RAMPUR & LUCKNOW – ROHILKHAND & AWADH
EMPEROR’S EMBROIDERY – HANDCRAFTED ART BY TRADITIONAL ARTISTS
The artistic rivalry between the Nawab ruled Rohilkhand & Awadh during the 18th & the 19th Centuries, lead to the creation of several stylized gates & buildings in Rampur & Lucknow.
Several of the buildings in Rampur have been built in the Indo-Sarcenic style of architecture, synthesizing elements from the Islamic, Hindu and Victorian Gothic. These buildings were designed and built by W.C. Wright, the Chief Engineer, chosen to carry out an extensive building program in the city by Nawab Hamid Ali Khan (1896-1930).
Prominent amongst these is the regal Raza Library with its treasure of old manuscripts. This building was earlier the main palace and was known as “Hamid Manzil”. The Raza Library, Jama Masjid & Moti masjid of Rampur have a design continuity in the “Acanthus Leaf” motif, which is showcased in this collection. This ornamental pattern, inspired by the deeply cut leaves of the Acanthus Group of plants found in the Mediterranean, has been widely used in Greek, Roman, Byzantine & Gothic ornamentation.
Other patterns in this collection are inspired by the fading designs of the Hamid & Wright’s gates, which stand amidst the busy bazaar streets leading into the old town. There are very few old photographs of Rampur in the form of an album presented to Lord Curzon, the Viceroy of India, by the Nawab in June 1905, to commemorate his visit to the city. Few other old photos are in the Marquess of Reading Collection, 1911 at the British Library. It has been extremely difficult to clearly photograph the designs remaining on these gates today, and from these photographs, the artisans drew out the “Khaaka” or the scaled up design on tracing paper, which would them be transferred on the cloth being embroidered.
The Shia Nawabs of Lucknow constructed several grand palaces, Imambaras and gates including Rumi, Kaiser Bagh & Hossainabad darwazas. The decorative floral, geometric and fish pattern designs on these structures are highlighted in this collection. The spirit of Nawabi Lucknow was captured to perfection in the film “Shatranj ke Khiladi”, which too is represented in this collection.
This exquisite collection of handcrafted utility home products comprises of curtains and cushion covers. The decorative exteriors in the architecture of Rampur & Lucknow have been the design inspiration for this collection. The patterns have been hand embroidered using matted glass beads or “Cut Dana” by the traditional zardozi technique on net fabric. The products have been hand embroidered in the old quarter of Rampur, Uttar Pradesh, a centre for zari-zardozi embroidery since the time of the Nawabs. This ancient craft finds a mention in Vedic literature as well.
As part of this project, the craftspersons adapted their skills to recreate a part of the heritage of their city on new products & concepts. This “City Design” project was a way to connect local artists with their own roots & local heritage, improving their sense of identity, well-being and sustained livelihood.
I THE RAMPUR COLLECTION:
1. .. Jama Masjid Acanthus Leaf Cushion Cover
Product Code: JMCC 01 Size: 16”*16” Material: Net Fabric with satin lining, embroidered with glass beads Colour: Brown and Maroon, Grey and White, Black & White Each Cushion took 20-25 hours to embroider
2. Raza Library Acanthus Leaf Cushion Cover 1
Product Code: RLCC 01 Size: 16”*16” Material: Net Fabric with satin lining, embroidered with glass beads Colour: Brown and Maroon, Grey and White, Black & White Each Cushion took 15-20 hours to embroider
3. Raza Library Acanthus Leaf Cushion Cover 2
Product Code: RLCC 02 Size: 16”*16” Material: Net Fabric with satin lining, embroidered with glass beads Colour: Brown and Maroon, Grey and White, Black & White Each Cushion took 10-15 hours to embroider
4. Wright’s Gate Star Border Cushion Cover
Product Code: WGCC 01 Size: 16”*16” Material: Net Fabric with satin lining, embroidered with glass beads Colour: Brown and Maroon, Grey and White, Black & White Each Cushion took 15-20 hours to embroider
5. Wright’s Gate Floral Pattern Cushion Cover
Product Code: WGCC 02 Size: 16”*16” Material: Net Fabric with satin lining, embroidered with glass beads Colour: Brown and Maroon, Grey and White, Black & White Each Cushion took 20-25 hours to embroider
6. Wrights Gate Running Border Cushion Cover
Product Code: WGCC 03 Size: 16”*16” Material: Net Fabric with satin lining, embroidered with glass beads Colour: Brown and Maroon, Grey and White, Black & White Each Cushion took 10-12 hours to embroider
7. Pair of Wright’s Gate Floral Pattern & Hamid Gate Geometric Pattern Curtains
This pair of curtains is inspired by the design & layout of the Wright & Hamid Gates of Rampur. Each curtain took 25-30 hours to complete.
Product Code: WGHGC 01 Size: 240cm*145cm Material: Net Fabric embroidered with glass beads Colour: Brown and Maroon, Black & White
Photographs of the Wrights Gate & Hamid Gate from Lord Curzon’s presentation album, 1905
Design Details of the Wrights Gate & Hamid Gate as photographed at present
Net Sheer Curtains with designs of the gates embroidered using Glass Beads
II THE LUCKNOW COLLECTION
1. .. Rumi Darwaza Floral Motif Cushion Cover
Product Code: RDCC 01 Size: 16”*16” Material: Net Fabric with satin lining, embroidered with glass beads Colour: Black & White, Brown & Maroon, Grey & White Each Cushion took 10-15 hours to embroider
It is said that the famous Sufi poet Jelaluddin Rumi met Hazrat Shams al Tabriz, a wandering dervish, for the first time in the mid 13th century below a gate in the market place of Konya in Turkey. This meeting altered Rumi’s course of life and is considered as a “Grand event in the mystical evolution of the planet.” The bond they formed was everlasting – a powerful transcendent friendship that would flow through Rumi as his best loved ecstatic poetry. The Rumi Darwaza could perhaps have been built as a homage by the Shia Nawabs to this great Sufi poet and his meeting with his spiritual guide and friend Shams al Tabriz.
2. Rumi Darwaza Floral Border Cushion Cover
Product Code: RDCC 02 Size: 16”*16” Material: Net Fabric with satin lining, embroidered with glass beads Colour: Black & White, Brown & Maroon, Grey & White Each Cushion took 10-15 hours to embroider
3. Rumi Darwaza Geometric Pattern Cushion Cover
Product Code: RDCC 03 Size: 16”*16” Material: Net Fabric with satin lining, embroidered with glass beads Colour: Black & White, Brown & Maroon, Grey & White Each Cushion took 10-15 hours to embroider
This Cushion Cover is inspired by the geometric pattern on the clock tower across the Rumi Darwaza
4. Kaiser Bagh Lakhi Darwaza Fish Pattern Cushion Cover
Product Code: KBFCC 01 Size: 16”*16” Material: Net Fabric with satin lining, embroidered with glass beads Colour: Black & White, Brown & Maroon, Grey & White Each Cushion took 10-15 hours to embroider
This Cushion Cover is inspired by the fish motifs on the Lakhi Gates at the entrance to Kaiser Bagh, built during the reign of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah.
The twin fish motif existed even in the Indus Valley iconography. In Awadh, it became part of the royal insignia and a dominant decorative symbol in architecture and crafts. It is said that after being appointed the Governor of Awadh, Nawab Saadat Khan Burhan-ul-Mulk.on his way to Lucknow from Farukkhabad, was crossing the river Ganga and two fishes leaped into his lap. This was considered a good omen, coinciding with the beginning of the golden era of the history of Awadh.
Along with the twin fishes, Jal pari or mermaids were part of the decorative exterior of buildings during the rule of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, as can be seen on the Lakhi Gate at Kaiser Bagh.
5. Kaiser Bagh Lakhi Darwaza Floral Pattern Cushion Cover
Product Code: KBFCC 01 Size: 16”*16” Material: Net Fabric with satin lining, embroidered with glass beads Colour: Black & White, Brown & Maroon, Grey & White Each Cushion took 12-15 hours to embroider
6. Shatraj Ke Khiladi Cushion Cover
Product Code: SKKCC 01 Size: 16”*16” Material: Net Fabric with satin lining, embroidered with glass beads Colour: Black & White, Brown & Maroon, Grey & White Each Cushion took 10-12 hours to embroider
Inspired by Munshi Premchand’s story that was made into a film by Satyajit Ray in 1977, capturing the essence of Lucknow’s culture under Nawab Wajid Ali Shah on the eve of the 1857 rebellion.
7. Pair of Rumi Gate Floral Pattern & Lakhi Gate Fish Pattern Curtains
This pair of curtains is inspired by the design & layout of the Rumi & Lakhi Gates of Lucknow. Each curtain took 25-30 hours to complete.
Product Code: WGHGC 01 Size: 240cm*145cm Material: Net Fabric embroidered with glass beads Colour: Brown and Maroon, Black & White