behemoth of OUTLINE OF THE TREK Dhaulagiri, the ‘White Mountain’. Trek members meet in Kathmandu, the capital of the After several days negotiating steep and exposed trails Kingdom of Nepal. You will be greeted at the airport connecting small hamlets of the authentic Nepal, we by our Kathmandu representatives, who whisk you are confronted by the bulk of Dhaulagiri that soars through the thriving city to your hotel. 5,000m/16,400ft overhead in one large sweep to its lofty summit. Once everybody has arrived, you will have a team meeting where introductions are made and the trip We continue upwards to Dhaulagiri Base Camp where outline is completed. -
Edurne Pasaban Exploración
“OCHOMILES”- EDURNE PASABAN EXPLORACIÓN ESPELEOLOGÍA EN PICOS DE EUROPA RETOS PERSONALES APNEA DINAMISMO EXPLORACIONES DE RÍOS EN LA PENÍNSULA DE KAMTCHATKA EXPERIENCIAS INVERNALES TRAVESÍA INVERNAL EN BICICLETA. PICOS DE EUROPA INMERSIONES BAJO HIELO.PIRINEOS EXPEDICIONES CONJUNTAS: ESCUELA MILITAR DE MONTAÑA – INTA- TVE RECOGIDA DE DATOS EN LUGARES EXTREMOS RIESGO CONTROLADO EXPLORACIÓN DE MINAS INUNDADAS GRANDES PAREDES TRABAJO EN EQUIPO SUPERACIÓN ESCALADA DEPORTIVA HISTORIA DE LA AVENTURA EXPLORADORES DE CUEVAS INUNDADAS “LOS PIONEROS DEL ESPELEOBUCEO” PROYECTO “OCHOMILES EDURNE PASABAN” ESTRATEGIA PARA LAS EXPEDICIONES “SHISA PANGMA” Y “ANNAPURNA” Edurne Pasaban nos comunica su intención de llevar a cabo la ascensión de las dos montañas que le restan para terminar los catorce ocho miles (Shisha Pangma y Annapurna) durante la próxima primavera y de manera consecutiva. Las fechas en las que se llevarían a cabo ambas expediciones van desde la primera semana de marzo a la última de de mayo (en torno a 90 días, 45 por expedición con traslados interiores). La estrategia que plantea es, viajar durante la primera semana de marzo al Shisha Pangma (Tíbet) y en torno al 12 de abril, haya ascendido o no al Shisha, desplazarse en helicóptero desde Katmandú al campo base del Annapurna (Nepal). Obviamente, si en estas fechas está a punto de hacer cumbre en el Shisha y tiene posibilidades podría retrasar un poco su desplazamiento a la zona del Annapurna. El traslado entre una y otra montaña se llevaría a cabo en helicóptero desde Katmandú, para evitar la complicada marcha de aproximación al Annapura. Edurne y el equipo de alpinistas llegarían aclimatados y podrían iniciar inmediatamente la ascensión. -
Nuptse 7,861M / 25,790Ft
NUPTSE 7,861M / 25,790FT 2022 EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES NUPTSE EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES 2022 EXPEDITION DETAILS Dates: April 9 to May 20, 2022 Duration: 42 days Departure: ex Kathmandu, Nepal Price: US$38,900 per person Crossing ladders in the Khumbu Glacier. Photo: Charley Mace. During the spring season of 2022, Adventure Consultants will operate an expedition to climb Nuptse, a peak just shy of 8,000m that sits adjacent to the world’s highest mountain, Mount Everest, and the world’s fourth highest mountain, Mount Lhotse. Sitting as it does, in the shadows of its more famous partners, Nuptse receives a relatively low number of EXPEDITION OUTLINE ascents. Nuptse’s climbing route follows the same We congregate in Nepal’s capital, Kathmandu, line of ascent as Everest as far as Camp 2, from where we meet for a team briefing, gear checks where we cross the Western Cwm to establish a and last-minute purchases before flying by fixed Camp 3 on Nuptse. From that position, we ascend wing into Lukla Airport in the Khumbu Valley. We directly up the steep North East Face and into trek the delightful approach through the Sherpa Nuptse’s summit. The terrain involves hard ice, homelands via the Khumbu Valley Along the way, sometimes weaving through rocky areas and later we enjoy Sherpa hospitality in modern lodges with lower angled snow slopes. good food, all the while being impressed by the spectacular scenery of the incredible peaks of the The Nuptse climb will be operated alongside the lower Khumbu. Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition and therefore will enjoy the associated infrastructure We trek over the Kongma La (5,535m/18,159ft), a and legendary Base Camp support. -
Volume 30 # October 2014
Summit ridge of Rassa Kangri (6250m) THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER l Volume 30 October 2014 CONTENTS Climbs and Explorations Climbs and Exploration in Rassa Glacier ................................................. 2 Nanda Devi East (7434m) Expedition 204 .............................................. 7 First Ascent of P6070 (L5) ....................................................................... 9 Avalanche on Shisha Pangma .................................................................. 9 First Ascent of Gashebrum V (747m) .....................................................0 First Ascent of Payu Peak (6600m) South Pillar ......................................2 Russians Climb Unclimbed 1900m Face of Thamserku .........................3 The Himalayan Club - Pune Section The story of the club’s youngest and a vibrant section. ..........................4 The Himalayan Club – Kolkata Section Commemoration of Birth Centenary of Tenzing Norgay .........................8 The Himalayan Club – Mumbai Section Journey through my Lense - Photo Exhibition by Mr. Deepak Bhimani ................................................9 News & Views The Himalayan Club Hon. Local Secretary in Kathmandu Ms. Elizabeth Hawley has a peak named after her .................................9 Climbing Fees Reduced in India ............................................................. 22 04 New Peaks open for Mountaineering in Nepal ................................ 23 Online Show on Yeti ............................................................................... -
Pobierz A/Zero Nr 15
Wstąp do KW Warszawa Zapisz się przez internet www.kw.warszawa.pl 2(15)/2008 www.kw.warszawa.pl bezpłatny ISSN 1641-9359 Ksià˝ka wyjÊç Słowo Prezesa 2 Orzeł KW, konkursy, dofinansowanie 4 Kinga Baranowska dwa razy na ośmiu tysiącach 6 Zawieszeni w przestrzeni 10 Atak 12 Chan 16 Denali 2008, AP Expedition 2008 20 Kaukaz Centralny oczami świeżaka 23 Europejskie The Shield 26 Polowanie na dziewice 36 Z roku na rok coraz bliżej... 38 Wspinanie w Rodellar 40 Krótkie podsumowanie sezonu zimowego 2007/2008 46 Podsumowanie sezonu letniego 2008 54 Obóz zimowy KW Warszawa 2008 Dolina Mięguszowiecka 60 Obóz letni KW Warszawa Bergell 2008 64 Wypadek pod Cassinem – wyciągnijmy z niego lekcję! 67 Co dwa kible to nie jeden 68 Imprezy KW Warszawa 74 TOPO 78 Bronek 86 Pragmatycy i romantycy górscy 88 Pożegnania 91 Po-słowie po-prezesa 92 Info klubowe 94 A/Zero – Biuletyn Informacyjno-Propagandowy K.W. Warszawa Nr 2 (15)/2008 ISSN: 1641-9359 Wydawca: Klub Wysokogórski Warszawa Redakcja: Mariusz Wilanowski – oficjalnie Naczelny, ostania instancja i nadzieja białych. Nieoficjalnie nie wygląda to już tak różowo. Artur Paszczak – nieoficjalnie szara eminencja, to on pociąga za wszystkie sznurki. Daje i zabiera, kontroluje finanse. Klara Żerdzicka – Art & Dizajn Dajrektor. Joanna Cybulska, Marek Grądzki, Anna Niepytalska, Magdalena Nowak, Aleksandra Ogłoza, Justyna Osińska, Aleksandra Stańczak – młode wilczki redakcyjne, marzące o wygryzieniu ze stołków starszych stażem redakcyjnych kolegów. Maniacy korekty, kopalnia pomysłów, młodzieńczy entuzjazm, pierwsi pojawiają się na imprezach i ostatni wychodzą. Kontakt z Redakcją: [email protected], [email protected] Do powstania numeru przyczynili się: Michał Apollo, Kinga Baranowska, Grzegorz Borkowski, Iza Figiel, Grzegorz Głazek, Jan Gondowicz, Tadek Kieniewicz, Jacek Kierzkowski, Piotr Morawski, Marcin Miotk, Justyna Osińska, Marek Raganowicz, Zbyszek Skierski, Zsolt Rácz. -
K2climb.Net - K2 and Karakorum by Climbers, News 1/4/10 1:36 PM
K2climb.net - K2 and Karakorum by climbers, news 1/4/10 1:36 PM [everest] [K2] [oceans] [poles] [space] [tech] [weather] [statistics] [medical] SEARCH K2 Home Latest News GoPro! Ultralight helmet mounted video camera Expedition List Web TV now at HumanEdgeTech Navigation 04:10 pm CST Dec 03, 2009 (HumanEdgeTeh.com) Expensive and difficult to operate, helmet mounted cameras have K2 Survival Kit been around for years. The Dream At $189 the new simple and light GoPro Point Zero video camera is a steal. GoPro come in two Permit & Paperwork models, standard and HD. Both camera kits Transportation include water-proof housing and a bunch of Food & Gear mounts clipping to your helmet, your chest, People the tip of your surfboard or just about anywhere your imagination tells you. Surviving Route The camera is so cheap you could get a Timeline couple. Pop one on your shoe, one on your Future head and one at the end of the ladders in the icefall and you'll be your own Everest Discovery Film Team. Links Mountain Tech GoPro is the world's smallest and lightest camera. GoPro is the lightest and smallest wireless helmet camera. We took it for an AT skiing Community test ride and at 139gr/4.9 oz (including water Newsletters proof housing) we couldn't feel it on our helmets. The camera shoots 170º wide angle so it's easy to get a focus and the resulting film-clips were very steady. Video Quality and Power The standard $189 model shoots 512x384 video at MJPEG, 30 fps. -
Explorersweb - the Pioneers Checkpoint - the Pioneers Checkpoint
Explorersweb - the pioneers checkpoint - the pioneers checkpoint http://www.explorersweb.com/print.php?id=20220 Jun 27, 2011 11:47 am EDT Pakistan wrap-up: French Alps in the news, aborted summit pushes in Karakoram (Angela Benavides) The French Alps, not Karakoram, were in the news this weekend after 6 climbers were found dead on a slope. In Pakistan, a couple of early summit pushes on the 8000ers were unsuccessful. Among them by French Sophie Denis, who wants them all, and she wants them fast. Teaming up with Lakpa Sherpa from FTA, she launched an attempt on Broad Peak yesterday. In the news Six French climbers were found dead at the Neige Cordier peak (3,614 m) in the Alps this weekend. Conditions were reportedly good and avalanche has been ruled out. Seems the rope team slipped at the top of the corridor and fell 200 metres (650 ft) fairly soon after starting out on Saturday morning. According to media sources, a missing alert was never issued in spite of the victims failing to reach their lodge Saturday evening. The mountaineers, aged 16 - 64 years, were found lifeless on the route by a hiker on Sunday morning. Broad Peak Last year, French young gun Sophie Denis wrote ExplorersWeb to introduce herself. Sophie saw the light during a hard trip that included new routes in the Andes: she would chain-climb the 14x8000ers. The budding high altitude mountaineer planned a strategy, and as it turned out, wasn't kidding. Sophie summited Cho Oyu and Lhotse within two weeks this past May. -
Week Ly English Practice
Weekly Edurne Pasaban: Two Lifetimes in One 21st May 2020 Before you read the article, Last Sunday marked the 10th dedicate my life to climbing them find this vocabulary in the text: www.englishcoachingprojects.net anniversary of Edurne Pasaban all. I just couldn't see myself as a [email protected] becoming the first woman to 8000er: a mountain over 8,000 metres high professional mountaineer: there climb all fourteen 8000ers. ECP to be knackered: to be exhausted were too many hurdles, above all coach Rob Hextall finds out to scupper: to ruin, to sabotage economic,” she said in an more about the Basque climber. feats: achievements, success interview with Planet Mountain. When I reached the summits of gruelling: exhausting, fatiguing But by the end of 2003, with six Aitzgorri, Aketegi and Aitxuri last hurdles: obstacles, barriers 8000ers under her belt, she had summer - that last peak being to settle down: put down roots become a candidate to win the the roof of Euskadi - I was both ‘race’ to be the first woman to English euphoric and knackered. I’d to be crushed: be broken, defeated conquer all fourteen. Economic needed three attempts to climb help came in the form of the ‘the white rock’, poor planning and bad weather Spanish TV programme ‘Al filo de lo imposible’ and having scuppered previous attempts. she became a full-time mountaineer. I’ve set myself the goal of climbing the highest peaks of It’s an exhilarating, addictive and dangerous life. Visit Edurne Pasaban's blog places that are important to me: England, Scotland, Some people never make it back to base camp and Wales, Ireland, the Basque Country, Euskal Herria and Edurne nearly lost her life twice - on K2 and peninsular Spain.