Ancient , 12, 2012-13: 101-116

ISHTIAQ ANSARI

ECO : AND OTHER RESORTS

ABSTRACT: - The paper focuses on Ecotourism in Sindh. Sindh is a resource rich region and t has quite a large number of attractive places. These places could be developed as hill stations and resorts. The Khirthar range dividing Sindh and Baluchistan is rich archaeologically. As it’s a sanctuary of wildlife, tombs of saints and abounds in rock art.

This region has great potential for ecotourism. The Gorakh Hill station together with outer peaks where hill resorts could be developed are ideal places and once accomplished this region would thrive economically.

INTRODUCTION Eco tourism involves travels to destination, where flora, fauna and cultural heritage are of prime attractions. In fact it is defined as "responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people" (TIES, 1990). This type of tourism is built on some clearly defined principles, few are reflected below:

1. Minimize impact. 2. Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect. 3. Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts. 4. Provide direct financial benefits for conservation. 5. Provide financial benefits and empowerment for local people.

Keeping these parameters in mind, the Gorakh hill resort and other possible resorts in Sindh were studied and analyzed from ecotourism point of view.

BACKGROUND The Efforts for the Establishment of Khirthar Hill Station began in the colonial period, when the British conquered Sindh and stayed here. They strived to explore some cold places in Sindh, where one could take refuge from tropical weather and scorching beams of the Sun in summer, they enjoyed the weather of Jhirrik, near . Besides, they also liked the scenery of "Bhago Thorho" (broken and bald) at lucky. They were impressed by that place and established a railway station there. In monsoon season, the scenes of the striking waves of Mehran at the foot of Bhago Thorho were ideal and they enjoyed this monsoon scenery.

 Centre for Documentation & Conservation Hyderabad (SINDH-PK)

101 Plate 1: Khirthar range in western Sindh

In addition to the above places in Sindh, they found attraction in the Khirthar Range and they started to explore the peaks of Khirthar. It was 1860 that Dr. Lakor and Captain McDonald visited the Khirthar peaks and after that many British Officers visited those places and stayed during the monsoonal showers. The sent the author and Dr. Kaleem Lashari to survey Gorakh, Kachrak and Darrhyaro. During that expedition, we observed a big Rock, down to "Kute ji Qabar" (dog's grave) on Darrhyaro. People had carved their names on it, it was just like a visitor's book, and possessed hundred years of old history of the establishment of the hill station on that cold strip. Some of the important inscribed were of:

 Georgei Handerson 1861  W.H. Bolton 1862  A.W Baknari 1880  Mirza Qaleech Baig 1885  H.E. Watson  C.A. Lucas 1916  R.H.W Daries  Baloch 1925

Traces of water pond and a rest house was noticed at Darrhyaro. Khudadad Khan and S. Minefields also stayed for five months at Darrhyaro. Khudadad Khan

102 writes, “Honorable Commissioner kept with him Assistants and the scribe, he pegged tents and set camp there. It is the highest mountain as it has been whispering to skies. It is very dry and cold. It feels like Simla resort. Always it rains and hail storming occurs too. Many people live in the vicinity of the mountain. They belong to Chuto tribe. There is no other population. However, wild fruits such as fig, mulberry and Lohri (a local fruit) grow there in abundance and the taste of those fruits is like the taste of the fruits of Khorasan and Yaghistan. The Khahoo trees (Olea ferruginea) are strong and heavy with precious wood and local people use it as firewood. The Commissioner Sahib spent lavishly that summer by enjoying hunting. The people of this area were dependant on rain for their livelihood. When there had been rained, the people of the area collected/ stored that rain water in pitchers and other domestic utensils to utilize it in need. Therefore, the scribe with the help of Honorable Commissioner constructed a vast and broad water pond with the cost of Rs.1000/- as the local people as well as travelers are benefited”.

It is said that the material for the rest house was brought there on camel’s backs. The tin was used for roofs of the buildings which were joined through nut bolts. The local people are of the view that, the rest house was built by "Tipparr Sahib" (Trevor). The people call him "Tipparr" Sahib. Trevor was the Commissioner of around 1887. Many other officers also visited peaks of Khirthar is documented in the book "Northern Kachho of Sindh" as under:

 1887 – Sir Roberts Sandeeman, Governor General of Baluchistan visited Khirthar including Kute Ji Qabar and Gorakh.  1893 – Mr. H. M. James, Commissioner of Sindh, (along With his Assistant Mr. Lucas and District police of Tipper Sindh (Jacobabad) and Khan Bahadur Khudadad Khan) visited the entire range, from Kute Ji Qabar to .Jammoro.  1906 - Mr. Lucas visited Gorakh and other places.  1912 - Mr. Morton, Collector of visited Kute Ji Qabar and Gorakh.  1917 - His Highness Mir Abdul Hussain "Sangi" visited Kute Ji Qabar.  1927- Mr. Gorwala, the Collector, visited Khirthar from Ghaibi Dero including Kute Ji Qabar, Harbab, Gorakh and Jammuro  Mr. G. M Syed visited Khirthar for four times during, 1928,1937,1940,1953.

The people of the area remembered that Ms. Fatima Jinnah came here accompanied with G. M Syed, the camp was set at Shakloi, few miles before Gorakh. The tents were pegged out and blown by severe winds at night and Ms. Fatima Jinnah left for Karachi early in the morning.

The efforts for the establishment of hill station continued even after partition. In 1954, Mir Ghulam Hussain gave Rs: l Lac to Sindh Government for the development of the hill station. Sindh Government wanted to shift some of its offices there. Later on, that money was utilized on flood emergency. In 1955, M.H. Panhwar visited this area. Abdul Hafiz Pirzado also explored the site by jeep for the hill station and then Zulfiqar Ali

103 Bhutto came there by helicopter. Ms. Benazir Bhutto also landed on "Mamthal" peak by helicopter. Nawaz Sharif also visited the Gorakh. In 1990, Kaleem Lashari, and the writer surveyed Kute Ji Qabar, Darrhyaro, Kachark, Harar and the Gorakh on foot and submitted a report to Sindh Government about the paths, water reservoirs and springs of Khirthar. Dr. Muhammad Hussain Magsi also struggled for the establishment of the hill station. Besides, Abdullah Shah and Liaqat Ali Jatoi also visited to built and upgrade the resort.

Plate.2: Peaks of Kirthar.

Visits different peaks of Khirthar was aimed to select the suitable place for the establishment of the hill station.

THE KHIRTHAR RANGE AND ITS VARIOUS PEAKS Khirthar Range, starting from Baluchistan, stretched to the sea, and this mountain is also called "The Plateau of Sindh". There are few higher peaks which are distinct from each other and vary in size and elevation. Some of them are about 7000 feet high and some nearly 5000 feet.

The major sites for resorts in Khirthar are, Kute ji Qabar, Darrhyaro, Barigh, Kakryo, Karo, Damryo, Hararr, Kachark, Wango, Daphrro, Bhago Thorrho, Halar, Bado, Dunbar, Mubahi, Kanbho, Sorjano, Sambak, Garror, Larrho, Horho, Mamthal, Shakloi, Gorakh, and Bhit etc.

104 Plate.3: Kute ji Qabar (Dog’s Grave) the highest mountain peak of Khirthar range

The efforts have been taken since long to establish the hill stations there. The important peaks are; Kute Ji Qabar 7200 feet, Darrhyaro 6500 feet, Kachrak 5200 feet, Bado 3000 feet and Gorakh 4750 feet.

GORAKH AS A FAVORABLE SPOT FOR HILL STATION After a diversified study of those peaks, the experts were of the opinion that Hill station should be established at Gorakh because of the following reasons:

There is a vast flat area on top of the peak whereas no other peaks of Khirthar are as Gorakh. There is plentiful water at Gorakh.

Plate.4: Sindh point Gorakh: where we can observe major part Kachho

105  It is easy to reach at Gorakh then the other peaks.  The number of local people on Gorakh is higher than the other peaks.  Gorakh remains cool even in the months of June and July.  Mostly, clouds remain over Gorakh.  Greenery prevails on Gorakh, even in dry season.  The nearby spring of Heengan is beneficial for the development of a hill station.  Local people can be good hosts and facilitators to the visitors, and tourists.  The construction material is available sufficiently to establish the hill station.  The fish of rare kind can be brought up in the water of springs and hill torrents.  It is easy to rehabilitate the communication system here.  The management of law and order is easy because of rehabilitation of the communication system and availability of the transportation facilities.  Most important thing is that all the hill stations of world remains opened for only few months in summer but Gorakh Hill station would be the place of interest and attraction for tourist and visitors throughout the year because of its pleasant and moderate weather.

Considering the above points, the experts proposed Gorakh for hill station

Plate.5: Snow fall at Gorakh

106 GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION OF GORAKH The Gorakh hill in Khirthar Ranges is situated in Johi taluka of district Dadu. It forms border of Sindh Baluchistan and survey of has fixed posts there. It is the Sindh Baluchistan gateway. It is located 94 kilometers to the west of Dadu town and 429kms from Karachi. Its climate is pleasant with lush green and beautiful landscape; it is 5866′ feet above sea-level. The weather remains pleasant in summer and cold in winter, The Government of Sindh, earmarked 10,000 acre area for the Hill station. The Gorakh hill is 4750 feet high, on a vast plateau and 1340 acres of that tract are in Sindh and 1060 acres are in Baluchistan. Thus, the plateau consists on 2400 acres. According to the survey of Sindh Government; some 200 acres of the plateau land can be cultivated including 40 acres of Baluchistan area.

During the severe heat in Sindh, the temperature of this peak is recorded as 17°C to 30°C. While, temperature remains between 20°C to - 5°C in winter. Sometimes, people melt the ice on fire to utilize it for drinking purpose. There are deep faults on the Gorakh. In geology, a fault is an extended break in a rock formation, marked by the relative displacement and discontinuity of strata through a geological process.

Plate.6: Recorded temperature at different places and heights

107 The sun light remains exposed here for 10 hours and 50 minutes in winter and 13 hours and 35 minutes in summer. The rainfall is recorded 12.5 inches and the wind pressure remains 14 nautical miles in August and it is decreased to 8 nautical miles in May. The coldness depends in wind blowing. The faster the wind, the cooler becomes the climate. However, the coolness decreases with the stoppage of wind blowing. Usually the wind velocity is 2 to 6 miles per hour. Beside Gorakh, Barigh, Mamthal, Matothal, Jozithal, Shakloi peaks are famous for their cold climate. From the Gorakh peak, in the west fogged valleys and beautiful mountains present beautiful landscape.

On stepping down in the west of Gorakh, the Jammuro pass would welcome the visitors, followed by vastly stretched Jammuro valley. Because of the abundance of Jamun trees (Eugenia Jambulana) in the valley, it is called "Jammuro". The village Jammuro is situated at a distance of 16 miles to the west of Jammuro pass. Beside, "Dureji" town of the district Lasbela of Baluchistan is the neighbouring town to Gorakh. After the establishment of the hill station, the trekkers and hitch-hikers would be attracted by lakherani, Gaz, Tikho Gaz, Niagar, Munaro, Khrtho, Bishuno, Golarri, Darbandi Bazag, Thoth and Wadu Peaks.

Looking to the north east, from the Gorakh hill, Zigzagging Nai Gaaj presents a very beautiful and a panoramic view. Recently arrangements are underway to construct the Gaaj Dam on it. After the construction of the dam, this area will be turned into a paradise. The Nai Gaaj is like jugular vein for the people of Khirthar and Kachho.

NAME OF GORAKH AND ITS BACKGROUND Many reasons are narrated about the name of Gorakh. People mention some myths, traditions, stories, topographical names and terms of other languages in this regard. A tradition prevails in the area, that Gorakh is a name of bird, which stays always in the sky and comes to earth only in summer. Another tradition describes "Gorakh" as an herb.

Some people are of the opinion that "Gorav" means "Red" in Balochi and the western side of the hill seems red, so it was named as Gorakh" or as Gorki goat. Dr. Nabi Bux Baloch describes Gorki goat, as the goat which is red, red from neck to shoulders. Some are of the opinion that Gorakh is derived from "Gorakh" which means "torrents of rainfall" because there had been torrential rains in the past.

Some local people call this place Gorakh/Gurag. Gurg or Gurkh means wolf in Balochi /Persian. It is said that the place had remained abode of wolves, therefore it is called Gurag.

108 Plate.7: Gorakh had remained abode of wolves

Gorg is written in the map of the survey of Pakistan. H.T. Lambrick, in his book “Sindh: A General introduction” has called it Gorag. He writes “Gorag is the highest peak in the South of Gaaj. It is 5600′ feet elevated and stretched over a vast plateau”. Some researchers are of the opinion that the name of Gorakh was kept after the name on Guru.

Plate.7: Guru Gorakhnath

109 WATER RESOURCES Availability of water is essential for life. Therefore experts, evaluate water resources of a place before establishing settlements there. Before the establishment of Gorakh hill station, the search was made for water reserves in the area. People, livestock and the birds quench their thirst from the water of Gorakh.

There are about 22 mountains springs present in the vicinity of Gorakh. Half of those are in Sindh and half are in Baluchistan. Three of them are major; Gaji Bunjo, Niyagar and Heengan, which can fulfill the water need of the area. Some 1000 gallon per hour water comes out of Gaji Bunjo, 260 gallon per hour water comes out of Niagar and 13500 gallon per hour water comes out of Heengan. The experts are of the opinion that the three springs are sufficient for the area. Regarding Heengen it is said to be very hygienic and its pH value is 7.4, while pH value of common mineral water is 8.

During rainy season, several rain streams, washes and runs near the Gorakh, they fill the bed of Nai Gaaj. Among those major are; Mamani, Layton, Shakloi, Dibhani, Taki and etc. Besides, there are many water reservoirs and ponds as; Shaklo, Jammuro, Gadah Khor, Dibhi, Gazamol, Shutug, Chinngi etc.

People of the mountain area make water harvesting ponds on self help basis. They call that pond as Kharr and such Kharrs are at several places in the mountain, so that the people and livestock may quench their thirst easily. The natural low-lying places, where water is gathered are called Chakharr. Kunb is the name given to a water reserve gathered in the bed of a dried Nai.

The local people have constructed check dams and cultivated their land through rainwater. However, there are still several places, where check dams can be built to collect the rain water.

Plate.8: A charming view of Nai Gaaj

110 NAI GAAJ After the establishment of a town at hill station, the water would be supplied to the people from Nai Gaaj, whose flow is two (2) Million gallons per day.

On opening the map of Baluchistan, Sulleman and Harboi Mountains, can be viewed at the center of Baluchistan, in north east and north west of Khuzdar. The three main rain streams flow from those mountains are; Nai Mola, Nai Karkh, Nai Kolachi.

Nai Kolachi flows from Harboi Mountain, taking side of the mountains, passes through Jammuro, Bhit Rarr, and valleys. Jammuro pass in the south of Nai Bhit Ran in the north crosses Khirthar mountain and enters into Sindh through a secret low-lying descence, where there is a largest kunb namely Thakh Kunb. It is 70 feet deep and is stretched over five acres. Crocodiles and fish are in abundance in kunbh. Besides kunb, there is a huge cave. Nai Gaaj falls in Manchhar Lake after crossing taluka Johi. In Sindh, it travels 50 miles distance. It passes through a secret descence and then called Nai Gaaj, because it makes thunder during flood seasons. The experts are of the opinion that water of Gaaj would fulfill all the requirements of the hill station and initial preparations are being made and a pipe line is fixed in this regard.

Tourist places on the route to Gorakh Traveling from Karachi, there are a number of tourist places of historical/archaeological importance.

Fig. 1: Map showing the Route to Gorakh from Karachi.

111  Bhanbhore: Bhanbhore dates from 1st Century BC to 13th Century. Some archaeologist and historian suggest it is the historical place Debal.

 Makli: It is the largest necropolis in the world; it is also in the world heritage list. Keenjhar: is declared as Ramser site, it’s a bird sanctuary. Keenjhar is also important tourist resort.

 Hyderabad: The city was founded in 1768 by Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro upon the ruins of a Mauryan fishing village along the bank of the Indus known as Neroon Kot. Formerly the capital of Sindh, it serves as the HQ of the district of Hyderabad. The last Battle of Amir Talpor and the British took place in this city in 1843. Before the creation of Pakistan, it was known as the Paris of India, for its roads used to be washed with river water.

 Khirthar National Park: The Kirthar National Park is situated in the Kirthar Range Mountains in Karachi and District in Sindh, Pakistan. It was founded in 1974 and stretches over 3087 km², being the second largest National Park of Pakistan after Hingol National Park. The fauna comprises Leopards, striped Hyenas, Wolves, Ratels, Urials, Chinkara Gazelles and rare Sind wild Goats. Blackbuck Antelopes are kept in enclosures for a reintroduction project at Kirthar National Park.

 Rani Kot: Rani Kot is said to be the largest existing fort in the world, it gigantic fortification runs over a hilly area in periphery of 34 km. The forts wall is built with yellow sand stone, about 47 bastions encircling the fortification.

 Sewhan: Sewan is the oldest city of Indo-Pak. It is famous for Sufi Saint Lal Shabaz Qalander. Manchhar: Manchhar is the largest lake of Pakistan and Asia. It is on the Indus Fly-way of migratory birds.

 Khudabad: In Kalhora period Khuabad was the oldest capital of Sindh. Khudabad Mosque and Mian Yar Mohammad Kalhoro Tomb are historical places.

 Drigh Bala: Drigh Bala was the first Head Quarter of in Sindh. Mir Allah Yar grave yard is a historical place to visit.

112 Plate.9: The dancing girl: it is similar to the dancing girl of Mohen Jo Daro. The bracelets in her right arm indicates its antiquity

Petroglyphs: There are so many petro glyphs at different places in Khirthar. These petroglyphs starting from the prehistoric period, figures of different animals, pictures, hunting scene, Stupa symbols reflecting religious trends and abstract expressions that are shown through these petroglyphs.

Plate 10: Khawal Pass: These passes have been remained travelling passages since centuries

113 PASSES / PASSAGES Khirthar Range runs on the western side of Sindh bordering and separating Sindh and Baluchistan. However, there are number of passes in the range, being utilized by the people since centuries for transportation, migration and commerce.

These passes are linked with the other areas of Sindh as well as with Baluchistan and beyond. All the trade and commerce routes of dry zone had passed through this place in the past, Trade caravans used to come and go through these passages. Due to this fact ruins of prehistoric period are also found here from Khirthar valleys to the vicinity of Nai Gaaj and other Nai’s. Thus, the Gorakh is strategically located. The passes through the Khirthar include: Shakloi Pass, Meenhoon Pass, Chowkri Pass, Khawal Pass, Zokhan pass. Machhko Passage, Gazmol Pass, Jammoro Pass, Srehani Passage. Phoori Passage etc.

POPULATION Some 2000 population of Alkhani, Bozdar, Malookhani, Kaloi and Rind castes (all are Baloch) live around the Gorakh hill.

LIVESTOCK All the tribes inhibiting on Gorakh depend on agriculture and livestock. Mostly goats, Sheep and Camels are reared here. The Sheep and Goat are seen grazing throughout the valleys and the piedmont plains.

Plate 11: Immortal scenic beauty of Gorakh

114 TREKKING The tourist reaching at Gorakh can spend; their time and can see the virgin beauty of the areas through various treks, where they can enjoy fishing, trekking, hiking and skying. I personally have been enjoying trekking and fishing on those tracks. However, a local guide is necessary for it.

Trek 1: The tourists after reaching at Gorakh, can go to Nai Gaaj by doing trekking and can enjoy their fishing, all the day. There are some suitable places for camping also. The government should construct huts and develop camping area at Gaaj.

Trek 2: The tourists can spend their whole day in enjoying the trekking to go to the spring of Heengan.

Trek 3: Mamthal peak is at a little distance from Gorakh and tourist can trek towards it and can enjoy outdoor games on a vast plateau.

Trek 4: For day spending, the tourist can reach Jammuro by doing trekking crossing through Jammun and can do Kachehri with local people.

Trek 5: The adventurers can cross the western peaks of Baluchistan. Those peaks are suitable for air Skying and Hiking.

Trek 6: The tourists keen on trekking can reach to the beautiful valley of kachrak of Gorakh and can enjoy pleasant climate of the location. That trek would take two days.

Trek 7: During the stay on Gorakh, the tourists keen on archaeology, can find a beautiful trek from leading to Piprasar via Bodo, Miankot, Karokot. Sindhi writers played cricket match at Gorakh Hill station for first time, expecting that as a stadium will be constructed for the progress and projection of the sports.

Besides, there are other beautiful peaks, valleys and water ponds, where tourists can spend their time by doing trekking and other activities.

About two thousand people of various castes are settled at Gorakh, and earn their livelihood by livestock grazing. They are living there since centuries. This region would benefit economically, if tourism facilities are provided and Gorakh is established as a hill resort provided, strict adherence to Eco tourism factors are considered and the nature, conservation and other life is not disturbed.

The grazing pastures are also not vacated from the local people, where they have been grazing their livestock since centuries and have spent their golden days of youth.

115 There are huge flocks of camels in Khirthar and at the foot of Gorakh. The camel rearing is a main activity of the area. Those flocks of camels would be pushed away by the pressure of urban population, which should not be again disturbed, besides it; the arrangements for wandering livestock should be made properly.

It is said that there had been jackals in abundance in the area and some are of the view that the name Gorakh had been kept after wolves. The question arises that how those jackals or wolves had been extinct? How stretched wolves ibex and other wildlife will be saved after the establishment of Gorakh Hill Station.

Thus, the people of the area might have to face residential, economic and cultural damage. Hence the Government should take necessary steps to facilitate the local people in this regard, as offering market-linked long-term solutions; ecotourism provides effective economic incentives for conserving and enhancing bio-cultural diversity and helps protect the natural and cultural heritage of our beautiful planet.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

ANSARI ISHTIAQ, 2002 - Dharti Mata, Sindhica Academy Karachi.2002. AZIZ KINGRANI, 2012 - Sindh Tourism. An Archaeological Journey, Sindh Tourism Development Corporation. KHAN, KHUDADAD Khan, 1959 - Lubb-i-Tarikh Sindh, Ed. Dr. N. A. Baloch, , Hyderabad. LAKHO, GHULAM MOHAMMAD, 1987 - Samman- Je- Sultanat, Pakistan Study Centre, , Jamshoro. LAMBRICK HUGH TREVOR, 1982 - Sindh: A General Introduction, Sindhi Adabi, Board, Hyderabad. PANHWER, M.H., 1983 - Chronological Dictionary of Sind, Institute of University of Sindh, Jamshoro.

AUTHORS’ ADDRESS: ISHTIAQ ANSARI, Centre for Documentation & Conservation Hyderabad (SINDH-PK) E-mail: [email protected]

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