M7132 >> MISSES’ JACKETS 02 FABRIC & SIZE CHART 04 CUTTING LAYOUTS 07 PATTERN MARKINGS 08 GLOSSARY 09 SEWING INSTRUCTIONS SKILL LEVEL: EASY M7132 >> FABRIC AND SIZE CHARTS Find the Perfect Fit! SUGGESTED FABRICS: M7132C> Challis,C Crepes, Crepe de Chine, Linen. 3 3 1 2 2 2 2 1 2 2 2 2 1 2 2 2 2 2 A B 3 3 2 3 3 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 A B FABRIC AND SIZE CHARTS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 2 M7132 >> FABRIC AND SIZE CHARTS CHARTS YARDAGE CHARTS SIZES XS S M L XL XXL (4-6) (8-10) (12-14) (16-18) (20-22) (24-26) A - 45", 60"*** - 11/8 yds. CONTRAST 1A - 45", 60"*** - 11/8 yds. CONTRAST 2A - 45", 60"*** - 11/8 yds. CONTRAST 3A - 45", 60"*** - 3/4 yd. B - 45", 60"*** - 11/4 yds. CONTRAST 1B - 45", 60"*** - 11/4 yds. CONTRAST 2B 45"*** 11/4 11/4 11/4 13/4 13/4 13/4 yds. 60"*** 11/8 11/8 11/8 11/8 11/8 11/8 yds. FUSIBLE INTERFACING A, B - 18", 20" - 11/2 yds. FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS SIZES XS S M L XL XXL (4-6) (8-10) (12-14) (16-18) (20-22) (24-26) MEASUREMENT AT BUSTLINE VIEW A, B 40 42 451/2 491/2 531/2 571/2 in. MEASUREMENT AT HIPLINE VIEW A, B 39 41 441/2 481/2 521/2 561/2 in. BACK LENGTH FROM BASE OF NECK VIEW A, B 291/2 30 301/2 31 311/2 32 in. BODY MEASUREMENTS SIZES XS S M L XL XXL (4-6) (8-10) (12-14) (16-18) (20-22) (24-26) BUST 291/2-301/2 311/2-321/2 34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48 in. WAIST 22-23 24-25 261/2-28 30-32 34-37 39-411/2 in. HIP 311/2-321/2 331/2-341/2 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50 in. BACK WAIST LENGTH 151/4-151/2 153/4-16 161/4-161/2 163/4-17 171/4-171/2 173/4-18 in. FABRIC AND SIZE CHARTS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 3 M7132 >> CUTTING LAYOUTS Your printed tile pieces should be assembled before you move on to this step! PIECES (11) JACKET A, B 1 FRONT 2 YOKE BACK 11 PATTERN PIECES 11 PIEZAS DE PATRON 3 BACK 2 4 BACK FACING 4 5 11 B 9B 5 FRONT BAND 1 8B 3 6 UPPER SLEEVE 7 LOWER SLEEVE 6 8 UPPER RIGHT FRONT B 7 10 B 9 LOWER RIGHT FRONT B 10 UPPER RIGHT BACK B 11 LOWER RIGHT BACK B CUTTING AND MARKING > SHRINK FABRIC if not labeled pre-shrunk. Press. > CIRCLE LAYOUT for View, Size, Fabric Width. > Use WITH NAP layout for fabrics with one-way designs, nap, pile or surface shading. Because most knits have surface shading, a with nap layout is used. > For DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITH FOLD), fold fabric with right sides together. B > *DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITHOUT FOLD), for fabrics with nap, fold fabric A crosswise, right sides together. Mark as shown. Cut along crosswise fold of fabric (A). Turn upper layer 180° so arrows go in same direction and place over lower layer, right sides together (B). > For SINGLE THICKNESS, place fabric right side up. (For Fur Pile fabrics, place pile side down.) > Before CUTTING, place all pieces on fabric according to layout. Pin. (Layouts show approximate position of pattern pieces; position may vary according to your pattern size.) > Cut accurately, cutting notches outward. > Before removing pattern, TRANSFER MARKINGS and lines of construction to WRONG SIDE of fabric, using Pin and Chalk Pencil method or Tracing Paper and Dressmaker Wheel. Markings needed on right side of fabric should be thread traced. NOTE: Broken-line boxes (a! b! c!) in layouts respresent pieces cut by measurements provided. > Prewash your fabric using a method that’s suitable for the fabric type. > Fold fabric with right sides together, matching SELVAGES. > Pin your pattern pieces to the fabric as shown below and cut them out using a sharp pair of dressmaker’s shears. CUTTING LAYOUTS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 4 M7132 >> CUTTING LAYOUTS JACKET A CONTRAST 3 A USE PIECES: 1, 3 (YOKE BACKS, BACK FACING & UPPER SLEEVES) 45”,60” (115,150 CM) USE PIECES: 2, 4, 6 WITH OR WITHOUT NAP 45”,60” (115,150 CM) ALL SIZES WITH OR WITHOUT NAP ALL SIZES SELVAGE SELVAGES 2 3 6 4 1 FOLD SELVAGE 45" */** m7132 CONTRAST 3 [A] Sz XXL P−1007 JACKET B 45" */** m7132 JACKET [A] Sz XXL P−1001 CONTRAST 1 A USE PIECES: 1, 2, 4, 6, 11 (RIGHT FRONT & BACK) 45”,60” (115,150 CM) WITH OR WITHOUT NAP USE PIECES: 1, 3 ALL SIZES 45”,60” (115,150 CM) WITH OR WITHOUT NAP SELVAGE ALL SIZES 1 SELVAGE 4 2 1 6 11 3 SELVAGE SELVAGE 45" */** m7132 JACKET [B] Sz XXL P−1010 CONTRAST 1 B (UPPER RIGHT FRONT, LEFT UPPER SLEEVE & LEFT BACK) CONTRAST45" */** m7132 CONTRAST 2 A 1 [A] Sz XXL P−1003 (FRONT BANDS & LOWER SLEEVES) USE PIECES: 3, 6, 8 USE PIECES: 5, 7 45”,60” (115,150 CM) 45”,60” (115,150 CM) WITH OR WITHOUT NAP WITH OR WITHOUT NAP ALL SIZES ALL SIZES SELVAGE SELVAGE 8 7 7 6 3 SELVAGE 5 FOLD SELVAGE 45" */** m7132 CONTRAST 2 [A] Sz XXL P−1005 CUTTING LAYOUTS 45" */** m7132 CONTRAST MCCALL'S1 [B] Sz XXL >> P−1012 PDF PATTERNS 5 M7132 >> CUTTING LAYOUTS 60” (150 CM) CONTRAST 2 B WITH OR WITHOUT NAP (LEFT YOKE BACK, UPPER RIGHT BACK, LOWER SLEEVES, ALL SIZES FRONT BANDS & LOWER RIGHT FRONT) SELVAGE USE PIECES: 2, 5, 7, 9, 10 45” (115 CM) 9 7 WITH OR WITHOUT NAP SIZES XS-S-M 2 SELVAGE 7 7 7 10 SELVAGE 5 9 2 10 FOLD SELVAGE 5 FOLD 60" */** m7132 CONTRAST 2 [B] Sz XXL P−1020 45” (115 CM) WITH45" */** OR m7132WITHOUT CONTRAST NAP 2 [B] Sz M P−1016 SIZES L-XL-XXL FUSIBLE INTERFACING A,B SELVAGE USE PIECES: 4, 5 18”,20” (46,51 CM) 9 ALL SIZES 7 7 SELVAGES 10 5 2 4 SELVAGE FOLD 5 FOLD 18" ** m7132 FUSIBLE INTERFACING [A,B] Sz XXL P−1022 45" */** m7132 CONTRAST 2 [B] Sz XXL P−1014 CUTTING LAYOUTS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 6 M7132 >> PATTERN MARKINGS GRAIN LINES to place on SYMBOLS straight grain of for matching fabric parallel to seams and selvage or fold construction details FOLD LINE to place on fold of fabric LENGTHEN & SHORTEN LINES two parallel lines where you make the pattern piece longer or shorter NOTCHES single or double triangular markings used for matching pieces together TO SHORTEN to crease along adjustment line; make a fold half the amound needed; tape in place SEAM ALLOWANCE the measurement used to turn up your hem TO LENGTHEN to slash between adjustment lines; spread amount as needed, keeping MEASUREMENTS edges parallel; indicates Bustline, tape over paper Waistline, Hip or Biceps; refers to circumference of finishined garment PATTERN MARKINGS MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 7 M7132 >> GLOSSARY The following terms appear in BOLD TYPE throughout your sewing instructions! > EASESTITCH > SLIPSTITCH Stitch along seamline, using long machine stltches. Slide needle through a folded edge, then pick up a Pull thread ends when adjusting to fit. thread of underneath fabric. NOTE: For sleeve caps, make a second row of long machine stitches 1/4” (6mm) away in seam allowance. > STAYSTITCH for more control. Stitch 1/8” (3mm) from seamline in seam allowance (usually 1/2” (13mm) from raw edge). > FINISH Stitch 1/4” (6mm) from raw edge and finish with one > TOPSTITCH of the following: (1) Pink OR (2) Overcast OR (3) On outside, stitch 1/4” (6mm) from edge, seam or Turn in along stitching and stitch close to fold OR (4) previous stitching, using presser foot as guide, or Overlock. stitch where indicated in instructions. OPTIONAL FOR HEMS: Apply Seam Binding. > UNDERSTITCH Open out facing or underside of garment; stitch to > REINFORCE seam allowance close to seam. Stitch along seamline where indicated in sewing instructions, using small machine stitches. GLOSSARY MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 8 M7132 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS SEAM ALLOWANCES: > Use 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowances unless otherwise indicated. > Pin or baste seams, right side together, matching notches. Fit garment before stitching major seams. > Press seam allowances flat; then open unless otherwise stated. Clip where necessary so they lie flat. PATCHWORK JACKET The inspiration for this open patchwork jacket came from a trip to Nashville, TN! I found an amazing vintage store with so many cool lightweight kimono jackets and some patchwork inspiration that I loved. I decided to combine these ideas. This is such a fun and easy fitted style to make. This is the ultimate piece to make a boring outfit interesting. Wear a monochromatic top and pants underneath this patchwork beauty! Style Tips This design is all about the fabric choices. The key is to mix large and small-scale prints. Pick a brown and black (dark) color theme or cream and pastels (light and bright) theme for a more summery look. Decorative or straight TOPSTITCHING where the panels come together is a cool detail to add to a traditional patchwork design. Sewing Tips 1. When planning out your fabric placement, I found it was helpful to cut a swatch of each fabric and staple it to the color map, then label the swatches: main fabric, contrast 1, contrast 2 and/or contrast 3 according to your preferred placement.