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Berkhamsted Town Council Town Berkhamsted Contact details Contact The buildings on the south have side of the High Street side-on. been shown Map showing location of blue plaques showing Map

 No. 1 The London and  No. 3 The Grand Junction Canal Birmingham Railway Now called the Grand Union Canal, it was opened through Berkhamsted in 1798. It soon became the main route for goods Berkhamsted is a lively between the The world’s fi rst inter-city railway was built through manufacturing towns of town set in a valley of the Berkhamsted in 1837. Its route closely follows the the West Midlands and London, and a principal transport artery Chiltern Hills, with a history Grand Union Canal through the town and across of the Industrial Revolution. the Chiltern Hills beyond. The engineer was The canal system of England was inspired by the 3rd Duke of going back beyond Saxon Robert Stephenson, son of George Bridgewater, the ‘Father of Inland Navigation’, who lived in nearby Stephenson, the pioneer of railways. The Ashridge. During the 20th century wide boats were built here times. Its claims to fame present station was built in 1875 when more and launched sideways into the canal. Berkhamsted is still a include strong royal, tracks were added, and the buildings have gateway to 2,000 miles of inland waterway. some fi ne polychrome brickwork. The canal climbs steeply through the town and there are six literary and teaching locks in Berkhamsted. connections.  No. 4 The Crystal Palace There are three canalside pubs in Berkhamsted, of which the Crystal This short walk, which starts and ends at Palace is one. Originally the railway station, takes you through the  No. 2 Berkhamsted Castle it had a glazed front, heart of the town. The Castle was built following the granting of inspired by Joseph Paxton’s the English crown to William the Conqueror Great Exhibition building of 1851. Paxton’s nephew by the Saxon chiefs here in Berkhamsted in William was Lord Brownlow’s agent and lived nearby. Although it cannot cover all places worth 1066. Its walls and buildings were fi rst made The pub’s gable has fi ne original carved bargeboards. visiting or describing, we hope it will provide of wood, but later rebuilt in the local materials of fl int and hard chalk.  No. 5 The Berkhamsted a fl avour of the town and spur you on to Nearly all the walls and buildings have Totem Pole explore more of Berkhamsted, its historic disappeared over the centuries, but the A genuine Canadian totem pole – a gift to John impressive earthworks – and the moats dug Alsford when he owned the timber yard that stood waterway and its surrounding countryside. by hand out of the fl inty soil – remain. on this site. It has four faces and the carving is full of All kinds of historic events have taken symbolism. place here. Famous people associated with Most of the buildings referred to have blue the Castle include Geoffrey Chaucer, who was  No. 6 The Boote plaques with numbers that correspond with those Clerk of Works, and Thomas Becket, the The Boote bears the date 1605 and is a typical oak Constable of the Castle in the 12th century. framed building of its time. It was one of at least six against the entries in this leafl et. Nos 1-32 It was the favourite home of the Black Prince, pubs which existed in Castle who honeymooned here with the Fair Maid of Kent. A visitor Street at one time. room is open during the summer months. Historically Castle Street was the second most For further information about The castle is open every day except important thoroughfare in the Berkhamsted please see back page. Christmas Day and New Year’s Day town. Before the railway came admission is free. it linked the High Street directly to the Castle.

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Heritage Leaflet - almost final.indd 3 final.indd almost - Leaflet Heritage 22/4/09 10:47:54 22/4/09

 No. 7 The Gardener’s  No. 16 Graham  No. 25 William Cowper’s School Arms Greene’s All along the High Street the original façades of the old houses One of a pair of mid-19th century Birthplace can be seen above the modern shop fronts. Here a single shop houses originally built as ale houses 200 metres up Chesham Road has been made from three houses, the middle one of which but fi rst used as shops. Henry Nash, is St. John’s, a boarding house of dates from the early 18th century – William Cowper went to a local historian and benefactor lived Berkhamsted School. The writer school here. here. Graham Greene was born here Nash had a strong interest in education and helped establish in 1904 when his father was  No. 26 The Town Hall Berkhamsted School for Girls as well as Berkhamsted Mechanics’ housemaster. Greene made many references to Berkhamsted in This building was designed in the Gothic style by the eccentric Institute, early meetings of which were held in this house. his writing. Victorian architect Edward Buckton Lamb. His initials and the Between Chapel Street and the High Street is an attractive date of the building are on row of old cottages, many of which are listed.  No. 17 The Swan the front. The Town Hall At the top of Castle Street is Berkhamsted’s long, straight A 16th century inn, one of three old coaching inns which stand housed the corn High Street. It was a Roman road – Akeman Street – and before side by side in the centre of the town, each with a way through market (the medieval that probably a Belgic track, so it has been used for at least 2,000 to a yard behind. The Swan is now ‘dry’ and provides a meeting market hall having been years. place and sheltered accommodation for young people. destroyed in a fi re), with a large assembly hall as well  No. 8 The Dower  No. 18 The King’s Arms as rooms for the Mechanics’ House For two centuries the King’s Arms Institute above. A listed house of the early 1800s was the principal inn of the town. with a lovely porch and doorcase, Coaches from London to Aylesbury  No. 27 The characteristic of the architectural and the north would stop here Market Square elegance of the pre-Victorian age. to change horses. The exiled King The ancient trading centre of the historic town of Berkhamsted expanded greatly in Louis XVIII of France, a frequent Berkhamsted was the 19th century. Between Manor Street and Ravens Lane is a caller, became especially fond of the the Market House. handsome terrace of Victorian cottages designed as an landlord’s daughter, Polly Page. It stood in the road architectural entity, with interesting James Snook, a highwayman, was an near this spot for brickwork details and terracotta ostler here. He was hanged for his some 250 years features on the roof all intact. crimes on Boxmoor in 1802 where s memorial stone can still be before being burnt The walk crosses the road and found. The arms on the sign are not in fact those of any king but down in 1854. returns on the other side. of Queen Anne.

 No. 9 The Poplars 173 High Street contains parts of what is thought to be  No. 28 ‘Grab-All Row’ One of a number of substantial 19th century middle-class houses the earliest known jettied urban building in the country. Its oldest The attractive row of shops along this part of the High Street along the High Street, only a timbers date from the 13th century. At fi rst thought to have was built in the old market square and acquired the name of few of which have remained as been a shop, it is now believed to be a three-bay cross wing to an Grab-All Row. The vine is ancient, dating from early in the 19th residences. It takes its name from aisled hall. century. At the time Berkhamsted had a fl ourishing trade in the tall Lombardy poplar trees, which cultivation of vines, and vine-growing in Berkhamsted was used to line this part of the High  No. 19 179 High Street mentioned in the Domesday Book. Street. The actor Sir Michael This building dates from the 1920s and Hordern was born here in 1911. includes fi ne Art Nouveau wood carving. An  No. 29 The Court House early and daring example of a shop with large In this Elizabethan  No. 10 The Goat plate glass windows. hall the town’s A 19th century pub on the site of an old thatched inn. Here corporation met drovers used to stay while their cattle were pounded in the three  No. 20 The Bridewell after Berkhamsted was ‘closes’ that gave their name to the lane by the side of the Rex. Berkhamsted’s Police Station has stood on granted its last charter this site since 1764. Originally known as the Bridewell, the fi rst in 1618. It has been  No. 11 The Rex Cinema building had a ‘dungeon with nine steps down: a most dreadful restored and is now Although built as recently as 1938, this cinema hole without air’. the parish hall, available is listed because of its fi ne period Art Deco for letting to the public. interior features by the architect David Nye.  No. 21 The Sayer It has been beautifully restored, with the foyer Almshouses  area now being an elegant restaurant and bar. John Sayer, King Charles II’s cook and a No. 30 St. Peter’s Church One of the largest churches in Hertfordshire, the parish church An Elizabethan mansion was demolished to prominent Berkhamsted of Berkhamsted dates from 1220. It has medieval features in make way for the cinema. James Barrie often citizen, had these almshouses built in the early English, decorated stayed there, and the Llewellyn Davies boys who 1684 for poor widows. They have and perpendicular styles, as lived in the house were the inspiration for Peter been used for the same purpose ever well as many monuments, Pan. since. Sayer’s grand tomb chest with brasses and stained glass Latin inscription can be seen in the Parish Church. windows. For over 600  No. 12 Childhood Home of The walk crosses the road and returns on the other side. Clementine Churchill years nearly everyone who  died in Berkhamsted was No. 22 The Monks House buried in St. Peter’s churchyard, so it contains thousands of A well-restored stylish (Café Rouge) terraced house from the graves. No one knows how old the great yew tree is on the An historic building dating from corner of Castle Street. early 19th century. the 16th century. Until some Clementine Hozier, 50 years ago the famous Lane’s  No. 31 Berkhamsted School later the wife of Sir Winston Nurseries extended along the Churchill, lived here. Founded in 1541 and much High Street on both sides of this extended in the 19th, 20th and building. Lane’s grew vines, which 21st centuries, the original building were exported – to France and is still in use. The old school hall, Germany! with its early Tudor brickwork and The world famous ‘Lane’s Prince Albert’ apple was produced  No. 13 Rectory Lane windows, faces the churchyard, from the original tree, which stood behind 250 High Street. and is unspoilt. William Cowper, the poet and writer of hymns In 1994, Berkhamsted School fi rst admitted girls, and it is now and letters, was born in 1731 in the Rectory co-educational. Many literary fi gures have been pupils at the which stood on the site of the present one,  No. 23 Early School, including Graham Greene, Claud Cockburn, Peter 150 metres up the lane. It became a place of Quennell and Richard Mabey. pilgrimage when Cowper’s popularity was at its Victorian height. Bakery Although Cowper moved from Berkhamsted when still a boy, An early Victorian baker’s shop,  No. 32 Berkhamsted his memories of the town remained warm and strong. There are with fi ne ornamental brickwork School Chapel many references to Berkhamsted in his poems and letters. and matching ironwork. This Victorian chapel has a fi ne interior, based on the Church of Santa Maria  No. 14 The Red House dei Miracoli in Venice, with the altar Another fi ne pre-Victorian house, with a  No. 24 The Bourne School (222 High raised dramatically at the top of a Venetian window and impressive porch Street – Britannia Building broad fl ight of steps. (The Chapel is not normally open to the public.) and doorway. Nearly all the houses facing Society) Graham Greene St. Peter’s Church are old, although some have In 1737 the fi rst school to be built in the town for nearly 200 new fronts. years was opened here – paid for by Thomas Bourne, a rich A prominent local citizen and benefactor, London merchant. The school was rebuilt in 1854 by General John Tawell, lived in the Red House. Later, in John Finch, another local benefactor. The three coats of arms on 1845, he was publicly hanged for murder. the front door are those of Berkhamsted Town, Thomas Bourne and John Finch.  No. 15 Dean Incent’s This was the fi rst building House occupied by Berkhamsted We hope you have This striking timber-framed house with School for Girls when it was enjoyed this short tour of projecting fi rst fl oor dates from 1500. founded in 1888. Clementine It was the home of John Incent, Dean Hozier, later Lady Churchill, Berkhamsted and that you will be of St. Paul’s Cathedral (1540-1545) was a pupil here. able to fi nd time to explore more and founder of Berkhamsted School. of the town and its surroundings.