Moscow’S Many Summer Terraces Best Places Can Beat the Pedestrian Bridge Behind the Cathedral 6 to Drink of Christ the Saviour for Fabulous Kremlin Views
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
102 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Arbat & Khamovniki ARBAT | INNER KHAMOVNIKI | OUTER KHAMOVNIKI Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Perusing the collec- 2 Wandering around 4 Strolling, shopping and tions at the Pushkin Mu- Novodevichy Convent & doing the cafe scene on the seum of Fine Arts (p 107 ), Cemetery (p 104 ), soaking historic ul Arbat. especially the incredible up five centuries of artistry 5 Marvelling at the os- array of Impressionist and and history. tentation and sheer size of post-Impressionist art in 3 Visiting the Rerikh the Cathedral of Christ the the Gallery of European & Museum (p 111 ) to uncover Saviour (p 111 ). American Art of the 19th & the fantastic world of this 20th Centuries. mystical artist. 01kmul Novy Arbat ab e# n 00.5milesSpasopeskovskaya pl at a o rb y k l A ka en u ul s h b n vc ARBAT e e r y 666666 66r n e s h p k b y e e S k s r a s Garden Ring # P a it 4 v p n n e a y as rm l a h Tar Ka o y t z b a g a b razh # r r e a 0000a p D ev V k o 3 k A s 0000000n y l Sivt y k u e r G 0000000 s s pe b v n o n # e 0000000 z Smolenskaya- e 1 L u e 0000000 t l z u Sennaya pl h 000K B o G r S l yansk n agarin u aya m y sky r m e ya ul p a 5#Ü# a S p k k o n s e e 666666 l 6666 e st h l pl Kievskogo e r hi c u n n aya ec e k s r P d evs Vokzala b i k P o tu K a l z y u h S n a a b K rs u k ul y ro y a a KHAMOVNIKI l p p ay k o er sk s t ev v k Ki o in t a s K s y k hi b o a y lk sk p o a R v e v a n 666666Maiden's bo 66r p 6y u Z e a o Field Z u u r sk g ul l bo n o T vs te k im k is s y l u b h u n r u c ZAMOSKVORECHIE b a a a l e a y l r n a e F P a k r s Y y n u ka i l er n u Iskusstv s d u l p ze l K in go l u y r Park v o u a sk r ym v P a y en e s a y a ol er b v k S a k b p a i y sk s O y n R va 666B v66v 66k 66l o s e pl Novodevichego o h a g g z y r o o vi ow e Monastyrya ir ir a c z P es k s m P N o h Bolshoy ya a s b k n o a y M a o Novodevichy h la e n s v ls t o a z s Pond M n a Gorky k B y a u y v r a Park o r k y p F 111 ch s a y n 111 s a k i l U v ls k r 111#æ u o o h p # ra m s y 2 o e m k 66666111666at fr o 66666u 6s P 111 v l E s in Do u m Neskuchny n 111 l o e u K Garden L 6666 For66 more detail of this66 area, see p 268 and p 270 A 103 Lonely Planet’s Explore: Arbat & Khamovniki Top Tip These two adjacent districts are an art-lover’s dream. Many of the Khamovniki Khamovniki is packed with world-class art museums museums stay open in the and smaller artist-dedicated galleries, not to mention evening one day per week. the elaborate Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. Depend- On Thursday, for example, ing how many stops you make, one might spend the the Pushkin Museum of Fine entire day in Inner Khamovniki, starting at the world- Arts and the Gallery of Euro- class Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts in the morning, then pean & American Art of the strolling up ul Prechistenka in the afternoon and drop- 19th & 20th Centuries stay ping into sights along the way. The Unesco-recognised open until 9pm, as does the Novodevichy Convent & Cemetery is another half-day Tsereteli Gallery. The Shilov destination – a welcome break from art-gallery-row. Gallery does the same on Evening is the time to wander the storied cobble- Wednesday evenings. stones of Arbat, the historic haunt of artists, musicians and street performers. It is undeniable that Arbat today has been taken over by souvenir stands and pavement Best Places cafes and it’s often packed with tourists; nonetheless, it 5 to Eat still evokes the free-thinking artistic spirit of yesteryear. Tiflis (p115) Sights in Arbat are limited to small museums and archi- tectural landmarks – easy to squeeze in here and there L e s A m i s d e Jean-Jacques (p 113 ) when exploring the neighbourhood. KHAMOVNIKI & ARBAT Moskvich (p 117 ) For reviews, see p 113 A Local Life Al fresco None of Moscow’s many summer terraces Best Places can beat the pedestrian bridge behind the Cathedral 6 to Drink of Christ the Saviour for fabulous Kremlin views. It’s also an economical choice: bring your own bottle of Gogol-Mogol (p 118 ) shampanskoe and pull up a bench. Zhiguli Beer Hall (p 117 ) Special events The Pushkin continues to attract For reviews, see p 117 A local art-lovers with its ambitious and unusual temporary shows. The museum also hosts the prestigious December Nights Festival (p21 ), which Best Art accompanies the artwork with musical performances. 1 Galleries Gallery of European & American Art of the 19th & Getting There & Away 20th Centuries (p 107 ) Arbat The light-blue Filyovskaya line and the dark- Rerikh Museum (p 111 ) blue Arbatsko-Pokrovskaya line run parallel across Pushkin Fine Arts Mu- the Arbat district. They both have stations called seum main building (p 107 ) Arbatskaya, with the entrance near Arbatskaya pl; and Multimedia Art Museum they both have stations called Smolenskaya, with the (p 112 ) entrance near Smolenskaya pl. None of these same- Burganov House (p 111 ) named stations are connected to each other, however, so make sure you know which line you are getting on. For reviews, see p 109 A Khamovniki The red Sokolnicheskaya metro line traverses Khamovniki district, from Kropotkinskaya station at pl Prechistenskie Vorota near the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour; to Park Kultury station along the Garden Ring; to Sportivnaya station in the southwestern corner, near Novodevichy and Luzhniki..