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M7132 >> MISSES’ JACKETS

02 FABRIC & SIZE CHART

04 CUTTING LAYOUTS 07 PATTERN MARKINGS 08 GLOSSARY 09 SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

SKILL LEVEL: EASY M7132 >> FABRIC AND SIZE CHARTS

Find the Perfect Fit!

SUGGESTED FABRICS: M7132C>> Challis,C Crepes, Crepe de Chine, Linen.

3 3 1

2 2 2 2 1 2 2 2 2 1

2 2 2 2 2 A B

3 3 2

3 3 1 2

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

1 1

A B

FABRIC AND SIZE CHARTS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 2 M7132 >> FABRIC AND SIZE CHARTS

CHARTS

YARDAGE CHARTS SIZES XS S M L XL XXL (4-6) (8-10) (12-14) (16-18) (20-22) (24-26) A - 45", 60"*** - 11/8 yds. CONTRAST 1A - 45", 60"*** - 11/8 yds. CONTRAST 2A - 45", 60"*** - 11/8 yds. CONTRAST 3A - 45", 60"*** - 3/4 yd. B - 45", 60"*** - 11/4 yds. CONTRAST 1B - 45", 60"*** - 11/4 yds. CONTRAST 2B 45"*** 11/4 11/4 11/4 13/4 13/4 13/4 yds. 60"*** 11/8 11/8 11/8 11/8 11/8 11/8 yds. FUSIBLE INTERFACING A, B - 18", 20" - 11/2 yds.

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS SIZES XS S M L XL XXL (4-6) (8-10) (12-14) (16-18) (20-22) (24-26) MEASUREMENT AT BUSTLINE VIEW A, B 40 42 451/2 491/2 531/2 571/2 in. MEASUREMENT AT HIPLINE VIEW A, B 39 41 441/2 481/2 521/2 561/2 in. BACK LENGTH FROM BASE OF NECK VIEW A, B 291/2 30 301/2 31 311/2 32 in.

BODY MEASUREMENTS SIZES XS S M L XL XXL (4-6) (8-10) (12-14) (16-18) (20-22) (24-26) BUST 291/2-301/2 311/2-321/2 34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48 in. WAIST 22-23 24-25 261/2-28 30-32 34-37 39-411/2 in. HIP 311/2-321/2 331/2-341/2 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50 in. BACK WAIST LENGTH 151/4-151/2 153/4-16 161/4-161/2 163/4-17 171/4-171/2 173/4-18 in.

FABRIC AND SIZE CHARTS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 3 M7132 >> CUTTING LAYOUTS

Your printed tile pieces should be assembled before you move on to this step!

PIECES (11)

JACKET A, B 1 FRONT 2 YOKE BACK 11 PATTERN PIECES 11 PIEZAS DE PATRON 3 BACK 2 4 BACK FACING 4 5 11 B 9B 5 FRONT BAND 1 8B 3 6 UPPER SLEEVE 7 LOWER SLEEVE 6

8 UPPER RIGHT FRONT B 7 10 B 9 LOWER RIGHT FRONT B 10 UPPER RIGHT BACK B 11 LOWER RIGHT BACK B

CUTTING AND MARKING >> SHRINK FABRIC if not labeled pre-shrunk. Press. >> CIRCLE LAYOUT for View, Size, Fabric Width. >> Use WITH NAP layout for fabrics with one-way designs, nap, pile or surface shading. Because most knits have surface shading, a with nap layout is used. >> For DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITH FOLD), fold fabric with right sides together. B >> *DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITHOUT FOLD), for fabrics with nap, fold fabric A crosswise, right sides together. Mark as shown. Cut along crosswise fold of fabric (A). Turn upper layer 180° so arrows go in same direction and place over lower layer, right sides together (B). >> For SINGLE THICKNESS, place fabric right side up. (For Fur Pile fabrics, place pile side down.)

>> Before CUTTING, place all pieces on fabric according to layout. Pin. (Layouts show approximate position of pattern pieces; position may vary according to your pattern size.) >> Cut accurately, cutting notches outward. >> Before removing pattern, TRANSFER MARKINGS and lines of construction to WRONG SIDE of fabric, using Pin and Chalk Pencil method or Tracing Paper and Dressmaker Wheel. Markings needed on right side of fabric should be thread traced. NOTE: Broken-line boxes (a! b! c!) in layouts respresent pieces cut by measurements provided. >> Prewash your fabric using a method that’s suitable for the fabric type. >> Fold fabric with right sides together, matching SELVAGES. >> Pin your pattern pieces to the fabric as shown below and cut them out using a sharp pair of dressmaker’s shears.

CUTTING LAYOUTS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 4 M7132 >> CUTTING LAYOUTS

JACKET A CONTRAST 3 A USE PIECES: 1, 3 (YOKE BACKS, BACK FACING & UPPER SLEEVES) 45”,60” (115,150 CM) USE PIECES: 2, 4, 6 WITH OR WITHOUT NAP 45”,60” (115,150 CM) ALL SIZES WITH OR WITHOUT NAP ALL SIZES SELVAGE SELVAGES

2 3 6

4 1 FOLD

SELVAGE JACKET45" */** m7132 CONTRASTB 3 [A] Sz XXL P−1007 45" */** m7132 JACKET [A] Sz XXL P−1001 CONTRAST 1 A USE PIECES: 1, 2, 4, 6, 11 (RIGHT FRONT & BACK) 45”,60” (115,150 CM) WITH OR WITHOUT NAP USE PIECES: 1, 3 ALL SIZES 45”,60” (115,150 CM) WITH OR WITHOUT NAP SELVAGE ALL SIZES 1 SELVAGE

4 2

1 6 11

3 SELVAGE

SELVAGE CONTRAST45" */** m7132 JACKET 1 [B] B Sz XXL P−1010 (UPPER RIGHT FRONT, LEFT UPPER SLEEVE & LEFT BACK) CONTRAST45" */** m7132 CONTRAST 2 A 1 [A] Sz XXL P−1003 (FRONT BANDS & LOWER SLEEVES) USE PIECES: 3, 6, 8 USE PIECES: 5, 7 45”,60” (115,150 CM) 45”,60” (115,150 CM) WITH OR WITHOUT NAP WITH OR WITHOUT NAP ALL SIZES ALL SIZES SELVAGE SELVAGE 8

7 7 6

3 SELVAGE 5 FOLD SELVAGE

45" */** m7132 CONTRAST 2 [A] Sz XXL P−1005 CUTTING LAYOUTS 45" */** m7132 CONTRAST MCCALL'S1 [B] Sz XXL >> P−1012 PDF PATTERNS 5 M7132 >> CUTTING LAYOUTS

60” (150 CM) CONTRAST 2 B WITH OR WITHOUT NAP (LEFT YOKE BACK, UPPER RIGHT BACK, LOWER SLEEVES, ALL SIZES FRONT BANDS & LOWER RIGHT FRONT) SELVAGE USE PIECES: 2, 5, 7, 9, 10 45” (115 CM) 9 7 WITH OR WITHOUT NAP SIZES XS-S-M 2 SELVAGE 7 7 7 10 SELVAGE 5 9 2 10 FOLD SELVAGE 5

FOLD 60" */** m7132 CONTRAST 2 [B] Sz XXL P−1020

45” (115 CM) WITH45" */** OR m7132WITHOUT CONTRAST NAP 2 [B] Sz M P−1016 SIZES L-XL-XXL FUSIBLE INTERFACING A,B SELVAGE USE PIECES: 4, 5 18”,20” (46,51 CM)

9 ALL SIZES 7 7 SELVAGES

10 5 2 4 SELVAGE FOLD 5 FOLD 18" ** m7132 FUSIBLE INTERFACING [A,B] Sz XXL P−1022

45" */** m7132 CONTRAST 2 [B] Sz XXL P−1014

CUTTING LAYOUTS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 6 M7132 >> PATTERN MARKINGS

GRAIN LINES to place on SYMBOLS straight grain of for matching fabric parallel to seams and selvage or fold construction details

FOLD LINE to place on fold of fabric

LENGTHEN & SHORTEN LINES two parallel lines where you make the pattern piece longer or shorter NOTCHES single or double triangular markings used for matching pieces together

TO SHORTEN to crease along adjustment line; make a fold half the amound needed; tape in place

SEAM ALLOWANCE the measurement used to turn up your hem TO LENGTHEN to slash between adjustment lines; spread amount as needed, keeping MEASUREMENTS edges parallel; indicates Bustline, tape over paper Waistline, Hip or Biceps; refers to circumference of finishined garment

PATTERN MARKINGS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 7 M7132 >> GLOSSARY

The following terms appear in BOLD TYPE throughout your sewing instructions!

>> EASESTITCH >> SLIPSTITCH Stitch along seamline, using long machine stltches. Slide needle through a folded edge, then pick up a Pull thread ends when adjusting to fit. thread of underneath fabric.

NOTE: For sleeve caps, make a second row of long machine stitches 1/4” (6mm) away in seam allowance. >> STAYSTITCH for more control. Stitch 1/8” (3mm) from seamline in seam allowance (usually 1/2” (13mm) from raw edge).

>> FINISH Stitch 1/4” (6mm) from raw edge and finish with one >> TOPSTITCH of the following: (1) Pink OR (2) Overcast OR (3) On outside, stitch 1/4” (6mm) from edge, seam or Turn in along stitching and stitch close to fold OR (4) previous stitching, using presser foot as guide, or Overlock. stitch where indicated in instructions.

OPTIONAL FOR HEMS: Apply Seam Binding. >> UNDERSTITCH Open out facing or underside of garment; stitch to >> REINFORCE seam allowance close to seam. Stitch along seamline where indicated in sewing instructions, using small machine stitches.

GLOSSARY MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 8 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

SEAM ALLOWANCES: >> Use 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowances unless otherwise indicated. >> Pin or baste seams, right side together, matching notches. Fit garment before stitching major seams. >> Press seam allowances flat; then open unless otherwise stated. Clip where necessary so they lie flat.

PATCHWORK JACKET

The inspiration for this open patchwork jacket came from a trip to Nashville, TN! I found an amazing vintage store with so many cool lightweight kimono jackets and some patchwork inspiration that I loved. I decided to combine these ideas. This is such a fun and easy fitted style to make. This is the ultimate piece to make a boring outfit interesting. Wear a monochromatic top and pants underneath this patchwork beauty!

Style Tips

This design is all about the fabric choices. The key is to mix large and small-scale prints. Pick a brown and black (dark) color theme or cream and pastels (light and bright) theme for a more summery look. Decorative or straight TOPSTITCHING where the panels come together is a cool detail to add to a traditional patchwork design.

Sewing Tips

1. When planning out your fabric placement, I found it was helpful to cut a swatch of each fabric and staple it to the color map, then label the swatches: main fabric, contrast 1, contrast 2 and/or contrast 3 according to your preferred placement. Also, write the appropriate view letter on all of your pattern pieces and sort the same letters together before you cut! Believe me, even then, I managed to cut out some pieces in the wrong print. Working with so many pieces can get confusing, so take your time.

2. When sewing the front bands and the back facing together at the shoulder, if the widths are not even, just trim to be even, this will look cleaner on the inside.

3. When all is FINISHED, there are a few little stitching extras that will secure your jacket and make it look more professional:

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 9 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

a. UNDERSTITCH your back facing to the seam allowance. This will make sure your back facing will roll to the inside of your jacket.

b. Seam bind or serge inside seam allowances on this unstructured jacket for a clean inside.

c. Bar-tack your rolled cuff at the top edge to keep it from flipping down.

d. I like long SPI (stitches per inch), about 5-6 for the bottom hem FINISHING.

e. TOPSTITCH each connecting panel, about 1/8” (3mm) on either side of seam. (This will hold down the seam allowances on the inside too!)

Happy Sewing

FITTING INSTRUCTIONS

Getting the Tissue Ready to Fit:

Measure the high bust (below shoulder blades in back and above bust in front) - a snug measurement. Use this measurement as your “bust” when buying a pattern. If between sizes, choose the smaller size.

Because I want you to LOVE what you sew, I am including Palmer/Pletsch fit in my designs. It is 4 easy steps! If the tissue doesn’t quite fit, you can make your alterations using the easy lines printed on the tissue.

1. Prepare tissue: Trim pattern, tape, clip curves.

2. Try on tissue.

3. Try on altered tissue.

4. Pin fit fabric and try on.

Each tissue will have all the possible alterations lines, but we will address the 4 most common in each guide. Find others in the Palmer/Pletsch book Fit For Real People.

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 10 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS Preparing Tissue:

Trim around the tissue OUTSIDE the black cutting line for your size. Press tissue with a dry iron set 2 at WOOL setting. The only place you need to REINFORCE with tape to prevent tearing is on the curves. 1 With tissue RIGHT SIDE UP, tape the armhole curve to prevent the tissue from tearing when 3 you try it on. (When you press tissue next time, press from the WRONG side so you won’t melt the tape. Make this a habit!). Then clip your curve so it can open and spread to the shape of your body.

Tug lightly on tissue to see if it is taped securely.

TISSUE FITTING IS A NO GUESS METHOD

Here are the most common alterations you will have to do to any top pattern.

1. High Round Back: slight gap Spot it! Front neckline is tight and the back puffiness at base neckline is low and gaps. of back neck BASE ABULTADA DEL ESCOTE DE LA ESPALDA LIGERA ABERTIRA

What to do? Raise the back! Take the back pattern piece and cut at the high round back adjustment line, which is about 1” (2.5cm) below the neckline. Cut from the center back to the armhole seam. Cut the seam allowance to the seam to form your “hinge”. Raise the upper section from the center back about 1/4”-3/8” (6mm-1cm) so it looks like a sliver of a triangle. Fill it in with tissue.

Now try the tissue back on to check the fit.

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 11 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

2. Forward Shoulder:

Spot it! If your clothes fall back off your HOMBRO HACIA ADELANTE shoulders, you probably have forward shoulders. The shoulder at the armhole is not in the middle of your arm. Another clue is if you have a high round back, it is usually accompanied by a forward shoulder adjustment. Alter for the high LA COSTURA DEL HOMBRO DEBE ESTAR AQUI round back first.

What to do? This one has no lines printed on the pattern. Simply pivot the shoulder seam forward. Raise it at the armhole on the back pattern piece, lower it on the front. Don’t move it at the neck edge.

Don’t worry about changing anything on the sleeve. Just set the sleeve in as you normally would, matching the circle to the new shoulder seam and it will hang perfectly.

3. Sway Back:

Spot it! You will see excess fabric at the center back or the hem is longer in the back than in the front and side seams swing forward.

What to do? Pinch a horizontal tuck at the center back until the hem is even. Now take off the tissue and use the alteration lines to make the horizontal dart tuck. If the back is more than one piece, tuck each one separately following the lines.

What to do? Once the pattern is on, measure the distance from the pattern’s center front to yours. This is the amount you will need to widen.

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 12 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS FULL BUST ALTERATION

Step 1: Cut on Line 1 from the lower edge, up to, but not through, the armhole seam. Steps 1,2,3

Step 2: Cut Line 2, up to, but not through, Line 1, leaving a tiny hinge.

Step 3: Pin the right side of the pattern to cardboard to keep it anchored. Pull the pieces 1 apart along Line 1 to the amount you determined 2 during tissue fitting. Keep the long edges of Line 1 parallel. To do this, as the armhole goes up, you will have to drop the side panel down, opening up Line 2 and forming a deeper dart. When 3 positioned correctly, anchor the two side sections with pins on all edges.

Step 4: Cut Line 3 and drop down until the bottom edges of the pattern sections are even Step 4 and anchor with pins.

1 2

3 3

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 13 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

Fill in the openings with tissue on the Step 5: Step 5 wrong side and tape in place, don’t remove pins until all pieces are secured.

You should now have deeper darts, more width across the front and a higher armhole that won’t gap after the dart is sewn!

SEWING DIRECTIONS JACKET A, B NOTE: After each seam is stitched, encase all visible raw edges of seam allowances with double fold bias tape, or FINISH. To encase, place narrower edge on outside. Stitch close to inner edge, through all thicknesses.

NOTE: FINISHing for seams will not be shown in the following illustrations.

NOTE: The first view mentioned will be illustrated unless otherwise indicated.

INTERFACING

Fuse INTERFACING to wrong side of each matching FABRIC section, following manufacturer’s instructions. 4 4

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 14 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS FRONT AND BACK

For View A: Stitch dart in FRONT (1). Press fold of dart downward.

View B:

Stitch dart in UPPER RIGHT FRONT (8) and (LEFT) FRONT (1). Press fold of darts downward.

1 8

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 15 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

Stitch LOWER RIGHT FRONT (9) to upper right front, right sides together, matching notches.

For View A: Pin YOKE BACK (2) to BACK (3), right sides together, matching notches and squares. Stitch. 2

View B:

Stitch UPPER RIGHT BACK (10) to LOWER RIGHT BACK (11), right sides together, matching notches. 10

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 16 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

Pin YOKE BACK (2) to (LEFT) BACK (3) and right back, right sides together, matching notches and squares. Stitch. 2 2

Views A, B:

Pin back sections, right sides together. Stitch center back seam.

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 17 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

FINISH lower edge of BACK FACING (4). Pin facing to back, right sides together, matching centers. Stitch neck edge. Trim seam allowances. 4

UNDERSTITCH facing.

Turn facing to inside. Press.

Stitch back to front at sides.

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 18 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS HEM

Turn up a 1-1/2” (3.8cm) hem on lower edge of jacket. Baste close to fold. Turn under 1/4” (6mm) on raw edge, easing in fullness if necessary. Baste hem in place close to upper edge. Press.

TOPSTITCH hem along upper basting.

FRONT BAND

STAYSTITCH notched edge of FRONT BAND (5) above waist.

Press under 5/8” (1.5cm) on long unnotched edge of band. Trim pressed-under edge to 3/8” (1cm).

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 19 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

Pin band to front, right sides together, matching notches and large circles to fold of hem, clipping band where necessary. Stitch front edges. Trim seam allowances. Press seam allowances toward band.

Fold lower edge of band on foldline, right sides together. Stitch across lower edge of band. Trim seam allowances.

Turn band right side out, folding on foldline. Press.

SLIPSTITCH pressed-under edge of band over seam. Baste shoulder edges together.

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 20 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS SHOULDER SEAMS

Open out back facing at shoulders. Pin front to back at shoulders, matching notches and having front band at facing seam. Baste.

Turn back facing to outside (over front). Pin. Stitch entire shoulder seam. Trim seam allowances.

Turn back facing to inside again, turning seam allowances toward back. Press.

SLEEVE

EASESTITCH cap of UPPER SLEEVE (6) between small circles. 6

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 21 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

Stitch LOWER SLEEVE (7) to upper sleeve, right sides together, matching notches.

Stitch sleeve seam, matching seams.

Turn lower edge of sleeve to inside along hemline. Baste close to fold. FINISH raw edge. Hand-sew upper edge in place. Press.

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 22 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

To form cuff, turn lower edge of sleeve to outside along foldline. Press lightly. Tack at seams.

With right sides together, pin sleeve into armhole edge, matching notches, underarm seams, small circles and large circle to shoulder seam. Adjust ease. Baste. Stitch. Stitch again 1/4” (6mm) away in seam allowances. Trim close to second stitching. Press seam allowances flat. Turn seam allowances toward sleeve.

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 23 Congrats!

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