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CLOTHING Gown : Áo Đầm Dài Frock
TRANG PHỤC - CLOTHING Gown : áo đầm dài Frock : áo đầm, áo thầy tu Tailcoat : áo đuôi tôm Topcoat : áo bành tô Pallium/pallia : áo bào (của tổng giám mục) Blouse : áo cánh nữ Caftan : áo cáptân (Thổ Nhĩ Kì) Windbreaker : áo chống gió Cassock : áo chùng (tu sĩ) Frock coat : áo choàng Gown : áo choàng (quan tòa; luật sư) Capote : áo choàng dài (thường có mũ trên đầu) Cloak : áo choàng không tay Pelisse : áo choàng lông (nữ) Roe : áo choàng mặc trong nhà Mantlet/ mantelet : áo choàng ngắn Mackinaw : áo choàng ngắn, dày Dress : áo đầm Vest : áo ghi lê Waistcoat : áo ghi lê Jacket : áo jắc két Parka : áo jắc két dày có mũ 76 Trần Quang Khải, Hồng Bàng, Hải Phòng | 02256.538.538 | 01286.538.538 | www.myenglish.edu.vn | facebook.com/MyEnglishCenter Coat : áo khoác Bolero : áo khoác ngắn của nữ (không có nút, khuy phía trước) Overcoat : áo khoác ngoài Smock : áo khoác ngoài (để làm việc); áo chửa Manteau : áo khoác, áo măng tô Kimono : áo ki mô nô Skivvies : áo lót Undershirt : áo lót Vest : áo lót Chemise : áo lót phụ nữ Cardigan : áo len Surplice : áo lễ Chasuble : áo lễ (tu sĩ) Cope : áo lễ (tu sĩ) Blazer : áo màu (thể thao) Mackintosh : áo mưa Raincoat : áo mưa Waterproof : áo mưa Trench coat : áo mưa (quân đội) Slicker : áo mưa thụng dài Nightshirt : áo ngủ (nam) Jersey : áo nịt len Poncho : áo pôn sô (áo cánh dơi) 76 Trần Quang Khải, Hồng Bàng, Hải Phòng | 02256.538.538 | 01286.538.538 | www.myenglish.edu.vn | facebook.com/MyEnglishCenter T-shirt : áo thun có tay Nightclothes : áo quần ngủ Pyjamas, pajamas : áo quần ngủ (nam) Shirt : áo -
I Was Tempted by a Pretty Coloured Muslin
“I was tempted by a pretty y y coloured muslin”: Jane Austen and the Art of Being Fashionable MARY HAFNER-LANEY Mary Hafner-Laney is an historic costumer. Using her thirty-plus years of trial-and-error experience, she has given presentations and workshops on how women of the past dressed to historical societies, literary groups, and costuming and re-enactment organizations. She is retired from the State of Washington . E E plucked that first leaf o ff the fig tree in the Garden of Eden and decided green was her color, women of all times and all places have been interested in fashion and in being fashionable. Jane Austen herself wrote , “I beleive Finery must have it” (23 September 1813) , and in Northanger Abbey we read that Mrs. Allen cannot begin to enjoy the delights of Bath until she “was provided with a dress of the newest fashion” (20). Whether a woman was like Jane and “so tired & ashamed of half my present stock that I even blush at the sight of the wardrobe which contains them ” (25 December 1798) or like the two Miss Beauforts in Sanditon , who required “six new Dresses each for a three days visit” (Minor Works 421), dress was a problem to be solved. There were no big-name designers with models to show o ff their creations. There was no Project Runway . There were no department stores or clothing empori - ums where one could browse for and purchase garments of the latest fashion. How did a woman achieve a stylish appearance? Just as we have Vogue , Elle and In Style magazines to keep us up to date on the most current styles, women of the Regency era had The Ladies Magazine , La Belle Assemblée , Le Beau Monde , The Gallery of Fashion , and a host of other publications (Decker) . -
Fashion,Costume,And Culture
FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 4: Modern World Part I: 19004 – 1945 SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos. -
Clothing Terms from Around the World
Clothing terms from around the world A Afghan a blanket or shawl of coloured wool knitted or crocheted in strips or squares. Aglet or aiglet is the little plastic or metal cladding on the end of shoelaces that keeps the twine from unravelling. The word comes from the Latin word acus which means needle. In times past, aglets were usually made of metal though some were glass or stone. aiguillette aglet; specifically, a shoulder cord worn by designated military aides. A-line skirt a skirt with panels fitted at the waist and flaring out into a triangular shape. This skirt suits most body types. amice amice a liturgical vestment made of an oblong piece of cloth usually of white linen and worn about the neck and shoulders and partly under the alb. (By the way, if you do not know what an "alb" is, you can find it in this glossary...) alb a full-length white linen ecclesiastical vestment with long sleeves that is gathered at the waist with a cincture aloha shirt Hawaiian shirt angrakha a long robe with an asymmetrical opening in the chest area reaching down to the knees worn by males in India anklet a short sock reaching slightly above the ankle anorak parka anorak apron apron a garment of cloth, plastic, or leather tied around the waist and used to protect clothing or adorn a costume arctic a rubber overshoe reaching to the ankle or above armband a band usually worn around the upper part of a sleeve for identification or in mourning armlet a band, as of cloth or metal, worn around the upper arm armour defensive covering for the body, generally made of metal, used in combat. -
Hunting Shirts and Silk Stockings: Clothing Early Cincinnati
Fall 1987 Clothing Early Cincinnati Hunting Shirts and Silk Stockings: Clothing Early Cincinnati Carolyn R. Shine play function is the more important of the two. Shakespeare, that fount of familiar quotations and universal truths, gave Polonius these words of advice for Laertes: Among the prime movers that have shaped Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy, But not expressed infancy; history, clothing should be counted as one of the most potent, rich not gaudy; For the apparel oft proclaims the man.1 although its significance to the endless ebb and flow of armed conflict tends to be obscured by the frivolities of Laertes was about to depart for the French fashion. The wool trade, for example, had roughly the same capital where, then as now, clothing was a conspicuous economic and political significance for the Late Middle indicator of social standing. It was also of enormous econo- Ages that the oil trade has today; and, closer to home, it was mic significance, giving employment to farmers, shepherds, the fur trade that opened up North America and helped weavers, spinsters, embroiderers, lace makers, tailors, button crack China's centuries long isolation. And think of the Silk makers, hosiers, hatters, merchants, sailors, and a host of others. Road. Across the Atlantic and nearly two hundred If, in general, not quite so valuable per pound years later, apparel still proclaimed the man. Although post- as gold, clothing like gold serves as a billboard on which to Revolution America was nominally a classless society, the display the image of self the individual wants to present to social identifier principle still manifested itself in the quality the world. -
Cora Ginsburg 2013 Catalogue
CORA GiNSbuRG llC TiTi HAlle OWNeR A Catalogue of exquisite & rare works of art including 16th to 20th century costume textiles & needlework 2013 by appointment 19 east 74th Street tel 212-744-1352 New York, NY 10021 fax 212-879-1601 www.coraginsburg.com [email protected] BLACKWORK PANEL English, ca. 1590 Embroidered costume came into fashion in England in the mid-sixteenth century and was out of style by the time of the Civil War. In its earliest manifestations, decorative geometric stitches were confined to the borders of smocks and chemises and were typically executed in a single color of silk thread, with black being one of the most stylish. The repertoire of motifs employed in blackwork gradually expanded to include elaborate floral and faunal designs adapted from new prints and illustrated books. The botanist John Gerrard’s Herball, or Generall Historie of Plantes, first published in 1597, was the earliest fully illustrated book of its type in England, and it specifically invoked embroidery in its preface: For if delight may provide men’s labour, what greater delight is there than to behold the earth appareled with plants, as with a robe of imbroidered works, set with orient pearles and garnished with great diversitie of rare and costly jewels. This panel comes from one of the most exceptional assemblages of Elizabethan blackwork to have survived from the period. It likely originated as part of a pair of balloon sleeves, which were fashionable for women’s dress in the late-sixteenth century, or as a petticoat worn over a drum farthingale. -
The History of Fashion in France;
:J**T i-HOl RARE BOOK COLLECTION fM THE LIBRARIES The University of Georgia ~i?<j>tf . - THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE. P- „,-.</<'•', I THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE; OR, THE DRESS OF WOMEN FROM THE GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME. FROM THE FRENCH OF M. AUGUST] X CH.\LL.\MEI. EY MRS. CASHEL HOEY AND MR. JOHN LILLIE. jgclu |9orh : S C R T J5 V £ K A N LJ V V, L V • ) 1< U 1882. w\&r T2SO CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. Various definitions of fashion—The grave side of its history—Quotations from the poets—Character of Frenchwomen—The refinement of their tastes and fancies— Paris the temple of fashion—The provinces—Mdlle. Mars' yellow gown—The causes of fashion—A saying of Mme. de Girardin's—A remark of Mrs. Trollope's— The dress of actresses—Earliest theories of fashion—The Gynseceum of Amman— First appearance of the "Journal des Dames et des Modes"—Lamesangere— Other publications—An anecdote concerning dolls—Plan of the History of t"sJ,oriBOK Fashion in France ............ PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. JOHN©S SQUARE. CHAPTER I. THE GALLIC AND GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD. Gallic period—Woad, or the pastel—Tunics and boulgetes—"Mavors" and "Palla" —Cleanliness of the Gallic women -The froth of beer or "kourou"—The women of Marseilles ; their marriage-portions — Gallo-Roman period — The Roman garment—The'' stola "—Refinement of elegance—Extravagant luxury of women— Artificial aids—A " vestiaire" or wardrobe-room of the period—Shoes—Jewels and ornaments—The amber and crystal ball—Influence of the barbarians CHAPTER II. -
The Complete Costume Dictionary
The Complete Costume Dictionary Elizabeth J. Lewandowski The Scarecrow Press, Inc. Lanham • Toronto • Plymouth, UK 2011 Published by Scarecrow Press, Inc. A wholly owned subsidiary of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. 4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706 http://www.scarecrowpress.com Estover Road, Plymouth PL6 7PY, United Kingdom Copyright © 2011 by Elizabeth J. Lewandowski Unless otherwise noted, all illustrations created by Elizabeth and Dan Lewandowski. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Lewandowski, Elizabeth J., 1960– The complete costume dictionary / Elizabeth J. Lewandowski ; illustrations by Dan Lewandowski. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references. ISBN 978-0-8108-4004-1 (cloth : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-0-8108-7785-6 (ebook) 1. Clothing and dress—Dictionaries. I. Title. GT507.L49 2011 391.003—dc22 2010051944 ϱ ™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992. Printed in the United States of America For Dan. Without him, I would be a lesser person. It is the fate of those who toil at the lower employments of life, to be rather driven by the fear of evil, than attracted by the prospect of good; to be exposed to censure, without hope of praise; to be disgraced by miscarriage or punished for neglect, where success would have been without applause and diligence without reward. -
A History of the French Revolution Through the Lens of Fashion, Culture, and Identity Bithy R
Bucknell University Bucknell Digital Commons Honors Theses Student Theses Spring 2012 The oM dernity of la Mode: a History of the French Revolution Through the Lens of Fashion, Culture, and Identity Bithy R. Goodman Bucknell University Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.bucknell.edu/honors_theses Part of the History Commons Recommended Citation Goodman, Bithy R., "The odeM rnity of la Mode: a History of the French Revolution Through the Lens of Fashion, Culture, and Identity" (2012). Honors Theses. 123. https://digitalcommons.bucknell.edu/honors_theses/123 This Honors Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Student Theses at Bucknell Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Honors Theses by an authorized administrator of Bucknell Digital Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. i ii iii Acknowledgments I would like to thank my adviser, David Del Testa, for his dedication to history as a subject and to my pursuits within this vast field. His passion and constant question of “So what?” has inspired me to think critically and passionately. Furthermore, he has helped me to always face the task of history with a sense of humor. Thank you to my secondary advisor and mentor, Paula Davis, who has always encouraged me to develop my own point of view. She has helped to me to recognize that my point of view is significant; for, having something to say, in whatever medium, is a creative process. Thank you to the History, Theater, and English Departments, which have jointly given me the confidence to question and provided me a vehicle through which to articulate and answer these questions. -
Operational Definitions
Operational Definitions The operational definitions that follow are intended to aid the reader in understanding the review of literature, particularly those sections pertaining to dress. The definitions were gathered through review of literature, as well as analysis of the poetry. Definitions that are marked with an asterisk indicate that they were mentioned in the poetry that was analyzed. Arisaid – a long garment reaching from neck to ankles, pleated and fastened at the breast with a large brooch or buckle, and belted at the waist; worn by Scottish Highland women (Bain, 1954; Stewart, 1974). Balloon hat –a hat style that women wore after 1740; also known as a lunardi (Maxwell & Hutchison, 1958). *Belted plaid – a Scottish Highland male garment created from a piece of tartan two yards in width and six yards in length. A man would center the plaid over a belt laid on the ground; he would then pleat the lower section of the plaid, while leaving the side and upper sections unpleated. The belt was fastened at the waist and the unpleated upper section of the plaid was thrown over one shoulder and held in place with a brooch. Also called a breacan-feile (Bain, 1954; Wilson, 1990). Bicorne hat – man’s hat of the Napoleonic era in shape of a crescent, with front and back brims pressed against each other making points on either side. Frequently trimmed with a cockade (Calasibetta, 1998). *Bonnet – headcovering for women, children, and infants usually fitting over back and top of head and tying with strings under chin. Bonnets were first worn in the Middle Ages. -
Fashion,Costume,And Culture
FCC_TP_V3_930 3/5/04 3:57 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V3_930 3/5/04 3:57 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 3: European Culture from the Renaissance to the Modern3 Era SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos. -
Troops of Nassau and Westphalia
The Napoleon Series The German and Dutch Troops in Spain Chapter 3 Part II: Troops of Nassau and Westphalia By: Richard Tennant Uniforms Nassau Infantry The jacket was dark green with black collar and cuffs with green turnbacks all edged yellow. Note the style of the cuff with the piping along the upper edge and underneath the opening; at the angle of the piping there was a single button with another on the sleeve on a similar line. The jacket was single breasted, cut-away slightly above the waist to reveal the waistcoat; these were white for a while after 1808 and then dark green with yellow piping. Grey breeches with below-the-knee black gaiters gave way after a while to dark green trousers, over short black (or grey) gaiters, with yellow side- stripes and thigh-knot s (Hungarian knots). The Fusiliers had black shoulder straps (some sources, green) piped in yellow and fastened with a small button near the collar. 2nd Nassau Infantry Regiment in 1809 by Richard Knŏtel (Courtesy of the Antony Broughton Collection) © 1995 – 2018 The Napoleon Series They had French -styled shakoes without cords (although some sources mention white cords) but with brass straps, a black cockade and a plume "a flamme" of the colour of the company (1st yellow, 2nd white, 3rd light blue, 4th black); the brass plague was in the shape of a trophy of arms with the regimental number set in a white-metal centre circle. Brass buttons and either no sword knots or fawn. French-style badges of rank with red stripes for corporals.