SOUTHWEST SWEDEN •• Orientation & Information 199

0 100 km SOUTHWEST SWEDEN 0 60 miles

Southwest Sweden S V E A L A N D NORWAY

Vänern 64 E20 ὈTresticklan National Stora Le Göta Stone Ship Park Åmål Ekenäs Settings Baldersnås The southwest is Sweden in a nutshell. For big-city living, gorgeous green Göteborg (or D A L S L A N D Herrgärd C North Strömstad a Dals-Ed n

Koster a

Gothenburg in English) offers all the restaurants, culture and theme-park screams you could Mariestad Skee Kyrka Håverud l

need. Take advantage of the excellent summer pass and explore every facet of the city for Motala South E6 172 Mellerud Läckö Slott Viken Koster E20 Karlsborg next to nothing. Tanumshede Vadstena Ὀ 45 B O H U S L Ä N Lidköping Skänninge The rest of the Västergötland region contains a funny old mixture of surprising sights: Fjällbacka Väversunda Skara Munkedal 49 Omberg Mjölby Nordens Skövde (204m) don’t miss Trollhättan, Sweden’s film-production capital; Läckö Slott, fairytale castle supreme; Ark Uddevalla Rökstenar Smögen Vänersborg Ekorna- and the quiet delights of the Göta Canal, which threads its way across the region. Herrestad Grästorp vallen Vättern Lysekil Trollhättan Fiskebäckskil 47 S Facing westwards onto the ocean, the beautiful Bohuslän coastline is a favourite Swedish Ljungskile E20 Falköping Visingsö Orust holiday destination. With its myriad islands, tiny fishing villages and mysterious Bronze Age V Ä S T E R G Ö T L A N D Lilla Edet 47 Åsarp 48 rock carvings, it manages to retain an enigmatic air in spite of all its adoring visitors. Mollösund Stenungsund Anten Tjörn 45 182 Europe’s third-largest lake, Vänern, strokes the edges of watery, forested Dalsland, a Skärhamn Alingsås Jönköping Skagerrak Mjörn Ulricehamn Rönnäng canoeists’ paradise and a county for really getting away from the tourist trail. For wilder 40 Marstrand Nääs To Newcastle waves and historical seaside towns, head for Halland. It has clean, sandy Blue Flag beaches Borås (UK) Öckerö GÖTEBORG (GOTHENBURG) Åsunden and the best windsurfing in Sweden. Vinga

27 Brännö E6 Kinna Styrsö E20 156 Tranemo To Frederikshavn Vrångö (Denmark) Rydet 41 154 HIGHLIGHTS To Kiel (Germany) S M Å L A N D Ride till you puke at Sweden’s number one SOUTHWEST SWEDEN K 153 attraction, Liseberg fun park ( p204 ), in Varberg Träslövsläge Bronze Age Artwork A Göteborg H A L L A N D n Fjällbacka e Växjö

m Puzzle over the weird and wonderful T l o Bronze Age artwork (p222 ) at the Smögen Trollhättan Falkenberg B Unesco World Heritage site in T

Tanumshede, Bohuslän E Åstol Halmstad Enjoy the strange film-set industrial Nya Älvsborg Fortress G Tylösand Liseberg Fun Park SOUTHWEST SWEDEN landscape of Trollhättan ( p226 ) A E4 To Grenå Laholmsbukten 117 Cruise down the river to the Nya Älvsborg (Denmark) T Markaryd Fästning (Nya Älvsborg Fortress; p206 ) in T Apelviken Båstad 24 Göteborg

Stroll round the picturesque fishing villages of Bohuslän, Orientation & Information or läns of Västra Götalands län (taking in particularly Smögen ( p220 ), Åstol ( p218) and Fjällbacka Götaland is a large area of Sweden that con- Västergötland, Dalsland and Bohuslän), Hal- ( p220 ) sists of five different regions or landskaps: lands län and Östergötlands län. Götaland Catch the waves at Apelviken (p232 ), the country’s premier Bohuslän, Dalsland and Västergötland in is also the region containing the two larg- windsurfing beach the west, Halland in the south, and Östergöt- est lakes in Sweden – Vänern and Vättern, land in the east (covered in the Southeast which are connected by the Göta canal. The AREA: 30,584 SQ KM HIGHEST ELEVATION: GALTÅSEN (362M) POPULATION: 1,805,683 Sweden chapter p142). These regions are latter lake divides Götaland into two distinct grouped together into the three counties parts. SOUTHWEST SWEDEN sverige.com; Kungsportsavenyn 31-35,SE-41136Göteborg) Kungsportsavenyn sverige.com; Hallandstrafiken you inEnglish. you’ll usuallyreach someonewhocanhelp but ifyoucallthetelephone numbers listed don’t alwayshave informationinEnglish, schedules, sites fares these andpasses; check therespective websites forroutes, (from midsummertomid-August). Also cheap travel inthepeaksummerperiod a low-key Nordic way).Thecheerful, relaxed Élysées’, and thecomparison isjustified(in isoftenboulevard nicknamedthe‘Champs outlook; itsshowpiece Kungsportsavenyn dinavia’s busiestport andhasacontinental by itsEnglish nameGothenburg. ItisScan- something like ‘yer-te-bor’) is also known turn upitstrotters. Göteborg (pronounced country thatshouldn’tmake bank yourpiggy attractions,isatopintroductiontothe tastic cheap fares, cheap accommodationandfan- In expensive Sweden, Göteborg, withits % GÖTEBORG Göteborg. See p330 . Västergötland ontheothersideandto tern, before continuingintotheregion of north of Linköping,intothegreat Vät- Lake from therollingcountryof Östergötland, (see Canal journey alongtheGöta p146 ) – thelongandunforgettablegion isbytaking nect major routes. townson much thesame and LinköpingtoMalmö. Express con- buses viaNorrköping line runsfromStockholm and Oslo. Intheeast,mostimportant Göteborg Malmö toKarlstad, Stockholm, The mainrailwaylinesinthewestconnect Västtrafik ora monthly passes it’s worthenquiringabout discountcards, spend sometimeinanyof counties, these transport links.Ifyouare planningto The followingcompaniesprovide regional Around Getting Turistrådet Västsvenska HallandsTurist for more informationonthearea: detailed Visitors thefollowingagencies cancontact OFFICES TOURIST REGIONAL 200 www.hlt.se) Box 538,SE-30180Halmstad) One of there- thebestwaysof seeing 031 /pop481,410 SOUTHWESTSWEDEN••Göteborg ( % ( 0771-41 4300;www.vasttrafik.se) % ( % 035-10 95 60; www.hallandsturist.se; 035-10 9560;www.hallandsturist.se; 0346-486 00,0771-331030; ( sommarkort, % 031-81 8300;www.vast offering in 1927. It’s nowoneof Sweden’s largest Volvo’s first out of carwheeled Göteborg inthe1980s. collapsed the industrytotally a major partof thecity’s economy, until profits of thatperiod. buildingsbuiltusingthe many grandiose wealth. Lookaroundandyou’llnotice the IndiaCompanymadehuge amountsofEast when merchant companieslike theSwedish tre. Boom-timecameinthe18thcentury, 1658, Göteborg expandedasatrading cen- major fires 1669 and1804. between byno less thannine city wasdevastated buildings wentupinsmoke longago –the ing. Mostof Göteborg’s oldestwooden fifth of theoriginalbuildings are stillstand- Hagais nowtherevitalised area: arounda tem inthecentre. Theworkers lived inwhat experts toconstructadefensive canalsys- theSwedesemployedDutchDanish attack, in shapingtheyoungcity.Stillfearful of the SwedesfoundedGöteborg. yielded toSwedenin1619.Twoyears later, years beforeby Denmarkforseven being 17th-century territorial wars, andwasheld times. Itwasakey strategic pointinthe ture, withportions datingbacktomedieval tre, is Göteborg’s oldestsignificantstruc- over theriver 3kmdownstream of thecen- Gamla Älvsborg fortress, guard standing History sunshine levels. city,theweatherisgoodwithhigh a coastal mellow island-hoppingtrip.Despite being tramsystem forawards ontheefficient pure Youcaneasilyescapewest- delight. tripsarethe city:insunnyweatherboat a parks andgardens. itscharmingtake timeouttostrollthrough tremendous 10%of Göteborg isgreen space: 21st-century multimediaextravaganzas. A 17th-century fortresses tostate-of-the-art street, sproutfromevery frommuseums well worthexploring.Heritage sites and Universeum isanotherwonder-world creams andglittery andthenearby lights, Liseberg, froths over withrollercoasters, ice student population. atmosphere isenhancedbythecity’slarge From the 19th century, shipbuilding was From the19thcentury, shipbuildingwas Once Swedenhadannexed Skånein Dutch part people playedanimportant river) älv(Göta runsthrough The Göta Scandinavia’s largest park, amusement www.lonelyplanet.com 30; Nordstanshoppingcomplex; noon-4pm Sun); 61; Kungsgatan the vastport. Most of Sweden’soilisimported through industrialandcommercialcity. important way. Today,Göteborg isSweden’smost ter of thecityrelies onthecompanyinsome Ford in1999),andit’sestimated thataquar- itwastaken overcompanies (although by www.lonelyplanet.com Akademibokhandeln BOOKSHOPS Information and Malmö. city centre, Oslo runsnorth–southbetween centre. Tingstadstunneln, northeastof thecity tionen); andbytheE6motorwaytunnel, (northof Centralsta- city; byGötaälvbron Älvsborgs bron(bridge), southwestof the is reached byroadviathemonumental by bifurcationof älv. theGöta Hisingen the northernislandof Hisingen, formed heavy industry(includingVolvo)are on central trainstation. just northof thecanalsystem, opposite the shoppingcentreThe huge Nordstan lies galleries,theatrestaurants, andstreet cafés. is theheartof thecitywithboutiques,res- TheAvenynsoutheast uptoGötaplatsen. nals (mosthave filledin)andleads been one of thecity’soriginal17th-centuryca- savenyn (knownsimplyas‘Avenyn’) crosses From thecentre of thecity,Kungsport- Orientation The mainE6motorway,justeastof the The formershipyardsandmuch of the % inadvance overstay. Youcanbook thepackage theInternet ortelephone thetourist officeon at Skr475perperson pernight.ItincludestheGöteborg Pass forthenumber ofnightsyou at touristoffices,hotels andPressbyrån newsagencies. withintheregion.by publictransport (including Liseberg andthemuseums), plusfree city sightseeing tours,bicyclehire andtravel dedicated trafficwardens).Youalsogetfree orreduced admissiontoabundle ofattractions is parkinGöteborg (whichhasthemostexpensive inSweden,andthemost street parking The excellent Göteborg Pass getting,even ifallyou’re discountcardiswellworth goingtodo GÖTEBORG PASS passes, spa visitsetc. Göteborgspaketet The cardcostsSkr210/150peradult/childfor24hours,Skr295/21048hours. It’savailable 61 25 00. A variety of more expensive packages includes theatre or concert tickets, casino61 2500.Avariety ofmore tickets, includestheatre expensive orconcert packages h Nordstan shoppingcomplex 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pmSat, 10am-7pm Mon-Fri,

Kungsgatan is an accommodation package offered isanaccommodationpackage atvarioushotels withpricesstarting h ( 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, % 15 0284; ( % 61 70 Skr43; English-language newspapersandmagazines. 10am-4pmSat,noon-3pmSun)For 6.30pm Mon-Fri, h Ericson Terminalen. busterminaland thelong-distance Nils up to24hr) language books. 7am-8pmSat,8.30am-9pmSun)English- 9pm Mon-Fri, issued withausernameandpassword. vouchers fromthecoin-operatedmachinesandyou’llbe shoponVasaplatsen.tionen &the7-Eleven Tologon,buy Skr19) SidewalkExpress computersare foundatCentralsta- h Police station emergency situationsonly. Luggage Luggage LEFT LUGGAGE Sidewalk Express Palatset IT Grottan GameNet ACCESSINTERNET Dial EMERGENCY aswell. until midnightandaplatformkiosk Press Stop.There isanotheroutletinCentralstationenopen 8am-8pmSat,8am-10pmSun)Similarto 10pm Mon-Fri, Pressbyrån Stop Press Pocketshop language booksinthecity. ofEnglish- offer thebestselection of Akademibokhandeln 10am-2pmSat,closedJul)Thethree centralbranches Fri, Vasagatan 26-30; 10am-6pm Sat,11am-5pmSun); 1-10pm) until atleastmidnight)Alargebarandbilliardshall. % h SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••Göteborg ( 112 forfire, policeorambulancein ( 11am-11pm) % are available at Centralstationen are available atCentralstationen ( ( lockers % ( % % ( % % 13 24 80; Ekelundsgatan 9-11;perhrSkr25; 13 2480;Ekelundsgatan

711 90 16; Viktoriagatan 22;perhrSkr30; 711 9016;Viktoriagatan ( 15 8445;Drottninggatan58; 778 7377;Chalmersgatan27;perhr % h 15 3790;Centralstationen; 10 4940;Centralstationen; (www.sidewalkexpress.se; perhr (www.sidewalkexpress.se;

(small/medium/large Skr20/30/40for 739 2000;ErnstFontellsPlats) 10am-6pm Mon-Thu, 10am-4pm Vasagatan ( % h h h 60 9680; 9.30am- 6am- 6.15am-

201 SOUTHWEST SWEDEN SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST SWEDEN 202 To NyaÄlvsborgs 4 6 1 3 2 5 GÖTEBORG (GOTHENBURG) Fästning (7km) 22 Klippan SOUTHWESTSWEDEN••Göteborg(Gothenburg) SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES NOMTO SLEEPING INFORMATION Varldskulturmuseet...... Valhallabadet...... Universeum...... Stadsmuseum...... Sjöfartsmuseet...... Röhsska Museet...... Rosarium...... Palmhuset...... Oscar FredriksKyrka...... Naturhistoriska Museet...... Masthuggskyrkan...... Maritiman...... Liseberg...... Kronhuset...... Kronhusbodarna...... (see 24) Konstmuseet...... Klippan...... Hagakyrkan...... Hagabadet...... Götheborgs-Utkiken...... Feskekörka (FishChurch)...... Domkyrkan...... Börjessons Cruise...... Börjessons CityBusTour...... Börjessons CityBoatTour...... Sidewalk Express...... (see4) Pressbyrån...... (see 4) Press Stop...... Post Office...... (see103) Police Station...... Pocketshop...... (see 4) Palatset...... Main TouristOffice...... Library...... IT-Grottan...... GameNet...... Forex...... (see 103) Forex...... Forex...... Forex...... Branch TouristOffice...... (see103) Apotek Vasan...... (see103) Dentist)...... Akuttandvården (Emergency Akademibokhandeln...... (see 103) Akademibokhandeln...... Akademibokhandeln...... Eriksberg Ostindiefararen 111

Oscarsleden A Chapm Torg 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 6 9 8 7 5 4 3 2 1

Karl Johansgatan G5 F3 G3 F5 F4 H6 H5 H6 E4 C5 F5 G4 G4 D5 D6 C5 E3 H5 F3 G5 A6 E5 E5 F2 E4 F4 F3 F4 F4 F4 F4 G4 E4 F4 G5 F5 F5 Kabelgatan EATING Andrum...... Aldardo...... A HerefordBeefstouw...... 28+...... Vanilj Hotel,Kafé&Bar...... STF VandrarhemStigbergsliden.. STF VandrarhemSlottsskogen... Scandic HotelRubinen...... Scandic HotelEuropa...... Radisson SASScandinaviaHotel.. Vandrarhem...... Masthuggsterrassens Linné Vandrarhem...... Hotell BarkenViking...... Hotel Vasa...... Hotel Royal...... Hotel Opera...... Hotel OdinResidence...... Hotel GothiaTowers...... Hotel Flora...... Hotel Eggers...... Göteborgs Vandrarhem...... Göteborgs Mini-Hotel...... City Hotel......

Oscarsleden B Lilleby HavsbadCamping(20km) To VolvoMuseum(6km);

Amiralitetsgatan ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

Stalhandstegatan Saggatan 33 104 47 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38

Stigb

F4 F4 G3 H5 F4 F3 H6 D5 G5 F4 C5 D6 G5 F3 F4 C5 D5 F3 F3 F4 D5 G5 F5 Bangatan ergsliden C Lindholm Trädgår'n...... Sushi &Soda...... Solrosen...... Smaka...... Sjöbaren...... Saluhallen...... Saluhall Briggen...... Magnus &Magnus...... Linnéa...... Kalaya...... Joe Farelli's...... (see63) Java Kaffebar...... Hemköp Supermarket...... (see103) Fiskekrogen...... Eva's Paley...... Espresso House...... Den LillaTavernan...... Cyrano...... Crepe Van...... Café Kosmos...... Café Garbo...... Brogyllens Konditori...... Brasserie Lipp...... Bombay...... Bliss...... 27 55 Slottsskogsparken 50 Keillers HISINGEN Park

Andreegatan

G ö t a ä l v August Kobbs 109 www.lonelyplanet.com Masthuggstorget Lundby 29 Strand Lundby Leden Andra Långgatan Masthamnsgatan ὈὈ ὈὈ Tredje Långgatan 110 Förstalanggatan

g 71 83 82 81 80 79 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 atan 54

F5 D6 D5 D5 F4 F5 F4 F4 D5 E4 G4 D5 E5 F5 E5 F4 D5 E4 G5 D6 F5 E4 G5

Vegagatan 68 Olivedalsgatan Rosenlund

49 28 Nordhemsgatan 69 77

62 Linnégatan 58 74 67 Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ www.lonelyplanet.com Järntorget

parken

Skans- Haga ὈὈ ὈὈ Skansen Trädgården (600m) Kronan ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING O'Leary's...... Dubliner...... Dancin' Dingo...... Göteborgs Stadsteatern...... Göteborgs Konserthuset...... Filmstaden...... Biopalatset...... Ölhallen 7:an...... Systembolaget...... (see 5) Systembolaget...... Rose &Crown...... (see63)

Övre Husargatan HAGA

To Botaniska Skeppsbron

Södra Allégatan Södra o

Skanstorget e 20

u Älvsnabben Nygata

n To GöteborgCity Västergatan d E

Airport (8km)

18 s

g a

72 t

79 a 87

26 11 Södra Kronhusgatan Götaleden Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ

34 107 21 Magasinsgatan 96

Föreningsgaten 76 Hamngatan

93 90 Storgatan Västra 64

Hamng Torggatan 92 91 90 89 88 87 86 85 84

Drottninggatan 48 24 Parkgatan 17

112 16

Vasagatan 66 Kyrkog Götaälvbron Gustav 95 Adolfs 47

G5 G5 F4 F4 F4 E4 F4 F4 S Larmgatan G5 torg

42 101 60 Viktoria gatan Viktoria

Bommen

7 94 89 86 Hamngatan Östra 2 Lilla torg 103 SHOPPING Nefertiti...... MataHari...... Jazzhuset...... GöteborgsOperan...... Åhléns...... (see 103) Nordstan ShoppingComplex...... Naturkompaniet...... DesignTorget...... Valand...... Scandinavium...... Nya Ullevi...... Nivå...... 88 56

Kungs- 19 torget F

Nordstan 80 Erik Dahlbergsg Erik 78 59 Vasaplatsen

85 Gullbergs 1 52 14 Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ 73 65 45 10 6

Ericson platsen 13 parken

Vasa- Götabergsgatan Aschebergsgatan Nils

106 Mårten Krakowgatan

102 Ö Lar Drottning- SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••Göteborg(Gothenburg)

mg torget 32 41 97

108 Strandgata 100 46 105 51 Trädgådsföreningen

63 Nya Allén Kruthus 4 Centralstationen 83

8 Parkgatan 57 Kungsportsavenyn 3 5

gatan 0 0 Gibraltargatan 30 38 71 31 53 84

HEDEN ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ 103 102 101 100 Södra vägen Södra Gullbergsvassgatan Odinsgatan 104 99 98 97 96 TRANSPORT 95 94 93 Engelbrektsgatan

5C5 F5 F3 F4 F4 F5 H5 H4 F5 E5 F4 E3 91 Sturegatan Sten

9 Stampgatan G 44

Ullevigatan Götaplatsen Älvsnabben...... Stena LineGermanyTerminal...... Stena LineDenmarkTerminal...... Statoil (CarRental)...... Nils EricsonTerminalen...... DFDS Seaways...... Cykelverkstan...... Cykelkungen BikeRental...... Catamaran Terminal...... 92 Berzeliigatan 23 12

Korsvägen Skånegatan ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ 75 Tampgatan Burgårds- parklen To ÖstraSjukhuset Valhallagatan 98 & StugbyarKarralund(4km);

43 Södra Vägen Södra Landvetter Airport(25km) Hospital (4km) 25 99 To KvibergsVandrarhem To LisebergsCamping Delsjön Lake(6km); H 35

0.5 miles

Marstrand (30km) Åvägen 112 111 110 109 108 107 106 105 36 Liseberg

Örgrytevägen & Stugby(5km);

37 40 Fabriksgatan F3 A6 D4 D5 F3 E2 F4 F5 1 km

203

4 6 1 3 2 5 SOUTHWEST SWEDEN SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST SWEDEN Norstan Complex 5.15am-7pmSat,5.15am-10.30pmSun); 9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pmSat); Mon-Fri, 10am-4pmSat); Mon-Fri, Foreign exchangeofficewithbranchesalloverthecity. ( 10am-3pm Sat,noon-3pmSun) Central andverybusy,withgoodfree brochures andmaps. &10am-2pmSatSunMay–mid-Jun &endAug) Mon-Fri 9.30am-6pm &10am-2pmSatSep-Apr, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri women. that islikely for solo tofeel comfortable pretty unsavoury venue andisnotaplace Itbecomesa ping complexlate atnight. alert andtake care shop- inthe Nordstan buttravellersropean standards, shouldbe Göteborg isareasonably safe citybyEu- Dangers &Annoyances office Branch tourist 2; Kungsportsplatsen office tourist Main TOURIST OFFICES Post office symbol. postal permarkets –lookfortheblue-and-yellow andsu- kiosks, newsagents, petrolstations are nowmainlyprovided by services Postal POST Forex along Kungsportsavenyn. complexand including insidetheNordstan withATMsBanks canbefoundeverywhere, MONEY Östra Sjukhuset Vasan Apotek clock on Medical information isavailable aroundthe MEDICAL SERVICES Stadsbiblioteket LIBRARIES 204 6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat,noon-4pmSun) 6pm Mon-Fri, of tramline1. ofthecentre, neartheterminusatend 5km northeast Akuttandvården emergency dentaltreatment. access for15/30minwithout/withlibrarycard). (free Internet good caféandamoderncomputersection newspapersandmagazines,booksinEnglish,a imported 11am-5pmSat&Sun)Thecitylibraryhas 8pm Mon-Fri, h h 8am-10pm) Late-night pharmacy. 8am-10pm) Late-night 7am-9pm Mon-Sat); SOUTHWESTSWEDEN••Göteborg ( % 0200-22 2220;www.forex.se) (Nordstancomplex; % ( h ( 703 1500. % ( ( ( % 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) 10am-4pmSat) 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, % % h 0771-45 0450;Nordstancomplex; ( % 343 4000)Largehospitalabout Landvetter airport Landvetter airport Kungsportsplatsen (Nordstan complex; Kungsportsavenyn 22 Kungsportsavenyn 61 6500;Götaplatsen; 80 7800;Stampgatan2)For 9.30am-8pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 61 2500;www.goteborg.com; h 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, ( ( Centralstationen h h ( h h 5.15am- 9am-7pm 9am-7pm h 10am- 9am-7pm 9am-7pm 10am-

ing Christmas period) ing Christmas Skr60/free; 5pm Tue-Sun, to8pmWedrest ofyr) adult/under 20yrSkr40/free; Apr) &Jun,11am-6pm Tue-Sun, to8pmWed Sep- & SunMay to8pmWed,11am-6pmSat & Aug,10am-6pmMon-Fri, Skr110/395, highseason Skr135/495; .universeum.se; SödraVägen; lowseasonindividual/family shops. have andseveral cafés attached, specialist covered bytheGöteborg Pass. Allhave good strongest attractions:admission tomostis areAfter Liseberg museums Göteborg’s MUSEUMS theme park Sweden’s mostpopularattractionisthis LISEBERG Sights The spectacular The spectacular Universeum seum Viking vessel, isondisplayatthe The Äskekärr Ship, Sweden’sonlyoriginal Stadsmuseum Swedish East IndiaCompany). Swedish East the huge 18th-centuryformerHQ of the is located in Indian porcelain(themuseum history, andanimpressive amount of East collections, lotsof information onthecity’s period. There are othergoodarchaeological treasure troves andweaponryfromthesame check thewebsite. Skr265/335). Openinghours are complex– tobuyapass(one/twodays makes sense pons (Skr15each) pergo,butitprobably summer shows and concerts. castlesforsmallerkids,andfrequent fairytale panorama. There are plentyof and carousels a slowspinningdancewithbreathtaking Tower, 83mabove theground,climaxes in your lunch, theridetotopof theLiseberg Forviewsof seconds. thecity withoutlosing you’re blasted from0to75kphinundertwo der, and2005’snewrideKanonen, where ample, the90kphwoodenrollercoaster Bal- they’refeels asthough allvisitingatonce!). million visitors year(andsometimesit every gen orGetebergsled. Theparkgets over three Take tram4or5,andenter from Örgrytevä- Each ride costs between oneandfourcou- ridecostsbetween Each There are afew fairlybigrides–forex- isonefor familiesandnature-lovers. A

( % h 61 27 70; Östindiska huset,NorraHamngatan12; 61 2770;Östindiska

( % to 10pm or 11pm most days May-Aug, &dur- to 10pmor11pmmostdaysMay-Aug, 40 01 00; www.liseberg.se; adult/under 7yr 40 0100;www.liseberg.se; adult/under7yr , southeastof thecitycentre. Universeum h 10am-5pm May-Aug, 10am- 10am-5pm May-Aug, www.lonelyplanet.com , alongsidesilver

( % h 335 6450;www 10am-7pm Jul Stadsmu- Munch, Anders Zorn, Carl Larsson). Room Munch, Larsson). Anders Zorn, Carl navian masters (Bruno Liljefors, Edvard and animpressive collectionof Scandi- Rubens, Van Rembrandt,Picasso, Gogh, worksbytheFrenchtable impressionists, crockery. strongly, butthere’s alsosomeoutrageous –furnituredinavian designsection features ultramodern 20th-and21st-centuryScan- For ahuge culture shock,descendtothe ture make uptheolderhistoricalexhibitions. and Japanese sculptures andbaroquefurni- ExquisiteChinese art anddesignmuseum. and StingrayLagoon. Creek,River, AnacondaSwamp Caiman more gruesome denizensdwellinPiranha rainforest: birdsandbutterflies flitter, while Things take atropicalturnintheabsorbing ers –sharktunnelahoy! andlakes tothesea of aScandinavian stream riv- downthrough fromwheremountain, youfollowthecourse funicular takes youtothetopof anindoor www.lonelyplanet.com 11am-9pm Wed,11am-5pmFri-Sun) sen; adult/under20yrSkr40/free; ( The maincityartcollectionisat Konstmuseet hours. twisting passages… uniformedsailors inthedim, expect tomeet and thebunkslookjust-slept-in–youhalf figures listen tocracklingradiomessages, from1952to1979.Inside,hunched service 121m-long destroyer biggest craft,thelabyrinthine the museum’s underwater warfare. is Anotherhighlight kaparen, down intothe69m-longsubmarine and afirefighter, linked bywalkways.Shinny vessel crafts, includingfishing boats,alight in theworld!It’smadeupof 19historical the largest floating northofNear theoperahouse thecentre is Maritiman Museet A carnivalof creativity awaitsyouat MuseetRöhsska 37; adult/under20yrSkr40/free; Aug, 10am-4pm Mar, Apr, Sep & Oct, 10am-4pm Fri-Sun Nov) Nov) 10am-4pmFri-Sun &Oct, Apr,Sep Aug, 10am-4pmMar, adult/7-15yrSkr75/30; Packhuskajen; 5pm Wed-Fri, 11am-5pmSat&Sun) 5pm Wed-Fri, % There’s a lot to see, soallowacoupleofThere’s alottosee, 61 2980;www.konstmuseum.goteborg.se; Götaplat-

( % a throat-tightening glimpse into athroat-tightening glimpse 61 3850;www.designmuseum.se;Vasagatan ship museum Småland, h h , Sweden’sonly 11am-6pm Tue &Thu, noon-8pm Tue, noon- . There are no h 10am-6pm May- which saw Konstmuseet ( % 10 59 50; 10 5950; Röhsska Röhsska Nord-

11am-5pm Sat&SunSep-Apr) h Johansgatan1;adult/under20yrSkr40/free; .goteborg.se; Karl shut. As go,this naturalhistory museums covered inside andthejaws were firmly mouth, untilan amorous couplewere dis- blue whale. Youcouldonce walkinsideits & SunSep-Apr) h .gnm.se; SlottsskogenPark; adult/under20yrSkr60/free; manded somedrasticreduction surgery. and thestrait-lacedcitizensof Göteborg de- private parts, lossus originallyhadcolossal co- to publicoutcryin1931.This7m-high bronze ering thelatest inNordicart. collection, andtemporary exhibitionscov- The Naturhistoriska Museet Sjöfartsmuseet ofThe mainmuseum maritimehistoryis Sjöfartsmuseet Tue, Sat &Sun,noon-9pmWed-Fri) museet.se; SödraVägen54;admissionfree; ofWorldCulture; (Museum is most futuristicmuseum Opened in2005,Göteborg’s newestand Varldskulturmuseet the ings of theuncannyNordictwilight. 22 isparticularlydistinctive, withitspaint- trafficking. into 2006,tobejoinedbyanexhibitionon ries aboutAfrica. Thelatter twowillrun Name Fever’, onAIDS;and‘Horizons’,sto- on themyths of theOrinocopeople;‘No writing, themesincluded:‘Sister of Dreams’, sive multimediaexhibitions.Atthetimeof phy, artandglobal politicscollideinimmer- the Swedishsailors killedin WWI. of woman,commemoratesstatue agrieving manstornet tion of Nordicmarinelife. Outside,the (included intheentryfee) hasagoodselec- name. Theattached with thesame vicious-looking a large collectionof figureheads, such as the ships, cannons,aship’smedicalroomand 9 or11willget youthere. Itincludesmodel about 2kmwestof thecitycentre. Tram3, Outside, Götaplatsen isdominated bythe Outside, Götaplatsen There’s also aninteresting sculpture hall, 11am-5pm May-Aug, 9am-4pm Tue-Fri, 11am-5pmSat 9am-4pmTue-Fri, 11am-5pm May-Aug, 10am-5pm May-Aug, 9am-4pm Tue-Fri, to8pmWed, 9am-4pmTue-Fri, 10am-5pm May-Aug, Hasselblad Center Natural History Museum Natural History SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••Göteborg Poseidon fountain (Mariner’s Tower),toppedbya contains the world’s only stuffed theworld’sonlystuffed contains

( % Vinthunden 61 2900;www.sjofartsmuseum

( % % 20 3530) , which wasunveiled 63 2730;www.varldskultur , byStigbergstorget , where ethnogra-

Varldskulturmuseet ( fromthefrigate % photographic 775 2400;www h aquarium noon-5pm noon-5pm 205 Sjö-

SOUTHWEST SWEDEN SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST SWEDEN Sep-Apr). /under 20yrSkr20/free; Eketrägatan, thenbus27. get towithoutacar. Take tram2,4or5to city centre atArendal. Fittingly,it’strickyto Swedish AirForce. including thefirst bythe jetengineused most cutting-edge designs– experimental thing fromthecompany’svery first cartothe the 19th-century est lunchtime Europe’slarg- escapes.Itcontains full of flowers andtinycaféspopularfor mission free; Sep-Apr) Skr15/free; free forholders of theGöteborg Pass. harbour, northof Mostare thetrainstation. opposite ). Tours departfromLillaBommen a dayfromMay (see toAugustbyBörjessons wide tropical lily pads. wide tropicallily pads. include thecamelliacollectionand the2m- five differently heated halls:planthighlights version of Palace Crystal inLondon,with gen outin1842,thelovelyLaid PARKS Museum Just celebratingits10thbirthday,the Museum Volvo (adult/6-12yr/family Skr110/60/280) from Göteborg. Boattripsand of-line. the dungeons forwhentheystepped out- the church builtfor Karl XII’stroops,and ing theGreat NordicWar. Visitors cansee action againintheearly18thcenturydur- andsaw the youngcityfromDanish attack, It wasbuiltinthe17thcenturytodefend Fortress borgs At themouthof älv,squatred theGöta Nya Älvsborgs Fästning the world.Toget there, take tram1or6. million specimensof wildlife fromaround is alarge andimpressive one,withsome10 206 with around 12,000plant species. 5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pmSatSep-May) 5pm Tue-Fri, h oaik Trädgården Botaniska The museum isabout8kmwestofThe museum the Sweden’s largest gardenisthe botanical The fortress isabout8kmdownstream 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pmSat&SunJun-Aug;noon- 10am-5pm Tue-Fri,

rosarium SOUTHWESTSWEDEN••Göteborg (City Park; isalarge protected area off NyaAllén, Thisgracefulbuildingisaminiature

( h % h , with around 2500 varieties, and , witharound2500varieties,and 7am-9pm May-Aug, 7am-6pmor7.30pm 7am-9pm May-Aug, % hashadaninteresting history. 66 48 14; Hisingen; adult/childSkr30/10; 66 4814;Hisingen; 9am-sunset, greenhouses 10am-5pm) 365 58 58; Nya Allén; adult/under 17yr 365 5858;NyaAllén;adult/under17yr h Palmhuset

10am-5pm May-Aug, 10am-4pm 10am-4pm 10am-5pm May-Aug, (Carl Skottsbergsgatan 22a; ad- are runsixtimes

contains every- contains Trädgårdsförenin- ( % 41 5773;adult guided tours Volvo Volvo Elfs- ,

Oscar Fredriks Kyrkogatan; Oscar Fredriks h century churches are and reredos. Twootherremarkable 19th- modern, butthere’s an18th-centuryclock fires. Many of thecathedral’scontents are previous cathedralswere destroyedbytown Västra Hamngatan; Slottsskogsparken vallen andwalkup. (see opposite ), ortake atramtoRamsbergs- city. Youcanget there onthecitybustour Göteborg is tecture imitations. Italian thanStockholm’s they’re abetter reflection of Swedish archi- Göteborg’s churches aren’t very oldbut CHURCHES Utkiken and coolcafés. buildings, independentknick-knack shops it’s nowapleasingmixture of oldandnew ’90s, thearea renovated wasthoroughly and and dates back to1648.Inthe1980sand The OTHER SIGHTS h Haga Kyrkoplan; Keillers Park Keillers 2pm daily. and birds.Feeding pondis timeattheseal andotherSwedishanimals mals, elk,deer Djurgårdarna Barnens Zoo perched onahillinthepark.There’s also is for astroll.TheNaturhistoriskaMuseet the harbourfrom thetop. for obviousreasons, hassuperior viewsof nicknamed ‘TheLipstick’bycity-dwellers upturned boat. Completed in1914,itsinterior islike an viewpoint over thewestern halfof thecity. come landmarkforsailors andasmashing neo-Gothic 10am-3pm Sun) into apicturesque heritage centre. Itincludes turned – which has been houses and salting industry –glassworks, foundries,breweries Just acrossDagHammarskjöldsleden, One of themostdistinctive buildingsin The classical The red-and-white ‘skyscraper’ The rocky heights of (87m)in The rockyheights Ramberget The 11am-5pm May-Aug, 11am-4pmSat&SunSep-Apr) 11am-5pm May-Aug, 9am-6pm summer,11am-4pmrest ofyr) Haga district

Klippan precinct ( %

15 61 47; Lilla Bommen 1 adult/child Skr20/10; 15 6147;LillaBommen1adult/childSkr20/10; (Hisingen) , ananimalparkwithfarmani-

was consecrated in1815–two wasconsecrated (Children’s Zoo; h Oscar Fredriks kyrka Oscar Fredriks Masthuggskyrkan h 11am-3pm Mon-Thu &Sat) isGöteborg’s oldestsuburb

(admission free; Domkyrkan 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pmSat, 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, give thebestviewof the h Hagakyrkan wasonceabustle of 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) www.lonelyplanet.com h May–early Sep) May–early

h (Gustavi Cathedral;

(Storebackegatan; (Storebackegatan;

(

24hr) % ( % Göteborgs- , awel- andthe 731 9250; isgreat 731 6160; . and , Valhallabadet swim/bowling complexistheindoorpool treatments ifyou’re feeling travel-weary. bath andallmannerof healthandbeauty you canswimforSkr100.There’s aRoman 6.30amand9am, aerobics facilities;between gymand sauna, theattached all dayanduse X held the disastrous X heldthedisastrous 1642and1654.Itwasherebetween thatKarl building, aformerarsenal builtinDutch style isthecity’soldestsecular Kronhusgatan, tram 3or9toVagnhallen Majorna. about 400meastof Älvsborgsbron –take kapell.Klippanisjustoff Oscarsleden,tas (nowahotel),David andStBirgit- Carnegie Danes in1619),abrewery openedbytheScot Gamla Älvsborgs fort(ransomedfromthe cottages, theremains18th-century sailor’s of www.lonelyplanet.com and exclusive for allthree). See p215 forbike hire. vided intothree parts(Skr20each, orSkr50 best routes inandaroundthecity.It’sdi- map forthe Cyclists shouldaskthetouristoffice Activities 6pm Sat,10am-6pmSun) tan 3; ters market. –it’saseafood ing remotely todo withecclesiasticalmat- closed Monrest ofyr) lundsgatan; 7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-3pmSat,11am-3pmSun) 7pm Mon-Fri, glass andtextiles. pottery, silverware,shops makingandselling consistsof work- from Kronhuset, several Kronhusbodarna in 1660–hediedwhileitwassession. relaxing Romanbathhere (Skr110). costsSkr40,andthere’sand sauna alsoa a permit. asyou’llneed shop details, fortackle office fish tan). Youcanalsohiretan). east of thecentre (take tram5to Töpelsga- the route fromthe touristoffices(Skr45). just east of thecity. Youcanbuya guide to (south of Göteborg) passing toStrömstad, Bohuslän,for 360kmthrough fromLindome Contained withinthevastValhallaContained gym/ Kronhuset The best indoor pool is the magnificent The bestindoorpoolisthemagnificent Outdoor swimming Bohusleden The curious forpike orperch here: ask thetourist h Cykel Karta Göteborg, 6.30am-9.30pm Mon-Thu, 9am- 6.30am-8.30pmFri, h , lying between Postgatan and Postgatan , lyingbetween

9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pmSatJun-Aug, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, is an easy walking trail that runs isaneasywalking trailthatruns ( % Hagabadet , justacrossthecourtyard , or‘FishChurch’, hasnoth- Feskekörka 61 1956;Valhallagatan 3; . For Skr360 you can swim . ForSkr360youcanswim isbestin canoes

riksdag ( %

( which showsthe % 60 0600;SödraAlléga- Delsjön lake

( % 711 3509; (parliament) (parliament) 40 3488) . Aswim h

, 6km , 6km Rosen- and and 7am- .sov.nu; Vegagatan 21;dmSkr120-140, s/dSkr260/330; Tour Frequency Departs from tions ontimesyoucango,socheck first. 6-12 Ticket Älvsborgs Fästning.There mayberestric- with theGöteborg Pass; asare tours toNya (adult/ great waytoget yourbearingsandare free yrs) the name‘Paddan They’re a Sightseeing’). minute citybusandboat tours (someunder Tue-Sun Jul–mid-Aug) year-round. tion of Allare avery standard. high open the outside,but inside offer accommoda- sometimes inspire littleconfidencefrom southwest area, inapartmentbuildingsthat Most hostels are clustered inthecentral HOSTELS Skr60 bookingfee. from Skr175/225forasingle/double, plusa canarrangeThe touristoffice private rooms PRIVATE ROOMS summer. ceptional discountsatweekends andin near thecitycentre. Mosthotels offer ex- hostelsGöteborg high-quality has several Sleeping of to Skr110/60 runstours fromLillaBommen Börjessons LillaBommen fiveto11am Skr120/60 Nya from10am StoraTeatern City Boat fivedaily City Bus Börjessons Tours .gbgkk.nu inSwedish) .gbgkk.nu p215. at least15different islandstoexplore –see southwest toSaltholmenandyou’llhave Contact Contact tosomeof close thebestclimbing,atUtby. Göteborg. Tram6,7and11gotoKviberg, Fästning Älvsborgs May-Aug Tour May-Sep Tour May-Aug For serious For serious STF Vandrarhem Slottsskogen STF Vandrarhem There’s somegood Vinga Hisingen SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••Göteborg (see (see p216 ) andaroundtheisland Göteborgs Klätterklubb Göteborgs

( %

(adult/6-12yr Skr130/65; 60 9670;www.borjessons.com) island hopping formore information. , amongstothers. Kungsportsbron rock climbing

, take tram11 ( ( % % h 42 6520;www 43 1386;www Skr95/60 6pm or7pm around run50- 207 i

)

SOUTHWEST SWEDEN SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST SWEDEN Skr480/600) /3-/4-bed rSkr250/360/450/580,highseason3-/4-bed Kvibergsvägen5;lowseason1-/2- www.vandrarhem.com; tion. Breakfast isavailableJunetoAugust. and inviting,withrenovated roomsandanall-dayrecep- .se; Tredje Långgatan31;dmSkr130-160,dSkr360) Clean Göteborgs Mini-Hotel Göteborgs and cabinsinthegreen grounds. tire room.There are alsohotel-style rooms are nodorms–instead yourent outtheen- tennis, twokitchens andtwolounges. There sunbeds, laundry,table including sauna, tre (tram6,7or11),hassuperamenities, a few kilometres northeastof thecitycen- bikes forrent (Skr50perday). room), there’s asheltered yard/gardenplus (bigkitchen, laundry,TV the usualstuff are greatlytory. Staff helpful,andbesides to Stigbergstorget), thisisahostel withhis- institute (tram3,9or11 century seaman’s Linné Vandrarhem s/d Skr350/370) Mölndalsvägen23;dmSkr150-160, borgsvandrarhem.se; dm/d Skr160/400) 10H; Masthuggsterrassen www.mastenvandrarhem.com; willgetdalsgatan youthere. be booked forafee. Tram 1or2toOlive- inner windowlessrooms.Parking spacescan may get cheaper aneven bedinoneof the Ifyou’restatus. really penny-pinching, you fet breakfast (Skr55)isacquiringlegendary two daysSkr90/160),andthehostel’s buf- sun bed.Youcanalsohire bikes (perday/ ment there’s and accesstoalaundry,sauna ing othertravellers. Forasmallextrapay- Slottsskogen isacrackingplaceformeet- Unlike manySwedishhostels, big,friendly 208 tram 4toGetebergsäng. andbigsunnyterrace.include asauna Take to Liseberg asearlypossible!Littleextras low thesigns. tram 3,9or11toMasthuggstorget andfol- catching anearlyferry toDenmark.Take Swedish books)–andishandyifyou’re three kitchens andalittlelibrary(mostly place. Ithasgoodfacilities–three lounges, trythisclean,quiet,well-run sleep, night’s -linne.com; Vegagatan 22;dmSkr180, dSkr380)Down the dm Skr120,s/dSkr250/300) Stigbergsliden10;[email protected]; Also recommended: Masthuggsterrassens Vandrarhem Masthuggsterrassens STF Vandrarhem Kvibergs Vandrarhem &Stugby Vandrarhem Kvibergs Göteborgs Vandrarhem Göteborgs SOUTHWESTSWEDEN••Göteborg Thisrecommended SVIFhostel, Nifty for those desperate toget Niftyforthose Ifyou’re lookingforagood ( %

Stigbergsliden Stigbergsliden ( % 12 1060;www.vandrarhemmet Inarenovated 19th- 24 1023;www.minihotel

( % 40 1050;www.gote

( (

% % ( % 24 1620; 43 5055; 42 4820; vägen; low/highseasonsitestSkr160/190; Skr730/1060; Drottningtorget; s/dfromSkr1425/1780,discounted to Skr895/1095) 850, officer’scabins/d s/dSkr600/ crew quarters [email protected]; Gullbergskajen; sites withcarSkr135/240,cabins&chaletsfromSkr495/1395) Olbergsgatan1;low/highseason 00; [email protected]; service (Skr210). service square. There’s alsoahandy valetparking vate balconiesoverlooking thebustleof the agoodfewRegency-era setting; have pri- are individuallydecorated, withnods totheir rooms as arailwayhotel in1859.Itspleasant Vanilj Hotell, Kafé &Bar Kafé Vanilj Hotell, Midrange HOTELS &StugbyarKärralund Camping Lisebergs CAMPING central-ish option. road fromSlottsskogen,thisSVIFhostelisanothergood counted toSkr595/895; hotel.entersol.se; Kyrkogatan38;s/dfromSkr895/1095,dis- the five parkingspaces. therecafé downstairs. Get earlyforoneof inthelovelycool, andbreakfast isserved range fromcountrychecks toScandinavian ally decorated rooms(renovated in2004) central street, cosyandhomelike. Individu- to make theirlittlehotel, located onaquiet choice. Theowners have madeabigeffort then change tobus23. toLillebyvägen, from nearCentralstationen tre inTorslanda. Toget there take bus25 20kmwestof thecitycen- is bytheseaside, Also partof theLiseberg ‘empire’, thisplace soturnupearly. unreservable, geared forfamilies.There are 35tent sites – to Welandergatan); asyou’dexpect,it’sfully camp site onetotown(tram5 istheclosest of accommodationaroundGöteborg. This The funparkownsandoperates arange private facilities. cabin, withproperbeds,extraluxuries and hind andpromote toanofficer’s yourself dogsbe- extra, youcanleave sea thesalty shared bathrooms andbunks.Ifyoupay Lilla Bommenharbour. Crew quarters have a hotel andrestaurant andmoored near ful four-masted ship, converted sailing into Hotell Barken Viking Barken Hotell Lilleby HavsbadCamping Hotel Eggers Hotel pi The

( ) Barken Viking % ElegantEggers wasfounded pi

80 6070;www.hoteleggers.se; Skr1195/1495, discountedto

( ( % www.lonelyplanet.com ) % Thisisanexcellent

( 711 6220;www.vanilj % 63 5800;barken.vik 56 5066;Lilleby- isabeauti- h

( May-Aug) % 84 02

discounted toSkr445/545) rensbergsgatan 6;s/dwithoutbathroomfromSkr495/595, discounted toSkr650/850) sakstorget 2;s/dSkr475/620,withbathroomSkr990/1195, leaf through. each roomhasabookaboutGöteborg to bles have Jacuzzis, andanicetouch isthat There’s acourtyardgarden,twoof thedou- place convenient forthecafésof Vasagatan. very helpfulstaff. with century concessions.It’salsoblessed agreeable roomsmake 21st- thenecessary andthe staircase, ceiling andsweeping retained,been complete withpainted glass has aged very well.Thegrandentrancehas www.lonelyplanet.com Hotel OdinResidence Hotel Top-End pleasing river views. 24-hour reception. Fourof theroomshave batteredslightly witha butcomfortable, from thetouristoffice. It’sanoldbuilding, Skr695/895) to Skr495/795,standards/dSkr1095/1295,discounted Norra Hamngatan38;budgets/dSkr750/895,discounted Skr790/990; Drottninggatan 67;s/dfromSkr1045/1295,discountedto .se; Odinsgatan6;apts/dfromSkr1495/1895; breakfast toyourdoor. isbrought vate bathroom. There’s nodiningroom,so For aboutSkr300extrayoucanhave apri- all roomshave recently renovated. been yards of Sweden’s‘ChampsElysées’), and cellent valueforsuch acentralhotel (within Sauna andJacuzzi are available toall. desks; allroomshave private bathrooms. larger, better decorated, andhave extraslike but adequate, roomsare whilestandard in anolderpartof thehotel andare small andbusterminal. Budgetstation roomsare stays ofstays longer thanaweek. andstereo). ThereTV are cheaper rates for (including afull kitchen, and lounge with foralong,happystay youneed everything for athome,and allcomeequippedwith the kindof décorandgadgets you’dkill hotel hasfabulousapartmentsfilledwith top pickforspaceandcomfort. This new i 6;s/dfromSkr845/995,discountedtoSkr625/825; riagatan Hotel Vasa Hotel Hotel Royal Hotel City Hotel Hotel Opera Hotel Hotel Flora Hotel ) Hotel Vasa isanattractive, family-run Conveniently located bythetrain i

( )

% Göteborg’s oldesthotel (1852) ( (

% ( ( % 708 4000;www.cityhotelgbg.se; Lo- % 17 3630;www.hotelvasa.se; Vikto- 13 8616;www.hotelflora.se; Grön- 700 1170;www.hotelroyal.nu;

80 5080;www.hotelopera.se; Handily central,notfar TheCityrepresents ex- ( % 745 2200;www.hotelodin i ) Our cocktail bar. oftheAvenyn withon-siterestaurants and heart action, Skr1795/2295, discountedtoSkr950/1250; 24;s/d scandic-hotels.com; Kungsportsavenyn to Skr1290/1290; Södra Hamngatan59-65;s/dfromSkr1870/1970,discounted the city,are popularwithnongueststoo. rant Heaven 23,withsuperbpanoramasover view fromthebath!Theskybarandrestau- bathroom windowssoyoucanadmire the ‘Design’ options:allsharp, cleanlinesand stylish andmodern,particularlythenew Towers (take tram5).Its704roomsare est hotel isthewhopping23-storey Goth ia pool andsaunaarea. discounted toSkr940/990; -hotels.com; Köpmansgatan38;s/dSkr1500/1700, some stuff, and cheerfully recommended.some stuff, homemade breads. whole- It’ssimple,tasty, lect fromaspread of hotmainsand salads, yourplate size,thense- for money.Choose all-day lunch which buffet isexcellent value Sat &Sun) mini plateSkr65/50/35; counted toSkr940/1040; 24;s/dfromSkr1690/2090,dis- towers.com; MässansGata Andrum Budget RESTAURANTS Many onSundays. diningplaces close less big-citypizzazzandoften lowerprices. good choice of restaurants too,butwith Avenyn. Vasagatan have andLinnégatan a you payfortheprivilege of diningonthe the thingwhensuncomesout:however, with restaurant/bars andalfresco eatingis able restaurants. Kungsportsavenyn islined Göteborg andfashion- isawashwithsleek Eating Rubinen Scandic Hotel Scandic Hotel Europa Scandic Hotel Göteborg, including: isn’t includedintheprice. a healthclubtohelpyourelax. Breakfast Perspexlight-up headboards!There’s also inwards. Snazzyroomshave bedswith thing of looking aspaceshipfeel tothose shops, barandrestaurant): there’s some- run aroundavastatrium(containing most luxurioushotels inGöteborg. Rooms Radisson SASScandinaviaHotel Radisson Hotel GothiaTowers Hotel The Scandic chain has several hotelsThe Scandicchain in hasseveral SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••Göteborg

One for the veggies, Andrum does an an Onefortheveggies, Andrum does ( % 13 8504;ÖstraHamngatan19;large/small/ pis h pi ( % ( pis 11am-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-8pm noon-8pm 11am-10pm Mon-Fri, %

( % 751 6500;europa@scandic ) Thisisoneof the 751 5400;rubinen@ ) Scandinavia’s larg- 750 8800;info@gothia ) With6th-floor

i ( % ) Inthe 758 5000;

209 SOUTHWEST SWEDEN SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST SWEDEN Sun) Allén; lunchfromSkr95,dinnermainsSkr145-285; 1am, closedSunOct-Mar) 8;mainsSkr120-240; Kungsportsavenyn selections. andvegetarianaway, withdecenttandoori good-value Indiandishes toeatinortake bay isquite abusylunchtime spot.Itdoes h great andanall-dayspecial. buffets grungystudentyveggie placewith a slightly choiceother purse-easy is‘TheSunflower’, to equate with‘vegetarian’ inGöteborg. An- ers, gravadlax anditsspeciality, meatballs husmanskost upwonderful, traditionalSwedish serves 1am or2amTue-Sat) mains aroundSkr210; Trädgår’n Midrange 210 bar snacksanddancetolive DJsuntillate. up toabigmeal,youcanshare tapas-style food. It’sareal joint:ifyou’re night-time not multicoloured andsuperb seats, fairylights, interiors inGöteborg, withlowdesigner 3; mainsSkr120-200; on Friday and Saturday nights insummer.on FridayandSaturdaynights mains. It’salsoapopularbar,withlive DJs Mediterraneanstantial andAsian evening plusmore andclubsandwiches, salads sub- mealsonitsmenu,includingCaesar light French-inspired bar-restaurant hasgood Andra Långgatan8;lunchSkr55,mainsfromSkr70) a larger pizzamenu. lamb mains(orfrogs’legsinPernod!), and There’s anàlacarte menuof fish,duckand dark-wood interior andafew outdoor seats. This invitinglittleFrench bistrohasawarm Squint andyoucouldalmostbeinProvence. excellent fish and seafood buffets. excellent fish andseafood restaurant’s award-winningchefs rustleup how hungryyouare. the Intheevening, and four-course mealdeals,dependingon here isatreat, hotplate dishes withsalads, lovely Trädgårdsföreningen park.Lunch day) hasasummerterrace backingontothe (until5amFridayandSatur-and nightclub Skr190; Bombay Solrosen Cyrano Bliss Smaka Brasserie Lipp Brasserie 11.30am-1am Mon-Fri, 2pm-1amSat) 11.30am-1am Mon-Fri, Thiscoolandspaciousrestaurant, bar SOUTHWESTSWEDEN••Göteborg

h ( %

5-11pm Mon-Fri, 2-11pmSat,2-9pmSun) 5-11pm Mon-Fri, (

( ( ( % % % 13 85 55; Magasinsgatan 3; lunch Skr74, dinner 3;lunchSkr74,dinner 13 8555;Magasinsgatan (Kaponjärgatan 4; dinner mains from Skr65; 4;dinnermainsfromSkr65; (Kaponjärgatan % (homecooking) like elkburg- 10 2090;[email protected];Nya 14 30 10; Prinsgatan 7;mainsaround 14 3010;Prinsgatan 13 22 47; [email protected]; Vasaplatsen13 2247;[email protected]; 12 0039;www.restaurangbombay.com;

Blisshasoneof thehippest ( % h h 10 58 30; [email protected]; 10 5830;[email protected]; Classicandclassy,this 5pm to1amor2am) 11.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 6pm- 11.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri, ‘Cheap’ seems seems ‘Cheap’ h until atleast Smaka h Bom- closed

Mon-Fri, from1pmSat&Sun) Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat,1-10pmSun) Skr100-160; 350; ford-beef.com; Linnégatan5;lunchSkr85,steaksSkr130- 365; For areally exceptional blow-out, gofor anglerfish withcherry and risotto. tomatoes withpickled cucumberandbakedmussels predominantly fishy,andinclude smoked andintriguing dishesareplace. Thoughtful gourmet restaurant isaspecial-occasion cal entertainment of abazoukinature. mezes perfect forsharing.There’s alsomusi- priced Greek favourites andagreat arrayof charming andauthenticspotwithreason ably 17; mezesSkr30-70,mainsaroundSkr100; view of asyoueat. busyLinnégatan andyougetsolid Africanoaktables, agood onrack of lamb.Solidmealsare served including T-bone steaks, veal sirloinand is theanswer,offering allmannerof meat, feeling anaemic,thisupmarket steakhouse then retire tothelively bar. yourmealwithacloudberrysoufflé, ish off andlingonberries.Fin- with mashedpotato 28+ Top End 6pm Mon-Sat) 8;mainsSkr155-255; magnus.com; Magasinsgatan h 12;pizzas120-200,mainsSkr150-260; Kungsportsavenyn meat andfish, range withatasty of starters. yard foralfresco dining.Meals are mainly than abusiness,andthere’s asummercourt- it feel more like someone’s(swanky)home phere. Lowchairs make andhandsometables fashionable crowdswithitsrelaxed atmos- ing up Saturday night’s beer.ing upSaturdaynight’s pasta. ItsSundaybrunch isperfect forsoak- pizzaandwith Sicilian-stylebruschetta, or get misty-eyedabout theoldcountry slap ketchup onyourUSburgers ‘n’ steaks, American restaurant-bar, where youcan pasta. dishes like gravadlax, fishsouporseafood courtyardgarden.Goforclassic pleasant (inside)or inanauticalsetting ish seafood well-preparedthe Haga Swed- district,serves Magnus &Magnus Magnus Sjöbaren Joe Farelli’s A Hereford Beefstouw A Hereford Den LillaTavernan noon-1am, to 3am Fri &Sat) noon-1am, to3amFri

h h ( % closed lunch,Sun&Moninsummer) 6-11pm Mon-Sat) 20 2161;Götabergsgatan28;mainsSkr295- h

Thismodernrestaurant draws ( % 11am-11pm Mon-Thu, 11am-midnightFri,

( 711 9780;HagaNygata25;mains %

10 5826;www.joefarelli.com;

( % ( Thisaward-winning % TheLittleTavern isa

( 13 3000;magnus@magnus www.lonelyplanet.com % This cosy place, in Thiscosyplace,in 12 8805;Olivedalsgatan AcasualItalian- 775 0441;www.here h Ifyou’re from 4pm h from from and gracefulsculptures scattered around. in elegance,withgrandchandeliers overhead Sat) Skr40-60; 2pm Mon-Fri, from5.30pmMon-Sat) 2pm Mon-Fri, Södra Vägen32;lunchSkr95,mainsSkr220-300; impressive cellarof over 400wines. ing roomcalledBlåskajsa, andanequally buildings. Ithasanimpressive circulardin- IndiaCompany restaurant informerEast to take homefromthebakery nextdoor). ads andarainbowof fresh (buythem muffins sal- wraps,meatandveggie pasta, potatoes, insummer.outdoor seating baked Itserves until late andhasplenty of evening every a Göteborg institution,thishuge caféopens Lilla Torget1;mainsSkr255-375; Espresso House Espresso Sun) h at thistraditional breads, pastries,coffee andcakes are served gatan 2;snacksSkr25-50; from mid-Junetolate August. (Skr795). Awkwardly,therestaurant closes the seven-course www.lonelyplanet.com ( cafés. All of Göteborg’s have museums excellent CAFÉS (Skr30 to Skr60). opportunities, plusfashionable caféfood large windows andprimepeople-watching area, inthesame coffee houses bothwith cafés. near theuniversity, there are quite afew feels thesocialsceneismore important. one up,although café snacksare served something crowds.Alltheusualcoffee ‘n’ any privacy),thisslickplaceattracts20- and sandwiches toitscustomers.and sandwiches hair andnipplerings.Itoffers cheap bagels dent haunt,thickwithdreadlocks, dyed meals, beautifullypresented onglassplates. lentils) are spunintosubtleandsucculent nettlesand ingly homelyones(gooseberries, Linnéa. Fancy ingredients andsomesurpris- upatexclusive, intimate cuisine isserved % Eva’s Paley Eva’s Linnéa Café Kosmos Café Fiskekrogen Brogyllens Konditori Along theleafyVasagatan boulevard, This is a magnificent fish and seafood Thisisamagnificentfishandseafood 10am-10pm Mon-Sat,11am-10pmSat,noon-10pm Onegiantmassof (don’texpect tables 774 1925;Vasagatan 40) Java Kaffebar h

( until atleast11pmMon-Sat) %

( %

16 1183;[email protected]; ( ( ( % % % 16 30 70; Kungsportsavenyn 39; dishes 39;dishes 16 3070;Kungsportsavenyn 397 50;Vasagatan 22) 10 10 05; www.fiskekrogen.com; 10 05;www.fiskekrogen.com;

konditori 13 1400;VästraHamngatan20; (Vasagatan 32) (Vasagatan degustation

h ( % andthevery trendy closed Sun) h 13 8713;VästraHamn- ModernSwedish . It’sswimming lunch &dinnerMon- Somethingof isatruestu- fishmenu Splendid Café Garbo Café are two h noon-

sportsavenyn 18); sportsavenyn 10pm) handy forthehostel district. ket hasanarrayof nevertheless lunch stalls the centralSaluhallen,thiscovered mar- for aroundSkr70. including misosoupand11piecesof sushi, excellentJapanese lunch deals, and serves of toseveral thehostelsThis outletisclosest branches inthecity. withseveral takeaway dishes. Kalaya hasauthenticThai noodleandcurry on FridayandSaturday. favourite of ‘flushedandclumsy’patronslate McDonald’s branchalsoa onLinnégatan, vannearthe should headtothistakeaway dishes togo. made pizza fastfood–home- pick upauthenticItalian fice, thisbusydeliisarecommended spotto light seafood fans. seafood light squamous things,the‘FishChurch’ willde- Sat, closedmid-Jul–Aug) Skr25, pastafromSkr40; 4pm-3am Fri &Sat) 4pm-3am Fri Mon-Fri, 9am-2pmSat) Mon-Fri, Skr60; ing onacoldday. stews (aroundSkr40),particularlywelcom- nowned foritsexcellentheartysoupsand in thecentralSaluhallen,thisplaceisre- 3pm Sat) There are various Systembolagets dotted rest ofyr) h Saluhallen SELF-CATERING outlets. shopping complexhasloadsof fast-food somethingquick,theNordstan If youneed QUICK EATS eateries andfoodstalls. the world.Itisalsofullof excellentbudget picnic pack,withmunchables fromaround is theperfect placetoputtogether your Feskekörka Kalaya Alexandras Sushi &Soda Hemköp supermarket Van Crepe Systembolaget Aldardo Saluhall Briggen 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pmSatJun-Aug,closed Mon 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, Bigsupermarket in the thickof things. h SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••Göteborg Thisclassicoldcentralmarket hall Amarket tofresh devoted fishand 11am-10pm)

(

( % % (Kungstorget;

al taglio

(crêpes fromSkr20;

(Kungstorget; 12 3998;Olivedalsgatan13;dishesfrom Kungsgatan

13 2300;Kungstorget12;pizzaslicefrom (Prinsgatan 4; (Prinsgatan (

Those with a sweet tooth withasweet Those % Kungsportsavenyn Kungsportsavenyn

Notasbigorbusy h Alsonearthehostel area, (Nordhemsgatan 28; Right bythetouristof- Right 711 3509;Rosenlundsgatan; (by the slice) and pasta (bytheslice)andpasta 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm 10am-6pm Mon-Fri,

( h % (Nordstan complex; % 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, h 711 8616;Kungsgatan 6) 711 7878) until 9pm) h ( % 4-9pm Mon-Thu, 18 6524;Kung- h Located Asushi 9am-6pm h 8am- 211

SOUTHWEST SWEDEN SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST SWEDEN the chicken-wing-and-burger variety. screens andbarsnacksof the walls,30TV bar withsportingmemorabilia plastering most opposite isthisAmerican-stylesports Kristinelundsgatan 16; Kristinelundsgatan 3am Wed,until 5amThu-Sat) pending on the night. pending onthenight. and there maybeanadmission charge de- Most clubshave anage limitof 25or27, CLUBS Entertainment gatan 50B) that are currently ‘in’ drinkingspots. There are bars on Järntorget alsoseveral whattakesportsavenyn yourfancy. andsee it’sviceversacases, –strolldownKungs- have inmost arestaurant although section, Swedish licensinglawsmeanthatbars must Drinking in Göteborg. areThese thetwo mostconveniently located wineandspirits. beer, about theplace,selling 212 free-Skr100; free-Skr100; plenty of choices. no food,wineorpretension, and justbeer, hasn’t changed inabout100years. There’s tle gem, that awell-wornSwedish beerhall place thatyoushouldcheck outisthislit- atmosphere. Kungsportsavenyn, withagreat ifraucous an entertaining Australianpubnotfaroff any nationalitiesare feeling leftout,here’s your-face drinkingthanatsomeotherbars. centration ontherestaurant andlessonin- tourists andlocals.There’s more of acon- This isan‘English-style’ pubpopularwith insummer.night musicevery Guinness pie,andlive Celtic pints of Guinness,barmealslike beef-and- findon thecontinent, ever lower tunesinthe Skybaren. arenights amix of danceymusic,withmel- other issoulnight; tion. Wednesday night floors of drawson,withseveral week ac- crowd-pleasing (andcrowded)club asthe intoa This bar/restaurant metamorphoses Rose &Crown Nivå Ölhallen 7:an Dubliner Dancin’ Dingo O’Leary’s Valand SOUTHWESTSWEDEN••Göteborg

( % As authenticanIrish pubasyou’ll

( h %

( % ( 701 80 90; Kungsportsavenyn 9;admission 701 8090;Kungsportsavenyn % until 3am Wed & Thu, until 4am Fri &Sat) until 3amWed&Thu,4amFri 18 3093;[email protected]; 13 9020;www.dubliner.se; ÖstraHamn-

711 5519;ÖstraHamngatan36)

( ( % ( h % % 13 6079;Kungstorget7) until 2amor3am) 81 1812;www.dancindingo.se; 10 58 27; Kungsportsavenyn 6) 10 5827;Kungsportsavenyn Vintage Valand, on

the Dublinerhas Just in case Justincase h One Al- until

35) The minimumage is20years. gets kitschy onFridayandSaturdaynights. to all,MataHari (partof &Kök) Gretas Bar in Göteborg toagayclub,butwelcoming Thursdays. ence, italsohostsrockandpopbandson 3am. Inanattempt tosnare ayounger audi- sions, usuallyFridaysandSaturdaysuntil more mature crowd toitslive musicses- get) h nightclub, restaurantnightclub, andcafé. jazz, bluesandethnicmusic;italsohasa large venue andwell-established forlive cool Nefertiti neartheFishChurch, isa the 10-screen company. andrunbythesame Nya Ullevi tions inSwedish. rent schedules andprices. and showsorwiththetouristofficeforcur- listingsformoviesCheck thelocalevents CINEMA, CONCERTS &THEATRE on first. soul, mainstream dance–socheck what’s There are –student,R&B, variousnights avenyn, drawsamixed, party-hardcrowd. the cornerof Vasagatan andKungsports- Skr210; fromwww.stadsteatern.goteborg.se; Götaplatsen;tickets gatan 35; interesting performances. the localsymphonyorchestra, withsome sical performances. modern balletandoperaassorted mu- Lilla Bommenharbour,stages classicaland rock concertsare held. whereAn outdoorstadium huge popand Valhallagatan 1) of thebiggest clubs. dance floorandoutdoorterrace, thisisone Swedish; Christina Nilssons gata; tickets Skr100-500) Nilssonsgata;tickets Swedish; Christina www.gso.se; Götaplatsen; 3) Dahlbergsgatan , showing blockbuster movies. Nefertiti Jazzhuset The twobiggest cinemasinthecentre are Göteborgs Konserthus Göteborgs Göteborgs Stadsteatern Göteborgs Trädgår’n GöteborgsOperan Nya Ullevi Nya Ullevi Scandinavium MataHari and until 5am Fri &Sat) until 5amFri h h Filmstaden closed summer)

until 4am Fri &Sat) until 4amFri (

( ( ( Anindoorconcertvenue near % % % ( % Anoldjazzclubdrawinga Biopalatset 711 15 33; Hvitfeldtsplatsen 6) 711 1533;Hvitfeldtsplatsen

10 2090;NyaAllén;admissionSkr100; ( 13 6949;www.gretas.nu; Drottning- 81 10 20; www.ullevi.se; Skånegatan) 81 1020;www.ullevi.se; % 13 3544;[email protected];Erik With its crazy lasers, hugeWith itscrazylasers,

( ( 81 1020;www.scandinavium.se; h % % Stages theatre produc-

(Concert Hall; (Concert closed summer) 13 00;www.opera.se in 0856-26 00 00;Kungsgatan

www.lonelyplanet.com (City Theatre;

Thenearest thing ( % 17 4500;Kungstor- % % Hometo 726 5300; Super- 61 5050; At

where the crowds gowildfor and theindoorScandinavium (see opposite ) pionships will be held at the Ullevi stadium. pionships willbeheldattheUllevi August 2006theEuropeanAthleticsCham- 18) office forthehandyleaflet andfreeart forsale admission.Ask thetourist souvenirs. Oslo (Wideroe) andParisOslo (Wideroe) (AirFrance). chester (City Airline), Munich (Lufthansa), Blue1 andCityAirline),London(SAS), Man- andSAS), Helsinkifurt (Lufthansa (Finnair, Copenhagen(SN Brussels), (SAS),Frank- cities includingAmsterdam (KLM),Brussels Sundsvall. See p323 details. forcontact toBorlänge, perweek Luleåand services toUmeåandseveral well asadailyservice airports (withSASandMalmö Aviation), as Bromma Arlandaand Stockholm Stockholm outdoor equipment. airport.se) h ment store includetheupmarketshops. These depart- Sweden’s largest mall,witharound150 Ullevi (see (see Ullevi opposite ) for aretwo biggest stadiums theoutdoorNya Göteborgers are avid sportsfans.Thecity’s SPORT www.lonelyplanet.com major entry point forferries. There are sev- Göteborg is Scandinavia’s largest portand a BOAT .se) airport Landvetter Twenty-five kilometres eastof thecity, AIR &Away There Getting DesignTorget Shopping London Stansted, GlasgowandFrankfurt. Säve, byRyanairfor budget to isused flights and cheaper designers. coming of aswellup-and- established affordable) store showcasingtheworks(usuallyquite and designstudios. which hasamapshowing thecity’sgalleries , bothstockingagoodrange of quality Göteborg hasover 30artgalleries,allwith Göteborg CityAirport Göteborg There are alsodirect toEuropean flights Nordstan shoppingcomplex Naturkompaniet hasupto30direct to/from dailyflights Mon-Sat) , some15kmnorthof thecityat Sells awiderange of Sells campingand NK

( Åhléns %

( % 774 0017;Vallgatan 14)

( ( % %

710 1000;ÖstraHamngatan42) ( %

94 1000;www.landvetter.lfv ( 13 5160;StoraNygatan33; % 333 4000;ÖstraHamngatan 92 6060;www.goteborg Konst iGöteborg, football

( % ice hockey 62 3976) matches, Agreat . In . In is

express.se) tram 3or9toChapmansTorg. the dailycarferry Take toKiel(Germany). torget. Sjöfartsmuseet. Take tram3or9toStigbergs- to three timesadayinsummerfromnear 67 67;www.svenskabuss.se) .se) 08 00) hours), andÖrebro (Skr281,fourhours). (Skr250, 3¾hours), Malmö (Skr281,three Jönköping (Skr120,twohours), Oslo hours), Helsingborg (Skr233,three hours), (Skr319, fourhours), Halmstad (Skr120,1¾ direct destinationsincludeCopenhagen to10timesdaily.Other hours) runseven (Skr400,seven toStockholm towns. Services and operates frequent tomostmajor buses sonplatsen) 9am-7pm Sun) ( There’snext tothetrainstation. a NilsEricsonTerminalen,The busstation, is BUS ( for more see details p328 . NorwayandtheUK: Denmark, Germany, terminals,eral car/passenger withferries to on Hisingen (take tram6toFrihamnen). and Newcastle(UK)fromSkandiahamnen (Norway) toKristiansand twiceweekly sails fered bythecompany. of- oninternationalfor details busservices incentralGöteborg.bus station See p326 towns such asHelsingborg (Skr200, 2½ Friday and/orSunday), seven hours, uptofourtimesdaily). seven (Skr320, daily)andStockholm hours, seven daily),Oslo4½ hours, (Skr220,3¾ seven huslän andVästergötland area. public transportwithintheGöteborg, Bo- ticketsand selling forallcityandregional holders. rikshavn, witha50%discountforrailpass dailydepartureshas atleastseven forFrede- nal nearMasthuggstorget (tram3,9or11) % % DFDS Seaways Further westistheStena Lineterminal for Säfflebussen Nearest tothecitycentre, the Swebus Express Less frequentLess (usuallyonetothree on Eurolines Faster andmore expensive runs services toCopenhagen (Skr280, runsservices 704 0000;www.stenaline.se) 0771-41 4300; catamarans toFrederikshavn catamarans departup SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••Göteborg has an office atthebusterminal hasanoffice has its main Swedish office atthe hasitsmainSwedishoffice

office here, office givinginformation ( %

( h 10 0240;www.eurolines.com; NilsEric-

% (

% ( 7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pmSat, 7am-10pm Mon-Fri, % 0771-15 1515;www.safflebussen 65 0680;www.dfdsseaways.se) 0200-21 8218;www.swebus runs buses tomajor runsbuses Svenska Buss Svenska Denmarktermi- SeaCat Tidpunkten Stena Line Stena

( %

( % 0771- 213 720 720

SOUTHWEST SWEDEN SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST SWEDEN cially forSwebusExpress andSäfflebussen). for travel fromMondaytoThursday (espe- quoted herethose foradvanced bookingsor Jönköping (Skr210,2¼hours) are daily. tures (Skr360,7¾hours) via forStockholm Oskarshamn (Skr300,4¾hours); depar- hours), Malmö (Skr250,fourhours) and 214 Prices canbeconsiderablylowerthan SOUTHWESTSWEDEN•• Göteborg NOT AVAILABLE IN PICK&MIX THIS MAP and Göteborg Cityairports.Forcarhire in Europcar andHertz have desksatLandvetter E20 motorwaydiverges eastforStockholm. there’s alsoacomplexjunctionwhere the Oslo toMalmö justeastof thecitycentre and The E6motorwayrunsnorth–southfrom CAR &MOTORCYCLE International car-hire companiesAvis, www.lonelyplanet.com out timetables inside out timetables formation booths tickets selling andgiving transport system; there are Tidpunkten in- te ie try Other wise TRAIN example oneof for town, contact the petrolstations, www.lonelyplanet.com ( ( tramsandferriesBuses, run by PUBLIC TRANSPORT ersgatan 19;perday/wkSkr120/500) stan to borrowabike forfree from With theGöteborg Pass, you’re entitled BICYCLE shouldcostaroundSkr250. minutes). Ataxi before departures flight (one-waySkr50,30 leave thebusterminal around2½hours arrivals.Forthereturn flight journey,they Ericson Terminalen leave 50minutes after airport willcostaroundSkr370. minutes). fromthecitycentre Ataxi tothe Ericson Terminalen (one-waySkr70,30 to/fromNils has afrequent Flygbussservice airport,25kmeastofLandvetter thecity, TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting kompaniet. areden (viaStockholm) operated byTåg- reductions tothepricesquoted here. inadvancewillbringdecent at leastaweek twohours.also every Bookingyourticket sive X2000trains(Skr1110,three hours) five hours), withquicker butmore expen- part approximately twohours every (Skr490, Sweden. other destinationsinthesouthernhalfof (Skr390, fourhours), aswellnumerous hours), Malmö (Skr480,3¼hours) andOslo direct trains toCopenhagen (Skr540,four SJ andregional trains,with ing. Itserves tion inSwedenandisnowalisted build- istheoldestrailwaysta- Centralstationen get in frontof on the trainstation in thesouthwestern partof town. Brunnsparken h % Buses fromGöteborg Buses CityAirporttoNils trainstothefarnorthof Swe- Overnight Direct de- Intercity trains toStockholm

( 7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pmSat,9am-7pm Sun) 7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 0771-41 4300)

h ( % 6am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pmSat& Sun) 6am-8pm Mon-Fri, 711 9770;Parkgatan 29) Statoil

( h Cykelkungen

make up thecity’spublic ( % 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat) 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 85 9780;AndraLånggatan46) Nils Ericson TerminalenNils Ericson

: bringsomeID. ( . % 18 4300;Chalm- Drottningtor- Cykelverk- Västtrafik , andat . , ,

SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••AroundGöteborg limited travel onall hours/30 days(Skr225/1400)thatgive un- from thetrainstation). to 14,converge nearBrunnsparken (ablock in Göteborg isbytram.Lines,numbered 1 whole cityarea costsSkr50. travel. A24-hourDagkort(daypass)forthe cheaper thanbuyingtickets each timeyou byrån newsagencies) andworkoutmuch cost Skr100(fromTidpunkten orPress- MaxirabattEasy-to-use 100‘valuecards’ Skr20/10 (Skr40onlate-night transport). acitytransportticketwise costsadult/child including onlate-night transport.Other- discount. travelling canexpectafare aloneatnight andonKungsportsavenyn.sen, Women atKungsportsplat- side Centralstationen, (30 minutes) from around5.30am to 1am minutes), Brännö(20 minutes) and Styrsö space available) costanextraSkr10. tral Göteborg toVrångö; bikes (ifthere’s Skr20) thattakes youallthewayfromcen- is valid,oryoucanbuyaticket (one-way runs roundtheislands.TheGöteborg Pass destination passenger-only ferry network to Saltholmen,fromwhere anexcellent16- for wealthycommuters. 1997; it’snowafavourite residential area of thearea toforeigners wasclosed until restrictions,Due toprevious military most Styrsö, that’slessthan3kmlong. buteven merous smallerones.Thelargest islandis green corner. ways findaquietstretch of orserene sand beaches, aroundandyou’llal- but wriggle It canget busyinsummer,particularlythe ago isjustashorthopfromthebusycity. A car-free the paradise, southern archipel- % Southern Archipelago AROUND GÖTEBORG ( One of thelarger companiesis TAXI the Västergötland area. and boatswithinGöteborg, Bohuslän and % Västtrafik hasregional for24 passes The easiestwaytocover lengthydistances Holders of theGöteborg Pass travel free, Boats runfrequently to Asperö (nine Take tram11from Göteborg citycentre There are ninemajor islandsandnu- 031 /pop4300 65 0000) . Taxis canbepicked upout- länstrafik buses, trains buses, Taxi Göteborg 215

SOUTHWEST SWEDEN SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST SWEDEN Thu-Sun rest ofyr) mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-7pm 11am-9pmTue-Sun May, hus.se; Husviksvägen;mainsSkr100-210; August, intooroutofsail Göteborg harbour. You canwatch shipsof allsizesandcolours beaches sandy andhauntingbirdcalls. serted treeless landscapeof rockslabs, ponds,de- andtheisland causeway from theendof thetrack leadstoastone towards thewestcoast.A15-minute walk thewoods follow thecycletrackthrough (www.branno.nu) isinSwedish only. vik inthesouthwest.Theisland’swebsite the northeast,butferries alsocallatHus- bikes withlarge traysattached. island is even moreisland is even basicthan onBrännö: and narrowstreets.houses Transportonthe island withaquaint village of white-painted Just southeastof Brännö, OTHER ISLANDS local it’shardtotake the youreyesoff though dance floorare itsbiggest attractions,al- Car-free pop 790 Brännö’s beaches andoutdoor BRÄNNÖ punkten booths (see p215 ). available orTid- fromthetouristoffices Archipelago, is theEnglish-language booklet the otherislandsare more limited. to (less frequently atweekends); services 216 grocery shopnearthechurch. local speciality excellentmeals,including the and serves Värdshus hasarestaurant, caféandbakery .se; s/dlowseasonSkr330/500,highSkr390/660) quay; italsooffers bike hire. place aboutakilometre southof theferry awayfromitallatthissimple,friendly Get men harbourtoHusvik’s .com) is available onboardatanadditionalcost. tour costsSkr130/65peradult/child; dinner of hours before returning tothecity.The where passengers canboogie foracouple On Thursdays frommid-Junetomid- From thechurch in thecentre of theisland, The busiestferry terminal isRödsten, in The bestinformationabouttheislands Brännö Värdshus Pensionat Bagge SOUTHWESTSWEDEN••AroundGöteborg runs evening cruises fromLillaBom- cruises runsevening lastmoped, Börjessons publishedbyVästtrafikand With the same owners, Withthesame the rödspätta bizarre-looking motorised

(

( % % ( % 97 3880;www.baggebranno 97 0478;info@brannovards 60 9670;www.borjessons (plaice).There’s a Köpstadsö Galterö pier h –astrange

Touring the Touring dance floor isasmall 11am-11pm ,

mid-Jun–mid-Aug, rest ofyr) 8am-noonMon-Fri 33; sons.com) stens Fästning stens and winewithyou. no ATM orSystembolaget, sobringwealth house-keeper. island in1890–hisfatherwasthelight- and painter, Evert Taube, wasbornonthe the 17thcentury.Thewriter, composer since hometoalighthouse and ithasbeen pressive rockslabs andgoodswimming, are partof anextensive nature reserve. northern andsouthernendsof theisland about 10minutes’ walkfromtheferry. The beach forswimmingonthewestcoast, ist office % Marstrand tioning fishingharbour. populated ing densely fromStyrsöA bridge toneighbour- crosses and pizzeriaatTången, andasupermarket. ourful historyof There’s smuggling. acafé ture of andacol- oldandmodernhouses, Tången, bothwithferry terminals), amix- Styrsö quay! neatlyparkedrows, which bythe you’llsee individuallynamedwheelbar-locals use & Sunrest ofyr) Skr60/20; sharing it…well,it’sworthsharing. people insummer,butifyoudon’tmind boatie types.Thevillage fairlyhumswith bour), andis den’s mostpopular visitors. Swe- Itcontains attracts affluent andpicturesque still houses islandsetting, ish royalfamily, Marstrand, withitswooden Once aspatownandfavourite of theSwed- from mid-Julytomid-August. to VingaviaNyaÄlvsborg Fästning,daily Skr130/70) fromLillaBommen(Göteborg) and there are smashingarchipelago views round tower reaches 96mabove level, sea tohardlabour.victs sentenced Itsimpressive län; later buildingworkwas donebycon- 1660s after theSwedishtakeover of Bohus- Looming over thevillage isdoughty Tiny The southernislandof In thecentralpartof thearchipelago, After disembarking, turnleftforthe After disembarking, h 0303 /pop1300 hastwovillage centres (Bratten and 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pmSat,noon-4pmSun 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, runsfull-daytours (adult/6-12years h Vinga Vinga

( % 11am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-4pmSat

, afortress constructed inthe ( , 8kmwestof Galterö, hasim- 600 87;www.marstrand.se;Hamngatan % Borjessons the 602 65; www.carlsten.se; adult/7-15yr 602 65;www.carlsten.se;adult/7-15yr weekend destinationfor gästhamn

www.lonelyplanet.com Donsö ( % Vrångö 60 9670;www.borjes , withafunc- (guest har- hasagood . There’s tour- Carl- cost Skr50. plete journeyshouldtake aboutanhourand by frequent passenger-only ferry. Thecom- (on Koön)thencrosstoMarstrand Arvidsvik quiches andsandwiches. wegian king, toprotect Norway’s southern the fortress wasordered in1308 bytheNor- Nordre älv,nearKungälv. Constructionof 11am-4pm Sat&SunApr) 16yr Skr30/15; Skr675/885/1180; [email protected]; Kungsplan;d/tr/q watch the boats sail by. watch theboatssail terrace where you cansitwithaG&Tand rant bytheharbour. There’s abigsunny restau-open air,headforthiscrustacean Marstrand with anaudioguide. youcanexploretimes), although byyourself tour (phoneaheadforEnglish-language from thetop.Admission includesaguided www.lonelyplanet.com ing ruinsof of nofewer than14sieges, thehulk- Survivor % Fästning Bohus Långgatan 6;B&Bs/dSkr850/1100) the islandare upmarket. the 13thcentury. in thecounty,and town hall the island.Buildingsof interest includethe foranhour’swalkround off ist officeandset dockside Skr30-60; h follow thewaterfront for400m. fromtheferry after disembarking right and with itsassociated Turn poolandsauna. hostel, continuingthetown’sspatradition ably pricedaccommodationisthisprivate along theharbour. Marstrand, includingcheap fast-food stalls great views. sea and creams. Acouplehave balconieswith andsimpleroomsdeckedbright outinblues northern endof theharbour,Nautic has From Göteborg youcantake bus312to Bergs Konditori Bergs Pick uptheEnglish-language Marstrands Varmbadhus Båtellet Marstrands Most of theaccommodationoptionson Hotell Nautic Hotell Marstrands Wärdshus Marstrands There are numerouseatingoptionsin 0303 noon-1am Easter-Sep) h , which istheoldeststonebuilding konditori, brochure (Skr10)fromthetour- May-Aug) h Bohus Fästning s

10am-7pm May-Aug, 11am-5pm Sep, 11am-5pmSep, 10am-7pm May-Aug, (

% ) Marstrand’s mostreason- ( Follow your nose to this tothis Followyournose % stand on anislandinthe stand selling fresh selling bread, cakes, For fresh seafood inthe Forfresh seafood Maria Kyrka Maria 610 30;www.hotellnautic.com; 600 96;Hamngatan9;snacks

( % 603 69;Hamngatan23;

Located atthe ( % , dating from , datingfrom 992 00;adult/6-

( % Discover 600 10; thanks to itsgeneral prettiness and spangling Mon-Fri rest ofyr) Mon-Fri Mon-Sat, 11am-3pmSunmid-Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-5pm Fregattan; Kulturhuset .bastkusten.se; Tjörn (on theSwedish mainland) totheislandof A large bridge swoopsfromStenungsund % TJÖRN &AROUND stop atthe always findaquietcornersomewhere. boat- andland-bound tourists,butyou’ll get verymagic. Itdoes busyinsummerwith and thesoft western allcreate light adreamy islands,picturesqueCraggy fishingvillages found alongthebeautiful Bohuslän Coast. Some of thefinestsceneryinSwedenis Bohuslän Coast BOHUSLÄN is available atthefortress. round tower remainsits substantial includearemarkable at thePeace of Roskildein1658.Nowadays, centuries, becomingoneof Sweden’stoys border. Thebuildingwasenlarged over the you canenjoythingsatyourown pace. consider hiringacarorbike inGöteborg so area suited forindependentexploration– somearen’tthough terribly frequent. It’san townstotheoutlyingislands exist, al- these towns astheE6route. Busconnectionsfrom Göteborg viamuch thesame toStrömstad, thatrunsfrequently from local trainservice crossing theNorwegian border. There’s a before toStrömstad shede andpassingclose Ljungskile, Herrestad, Munkedal, Tanum- Oslo viathelarger townsof Stenungsund, motorway runsnorthfromGöteborg to rounding area. brochures andespeciallymapsof thesur- and walktheremaining 500m. attheEriksdalstop(Skr40,25minutes)off 30 minutes fromGöteborg toKungälv;get can rent smallboats. fortress. There’s alsoacaféhere, andyou directlysetting acrosstheroadfrom mid–Sep) Skr130, dmSkr150,4-bedcabinsSkr495;campsite 2,Kungälv;sites Färjevägen [email protected]; If you’re heading northfromGöteborg, &Camping STF Vandrarhem Transport connectionsare good:theE6 The GrönExpress busrunsatleastevery 0304 /pop15,019

(www.tjorn.se) SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••Bohuslän This hostel is in a pleasant riverside Thishostel isinapleasant . Touristinformationforthearea tourist office tourist inStenungsund topickup . It’samagnet forartists,

( %

Kungälv 0303-833 27;www h 9.30am-6pm ( % h

189 00;

217 May- SOUTHWEST SWEDEN SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST SWEDEN mid-Aug, noon-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pmSatrest ofyr) mid-Aug, noon-5pmMon-Fri, child Skr10/5; 08; [email protected];Sillgränd8;adult/ rest ofyr) saltosill.com; mainsSkr130-300; story of theindustry. island toRönnäng. the näng. Bus350fromStenungsund crosses ing atSkärhamn,KlädesholmenandRön- from Göteborg’s busterminal toTjörn, call- (twiceSaturdayandSunday) times weekdays isoftenhimself hardatworkintheforge. the blacksmith’suniqueironwork;man ticularly recommended. the menu. and naturallyherringfeatures heavily on noon-5pm Tue, noon-8pmThuOct-May) Wed&Fri-Sun, Hamnen 6;adult/7-20yrSkr70/10; Museum; Museum; Nearby Åstol out more atthetiny tories here, todayreduced toahandful).Find herring (there were once30processingfac- fairly subduedduetothedeparture of the activityis places onthewestcoast,although far southof Tjörn, isoneof themostflawless The ‘herringisland’of Klädesholmen, tothe Klädesholmen ( here inmid/late August. competitions, theTjörn place Runt,taking sailors, withoneof Sweden’sbiggest sailing andafavenew watercolour museum; for 218 sive Skärhamn. Hamnen; winning gourmetcaféandrestaurant ing changing exhibits.There’s anaward- andstylishwatersidesleek buildinghous- yr) h und rock isdotted with rowsof that white houses bizarre dream –thistiny, barren chunk of ist office have afew facilities,includingasmall are ontheislandand themainsettlements % , with a café and a studio displaying Bert , withacaféandstudiodisplayingBert Neighbouring The Tjörnexpressen bus runsuptoeight Up thehillisaworkingsmithy, Skärhamn Skärhamn also contains theimpres-Skärhamn alsocontains 11am-8pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, noon-5pmTue-Sun rest of

( SOUTHWESTSWEDEN••Bohuslän 67 0087) % Nordiska Akvarellmuseet Nordiska hasagoodchoice of maincourses, h 67 1755;[email protected]; Gråskärsvägen9;

% Åstol ( % h 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat,11am-3pmmid-Jun– attached; itsfishdishesare attached; par- 60 00 80; www.akvarellmuseet.org; Södra 60 0080;www.akvarellmuseet.org; and 67 10 40; [email protected]; Södra 67 1040;[email protected]; lookslike something froma 3-7pm Jul–mid-Aug) Rönnäng Salt &Sill herring museum herring , inthesouthwest, h h

( % , which tells the (Nordic Watercolour 11am-6pm Jun-Sep, 11am-6pm Jun-Sep, summer, Wed-Sun 67 3480;info@ Smedja Vol-

( % Vatten tour- 67 33 67 33 at , a

gardens.se; Kyrkvägen; dfromSkr700; gardens.se; Kyrkvägen; 72 60; .orust.se) the water andhasexhibitsabout locallife. Skr170/235, sSkr270/335,dSkr340/470) 5, Rönnäng;dmSkr200; inland from theharbour, thisisthemost 2pm Sunmid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-2pmTue-Sat rest ofyr) en.se; NorraStrandvägen3; Sweden’s third-biggest island, % ORUST islands, andtrythefishat car-free streets, admire theviewsof theother reason it’sutterly loveable. Ambleroundthe There’ssea. notmuch todo,butforsome toperch ontopofseem each otherfromthe Super-cute Mollösund and 11.30pm). 6am hourlybetween näng (Skr30,roughly smokery withsummerrestaurant attached. are October andMay. between necessary here Reservations taurant inpeakseason. nearby.There’scanoeing alsoacaféandres- withgoodwalking,swimmingand setting, andoutbuildingsinadelightful farmhouse larger village of Ellös.It’slocated inanold in theisland’swest,about5kmfrom early Aug) mission free; Tjörn, itssouthernneighbour. craft madehere. Abridge connectsOrustto industry, withover halfof Sweden’ssailing ing villages. Ithasathrivingboat-building gård in thetownof Henån. meals. evening room. Theplant-filled terrace ispopularfor dorms where you don’thave forbag tofight and spacious,withonesizeablekitchen and Rönnäng, about 1kmfromtheferry) isgood scenic walkingpaths. perfect harbour,andthere are gently several day. Artsy-craftsyshopssurround a picture- huslän coastandisagreat placeonasunny west, istheoldestfishingvillage onthe Bo- Prästgårdens Pension Prästgårdens Rönnängs Vandrarhem You canreach Åstolbyferry fromRön- Orust’s There’s STF anoutstanding hostel, Mollösunds Hembygdsmuseum 0304 /pop15,160

( % h hassomebreathtakingly pretty fish- isinanoldfisher-folks near house 503 80; www.toftagard.se; low/highseasondm 503 80;www.toftagard.se; 11am-midnight mid-Jun–mid-Aug) h tourist office tourist Mollösund 11am-1pm &5.30pm-7.30pmlate-Jun– p h , intheisland’ssouth- )

ThisSVIFhostel (in ( 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat,10am-

% ( www.lonelyplanet.com % ( % 311 40;henan@bastkust Åstols Rökeri 67 7198;Nyponvägen 210 58;www.prast nearStocken

p ( % Orust ) Slightly 214 69;ad- , afish

( % Tofta Tofta (www is is 67 67 Skr850/950) lunch Skr80,mainsfromSkr150;low/highseasond 4pm mid-Feb–Oct, to 6pmmid-Jun–mid-Aug) hus.se; Strandvägen9; adult/5-14yr Skr75/40; mid-Jun–mid-Aug, phone fortimesrest ofyr) Södra Hamngatan6; yet retain ahomelyfeel. ent: they’re high-ceilinged andimmaculate, littlespot.Everydelightful roomisdiffer- www.lonelyplanet.com Havets Hus Havets Sights &Activities about thismore realistic attitude. län towns,butthere’s somethingpleasing its summervisitors lessthanotherBohus- town.It’slow-key, andpamperslish seaside spa resort of feels oddlylikeLysekil anEng- With itsairof fadedgrandeur, theformer % LYSEKIL &AROUND and phonetocheck restaurant hours. cream. bookforthehostel Outof season, Specialities are fishsoupandexceptionalice from locallysourcedandorganic ingredients. heartydishesmade byserving name foritself rent bikes. Thecafé/restaurant ismakinga hostel issmallandwelcoming,youcan excellent Emma’sisslapontheharbour. The midnight mid-Jun–mid-Aug) 75; www.caféemma.com; dmSkr220;restaurant kets and around town,includingbanks,supermar- and there are goodamenitiesfortravellers cal themes. cal themes. decorated withtouches of flowers ornauti- are well-turned-outrooms,tastefully eight fordinnerovercloses thesummer). There lunches intheflowerygarden(therestaurant is theplacetocomefordrinksandlight per 30minSkr20; video-rental shopwithInternet access. or Lysekil. to Henån; change otherwise inStenungsund directeral timesonweekdays fromGöteborg Sunday). TheOrustexpressen bus runssev- journeys(threeSaturdayand these buses Friday, continuingtoMollösundonsixof route around ninetimesadayMondayto harbour. Vandrarhem, Café & Restaurant Emma &Restaurant Café Vandrarhem, The Mollösunds Wärdshus There’s anICAsupermarket Bus 375runstheUddevalla–Henån–Ellös 0523 /pop14,767 tourist office tourist Thisupmarket 19th-centuryinn

Bogart Video Bogart (House of the Sea; (House oftheSea; h h 11am-10pm, tomidnightsummer)

9am-7pm Mon-Sat,11am-3pmSun ( % All things to all people, Allthingstoallpeople,

130 50; [email protected]; 130 50;[email protected]; ( ( % % % 147 13;Rosvikstorg4; 211 08; Kyrkvägen 9; 211 08;Kyrkvägen 196 71;www.havets ishelpful,

isabusy near the h h

( % 10am- 11am- 211 211 , a ceiling andwallpaintings. upturned boat,withvotive shipsandfine high season Skr140/220; Jul–mid-Aug) Skr140/70; mended 4½-hour Havets Hus:buytickets onboard.Recom- on large pink-granite beach slabs byasandy discounted toSkr795/1195; taurants. Theinterior oftaurants. the a harbourfullof boatsandafew goodres- there are cobbledstreets, wood-cladhouses, hourlyto roughly fjord depart once a week insummer.depart onceaweek (s/d fromSkr285/450) The touristofficecansortout Sleeping &Eating granite cure-all. bathingwasacomplete sea that Lysekil’s famous physician,whopersuaded visitors Curmanwastheresort’s style.Norse’ Carl builtinromantic‘Old houses seafront bathing hutsand dating backtoits19th-centuryspadays:old water beautiesare here. fish, lumpsuckers, anglerfish…allthecold- Wolf- which cutspastLysekil. true fjord, life fromSweden’sonly aquarium withsea rooms onoffer too;somehave views. sea typically goodSVIFchoice, withhotel-style not farfromHavets Hus.The hostel isa ‘beach girls’ runachoice of accommodation h historical theme. has characterful roomsallwithaseafaring/ and house, vated turn-of-the-20th-century inasensitively reno-the hostel. It’sbased folk, thisisamore upmarket optionthan Skr250/500, hotels/dSkr645/790; strandflickorna.se; Strandvägen1;dmSkr200,hostels/d a woodenlookouttower. rockslab, hasquietbathingspotsand coastal the local workinglife. glasspanesshowing paintings andstained Strand Vandrarhem &Hotell Strand Vandrarhem Passenger-only ferries crosstheGullmarn Perched onahill,theneo-Gothicpink- hassomeinterestingLysekil architecture Havshotell Siviks Camping Seal safaris Seal Out atthetipof theStångenäs peninsula, mid-Jun–mid-Aug) Stångehuvud Nature Reserve Stångehuvud Nature SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••Bohuslän church h lasting1½hours leave fromnear noon, 2pm&4pmSun-Thu, noon&2pmFri

( %

( h (

797 50;Turistaten 13;s/dSkr895/1395, forabookingfee of Skr75. % ( % totheislandof 11am-7pm) Curmans villor Curmans boat trips 306 6402;adult/under14yr h 61 1528;fax12727;sites low/ p mid-May–mid-Sep) ) Run by the same Runbythesame Fiskebäckskil p hassomesuperb

(adult/child Skr150/75;

( church % ) Thefriendly , withlotsof , thewooden private rooms private 797 51;strand@ islike an Käringön , where Built 219

SOUTHWEST SWEDEN SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST SWEDEN kon-tiki.se; Madenvägen 3) Madenvägen kon-tiki.se; Skr70; the mainstreet. around Rosvikstorg andeateries allalong teas andcoffees. washeddownwithallkindsofsandwiches, hotandcold quiche,lunches: salads, pasta, homemade caféserves front, thispleasant nature onthenearby islandof reserve gen harbour. up to15timesdailyinsummerfrom Smö- 8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7pmSat&Sunmid-Jun–mid-Aug)8pm Mon-Fri, ( stilted houses. to cometopplingfromoneof thealmost- east Asian –youhalfexpectJackie Chan ofWeirdly, sections itfeel almostsouth- Smögen isavillage outof time–andplace. twistingstreets, andsteep ermen’s houses, With itswaterside boardwalk,rickety fish- % SMÖGEN Uddevalla. ple of hours fromGöteborg via toLysekil Express cou- bus840and841runevery Getting There &Away rant, minigolf,dancefloorandlaundry. portunities. Facilities includeshop, restau- site inthearea, withampleswimmingop- 2km northof town,Siviksisthebestcamp 220 -fiskauktion.com; Fiskhall; Fiskhall; -fiskauktion.com; sea, it’sonthemenu. sea, it swims,scuttlesorstickstorocksinthe if prawns,halibut,salmon: Crabs, mussels, withtheoddmeatymain. fish andseafood and barspecialising,understandably, in Pråmen, anatmosphericfloatingrestaurant when there’s alively of prawns,lobsters andfish attheharbour, Fishingboats unloadtheircatches season. quiet, gofirst thinginthemorningoroutof packed withvisitors –toget peaceand bryg gan one daySkr150/250). courses andhires outkayaks(per three hours/ mains Skr150-250; % The classicwoodenboardwalk Boats There are afew fast-food placesonand The There’s a Pråmen Café Kungsgatan Café 0523 SOUTHWESTSWEDEN••Bohuslän 375 44; [email protected]; Torget; 375 44;[email protected]; h Kon-Tiki Dykcenter aroundtheharbourisusually

( closed Sun) %

( % 312 67;Skr50return) tourist office tourist 143 52;SödraHamnen;lunchSkr95, h Set backfromthesea- Set

noon-late) ( h % does boatdives, PADI does fish auction 8am Mon-Fri, plus5pm Thu) 8am Mon-Fri, 160 01;Kungsgatan2;lunch

( % Youcan’tmiss in summeronly 374 74;smogen.fkp@ leave forthe

(www.smogens h Smögen- 10am- Hållö . .

Easter, dailymid-Jun–mid-Aug) net.se; Hamnen1;mainsSkr200-285; in oneof thetownsenroute. are direct, change otherwise of theservices Hunnebostrand andKungshamn. A couple three Munkedal, hours), viaUddevalla, regularly fromGöteborg to Smögen (around the airygarden. stir-fries), orbarbecuesin tapas andevening ple lunchtime snacks( baked beans.There are alsoquickandsim- over bacon,tomatoand sausage, theegg, English breakfast willsinghallelujahs here bryggan. bars andfish restaurants alongSmögen- views. sea Scandinavian-style light rooms,manywith fully forguests)beautifulontheinside,with its hideousprostheticextension is(thank- radical surgery justafter its100thbirthday: forhire.canoes There’sguest use. asmallplayground,and crowds, andwithanoldwaterside for sauna budget choice –500mfromtheboardwalk thisisanexcellent former spabathinghouse, and there’s afineviewof theharbour. flavoured isdelicious– serole, withsaffron, head upstairs totherestaurant. Thefishcas- dinnerinclassybutcosysurrounds, seafood mealsandyummycakes.light Foraquality Skärets hasa ground-floor is named after her). And if it’s good enough is named after her).And ifit’sgoodenough mer holidays at Fjällbacka (themainsquare spenthersum- IngridBergman Film star % FJÄLLBACKA hrwinter) mer, shorter from Skr39,mainsSkr45-80; views. sea buildings. Afew roomshave balconieswith commodation scattered over three different which hastwo-tosix-bed hostel-style ac- neartheharbour, tions isthis‘guesthouse’ [email protected]; Makrillgatan; dmSkr200-250; [email protected]; Makrillgatan; season s/dSkr1220/1550; havsbad.se; Hotellgatan26;low-seasonSkr1045/1310,high- person Skr300) Bus 860and861(SmögenExpressen) run Makrillvikens Vandrarhem Makrillvikens Skärets Krog&Konditori Skärets There are plentyof appetisingcafés,grill- Bryggens Gästhem Coffee Room Hotel SmögensHavsbad Hotel 0525 Anotherof Smögen’s cheaper op-

( % Anyonepiningforan

308 28;Sillgatan10;breakfast ( ps % h

( panini, 703 91; Madenvägen 2; per 2;per 703 91;Madenvägen www.lonelyplanet.com % Near the Fiskhall, NeartheFiskhall,

( 8am-at least10pmsum- %

) ( konditori 668 450;www.smogens Thishotel had % 323 17;skaret@swip h pasta salads, salads, pasta 315 65;makrillvik weekends from weekends p serving serving ) In the Inthe faris 2150, rest ofyrSkr1125/1450/1990) Jun-Augs/d/ste fromSkr1225/1550/ Galärbacken; lbacka.se; from theharbour. www.lonelyplanet.com Skr100/50; and therollingsea. cliffs steep oured squashedbetween houses is utterly charming, col- withitsbrightly of Sweden).Despite thecrowds,Fjällbacka forus(andhalf for Ingrid,it’sgoodenough trips mid-August, there are 1½-hour path.FromJulyto along theKungsklyftan orket shops,orwanderingupthecliff about, eatingicecream, browsingthetrin- opens inthesummer. also arestaurant forfinedining. whichdo youchoose roomtobook?There’s each tells itsownstory.Thequestionis,how vourite portsandexplorers (andgirls!),and souvenirs. He namedeach roomafter hisfa- whodecoratedship’s captain itwithexotic in 23rooms’.Itwasoriginallyownedbya Stora Hotellet offers atrip‘aroundtheworld individualistic hotels theincredible ever, Bergmanstorg; views. sunny terrace, lounges andsuperharbour for rent upstairs, andasuite withitsown Ithasprettyand brasserie. doublerooms excellent place,Oscars II is acosycafé,bar Skr1495/1950; restaurant Bergmanstorg 2;low/highseasondSkr850/995, ste Stora Hotellet A very helpful The mainattractionisjustpottering Oscars II Skr120/70/55/330; adult/13-17yr/5-12yr/family ÅbySäteri; ark.se; Aug, 10am-4pmor5pmrest ofyr) NordensArk Snow leopards,wolves andlynxprowl NORDENS ARK admission istwohoursbefore closing. of theyear(includedinentryprice).Last therestin peakseasonandonweekends Guided toursoftheparkare availabledaily ing programmesforendangered species. similar climate toSweden’s,andhasbreed- animals andplantsfromcountrieswitha area’s bigfamilyattractions. Itshowsoff ofSmögenandonethe 12km northeast

(adult/child Skr150/75; ( % h 321 25; [email protected]; adult/child 321 25;[email protected];

noon &3pm) ( h %

9.30am-7.30pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug) ( 322 10; [email protected]; Ingrid 322 10;[email protected]; % ( % tourist office tourist h h 0523-795 90;www.nordens 310 03;www.storahotellet-fjal 10am-7pm mid-Jun–mid- andtwo-hour h until midnight) 7pm Thu) Oneof themost

( a safaripark % departing 321 20; Ingrid 321 20;Ingrid island boat Another seal sa-

.se; Museigatan 1;admissionfree; .se; Museigatan centre. the E6motorway,ratherthanin the town on off andpickupfromthebusstation drop six hours) uptosixtimesdaily.Buses 10am-4pm Tue-Fri) Kungstorget4; www.uddevallaforum.se; 82 18;www.swebusexpress.se) mid-Aug) 00; [email protected]; dmSkr165; backa. viaHamburgsundStrömstad andFjäll- and free forguestsnearby. sauna andthere’slook outtosea, acafé,laundry Fourplainbunk-beddedby acauseway. huts off theharbouristhissimplehostel, reached (Skr110, onehour). (Skr120,1¼hours)Strömstad andGöteborg or bylocalbus. the jettyacrossriver fromthemuseum, reached byboat(Skr20)sixtimesdailyfrom down thiswaytoo. Thearea canbestbe centre. There are recreation areas andacafé at theoldspaof Gustafsberg, 4kmfromthe isinawonderfulwatersidehouse, location tourists pile acrosstotake advantage of Svinesund Bridges. Insummer Norwegian wegian borderand theoldandbrand-new totheNor-harbour andspa town,close resort, isasparky seaside fishing Strömstad % Strömstad son tolinger long.The modern andindustrialthere’s littlerea- isfairly is niceforaswim,butUddevalla andtheoldspaarea seum, atGustafsberg connections. It’sworthpoppingintothemu- whilewaitingfortransport huslän’s capital, You mayfindyourself in Bo- Uddevalla, % Uddevalla 10am-4pm Fri-Sun May-Aug, closedMonSep-Apr) May-Aug, 10am-4pm Fri-Sun 55; perpersonSkr200) an artgalleryandrestaurant. industries.There’s also and fish-preserving plays ontraditionalstone,boat-building from theStoneAge onwards,andhasdis- tellsthe busstation, historyof thearea Badholmens Vandrarhem Bohusläns Museum Bus 875 runs between GöteborgBus 875runsbetween and Regional buses andtrainsrundailyto Regional buses STF Vandrarhem Gustafsberg/Uddevalla STF Vandrarhem 0526 /pop11,373 0522 /pop50,068 SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••Bohuslän This hostel, based in an old bathing inanoldbathing Thishostel, based canhelpwithinformation. Onateenylittleislandjust

Swebus Express ( % runstoOslo (Skr308, tourist office tourist 65 00;www.bohusmus

h ( % 10am-8pm Mon-Thu, h 321 50,0703-2879 10am-6pm Mon, 10am-6pm Mon,

h (

% ( % mid-Jun–

( 0200-21 , near % 997 20; 997 20;

221

152 152 SOUTHWEST SWEDEN SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST SWEDEN Skr20/free; [email protected]; SödraHamngatan26;adult/child tings largest andmostmagnificent displays onlocalthemes.Oneof Sweden’s the tourist office or bus station forinforma- the tourist office orbus station ing approximately 40 600. Acrosstheroad isahuge site contain- datedthe site toaround AD400to hasbeen stern stonesreaching over 3minheight; are withthestem and 49stonesintotal, perience thanAlesStenar (see p180 ). There which makes it amuch more personal ex- flowers, generally free fromothervisitors, of Itrests Strömstad. inafieldfullof wild- In town, SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES in Swedenandpopularforcycling. run totheKoster islands,themostwesterly sandy beaches den’s largest andsomefine shipsettings, remains inthearea, includingoneof Swe- larly lively airtothetown’sbars. Sweden’s cheaper prices,lendingaparticu- 222 at the bours onthemainsquare. Checkyouremail Jun-Aug, shorter hrSep-May) Jun-Aug, shorter tourist.se; Torget; tourist.se; The busy There Iron Age are fantastic several chariots, crosstheroadto the These images,including rangefromsimplecupmarkstosomeofSweden’smostfamousrock-art 20yr Skr50/free; splendid 22m where you’llfindships,animals,humansandtinyfootsteps scattered throughthewoods. The yourrockyodysseyat on theUnescoWorldHeritageList.Start the bestBohuslänsites. in theregion), containsthoughtfulinterpretations anddetailedmapsshowingyouhowtofind and free toview.Anexcellentbook, record of religiousold artistic beliefs, rites andeveryday are living. intheopen Allthecarvings Bohuslän’s Bronze Age rock carvings A BEGINNER’SGUIDETOROCKCARVINGS stop here. Tanumshede awaystill. trainstationisfurther get istoTanumshede, regional 2.5kmnorth: busesontheGöteborg–Uddevalla–Strömstad route the carvings. English tour handheld computer prices,butit’smuchbetter guidesforhire tocatchthe atextortionate SOUTHWESTSWEDEN••Bohuslän

(admission free; If you’re bewildered bythelong-armedmen,bluewhales,sexualimageryandgoat-drawn The You’ll need your own transport togetVitlycke. thenearest youcanYou’ll needyourowntransport Bypublictransport, public library Lovers, h Tanum plain Strömstads Museum tourist office tourist 11am-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pmSat) 11am-4pm Mon-Fri, showingasacred marriage. at Capri andSeläter. atCapri Boattrips h

(included inmuseumadmission; h Vitlycke Rock 9am-8pm Mon-Sat,10am-7pmSun h

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forms a huge canvas for 500 carvings of‘love, powerandmagic’. formsahugecanvasfor500carvings ( % stone shipset- 102 75;strom , whichhasadetermined goatexplainingthem.There are The RockCarving Tour . Ask at (hällristningar) . has h 3pm)

( % , whenaknowledgeablehumanbeingexplains s/d Skr180/320/400; back. Itfills upearly,sobook ahead. some, and there’s apeacefulgarden outthe forallguestsandthen kitchen isbigenough area withwicker chairs andlounges, the pale décor,thelanding hasacomfyseating hotel and thankstoitsdriftingwhite curtains exceptional STF hostel. Itfeels like aboutique sound like aDisneyvillain,butit’sactuallyan 3pm Mon-Fri Jun-Aug) 3pm Mon-Fri tomb weird figures. Nearby,there are sual 17th-centuryreredos with24sculptured also apainted woodenceilingandanunu- andhasa10th-centurynave.stad There’s the tourist office fortimesandprices. the touristoffice path fromthenorthof town. site ). Alternatively, there’s alovely walking orhiretion onbuses, abicycle(see oppo- Crusellska Hemmet Crusellska SLEEPING &EATING better forcycling. has goodbeaches. two hours insummer. lands (www.kosteroarna.com) every roughly northharbourtotheKosterStrömstad’s is- 0525-209 50; www.vitlyckemuseum.se; adult/under0525-209 50;www.vitlyckemuseum.se; are everywhere, aphenomenal3000-year- Boat trips The Romanesquestone In summerthere are also (c3000BC). bell tower (Skr50,fromtouristoffices/museums

Vitlycke (adult/child Skr110/60return) h andamid-Neolithic isabout6kmeastof Ström-

( % Mar-Nov; Mar-Nov; South Koster , withintheTanum area, 101 93;NorraKyrkogatan12;dm/ North Koster North www.lonelyplanet.com p Skee Kyrka Skee Iron Age graves Iron Age seal safaris ) Crusellska may may Crusellska isflatter and is hilly and ishillyand run from runfrom

( h passage passage ; ask at ; askat 8am- , a , a hr inwinter) Skr130/160, 2-bedcabinsfromSkr300/450; camping.se; low/highseasonsites Uddevallavägen; room. if you’re happytoshare acorridorbath- cheaper alternatives (aroundSkr100less) have avaguelynauticaltheme. There are inanoldwoodenbuilding, Rooms, based and personal placeinthecentre of town. lunch Skr72,mainsSkr115-200; eat outsideinthesummer. withoneveggie option,andyoucan based, tourist office. Dishes are fish- andmeat- along thelittleharbourlanebehind ocean-gazing, thiscosyrestaurant istucked boats. The (from Skr40),alongwithfishfresh the off fjord in Norway (see inNorway(see fjord p329 ). trains dailyto/fromGöteborg (Skr140). Bohuståg trainsystem, witharoundseven isthenorthern terminusStrömstad of the to Göteborg (Skr200)uptofive timesdaily. runs times dailyandStrömstadsexpressen ice fromGöteborg toOslo callshere upto six Bergsgatan 15;s/dSkr790/990) www.lonelyplanet.com Oslovägen 42) press near thesouthernharbour. The thetrainstation andtrainsbothuse Buses THERE&AROUND GETTING ( burgers andbaked potatoes. vels. There’s menuof alsoalighter salads, areand seafood turnedintoculinarymar- maculate àlacarte menu,where fresh meat restaurant.bright Ithasalimited butim- lureand happylaughter youintothisbusy, h 4;lunchSkr119,mainsSkr190-260; den.net; ÖstraKlevgatan Car hireCar isavailable from is central,and cabins forrent. of town,thecampsite alsohas36shady In alarge, parkatthesouthernedge pleasant 70; Oslovägen 53;per1/5daysSkr100/350; couple of minutes’ walkaway. closed Sunrest ofyr) % Strömstad Camping Hotell Just offthemainsquare, For a taxi, call For ataxi, Ferries to Sande runfromStrömstad Restaurang Bryggan Restaurang Restaurang Trädgården Restaurang lunch Mon-Fri, dinnerWed-Sat) lunch Mon-Fri, 102 40;Torget)

( %

Krabban 0200-21 8218;www.swebusexpress.se) Situated in awonderfulplacefor , bicyclesfrom ICA supermarket

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h h ( Swebus Ex- % ( % May-Aug, May-Aug, May-Sep)

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per day/week) Edsvägen4;2-personcanoesSkr180/900 odal.com; Gamla 11am-4pm Jun&Sep) 24; adult/under15yrSkr30/free; [email protected]; Dalslands Center) ous the andwatch negotiating sit withabeer boats imaginativecanal istoldthrough displays; mid-August. overcanoes here agruelling55kmcourse in ple: visittheTardis-like ofcrashing noise water. Pleasures are sim- ing spot,filledwithamblingvisitors andthe with anyenquiries. .kanotmaraton.se) side May toAugust,bookingsare necessary. getcan nevertheless warminsummer. Out- canal. Itsattic-like rooms are but pleasant This dinky1st-floor hostel overlooks the aboveroad bridge crosses themboth. overries theDalslandCanal theriver, anda at tiny Håverud, where a32m An intriguingtripletransportpile-upoccurs % Håverud as Ed):contact Norway fromsleepy thewildernessallwayto dle through from thetouristtrail.Youcanactuallypad- the placetogoifyouwantget wellaway long lakes, forests andsilenttowns,is Northern Dalsland isalandscapeof long, DALSLAND ance race,the to relax waterways: anewendur- onthese a route wants 250kmlong.Noteveryone providing VänernandStoraLe, between oflong, butitlinksaseries narrowlakes at Håverud. isonly10km Thecanalitself and gets especiallyinteresting (wepromise) The scenic and peaceful,butwithmore thingstosee. camping. forwildernesssupply equipmentneeded mains Skr150-200; rud costsadult/under12years Skr30/20. booked atthetouristoffice; atriptoUppe- run fromJulytomid-August, andcanbe The area aroundtheaqueductisasmash- Håfveruds Rökeri Håfveruds There’s ahelpful The eastern halfof Dalslandisalsowatery STF hostel 0530 lock boat tours SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••Dalsland ; orhoponavessel forvari- yourself for details. Thecompanycan fordetails.

Dalsland Canal ( % along the canal. These mainly alongthecanal.These , sees competitors racingtheir , sees h 302 75; Museivägen 3;dmSkr150; 302 75;Museivägen Dalsland Kanot Maraton Dalsland Kanot where the historyof the daily summer, weekends rest ofyr) daily summer, weekends Canodal

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SOUTHWEST SWEDEN SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST SWEDEN is agoodplaceforcoffee andsnacks. Napoleon’s nieceChristineoncelived there) biblical sculptures. 00; adult/7-14yrSkr140/60; is abeautiful17th-centurywooden trees. Its hiddenamongsttheshrubsand stallations, in- grounds isworthvisitingforitseerie exhibitions. Thesmallsculpture parkinthe and Åmålsilverware aswelltemporary of localart,furniture, ceramics,ironware May-Sep) ( Konsthall rud About 3kmsouthof theaqueductis Around Håverud tessen forself-caterers. duringtheday,andthere’s adelica- served chilled-out Sandwiches locksidetables. are still hangingfromtheceiling,which alsohas inanoldpapermillwiththechainsbased restaurant,This isagoodfish andseafood 224 sion free; s/dSkr895/1295) Skållerud. from Mellerud viaUpperud, Håverud and Local bus720runs acircularroute to/ here three timesdailyineitherdirection. Göteborg between buses andKarlstad stop Karlstad trainline,andSwebusExpress fered here too. Naturum. Qualityaccommodation isof- andasmall rant andcafé,handicraftstalls English garden,swimmingspots, restau- andgrounds,complete with manor house past thevillage of DalsLånged, isa lovely Jun) Aug, 11am-4pmWed-Sunmid-Aug–Dec &mid-Mar–mid- adult/under 12yrSkr40/free; Håverud ona and ahaunted gives you45minutes atthecarvings. rock carvings of allareBest its impressive BronzeAge woodland walksandashallow bathingplace. 8km northof Håverud near Tisselskog, has small signs, andhandfootmarks.There’s a slabs feature animals,boats,labyrinths, sun % Another few kilometres southat Atmospheric For transport details, see see For transportdetails, below . Mellerud isonthemainGöteborg to Baldersnäs Herrgård , where you’llfindthe . There’s acompactpermanentdisplay SOUTHWESTSWEDEN••Dalsland 0530-300 14; museum , with well-preserved paintingsand , withwell-preserved

( % Café Bonaparte Café

(hällristningar): 0530-300 98;www.dalslandsmuseum.se;

h boat trip (admission bydonation; café Högsbyn Nature Reserve Högsbyn Nature 8am-6pm Mon-Sat,9am-6pmSun . Youcanget here from , 10kmfurthernorth h h

( ( % % (so-called because (so-calledbecause 1pm Jul–mid-Aug) 11am-6pm mid-Jun–mid- Dalslands Museum & Dalslands Museum 0530-310 97,0530-304 0531-412 13;admis- 50overgrown h Skållerud Jun-Aug) , about church Uppe- that ,

Kungsgatan 9;s/dSkr845/1190,discountedtoSkr845/890) .se; Gerdinsgatan 7;dmSkr140; .se; Gerdinsgatan Jun–mid-Aug, phoneforhrrest ofyr) h hire. has niceviewsover thelake andbikes for equipped hostel justnorthof thetowncentre film the 1999release of theSwedish- language Vänern.Itbecameinfamousafter on Lake Åmål, themaintownin Dalsland,issituated % Åmål or Karlstad (Skr70,one hour)stopin Åmål bythelake.of outdoorseating There’s arestaurant, baranddisco,pluslots vourite thankstoitsproximity tothemarina. far fromthetouristoffice, isa boaties fa- and bikes are andboats available forrental. of thecentre. There’s beach, asmall sandy ground ontheshore of Vänern,south Lake town, serving mainly Swedish specialities. town, serving plusoneof thebestrestaurants ful staff, in roomsandhelp- high-ceilinged, comfortable andelegant,the Stadshotell has Central Skr70, mainsSkr90-170) sites fromSkr145,cabinsSkr345) & Sunmid-May–mid-Jun) adult/child Skr20/free; Åmåls Hembygdsmuseet century buildingsandworthaquicklook. in 1669),isastately collectionof 18th- around thechurch ing waterways andforests. TheOldTown, the real attractionsare outinthesurround- but there’s noreason – foranextended stay has allservices. harbour, andthemainstreet Kungsgatan to funeralconfectionery. with three floors of rangingfromtoys stuff is aparticularlyinteresting localmuseum drowns invisitors. international artistsplayandthetown weekend inJuly,whenSwedishand second gest is event the English-speakingworld.Thetown’sbig- boring title andwasgivenfilmed inTrollhättan thevery Stadshotellet SJ trainsto Göteborg (Skr156, 1¾hours) Hamncompagniet Örnäs Camping There are afew diversions inthetown, STF Vandrarhem Åmål STF Vandrarhem The 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pmSat,11am-6pmSunmid- 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 0532 /pop12,823 Fucking Åmål, tourist office tourist Show MeLove

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Thisflashcomplex,not ( 616 10; [email protected]; 616 10;[email protected]; , near the tourist office, , nearthetouristoffice, % Gamla Kyrkan Gamla 1-6pm mid-Jun–Aug, 1-6pmSat 170 97;[email protected];

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( % 100 10; Hamngatan 3; lunch 100 10;Hamngatan3;lunch ( ( % h % www.lonelyplanet.com 170 98;www.amal.se; 102 05;lokrantz@home Apr-Nov) for its release to to foritsrelease 158 20;Hamngatan7; isneartheguest , heldover the Thisisalarge (completed Thiswell-

8am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun)8am-5pm Mon-Fri .se; 750, discountedtoSkr550/650) before turningup. islimited, sophone rooms. Reception service Skräcklen park,offers andhomey sixbright run place,onaquiet residential street near Skr240/175; 6.30pmMon&ThuJulAug) Three-hour royal huntinggroundforover 100years. wild elk,andthisarea afavourite hasbeen forest also make great hidingplacesfor ravinesexploring. Thedeep andpri meval trails walking eaus 8kmeastof town.There are 50kmof Reserve the paradise’, along withlocalexhibits. markable southwestAfricanbirdcollection try’s oldestprovincial andhasare- museum along Edsgatan. and banksotherfacilitiesare mostly ist office. bookticketsthe trainstation: atthetour- kilometre southwestof thetowncentre. areday. Thetrainandbusstations abouta route andcallthreefollow thesame timesa up tosixtimesdaily.SwebusExpress buses www.lonelyplanet.com Hotell 46:an Hotell SLEEPING &EATING Sun yr-round,plusnoon-4pmWedJun-Aug) adult/under 17yrSkr20/free; lar bathingspots. andsomevery popu- playgrounds, waffles families mayenjoySkräcklenpark,with side townare itsmainattractions,although huntinggroundsout- nature reserve/royal whytoday.Thescenic but it’shardtosee Vänern, wasonceknownas‘LittleParis’, Vänersborg, atthesouthern outletof Lake % Vänersborg VÄSTERGÖTLAND elk. Insummerbus665headsout here. wishtoknowaboutthe thing youcouldever isatHunnebergseum, and tells you every- 11am-4pm Tue-Sun Sep-Apr) 10am-8pmTue-ThuFri-Mon, Jul&Aug,10am-6pm May-Jun, www.algensberg.com; adult/childSkr60/30; Described byLinnaeusasan‘earthly Vänersborgs Museum Vänersborgs Kungajaktmuseet ÄlgensBerg The h 0521 /pop37,105 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pmSat&SunJulAug, 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, covers plat twodramatic,craggy tourist office tourist

( % here that are worth certainly elk-spotting safaris elk-spotting Hunneberg & Hanneberg Nature Nature &Hanneberg Hunneberg /fax 711561;Kyrkogatan46;s/dSkr595/

( % is at the train station, isatthetrainstation, , theroyalhuntingmu-

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leave from % h (adult/5-16yr 10am-6pm 10am-6pm 27 7991; borg. With around Skr300forthetripfromVäners- pi Vargön; s/d/steSkr1170/1170/1650; -herrgard.parkinn.se; fyrstadsflyget.se) Trollhättan, continuing to Göteborg.Trollhättan, Express bus600runsacoupleof timesto Vänersborg hourly between andTrollhättan. half- Local bus61,62and65runroughly stopatthetrainstation. services distance itcostsabout Skr130. Trollhättan, hättan (Skr39,15 minutes) andGöteborghättan one/two hours.run every Trainsto Troll- Karlstad (Skr190,2½hours). hours) andalsonorth to viaTrollhättan, three timesdailytoGöteborg (Skr95,1½ noon-11pmSat,noon-9pmSun) 11pm Fri, Bergagårdsvägen 9B,Vargön; sitesSkr70,dmSkr180; Trollhättan-Vänersborgs THERE&AWAYGETTING in summer. andhasoutdoorseats priced pizzaandpasta, ian andSwedish food,includingreasonably amixture ofthe mainstreet. Ital- Itserves this isoneof anumberof busyeateries on .se) square toVägporten, thenwalk500m. rent. Take thefrequent bus62fromthetown mitted inthegrounds,andthere are bikes for isper-well-equipped SVIFhostel. Camping neberg (7kmeastof thecentre), thisisalarge, of nearthecliffs Hun- a bigoldmanorhouse press three timesdailyinVänersborg. thatstops service Lidköping–Stockholm the airport: TaxisStockholm. are theonlywaytoaccess Monday toFriday(oneSunday)to/from towns. There are direct around seven flights the bestinregion. a gastronomictreat, therestaurant isoneof Ifyoufeel likeages: themfordetails. contact hotel frequently hasspecial rates andpack- floored suites are particularlyspecial.The hugely elegant,andthenewlyrenovated oak- ingorgeousIt’s set grounds,theroomsare luxurious mansion,outtowardsHunneberg. mains fromSkr70; SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••Västergötland hasaGöteborg–Trollhättan–Vänersborg– Hunnebergs Vandrarhem &Kursgård Vandrarhem Hunnebergs Säfflebussen runfromTorgetLocal buses andlong- SJ (Skr39,20minutes) trainstoUddevalla Ronnums Herrgård Ristorante Italia Ristorante

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( 11.30am-10pm Mon-Thu, 11.30am- % 0771-15 1515;www.safflebussen

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6pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-4pmTue-Sun rest ofyr) .innovatum.se; adult/7-19yr/familySkr60/40/130; the irritating Saabadvertisements. the irritating interesting contain informationinbetween (40-minutes’ playingtime),which handsets byelectronic themuseum guided through involving crash-test-dummy elks.You’re There are alsovideosshowingsafety tests ning onbiofuel thatknowifyou’re drunk!). designsrun- to thefuturistic(experimental 1947prototype) from thefirst (asensational Saabcarmodels contains ing white museum fanatics andfansof Swedish design.Theshin- Skr10/free; Jun &mid-Aug–Sep) 6pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-4pmSat&Sunmid-Apr–mid- (cable car; Saab Bilmuseum SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES the cient locksystems. Here you’llfindcafésand watersidepleasant area of parkland andan- the touristofficefordetails). three 30-minute tours dailyinsummer(ask tricity intheearly20thcentury.There are which supplied much of thecountry’selec- ings, thepotent-looking Sweden’s mostunusualindustrialbuild- down totheriver, where you’llfindoneof the farsideof thecanal,followstairs area.to thehydroelectricity Onceyou’re on night-time night-time morean even remarkable waitforthe sight, thunders For 300,000L persecond through. timesthesluice gatesat set are openedand is diverted but the powerstations, through ics funlike thiswhenwewere kids? and whirlpoolmachines. Whywasn’tphys- out of thewayandrevel inthegyroscopes pushthelittleblighterslet thatputyouoff: ments aimedmainlyatchildren. Butdon’t sciencecentretastic withinteractive experi- isafan- next doortotheSaabBilmuseum, & Aug) Jul &Aug) mid-Jun–mid-Aug, phoneforwinterhr) jövägen 10;adult/7-17yrSkr60/30; waterfall cascades whenthe tion, witnessspectacular overthe canalandcontains 50modelships. Apr, May &Sep) Apr, May Innovatum Kunskapens Hus Kunskapens Innovatum Take awandersouthwestto In fourminutes, the Northeast neartheHojum powersta- Kanalmuseet . isunleashed.Normallythewater %

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rent bikes here, andbreakfast isavailable. Youcanabout 200mfromthetrainstation. STF hostel, inapretty oldyellowvilla,is tours Thu Jul–mid-Aug) to Skr890/890; -hotels.com; Storgatan47;s/dfromSkr1430/1630,discounted pi gatan 37;s/dSkr795/895,discountedtoSkr590/690; 100) there’senough, an at thetouristofficefortimes. www.lonelyplanet.com 11 –itrunsmost of theway. intoÅkerssjövägen,right or take town bus thenturn walk southalongDrottninggatan, ortheDrottningtorgetstation busstation, fromthetrainattractions inTrollhättan See p225 Toreach fortransport details. the THERE&AROUND GETTING .com; Tingvallavägen 12;dmSkr135; Gula Villan SLEEPING &EATING English-language movies. but it’sworthchecking theprogrammefor most filmsshown are home-grown Swedish, skapens Hus skapens for guestuse. andthere’sfortable, andsolarium asauna town. Accommodationisbasicbutcom- streeton apedestrianised intheheartof ing area insummer. location,withalargefantastic canalsideseat- It’sina andbakedquiche, salads potatoes. bagels, in townisthistrendy bistroserving include arestaurant andnightclub. town hallbythecanal.Itsqualityfacilities to theupmarket Swania,situated intheold per daySkr75/40/140) ner mainsSkr170-200) weather. spot, andtheoutdoorarea ispopularingood expect. Thebarhere isabustlingafter-work haveable thantheswishdécormight you to heartysteaks, andpricesare more reason- andmushrooms ontoast) (stirfries, salads café hasagoodmenuoffering meals light Hotell Bele Hotell There are alsotwo-tothree-hour If you can stay awakeIf youcanstay untilitgets dark You canrent bikes from Scandic Hotel Swania Scandic Hotel Grand Café Strandgatan Oneof thebest–andbusiest –places

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( ( % % ( 129 60;trollhattansvandrarhem@telia % . 890 09;lightmealsSkr80-120,din- Part of theSwania, this 125 30;www.hotellbele.se; Kungs- 837 17;Strandgatan;mainsSkr55- open-air cinema ) Formore luxury,head

( % insummer;enquire 890 00;swania@scandic p Innovatum Kun- Innovatum ) Thecheery

( h canal 11pm 18yr Skr40/20; h library Slott castlefix,getFor afairytale yourselfto LÄCKÖ SLOTT Rörstrand Fabriksbod SIGHTS INTOWN around houses most of thetown,but 17th-century in 1960).Aprevious fire in1849destroyed (actually areplica –theoriginalburntdown dominated bythe outof lie somedistance town. tions (like theenchanting castle,LäcköSlott) cheery. manyof However, itsfinestattrac- and Vänern,isbright Lidköping, onLake % Lidköping most impressive beingthe acquired itin1615. Count Magnus GabrieldelaGardieafter he in 1298,butitwasimproved enormouslyby The first castleonthesite wasconstructed towers, paintingsandornate plasterwork. Swedish baroquearchitecture, withcupolas, an extraordinaryexampleof 17th-century 23km northof Lidköpingnear Vänern.It’s boat. The mostcuriousitem isa3m-longglass third-largest lake inEuropeat5650sqkm). meteorite anddisplaysaboutVänern(the has geological exhibits,includinganancient also asmall There’sthe NobelbanquetsinStockholm! buycopiesofeven at theporcelainused you maysnapupsomebargains; youcan so andend-of-lines, seconds shop selling in operation)Europe. There’s avast porcelainfactory(still is thesecond-oldest Years War. nine huge paintingsdepicting theThirty 13 angels hanging fromtheceilingand rest ofyr) Sat, noon-6pmSunmid-Jun–mid-Aug, noon-5pmMon-Fri Bangatan3; kulle.se; creations. thing from18th-centuryfaïencetomodern Internet access. SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••Västergötland The The mainsquare, Torg, NyaStadens is The castlenowhas 240rooms,withthe Vänermuseet 0510 /pop37,241 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pmSat,noon-4pmSun) 10am-6pm Mon-Fri,

( % ( is at the train station, andthe isatthetrainstation, % tourist office tourist 103 20;www.lackoslott.se; 77 0015;NyaStadensTorg5) h museum 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-5pmSat&Sun) 10am-5pm Tue-Fri,

( % Limtorget h old courthouse 77 0065;Framnäsvägen2;adult/7-

(Skr20) 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, ( ( % % stillstand. 200 20;www.lackokinne 823 46;Fiskaregatan4; containing every- containing King’s Hall King’s and its tower anditstower h hasfree May-Sep) , with public Läckö 227

SOUTHWEST SWEDEN SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST SWEDEN May-Sep) kajakfritid.se; kajakfritid.se; Skr80; h audio guideisavailable. lier woodenstructure. AnEnglish-language steepled towermaywellbethatof anear- ofcentury, butthebase the unusualthree- theirnamesintotherockshere. carved parkingcostsSkr30. to thecastle. Car timesadayfromLidköping runs fourtoseven tourist office. (tickets aroundSkr320);enquire atLidköping inJuly timesaweek in thecourtyardseveral exploring thelake. (perhalfdayfromSkr130)for 180) orcanoes you canhire swan-shapedboats(perhour snacks anda restaurant, afewwhich contain shopsandthecastle ble aboutinthecourtyardsandlowerfloors, you’re3.30pm daily.Otherwise free tobim- interesting rooms;there’s anEnglish tourat ing 45minutes give youaccesstothemost The ‘flowering mountain’ The ‘floweringmountain’ KINNEKULLE but very infrequently. near thechurch. Bus106runstoHusaby, Well Olof’s royaldunkingtookplace at by theEnglishmissionarySigfridin1008. tian king,wasconverted here andbaptised Olof Skötkonung,thecountry’sfirst Chris- inextricably linked toSweden’shistory. King (around15kmeastof Husaby Lidköping)is HUSABY KYRKA &STSIGFRID’SWELL 228 Hällekis, withaccesstothe trail. Local trains runtoKällby, Råbäckand Ask atthetouristoffice fora map(Skr20). remainders of theoldlimestone workings. vandringsled could explore itonthe45km-long are numerousshort nature trails,oryou diverse initsgeology andplant life. There 18km northeastof Lidköping,isunusually & 6-9pmmid-Jun–mid-Aug) 32 60;Pilgrimsgården; In thecastlegrounds,there’s a Guided tours There’s asmall, seasonal The church actuallydates fromthe12th From mid-Junetomid-August, bus132 areClassical musicandoperaevents held on the hr 11am-5pm May-Aug, 11am-2pmSep) on thehr11am-5pmMay-Aug, SOUTHWESTSWEDEN••Västergötland , near h . Asuccessionof Swedishkingshave 11am-6.30pm May-Aug) Husaby Kyrka h (walkingtrail),which runs past Fataburen noon-5.30pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug) rental kiosk rental

(adult/7-15yr/family Skr70/20/160; h

. noon-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug)

(lunch Skr110; ( h

( % Kinnekulle 8am-4pm Apr, 8am-8pm 8am-4pm Apr,8am-8pm serving cheaper serving tourist office tourist 24 9813;bengtsson@ h Kinnekulle Kinnekulle St Sigfrid’s St Sigfrid’s café (306m), noon-3pm where where

(

last- % (lunch (lunch 34 mains Skr150-200) gatan hassomeinvitingold cafés. gatan cheap pizzeriasandgrillbars, whileGrev- streets –Källaregatan isfertile groundfor TorgGamla Stadens andthesurrounding tations. andothertemp- Skr40, pluspastries,waffles foraround andciabatta sandwiches serves out.It is acute oldplacewellworthseeking Skr590/790; StadensTorg1;s/dSkr995/1290,discountedto Gamla 1; Skr690/890, discountedtoSkr590/790) s Läckögatan; sitesSkr155-200,2-personcabinsSkr395-465; Lidköping STF Vandrarhem SLEEPING &EATING tween Trollhättan, Lidköpingand Skara. Trollhättan, tween (fourSaturdayandSunday)be- weekdays dens Torg. hourlyon Bus5runsroughly Town andregional stoponNyaSta- buses THERE&AROUND GETTING floor bedrooms had been newlyrenovated.floor bedroomshadbeen Atthetimeof writing,allof the3rd- TVs. floored withpristinemoderndécorandbig club andsauna/spa. Roomsare parquet- with amenitiesincludingrestaurant, night- boules, sauna, playground,andboathire.boules, sauna, shop, restaurant,need: laundry,minigolf, wild. There’s youcouldpossibly everything beside theroadtoLäckö,where kidscanrun camping ground,1.5kmnorthwestof town couscous. ing mushroomrisottoorlambrackswith ofa goodselection interesting meals,includ- square, isa fashionable restaurant-bar with are very helpful. areold town.Standards andthestaff high, thishostelstation, isinapretty spotinthe Just acoupleof minutes’ walkfromthetrain .se) StadensTorg4;dm/dSkr140/280) Gamla vandrarhem.com; hatstand. the oddquirkytouch like theartsyfoyer rooms have ceilings,andthere’s goodhigh make youfeel very welcome. Comfortable ception peopleatthisfamily-runhotel also h There are otheroptionsaround several Säfflebussen Krono Camping Café OBar Café Café Limtorget Café Hotel Läckö Hotel Hotel Stadt Hotel runs three times daily to Stockholm (via (via runsthree timesdailytoStockholm ) Thisisahuge, family-oriented lakeside closed Sun) p

( % ) With its rose-filled garden, this Withitsrose-filled garden,this

Stadt isthebesthotel Stadt intown

This sleek place, on the main place,onthemain Thissleek ( % ( ( % % 270 27; Nya Stadens Torg 4; lunch Skr69, 270 27;NyaStadensTorg4;lunchSkr69,

( ( % % 230 00; Gamla StadensTorg5;s/d 230 00;Gamla 0771-15 15 15; www.safflebussen 220 85;[email protected]; 268 04;www.kronocamping.com; 251 45; Mjölnagården, Limtorget Limtorget 251 45;Mjölnagården,

( www.lonelyplanet.com % 664 30;info@lidkopings Thesmileyre-

Aug) the lake. thefort’smainentranceand between house are original:there’s a diately! Most of the30-oddbuildingsinside it wasfinished,andmothballed imme- to complete; itwasoutof date before even and issohuge thatittookfrom1820to1909 fortress hasacircumference of around5km, largest constructionprojects. Thisenormous Aug, 10am-3pm Mon-Fri rest ofyr) Aug, 10am-3pmMon-Fri respectively. holm andGöteborg services Hallsberg orHerrljunga connectwithStock- 2½ hours). LänstågtrainsfromLidköpingto (via Vänersborg Skr170, andTrollhättan; Örebro; Skr300,4½hours) andGöteborg www.lonelyplanet.com road). northwest of thefortress (followthe main about2km Canal especially beside the Göta more and eating optionsintown, sleeping the nearbytowncentre), there although are (there are supermarketsand self-cater in reception, here agoodoptionistostay If youcanoverlook brusque theslightly accommodationfor most oftary theyear. the fortress’s doorstep, asmili- thisisused day. The to August,there are upto12tours every 70; adult/childSkr40/10; a bastion,Karlsborgs Fästning. intimesofcapital war,thankstoitsbeastof backwater wasonceintended tobeSweden’s east of Lidköping.Amazingly,thispeaceful Vättern c-h-e-d alongsideLake some80km Karlsborg isaquietlittletowns-t-r-e-e-e-t- % Karlsborg .se; Ankarvägen 2; .se; Ankarvägen gen 2;dm/dSkr135/300; effect effect you’llhaverats, though, tobookaspecial- want gunsmoke, cannonroarandscuttling 276 bayonets. has anextraordinarycandelabramadefrom p146 , and p330 ofsection the forfurtherdetails). the centre of thefortress. Skr80/40; Mon-Fri mid-Aug–Jun) Mon-Fri Krsog Fästning Karlsborgs The The fortress area isalwaysopen.Ifyou STF Vandrarhem Karlsborg STF Vandrarhem Karlsborg of isthestart/end thewestern 0505 /pop6905 atthetouristoffice; frommidsummer guided tour tourist office tourist h Lilla Blå tourist train Lilla Blåtourist 2pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug) h Göta Canal

(adult/7-12yr Skr80/40; is in an octagonal wooden isinanoctagonal 9am-6pm Jul–mid-Aug, 10am-4pm

( h % h wasoneof Europe’s 10am-4pm or6pmmid-May– military museum 173 50;info@karlsborgsturism Jun-Aug; anda (see boxed (see text,

( % alsozipsround

p (adult/under 12yr 446 00;Ankarvä- church ) Right on Right h

, which 1pm Jun- ( % 854 854 Storgatan 6;perhrSkr25; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri rest ofyr) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri h Tropikcenter and downstream fromthetourist office, exact departure times. Torget aboardtells andBrogatan; you the hourfromnearthecorner ofevery Stora A free roadtrainleaves Halmstad roughly a miniature village, ridesandwaterslides. turing pirates, characters, fairytale dinosaurs, town, isathemeparkforlittle-ish kidsfea- Stockholm. connecting withSJ trainstoGöteborg or h .huvudbiblioteket.se; Axel Olsonsgata1) .huvudbiblioteket.se; cess. Otherwise try cess. Otherwise there shouldbeplentyof free Internet ac- onceitopensin2006, built bytheriver: Museum For asmallcountyinstitution, SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES dotted allover theplace. thethree crownsandthree see heartsmotif awarded Halmstad its coatof arms:you’ll out mostof thebuildingsin1619. He also ish KingChristianIVafter ahuge fire wiped town. Itsstreet planwaslaidoutbytheDan- fortifiedborder asanimportant and served Blue-Flag After roastingthemselves onthe6km-long % Halmstad HALLAND stad’s livelystad’s bars andclubsatnight. town), manyholidaymakers return toHalm- archaeological dig. justdiscoveredin thefloor,asthough onan hoards andVikingswordsare incases set played withingenuity: forexample,silver Its modestarrayof localtreasures are dis- to hostsomegoodart/designexhibitions. time of writing,afuturisticnew including banksandsupermarkets. Atthe most of thefacilitiestravellers willrequire, Slott (castle).StoraTorg andStorgatan have Tylösandsvägen 1;admissionSkr150; & Aug, shorter hr May, Jun&Sep) hrMay, & Aug,shorter Another oneforfamilies, acrosstheriver A bus runs every hourortwotoSkövde, A busrunsevery The Halmstad wasactuallyDanish until1645, Halmstad Äventyrsland 9am-7pm Mon-Sat,11am-6pmSunlateJun–mid-Aug, noon-4pm Tue &Thu-Sun,to8pmWed) 035 /pop87,929 SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••Halland tourist office tourist

( % beach

16 2300;Tollsgatan;adult/7-15yrSkr40/20; ( % at (8kmeastofTylösand 12 3333; Strandgatan; adult/child

h ( % PlaygroundX isinsideHalmstads 10am-midnight) 13 2320;www.halmstad.se;

, lyingjustoutof ( % h 10 84 60; Gamla 10 8460;Gamla wasbeing

10am-8pm Jul ( library % manages . Halmstads 12 1090;

(www 229 SOUTHWEST SWEDEN SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST SWEDEN kids under 1m tall getkids under1mtall inforfree. cal birds,fishandreptiles. Atbothplaces, tropi- andshowsoff the oldcustomshouse Skr70/40; 230 Sep-May) h a trainingship fortheSwedishRoyalNavy. just outsidethecastleandbuiltin 1897, was St Nikolai Kyrka tions includethe lovely 14th-century church gate fragmentslikecentury, although thenorth walls. Thelatter were demolished inthe18th andthetown the touristofficefordetails) ask irregularly toguidedtours insummer:

(1km); Tylösand(8km) To HalmstadÄventrysland

4 1 3 2 HALMSTAD Ljungbergsgatan Magnus Stenbocks väg The museum ship The museum Christian IVbuilt Mjellby Konstgård(5km) To Airport(2km); 5-7pm Tue &Thu,11am-3pmSatJulAug) Järnvägsleden SOUTHWESTSWEDEN••Halland Norre Port Norre Hospital

Timmermansleden , and the half-timbered , andthe half-timbered

h Skepparegatan Stenvinkelsgatan Hallandsgatan ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ BroddesonsgatanὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ

AC 10am-6pm Jul,10am-4pmAug-Jun) Hvitfeldtsgatan 12

Skånegatan Lasarettsv 11 remain. attrac- Othermedieval Stridbecksliden

Bissmarksgatan ( h 28 Slottsjordsvägen GALGBERGET Gunillaparken SLOTTSJORDEN

8.30am-6pm Jun-Aug, 8.30am-3pm 8.30am-6pm Jun-Aug,8.30am-3pm Fogdegatan

Sofiavägen

Järnvägsleden Kyrkogatan Karl XI:s väg Halmstad Slott Najaden

Ridhusgatan

ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Briggensgatan Vallgatan Hallandsgården

Bergsgatan

parken Slotts- Slottsgatan Hantverksgatan 14

Brogatan Bryggaregatan 16 (admission free;

15 Klammerdammsgatan Fredriks 25 Tre Hjärtan Tre

Sodra vägen B , berthed , berthed vallsgatan Skolgatan 7

(open Aschebgatan 18 ὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆

isin Norra Infartsleden

Torg Stora Köpmansgatan 26 8 22

Dragvägen Torg Lilla Bankgatan 2 ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ 13

23 1 Storgatan Badhusgatan

Slottsbron 20 5 Hamngatan 19 17 Norre Katts

9 Österbro Skr50/free; in townfrom Skr150perperson (plusbook- canarrangeThe tourist office private rooms IN TOWN Sleeping (Woman’s Head) fountain the mainsquare Milles’ sculptural isCarl (Three Hearts) buildingonStoraTorg. In North BusStation. ish). Take theirregular bus330fromthe surrealist andcubistart(labelled inSwed- permanent Halmstad Groupexhibitionof heremodern art–themuseum includesthe from townbutworthatripifyou’re into 21

park

6 Dillbergsgatan 24

Mjellby Konstgård Mjellby Strandgatan Viktoriagatan

27 Fredsgatan 3 h

NYATORP Nissan Europa andthe Bull, Tollsgatan FURET

Kungsgatan 4

400m 0.2miles 0 0 Teater Wrangelsgatan

1-5pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar-Oct) Axel Olsonsgata

Stationsgatan 10

isdownbytheriver. Jonsonsgatan North BusStation...... Main BusStation...... Cykel &Sport...... Systembolaget...... Lilla Helfwetet...... Harrys...... Bulls Pub...... Skånska Hembageriet...... Pios Bakficka...... Pio &Co...... Pasta Huset...... Nudel Bar...... Klamedam...... Hemköp Supermarket...... Fridolfs Krog...... Scandic HotelHallandia...... Hotel Amadeus...... Halmstads Vandrarhem...... Grand HotelHalmstad...... Tropikcenter...... Tre Hjärtan...... St NikolaiKyrka...... Norr Port...... Najaden...... Halmstads Museum...... Halmstad Slott...... (see2) Town Library...... Tourist Office...... Playground X...... TRANSPORT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION

( Station % Train

Gamletullsgatan www.lonelyplanet.com 316 19;adult/under20yr Bolmensgatan and Picasso’s and Picasso’s

D Laholmsvägen is5km 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 A2 C3 B1 B3 C2 B3 B2 C2 B2 B2 B3 B3 B3 B3 B3 B3 A3 A4 C4 C4 B3 B3 C2 B4 C1 C3 B4 B3 vägen; dSkr2345,discountedtos/dSkr1295/1395) .se; Kungsvägen3;sitesSkr130-240,cabinsfrom Skr525) Grand Hotel Halmstad Grand Hotel and soon: solarium,bar,restaurantboth withsauna, ards atthefollowingtwoupmarket places, if you’re counting thepennies. are budget alternatives (aroundSkr200less) either–andthere but notstate-of-the-art, mid-marketfortably –notold-fashioned sonal andwelcomingair. Roomsare com- hotel, yetitmanages toretain avery per- spacious garden for evening lounging. spacious gardenforevening andhaveenough sofas anddesks.There’s a college accommodation,butthey’re decent ing-pins-in-the-wall lookthatcomeswith Rooms are battered, slightly withthatdraw- becomes studentdigsoutsidesummer. the large hotel chains have branches here. ing fee). It’sapopulartown,andmanyof www.lonelyplanet.com Hotel Tylösand Hotel IN TYLÖSAND Hallandia Scandic Hotel Skr640/840; 20;s/dSkr850/1050,discountedto.nu; Hvitfeldtsgatan Skr840 for three days! when prices gostratospheric: awhopping cilities. Avoid holidayssuch asmidsummer, the beach, withloadsof family-friendly fa- A huge andbustling campinggroundnear available. go one of thefew Swedishhotels where prices of Lounge Thisis nightclub. art,andLeifs penings; check outtheglamorousfoyerfull hap- options andsummerentertainment complex onthebeach, withlotsof eating Swedish popduo).It’salarge, upmarket part-owned byPer onehalfof Gessle, the beach, and/orRoxette nightclubbing (it’s This istheplacetotryifyou’re intothe 725/850; 23;2-/4-/5-/6-bedrSkr450/600/ hallonsten.se; Skepparegatan rooms decoratedinamore traditionalvein. rooms have balconies overlooking theriver.rooms havebalconiesoverlooking more modernScandinavian-styleaccommodation;some discounted toSkr1090/1320)Onthemainsquare with scandic-hotels.com; Rådhusgatan4;rm/steSkr1320/1800, to Skr790/990; hotel.nu; Stationsgatan44;s/dSkr1200/1550,discounted There’s little difference inpriceorstand- Hotel Amadeus Hotel Halmstads Vandrarhem Krono Camping up at weekends, although packages atweekends, although are h pi mid-Jun–mid-Aug) pi

( % ) At65roomsthisisn’tatiny

) Handyforthetrainstation,with 305 00;[email protected];Tylöhus- ( % ( % ( % ( 305 10;www.kronocamping % 16 6000;www.amadeus

280 8100;www.grand ( ThisSVIFhostel % 295 8600;hallandia@ 12 0500;halmstad@

220; the menu. andagoodbar spot withoutdoorseating means‘Pio’s Backpocket’. It’samore casual hind Pio&Coisthisplace,which literally wall partying until3am. whenthere’son FridayandSaturdaynights, lounge cocktail transforms intoanightclub river. This super-cool restaurant, bar and in thisgreat converted warehouse nearthe symbol, youcanhalfguesswhatawaits h freshly baked from. bunstochoose from Skr29,andof course there are lotsof bakery Sandwiches withcaféattached. cost sugar-roasted summerveg oncouscous. a world-flavour twist,such with assalmon Swedishfavouritesity dishescontains with market Itsextensive brasserie. menuof qual- h mains Skr235-265; head totheafter-beach partiesatTylösand. Storgatan. Alternatively, onsummernights pubs andbars, mostlyaroundpedestrianised Halmstad isjam-packed withdiningspots, EATING &DRINKING quite romantic. meat, andtheatmosphere iscultivated and presented, withmainsof mostlyfish and prepare foratreat. Dishesare immaculately atthisexclusive restaurantsuede seats and at Tylebäck, in a pleasantly rusticlocation. at Tylebäck,inapleasantly pockets –camping,hostel, hotel –isoffered hotel s/dSkr795/995) gen 1;sitesSkr220,1-/2-/3-/4-bedrmSkr260/390/585/780, nearby Lilla Torg are somepopulardrinking tembolaget StoraTorg. justoff There’s aHemköp supermarket andaSys- fish mealsincludingbouillabaisse. or more expensive, well-prepared meatand dinner. There are options, low-pricedpasta placeforafine menu, thisisanotherpleasant h Fridolfs Krog Fridolfs Tylebäck For somethingquick,visithole-in-the- Lilla Helfwetet Pios Bakficka Klamedam Pio &Co On thenorthern partof Storgatan and Skånska Hembageriet Skånska from 6pm) closed Sun) closed Sun) h Pasta Huset Nudel Bar from 6pm) SOUTHWEST SWEDEN••Halland

(

% ( Pio’sisanaward-winningup- % With its funky dancing devil Withitsfunkydancingdevil Thisisagoodold-fashioned

(

% 21 06 69; Storgatan 37; mains Skr160-230; 21 0669;Storgatan37;mainsSkr160-230;

Less exclusive Less andwithawide

(

19 18 00; [email protected]; Kungsvä- 19 1800;[email protected]; (pasta Skr29) % (Storgatan; meals incl drink Skr60) (Storgatan; mealsincldrink h (Lilla Torg;mealsunderSkr100) Accommodationtosuitall

12 4050;Klammerdammsgatan21; 21 1666;Brogatan26;mealsSkr75- 6-11pm Mon-Sat) ( %

21 0420;Hamngatan37; ( % vanonStoraTorg. 21 2407;Storgatan40; Slideonto

231 Be- or SOUTHWEST SWEDEN SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST SWEDEN Jun–early Aug, 9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri rest ofyr) Jun–early Aug,9.30am-5pmMon-Fri Skr50/10; 09 21;LillaTorg) bus Express tion isafew blocksawayatÖsterbro. corner of thetowncentre, andthebussta- Arlandaairport. nections toStockholm’s the towncentre. Skywayshasregular con- .se; Brunnparken; .se; Brunnparken; (Skr81, 45minutes). Helsingborg (Skr110,onehour)andVarberg two hours) stopinHalmstad, callinginat (Skr170, 1¼hours) andMalmö (Skr160, ice toJönköping(Skr178,2¾hours). Express alsohasadirect serv- twice-weekly a cheaper pricebutlessfrequently. Swebus The SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES bogbody. served prison andnowhometoanexcellently pre- side includesitsfortress, asa onceused in thesummermonths. Varberg’s darker triples beaches: itspopulationconsequently a 60kmstretch of beautifulwhite-sand This attractive townliesbythesideof % Varberg per half/fullday. Skr20/10). (adult/childclubs andbeaches atTylösand tothe Local bus10runsatleasthalf-hourly AROUND GETTING The THERE&AWAYGETTING places, includingpub-style 232 ing roundthecorner,and from ance getting around.Youcanhire abike 67; www.svenskabuss.se) Storgatan 22) are nearby. in thecentre of town,andmostfacilities hours) andLund. (Skr90, onehour),Göteborg (Skr120,1¾ to Malmö (Skr178,2¼hours), Helsingborg timesdaily atleastfiveruns buses toseven h The train station isinthesoutheastern The trainstation The regular Göteborg trainsbetween The Try 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pmSat) 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 0340 /pop54,338 SOUTHWESTSWEDEN••Halland airport medieval fortress medieval Cykel &Sport Cykel Taxi Halmstad tourist office tourist h , withalarge outdoorterrace curl-

(

10am-5pm mid-Jun– mid-Aug,10am-4pm % ( , inaformerfire station. % h 0200-21 8218;www.swebusexpress.se) 12 8070) 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat,3-6pmSunlate

runs the same routes, at runsthesame Svenska Buss Svenska ( (

% % ( %

isonly2kmwestof 887 70;www.turist.varberg 21 2251;Norravägen11; ( % 21 8000) Harrys 828 30;adult/6-17yr forSkr70/100 Bulls Pub

( % forassist-

( islocated % 0771-67 67 10 5595;

( % Swe- 14

h turist.varberg.se; dm/s/d Skr210/280/470) 9am-5pm Sat&Sunwinter) under 15yrSkr45/25; offers themfordetails. courses: contact buildings. old prisoncellsorlarger roomsinother est hostels inSweden.Itoffers singlesin fortress, this SVIFhostel isoneof thefin- in thestriking in Europe. clothing medieval most perfectly preserved in 1936.His14th-centurycostumeisthe sten Man, dugoutof apeatbogatÅkulle Unusual exhibitsincludethepooroldBock- isthemainattractioninVarberg.museum, good exhibitions. Mon-Fri, noon-4pmSat&Sunrest ofyr) Mon-Fri, to Skr725/1025) Borgmästaregatan 1;s/dfromSkr945/1295,discounted Fästningens Vandrarhem SLEEPING &EATING buffet. All prices includebreakfast and a dinner outdoor terraces, plusguestscan rent bikes. ful, withlotsof extraslike alibraryand clean,stylish andcolour-inside it’sbright, looklikeit doesn’t much fromtheoutside, best valueintownsummer. Although recommended andprobably offers the tour. to letthemknowifyou’dlike anEnglish Sunday, Julytomid-August): phoneahead (on thehourfrom11amto5pmTuesday in theworld.Admissionisbyguidedtour the onlysuch long-wave left radiostation atlantic communicationnetwork:todayit’s age List.Itwaspartof theinterwar trans was addedtotheUnescoWorldHerit- .nu; perhr/daySkr80/300; 41 90;Grimeton) a has Thereserve (mostly waders andgeese). of thetownandhasexcellentbirdlife justnorthof thefort. sea builtonstiltsaboveoutdoor bathhouse the Surfer’s Paradise Surfer’s surfing Sweden’s bestplacefor Naturum Hotell Gästis Hotell Brave thebriskNordicweatherandswim In 2004,the Apelviken Apelviken Getterön Nature Reserve Nature Getterön 10am-4pm May-Aug; Fri, Sat&SunSep-Apr) Fri, 10am-4pm May-Aug; . Bringyourownkitorrent from

(visitors centre; , just2kmsouthof Varberg, is Thisfriendlyplaceishighly , about10kmeastof Varberg,

( h % Kallbadhuset ( Varberg Radio Station Radio Varberg % mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 1-8pmWed& 180 50;[email protected]; , abizarre Moorish-style 67 7055;info@surfersparadise h

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